Asti – A Relaxing Little Town

AstiKarte_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — A Map of Asti

Upon arrival and leaving the local train station a map of Asti, strategically located for those visiting the tiny city, greets all. It is actually quite informative and gives anyone a good overview of the local points of interest. However in order to have seen the map above one probably also missed the pedestrian tunnel to cross the busy intersection to town from the train station, we did!

Asti_PiazzaStatuto_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza Statuto

If you bear to the left after the traffic circle and upon entering the town one of the first sites and piazzas, like any other typical Italian town, is the Piazza Statuto. A quaint little piazza in what I would call a lazy and relaxing little town.

Asti_PiazzaSanSecundo_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza San Secondo – left view

Piazza San Secondo by contrast is a much larger piazza and is ringed with some shopping, if you are inclined to do any shopping while here. In the background popping up over the rooftops one can also see the top of the Torre Troyana.

Asti_PiazzaSanSecundo_2_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza San Secondo – right view

Of course the dominant building in this piazza is a catholic church for which the piazza is named after, the church San Secondo. A short walk down the small street directly across from the piazza takes you to the Torre Troyana.

Asti_TorreTroyana_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza Medici and the Troyan Clock Tower

The Piazza Medici Asti has the historical Torre Troyana o dell’Orologio. Originally started in the 12th century it was eventually bought by the Troya family and finished. Later the municipality of Asti purchased the tower and annexed it to the neighboring government building. As some point a clock was added, probably inside since I saw no evidence of one on the exterior of the building.

Asti_viaPellettaTowardsPiazzaSanSecundo_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — via Pelletta, looking toward the San Secondo church

If you are ever traveling in Italy and are tired of all the crowds of tourists, Asti should be one of your stops. Not that I like to encourage tourism, but if you are looking for a lazy day of strolling around unaffected by the hordes of international travelers this could be a good one day stop for you too. As can be seen by the photograph above the town’s side streets offer a relaxing substitute from some of the busier places around Italy.

Restaurant Le Teste di Rapa

Lunch in Asti offers many possibilities, from regional pizza and focaccia to enoteca and restaurant fusions offering great wines and food. After reading several menus on the street and walking around a bit, we decided on Le Teste di Rapa.

This restaurant offers no outside seating but is rather large inside and has both a downstairs and an upstairs. It also draws a very large local lunch crowd, so it is probably best to get there a bit early, between 12 to 12:30, especially if you have a train to catch or other time constraint. The locals seem to show up around one o’clock and for what we saw pack the place in pretty well.

Asti_BarberaDAsti_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Bertolino – a great Barbera d’Asti Superiore

The regional wines are the best to try and there is a wide selection. Though Asti is known for Asti Spumante, there are also other great varietals if you are not up for something bubbly. One of which are the Barberas. They go very well with rich food, in my case a dish of Italian meatballs and in Patti’s the daily special of eggplant parmesan. Both dishes were excellent and served with a fresh local white bread.

Asti_TesteDiRapa_Patti_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti outside the restaurant

The Palio di Asti

Once we left the restaurant we had another fifty minutes or so to spend and decided we had time to stroll over to see if there was anything interesting around Asti’s Palio (the less well-known cousin of the one in Siena.)

Asti_PiazzaCampoDelPalio_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten

The Palio here is of course a ringed street, that is it goes around in a complete loop, an essential requirement if you are having any kind of race. Though less well-known, Asti’s horse race also goes way back to the thirteen century. A main difference one can see between this venue and the one in Siena is the Asti version has a central piazza encircled by a walkway and a double row of trees. During most of the year this piazza apparently supports a small outside market. Nowhere as busy or large as the one in Turin, but offering the same kind of goods one expects to find at such a market with very reasonable prices as well.

Asti Train Station – Back to Turin

We finally made it back at the train station, taking the pedestrian tunnel this time, around twenty minutes to three.

AstiHauptBahnhof_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Asti train station and platforms

The trip between Asti and Turin P.N. (Porta Nuova) is just over thirty minutes with only one stop in between just outside of Turin. Otherwise the trip is totally second class at €5.25 one way per person, so do not expect to be able to purchase a first class ticket. But seats are comfortable and plentiful in both directions. The views outside the train are a bit better than traveling toward Milan and points East.

AstiToTurin_Returning_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Poppies and the bucolic Italian countryside

In any case a very relaxing and lazy day for an excursion to Asti and one destination worth the visit if you have the time, if only for the food and wine! ???? Ciao for now.

28 May, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Monte Dei Capuccini Overlook

Tired of waiting for the rain to come, Patti and I on Sunday decided to take a walk anyway, our umbrellas in tow just in case. Initially we thought we would just walk across the river Po again, in the opposite direction this time, to enjoy the Spring weather. It’s been raining here so often one has to get out when one can and enjoy it.

GriffinPatti_OnOurWayUp_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti starting our ascent to the Monte dei Capuccini

Our first thoughts were just a short walk to the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, across the Vittorio Emanuele bridge, stroll along the other bank for a bit and then cross again using the Umberto bridge below our street and back to our apartment. However, upon reaching the other side, we noticed the entrance to what we thought was a park at first just across the street from where we were walking. We quickly realized it was the entrance to the church that sat on top of the hill and decided a detour was in order.

MariaImmaculata_SupergaBackground_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Monument of Maria Immacolata

The climb is at first rather gradual but then steepens towards the end, especially the last few hundred meters. Before you reach the top there is the entrance to the museum and the hilltop bar where you can buy refreshments and enjoy the overlook. Finally, when you reach the top, the monument of the Maria Immacolata greets you. She faces Turin, which allows you to take a photograph of her with the Superga juxtaposed in the back.

Turin_OverlookFromChiesaDeiCapuccini_2_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Turin from Monte dei Capuccini, looking West-Southwest

The overlook once you get to the top is well worth the twenty minute climb.

Turin_OverlookFromChiesaDeiCapuccini_1_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Turin from Monte dei Capuccini, looking West-Northwest, with the prominent Mole to the right

From this vantage point you can see most of Turin and even our street and apartment.

Turin_OverlookWithText_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Our Turin

As you can see by the above photograph we are but a five minute walk from the beautiful Piazza Vittorio Veneto which is reminiscent of other more famous Italian piazzas with all of the typical restaurants, cafes and bars.

Turin_FromTheUmbertoBridge_skaliert_abgeschnitten — View from the Umberto bridge

We concluded our Sunday walk with crossing the Umberto bridge, which on any other day is very busy with traffic, since it feeds into very busy main street Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. For a Sunday a very uneventful, relaxing and serendipitous walk.

23 May, 201929 August, 2020

Turin – Sassi Tramway And Superga Basilica

Today, after contemplating the weather for tomorrow and whether or not it would be any better in the next few days, Patti and I decided to take a bus and the tramway to Basilica Superga. She astutely determined we had to take the 61 Bus from Vittorio Veneto over to Sassi. So around ten after eleven in the morning we made tracks for the local fermata.

TicketsForTwo_RackRailcar_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Two Tickets from Sassi-Superga to Basilica Superga

The Sassi-Superga Tramway

In Sassi we purchased tickets for the cogged railway (a.k.a. rack railroad or tramway) Superga Tramway to the Basilica Superga. The tramway runs every hour on the hour from Sassi to Superga and subsequently on the half-hour on return. Tickets are purchased at the base of the railway from a vending machine, and yes the machine has an english option and roundtrip tickets cost 6 euros.

CoggedTramway_RackRailcar_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Car D12 on the Sassi-Superga Rack railway

The ride is awesome and the gradient is pretty steep even though they use regular rail cars, unlike the ones that are built at an angle, like on funicular railcars we have been on.

GriffinPattiAndErick_Selfie_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — My attempt at taking a selfie together (not sure what they call that) and failing…

We enjoyed the ride up and the beautiful Spring weather, temperature in the mid 60’s and the cool mountain air, yummm.

GriffinErick_ILikeRetirement_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick enjoying his Campari Spritz after that difficult tramway ride

After disembarking the tramway it was time for a quick break right at the station. A quick salami and cheese panini and Campari Spritz to get re-energized. After the customary 15 minute wait after ordering at the bar we were able to eat. One has to remind oneself to slow down when traveling in Italy, time is not a constant on all parts of the Earth.

Basilica Superga

The basilica it situated on top of the Superga hill which is some 2200 feet above the city and therefore makes it a very prominent point of interest when looking to the north from the city.

Basilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — The Basilica’s Cupola as seen from the tramway and the start of our small hike to the Basilica

After a short ten minute walk up a fairly steep hill you climb a short set of stairs and then see the Basilica all of a sudden. On a fairly clear day its structure makes it stick out of the sky.

Basilica_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Basilica Superga

Unfortunately, this May the Basilica was closed for renovations, so we were not able to see the actual interior. Even without a close inspection of the structure one can easily see that no one can argue with this, since there are clearly cracks and other obvious things that need repair. That required us to contribute somehow, so we decided we must visit the cupola since it was still open, regardless of cost.

TicketsForTwo_Basilica_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Two tickets to the Basilica Superga’s Cupola, no baggage!

After the purchase of our tickets, we had to climb the 131 steps to the cupola and see the oversight of Turin.

GriffinErick_Basilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick climbing the first 100 steps, the final 30 would prove to have much less room

The oversight is pretty breathtaking, unfortunately in between rainy days, we were only able to get a semi-clear view of the mountains surrounding Turin.

OverlookFromBasilica_1_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking West Northwest from the Basilica over North Turin

The River Po can be seen above at the foot of the photograph. This is the river that cuts through Turin and has its origins in the Italian Alps.

OverlookFromBasilica_5_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking West Southwest from the Basilica over Turin; one can see the Mole to the right of the River Po on the left

One can actually get an almost 360 degree view of the surrounding area from the Basilica’s vantage point.

OverlookFromBasilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking to the East Northeast over the Basilica’s Palazzo

And finally a bit to the South.

OverlookFromBasilica_3_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking to the East Southeast over the roof of the Basilica

The rooftop fully surveyed we also enjoyed our cramped but slow descent down the staircase to our exit.

GriffinPatti_Basilica_1_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti on her way down

After our little climb we were still a bit hungry, the panini having been made with a tortilla and not the traditional focaccia left our stomachs a bit wanting; we therefore decided to visit the Artis Opera at Superga Basilica and eat something else.

GriffinPatti_Restaurant_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti at the restaurant, a very small room but comfortable

Though the room we had lunch in was very small with four tables in all; there were of course other rooms. It was very comfortable and the waiter was very attentive. I had a Insalata Mista and Patti had the Risotto Piemontese.

GriffinErick_ILikeRetirement_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick – the railroad is in our blood. Damn can’t escape it!

Our return trip and ride down was just as enjoyable as the ride up. Springtime in Piemonte I must say is just GREAT!

17 May, 201923 August, 2020

Milan – Tristan’s Last Vacation Stop

With Tristan departing for the States again on May 18th we all decided a short visit to Milan was in order.

After leaving Turin midday we arrived and checked in at the Just Hotel in Milan, very close to the train station so it would be easy on Saturday to get to the airport at Malpensa.

The Duomo

Early today we awoke, had a quick breakfast and headed to the Duomo.

The Rooftop

Patti purchased tickets for us to see all that can been seen at the Duomo, including an elevator express trip to the roof.

Though there was construction, even here there was plenty to see. It is amazing how much detail and sculpture the architects, builders and clergy put into parts of this dome that would not normally be seen by anyone.

Some forgotten cardinal or bishop hoisted by cherubs before a rarely used rooftop doorway

The architecture here, dictated by the physics of the day, is indeed impressive.

A forest of buttresses, piers and finials supporting Duomo’s massive inside

And another perspective.

The roof of the Duomo is for sure decorative. Probably in an attempt to add some counterweight to the expansive and beautiful interior.

The Duomo’s Interior

Duomo’s huge nave, looking toward the choir and apse

The windows are traditional, depicting scenes from the Bible as a pedagical device for those who could neither read nor write.

The amazing stained glass windows in Duomo’s apse

And…

The amazing stained glass windows in Duomo’s apse from a distance

Duomo’s Archeological Museum

There is also an archeological museum below the dome. It is an on-going dig, after supporting the massive cathedral above using modern technology, which can be seen in some of the photographs.

There were some impressive mosaic tile floors uncover from former churches that stood here once.

There are also the obligatory tombs of former bishops, priests or rich benefactors littering the grounds.

Milan surrounding the Duomo

There are a few things to experience and see around the Duomo, including the old, simple yet very functional street cars or trams. I never get tired of their usefulness and simplicity as a convenience; sad there are not more of them in the States as they bring life to a city.

Of course there are always the overly expensive and necessary stores to see in the Galleria; the original glass enclosed mall.

Having exhausted ourselves and in need of some refreshment, Tristan recommended visiting Starbuck’s very large roastery.

And finally a departing shot of the Milanese Underground and back to our hotel for a rest before dinner.

17 May, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Application Day for Erick’s Permesso

The Questura di Torino, is let’s say not the most inviting place, for it would remind one, for those old enough to remember, of their local DMV (Department of Motor Vehicles) back in the 1960’s. Having been here only once to obtain an appointment, which by the way took two hours, I re-entered with some trepidation.

This week, on May 15th, we returned for my Permesso di Soggiorno (permission of stay.) After reading all the print-outs that were taped on all the walls, my wife and I decided to take a more direct approach and just go inside, behind the green barred protected area, and stand in line, directly in front of BLUE window number 1, as indicated on my appointment sheet.

WRONG!

Within five minutes we were yelled at and sent back, along with almost everyone else loitering there, out to the waiting area. It turned out, the scoreboard there read out one’s number along with the applicable window to go to when called, nonetheless I remained confident.

My calm, cool exterior – They don’t scare me, his show was for the other illegal immigrants, not me

As my appointment time drew closer, I started to get more anxious as to whether or not we actually understood what they actually told us. Do I have all the correct documents?

Hmm, what if they find something irregular, I could be arrested, nah.., they would never do that. I’m American

Finally, three minutes after three o’clock in the afternoon, with them just returning from lunch ????? , my number was called.

That’s my number, window six, I will probably be alone tonight in a four foot concrete cell eating croissants and drinking water

Actually after the lady remonstrated a couple for being in front of us, since their number was NOT called, we reluctantly approached the window. We didn’t have everything she wanted, but she spoke English very well and we were able to explain or provide proof to all her questions and satisfaction. After my finger printing we left with my temporary permesso and it all took less than an hour..! In Italy no less, go figure.

13 May, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Mother’s Day at Valentino Park

A belated append for Mother’s Day, spent at Valentino Park. Patti and I decided yesterday on taking a nice leisurely stroll down to the medieval village, approximately a mile walk from our apartment.

The park itself is pretty expansive. It contains many paved paths with some roads going through it. Several boating club houses dot the river bank. The river Po borders it along its eastern side where on this day it was hosting a boating race regatta.

Medieval Village

The village was built in the 19th century as an authentic reproduction of an actual medieval village prior to its demise.

There are of course several shops and demonstration stations. There are some light tourist things for sale, including the ever popular Harry Potter paraphernalia, wands and such.

The buildings are characteristically very close together and include the customary trenches for waste water, which were thoughtfully dry.

The colonnades have the traditional colors of the builders and there are several paintings or remarks in the stones.

There is even an old printing press with demonstrations strategically placed behind a sample of the wall mosaics of that time. The only thing missing here are medieval people, their animals and probably all the smells that go along with them. ?

We ended our Mother’s Day walk by visiting the arboretum or Giardino Roccioso.

3 May, 201923 August, 2020

Offenbach – A Diamond In The Rough

Venture far from Sachsenhausen or Süd-Frankfurt, or a short stop on your way to Hanau (for whatever reason that may be), you will find the small city of Offenbach. One can say it’s one of those towns or cities that most resembles the new Germany, pluralistic, cosmopolitan and apparently an up-and-coming place. Our daughter lives here and has re-acclimated herself to the bigger city life, than she was used to when she lived in Kassel.

Marktplatz

Though we have no photographs, mostly due to a certain ambivalence on my part, one can say this is where the action is. It has many modern stores, a main pedestrian zone for shopping and several trendy, economical and interesting places to eat. There is a U-Bahn stop here, which can be easily reached from Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof or main train station.

Other Areas

Around Offenbach’s Marktplatz, are many different areas for business and residential with the train station for the city slicing right through it. Though we use the Offenbacher Hauptbahnhof regularly, we have never considered looking for a place to eat near it. We were surprised to find a culinary gem not too far away!

ShauMAHL Restaurant

On a chilly, rainy evening with reservations for the Frankfurter Botschaft, we started our restaurant adventure on the Offenbacher Hauptbahnhof platform waiting for a DB train that would never arrive (perhaps another DB störung, they are famous for them as one of our previous blog articles describes; more on this in a later blog entry.)

Dismayed, we quickly canceled our current reservation and began a search for something comparable in the immediate area. We found ShauMAHL.

One would say a rather expensive restaurant. However, as the saying goes (and we are technically on vacation, even though retired ?), “in for a penny, in for a pound!”

Tristan and Ericka before enjoying their meal

They offer a fixed-priced menu which provides a very round selection, from fish, fowl to meat.

I selected the rabbit dish with green sauce which was excellent. Rabbit, rabbit meatballs, barley, ummmm, good.

For drink, I selected a nice regionally (Württemberg) produced red, Graf von Neipperg, merlot, 2015 (€79), very nice (I think I used the word ‘okay’ while trying it, much to the dismay of the waitress.) It has all the qualities of being a really good wine. But lest I go into wine snobbery, my bar (bar as in a high-jump bar, a bar to get over) is a 1986 or 1989 Chateau Lynch Bages, need I say more?

For dessert we chose whatever we were more inclined to eat, Erick the Apfelstrüdel, Patti and Ericka the ice cream and Tristan a coffee. Erick and Ericka still ordered an expresso with Sambuca straight-up.

For a rainy evening, an expensive (€410), though extraordinary find for a dismissed place like Offenbach.

4.8 Stars ??