In keeping with our travel recommendation about train travel, as opposed to taking a plane, we took the ÖOB Railjet train from Vienna in Austria to Prague in the Czech Republic. We just feel it is a quicker solution for short to medium destinations, when you take into account all the nonsense and preparation you must do to travel by air, which usually takes anywhere from two hours on each end. It just isn’t worth the effort to us for a one hour flight, when if you could use the time to enjoy the countryside or read a good book.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
On To Prague
Our next destination was Prague, where we are to meet my daughter and son-in-law. We left our hotel and using a taxi reached the main station in Vienna in about fifteen minutes. The main train station in Vienna is a very modern facility and connected to the U1 metro and the D Line of the Tram network, so there are multiple ways to reach it.
The Bucolic Czech Countryside
Of course, the Austrian and Czech Republic countrysides in this area of Europe are very similar, being mostly agricultural, with some natural reserved areas and wooded areas.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
Austrian ÖOB Railjet Train – First Class
Austrian Countryside
Arriving in Breclav – Our First Stop
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Arriving in Brno
Czech Republic – Arriving in Brno
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Here are also a few videos I shot while enjoying the ride.
Some Recommendations
Upon reaching Prague, we decided to walk with our luggage to the Imperial Hotel, which is about fifteen minutes from the station. Though it can be done, and we actually did it, I cannot say I advise doing it. The Czech streets, in this area and most walkways in the older part of the city, are paved using a special highly contoured version of Sanpietrini, which is actually very difficult to pull your luggage on. It probably also raises hell with wheels on your luggage. So, a word of caution, what you see on the walkway immediately leaving the train station will last until you reach your hotel. That would be the time to seriously contemplate going back and getting into a taxi. Happy travels!
Below the cacophony of Vienna’s innere Stadt, the Resselpark, Karlskirche and the Kärtner Ring is a rather large conglomeration of museums, gardens and fountains is the Belvedere Palace.
Belvedere Palace and Gardens
Belvedere
The palace and its gardens are divided in two, known as the Oberen (Upper) and Unteren (Lower) Belvedere. Between them one can find the exceptional gardens of the palace called the Belvedere Gardens. To the right of this are also the Botanical Gardens, which we did not have time to visit.
Belvedere Gate Entrance
Belvedere Gardens – Upper and Lower Belvedere Museums – Tickets For Two
Upper Belvedere
This museum holds the primary collection of the Belvedere, including many famous artists, Austria’s own Klimt and others like Monet, Rodin and Schiele. Words cannot describe what a slow walk and intense focus on these works feels like unless you visit these works in person. Second best is a slide show on those pieces that I found the most moving and interesting of the collection, enjoy.
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Stairway
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway – Medusa Gorgon
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway – Stheno and Euryale Gorgons
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall – Panorama (distorted)
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Donner – Venus in the Forge of Vulcan
Upper Belvedere Museum – Platzer – Rebecca at the Well
Upper Belvedere Museum – Brandt – Castle Ruin and Horse Cart
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schinnagl – Morgen
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schinnagl – Abend
Upper Belvedere Museum – Portrait Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Other works
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schaller – Adolescent Cupid
Upper Belvedere Museum – Other Marble Works
Upper Belvedere Museum – Rodin – Bust of Gustav Mahler
Upper Belvedere Museum – Monet – Path in Garden of Giverny
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt – Flowering Poppies
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt – Schloßkammer in der Attersee
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schloßkapelle – Castle Chapel
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schiele – Die Umarmung – The Embrace
Upper Belvedere Museum – Kolig
Upper Belvedere Museum – Ethofer – Café Tomaselli in Salzburg
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schindler – Saw Mill in Morning Mist
Upper Belvedere Museum – Charlemont – Inside a Hammer Mill
Upper Belvedere Museum – Thoren – Cow attacked by Wolves
Belvedere Gardens
A marvelous September day, a breeze with some chill and a beautiful garden go hand in hand, especially when you can share it with someone; in this case, my wife.
Belvedere Gardens
Belvedere Gardens – View of Lower Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens – Upper Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens and Reflecting Pond
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Step Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Belvedere Gardens – View of Vienna
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Patti in the Gardens
We had a great time just slowly walking through the gardens and listening to the fountains, enjoying the landscape[1]Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023. and the stillness that you do not get in other parts of this very busy city.
Lower Belvedere
This part of the museum contains more off-beat art works. Mostly contemporary artists and works, the Joseph Rebell collection, which goes back to the early 1800s, is extremely good and important. His landscapes of Naples, Vesuvius and other parts of the Mediterranean. Again, it is best to view these works in the context of a slide show.
Lower Belvedere Museum
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Bielik – Tree with Lights
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Wisinger-Florian – Prater Alle im Herbst
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Bielik – Burning Tree
Lower Belvedere Museum – Fischer – Heart of Reality
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits of Joseph Rebel
Lower Belvedere Museum – Old Horse Stables
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
That concludes our visit to Vienna. We found it a fast paced interesting place to visit that eagerly welcomes tourists. Extremely cosmopolitan where it is easier to find an Italian restaurant than a traditional Viennese one, but such is the price of progress and tourism. For that, one might have to venture further, perhaps to Graz, or even Güssing in Burgenland.
In Vienna, as with many older cities in Europe, there are interesting things to see not only above ground, but below as well. Today was a rainy day and we had to deal with as best we could, that could have meant museums, but everyone else had that idea. In attempt to continue to avoid crowded place, whenever possible, we decided on the offbeat.
Vienna – Vermählungsbrunnen
Schweizertor – The Swiss Gate
The swiss gate is the oldest gate or door and part of the Hofburg, dating back to the 1300s. It is part of the original square castle that included four turrets on each corner. It’s not much to see, but is a remarkable color red.
Vienna – Schweizertur – Swiss Gate
Die Ankeruhr
The Anker Clock is located on Hoher Markt, next to the Judengasse.
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr – Legend
It chimes and performs a small show every noon time, otherwise all you will witness is an hourly chime, as follows.
Kapuzinergruft – Kaisergruft – Habsburg Tomb
If you are at all interested in the Habsburgs, and perhaps where they might be buried, look no further than the Kapuzinergruft. Also called the Kaisergruft or Habsburg Tomb, it is located on Neuer Markt and next to the Kapuziner Kloster.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Kaiser Gruft or Crypt – Tickets For Two
The gruft contains many of the families of the Habsburgs and Habsburg-Lothringen and includes a genealogy of the members who rest in this place. Some of the coffins also have amazing details, most of which have to do with wars[1]I sometime wonder when we are going to get over or need for that exercise in futility.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Habsburg Genealogy
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Restaurants
Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Lounge
If you stay at the Grand Hotel Wien, you should look into any combination package that offers breakfast. Unless you are an extremely light eater in the morning, you will not do much better outside. They have a hot and cold menu (buffet), and the portion size is well managed, so you won’t have to worry about walking around with a lot of extra weight.
Vienna – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast
Café Central
One of the oldest cafes in Vienna, the Café Central is located in the old Palais Ferstel building on the corner of Herren- and Strauchgasse. Famous personages like Freud and Trotsky have visited this establishment, though today the conversations today, one could say, are less political or analytical.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Building and entrance
We made reservations for lunch and commend anyone do that same. The line waiting to get in can be long and when it rains out, as it did today, you do not want to find yourself getting wet before sitting down after a twenty or so minute wait.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Show case at entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Looking toward entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Patti enjoying lunch
Vienna – Cafe Central – Main Room
The food is good and traditional. I can commend a good red wine from Burgenland called Blaufränkish, which is served by the glass for around 5.50€. It is an excellent accompaniment for Wüstchens and Gulash soup. It is very busy, so service can be intermittent at times, so be patient.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Würstchen platter and Maygar Gulash
Vienna – Cafe Central – Apfelstrüdel – a local and personal favorite
Anyone visiting Vienna has to have museums on the top of their list of things-to-do. This city is home to many extraordinary examples of very good museums, some even housed in former palaces. The Albertina is just such an example and a must see when visiting Vienna, their collection of fine art is, shall we say, first rate.
Vienna – The Natural History Museum – Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
Some Museums of Vienna
In fact, there are so many museums in Vienna, it is perhaps difficult to list them all. Below are a few that we visited and thoroughly enjoyed, along with a few photographs, just to remember the important works of art that are there.
The Hofburg
A complex of museums and a library, which we found out only allows users who are doing research or have special permission. Though we did not see any museums here, it does include a World Museum and a Papyrus Museum.
Vienna – The Hofburg Gate
Vienna – The Hofburg – 1821 built in memory of the Battle of Leipzig
Vienna – The Hofburg
Vienna – The Hofburg
Vienna – The Hofburg – Prince Eugene Statue
Vienna – The Hofburg – Erzherzog Karl – Equestrian Statue
Maria-Theresien-Platz
Sitting across from one another, on the Maria-Theresien Platz, are the Art History and Natural History museums. This impressive public square was built with the public in mind, where they could come and enjoy the museums and stroll the grounds afterwards. The square is joined on the one end by the Museumquartier and on the other by the Burgring (Ringstraße), across which lies the Hofburg.
Vienna – The Natural History Museum
Vienna – The Art History Museum
Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Tickets for Two
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Main Stairway – Works by Klimt and others
Across the Burgring from the Hofburg is the Art History Museum of Vienna, or the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien. It houses unique art pieces collected by the Habsburgs during their reign.
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ceiling
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Jewelry Collection
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – A Griffin
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Roman and Greek bronzes and vases
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Bust
The Albertina
Formerly a palace, the Albertina was rebuilt after the Second World War and refurbished at the turn of the millennium. It contains collections of works by Monet, Picasso, Dürer and Da Vinci to name a few, my favorites are the works by Klee and Chagall. Here is a slideshow of some of those works.
Batliner Collection
A famous collection of paintings featuring Monet and Picasso, the Batliner Collection was endowed to the Albertina by Herbert Batliner’s estate. It contains many important collections by modernist artists, including Chagall, Ernst and Klee. Here is a slideshow of what this collection has to offer.
The building also has a collection of state rooms that were used by the archdukes and archduchesses of the Habsburgs. It consists of about twenty rooms of varying styles and designs.
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Restaurants
La Scala Trattoria
Yes we know, Italian food in Austria? Yes and yes! It is amazing how many Italian restaurants and trattoria there are here, including chains like Vapiano’s, if you need a quick bite for lunch.
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
This was a great pick for lunch, the hosts are very attentive and the food is speedily and well prepared. Though I would say that cuisine that is offered has an almost Rome feel to it, either due to the owners origin or as a response to tourist’s expectations. All in all, you couldn’t any better in Vienna than selecting this place to eat Italian food.
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala – Spaghetti al Pomodoro e Basilico
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala – Spaghette Aglio Olio
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer
This is an old Viennese restaurant, formerly owned by Sacher[1]The same person one who made the Sacher Torte famous, which was named after the exploits of a chimney sweep who had a torrid love affair with a young woman baker who used to work in the building. After some time of coming out each morning covered in baking flour the locals would jokingly call the place of the White Chimney Sweep.
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
The food is traditional for this area and very well prepared, the pea soup was marvelous. The Wiener Schnitzel was above average with the breading being very tasty, crusty and separated from the veal, making for a delicious entree. As such, expect to pay above average prices.
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer – Pea Soup
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer – Wiener Schnitzel
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
Be aware, though we were seated immediately at fifteen after six in the evening, management of getting a table appeared a bit capricious to us. They seem to turn some parties away while accepting others of the same size without reservations. My wife and I were puzzled, so reservations are easy enough to make and probably a good idea.
Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse – City Building
Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse und Seilerstätte
Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse und Seilerstätte
Stubentor And City Wall
Along our walk we happened upon a monument for the old city wall and the Stuben Tower, which was part of it at one time.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
The Danube
After a considerable two to three mile walk, and a cafe stop for coffee, we enjoyed a walk to this famous river, as well as a short walk along its banks.
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance – River Cruises
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – More brown than blue
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – More brown than blue
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Reichesbrücke
The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Not far from the Danube and in the Stuwerviertal, close to Mexicoplatz is the church of Saint Francis of Assisi.
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Almost directly in the center of the old city is Saint Stephan’s Cathedral. We were fortunate enough to be at the cathedral on a Sunday to hear them play the marvelous bells.
The cathedral is impressive, both inside and out, almost reminiscent of the Kolner Dom.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Entrance
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Roof
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Inside
Our flight from Milan to Vienna was rather quick and thankfully uneventful. Though I will admit, if Vienna was within a six (6) hour train ride, I would still rather take a train.
Austria – Flight from Milan – Mountain Snows
Austria – Flight from Milan – Vienna from the air
Additionally, I would say, Austrian Airlines would not be my favorite airline to take. It is better than Spirit and RyanAir, but worse than Delta and other larger carriers. It’s meant to be cheap and it feels it. We only took it out of convenience.
Grand Hotel Wien
When choosing a hotel we were looking for something with Wiener charm and found it the Grand Hotel. The rooms are grand, comfortable and the hotel staff and service are great.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien
The outside is rather unassuming, but the inside and its rooms have that old age charm. It contains a cafe and three restaurants and will meet most peoples needs for their short stay in this very cosmopolitan city.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Foyer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Hall
A Quick Look At Vienna
Our first day or so was spent getting a quick look at the city. Our first impressions are it is a rather clean city for its size, but not as clean as Ljubljana, Slovenian. It has an extensive and very useful commuter infrastructure, including rail, tram, cycling and pedestrian ways all clearly marked and very easy to use. The WienMobile mobile application is also very useful and easy to set up.
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Mall
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Wiental Canal
Vienna – Innen Stadt East
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Stubenring
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Stubenring
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Stubenring
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse – Trinity Column
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse – Trinity Column
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kohlmarkt Strasse
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Sisi Museum
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Cafe Central
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Austrian Stock Market
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Typical City Street
Vienna – Typical Architecture
Restaurants
Wiener Küche
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche
A small Viennese restaurant on Bräunerstraße, Wiener Küche serves traditional Austrian and Wiener cuisine. Needing our first sample of local food, we stopped here for our early afternoon meal. We both chose the Beef Gulash with Parsley Potatoes.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche – Patti freezing
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche – Beef Gulash with Parsley Potatoes and Merlot
Taking the Pila Cable Car from Aosta one can have a marvelous day trip above the clouds. At over six thousands feet in elevation, Pila sits over Aosta and the valley like an eagle’s nest.
Pila – Pila Cable Car – Tickets For Two
For a modest round trip fee of 7€/person, you can take the 15-20 minute ride on the cable car and enjoy a ride up the mountainside and the Aosta Valley. The cable car takes you over the small towns on the other side of the Dora Bàltea river from Aosta, where you can see the bucolic farms and vineyards from above.
Our Cable Car Ride And Day In Pila
Since there really isn’t much else to tell, a few short series of photographs is all that it takes to enjoy this wonderful day adventure, enjoy!
The Way Up
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Station
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Ride Up
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Ride Up
Pila – Pila Ski Resort and Views
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car Going Up
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car Going Up
The Ski Resort
Pila Ski Resort – Bike Center
Pila Ski Resort – Dirt Trail
Pila Ski Resort – Fog Clouds rolling in
Pila Ski Resort – Resort and Clouds
Pila Ski Resort – An Old Stump
Pila Ski Resort – Clouds
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car and Aosta Valley below
After a long day of bus rides and cable cars, it was time for some hiking. Nothing hard for our age, but moderate enough, just to get the legs to ache and the bones to complain a little.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama from other end
Having purchased a subscription to AllTrails, we had time before we left Turin to plan several hikes, of varying difficulty. Since the weather was so nice, we went for a scenic hike and chose Gargantua Hill.[1]Though technically any heap of rock and dirt may be called a hill, this is actually a glacial moraine, deposited thousands of years ago when the glaciers from the last Ice Age left this valley.
Map – Our Route
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve – Hike Map 2D
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve – Hike Map 3D
The hike was rather simple, leave our hotel, use the tunnel to go under the rail station, walk across the Pont Suaz bridge and walk the neighborhoods until we reached the hill, then ascend it.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Dora Bàltea river
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Dora Bàltea river
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Town of Charvensod
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Crossing the Pila Cable Car
We brought plenty of water, and were happy that we did, because it was pretty warm, perhaps in the middle 80s (about 28/29C). I also wore a hat part of the way, which helped to shade the sun beating down on me, so one can say – wearing a hat is good advise.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Town or Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Local Vineyard
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Apple Orchards in Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Apple Orchards in Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta in the distance
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta in the distance – Closeup
Gargantua Nature Preserve
The hill is part of the Riserva Naturale de Gargantua, or Gargantua Nature Preserver, and is some 150m, or 450 feet, in elevation. It has several trails on either side, most of which can be used to ascend and descend it. The one we chose was from the vineyard side to the east, with an approach from where it joins with the mountain. This was slightly easier than a direct approach, since it afforded us the use of the farming roads a third of the way up.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Trail on Gargantua
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti on the Gargantua Trail
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Tall Peaks
The hill is mostly porous dirt, rocks and stones, therefore it does not hold water very well and was severely dry due to this year’s climatic conditions in Italy. The dirt was very loose and without proper foot gear, one could easily slip in it.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama on top of hill – 150m (450ft) above valley
The summit provides impressive views of the entire Aosta Valley, with an excellent view of Aosta to the east.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Valle d’Aosta to the east
There are also several monuments and other artifacts on the top, including a score of music, a cross and some signs (which I did not translate).
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Il Silenzio della Fate – Score Sheet
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Il Silenzio della Fate – Marker
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – The Cross
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Valle d’Aosta to the east
The hike down was a bit more interesting than the ascent, since it was from the end of the hill that sticks out into the valley. Therefore, it was a bit steeper and more treacherous. There were several places that we had to be careful, but luckily there were always enough rocks on which we could purchase a grip.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – The Cross
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti made it!
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti on the way down
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Gardens
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Gardens
That does it for our day hike in Aosta. In all, it totaled about 7.5 miles and some 450ft in ascent and descent, and about three and a half hours to hike. We went straight to a restaurant, since we had been out since 9:30AM and did not want the restaurants closing while we were dropping our things off at the hotel. All in all, a very gratifying September day of hiking in Aosta. Go Hike!
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama with mountains
Though technically any heap of rock and dirt may be called a hill, this is actually a glacial moraine, deposited thousands of years ago when the glaciers from the last Ice Age left this valley.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Erick at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Some 33km from Aosta, or about one hour by bus, is the small ski hamlet of Courmayeur and the starting point of our day journey to Pont Helbronner (Helbronner Point) and Monte Bianco, or Mont Blanc.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Tickets For Two
Courmayeur
A quaint little ski hamlet that offers a traditional Italian, Swiss and French Alpine feel. The town is built to withstand the snows that most likely visit this region every winter season. Luckily, we visited when the weather was a bit more mild and pleasant.
Courmayeur – The Town’s Climbing Society
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – Diorama of an old structure in town
Courmayeur – The Mountains and Moghu Pines
Courmayeur – The Mountains and Moghu Pines
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – A Town in the High Alps
Courmayeur – A Sundial in Town
Courmayeur – The Town and Mountains
Or primary reason for being here was taking the Skyway Monte Bianco and visiting the mountain across from Mont Blanc, in order to get some good photographs of it and the valley of glaciers that it creates.
Helbronner and Mont Blanc
Once you board the cable car you ascend rapidly to the intermediate stop of where the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Gardens are, where you can stretch you legs and your soul.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Cable Car Entrance
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Cable Car Entrance
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mountain Face of Aiguilles Marbrées
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mountain Face of Aiguilles Marbrées
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – The Aosta Valley Floor
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Cloud Shrowded Mont Blanc
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
There are many things you can do here besides enjoy the cafe or bar. There are hiking trails all over the mountain, and within a few minutes you can be totally alone, hiking a few minutes up any of the trails. If not to discover, perchance to enjoy a different view of the mountain side, which in these parts, is steep enough to tax anyone’s endurance.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Veni Valley from the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Aosta Valley the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Mountain Goat at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Aosta from the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stella at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Fake Ibex at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Edelweiß at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Halfway Point
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Pont Helbronner
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont and Glacier du Géant
A singular place to visit to enjoy the almost lunar landscape of this Alpine geography. Aside from occasional dyspepsia and dizziness that this altitude might cause, the visitor is welcomed to an almost surreal landscape once exiting the cable car and ascending the stairs to the observation deck.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Legend
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Glacier du Géant and Dente del Gigante
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Patti and view of Mont Blanc in clouds and Mont Maudit
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont Blanc in Clouds and
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont and Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Dente del Gigante
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – First View du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Restaurants
Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria
A normal pizzeria and brasserie by any Italian standards, as a stop for lunch it fit the bill nicely. We enjoyed a quick lunch of pasta, salad, water, wine and coffee with very pleasant service as an added bonus. There is nothing to complain about here, the staff is well versed in taking orders and serving food quite promptly.
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria – Erick’s Tagliatelle in Ragu and Insalate Mista
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria –
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria – Patti’s Tagliatelle with Porchini mushrooms
Located about two hours north of Turin by train and down a very large valley, is the small city of Aosta (pronounced: Ahh’osta). It is a cute little city of about thirty-five thousands inhabitants and a former ancient Roman military outpost.
Aosta – From Gargantua
We had planned a short trip for Aosta some time ago, hoping to go there during the hot summer month of July, but we were busy. So, we adjusted our plans to September and glad we did. The valley can be as hot as the Po Valley in summer and can also have wild swings in weather. So, along with the fact that we had additional plans for Mont Blanc, we prepared both ways, and perhaps in the end packed a bit too heavily.
The Valley
It is located in the Aosta Valley of the same name and is the capital of one of the autonomous regions in Italy. It can be found at the confluence of the rivers Dora Baltea, which starts at the foot of Mont Blanc, and the Buthier, which starts at the foot of the Grandes Murailles glacier and the Valpelline valley.
Aosta – Looking Southeast from Omama hotel
Aosta – Looking South and Mount Garin
Aosta – The Buthier river
Aosta – The Buthier river
The City
The city is an ancient Roman enclave and military output, that was supported by the Roman Empire and an important Roman presences in the first century, guarding the northern pass from barbarians. Augustus Caesar is displayed throughout the city in many bronzes and other forms of statue.
Aosta – Tickets For Two – Archeological Sites Aosta
If you are going to do any meaningful investigation of this city, you must enjoy its many archeological sites. In order to do so, a visit to the information center is needed, its by the Praetorian Gate (or triple bridge), and for a modest 8€/person, you can purchase tickets to all of the important venues in town.
Aosta – Looking Southeast from Omama hotel
Aosta – Looking South and Mount Garin
Aosta – via Torino
Aosta – Early Morning View from Hotel Room
Aosta – Piazza Émile Chanoux
Aosta – Aosta Cathedral
Aosta – Early Morning View from Hotel Room
Aosta – Main Train Station
Aosta – Piazza Emile Chanoux
Aosta – Water Wheel
Aosta – Ancient House
Aosta – Orchard in front of the Roman Theater
Aosta – Bell Tower of the Church of Sant Orso
Aosta – Giardini Pubblici Emilio Lussu
Roman Arch Of Augustus
The enormous Arch of Augustus was built in 25 BCE to commemorate Augustus Caesar’s victory over the Salassis.
Aosta – Roman Gate of Augustus Ceasar
Aosta – Roman Gate of Augustus Ceasar
Located by the Pietra di Aosta bridge, which goes over the Buthier river, it is a large arch that contains a cross inside.
The Roman Theater
Another important site is the Roman Theater. Apparently in the early 1900s there were several structures built against the entrance, using it as one wall in their buildings. When the government decided that it was an important archeological site, these buildings were raised to prepare the site for excavations.
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater
Aosta – Roman Theater – Section of Theater
The Roman Wall and Towers
The city is encircled by a Roman Wall and several towers, four of which mark each corner of the rectangle that is made by the walls.
Aosta – Bell Tower and front of the Church of Sant Orso
Romanesque Cloister of Sant-Orso
A fine example of Romanesque art and cloister architecture the Cloister of Saint Orso.
Aosta – Arches and Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Almost every column lining the portico inside the cloister has a unique sculpted capital, depicting strange images of times forgotten. Some of the columns have multiple pillars abutting their capitals, making them even stranger and perhaps more difficult to understand by researchers.
Aosta – Fresco inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Arches and Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Arches and Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Interesting Double-Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals – Cloister of Sant Orso
Aosta – Unique Column Capitals Legend – Cloister of Sant Orso
Paleo-Christian Church Of Sant Lorenzo
Of special interest is the small, paleo-christian Church of Saint Lorenzo. An archeological site in its own right, the old church has actually been excavate underneath the existing church of the same name, Church of Sant Lorenzo.
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
The Cryptoportico
No one actually knows what the Cryptoportico was used for, it is only known that it was a large rectangular structure with a corresponding lighted basement. It has been conjectured that the layout hints at its use as a marketplace and the cellar as a storage place for grain and other commodities. Unfortunately the slide show provided in the cellar is provided only in Italian, but that appears to only have explained the archeological details of the excavation and not necessarily its intended use.
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches excavations
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches
Aosta – Cryptoporticus Museum – Barrel Arches
Restaurants
Caffe Nazionale
Its claim to fame ostensibly is that it’s the oldest cafe in Aosta. Aside from its coffee being overpriced, its outside seating suffering from the hot sun (no umbrellas) and it only having one staff member taking orders, its coffee and brioche are good. However, when I can purchase two Capucinos and two Brioches of the same or better quality right next to my hotel at half the price, it is definitely not worth it! However, if you want a seat in the Piazza Emile Chanoux to eat breakfast, then it is perhaps one of your only options.
Aosta – Caffe Nazionale – Piazza Emile Chanoux
Ristorante Aldente
A very good restaurant, offering both inside and outside seating, is Aldente.
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente
They have a full wine list, with a concentration on local and regional wines, so a great place to try something new. The menu has all the local favorites, consisting of a blend of Italian and French cuisines. A great place to eat for a special evening, or just to relax and enjoy great food.
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente – Fumin Wine – Valle D’Aosta
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente – Braised Veal with Vegetables
House O Break
A fantastic place for lunch or dinner. We ate here twice, since they have a varied menu with many local specialties at very good prices.
Aosta – Break O House – Front
Aosta – Break O House – Spaghetti e Vongole
Aosta – Break O House – Crepe with Fontina Cheese and Béchamel
PubBurger
Nothing special, but dying for something different we went to a burger chain here called PubBurger. The burgers are actually pretty good, but the buns are a bit hard, unlike the ones in the States. The quantity of French Fries too was a bit on the small side, considering it is a burger place, but I didn’t complain because the size of the burger was HUGE!
