Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not doubt a miracle town amongst towns in Germany. Partially bombed during World War II, it took an American officer and the German commander of the city at the time to spare this town. The results of which, we are able to enjoy this middle-age town as it appears today, forty percent of which was nevertheless destroyed by allied bombing before it was stopped.
Panorama Tauber river valley – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
It is located in Bavaria and is about one and a half to two hours drive from the Frankfurt area on the A3 and A7, weather permitting of course. There are several parking areas to choose from for visitors, though we found street parking a block or so further out for free.
Plönlein with Kobolzeller Steige and Spitalgasse – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
If it weren’t for it’s strange history at the end of World War II, this town would be easily overlooked. Not necessarily by Germans, but definitely by international tourists always looking for some interesting sidebar or reason to visit. Luckily, even on a Saturday, we did not find it all that busy for a tourist destination. We only hope that it will stay that way.
Patti, Dana, Gabi and Ericka – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Erick – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Dana – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Ericka and Dana – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Ericka – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Marktplatz
The center square hosts various shops and restaurants, as well as the Town Hall and Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower. Saint George’s fountain can also be found here toward the lower part of the square.
Business shields – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Italian Ice place – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Spitalgasse with Spitalturm in distance – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Marktplatz – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Rathausturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Apotheke shield – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
St. George fountain – Marktplatz – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Dana – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Towers
Rothenburg has many towers on all sides of the town, especially on the eastern side. The main entrance towers are of course grander, but the little ones are no less impressive.
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The City Wall
It is one of only three towns in Germany which is still encompassed by a fully intact town wall. The eastern part of the wall, the one which we were actually able to walk on, was mostly repaired after its destruction at the end of the war.
Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Old unused staircase – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Front and entrance – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Front and entrance – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Several parts are boarded up or unreachable, but many people from around the world contributed funds in the effort to reconstruct it, making it possible to enjoy it today. There are several main entry points, Gallows Gate, Thomas Tower and one near Ruckesse Tower, to name a few.
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Restaurants
There are many restaurants to choose from in Rothenburg, many of which are located in or near the town square. Luckily, we failed on locating an Italian restaurant that was open, but it is August and the Italians are notorious for taking the entire month off for vacation. That forced to find the amazing place that we did below.
Reichsküchenmeister – Das Herz von Rothenburg
If you are able to obtain a seat in the garden, one of the go to places in Rothenburg for a weekend lunch or early dinner.
Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
The garden is just amazing, a totally relaxed atmosphere where we were fortunate enough to have a very responsive waiter. The menu is varied enough where one should be able to find something to fit their culinary needs.
Erbsensuppe – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Mixed salad – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Mixed salad with Feta – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Caprese salad – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Erick and Patti – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Dana, Gabi and Ericka – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
After spending a week in Frankfurt, we decided to spend some time in München, or Munich, Germany. The most affective way to do this from Frankfurt is by train, particularly the ICE DB service. In three hours and some odd number of minutes, you can travel between the two main train stations in comfort.
ICE Train to Munich – Storm Front – München, Germany
With most of the family here, we were seven and traveling by train such a short distance just made the most sense, since our daughter and son-in-law had our grandson along. This gave him some added room to walk around an annoy other people instead of just us, breaking up the monotony of the journey. Not really, but it did provide him enough space to get the wiggles out, as opposed to other modes of transport, like an airplane or automobile.
München
The largest city in Bayern, or Bavaria, Munich is a large, bustling city completely accustomed to tourists and tourism. If you are a mono-lingual English speaker, you will find no problem getting around in Munich, most of the residence and restaurant staff speak fluent English.
Marianplatz
The largest and most central of the squares or piazzas in Munich is the Marianplatz. It is most likely your U- or S-Bahn destination from the Hauptbahnhof and the energetic core of the tourism industry.
Marianplatz and the new Rathaus – München, Germany
The Marianplatz is girdled with high-end shopping, caffes and tourism shops. It also has many historical monuments and fountains, as well as churches and other places of interest.
Neues Rathaus and Glockenspiel
Most people will likely concentrate on the Old City, Marianplatz where the Glockenspiel plays it’s tune everyday at eleven and twelve o’clock (sometimes at seventeen o’clock in the winter).
Neues Rathaus – München, Germany
Der Affenturm – München, Germany
Isar Tor – München, Germany
It plays a rather long ditty that includes the operation of the top and then the bottom carousel of automatons.
Altstadt-Lehel
This region of München lies just to the north of the old city, or Altstadt. Here is where you will find the palaces, gardens and other grand accoutrements of the city.
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English Gardens
A large garden located to the north of the main part of the city, it is a very nice place to visit on a sunny day. A large city park with many different things to see and experience, it even has a place that people go to surf, if one can believe such a thing can exist away from the coast in a city.
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
Eisbachwelle
Just on the south east end of the gardens you will discover the river Eisbach and the Eisbachwelle. This is a fast moving stream that has been conveniently modified through the use of carefully placed stones into a haven for surf-boarders. It’s amazing to stop for a bit just to see their skill and how they are able to throw their boards in and hop on in all but an instant, truly remarkable.
Eisbachwelle – München, Germany
Eisbachwelle – München, Germany
Maximiliansanlagen and the Isar
Another great place for a stroll is Maximilian’s garden. A very well kept park which stretches along the Isar and the Isarinsel or island that provides a cool contemplative place for de-stressing and an escape from the warm summer midday.
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Here you will find the Friedensengel monument and several other interesting points of interest. The two bridges that bound it, the Luitpoldbrücke and the Maximiliansbrücke provide pedestrian friendly points of entry.
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Isar below the Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Isar – Luitpoldbrücke – München, Germany
The Isar – München, Germany
Of note are the Große Kascaden, or Great Cascades, a series of weirs and fish ladders that provide a series of small waterfalls. The Wehr WKW-Praterkraftwerk, or power station, is built into the structure to provide electric power to the city. Through thoughtful design of constructing flood control they have provided electricity as well.
Restaurants
We spent time at the following restaurants. Some are must see, even though the food will not be up to expectations. We found the smaller establishments to be better, especially the service and cleanliness.
Hofbräuhaus
Well, perhaps the largest and most well-known beerhall in München, the Munich Hofbräuhaus is as large and as busy as it will get in a place to eat. They have a gift shop to match your expectations for a large one liter glass.
Entrance – Hofbräuhaus – München, Germany
Carved face – Hofbräuhaus – München, Germany
The band was great and our food was okay. Service is always going to be a problem at such a large establishment, that’s why I prefer the smaller places.
However, if you can overlook the local fauna, an interesting place to eat and drink. I have found a lack of service usually indicates a lack of cleanliness; if they cannot serve you, they cannot clean properly either – just a thought. In any case, one of the go-to places and a must see. Have a drink and if the fauna bother you, avoid the rest of the menu.
Salad – Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Sauerbraten with Knudel – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Der Pschorr
Another very good place for German food, perhaps the best that we had while in Munich. The service was very good as well, they kind of went out of their way to welcome families with children. You will find the place open and inviting with a good menu and food. Jett, Meagan and Jason’s baby ate for free, something not seen too often today.
Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Salad – Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim
One of Dana’s picks and an attempt to find that authentic German restaurant look and feel. It was really close, we found only one waiter that spoke English here, the others spoke German for the most part, though I was confident they could completely understand English.
Entrance – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Old Augustiner faß – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Dana, Meagan, Jett, Jason and Patti – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl
Overall a good place for German food. The service is better and the staff seems more attentive to customer needs. The food is also better, both tastier and presentation-wise. They can also accommodate larger families without the squeeze. There is however no band, so if you are looking for the Umpa-band look and feel, you will not find it here.
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
The food and service were very good and the atmosphere a mix of old and new Bavaria. This restaurant is a bit out of the way and a bit of a walk from the city center, but worth the visit.
Zum Dürnbräu
Here we had a pleasant meal outside not far from our hotel, even though the weather was a bit questionable with rain possible. The service was a bit slow, but the food was good and we had a very good time. The sauerbraten was first rate and I got to try the Apfelküchle, or fried apple rings with cinnamon and light sugar, which I found delightful.
Entrance and terrace – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Sauerbraten with Knudel – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Apfelküchle – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Tavernetta Cucina con Pizza
After some time German food creates issues that only Italian food can cure. When you come to this Rubicon, you can cross by considering a place like Tavernetta, where you can enjoy some Italian food. They have a good menu, good service and the prices are not astronomical.
Entrance – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Sign – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Small Caprese – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Tagliatelle Bolognese – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Not having an abundance of time, we decided to stay somewhat local a few times and visit Mainz and Frankfurt, both of which are but a stone’s throw away from Offenbach. Since we have been to both several times, we wanted to show other family members these two cities and will post mostly photographs without a lot of text.
Mainz
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Restaurants
While in Mainz, we stopped at one of our favorite restaurants, or in this case a Wine house (Weinhaus), that our friends Karl Heinz and Isolde Seegräber introduced us to in the course of one of our earlier visits.
With a cohort of eight, we found it impossible with only one car to make a day trip on the weekend of August the 17th, so we took the Regional Train direct from Offenbach Hauptbahnhof (Hbf). In 25 mintues with the RE51 you can be in Gelnhausen, or with the RB51 slightly longer; both operate often and at regular intervals.
Overlook of the town – Gelnhausen, Germany
Gelnhausen
An unusual destination for non-Germans, Gelnhausen does not offer much but a change of scenery, a lazy stroll in the park and perhaps different opportunities to eat.
Kinzig River – Gelnhausen, Germany
Ziegelturm – Gelnhausen, Germany
Kinzig River – Gelnhausen, Germany
Ziegelturm – Gelnhausen, Germany
Schmidtgasse – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
The town is separated into lower and upper market places, or Unter- and Obermarkt, both of which act as parking lots for locals and visitors alike. Since we took the train, the entry to the town was over the Kinzig river and through the Ziegelturm.
Houses of timber – Gelnhausen, Germany
Innenstadt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Hotel in the Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Walking the narrow streets of Gelnhausen the visitor will notice numerous timber houses with sayings on them. In many towns, this is an old practice which has been used probably for centuries, either to provide some humor or commentary on the events of the time.
More sayings – Gelnhausen, Germany
Pfarrgasse – Gelnhausen, Germany
Cute sayings on house – Gelnhausen, Germany
Very old house – Gelnhausen, Germany
More timber houses – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Altstadt Hotel – Gelnhausen, Germany
On the other end of town, after the Obermarkt you can wander through the Holzgasse Tower to find the old town wall. Here you will enjoy a very nice park with an overlook of the town and surrounding area.
No weather maintenance (snow) – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Town – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Town overlook from wall – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Not far from the entrance is a memorial to the fallen soldiers of the town from the two world wars.
War Memorial – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
War Memorial – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
The town also has a few other monuments or fountains worth visiting.
Schoeller memorial – Gelnhausen, Germany
Statue in the Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Stadtplan – Gelnhausen, Germany
Old town fountain – Gelnhausen, Germany
Restaurants
There are many restaurants in this small town, though few were open. However, from what we could tell, there would be many cuisines to choose from had the other restaurants been open.
Malamatina’s Greek Restaurant
Off the beaten path and not far from the Obermarkt, is Malamatina’s Greek restaurant. Though the sign says, Greek and German food, we didn’t see much in the way of German food on the menu..
A thirty minute drive from Frankfurt on the A3 is the lazy, old town of Idstein, Germany. Frequently overlooked by tourists, this small little town, nestled on the other side of the Taunus mountains, is a favorite of cyclists and other outdoor enthusiasts.
Erick & Patti – Marktplatz – Idstein, Germany
Marktplatz – Idstein, Germany
Innenstadt Altstadt – Idstein, Germany
We happened to visit on a lark, having visited many of the other towns in the area. It has a cute Innenstadt and Marktplatz that has several restaurants of various cuisines, all of which seem to be reasonably priced.
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The town also has a very large tower, called the “Hexenturm”, which may be ascended, if you are inclined to seeing a panorama of the town and neighboring countryside. It was fairly hot out and the tower is pretty tall, so we declined.
Kanzeleitor – Idstein, Germany
Hexenturm – Idstein, Germany
Ericka & Gabi – Hexenturm – Idstein, Germany
Kanzeleitor – Idstein, Germany
Hexenturm – Idstein, Germany
Pestalozzischule – Idstein, Germany
Other than that, the town is apparently noted for its schools or gymnasium. But for the tourist, it is just a nice place to spend a weekend afternoon strolling the streets and after a nice lunch, stopping for ice cream at the local ice cream parlor.
Restaurants
For a small town on a weekend, the town has a surprising amount of restaurants. All of which, appear to be very busy.
Deutsches Haus
Regardless of the name, which obviously must be a vestige of the prior establishment, the Deutsches Haus is a fine place to stop for a lunch. It serves Greek cuisine and has a variety of salads and cold plates to choose from on a hot day, or heavier fare, if you are more hungry. All I can say is the Greek salad with Feta is first rate. Our bill came to about 20€/person with drinks, which we felt was reasonable.
Deutsches Haus – Greek Restaurant – Idstein, Germany
After somewhat of a hiatus, we are back for a bit in Turin. Several things required our attention at home and therefore we have been away longer than we would have liked.
Piazza San Carlo, Turin – 2024
In many respects the city is just like we left it last year, in some others, not so much. There are major public works projects going on, so there are some major thoroughfares that are closed and other scaffolding eye-sores to try and ignore. Aside from that, it is rather quiet, since most Italians have left for their August vacation.
Weather
We thought the weather in North Carolina was strange, being as wet as it has been before we left. But it appears to have followed us here as well.
Very bad thunderstorm with hail, via Plana – Turin – 2024
Though not unheard of, this is not the rainy season in Turin, thunderstorms are usually rare this time of year. This one popped up from nowhere and caused quite a scene. It also was severe enough to trash most of the vegetation, especially in our courtyard. My only hope is the sorrounding wine regions were spared.
Restaurants
For the month and a half that we will be here, we have visited or re-visited the following restaurants in our city.
Trattoria D’Agata
This restaurant has great food and decent house wine, if you like that with your lunch. The Chicken Cutlet is huge and very filling, so be careful what else you order with it. The Caponata is amazing, so that is a must order item, if you don’t you will regret it, there is nothing comparable in the States. The Arancini is also a must try!
Arancini – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Arancini from the inside – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Caponata – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Eggplant Parm – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Chicken Cutlet – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
At Home
We cook Italian and rather conservatively most evenings. A typical dish that is easy to make and tastes great, especially with tomatoes from Italy, is Pasta e Patate in olive sauce with Pecorino Romano DOP cheese sprinkled over it. Yum.
Dinner at Giovanni GIolitti – Pasta with olives – Turin – 2024
