Sintra, Portugal – Missed Outing

Sintra, Portugal – Missed Outing

With optimism in the weather and a plan for a good day, we headed to Sintra, Portugal, in the hopes of seeing the Moorish Castle or the National Palace of Pena. Unfortunately, shortly after we arrived our hopes were dashed after we learned the weather had trashed the place and everything in the park was more or less closed due to too many fallen trees, so a missed outing.

Park – Sintra, Portugal

How To Get There

By metro it takes about forty-five minutes, leaving Lisbon’s Rossio metro station, a number of blocks from our hotel uphill, to Sintra station about a dozen stops away. This metro line is very busy, so be prepared.

The Town

Is chaotically laid out and has many narrow passageways and alleys. As with most of Portugal, you get the feeling you must always climb up or down, so be prepared for a lot of steps.

Quinta da Regaleira

The Quinta da Regaleira was another issue. Though we wanted to visit the property, it only has reservations and time slots. Aside from that, the line was so long, since everyone was looking for alternatives due to the closures, that it was quickly out of available times. So we took some photographs and turned around.

Biester Palace

Having failed to come on a day when the majority of the park was open, we settled on the Biester Palace, so that the day and trip was not a total loss.

Not technically a palace, the residence that is called Biester Palace stands prominently and views from the grounds are very nice. The grounds are quiet enough and there is a cafe where one can enjoy a hot or cold drink while enjoying the beautiful flora.

The house itself is decorated with wood, a majority of its finish and main rooms are adorned with something similar, if not, oak. One comes away with the house having an almost Spartan interior and the chapel appears to be the most adorned room in the house.

There is an elevator, though it was never electrified and gives the appearance that it was only used when company was present, or for other civil tasks.

The Ninth Gate

One claim to fame this house has that might appeal to some,  it was one of the locations where Roman Polanski shot the film The Ninth Gate. It was during Dean Corso’s travels to visit Victor Fargas that the house and fountain are involved in the movie.

Restaurants

In Sintra there are plenty of restaurants and cafes, so you shouldn’t have a difficult time to find a place to eat.

Fatto da Claudio Coelho

A nice place for lunch, service Italian food and other specialties. We each shared the bruschetta and a pasta special, so something simple and somewhat light.

Lisbon, Portugal – Piazza And Park

Lisbon, Portugal – Piazza And Park

Our first day consisted mostly of getting to know Lisbon a bit and visiting the main piazza, walking the main avenue and visiting the park. The weather could not have been better and we enjoyed blue skies and mild temperatures for our outing.

Caldeirinha Dock – Lisbon, Portugal

The City

Since our hotel was located in Chiado, the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus was not far away. First we visited a few monuments along the riverfront and some artwork, then we headed for the Piazza of Commerce.

Park Of Europe

The city is actually pretty nice and very clean, the city appears to make a concerted effort to maintain the streets and cleaning activities can be seen all around. A few blocks below our hotel was the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus, a gorgeous waterfront walk that takes you to the piazza. On a clear day, it is crowded by tourists and weekenders walking leisurely toward their unknown destinations.

Piazza of Commerce

The first really large attraction to see in the city is the piazza, which proudly displays the Gate of Rua Augusta as one of its entry points.

This is a very large open space that is surrounded by cafes and restaurants. In the center is the Equestrian Statue of King José I which towers over onlookers. On a bright sunny day it may seem vaguely reminiscent of Venice’s San Marco’s square near the water.

Avenue of Liberation

To get there we walked the Avenue of Liberation, a long and beautiful walk covered by sampietrini (small cobblestone) and dotted by fountains. It is flanked by high-end stores and dealerships and a shoppers paradise no doubt.

Park Of Eduardo VII

It is a rather large park that rises up out of the bowl that is Lisbon is the Park of Eduardo VII, named after a king of the United Kingdom.

Throughout the city you will find many different modes of transportation. The most ubiquitous form would be the Tuk-Tuk trucks that are all over the main tourist spots. When you venture further out, you will have to look for more mundane forms, like the streetcar or tram, which we have in Turin and find eminently fitted for the job. There are also numerous cable cars sprinkled throughout the city, where the hills dictate a hardy form of transport.

Restaurants

Though we have sampled the Portuguese cuisine, we found that there is only so much of it one can eat; so we quickly revert back to the food we love.

La Trattoria

La Trattoria is an Italian restaurant in the San Antonio district of central Lisbon. It is not easy to find and we found ourselves to be practically the only tourists there, the rest were business people who come to enjoy the buffet. It is a contemporary Italian restaurant that offers many staple Italian dishes, as well as the buffet for a fixed price. The food is very good and priced a little higher than you will find in other areas.

Lisbon, Portugal – Travel Day

Lisbon, Portugal – Arrival and First Day

We had beautiful weather for our trip from Porto to Lisbon. The train was packed and this was even the off-season for travel. As far as comfort, the train line between the two cities is a bit rough and curvy, so if you have any form of travel sickness, take your medications!

There were several areas along the way that showed the affects of all the rain Portugal has received this spring. Several places were flooded and there appeared to be a lot of farm land underwater.

Lisbon Central Station

The main train station in the city is Lisbon Central Station, which is also a bus and metro hub, so you have several travel options when you arrive to your hotel. We chose a cab, but be careful and take a photograph of your meter before you get out, our cab driver still tried to rip us off. Instead of the 12.60€ he was owed, he tried to charge us 20€ and finally got 15€. He was very talkative and did show us a few sights along the way, but it still annoyed the both of us.

Palácio das Especiarias

We stayed at the Palácio das Especiarias, a boutique hotel on the edge of the old historic part of town.

They have individualized rooms, a beautiful garden and many free amenities.

Every day after 3PM, they have free wine and cheese downstairs, which you may also take up to the garden or even your rooms. The wine appears to come from the Duoro River region and is pretty good.

Palacio das Especiarias – Welcome Room – Lisbon, Portugal

Restaurants

Azia Thai Restaurant

Pretty tired from our journey we immediately started looking for comfort food, what better cuisine than Chinese food!

It is a small restaurant but prepares all manner of dishes, from Thai, Japanese to Chinese. They also have a pretty good wine list with half bottles. The wonton soup with noodles is very good and highly commended.

Porto, Portugal – Last Day

Porto, Portugal – Last Day

On our last day in Porto, we saw the Lello Bookstore, the Old Stock Exchange and took the funicular up to the upper portion of the Luis I Bridge and rode the gondola back down to the Vila Nuova de Gaia.

Lello Bookstore

After an early start we climbed our way back up to the Miragaia, not only for breakfast, but to stand in line to see the inside of a bookstore.

Palácio da Bolsa

The Palácio da Bolsa, the Stock Exchange Palace or Euronext Lisbon, used to house the stock exchange for Portugal. Now, only certain members of the administration have offices here, and hence, it is required to have guided tours.

The tour only lasts for about thirty minutes and you learn of the many former leaders and functions of the palace. It is an active building and holds many events internally, including operettas for small crowds.

Of particular note is the reception room where the wealth of the stock exchange and Portugal was to promote and entice investors. The walls are festooned with non-sensical Arabic symbols denoting the rooms secular monetary cause.

Six Bridges Cruise

There are several lines that promote a voyage to see the six bridges along the River Duoro in the area. The problem is, it is actually only five bridges and one viaduct, so don’t be surprised if your counting is minus one. However, we found it a good fifty minute excursion along the waterway and rather relaxing, if not totally uneventful.

 

Porto, Portugal – Another Look

Porto, Portugal – Another Look

After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.

Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal

São Bento Train Station

The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.

Praça da Ribeira

A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.

Luís I Bridge

Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.

Vila Nova de Gaia

On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.

Churches

Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.

Church Of Saint Anthony

A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.

Carmo Church

Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.

The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.

The Hidden House

Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.

The Museum

The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.

Restaurants and Cafes

The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.

Casa Deolinda

A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.

The weather too, did not disappoint.

Fabrica da Nata Cafe

Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.

Popina Restaurant

On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.

Popina Restaurant – Entrance – Porto, Portugal

Porto, Portugal – Our Rainy Start

Porto, Portugal – Our Rainy Start

Wanting to visit Porto, after hearing such good things about the city from family and friends, we decided to book a trip during the off season, March in fact. Our Tickets For Two were of course electronic, so no photographs of them, sorry.

Getting There

From Turin there are two direct flights twice weekly to Porto, Portugal with RyanAir, which is also a designated hub of this carrier. Two weeks ago we booked our stays and flights, well knowing the weather during this time of year is very undependable, it did not disappoint.

The flight was a little over two hours and left in the evening, in fact all the flights on Mondays and Fridays between these two cities are evening flights. We left around 6:30PM and arrived a little after 9:00PM, but it is actually 8:00PM local time, since you gain an hour.

Our arrival was bumpy and wet, so after we arrived, Patti and I decided to take a taxi instead of the metro. It was a good decision, first it only cost us thirty Euros and second, it was pouring out; so getting door to door service was very helpful.

Carris Hotel Ribiera

The Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto is no doubt a collection of a few building that have been extensively renovated. It is close to the water and midway down the river embankment, so no matter which was you walk there will be a hill.

The accommodations are modern enough, though there are a few oddities and some unpleasant things, for one the bed in the room was very hard. Another unfortunate oversight, the safe provided in the room is not bolted to the wall or closet, so anyone can easily just pick it up with all of your possessions and leave the room; we therefore chose not to use it.

Porto – The City

The city of Porto, or Oporto, may pose difficulties for some. For one it essentially lays on the very steep banks of the River Douro, which has its source deep in central Spain, and therefore is very hilly.

The city is known for its buildings having tiled facades, as well as many of its famous buildings, like the Sao Bento train station and its churches and cathedral.

Churches and Cathedrals

There are many churches and cathedrals in the city, some are free to enter, others have been repurposed and charge a fee.

Parish Church of St. Nicholas

The Parish Church of Saint Nicholas was the first church we visited. We were stuck by its tiled exterior. The interior has an amazing golden altar with a painting of a scene after the crucifixion.

Church of Saint Francis

The Church of Saint Francis is without a doubt, one of the most  beautiful churches we have been lucky enough to visit. Almost the entire interior is decorated with carved wooden and gilded ornamentation depicting all different scenes from Catholicism.

The Church Museum

The museum houses an impressive collection of church artifacts and treasures, it is probably worth the reasonable cost of entry alone.

The Crypt

One of the more extensive crypts we have seen. It also has a peculiar floor that has removable panels, no doubt for easy access to the remains in place in each sarcophagus.

Porto Cathedral

Ostensibly the Porto Cathedral is crowning jewel of the church in the city, however we did not find it as interesting as St. Francis. There are several self-guided tours to chose from, including the Bishop’s quarters which we decided against. However, the rest of the grounds are interesting, if only for the tile work, or Azulejo, for which the cathedral and most of the city is so keenly known.

Clerigos Church

Though we did not go in, there is a fee to enter, we enjoyed the church from the street. It wasn’t really clear from our research that it was particularly known for anything, so we decided to skip this church.

Torre Dos Clerigos

Likewise, the clock tower associated with it looks impressive from the street and probably has some interesting points inside, however, again we chose not to indulge on paying for entry, since we had no inclination for climbing the stairs to the top, we had already seen an overview of the city from other vantage points.

Restaurants and Cafes

Most restaurants and cafes in Porto are small, actually very small, and you will be lucky to find a place to sit down if you are not lucky or willing to wait. For dinner it is always best to make a reservation, almost all restaurants take and honor them, though some may restrict the amount of time you may keep you table.

Forno Velho

This restaurant is part of the Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto and serves a limited, but very good selection of food from their menu. We ate here because it was late, around 9:30PM and raining outside. Though they do get a premium price for their entrees, the food was very good and well prepared, and we received a fifteen percent discount on our bill.

Rocinha Cafe

On our first morning in Porto we ate at the Rocinha Cafe, which lies around the corner on the same block as our hotel. It offered an English Breakfast for ten Euros each, and we were able to substitute our cappuccinos as our beverage of choice, so our total bill was twenty Euros.

A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant

For lunch we ate at A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant. This establishment is obviously owned by an owner of a vineyard or larger farm in the area, since they have a particular brand of wine. Expect good food with a paced, if not slow service, since there is only one server and one cook. Oh, and if they bring out hot sauce that has an eye-dropper in it, it most definitely serious stuff, so administer appropriately on your dish.

Incontro Bistro

If you are looking for a small traditional Italian dinner look no further than Incontro Bistro, it is essentially a hole in the wall with a kitchen and seven tables. We sat next to the kitchen and had a wonderful time enjoying the cacophony and smells. The only one thing to point would be they only serve macaroni pasta, no long pasta, so you have to choose from one of those.

Why I Like Rubber Bands

Why I Like Rubber Bands

One of my favorite traveling companions along with the ziplock bag is the lowly rubber band. I favor them over twisties and other forms for holding things together because of their utility and the variety of ways they can be used.

I always keep of bag of them handy and maintain that a good collection of rubber bands will keep any avid traveler from going completely mad, especially after their first experience of pulling out a tangled spiderweb of cables from their travel backpack.

They come in a variety of sizes and thicknesses, so it is important to find a staple or common size that fits most of your needs, and then later add to your collection as you find new sizes. I prefer the thicker ½” × 2″ (1.25cm × 5cm) model, though I keep others as well, just in case.

If you live and travel from the States you are especially in luck, most grocery stores there give you free rubber bands on the produce you purchase. I have found celery to be the number one item where you can find them. These are especially good because they are normally more robust than others, in order to keep the stalks of celery from falling off during shipment. I also like them because they are free, you just have to have the presence of mind while you are unpacking your celery to grab them. Unfortunately, I have found their analogs in Europe to be not as good, so do not wait or expect to find good quality rubber bands in most other countries. I have found most of them flimsy, thin and made of materials that disintegrate over time, leaving a melted mess behind than can be difficult to remove from item, especially cloth.

I particularly use them for my cables. But I have also found them very useful in the kitchen to hold bags, packages and opened containers together so that you can reuse the contents later. Women might also find them useful hairties to pull their hair back. What ever the reason, I would commend the lowly rubber band over many other things as one of the primary things to pack as you travel to your next destination.

Frankfurt, Germany – Some Eateries In The Area

Frankfurt, Germany – Some Eateries In The Area

We recently spent two weeks in the Frankfurt area with family. While we were there, we had the good fortune to visit a few new restaurants and a couple of old favorites.

Restaurants In Frankfurt

Lokal Bahnhof

Though we did eat at the Lokal Bahnhof in Frankfurt Süd, Darmstädter Landstraße 14, it was not remarkable enough to take any photographs. A nice enough place to eat for lunch, but aside from a quick bite, nothing special.

Restaurants In Offenbach

Papi Original Italian Ristorante

Located in Offenbach, at Friedrichsring 39, is an excellent place for an evening meal called Papi Original Italian. A favorite of our’s when we are in the area, it had good service and very good food. The menu has very good southern Italian dishes and pizza, so something for everyone.

Restaurants In Dreieich

Since we were staying in Dreieich, most of the restaurants we visited were in this small, quaint little town.

China Restaurant Hong Kong

The China Restaurant Hong Kong is located on Hauptstraße 8 on the main avenue of town. It has laterns outside, so is easily visible from your car as you drive passed it. However, it is also an easy walk from some of the nearby parking locations.

The food is good and they have a good variety on the menu, including Thai and some Vietnamese dishes.

Wirsthaus Leopolt

If you are actually looking for German food, look no further than Leopolt’s. They have weekly specials, as well as all the favorites and a variety of other dishes. It is also located in town at Hauptstraße 20.

La Rughetta Ristorante

On Eisenbahnstraße 38 is the Italian restaurant La Rughetta. A smaller establishment than the others, it has a small, comfortable atmosphere with a family cooking feel. The menu has your typical items on it and the food is very good, though you may have to wait some time before it appears, so bring your patience.

La Faggio

A newer, more upscale place to eat, that has the appearance of one of the in-places to go is La Faggio, located closer to the train station at Buchschlager Allee 19. Though the eating area is rather spacious, we had the impression there were not enough servers to adequately attend to everyone in a timely manner; so be prepared to wait longer, even to order.

Al Dente da Pino Ristorante

At the other end of town is Al Dente da Pino Ristorante at Dieselstraße 3. Again, an Italian restaurant with a friendly charm and comfortable atmosphere. The food is very good and the service prompt and friendly. Probably one of the better places in town to eat.

Restaurants In Dreieichenhain

A short stone’s throw away from Dreieich is Dreieichenhain, a medieval little touristy like town with a Roman Wall and Clock Tower Gate. We have been here several times and try a different place to eat, each time we visit. On the day of our visit it was for a small brunch.

Cafe Cult

A small cafe kind of in the middle of town. Modern, friendly and quick, they have something for most everyone. Including very good coffee and other drinks. The desserts look amazing, though we did not try any. The bagels are bread type bagels, not traditional jewish bagels, but sufficient for bagel sandwiches, which were very tasty.