Klagenfurt – Carinthia’s Capitol

Gruss Gott! This is the customary greeting when you visit Austria. Though many speak English here, they will still use this greeting upon meeting you. So, become an Austrian for a day and smile and say it back, it’s easy.

Nestled in the heart of Carinthia is its capitol, Klagenfurt am Wörthersee. Though at first a bit abstract and hard to get a feel for it, after a few days stay and talking to the people in their own language, we have actually become very comfortable with this happy little city. It is quite open at the moment showing little affects of the pandemic, though one can see the occasional store closed (though it might not be related.)

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The Capitol’s Main Sights

There are of course several sites here to see, some religious, some governmental and others historic. The best way to show this is a quick slide show, since there really is no better way to cover so much succintly.

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Lindwurmbrunnen

An interesting Brunnen, or fountain, is the Lindwurnbrunnen in Neuer Platz. This fountain is actually central to the fable or history of the creation of Klagenfurt.

The inscription tells some of the tale in a very abbreviated form. The actual fable or story unfolded more like the following.

A Lindwurm once lived in the swamp around Klagenfurt. The river that flows through the city often flooded. This threatened travelers and city dwellers and a Dragon was thought to be the cause of these floods. It was actually a Lindworm. The Duke offered a reward for which some men tied a bull to a chain and offered it to the Lindwurm. When it took the bate, it was hooked and then swiftly killed.

 

The Wörtherseemandl is a small tourist attraction close to the sister city pavement marker. I do not think there is much meaning behind it, other than a piece of art that someone created for the city.

Restaurants

We visited only two restaurants while in the city proper, one was Italian, which will not be covered since it is not Austrian. Though if you are ever in the city and looking for Italian food there are several restaurants around.

Haus am Markt

The HAM, or the Haus am Markt restaurant is typical Austrian, or more precisely Carinthian food.

A small clip of the Oom-pa Two Person band we enjoyed while eating, how Austrian!

We go next to the actual Wörthersee for a special day and boat trip on the lake. So stay tuned!  Auf Wiedersehen!

Venice – Without Tourists – Part Three

This last part, includes some of the additional things we were able to enjoy while in Venice, especially good places to dine. We found it takes about a week to get a really good feel for Venice. We also think it’s especially true that you have not really seen Venice until you have visited the other islands, as well as other out-of-the-way places around Venice proper.

Other Interesting Sights

For those that love architecture you will want to see the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, Corte Contarina in San Marco. A bit of a challeng to find, but when you get close enough, there are signs pointing the way. They of course use Scala not Palazzo, for stairs, so do not let that confuse you!

Another great sight is the tiniest alleyway in Venice. Called Calle Varisco, or sometimes Calletta Varisco (incorrectly mind you). It is a fairly narrow passage that goes nowhere, or more precisely, a canal of all things. But there are others in and around Venice, that are likewise very narrow, for example the Calle de la Raffineria.

There are also several impressive 24-hour clocks that are in and around Venice. Though not terribly easy to find, with some research and a flexible itinerary, they make wonderful sights to see.

Restaurants

We ate at many good and one fine restaurants while in Venice, here is our take on each.

Bistrot de Venise

Probably some of the finest dining in Venice, the Bistrot de Venise has a menu and winelist that rate high on our list. A bit pricey, but if you can afford it and go with the flow, that is, let them do their job, you will not be disappointed.

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Ristorante Antica Sacrestia

Another jewel in the crown of Venice is the Ristorante Antica Sacrestia. Rather humble from the outside, the inside is a nice little courtyard with stone, well shaded from the midday sun. Perfect for the lunchtime replenishment.

Osteria la Zucca

Osteria la Zucca con Cucina is a very nice place for true Venetian cuisine. If you are looking for some home-cooked Italian food, this is you place. I can speak from experience, the Mousakka is great, as is the house wine.

Ristorante Rosa Rossa

Ristorante Rosa Rossa on Calle de la Mandola, is a restaurant and pizzeria and is great for families, small gatherings and couples, with plenty of outside seating. Their pizza is delicious and large enough for two to share, when accompanied with salad and drinks.

Cicchetti Arciccchetti Bakaro

Last but not least, if you are in Venice, you have to visit a cicchetti. While walking around, you might see signs about cicchetti this and cicchetti that, but it’s usually simple street food served at a bar. Normally, there is a selection which you may pick and choose from, along with assorted drinks that can be ordered at the same. We stopped here while just out for a long walk. The Deli bites were one for a Euro and drinks were as usual, pretty inexpensive.

Conclusion

As opposed to our last whirlwind tour of Venice, this trip was a totally different and a more enjoyable experience. Not only the lack of tourists has helped my own opinion of Venice, but also the Summer heat has cooperated and our length of stay was what we would call minimal (one week). There is plenty to see for sure. If the factors are conducive and you are able to spend more than a week, I would, just to get a better overall feel for Venice. However, the amount of tourism they let come back, will dictate whether or not Venice will feel like a place you would want to stay longer than a week. That remains to be seen.

Our next stop takes us to Austria, so stay tuned for our adventures and insights there; until then, Ciao!

Venice – Without Tourists – Part Two

There is no doubt, that one of the more utilitarian things you can have in your wallet when traveling to Venice, is a Vaporetto pass. It will make those stretches between the islands more economical and easy to manage. Whereas a taxi ride may run up to a hundred or so Euros, a pass for seven days costs around 60€, and will take you to most places on the water. They also have one, two, three and five day passes if I recall correctly.

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Tickets For Two – The Vaporetto

The tickets can be purchased in multiple place, but the easiest place to find them are right outside the train station. There is a string of ACTV stands right before the Grand Canal.

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Venice From Above

A Taxi Ride To Murano

Booking a full-day tour through Mark the American, which we would recommend if you have the time, included the luxury of an incidental taxi ride out to the island of Murano, which is known for the glass blowing. Since our tour up to that time brought us to Piazza San Marco, the taxi made it extremely convenient by using the canals to cut through and get to the island in double quick time.

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Murano

Once on Murano, we walked a short way to our Glassblowing demonstration.

The master also gave us a private demonstration where he blew a glass vase. It took all of ten minutes for him to create a beautiful and colorful glass vase from what was once a molten ball of glass.

Burano

This island of Burano is especially interesting for the Lace manufacturers that work here. It is also well known for its beautifully painted houses, reminiscent of some tropical islands that we have visited.

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Before leaving this island, we debated for a while whether we should take the trip to Torcello. But, since we could see it from the Vaporetto station and it was so close, we hopped on and went over.

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Torcello From Burano – You Can See The Church

Torcello

A flat island, Torcello does not have much to see but the ancient Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, which was built before the middle ages. The walk to the church takes about ten or fifteen minutes on an improved surface, so you should not worry about any trails or wearing heavy shoes.

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There is a fee of 7€ to enter the basilica, but we felt it minimal since it was being used to renovate the old structure. There is much to explore in the basilica, so plan on a stay of 20 to 30 minutes.

The trip back, using the Vaporetto system, took about 45 minutes to an hour to our hotel on the Grand Canal and three different boats. That included waiting for them at the dock, which sometimes can be upwards of fifteen minutes.

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The Rialto Bridge – Not The Busiest I Have Seen It, But A Pleasure Anyway

A last note related to tourists and traffic. Since staying here, there has been a noticeable uptick in tourists. I suspect many are taking long weekend breaks to see Venice, before it eventually gets crowded again. However, the nights are still very quiet, we therefore think many people are staying outside and doing the park and ride in for the day. The weekdays were the least crowded, if you can call this crowded for Venice!

There will be one more post, on some last sights we enjoyed and the restaurants we visited in these last days here. Ciao.

Venice – Without Tourists – Part One

Arriving over the weekend with the expectation of finding few, if any tourist in Venice, we were pleasantly surprised. Apparently, we have beaten the rush to see some remarkable tourist spots, without all the international hords.

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Venice Train Station – Platforms Empty

Hotel NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci

We chose this four star hotel for its location to the Grand Canal and a pier for the Vaporettos, or ferries, that connect all of the islands together. We were not disappointed, it definitely has all the access we were looking for along with other comforts, amenities and conveniences we wanted, plus it’s very quiet.

Piazza San Marco

Usually abuzz with activity, this square or piazza is usually crowded during this time of year, with countless tourists. We have been fortunate to be here at this time, while the rest of the world struggles with how to cope with their outbreaks.

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Santa Maria della Salute

One of the four plague basilicas in Venice, the Santa Maria della Salute, contains a rare Black Madonna. The altar is especially grand.

The view from the end of the island, just down from Santa Maria, is amazing.

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Panoramic View of Part of the Grand Canal and Piazza San Marco

Caffè Florian

Established in 1720, Cafe Florian is arguably the oldest cafe in the world. It was amazing to sit and enjoy a drink in an establishment, that frankly is older than my own country.

Pastor Saverio Le Forcole

The old art of carving and developing individual forcole for Venetian gondola rowers goes way back and is passed down from master to apprentice after a lengthy teaching process. Pastor Saverio is one of four masters still performing his art on the island.

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If you are ever in Venice you should look him up. He speaks English and is willing to talk to anyone who has questions about his art and how it is used. You can probably spend hours doing just that, but he does have to work, so keep that in mind.

Okay, enough for now, we are here for the entire week and will probably post more once we get a few moments of down time. Next stops are the other islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello.

Rapallo – Tiny, But Rich In Food

Part Two

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The Restaurants

As can be imagined, there are many restaurants in Rapallo with many different cuisines, the main ones featuring typical Ligurian dishes. Here is a brief synopsis of some of the restaurants we enjoyed during our stay.

Trattoria Da Dede

The front of this restaurant is nothing actually to look at, but as is often the case in Italy, looks can be deceiving and for our first lunch here it proved to be true.

Trattoria Da Dede is an inconspicuous store on a back street called via Santa Benedetto with no real call to fame. They serve everyday, workerman food here, the kind momma cooks for a very good price. While there, we were the only non-local; most of the clientele were on their lunch break. Ordering is easy, select any one of four main dishes the restaurant offers for lunch and wash it down with water and a caffe and you are all done. Eat like a Ligurian, stop here and enjoy the food!

Ristorante Pechino

Pining for something less Italian and more cosmopolitan, it was time for our Chinese food break. Restaurant Pechino on the Lungomare Vittorio Veneto fit the bill nicely. Ordering our usual Spring Rolls, Wonton Soup, Rice with Vegetables, Chicken with Vegetables or whatever else we might see, it was out and served with a smile.

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La Trattoria

Along the via Montebello, sits La Trattoria with an almost invisible store front. In fact, if you weren’t actually looking for it with purpose, like Patti and I, you probably would miss it.

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La Trattoria has an amazing menu and the chef apparently to back it up. You will find unusual and eclectic Ligurian tastes here, as well as a very good wine and dessert selection.

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La Boccia Ristorante

An enoteca (wine bar) and restaurant, La Boccia Tuscany Wine & Food provides ample sustinence with an amazing wine list. Located on via Venezia, you can select any wine for under 25€, have the bottle uncorked and taste the wine, while only paying by the glass. The fare, as I have already suggested is rather ordinary, but the wines and aperitivi are first rate. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed every tasty minute.

Of course we ate at other places, but none of those felt as exceptional as the ones above. If you are ever in Rapallo, we hope you will take the opportunity to visit one. Until then, ciao for now..!

Rapallo – Tiny, But Rich In History

Part One

The tiny seaside city of Rapallo is remarkable in many ways, as a port, as a main stop on the Pisa to Genova train line, as a city that has many ancient Roman, Etruscan and other historical features, and as a tourist point of interest; where one can just relax and enjoy the sun while eating great Ligurian food.

We began our stay checking into the four star Hotel Astoria Rapallo along via Antonio Gramsci. Built in 1903 in the Victorian Liberty Villa style, it is well taken care of by its current owner and management couple, who cheerfully greeted us as we entered. The views from our seaside room were what we imagined, as were the cooling breezes that ran through the room when we open all the windows, clean and refreshing. Even though they come equipped with air-conditioning, it is always nice to open the windows to get fresh air, especially in the early morning.

Rapallo is an active port for fishing, leisure and travel (via ferry or other means to destinations along the coast.) Unfortunately, while we were here, the ferries were still not running, due to the restrictions in place on account of the virus. So, we were not able to visit Portofino as we had hoped.

The Historic Center

As with all older cities of any size, Rapallo has a historic center, albeit small, which one can wander through to shop or to catch a meal.

Basilica of Saints Gervasius and Protasius

Some of the main attractions here include the church, or Basilica of the Saints Gervasius and Protasius.

The Porta della Saline

The only remaining gate of the ancient city walls is the Port of Salt, or Porta della Saline.

Porta della Saline

There are of course plenty of narrow and inviting streets in the old town that suck you in with their capillory action.

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Hannibals Bridge

Built in the second century, the ancient bridge from the Roman period, called Hannibals Bridge, can still be seen and enjoyed. Though cordoned off to travel, it still is an imposing and impressive sign of the Roman’s architectural and construction abilities.

The Castle Of Rapallo

Anyone looking out into the gulf will sooner or later notice the small castle sitting off the coast directly in front of the traffic circle (or roundabout), Piazza Giovanni Battista Pastene. This is the Castello di Rapallo, an old castle built in the 1550s in response to attacks by Turkish pirates. It is still in fairly good shape, but while we where there, temporarily closed due to Covid restrictions and construction in the vicinity.

The Brotherhood Of White

A Brotherhood of White, also known as the Great White Brotherhood and the Universal White Brotherhood, has a sect or presence in the city. In a part of the historic center, a structure exists that apparently houses this old eighteenth century order of people of enlightenment. The signs are there, if you are looking for them.

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Sign Of The Great White Brotherhood

The Gulf Of Tigullio

The Gulf of Tigullio is very large and extends from Portofino to Zoagli. It is always nice to walk along the Port of Rapallo in the early morning or in the evenings to enjoy the fresh air and beauty of the gulf itself. There are many inlets, bays and coves that one can explore along the way, some with road access, others a bit more difficult.

The Gulf Of Tigullio And The Ligurian Hills

Rapallo To Montallegro

The cable car from Rapallo to Montallegro and back is a treat. Though some might consider it an expensive treat, at 8€ a piece for a round trip; we thought it a fair deal. The views in and of themselves are more than worth the ticket price. There is not only a basilica waiting for you at the top, but also a restaurant with amazing views of the city and surrounding countryside.

 

Sanctuary Of Our Lady Of Montallegro

The sanctuary at the top of the hill in Montallegro is actually a basilica. Called the Basilica and Sanctuary of our Lady of Montallegro, it is both impressive and still functioning.

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Casa del Pellegrino

There is a cafe, bar and restaurant some ten or so minutes walk from behind the basilica. It is not only the start of one of the hiking trails that wanders through the area, but also provides an excellent view of the gulf and port of Rapallo. Since the cable car runs every thirty minutes or so, we took advantage and spent an hour here, taking on refreshment and admiring the view while enjoying the cool air coming up the mountain slopes.

Cable Car From Montallegro Back To Rapallo

Here are a few videos of our trip back down the mountain. If you are ever there, a word of caution for those with any fear of heights, you will be suspended very high in the air. It may not be for everyone, unless you maintain your look inside the car on ascent and likewise on the return.

Part One

Part Two

La Spezia – Harbors No Secrets

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Lungomare

A rather active port on the Ligurian Coast is the port of La Spezia. Not typically known as a tourist hot-spot, it is noted for several museums, churches and other sites worth seeing, if you visit. With one day in our itinerary to investigate, I came away with the opinion that if you have other things in your own itinerary to see, then it’s probably not worth a stop. There are plenty of old city centers around and this one was rather unremarkable.

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As can be noted by some of the photographs above, this port is heavily used by the Italian Cruise Lines and Navy. While here, we noticed several cruise ships moored, since their use is restricted during the virus outbreak. The port is also heavily used by commercial fisherman, as well as leisure craft. The city is very walkable, especially down by the water where they have a very excellent Lungomare.

That is all for La Spezia, our next stop is Rapallo, about thirty minutes North of Moneglia, via Sestri Levante. Another port town, but more for leisure craft and very close to Santa Margherita. Our Ligurian journey continues…

Chiavari – Where The Waves Pound

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Statue Of Vittorio Emanuele II

On the beautiful Ligurian coast, about a half an hour train ride from Moneglia, is  the rather large town Chiavari. This is a port town with a large number of boats, which it is probably more noted for, than its beaches.

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The Lungomare And Its Protective Jetties

If you meander your way to the lungomare from the train station and sit on any one of the many benches the city has provided, you will hear the surf pounding the rocks. After a short while, you will probably wonder if this would be a city at all without the large rocks and jetties that protect it, and you would probably be right. This city directly faces the Ligurian and Mediterranean Seas and takes their full force when they are angry.

A City Of Porticos

Like Turin, this medieval city was built in the 13th century and contains many portico, upon which buildings were erected and the residents below were protected from the elements. It has a population of roughly twenty-five to twenty-eight thousand residents, depending on what figures you trust.

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The city also sports a very nice piazza where the daily market is held. We had gotten there just after they had finished for the day and were in the process of cleaning up.

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The Market Of Piazza Mazzini

The city is repleat with stores and high-end shops in the historic part, so there is plenty of places to window-shop or even take in the typical afternoon caffe. Here are a few last views of this city that we took along the way while strolling its streets with our guest for the day.

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In order to get to Chiavari from Moneglia, a change of trains is in order in Sestri Levante. Though we had a short wait, around twelve minutes, it did not lengthen our trip too much. Therefore, this city currently is part of the Savona to Sestri Levante trainline, which may change in the future if more travel restrictions are lifted, so always go to the TrennItalia website for up to date information.

Pizzeria Il Ciocco

Probably one of the best surprises of the day was the Pizzeria Il Ciocco. After a larger than normal lunch in Chiavari, we were looking for something quick, and on the lighter side. We decided on pizza and found this little place a hundred meters down the street.

The owner’s son speaks very good English, so we were able to order easily and learn it is a true mom-and-pop shop. Since 1997 they have been making pizza in Moneglia the old fashion way, using the traditional wood fire method and secret recipies. What other way is there to make real pizza in Italy?

All I can say is it was fantastic. This place is high on our list to revisit, and I am not even a real pizza fan. I am afraid if my son Dana comes in here he may never leave.

Lemeglio – A Bird’s Eye View

For the curious, and approximately a two kilometer walk from the heart of Moneglia, is the small hamlet or cluster of homes called Lemeglio. This tiny little place provides yet another wonderful, bird’s eye view of the town and coastline below, albeit from the opposite direction as before.

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The View Of Moneglia And Its Bay From Lemeglia

 

Getting There

There are several way to get to Lemeglio from Moneglia, but taking a car or the bus service (which of course is provided because of the locals), would probably not be worth it, since there is so little to see along the way or in Lemeglia. There is very little to no parking and turning around looked like a nightmare to us. We chose to hike, using the well marked trail that the area has provided and made a short morning of it.

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Leaving Moneglia

After a quick breakfast, we headed out along the via Vittorio Emanuele going South. Taking a few turns through town here and there and crossing the stream, we left town and quickly found the trailhead.

From here the paved path and stairs ascend rapidly, lines on one side with the railroad tracks to start and a fence on the other.

The rest of the trip is just a series of the same, stairs interspersed with walking on roadway, until you get up to Lemeglio itself and the overlook it provides.

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Chiesa Santa Maria Assunta

The church sits atop this hill surrounded by a small cluster of houses, some well maintained, others less so. It is a church built in the typical style for Liguria, both in shape and use of stone. There is what appears to be a small, abandoned building just to its left that is decorated with a statue of the Holy Mary. If you are tall enough to look inside, you will notice a very old olive press that is falling apart. Perhaps it is where the locals used to come to press their olives each harvest season?

Below is the last photograph you can enjoy for this spot, from here the trail ascends even more, into the trees and then over the ridge. It would be the natural route to take if one were headed South and to Cinque Terre.

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The Ligurian Sea

The trip down is somewhat faster and less eventfull, but we were happy we took the time to explore above Moneglia once again. If only just to get out and stretch the legs and breathe in fresh air without a mask!

Ristorante Nenne

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This small, innocuous little restaurant can be passed by anyone walking on the via Vittorio Emanuele easily without notice, especially if they are not paying attention. Nenne is without a doubt, an actual hole in the wall. And though it has not been in business long, it has a great seafood menu and very good prices.

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So ends yet another day in the small, coastal town of Moneglia. I hope you enjoyed this entry, tomorrow more and our adventure to Chiavari.

 

Moneglia – Strolling The Lungomare

Having the benefit of staying in such a small town for a little more than a week, gives one the flexibility of being bored and looking for things to do. Of course I say this from the perspective of retirement and our slow travel mentality, where it’s all about kicking back, taking it easy and having the time to actually get to know a place, instead of driving through it to claim, “I was there!”

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The Lungomare Dante Alighieri – Moneglia

The Leisurely Stroll

An often overlooked, under-used method of relaxation, that I might add is rarely used in the States, is the stroll. In fact, the lack of use of this word in the common venacular there, or everyday speech, testifies to the American’s reluctance to actually taking one. Americans are often too busy and too self-absorbed to consider a nice, long, uncomplicated relaxing walk. If you stay long enough in Moneglia, or probably any city or coastal town in Italy, you should take one of these, they can be mind clearing experiences. The Germans have an excellent word for it, schlendern, to stroll or amble and when correctly pronounced, actually sounds relaxing. The Italians however, probably invented it with their passeggiata, which actually means a bit more, but is still actively practiced today.

Our stroll along the Lungomare was relaxing in the extreme. The surf, which was fairly rough at the time, was pounding the coast. Where the beach was lined with stones, one could hear the strange and unusual sound of the rocks clacking against one another as the water washed over them and drew them back toward the sea. Add to that the perfect temperature, somewhere in the low seventies, and a stiff breeze, and you have all the ingredients for a great walk.

The Tower Of Villafranche

Along the Lungomare is the Tower or Fortress of Villafranche, or what is called today the Parco Castello di Villafranca, a broken down remnant of an old fort that is no longer used nor kept up. It has signs that it had been taken cared for until recently. Now it just appears to be a memory destined to fall back into the hillside from which it arose.

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There are still some interesting things inside to see, nooks and crannies, here and there. The outside is more or less a maze of unmaintained stairs and paths. A good place for a relaxing picnic lunch, to read a book or just relax and unwind; there are some benches where one can sit and enjoy the sound of the waves and the horizon.

Ristorante Bistrot Julia

The restaurant Bistrot Julia is a small, unassuming place that is not much on menu, but definitely big on taste. This place, during normal times, would be crowded, so get reservations if you are planning a visit, we just happen to be fortunate enough to enjoy it in a more relaxed state.

Based on a rating we found to be rather high on the internet, we decided to give it a try. Having not had a very good steak in a while, we were both surprised to find a Tomahawk Steak for two on the menu. It took some discussion with our waitress and all of two seconds to make up my mind what I wanted to order. After a very short negotiation with Patti, our wine and steak were ordered.

Needless to say, when a chef does not give you a choice on how you want your meat cooked and it comes out looking like this, you know you are in for a good meal. Paired with a very good local Nebbiolo, the steak and potatoes went down with very little argument. Our appetizers were Baccala on crushed vinegared olives, also very good. We would both highly recommend a stop at Bistrot Julia, if you are ever in Moneglia. First rate food at a fairly good price. They also will dispense wine from any unopened bottle of wine they have, as long as it’s under 24€. A fine enticement to get you to try new wines not necessarily served by the glass and you only pay for what you drink. With our steak, priced at 6€/hg (hectogram), and coming in around one kilo we walked out with a 97€ bill. Some might say that a bit steep, but I have paid far more in the States for steak and dinners for two as a whole and they were no where near as good. Enjoy!