Moneglia – Taking The High Path

We have a saying in our country, though no longer often heeded by some of our leaders, of taking the high path or road. In the comune of Moneglia you can actually do this, though not figuratively speaking; but by actually lacing up your hiking shoes and climbing the hills that gird this fine town. Not only will you feel better than those that don’t take the high road, you will also have a better view!

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XX And -. Our Chosen Paths

Planning And The Initial Ascent

Before any ascent, a quick visit to the local tourist information center should be your first stop. There they can inform you on the best way to enter the maze of paths and hiking trails that criss-cross the hills and country-side above the town; they can also offer you a handy map for your initial planning and your pocket along the way.

To find the entry point to the Northwest you can more or less follow via Caveri that takes you to the train station, then a short way on via Ammiraglio Bollo. On the left hand side of that road, there will be a concrete staircase that ascends from the sidewalk. A little further walk from there will bring you to the sign shown above. Again, it is best by now to have a very good idea of where you are headed, since not all signs along the way are as clear as the one above. However, the trails are well marked with the indicators assigned to them, so as long as you know where you are headed, you should have no difficulties.

The initial ascent has some stairs and long, inclined walkways that are fairly easy to navigate. After this, the ascent only gets steeper, though it is all on pavement and semi-improved roadway. It’s not too long before you notice that you are making real progress getting above the town.

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A View Of The Bay At The Very Start

Hiking The Cresta Di Comunaglia

After this, you make a quick turn off the pavement and into what looks to most as a gully. It almost looks like something you shouldn’t hike.

Once the path turns off the roadway it is rather steep and a bit treacherous. Though you could use sneakers, hiking shoes are strongly advised. The path when it starts out is essentially a stream bed that probably gets full rather quickly during heavy thunderstorms and downpours.

After some time, and about two to three hundred meters of elevation, the path levels out somewhat. It is still important to pay close attention, there are many hazards, loose rocks and roots along the path.

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Walking along the Crest of Comunaglia is far less difficult than the climb. There are a few areas where you must mind yourself, falling would prove very problematic. However, the views along the crest path are well worth the time and effort. To get to this point, it took us about one hour of good hiking, while drinking plenty of water every fifteen minutes or so. It was in the high seventies and we brought 75cl of water for each us, which was just about enough. I would recommend, if it is in the eighties or ninties, bring MORE, do not dehydrate, there is nothing around for you to get more!

The entire hike took us a little over two hours, up and back. We had to pace ourselves somewhat, since sitting in Turin for three months has not improved our stamina at all. But if you are into hiking there are tons of trails around, you can even trek from one town to the next. Just plan for the weather and bring plenty of water.

Piccolo Hotel Restaurant

The restaurant of the Piccolo hotel is very nice and due to the current restrictions and low attendance here, we were very well served. Good thing too, after a good day hiking, we were both starving.

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The traditional spaghetti in clam sauce is always a hit with me, served with Piccadilly tomatoes, clams and oil, it is a great starter. I also ordered the Cima alla Genovese, which is made with peas, ceci beans and other vegetables, along with a hard boiled egg, rolled in thinly pounded veal. It must be refrigerated, sliced and served cold. It was not only unusual, but along with slightly vinegared carrots, surprisingly good; a very Genovese dish. Patti had grilled Octopus with a cream made from garbanzo beans (ceci in Italy). I tasted that too and it was amazing. Taking into account the quality of the food and service, a very good restaurant. The end to a great day in Moneglia. Until next time, ciao!

Moneglia – A Strip Of Sandy Delight

Amid the current restrictions and travel new requirements, we have finally decided to venture out and take a long needed break from our lock-down. Craving sun and some nourishment for the soul, we headed south again to the coast, in the hopes of some solitude and reinvigoration.

Moneglia

A three hour and some minutes travel from our home here, is the tiny little town and comune of Moneglia. Situated in a bay on the Ligurian coast, it is a small strip of sand that most travelers would tend to overlook, but it is actually quite delightful.

Initial Reflections

The town itself does not offer many attractions like museums or other diversions, but provides all the essentials for a comfortable holiday. Though there are a several hotels to choose from, we decided to stay at the three star Piccolo Hotel.

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The Piccolo Hotel

The accomodations here are very comfortable and are currently going for a very affordable price, so no complaints. Though one hates to see anyone enduring hardship because of the current situation, one side effect is, it is a very enjoyable time to travel, you definitely will not find many crowds, if at all, anywhere.

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Ristorante Tender

This is a very good restaurant with an excellent wine list and is fair to moderately priced, depending on your appetite. Patti and I had a wonderful meal here on our first evening, which of course lasted the customary two hours. Though quiet, there were a handful of couples and locals that showed up, other than that, it was a very peaceful Monday evening enjoying the coast.

We paired the above with a fine, dry Italian white wine, water, the customary after dinner café and Sambuca. Unfortunately I didn’t take a photograph of the wine and cannot remember it’s label off the top of my head, but it was a Vermentino. In my opinion, this style of wine is totally underrated. It is usually a clear off-white, crisp and dry wine, offering just a hint of fruit to compliment what ever you are eating. It goes very well with salads and seafood. Patti and I discovered this in Turin and usually have it with our lunches.

If you are looking for your fish fix, the Ligurian coast is the place to be. Most restaurants here have excellent menus based on products from the sea. There is also a very nice fish monger, or fish store, just a stone’s throw away from our hotel on via Vittorio Emanuele, if you are looking for something to take home and cook.

Last but not least, a shot of Moneglia Bay and the Ligurian Sea at dusk.

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Moneglia Bay And The Ligurian Sea

 

Pranzo Italian Style

In Italian the word for lunch is pranzo, and with no surprise, it has its etymological roots in Latin. If you walk the streets of many small towns and cities in Italy around noontime, most restaurants will have a Pranzo Menu, outlining their lunch deal for the day. It appears customary that most Italians take lunch out, giving them yet another reason to socialize and catch up on the news and opinions of the day. It is considered to be the most important meal of the day. So, on any given day most restaurants here will be a-buzz with eating and talk, as the local population descend to get their midday meal and earful.

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A Beautiful Spring Day In Piazza San Carlo – Torino – Virally Quiet Day

Pranzo a Torino

Since things have started to open up again, we thought a short blog on some of the restaurants we have visited, just walking the streets of Turin, was in order. They are arranged in order of price, service and quality of food, from best to better.

Ristoranti

Gastronomia Ferrero

This is actually a Ristogastronomia, or what we would call a Deli-Eatery. It is a  fusion of a Delicatessen and restaurant, which also serves food for take out. Gastronomia Ferrero is located on Via Antonio Bertola, Turin and is an easy walk from the city center. To eat in, you just choose from the many fine things they have on display for a hot meal, or choose something from the deli if you are looking for something like a sandwich or panini. They have many pre-cooked foods to choose and the menu appears to change often, so going back does not necessarily mean you will get bored with the same old selection.

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All plates are made of paper and totally recyclable. Though, if you order something more demanding like we did, they will bring out silverware so you can manage meat or other entries that stronger tools. The food is very good and the pricing a bit more on the moderate side, but well worth the visit. And yes, if you eat in, you select your food and they serve you, along with what ever beverage you had in mind.

Our meal of rabbit and a side with wine, water, coffee and an apértif, ran a bit on the high side and came to 42€. Highly recommended nonetheless.

Pizzeria La Fila

La Fila pizzeria is located just down the road from the previous restaurant at Via Principe Amedeo, 3/A, Turin; and yes, make no mistake, it is the same street. Like some southern states in the US, streets often change their names across intersections, so the traveler should be aware!

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La Fila Ristorante

This restaurant serves traditional pizzeria fare, including pizza and other hot pasta and spaghetti dishes. It has a good wine list and there are salads and desserts one can choose to round out your meal. Though I didn’t feel like taking a photograph of my Lasagna, since I was starving, so I only took one of my salad and my wife’s Spaghetti alla Vongole.

Our meals of salad and pasta with wine, water, coffee and an apértif, was more moderatly priced and came to about 31€ and change. Very good food and service at a good price; a recommended stop if looking for open air, piazza eating.

Da Peppino

This restaurant is right on the border of the old historic district and offers a fixed price lunch at very reasonable prices. So, if you are working on a very fixed budget, this could be one of your stops, while out shopping or traveling the city center or historic district. As you will see, we ate a lot of food, along with wine upgrade (a glass is included in the lunch menu), dessert, coffee and an apértif, and it all came to just 24€! Two can eat here easily for less than 20€.

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Da Peppino is located on Via dei Mercanti 7, Turin and does not appear to have an issue attracting people to lunch, so you may want to be prompt. If you are more of the planning type, they do accept reservations.

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We really enjoyed this restaurant, though the pigeons at times were a bit annoying. The service was very good and the food was simple, but very tasty. And one cannot complain about the price, enjoy!

City Life with a Virus – Spring in Turin

Sorry that it has been a while since our last update, but life has been rather restrictive and boring for the past couple of months, in fact since March and we think, rightly so. Though we could have continued to write entries about mundane, everyday things, we chose not to; since we wanted to keep our site more about our travels, than about extraneous matters. With the exception of writing about our former brief, quixotic brush traveling through the primordial pandemic soup, we offer the following brief update on the virus and life trying to return to normal in Northern Italy.

Still Remains – Turin

When we left last November to return to the States, Turin was still a bustling, energetic city, full of promise and as they say, “La Dolce Vita“. While we were gone, the Pest, as one can say, struck. It has ravaged this poor country, leaving noone unaffected. Like in the States, you probably know someone who has been touched by this trajedy. I know we have.

Though we knew, before we left, there was a serious outbreak, we pushed ahead, while taking the proper precautions, ever eager to return to our apartment and hopeful that it was not as bad as everyone was saying. However, upon our return, we were welcomed by a silent city, a quiet Turin, where only still remained.

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Via Plana – From Our Apartment Windows

Not only were there few people on the streets, there were no cars, no conveyances of any kind. We left a city and returned to a morgue, an apocalyptic version of what we had left. Even though the church bells still rang, it was not a call to the faithful, but just one of keeping time, or worse yet, for the dead. All the churches had been closed. The streets that border our apartment building, which once bursted with activity, were now silent.

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Excellent Website Showing Latest Details On The Virus

We quickly learned not to venture out unless absolutely necessary. We monitored Italian websites for information from the government, as well as the latest numbers from the hospitals, which I may add were in a day-to-day struggle to maintain care. It remained this way for more than two months, as the virus took its toll among the denizens of northern Italy. We were inside so much, my wife and I remarked that we couldn’t believe there were leaves on the trees already, when we finally ventured out for a time.

Virus Precautions

Through quarantine measures and effective government, the numbers slowly started to get better in late March. And not until recently, the numbers of new cases have improved enough that Italy started taking actions to re-open its economy. But the government knew that this had to be done like opening a bottle of fine Barolo, slowly and with purpose, not like Prosecco with wild abandon. In any case, they also knew it was important to honor the victims, as well as those who worked on the front lines, the doctors, the nurses and all of the hospitals with an aerial salute, or flyover. They lost a lot of their own keeping everyone safe as possible and most alive.

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The Frecce Tricolori – 313th Acrobatic Training Group of the Italian Airforce

Turin, along with the rest of Italy, has adopted a very rigorous staged redeployment of its re-awakening. I must admit, the procedures, at all levels of government, appear to have been well thought out and targeted for each particular region, and in some instances municipalities. Each particular type of business has been given clear requirements for re-opening and accepting clientele. Far be it for me to say that some of these requirements are over the top or not needed, but we are dealing with a virus that has devastated parts of this country. So, we wear the masks that have been provided to us when and where we are told, perhaps more for our safety than others.

Spring in Turin

On a lighter note, the Spring here has been, I would think, more normal or average. It had its rainy period followed by periods of bright blue sky and cool, crisp air. It has remained so up until now. Unlike last year, which was rather warm early on, this year appears to be tracking closer to normal weather patterns. Even today, the early morning brings temperatures in the high 50’s to low 60’s, with the later day and evening climbing to around 75, with low humidity. Not bad for a comfortable late Spring. It is also amazing how great the air is here has been without all the traffic. And don’t think the Italians haven’t noticed either, in fact, there are rumors of new regulations brewing to stem the nasty air that is so prevalent in the Po River valley. One can only hope. Teslas for everyone!!!

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The Dora Riparia – University of Turin in the background

The Dora Riparia is flowing vigorously as usual, due to the seasonal Alpine runoff. It’s noted for its grey waters, probably due to the grey rocks and limestone that it dissolves as the water makes its way down to Turin. Viewed up close one would swear it’s liquid concrete, but no, it’s just muddy grey water.

In contrast, as can be seen by the waters of the River Po above, it too has been flowing forcefully for some time. Partly due to a lot of snow and rain that the mountain areas received during the March and April timeframes. Though not running above flood stage, it was getting close to it.

Conclusion

So we hope to be traveling soon, we have actually booked places for mid June and hope to be venturing around locally in the coming weeks. So, be patient and please stay tuned, we look forward to some new adventures soon!

Coronavirus And Our Return To Turin

After a lengthy and very nice holiday vacation in the States, we have finally returned to Turin. It was not without its drama however, no thanks to the Corona virus.

Into the Unknown

Having made our plans to return months ago, we continually monitored the situation unfolding with the virus hoping to mitigate any surprises. Never under-estimate the best laid plans of mice and men. The day before we were to leave, it finally really hit us with an email  from Delta informing us that our flight had been cancelled. We had three choices, rebook for an immediate opening to get us to Milan, delay our trip and rebook for sometime in May, or get a refund. We thought about our options for a while, a short while.

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On the one hand, we could try, at least before its too late. If we get stuck somewhere we could hopefully make other plans to get to our destination. We already had a trip to Naples booked and coming up soon, we wanted to keep those plans, if at all possible. We also had to take into account our growing boredom sitting around Cary, while paying for an apartment in Turin.

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Tickets For Two – New York to Milan

On the other, there was the virus and all the complications entailed with it. We even considered it might be safer in the U.S., especially if there were a severe breakout and one of us were to get sick. Keeping all this in mind, we threw caution to the wind, bought a stock of travel wipes, rebooked through JFK and Paris to Milan, and headed into the unknown.

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Charles de Gaulle Airport

We were rebooked through AirFrance from JFK to Paris. Though the flight was packed, it was totally without incident, with the exception of the flight attendant ramming a cart into my knee halfway through the night. The only unfortunate thing was, the flight was the midnight red-eye which totally screws with my circadian rhythm. The good news was I never hear one cough or sneeze while I was awake, perhaps the really sick ones stayed home!?

Onto Milan

Going to Milan was totally different. This was the first indication, that the attention to the virus was having real affects, people are scared and are really staying home! The plane from Paris Charles de Gaulle to Milan was more or less empty.

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AirFrance from Paris to Milan – Empty!

Luckily once we arrived in Milan most train services were still operating. The schools are of course closed for a few weeks and there is some reduction in long haul routes, but for the most parts you can still book and travel to most places.

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The Alps are still extraordinary

Milan Hotels and Streets Vacant

We arrived in Milan around 7 P.M. From the main train station, we had a quick walk over to the Just Hotel, our accomodations for the night, only to find that it was closed! They did however, have a sign informing us that the Glam Hotel across the street had taken all of their reservations. It was while we were reading this sign, that two unknowns tried to pickpocket us. However, since we were wearing long coats and had burglar-proof stuff on, they had a big problem. So, they sprayed our pants with a dark brown colored paint and said we had gotten something on ourselves, probably from a bird.  Herman_PurseSnatchingThey shot it in such a way so you could not clean it without taking off your coat, which is what they want you to do. Don’t fall for this one! It is, or course, only meant to distract you. There are of course no birds out at that hour, especially in a city. They were just trying to distract us. Well to make a short story even shorter, we quickly realized what was going on and quickly wandered our way across the street, avoiding all contact with them. They would of course not enter the hotel, confirming the ruse.

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Nico Quick Bite – Good Pizza – But Tonigh, Empty!

After a quick clean up we headed out across the street for a quick bite to eat. Milan is empty. When I say empty, I mean empty. There are very few people around and definitely NO TOURISTS.

Milano Centrale – Back To Turin

Our biggest surprise was the next morning at Milano Centrale, the always bustling train station with hordes of tourist, vacationers and commuters, as a heart pumps its blood to all its organs, totally anemic.

The trains still run, but there are frankly few on board, including ourselves. We left on the 10:30 A.M. Italo (originating from Naples) from Milan to Turin and we were the only ones in our carrage. Naturally, with all that’s going on, that can be a good thing.

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Italo 9908 to Turin – Just as fast but a bit lighter

We finally arrived in Turin around 11:30 to finds things, more or less, the same. Though the were plenty of children around due to school being suspended, people were still going about their work. It is good to be back.

Autumn in Turin

As an adjunct to writing about places we have visited, I thought it a good time to provide some quick thoughts on my daily experiences living here. Just random thoughts that come to mind wandering around or just opening the window in the morning. A minor part of anyone’s stay, and often overlooked, are especially the smells that one encounters, both good and bad.

Chocolate Festival

Yesterday we visited Turin’s Yearly Autumn Chocolate Festival. This event takes up an entire piazza and a fair length of via Roma. There is not only chocolate here, but other edible treats from all over Italy and nearby European Countries (e.g. Austria). Though the sites are amazing, the myriad stacks of chocolate bars, bark and balls, the smells are to die for.

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From white, dark and milk chocolate, to marzipan and other delicacies; one quickly starts running short of change and hands to carry all of the boxes and bags. After someone experiences this, and then throws in the smells of cooked chestnuts and coffee on the street, a strong association is built between these, the beautiful Autumn weather, and Turin.

The Po River

This Autumn the Po river is still swollen from a lot a rain the surrounding area received during October. This is a good thing too since this week the city was also hosting the Silver Skiff Regatta, or boat race. There are several boating clubs along the Po and you can often see the clubs practicing and exercising during the week.

The river itself is very nice and has parks lining it on both of Turin’s southern banks, so you can take a nice long walk in the leaves while hardly noticing any buildings at all. Here you get that leafy smell that everyone associates with Autumn.

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An abundance of weeds

The other thing one notices in Turin, and for the most part Italy as a whole, they do NOT use herbicides on vegetation. In some cases vegetation is actually left to grow unimpeded, leading to the thought, where did the U.S. go wrong? Why do we poison everything? What is so bad about weeds or bugs for that matter? In the photograph above an American would think, “Get out the RoundUp”, an Italian, “What can I eat?”

From An Apartment Window

From our apartment you can gauge the pulse of the city just by smelling the air. As for any typical city the quality of the air is dominated by the lack or abundance of traffic. But there are also other factors as well.

In the early morning, prior to rush hour, the clean mountain air has rushed down during the night and early morning hours to provide a respite of fresh air. If you open your shutters and windows early enough, you get to experience this pleasure. Otherwise, you are met in the morning with the pungent, often times, noxious smell of diesel and the morning rush hour. The street our windows open to, is an active bypass for those trying to hop through the piazza to the North and avoid the ZTL (zone of limited traffic), a short stretch of street that is directly in the front of our building. This last for a few hours and then one gets a treat for what ever lingers in this corridor of buildings.

Later, after the evening rush hour, you are witness to one of the few puzzling things about Turin, the smell of burning wood. As though hundreds or fireplaces have been lit at once, it wafts in around six or seven o’clock. This is not specifically for heat, but rather for the hundreds of brick ovens that have to be fired up burning oak and other woods, to cook evening pizza and focaccia. It is one of the oddities living here and one of my true favorites. Having been brought up with a fireplace my whole life, it is a booster shot for my soul.

Such are the remarkable things that anyone can enjoy when living or even visiting here, the information and experiences are out there, you just have to let them in.

Scotland – Glasgow

Glasgow seems a nice enough city, but it appears to have a jumble of architectural styles, like the city planners are convinced the city belongs to the future and not the past. This is evident in many structures and facilities, including the universities that exist within the city, they are very modern in appearance. However, this causes a clash with any older, existing structures that are clearly from the eighteenth and nineteeth centuries.

The Glasgow Central Train Station however has, in my opinion, been successful in melding the old with the new.

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Otherwise, Glasgow is like many other European cities, with a central pedestrian street for shopping, surrounded by other ancillary avenues and alleys for other mom and pop shops to sell their wares.

The Glasgow Cathedral

The cathedral is amazing, it is very long inside, in two sections, one with pews the other without, and free to the public.

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The Glasgow Cathedral

Oddly enough,  for no admission is actually has quite a lot to see. There is another section behind what we normally be the choir screen that contains additional relics and pieces that have been collection from former churchs on this site, some due to earlier renovations.

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The Glasgow Necropolis

As its name would imply, there is a very large cemetery behind the cathedral, sitting atop a hill overlooking Glasgow.

Though not much to see, unless of course you majored in history, specifically Glasgow history, it is a nice place to enjoy a quiet walk on an autumn day.

Glasgow Botanical Gardens

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Tickets for Two – Subway to Botanical Gardens

The gardens can be reached from the city center by taking the underground or subway. By taking the inner ring you will exit about two blocks from the gardens. However, if you take the outer ring, not to worry, the subway makes a complete circle, so just by staying on you will enventually reach your destingation.

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Here is a short slide show of what can be seen, without captions.

 

 

Scotland – Aberdeen

From Inverness we headed to Aberdeen, which is on the eastern coast of the country. Along the way we took a minor detour to visit one of the famous distilleries in the area, The Mcallan.

The Mcallan distillery visitor center has been designed by a well-known architect and completely modernized. Though the building itself blends well with the country-side, the walkway seems a bit odd, made out of shiny marble instead of perhaps a nice sandstone to match better. I suppose they we going for the rich look in the end, instead of a more environmental one.

Aberdeen

The town itself is rather unremarkable, being noted for its grey granite appearance, it’s no wonder it mixes well with the cold, damp weather and Scotch whiskey.

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There are exceptions of course, some of the side streets are rather nice to stroll down, although you will never get that quaint, old, medieval look and feel.

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Our Hotel – The Mariner
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The Mariner Restaurant

We did not venture far to eat, except for lunch, since town was a good fifteen to twenty-minute walk from our hotel. So, we ate our lunches out and each night at the hotel, which offered a good mix of fare. All in all, the accommodations were more than adequate, with only some minor inconveniences (e.g. no elevator, but it was only one floor). They do provide a generous parking lot and free parking.

The Dunnottar Castle

Unfortunately, I have to say, the high point of our trip to Aberdeen was on our departure and visit to the Castle of Dunnottar. Please enjoy the un-captioned slide show below of our visit there.

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I will not say much else about it, other than the views are quite stunning, if you happen to have good weather. You are free to walk the grounds and there are hiking trails nearby and into the town of Stonehaven. The castle itself is worth the 7£ entry fee, since it is quite extensive and very well-kept.

And to top it off, a small video of the tempestuous North Sea.

Scotland – Inverness

A three-hour drive from Edinburgh will bring you through the center of Scotland and The Highlands, here at the end of Loch Ness sits Inverness.

Inverness – Ness Bridge

Inverness

The city itself in October has a strange feel about it, reminiscent of an upstate New York town, think Hudson or Catskill. Though statistics say otherwise, one would think it in decline, or an area that perhaps saw better times.

The people on the other hand are very friendly and seem very comfortable with tourists.

Loch Ness

In order to see the Loch Ness from Inverness you have to travel 15 to 30 minutes southwest on the A82. Along this road there are several places to stop and take photographs.

Loch Ness – Erick

A bit further on you will find the lazy hamlet of Drumnadrochit and the Castle Urquhart sitting on the lake.

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To enter the castle grounds it cost us around 10£ per person, with a senior discount (60+). A fair price for the ruins and direct access to the lake. And yes, there be NO monsters here!

Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition

This is an exhibit on the scientific evidence and history around the Loch Ness monster. Well worth the money, I found it informative and fairly well done. You can even read all the newspaper articles about the hoax or in some cases what may be called a misunderstanding of what people think they saw.