A rather active port on the Ligurian Coast is the port of La Spezia. Not typically known as a tourist hot-spot, it is noted for several museums, churches and other sites worth seeing, if you visit. With one day in our itinerary to investigate, I came away with the opinion that if you have other things in your own itinerary to see, then it’s probably not worth a stop. There are plenty of old city centers around and this one was rather unremarkable.
Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale (N.S della Salute)
Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale (N.S della Salute)
Corso Cavour
Corso Cavour
Portico In The City
Lungomare
Ponte Thaon di Revel
Views From Ponte Thaon di Revel
Views From Ponte Thaon di Revel
Views From Ponte Thaon di Revel
Views From Ponte Thaon di Revel
Lungomare
Castello San Giorgio
Castello San Giorgio
View Of The Bay From Castello San Giorgio
Castello San Giorgio
Castello San Giorgio
Ascensore San Giorgio
View From Castello San Giorgio
As can be noted by some of the photographs above, this port is heavily used by the Italian Cruise Lines and Navy. While here, we noticed several cruise ships moored, since their use is restricted during the virus outbreak. The port is also heavily used by commercial fisherman, as well as leisure craft. The city is very walkable, especially down by the water where they have a very excellent Lungomare.
That is all for La Spezia, our next stop is Rapallo, about thirty minutes North of Moneglia, via Sestri Levante. Another port town, but more for leisure craft and very close to Santa Margherita. Our Ligurian journey continues…
On the beautiful Ligurian coast, about a half an hour train ride from Moneglia, is the rather large town Chiavari. This is a port town with a large number of boats, which it is probably more noted for, than its beaches.
The Lungomare And Its Protective Jetties
If you meander your way to the lungomare from the train station and sit on any one of the many benches the city has provided, you will hear the surf pounding the rocks. After a short while, you will probably wonder if this would be a city at all without the large rocks and jetties that protect it, and you would probably be right. This city directly faces the Ligurian and Mediterranean Seas and takes their full force when they are angry.
A City Of Porticos
Like Turin, this medieval city was built in the 13th century and contains many portico, upon which buildings were erected and the residents below were protected from the elements. It has a population of roughly twenty-five to twenty-eight thousand residents, depending on what figures you trust.
The city also sports a very nice piazza where the daily market is held. We had gotten there just after they had finished for the day and were in the process of cleaning up.
The Market Of Piazza Mazzini
The city is repleat with stores and high-end shops in the historic part, so there is plenty of places to window-shop or even take in the typical afternoon caffe. Here are a few last views of this city that we took along the way while strolling its streets with our guest for the day.
In order to get to Chiavari from Moneglia, a change of trains is in order in Sestri Levante. Though we had a short wait, around twelve minutes, it did not lengthen our trip too much. Therefore, this city currently is part of the Savona to Sestri Levante trainline, which may change in the future if more travel restrictions are lifted, so always go to the TrennItalia website for up to date information.
Pizzeria Il Ciocco
Probably one of the best surprises of the day was the Pizzeria Il Ciocco. After a larger than normal lunch in Chiavari, we were looking for something quick, and on the lighter side. We decided on pizza and found this little place a hundred meters down the street.
The Salumaria
The Four Greats – Expresso, Red Wine, Profiterole And Sambuca
The owner’s son speaks very good English, so we were able to order easily and learn it is a true mom-and-pop shop. Since 1997 they have been making pizza in Moneglia the old fashion way, using the traditional wood fire method and secret recipies. What other way is there to make real pizza in Italy?
Erick Waiting For His Pizza
Patti And The Open Hearth
All I can say is it was fantastic. This place is high on our list to revisit, and I am not even a real pizza fan. I am afraid if my son Dana comes in here he may never leave.
For the curious, and approximately a two kilometer walk from the heart of Moneglia, is the small hamlet or cluster of homes called Lemeglio. This tiny little place provides yet another wonderful, bird’s eye view of the town and coastline below, albeit from the opposite direction as before.
The View Of Moneglia And Its Bay From Lemeglia
Getting There
There are several way to get to Lemeglio from Moneglia, but taking a car or the bus service (which of course is provided because of the locals), would probably not be worth it, since there is so little to see along the way or in Lemeglia. There is very little to no parking and turning around looked like a nightmare to us. We chose to hike, using the well marked trail that the area has provided and made a short morning of it.
Leaving Moneglia
After a quick breakfast, we headed out along the via Vittorio Emanuele going South. Taking a few turns through town here and there and crossing the stream, we left town and quickly found the trailhead.
The Map Of The Trails
The Red Square – Lemeglia
From here the paved path and stairs ascend rapidly, lines on one side with the railroad tracks to start and a fence on the other.
The Start Of Our Climb – A Good View Of The Rail System
The rest of the trip is just a series of the same, stairs interspersed with walking on roadway, until you get up to Lemeglio itself and the overlook it provides.
Moneglia Bay
Patti Hiking The Trail
Moneglia Bay – An Overlook
Moneglia – Another View
The Coastline
The Church – Our Destination
Looks Pretty Steep To Me
Moneglia Bay
The Church Steeple From Afar
Olive Tree Groves Line The Roadways
Chiesa Santa Maria Assunta
The church sits atop this hill surrounded by a small cluster of houses, some well maintained, others less so. It is a church built in the typical style for Liguria, both in shape and use of stone. There is what appears to be a small, abandoned building just to its left that is decorated with a statue of the Holy Mary. If you are tall enough to look inside, you will notice a very old olive press that is falling apart. Perhaps it is where the locals used to come to press their olives each harvest season?
Santa Maria Assunta
Holy Mary – Building With Olive Press
Pavement With Small Stones
Below is the last photograph you can enjoy for this spot, from here the trail ascends even more, into the trees and then over the ridge. It would be the natural route to take if one were headed South and to Cinque Terre.
The Ligurian Sea
The trip down is somewhat faster and less eventfull, but we were happy we took the time to explore above Moneglia once again. If only just to get out and stretch the legs and breathe in fresh air without a mask!
Ristorante Nenne
This small, innocuous little restaurant can be passed by anyone walking on the via Vittorio Emanuele easily without notice, especially if they are not paying attention. Nenne is without a doubt, an actual hole in the wall. And though it has not been in business long, it has a great seafood menu and very good prices.
Erick’s Swordfish – Red Sauce With Olices
Erick’s Spaghetti And Clams – Yes Again!
The Eclectic Interior
The Eclectic Interior
Patti’s Gnocci With Porchini Mushroom Sauce
A View From Inside Looking Out
The Eclectic Interior
So ends yet another day in the small, coastal town of Moneglia. I hope you enjoyed this entry, tomorrow more and our adventure to Chiavari.
Having the benefit of staying in such a small town for a little more than a week, gives one the flexibility of being bored and looking for things to do. Of course I say this from the perspective of retirement and our slow travel mentality, where it’s all about kicking back, taking it easy and having the time to actually get to know a place, instead of driving through it to claim, “I was there!”
The Lungomare Dante Alighieri – Moneglia
The Leisurely Stroll
An often overlooked, under-used method of relaxation, that I might add is rarely used in the States, is the stroll. In fact, the lack of use of this word in the common venacular there, or everyday speech, testifies to the American’s reluctance to actually taking one. Americans are often too busy and too self-absorbed to consider a nice, long, uncomplicated relaxing walk. If you stay long enough in Moneglia, or probably any city or coastal town in Italy, you should take one of these, they can be mind clearing experiences. The Germans have an excellent word for it, schlendern, to stroll or amble and when correctly pronounced, actually sounds relaxing. The Italians however, probably invented it with their passeggiata, which actually means a bit more, but is still actively practiced today.
Our stroll along the Lungomare was relaxing in the extreme. The surf, which was fairly rough at the time, was pounding the coast. Where the beach was lined with stones, one could hear the strange and unusual sound of the rocks clacking against one another as the water washed over them and drew them back toward the sea. Add to that the perfect temperature, somewhere in the low seventies, and a stiff breeze, and you have all the ingredients for a great walk.
The Tower Of Villafranche
Along the Lungomare is the Tower or Fortress of Villafranche, or what is called today the Parco Castello di Villafranca, a broken down remnant of an old fort that is no longer used nor kept up. It has signs that it had been taken cared for until recently. Now it just appears to be a memory destined to fall back into the hillside from which it arose.
Looking Back Toward Moneglia
The Coast
Moneglia And The Church Tower Of Santa Croce
Fortress Remains You Cannot Reach
Interesting Mineral Accumulations
Another Look At The Coast
The Tower Of The Fort
View From Above Of Jetties
An Escape When It Rains
Patti On The Path To The Park
The Jetties That Protect The Beach
The Path Upon Entering
A View From A Remaining Parapet
The Beautiful Coastline
There are still some interesting things inside to see, nooks and crannies, here and there. The outside is more or less a maze of unmaintained stairs and paths. A good place for a relaxing picnic lunch, to read a book or just relax and unwind; there are some benches where one can sit and enjoy the sound of the waves and the horizon.
Ristorante Bistrot Julia
The restaurant Bistrot Julia is a small, unassuming place that is not much on menu, but definitely big on taste. This place, during normal times, would be crowded, so get reservations if you are planning a visit, we just happen to be fortunate enough to enjoy it in a more relaxed state.
Bistrot Julia – Outside
Bistrot Julia – Inside
Patti Having A Good Time
Erick Waiting For Steak
Based on a rating we found to be rather high on the internet, we decided to give it a try. Having not had a very good steak in a while, we were both surprised to find a Tomahawk Steak for two on the menu. It took some discussion with our waitress and all of two seconds to make up my mind what I wanted to order. After a very short negotiation with Patti, our wine and steak were ordered.
Bacalla Appetizer
Our Tomahawk – Cooked And Cut
Chocolate Cake With Raspberry Sauce
Needless to say, when a chef does not give you a choice on how you want your meat cooked and it comes out looking like this, you know you are in for a good meal. Paired with a very good local Nebbiolo, the steak and potatoes went down with very little argument. Our appetizers were Baccala on crushed vinegared olives, also very good. We would both highly recommend a stop at Bistrot Julia, if you are ever in Moneglia. First rate food at a fairly good price. They also will dispense wine from any unopened bottle of wine they have, as long as it’s under 24€. A fine enticement to get you to try new wines not necessarily served by the glass and you only pay for what you drink. With our steak, priced at 6€/hg (hectogram), and coming in around one kilo we walked out with a 97€ bill. Some might say that a bit steep, but I have paid far more in the States for steak and dinners for two as a whole and they were no where near as good. Enjoy!
We have a saying in our country, though no longer often heeded by some of our leaders, of taking the high path or road. In the comune of Moneglia you can actually do this, though not figuratively speaking; but by actually lacing up your hiking shoes and climbing the hills that gird this fine town. Not only will you feel better than those that don’t take the high road, you will also have a better view!
XX And -. Our Chosen Paths
Planning And The Initial Ascent
Before any ascent, a quick visit to the local tourist information center should be your first stop. There they can inform you on the best way to enter the maze of paths and hiking trails that criss-cross the hills and country-side above the town; they can also offer you a handy map for your initial planning and your pocket along the way.
Initially Seems Easy Enough
To find the entry point to the Northwest you can more or less follow via Caveri that takes you to the train station, then a short way on via Ammiraglio Bollo. On the left hand side of that road, there will be a concrete staircase that ascends from the sidewalk. A little further walk from there will bring you to the sign shown above. Again, it is best by now to have a very good idea of where you are headed, since not all signs along the way are as clear as the one above. However, the trails are well marked with the indicators assigned to them, so as long as you know where you are headed, you should have no difficulties.
The Dash-Dot And Double-X Routes
Initial Walkways
The initial ascent has some stairs and long, inclined walkways that are fairly easy to navigate. After this, the ascent only gets steeper, though it is all on pavement and semi-improved roadway. It’s not too long before you notice that you are making real progress getting above the town.
A View Of The Bay At The Very Start
Hiking The Cresta Di Comunaglia
After this, you make a quick turn off the pavement and into what looks to most as a gully. It almost looks like something you shouldn’t hike.
Erick On The Steep Roadway
The Streambed Entry
Once the path turns off the roadway it is rather steep and a bit treacherous. Though you could use sneakers, hiking shoes are strongly advised. The path when it starts out is essentially a stream bed that probably gets full rather quickly during heavy thunderstorms and downpours.
Trail Marker
Patti On The Path
After some time, and about two to three hundred meters of elevation, the path levels out somewhat. It is still important to pay close attention, there are many hazards, loose rocks and roots along the path.
Overlook of Moneglia
Overlook of Moneglia Bay
Hiking Path Signs
The Old Hiking Path Signs
Ligurian Sea
Ligurian Sea
Moneglia Bay
Ligurian Sea
Moneglia Bay
Walking along the Crest of Comunaglia is far less difficult than the climb. There are a few areas where you must mind yourself, falling would prove very problematic. However, the views along the crest path are well worth the time and effort. To get to this point, it took us about one hour of good hiking, while drinking plenty of water every fifteen minutes or so. It was in the high seventies and we brought 75cl of water for each us, which was just about enough. I would recommend, if it is in the eighties or ninties, bring MORE, do not dehydrate, there is nothing around for you to get more!
The entire hike took us a little over two hours, up and back. We had to pace ourselves somewhat, since sitting in Turin for three months has not improved our stamina at all. But if you are into hiking there are tons of trails around, you can even trek from one town to the next. Just plan for the weather and bring plenty of water.
Piccolo Hotel Restaurant
The restaurant of the Piccolo hotel is very nice and due to the current restrictions and low attendance here, we were very well served. Good thing too, after a good day hiking, we were both starving.
A Good Vino Rosso – Montalcino – Brizio
Erick’s Spaghetti alla Vongole
Erick’s Cima alla Genovese
Patti’s Polpo Arrosto
Creme Brulee
Caffe and Sambuca
The traditional spaghetti in clam sauce is always a hit with me, served with Piccadilly tomatoes, clams and oil, it is a great starter. I also ordered the Cima alla Genovese, which is made with peas, ceci beans and other vegetables, along with a hard boiled egg, rolled in thinly pounded veal. It must be refrigerated, sliced and served cold. It was not only unusual, but along with slightly vinegared carrots, surprisingly good; a very Genovese dish. Patti had grilled Octopus with a cream made from garbanzo beans (ceci in Italy). I tasted that too and it was amazing. Taking into account the quality of the food and service, a very good restaurant. The end to a great day in Moneglia. Until next time, ciao!
Here are some of the beautiful flowers and other flora that we found interesting walking around Moneglia. Most of these are of course prevalent along the Ligurian coast, and in most cases Italy. Enjoy!
Amid the current restrictions and travel new requirements, we have finally decided to venture out and take a long needed break from our lock-down. Craving sun and some nourishment for the soul, we headed south again to the coast, in the hopes of some solitude and reinvigoration.
Moneglia
A three hour and some minutes travel from our home here, is the tiny little town and comune of Moneglia. Situated in a bay on the Ligurian coast, it is a small strip of sand that most travelers would tend to overlook, but it is actually quite delightful.
Moneglia’s Beach
Moneglia’s Bay – Looking Toward The Grotto
Initial Reflections
The town itself does not offer many attractions like museums or other diversions, but provides all the essentials for a comfortable holiday. Though there are a several hotels to choose from, we decided to stay at the three star Piccolo Hotel.
The Piccolo Hotel
The accomodations here are very comfortable and are currently going for a very affordable price, so no complaints. Though one hates to see anyone enduring hardship because of the current situation, one side effect is, it is a very enjoyable time to travel, you definitely will not find many crowds, if at all, anywhere.
via Vittoria Emanuele
Beach Access Across The Street
Corsa Libero Longhi
via Caveri – Takes You To The Train Station And Hiking Trails
via Vittorio Emanuele
You May Buy Pizza By The Meter Here
Ristorante Tender
This is a very good restaurant with an excellent wine list and is fair to moderately priced, depending on your appetite. Patti and I had a wonderful meal here on our first evening, which of course lasted the customary two hours. Though quiet, there were a handful of couples and locals that showed up, other than that, it was a very peaceful Monday evening enjoying the coast.
Patti’s Calamari And Frites
My Tagliare Verde And Tuna Steak
We paired the above with a fine, dry Italian white wine, water, the customary after dinner café and Sambuca. Unfortunately I didn’t take a photograph of the wine and cannot remember it’s label off the top of my head, but it was a Vermentino. In my opinion, this style of wine is totally underrated. It is usually a clear off-white, crisp and dry wine, offering just a hint of fruit to compliment what ever you are eating. It goes very well with salads and seafood. Patti and I discovered this in Turin and usually have it with our lunches.
If you are looking for your fish fix, the Ligurian coast is the place to be. Most restaurants here have excellent menus based on products from the sea. There is also a very nice fish monger, or fish store, just a stone’s throw away from our hotel on via Vittorio Emanuele, if you are looking for something to take home and cook.
Last but not least, a shot of Moneglia Bay and the Ligurian Sea at dusk.
In Italian the word for lunch is pranzo, and with no surprise, it has its etymological roots in Latin. If you walk the streets of many small towns and cities in Italy around noontime, most restaurants will have a Pranzo Menu, outlining their lunch deal for the day. It appears customary that most Italians take lunch out, giving them yet another reason to socialize and catch up on the news and opinions of the day. It is considered to be the most important meal of the day. So, on any given day most restaurants here will be a-buzz with eating and talk, as the local population descend to get their midday meal and earful.
A Beautiful Spring Day In Piazza San Carlo – Torino – Virally Quiet Day
Pranzo a Torino
Since things have started to open up again, we thought a short blog on some of the restaurants we have visited, just walking the streets of Turin, was in order. They are arranged in order of price, service and quality of food, from best to better.
Ristoranti
Gastronomia Ferrero
This is actually a Ristogastronomia, or what we would call a Deli-Eatery. It is a fusion of a Delicatessen and restaurant, which also serves food for take out. Gastronomia Ferrero is located on Via Antonio Bertola, Turin and is an easy walk from the city center. To eat in, you just choose from the many fine things they have on display for a hot meal, or choose something from the deli if you are looking for something like a sandwich or panini. They have many pre-cooked foods to choose and the menu appears to change often, so going back does not necessarily mean you will get bored with the same old selection.
Gastronomia Ferrero – Via Antonio Bertola, 6, 10121 Torino TO, Italy
Hot Entrée Selection – Yum
Hot Entrée Selection – I’ll Take That And That…
Deli Selection
Restaurant Display Window
Restaurant Wines And Dining Area
Vegetable Rice
Squash Vinaigrette
Roasted Rabbit With Carrots
Roasted Rabbit With Roasted Peppers
All plates are made of paper and totally recyclable. Though, if you order something more demanding like we did, they will bring out silverware so you can manage meat or other entries that stronger tools. The food is very good and the pricing a bit more on the moderate side, but well worth the visit. And yes, if you eat in, you select your food and they serve you, along with what ever beverage you had in mind.
Our meal of rabbit and a side with wine, water, coffee and an apértif, ran a bit on the high side and came to 42€. Highly recommended nonetheless.
Pizzeria La Fila
La Fila pizzeria is located just down the road from the previous restaurant at Via Principe Amedeo, 3/A, Turin; and yes, make no mistake, it is the same street. Like some southern states in the US, streets often change their names across intersections, so the traveler should be aware!
La Fila Ristorante
This restaurant serves traditional pizzeria fare, including pizza and other hot pasta and spaghetti dishes. It has a good wine list and there are salads and desserts one can choose to round out your meal. Though I didn’t feel like taking a photograph of my Lasagna, since I was starving, so I only took one of my salad and my wife’s Spaghetti alla Vongole.
My Salad
Spaghetti With Clams
Our meals of salad and pasta with wine, water, coffee and an apértif, was more moderatly priced and came to about 31€ and change. Very good food and service at a good price; a recommended stop if looking for open air, piazza eating.
Da Peppino
This restaurant is right on the border of the old historic district and offers a fixed price lunch at very reasonable prices. So, if you are working on a very fixed budget, this could be one of your stops, while out shopping or traveling the city center or historic district. As you will see, we ate a lot of food, along with wine upgrade (a glass is included in the lunch menu), dessert, coffee and an apértif, and it all came to just 24€! Two can eat here easily for less than 20€.
Da Peppino is located on Via dei Mercanti 7, Turin and does not appear to have an issue attracting people to lunch, so you may want to be prompt. If you are more of the planning type, they do accept reservations.
Rigatoni all’Amatriciana
Spaghetti With Garlic And Oil
Pork Meatballs, Grilled Eggplant And Bread
Pork Meatballs With Peas
Grilled Eggplant
Roasted Ham Steak And Salad
Flan For Dessert
We really enjoyed this restaurant, though the pigeons at times were a bit annoying. The service was very good and the food was simple, but very tasty. And one cannot complain about the price, enjoy!
Sorry that it has been a while since our last update, but life has been rather restrictive and boring for the past couple of months, in fact since March and we think, rightly so. Though we could have continued to write entries about mundane, everyday things, we chose not to; since we wanted to keep our site more about our travels, than about extraneous matters. With the exception of writing about our former brief, quixotic brush traveling through the primordial pandemic soup, we offer the following brief update on the virus and life trying to return to normal in Northern Italy.
Still Remains – Turin
When we left last November to return to the States, Turin was still a bustling, energetic city, full of promise and as they say, “La Dolce Vita“. While we were gone, the Pest, as one can say, struck. It has ravaged this poor country, leaving noone unaffected. Like in the States, you probably know someone who has been touched by this trajedy. I know we have.
Though we knew, before we left, there was a serious outbreak, we pushed ahead, while taking the proper precautions, ever eager to return to our apartment and hopeful that it was not as bad as everyone was saying. However, upon our return, we were welcomed by a silent city, a quiet Turin, where only still remained.
Via Plana – From Our Apartment Windows
Not only were there few people on the streets, there were no cars, no conveyances of any kind. We left a city and returned to a morgue, an apocalyptic version of what we had left. Even though the church bells still rang, it was not a call to the faithful, but just one of keeping time, or worse yet, for the dead. All the churches had been closed. The streets that border our apartment building, which once bursted with activity, were now silent.
Excellent Website Showing Latest Details On The Virus
We quickly learned not to venture out unless absolutely necessary. We monitored Italian websites for information from the government, as well as the latest numbers from the hospitals, which I may add were in a day-to-day struggle to maintain care. It remained this way for more than two months, as the virus took its toll among the denizens of northern Italy. We were inside so much, my wife and I remarked that we couldn’t believe there were leaves on the trees already, when we finally ventured out for a time.
Virus Precautions
Through quarantine measures and effective government, the numbers slowly started to get better in late March. And not until recently, the numbers of new cases have improved enough that Italy started taking actions to re-open its economy. But the government knew that this had to be done like opening a bottle of fine Barolo, slowly and with purpose, not like Prosecco with wild abandon. In any case, they also knew it was important to honor the victims, as well as those who worked on the front lines, the doctors, the nurses and all of the hospitals with an aerial salute, or flyover. They lost a lot of their own keeping everyone safe as possible and most alive.
The Frecce Tricolori – 313th Acrobatic Training Group of the Italian Airforce
Turin, along with the rest of Italy, has adopted a very rigorous staged redeployment of its re-awakening. I must admit, the procedures, at all levels of government, appear to have been well thought out and targeted for each particular region, and in some instances municipalities. Each particular type of business has been given clear requirements for re-opening and accepting clientele. Far be it for me to say that some of these requirements are over the top or not needed, but we are dealing with a virus that has devastated parts of this country. So, we wear the masks that have been provided to us when and where we are told, perhaps more for our safety than others.
Spring in Turin
On a lighter note, the Spring here has been, I would think, more normal or average. It had its rainy period followed by periods of bright blue sky and cool, crisp air. It has remained so up until now. Unlike last year, which was rather warm early on, this year appears to be tracking closer to normal weather patterns. Even today, the early morning brings temperatures in the high 50’s to low 60’s, with the later day and evening climbing to around 75, with low humidity. Not bad for a comfortable late Spring. It is also amazing how great the air is here has been without all the traffic. And don’t think the Italians haven’t noticed either, in fact, there are rumors of new regulations brewing to stem the nasty air that is so prevalent in the Po River valley. One can only hope. Teslas for everyone!!!
The Dora Riparia – University of Turin in the background
The Dora Riparia is flowing vigorously as usual, due to the seasonal Alpine runoff. It’s noted for its grey waters, probably due to the grey rocks and limestone that it dissolves as the water makes its way down to Turin. Viewed up close one would swear it’s liquid concrete, but no, it’s just muddy grey water.
The River Po – Looking Southeast
The River Po – Looking Northwest
In contrast, as can be seen by the waters of the River Po above, it too has been flowing forcefully for some time. Partly due to a lot of snow and rain that the mountain areas received during the March and April timeframes. Though not running above flood stage, it was getting close to it.
Conclusion
So we hope to be traveling soon, we have actually booked places for mid June and hope to be venturing around locally in the coming weeks. So, be patient and please stay tuned, we look forward to some new adventures soon!
After a lengthy and very nice holiday vacation in the States, we have finally returned to Turin. It was not without its drama however, no thanks to the Corona virus.
Into the Unknown
Having made our plans to return months ago, we continually monitored the situation unfolding with the virus hoping to mitigate any surprises. Never under-estimate the best laid plans of mice and men. The day before we were to leave, it finally really hit us with an email from Delta informing us that our flight had been cancelled. We had three choices, rebook for an immediate opening to get us to Milan, delay our trip and rebook for sometime in May, or get a refund. We thought about our options for a while, a short while.
On the one hand, we could try, at least before its too late. If we get stuck somewhere we could hopefully make other plans to get to our destination. We already had a trip to Naplesbooked and coming up soon, we wanted to keep those plans, if at all possible. We also had to take into account our growing boredom sitting around Cary, while paying for an apartment in Turin.
Tickets For Two – New York to Milan
On the other, there was the virus and all the complications entailed with it. We even considered it might be safer in the U.S., especially if there were a severe breakout and one of us were to get sick. Keeping all this in mind, we threw caution to the wind, bought a stock of travel wipes, rebooked through JFK and Paristo Milan, and headed into the unknown.
Charles de Gaulle Airport
We were rebooked through AirFrance from JFK to Paris. Though the flight was packed, it was totally without incident, with the exception of the flight attendant ramming a cart into my knee halfway through the night. The only unfortunate thing was, the flight was the midnight red-eye which totally screws with my circadian rhythm. The good news was I never hear one cough or sneeze while I was awake, perhaps the really sick ones stayed home!?
Onto Milan
Going to Milan was totally different. This was the first indication, that the attention to the virus was having real affects, people are scared and are really staying home! The plane from Paris Charles de Gaulle to Milan was more or less empty.
AirFrance from Paris to Milan – Empty!
Luckily once we arrived in Milan most train services were still operating. The schools are of course closed for a few weeks and there is some reduction in long haul routes, but for the most parts you can still book and travel to most places.
The Alps are still extraordinary
Milan Hotels and Streets Vacant
We arrived in Milan around 7 P.M. From the main train station, we had a quick walk over to the Just Hotel, our accomodations for the night, only to find that it was closed! They did however, have a sign informing us that the Glam Hotel across the street had taken all of their reservations. It was while we were reading this sign, that two unknowns tried to pickpocket us. However, since we were wearing long coats and had burglar-proof stuff on, they had a big problem. So, they sprayed our pants with a dark brown colored paint and said we had gotten something on ourselves, probably from a bird. They shot it in such a way so you could not clean it without taking off your coat, which is what they want you to do. Don’t fall for this one! It is, or course, only meant to distract you. There are of course no birds out at that hour, especially in a city. They were just trying to distract us. Well to make a short story even shorter, we quickly realized what was going on and quickly wandered our way across the street, avoiding all contact with them. They would of course not enter the hotel, confirming the ruse.
Nico Quick Bite – Good Pizza – But Tonigh, Empty!
After a quick clean up we headed out across the street for a quick bite to eat. Milan is empty. When I say empty, I mean empty. There are very few people around and definitely NO TOURISTS.
Milano Centrale – Back To Turin
Our biggest surprise was the next morning at Milano Centrale, the always bustling train station with hordes of tourist, vacationers and commuters, as a heart pumps its blood to all its organs, totally anemic.
Milano Centrale – Normally Crowded
Milano Centrale – Now Pretty Quiet
The trains still run, but there are frankly few on board, including ourselves. We left on the 10:30 A.M. Italo (originating from Naples) from Milan to Turin and we were the only ones in our carrage. Naturally, with all that’s going on, that can be a good thing.
Italo 9908 to Turin – Just as fast but a bit lighter
We finally arrived in Turin around 11:30 to finds things, more or less, the same. Though the were plenty of children around due to school being suspended, people were still going about their work. It is good to be back.