Turin – Monte Dei Capuccini Overlook

Tired of waiting for the rain to come, Patti and I on Sunday decided to take a walk anyway, our umbrellas in tow just in case. Initially we thought we would just walk across the river Po again, in the opposite direction this time, to enjoy the Spring weather. It’s been raining here so often one has to get out when one can and enjoy it.

GriffinPatti_OnOurWayUp_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti starting our ascent to the Monte dei Capuccini

Our first thoughts were just a short walk to the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, across the Vittorio Emanuele bridge, stroll along the other bank for a bit and then cross again using the Umberto bridge below our street and back to our apartment. However, upon reaching the other side, we noticed the entrance to what we thought was a park at first just across the street from where we were walking. We quickly realized it was the entrance to the church that sat on top of the hill and decided a detour was in order.

MariaImmaculata_SupergaBackground_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Monument of Maria Immacolata

The climb is at first rather gradual but then steepens towards the end, especially the last few hundred meters. Before you reach the top there is the entrance to the museum and the hilltop bar where you can buy refreshments and enjoy the overlook. Finally, when you reach the top, the monument of the Maria Immacolata greets you. She faces Turin, which allows you to take a photograph of her with the Superga juxtaposed in the back.

Turin_OverlookFromChiesaDeiCapuccini_2_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Turin from Monte dei Capuccini, looking West-Southwest

The overlook once you get to the top is well worth the twenty minute climb.

Turin_OverlookFromChiesaDeiCapuccini_1_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Turin from Monte dei Capuccini, looking West-Northwest, with the prominent Mole to the right

From this vantage point you can see most of Turin and even our street and apartment.

Turin_OverlookWithText_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Our Turin

As you can see by the above photograph we are but a five minute walk from the beautiful Piazza Vittorio Veneto which is reminiscent of other more famous Italian piazzas with all of the typical restaurants, cafes and bars.

Turin_FromTheUmbertoBridge_skaliert_abgeschnitten — View from the Umberto bridge

We concluded our Sunday walk with crossing the Umberto bridge, which on any other day is very busy with traffic, since it feeds into very busy main street Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. For a Sunday a very uneventful, relaxing and serendipitous walk.

23 May, 201929 August, 2020

Turin – Sassi Tramway And Superga Basilica

Today, after contemplating the weather for tomorrow and whether or not it would be any better in the next few days, Patti and I decided to take a bus and the tramway to Basilica Superga. She astutely determined we had to take the 61 Bus from Vittorio Veneto over to Sassi. So around ten after eleven in the morning we made tracks for the local fermata.

TicketsForTwo_RackRailcar_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Two Tickets from Sassi-Superga to Basilica Superga

The Sassi-Superga Tramway

In Sassi we purchased tickets for the cogged railway (a.k.a. rack railroad or tramway) Superga Tramway to the Basilica Superga. The tramway runs every hour on the hour from Sassi to Superga and subsequently on the half-hour on return. Tickets are purchased at the base of the railway from a vending machine, and yes the machine has an english option and roundtrip tickets cost 6 euros.

CoggedTramway_RackRailcar_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Car D12 on the Sassi-Superga Rack railway

The ride is awesome and the gradient is pretty steep even though they use regular rail cars, unlike the ones that are built at an angle, like on funicular railcars we have been on.

GriffinPattiAndErick_Selfie_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — My attempt at taking a selfie together (not sure what they call that) and failing…

We enjoyed the ride up and the beautiful Spring weather, temperature in the mid 60’s and the cool mountain air, yummm.

GriffinErick_ILikeRetirement_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick enjoying his Campari Spritz after that difficult tramway ride

After disembarking the tramway it was time for a quick break right at the station. A quick salami and cheese panini and Campari Spritz to get re-energized. After the customary 15 minute wait after ordering at the bar we were able to eat. One has to remind oneself to slow down when traveling in Italy, time is not a constant on all parts of the Earth.

Basilica Superga

The basilica it situated on top of the Superga hill which is some 2200 feet above the city and therefore makes it a very prominent point of interest when looking to the north from the city.

Basilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — The Basilica’s Cupola as seen from the tramway and the start of our small hike to the Basilica

After a short ten minute walk up a fairly steep hill you climb a short set of stairs and then see the Basilica all of a sudden. On a fairly clear day its structure makes it stick out of the sky.

Basilica_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Basilica Superga

Unfortunately, this May the Basilica was closed for renovations, so we were not able to see the actual interior. Even without a close inspection of the structure one can easily see that no one can argue with this, since there are clearly cracks and other obvious things that need repair. That required us to contribute somehow, so we decided we must visit the cupola since it was still open, regardless of cost.

TicketsForTwo_Basilica_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Two tickets to the Basilica Superga’s Cupola, no baggage!

After the purchase of our tickets, we had to climb the 131 steps to the cupola and see the oversight of Turin.

GriffinErick_Basilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick climbing the first 100 steps, the final 30 would prove to have much less room

The oversight is pretty breathtaking, unfortunately in between rainy days, we were only able to get a semi-clear view of the mountains surrounding Turin.

OverlookFromBasilica_1_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking West Northwest from the Basilica over North Turin

The River Po can be seen above at the foot of the photograph. This is the river that cuts through Turin and has its origins in the Italian Alps.

OverlookFromBasilica_5_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking West Southwest from the Basilica over Turin; one can see the Mole to the right of the River Po on the left

One can actually get an almost 360 degree view of the surrounding area from the Basilica’s vantage point.

OverlookFromBasilica_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking to the East Northeast over the Basilica’s Palazzo

And finally a bit to the South.

OverlookFromBasilica_3_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Looking to the East Southeast over the roof of the Basilica

The rooftop fully surveyed we also enjoyed our cramped but slow descent down the staircase to our exit.

GriffinPatti_Basilica_1_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti on her way down

After our little climb we were still a bit hungry, the panini having been made with a tortilla and not the traditional focaccia left our stomachs a bit wanting; we therefore decided to visit the Artis Opera at Superga Basilica and eat something else.

GriffinPatti_Restaurant_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti at the restaurant, a very small room but comfortable

Though the room we had lunch in was very small with four tables in all; there were of course other rooms. It was very comfortable and the waiter was very attentive. I had a Insalata Mista and Patti had the Risotto Piemontese.

GriffinErick_ILikeRetirement_2_Sassi–Superga_May2019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Erick – the railroad is in our blood. Damn can’t escape it!

Our return trip and ride down was just as enjoyable as the ride up. Springtime in Piemonte I must say is just GREAT!

17 May, 201923 August, 2020

Milan – Tristan’s Last Vacation Stop

With Tristan departing for the States again on May 18th we all decided a short visit to Milan was in order.

After leaving Turin midday we arrived and checked in at the Just Hotel in Milan, very close to the train station so it would be easy on Saturday to get to the airport at Malpensa.

The Duomo

Early today we awoke, had a quick breakfast and headed to the Duomo.

The Rooftop

Patti purchased tickets for us to see all that can been seen at the Duomo, including an elevator express trip to the roof.

Though there was construction, even here there was plenty to see. It is amazing how much detail and sculpture the architects, builders and clergy put into parts of this dome that would not normally be seen by anyone.

Some forgotten cardinal or bishop hoisted by cherubs before a rarely used rooftop doorway

The architecture here, dictated by the physics of the day, is indeed impressive.

A forest of buttresses, piers and finials supporting Duomo’s massive inside

And another perspective.

The roof of the Duomo is for sure decorative. Probably in an attempt to add some counterweight to the expansive and beautiful interior.

The Duomo’s Interior

Duomo’s huge nave, looking toward the choir and apse

The windows are traditional, depicting scenes from the Bible as a pedagical device for those who could neither read nor write.

The amazing stained glass windows in Duomo’s apse

And…

The amazing stained glass windows in Duomo’s apse from a distance

Duomo’s Archeological Museum

There is also an archeological museum below the dome. It is an on-going dig, after supporting the massive cathedral above using modern technology, which can be seen in some of the photographs.

There were some impressive mosaic tile floors uncover from former churches that stood here once.

There are also the obligatory tombs of former bishops, priests or rich benefactors littering the grounds.

Milan surrounding the Duomo

There are a few things to experience and see around the Duomo, including the old, simple yet very functional street cars or trams. I never get tired of their usefulness and simplicity as a convenience; sad there are not more of them in the States as they bring life to a city.

Of course there are always the overly expensive and necessary stores to see in the Galleria; the original glass enclosed mall.

Having exhausted ourselves and in need of some refreshment, Tristan recommended visiting Starbuck’s very large roastery.

And finally a departing shot of the Milanese Underground and back to our hotel for a rest before dinner.

17 May, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Application Day for Erick’s Permesso

The Questura di Torino, is let’s say not the most inviting place, for it would remind one, for those old enough to remember, of their local DMV (Department of Motor Vehicles) back in the 1960’s. Having been here only once to obtain an appointment, which by the way took two hours, I re-entered with some trepidation.

This week, on May 15th, we returned for my Permesso di Soggiorno (permission of stay.) After reading all the print-outs that were taped on all the walls, my wife and I decided to take a more direct approach and just go inside, behind the green barred protected area, and stand in line, directly in front of BLUE window number 1, as indicated on my appointment sheet.

WRONG!

Within five minutes we were yelled at and sent back, along with almost everyone else loitering there, out to the waiting area. It turned out, the scoreboard there read out one’s number along with the applicable window to go to when called, nonetheless I remained confident.

My calm, cool exterior – They don’t scare me, his show was for the other illegal immigrants, not me

As my appointment time drew closer, I started to get more anxious as to whether or not we actually understood what they actually told us. Do I have all the correct documents?

Hmm, what if they find something irregular, I could be arrested, nah.., they would never do that. I’m American

Finally, three minutes after three o’clock in the afternoon, with them just returning from lunch ????? , my number was called.

That’s my number, window six, I will probably be alone tonight in a four foot concrete cell eating croissants and drinking water

Actually after the lady remonstrated a couple for being in front of us, since their number was NOT called, we reluctantly approached the window. We didn’t have everything she wanted, but she spoke English very well and we were able to explain or provide proof to all her questions and satisfaction. After my finger printing we left with my temporary permesso and it all took less than an hour..! In Italy no less, go figure.

13 May, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Mother’s Day at Valentino Park

A belated append for Mother’s Day, spent at Valentino Park. Patti and I decided yesterday on taking a nice leisurely stroll down to the medieval village, approximately a mile walk from our apartment.

The park itself is pretty expansive. It contains many paved paths with some roads going through it. Several boating club houses dot the river bank. The river Po borders it along its eastern side where on this day it was hosting a boating race regatta.

Medieval Village

The village was built in the 19th century as an authentic reproduction of an actual medieval village prior to its demise.

There are of course several shops and demonstration stations. There are some light tourist things for sale, including the ever popular Harry Potter paraphernalia, wands and such.

The buildings are characteristically very close together and include the customary trenches for waste water, which were thoughtfully dry.

The colonnades have the traditional colors of the builders and there are several paintings or remarks in the stones.

There is even an old printing press with demonstrations strategically placed behind a sample of the wall mosaics of that time. The only thing missing here are medieval people, their animals and probably all the smells that go along with them. ?

We ended our Mother’s Day walk by visiting the arboretum or Giardino Roccioso.

3 May, 201923 August, 2020

Offenbach – A Diamond In The Rough

Venture far from Sachsenhausen or Süd-Frankfurt, or a short stop on your way to Hanau (for whatever reason that may be), you will find the small city of Offenbach. One can say it’s one of those towns or cities that most resembles the new Germany, pluralistic, cosmopolitan and apparently an up-and-coming place. Our daughter lives here and has re-acclimated herself to the bigger city life, than she was used to when she lived in Kassel.

Marktplatz

Though we have no photographs, mostly due to a certain ambivalence on my part, one can say this is where the action is. It has many modern stores, a main pedestrian zone for shopping and several trendy, economical and interesting places to eat. There is a U-Bahn stop here, which can be easily reached from Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof or main train station.

Other Areas

Around Offenbach’s Marktplatz, are many different areas for business and residential with the train station for the city slicing right through it. Though we use the Offenbacher Hauptbahnhof regularly, we have never considered looking for a place to eat near it. We were surprised to find a culinary gem not too far away!

ShauMAHL Restaurant

On a chilly, rainy evening with reservations for the Frankfurter Botschaft, we started our restaurant adventure on the Offenbacher Hauptbahnhof platform waiting for a DB train that would never arrive (perhaps another DB störung, they are famous for them as one of our previous blog articles describes; more on this in a later blog entry.)

Dismayed, we quickly canceled our current reservation and began a search for something comparable in the immediate area. We found ShauMAHL.

One would say a rather expensive restaurant. However, as the saying goes (and we are technically on vacation, even though retired ?), “in for a penny, in for a pound!”

Tristan and Ericka before enjoying their meal

They offer a fixed-priced menu which provides a very round selection, from fish, fowl to meat.

I selected the rabbit dish with green sauce which was excellent. Rabbit, rabbit meatballs, barley, ummmm, good.

For drink, I selected a nice regionally (Württemberg) produced red, Graf von Neipperg, merlot, 2015 (€79), very nice (I think I used the word ‘okay’ while trying it, much to the dismay of the waitress.) It has all the qualities of being a really good wine. But lest I go into wine snobbery, my bar (bar as in a high-jump bar, a bar to get over) is a 1986 or 1989 Chateau Lynch Bages, need I say more?

For dessert we chose whatever we were more inclined to eat, Erick the Apfelstrüdel, Patti and Ericka the ice cream and Tristan a coffee. Erick and Ericka still ordered an expresso with Sambuca straight-up.

For a rainy evening, an expensive (€410), though extraordinary find for a dismissed place like Offenbach.

4.8 Stars ??

26 April, 201923 August, 2020

Heidelberg – Cloudy And Rainy

After a beautiful evening in Heidelberg, Zeus decided it was time to change the weather on us.

Hence, when we woke up that morning, we were greeted by a driving rain. Nothing like the downpours we would get in North Carolina, but a steady, bone-chilling, 48 degree shower on our vacation (we’re calling it that now, not to feel too much like retirees.) That’s not too bad, the last time I visited, it was in the 20s and snowing!

Hans Thoma Platz the stop closest to our Gasthof

After our hotel hostess provided breakfast it was off to the Altstadt and the Heidelberg Castle.

The Altstadt

The Altstadt of Heidelberg is now essentially an outside mall, commercialized with all the latest trendy stores from all over the world. Its nothing the way I remember it from years ago.

The beginning of the Hauptstrasse, Heidelberg

Some of the restaurants look the same but there are many new coffee shops, cafes and contemporary stores that fill the Hauptstrasse. It begins with the Kaufhaus right after exiting Bismarkplatz.

And after walking over a kilometer or so, ends with a church or two or three and the castle.

The Heidelberg Castle

The Heidelberger Schloss, or castle, sits atop the hill overlooking the city.

From the Hauptstrasse it is a formidable structure. There are two ways to visit the castle. One may walk the serpentine street that has a number of switch-backs.

Its raining and I’m cold, two tickets for the train please!

Or one can pay the €8.00 fee to ride the funicular train up the hill which is better choice when it’s raining out, plus admission to the castle is included.

The castle looking towards the pharmacy museum

The castle contains the usual large room for the storage of goods in case the town was attacked. It also houses a pharmacy museum and the largest wooden wine cask in the world, able to hold 58,000 gallons of wine.

The cask was used back in the day when the town produced its own wine label.

The smaller cask holding 300 liters of wine

Recently, an effort was started by a local vitner, Jörg Clauer, to restart the production of a Heidelberg labeled wine using the smaller cask that is shown in the ante chamber to the largest one. In it, they have stored 300 liters of Pinot Noir, reviving the wine making tradition here.

Heidelberg Overlook

From the castle one gets a great view of Heidelberg and its environs.

To the west and north looking toward Weststadt and Bergheim.

Then the old Heidelberg bridge and the last part of the Altstadt.

Heidelberg is still a beautiful little city, full of shopping and some interesting things to see. Though I was a bit disappointed in some of the old shops that are missing, I still think it is worth a look, especially for those who have not experienced its charm yet.

Weinwirtschaft Alt Hendesse

Our second and last night here we ate at the Alt Hendesse restaurant which ostensibly is a Weinwirtschaft.

It could be the establishment used to be part of some wine production at some point in their history. But there is no evidence of any label or production by them on their current wine list.

Patti and Ericka waiting for their Aubergine dishes

However, the food was very good and satisfying. I can only say that for the short time we were there between 8 and 9 PM they were turning people away constantly. They actually somehow made room for us shuffling some locals around to other tables.

4.7 Stars ?

25 April, 201923 August, 2020

Germany – On To Heidelberg

Our last day in Munich completes itself with a trainride to Heidelberg via Stuttgart. Taking the inter-city IC trains was a snap using the trainline-eu phone app.

Munich Hauptbahn is my favorite train station, leaving it behind is both a memory and an auf wiederschauen.

We arrived on time and took streetcar 24 to Mühltalstrasse and the Gasthaus zum Deutscher Kaiser hotel.

A quaint, newly renovated, nothing to speak of personally owned hotel, with breakfast included.

Our Gasthaus is situated one mile as the crow flies from Heidelberg altstadt.

A view of Handshuhsheim from our hotel rooftop window

And lastly for its namesake…Wilhelm der zweiter.

The many colors and nuances of Wilhelm II

25 April, 201923 August, 2020

Munich – A Bavarian Treat

Since I have been here several times, I asked my family what their first impressions of Munich were and their response was, they thought it to be a very livable city. Clean and vibrant with a very cosmopolitan population.

For one, the Isar runs directly through it adding to its luxuriant greenspaces and parks. So it is a very green city.

From Ludwigsbrücke am Gastieg (Rosenheimer Strasse)

The city itself, like many other European cities of this age, is comprised of an older inner (alt stadt) city, surrounded by the more contemporary version of itself. Our hotel, the Hilton München City on Rosenheimer Strasse, is situated in the perfect spot just outside the old city to enjoy the use of its mass transportation system (which is extensive by the way) and of course walking.

Walking over the Ludwigsbrücke from our hotel we meet the Isartor, the eastern gate to the old city. It no longer protects the old city from tourists and vagabonds, but once was a stalwart against unwanted invasions.

The Altstadt

The city core is comprised of numerous catholic churches, kneipes and bräuthauses, somehow proving the proverb that faith and beer are somehow strongly tied together. In fact everything in Munich is tied to beer.

The famous Glöckenspiel of the Munich Rathaus still works, but now its on a specific schedule. You must consult the working hours in the front of the Rathaus for specific play times.

Other points of interest include the famous Frauenkirche with its dual towers and cupolas. The church inside is nothing special, I myself preferred Saint Peter’s from what I could see. Taken for granted that we attended some of the Latin high mass on Easter morning at Saint Peter’s, which may have swayed my opinion a bit.

The cupolas and towers of the Frauenkirche

The cupolas of the Frauenkirche from a different perspective.

Tristan, Patti and Ericka in front of the Theatinerkirche am Odeonsplatz

The Deutsches Museum

We ventured around on foot a bit to discover the two famous hofbräuhauses and the Odeonsplatz. We also took the time to visit a few museums, including the Deutsches Museum, which we highly recommend, especially if you have any kind of mining background. The mining display is extensive.

Tristan investigating mining exhibit equipment

It is also very dark and there are numerous crags and unlit crevasses where anything creepy can hide.

The museum has many other exhibits including naval, airplane and electronics (our personal favorite).

They even have a System 7501 and System 360 from IBM, as well as a Cray and numerous early PC models.. Two tickets anyone..?

So that just about does it for this whirlwind blog entry about Munich.

Our Farewell to Munich

We leave you with a shot of the Marienplatz…

…and Frauenkirche in the evening.

23 April, 201923 August, 2020

Munich – HB – Zwei Ein Halb Maß Bier

Nothing says München Hofbräuhaus or Munich like beer.

Not beer as it’s served in the states, but serious beer, always draft, helles or dunkeles, in mass quantities. Let’s just say after one of these babies, you shouldn’t drive. After two, you may need an alternate form of conveyance.

The Hofbräuhaus epitomizes large quantities of beer, brought quickly and consumed readily. Tristan, Ericka and I recommend the original which has a nice clean bitter taste that refreshes one’s thirst after a long walk.

Mustard – our two tickets to pretzel and beer heaven

It also goes well with one of the large pretzels that you may buy separately (about €3) which taste especially good with the mustard. The pretzels are so big that four can snack on them easily.

Tristan enjoying a liter (Mass) beer at the HB

The atmosphere inside is the typical bräuhaus arched ceiling that one would say gives it that special Bavarian gemütlichkeit. A German word used to express cozi- or hominess, or when one is warm and comfortable. That along with the 5-member brass ompa-band only adds to its charm.

Ahhh, good to the last drop, noch ein bitte!

The food is also very good. I tried the mixed salad, a Bratwürst on sauerkraut and potato salad and all were delicious.

Ericka and Patti tried the Bratwürst too, but with the mixed season vegetables and were pleasantly surprised when there was no meat in them.

We would consider the Hofbräuhaus a very tasty and necessary stop for anyone visiting Munich.

4.3 Stars ??