Another must see place in Zermatt is Gornergrat. You can reach this promontory by using the Gornergrat train, a mountain rack railway, which ascends the mountain passed Riffelalp and Riffelberg.
There are several stops besides these two along the way that one may decide to leave the train and just walk or hike. However, unlike Sunnegga and Blauherd, the terrain here is a bit more unforgiving and vertical. Also, the weather on top of the mountains can be cold and unpredictable, so bring something warm and something waterproof, especially if you are hiking.
Looking towards Dent Blanche – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat station – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward Zermatt and Mattertal – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Chapelle du Gornergrat – Bernhard von Aosta – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat Glacier
The height of the trip is the summit and the Gornergrat Glacier. Aside from this, this isn’t much to see, especially in marginal weather when the Matterhorn is obscured.
Panorama of Gorner Glacier – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Riffelberg
On the way down we stopped at Riffelberg, with the hopes of getting some hiking in down to Riffelalp. However, the weather was not looking very good and we were still suffering from our colds, so we decided against it.
View from Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Wanderwege – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Tall Peaks across the valley Matter – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Here are some short videos that were taken of our trip.
Restaurants
We did not eat at the restaurant on the summit, but rather waited until we were back in Zermatt. We left around ten in the morning and were already back a little after noon.
China Garden
Any one seeking good Chinese food at very reasonable prices has to visit the China Garden.
China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti at China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
They have all the dishes which are prepared with continental ingredients and taste delicious. For those that prefer their lunches uncomplicated, here you can definitely find some vegetarian or simple to order.
Spring roll – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Vegetable rice with vegetable mix – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
And of course, after lunch the day would not be complete this week without the customary rain storm. Actually, this was just a gentle shower, later in the day we had a very severe thunderstorm. But we were inside the hotel by then and did not care. Again, the weather can be unpredictable here, so be prepared and check the forecast, they are for the most part reliable.
Tomorrow it’s on to Matterhorn Glacier, so we will be taking the Matterhorn Glacier Express.
Part of the reason for even going to Zermatt has to be the hiking. Not only are the views breathtaking, even on a marginal day, but the air is fresh and clean and very enjoyable. And then there are the mountains, Zermatt has them and much more.
Panorama at Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt
To get anywhere, aside from the town, will require time, energy and a lot of walking. Or, you can purchase tickets to get up the mountains. These can be purchased separately, multi-day pass or the flexi-pass. We found the multi-day pass to be perfect for our needs, since we had no intention of skipping any days (they get a small premium for the flexi-pass, not sure why). The Peak Pass that we purchased, allowed us to travel to all three experiences, the Rothorn (Sunnegga-Blauherd), Gornergrot and the Matterhorn Glacier Experience.
The Peak Pass – Tickets For Two – Zermatt, Switzerland
Sunnegga
To get to Sunnegga and Blauherd you can either employ one of the hiking trails or take the cable car up to Sunnegga. From there you can start your hike or take a gondola ride to Blauherd, which gets you closer to the Stellisee, if that is your destination. From there however, you will have to hike.
The gondola ride goes up and down over some very treacherous terrain. So we decided we would take the gondola ride up and hike back down to Sunnegga.
Sunnegga station – Zermatt, Switzerland
Blauherd – Stellisee
The Stellisee is a good fifteen minute hike from the Blauherd gondola terminal over rather even, if not slightly downward sloping terrain. It is rather easy and should afford most people no difficulties.
Road and hiking trail to Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti ready to hike – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Stellisee hiking sign – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti with Matterhorn backdrop – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Stellisee is a rather barren, pristine alpine lake nestled on the side of the Unterrothorn. Many people will usually hike up to the refuge on the other side, but since the conditions were not ideal, we decided to just take a photograph of it and start our hike back down.
Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Murmelweg
Named for the eponymous animal that has made the territory it goes through its home, the Murmelweg is a casual, if not easy hiking trail back to Sunnegga. There are a few technical areas, but nothing that most people will find impossible to pass. I would wear hiking boots though, the trail goes over rocky terrain and a good boot will help stabilize your ankles and aid your hike.
Hiking sign back to Sunnegga – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Taking the Murmelweg to Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland
Trail behind looking towards Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
The below video is a fairly good example of what to expect.
We chose this route over the five lakes trail, which you can actually see as you hike this trail, only because we heard that route was rather boring after about the first two lakes. However, if you have the time and motivation, I would commend it, since it has more elevation changes and a bit more challenging than this trail.
Erick and the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Trail turns into rocks – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti on the Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti leading the way – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
A murmel hole – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Geodetic marker – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and adjacent peaks – looking towards RiffelalpAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
The area of Findeln and Gornergrat below – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Getting close to trail end – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our Route – Map
The following reference map details our trail route. The route was a bit over two miles with only a few hundred feet elevation decline and took us about an hour and a half to complete, stopping frequently for photographs.
Blauherd-Stellisee-Murmelweg-Sunnegga Trail – All Trails – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
Osteria Bella Italia
Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
An Italian restaurant that is part of hotel on the Bahnhofstrasse, the Osteria Bella Italia is what my wife and I call and overpriced, corporate dining establishment serving food they want to be Italian. It’s not bad, but the preparation is what I would say a bit sub-optimal. Then there are the prices. I paid 22CHF for a small bowl of pasta with garlic and oil, totally unheard of in Italy.
Cauliflower soup – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
This week we traveled by train from Turin to Zermatt, Switzerland in the hopes of enjoying the weather and the clean air. There is plenty of clean air, but the weather has remained extremely variable, with it almost always raining in the afternoons.
Zermatt train station – Zermatt, Switzerland
After we got off the EuroCity train in Visp we had to take the local train from there to Zermatt. These trains are run by the canton and are especially equipped to ascend to the 5200ft elevation we needed to ascend in order to get to our destination.
Unfortunately, our first attempt failed and the train that we were on broke down at its first stop. We had to wait approximately a half an hour before another arrived to complete our journey.
Zermatt
Zermatt is considered a town by the local government and with a constant population of around five thousands, that would seem to be about correct. However, the bulk of the people that you find here are tourists. And as one would expect, the tourist population swells during the weekends as local Swiss and others from neighboring regions come to enjoy the alpine air.
Pfarrerkirche and Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking down the Mattertal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Bahnhofstrasse, the main street – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn shrouded in clouds – Zermatt, Switzerland
The town is divided by a river with is fed by the many glaciers that surround the town. However, the flow of this river is controlled by a dam and there are signs that warn those who want to sun themselves on the rocks along its banks, that water can be unexpectedly released and you can be swept down river. We actually witnessed the water level rise once due to the rain we had been receiving.
Gomerabach – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Area above Zermatt along the river – Zermatt, Switzerland
Old Zermatt
There are examples in the upper parts of Zermatt, of the original buildings that were used by the early residents. Some are still in use today. However, with the increased land prices, most have sold out and moved up valley to get away from the tourism gentrification.
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Older original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Tradition Julen
Our hotel is the four star The Tradition Julen hotel. It is one of the more pricier hotels in the area but the rooms are very cozy and comfortable. In fact, it is one of the few four star hotels that I have not had the displeasure of asking for something that should be already included in the room! The service is first rate and so far we are having a great stay. It is also close to the center of town, but kind of out of the way too, so you won’t get a lot of tourist walking by the hotel, which makes for a quieter stay.
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our week long stay here, we ate at an assortment of restaurants. The area does have its traditional food and our hotel actually houses a traditional Valais Stube which serves food like this, mainly raclette, beef fondues and other curiosities.
Stadel Restaurant
The first restaurant we stopped at that had just opened for the summer months. The service and food were good, but I have to knock them a bit for not having any sauerkraut – it is on the menu. It would have paired well with the Water Buffalo Bratwurst I had ordered and enjoyed.
Water Buffalo Gulash – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Water Buffalo Bratwurst with potatoes – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Hotel Julen Restaurant
Our hotel has its own restaurant that serves cosmopolitan cuisine. Due to weather complications, we were forced to stay in and enjoy what it had to offer one evening and were not disappointed. We thought the food was very good and the prices fair.
Cauliflower soup – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Traditional Wiener Schnitzel with french fried – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our initial feel for the town is good, it has excellent services and plenty of restaurants and bars. Some of the food can be pricey, but if you stick to the traditional German fare, the prices seem more reasonable. The people are very friendly and speak multiple language, especially English, so getting around should not be an issue.
So we are still here and our next plans included hiking and using the amazing funicular, cog railway and gondola system. I will make additional entries for those once we have completed and recuperated from them a bit. Until then, stay tuned.
An hour’s drive by car north of Frankfurt above the Taunus mountains you will find a small, quaint and often overlooked little town called Braunfels.
Panorama of Braunfels below – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Braunfels
The town of Braunfels in the Lahm valley in Hessen and on the famous German Timber-Frame Tourist Road. All of the houses in the Altstadt are of this type construction and most are fairly old, sixteenth and seventeenth century.
Ericka and Gabi – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
Houses – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
Main center square – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
Old tower and hotel with shield – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
The Altstadt lays to the east of the castle by the same name. Since it was built on the side of the same hill as the castle, some of the roads are pretty steep. Most are paved with cobbles and there are several signs, mostly if not exclusively in German, reminding visitors that the stones are uneven, slippery when wet, and the town and castle are not liable for any injuries, so watch you step when you visit.
Be Careful – Altstadt and Castel – Braunfels, Germany
The castle may be reached through the town via the Schloßstrasse, or on the other side of the hill via the Burgweg (this is where we parked).
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Kratzsteine
If you ever wondered why old towns such as Braunfels had these many corner stones, or Kratzsteine; the following sign explains it. The interesting thing here is, that although these are very common throughout older German cities and towns, you will not find many examples in Braunfels; making one wonder why someone posted a sign above an example of one, when there are so few throughout the town.
Why old town streets have Kratzsteine or cornering stones – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
The above can be translated loosely in English as the following.
The medieval cities had very narrow alleys, which were only meant for pedestrians and mule drawn carts. When horse drawn carriages came, they had difficulties trying to make the turns without slowing down. The hubs of the wheels or the side of the wagons would damage the buildings. In order to prevent this damage and the high cost of repairs, the home owners had to come up with something. They decided on giant house stones, or Kratzsteine, which were partially buried on the corners of the house. This forced the driver to avoid and swing their carriages wide, so they didn’t risk their wheels getting damaged from these strategically placed corner stones.
Castle Braunfels
Christian Christmas Tradition
In Germany there is an old religious custom on the twelfth day of Christmas, or what is more properly known as the Epiphany. On the evening of or the day of Epiphany the front door of the building is chalked with the pattern “yy * C + M + B * YY”. The CMB is short for the Latin phrase Christus mansionem benedicat, or in English, May Christ bless this house. The YY are the year divided up appropriately.
Epiphany blessing on door to Chapel – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Chapel inside the castle – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Chapel inside the castle – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Chapel organ – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Castle Innards
The courtyard of the castle is fairly large and surrounded by three walls and towers. The inside of the castle is typical for one of this period. The slideshow below finishes our tour of the castle and our visit to this very nice little town in Hessen.
Probably one of the most clean European cities you will come across is the city of Luxemburg in the country of Luxemburg, or as they prefer to spell both, Luxembourg. The people here speak many different languages, including their own. They have to, they are wedged between Belgium, France and Germany and are frequented by tourist from English speaking countries as well.
Looking north – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Luxembourg
The city was created on its rocky perch during the Roman times, most likely due to its excellent defensive qualities. Then later in the tenth century a count acquired the rights to the land and started to build the family’s kingdom. From modest beginnings, the Kingdom of Luxembourg grew from here and became very important because of its strategic position.
Ericka and Gabi leaving hotel – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Avenue de la Porta Neuve – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Avenue de la Porta Neuve – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
City streets – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Memorial – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Main square and bandstand – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
City streets – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Municipal center – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
City streets – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Place Guillaume II – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Interesting building – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Statue of Charlotte Monument – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Remembrance memorial – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Jewish Kadish monument – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Fancy street – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Street view – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
The main shopping street – Grand Rue – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Pescatore – Retirement home – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Roude Pëtz Square – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Interesting building – Grand Rue – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
The city has fortifications and remnants of them on three sides. Some are in better condition than others, but you can at least enjoy the ones that follow the river Alzette.
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There is also a wonderful weir on the river between the Plateau du Rham and the City Center. From here the water flows over a set of rapids making for a very relaxing and shaded place to walk. There is even a bridge that crosses the river here where you may also enjoy it.
Casements of Luxemburg
The casements of Luxemburg city are underground facilities were originally built as passages and storage areas for the former castle of Luxemburg. During World War II, they were used for various purposes by both sides, including shelter during bombings. The one that was open while we were there was called Casemates de la Pétrusse, named after the river Pétrusse. Unfortunately, they were all booked the day we came for the entire weekend, so purchase your tickets early, if you want to go below and enjoy the guided tour of this unusual exhibit. It is located under the Monument of Remembrance.
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The other casement is Casements du Bock which currently is temporarily closed. When it opens, tickets can be purchased for a guided tour and this one is located on Mount de Clausen near the Casement Memorial.
Adolphe bridge – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Muesee de la Banque Tower – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Church of Saint Michael’s
The church of Saint Michael’s has a beautiful set of windows to enjoy. Built in the tenth century and originally named Church of the Redemption, the new and colorful windows were installed after much of the city was destroyed during the war and the new church was reconsecrated as the church of Saint Michael.
Saint Michael’s church – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Inside panorama of Saint Michael’s church – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Stained glass – Saint Michael’s church – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
The other point of interest in this church is the old church turret clock.
Turret clock from 1902 – Saint Michael’s church – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
The city does offer other things to see and do, for those who are so inclined. However, for a short weekend stay, I thought we enjoyed a fair amount of what the city had to offer and enjoyed ourselves immensely. The people are very friendly and fluent in many languages. The city is clean, well cared for and vibrant and there is plenty of history to be found walking among its streets. Being only a few hours drive from Frankfurt and other cities, it is well situated for a weekend trip. Going by train is a bit longer, since there is no direct route and flying is an option, though an unjustifiable cost given the destination and the amount of time one has to spend in airports these days to get anywhere.
Patti and Erick – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Restaurants
One thing that can be said about restaurants in Luxemburg is, eating out is rather expensive. Our opinion is, it’s more in line with eating out in Switzerland or at an expensive restaurant in the United States.
Trattoria Il Riccio
This is a cozy, but expensive little Italian gem on the Rue Beaumont.
Ristorante Il Riccio – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
Ristorante Il Riccio – Luxemburg, Luxemburg
We had an excellent and delicious meal here, complete with two bottles of fairly expensive wine (56€/ea) and the total for four came to 450€. Of course, we all had an appetizer, primi and secondi.
Though we have been in Mainz at least several times, it was before the beginning of this blog. Therefore, after a brief visit to the city to meet our friends and have a walk or stroll throughout the city (also known as a Stadtbummel), a quick mention here seemed almost required.
Day Trip To Mainz
This week we met our good and long time friends Karl Heinz and Isolde in Mainz for lunch and a customary Stadtbummel, if only to see some of the sights Patti has never seen.
Fastnachtsbrunnen – Mainz, Germany
To get there, we had to take the RMV S8 line from the Marktplatz in Offenbach to the Römisches Theater in Mainz. Unfortunately for us, there a typical issue which held the train up for forty-five minutes after we boarded and only went for two stops. Apparently something fell onto the tracks and tripped the signal on the line.
17th Century Fortress – Zitadelle – Mainz, Germany
Karl Heinz – Römisches Theater – Zitadelle – Mainz, Germany
Römisches Theater – Zitadelle – Mainz, Germany
Mainzer Dom
Once the item was removed from the tracks, there were no further difficulties and we reached Mainz with plenty of time before lunch. We toured the Mainzer Dom and the Marktplatz, which are side by side, while we enjoyed the exceptional weather we were having for Germany.
Mainzer Dom – Mainz, Germany
Altar – Mainzer Dom – Mainz, Germany
Side Altar – Mainzer Dom – Mainz, Germany
Saint Ignatius Church
One of the more colorful churches inside is Saint Ignatius church. Though rather plain from outside the inside is definitely worth a look. The baroque style and paintings are impressive.
Saint Ignatius Church – Mainz, Germany
Saint Stephan’s Church
A must stop is Saint Stephan’s church, if only to see the famous church windows designed by Marc Chagall. Once inside, the eerie blue glow that occurs inside a bright sunny day is indeed a treat for the eyes.
Courtyard and St. Agnes Denkmal – Saint Stephan’s Church – Mainz, Germany
Courtyard and St. Agnes Denkmal – Saint Stephan’s Church – Mainz, Germany
Courtyard and St. Agnes Denkmal – Saint Stephan’s Church – Mainz, Germany
Courtyard and St. Agnes Denkmal – Saint Stephan’s Church – Mainz, Germany
Almost totally destroyed during World War II along with the rest of Mainz, the church was rebuilt in the late 1950s. Marc Chargall created a number of stained glass windows from 1978 and 1985 depicting scenes from the Bible.
Chagall Windows – Saint Stephan’s Church – Mainz, Germany
Chagall Windows – Saint Stephan’s Church – Mainz, Germany
Chagall Windows – Saint Stephan’s Church – Mainz, Germany
Restaurants
Since we did not actually stay in the city we only had time with our friends to try the following restaurant for lunch.
Hof Ehrenfels – Mainz, Germany
Hof Ehrenfels
For lunch we ate at Hof Ehrenfels, a stone’s throw away from the Mainzer Dom on Greberstraße. It is actually a three star hotel that also has a very good restaurant with a garden. The four of us ate outside in garden and had Wiener Schnitzel.
Diese Woche hatten wir die Gelegenheit unsere guten deutschen Freunde in Mainz zu treffen. Bevor wir unsere aktuelle Reise begannen, schickte ich meinem Freund Karl Heinz eine E-Mail, um alles zu planen. Und in den letzten Tagen haben wir uns gefreut, dass all unsere Planungen für uns geklappt haben.
Eine Kleine Reise Mit Dem Zug
Da wir eine Woche in Offenbach am Main waren, um unsere Töchter Ericka und ihren Mann Gabriel zu besuchen, mussten wir die DB S8 ab Offenbach Markplatz nehmen, die direkt zur Mainz Romisches Theater Haltestelle führt. Das bedeutete, dass wir von der Wohnung unserer Tochter in der Innenstadt laufen mussten, aber das kein Problem war, denn es dauert nur ungefahr fünfzehn Minuten.
Train Status S8
Nach fast zehn Minuten des Anfangs unserer Reise gab es eine Störung, einen Gegenstand leigt auf den Gleissen und das rotes Stopplicht angeschaltet war. Es dauert 43 Minuten bevor wir unsere Reise fortfahren könnten.
Restaurants
Für Mittagsessen wählten wir Hof Ehrenfels.
Hotel and Restaurant Hof Ehrenfels
Hof Ehrenfels
Dieser restaurant ist auch ein Drei-Stern-Hotel mit einem schönen Garten, den man draussen sitzen kann während man isst.
Perched above the small hamlet of Auerbach, located immediately north of Bensheim, Germany is the castle of Auerbach. The Auerbach Castle is privately owned, maintained and is free to visit. Hiking and walking around its grounds and castle is allowed and encourage by the many structures that have been put in place to reach the upper parts of the castle.
South panorama – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
Auerbach Castle
This is a perfect destination for a day trip, where one can go and enjoy the weather and the beautifully forested grounds of the castle. The castle itself is rather small and may be used to get an excellent view of the surrounding area and countryside beyond.
The way up from nearest parking lot – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
There are plenty of trails – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
Gabi and Ericka – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
We were lucky enough to stop on our way to Frankfurt, and on a day of exceptional weather, where we were able to easily make out the nuclear power plant ten miles away and the hills beyond that, at what must be close to fifty miles away.
North panorama – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
The castle was built sometime in the thirteenth century on what they called the old hill, or Urberg. It was probably partially maintained as a strategic fortification well into the seventeenth century, when it was no longer needed.
Over the next hundred years or so, it fell into disrepair and eventually the north tower collapsed. In the nineteenth century, it was repaired and partially rebuilt, the former bailey[1]A bailey is a protective walled courtyard, usually surrounded by a palisade or ditch outside. being converted into an Inn and eventually taking on its final form we see today. You can actually stay at the Inn even today.
Interior – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
An old window – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
A view of the outside wall – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
North tower gate – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
Old tree – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
The moat – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
The south tower – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
A view of the hills behind – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
The north tower with Zwingenberg – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
South tower and Bensheim below – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
South tower looking south – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
Looking north – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
Inside one the north tower – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
Castle well – Auerbach Castle – Auerbach, Germany
Restaurants
There is only one restaurant on the grounds and a cafe. The cafe is situated outside and you may even bring your own food and enjoy a nice picnic on the tables that have been provided, assuming I would guess, if you buy a drink. The restaurant is inside, has a marvelous outside terrace with overlook and is fully staffed. The restaurant and grounds are capable of actually holding weddings, with the appropriate arrangements, of course. They also occasionally hold dinner theaters and a Rittermahl[2]In the U.S., this would be similar to our Medieval Times, where you get a knight fight and a dinner, while cheering your team on., complete with medieval games.
Auerbach Castle Restaurant
We ate lunch at the restaurant on the terrace, which of course has a commanding view of the countryside below.
Gabi and Ericka – Auerbach Castle Restaurant – Auerbach, Germany
Erick and Patti – Auerbach Castle Restaurant – Auerbach, Germany
They have a very good selection of typical German dishes and the service is also very good and timely. However, I am not sure how much English they speak, since we only spoke German to them and they never attempted to speak English. So if you are an English only speaker and plan to visit, be prepared, you may have to use the point and grunt method of ordering.
We arrived by plane from Catania, Sicily in France’s EuroAirport, also known as the Basel-Mulhouse-Friebourg airport. You arrive via the air and exit in any one of three countries, Switzerland, Germany or France.
Three exits at airport, Germany, Switzerland and France – Basel -Mulhouse-Freibourg Airport, France
A word of caution though, exiting in France, you may find it difficult to get a taxi. We waited for a half an hour and ended up sharing a ride with a Frenchmen that explained to us that exiting via the France exit has the least amount of taxis. Of course, the airport has no information booth and you can’t of course change your mind once you are out.
French exit – Basel -Mulhouse-Freibourg Airport, France
The taxi drive was about five minutes and we were standing at the Saint-Louis la Chaussée train stop, having already purchased our tickets via phone. From there we went to Mulhouse and then on to Strasbourg, again using France’s regional train service, which you can essentially purchase any ticket in the future and still be able to use it for earlier trains.
Main train station – Strasbourg, France
Argantorati
Just barely in France on the border with Germany is the small quaint city of Straßburg, or Strasbourg to the French, and it actually goes by other names to some of the ethnic minorities. The name has German origins and meaning as ‘the town at the crossing of roads‘. It is also the place where the river Ill dumps into the mighty Rhine river.
Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
The original settlement here before the fifth century CE, was known as the fortified silver settlement, a compound of the Celtic arganto for silver and rati for fortification. It was later latinized into Argentium and Argentina, or city of silver, where it is known in numerous texts. What follows is a slideshow of some of the many amazing sites you will see as you walk the city.
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Notre Dame
The town has a huge and wonderfully prominent cathedral called Notre Dame de Strasbourg, also known as the Straßburger Münster in German.
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Its construction began in the late twelfth century and its impressive bell tower and spire were added more than 120 years after the start of construction, which I might add was never completed, since the addition of a second right tower and spire never came to fruition. The outside at night is spectacular, the interior and exterior lighting provide an excellent balance to show the real grandeur of this cathedral.
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Lit up at night – Notre Dame de Strasbourg – Strasbourg, France
Of course, this is balanced well by the stained-glass windows illuminated by the sun in the early morning hours. The interior also houses an ecclesiastical astronomical clock which was built in the early 1570s.
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Get here early, usually before ten o’clock, otherwise the tour groups from the Viking cruises start to assemble and you will have little chance, the line often snakes all the way out the courtyard and around the block!
Palace Rohan
Across the river Ill from our hotel was the Rohan Palace, which houses several museums. We toured the Museum of Decorative Arts, just to get a view of the palace from inside.
Palace Rohan entrance – Strasbourg, France
Palace Rohan – Strasbourg, France
We all found the decorative arts inside the museum a bit avant-guarde for our tastes, but typically French. The interior of the palace for the most part met expectations.
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Pont du Faisan
Built in 1888 this is a working example of an old hydraulic swing bridge. Below is a short video showing it in operation. First the two ends are closed for traffic, then the operator swings the bridge to allow boats through the gate. We were able to see this as a pedestrian and on the Strasbourg sightseeing tour boat. It is a very interesting piece of engineering and on a small scale, perhaps better than raising a bridge.
Ponts Couverts de Strasbourg
This Ponts Couverts is a set of thirteen century covered bridges and towers on the southwest part of the island. Initially a battlement and constructed of wood, the roofs were later removed and eventually the bridges were rebuilt in stone.
The Pont Courverts – Strasbourg, France
At least one of them was made into a prison and it was later told, though falsely, that executions were also carried out there, though there is no evidence of this happening.
The Courvert Towers – Strasbourg, France
Hotel Cour Du Corbeau
A very good hotel that is strategically located close to the old city center in Krutenau is the Hotel Cour Du Corbeau. It is situated just across the river Ill and two blocks away from the cathedral. Parking for cars is only a block away and many restaurants and cafes are within ten minutes walking distance.
An old inn renovated – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
The courtyard and cafe – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Old wooden framing – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Renovated inside – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Since we were arriving by train, we took the D Tram from the Central Station and got off at the Hospital stop. From there we were only a ten minute walk away.
Old spiral staircase – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
The hotel is a smartly renovated and modernized version of an old inn that was used by workmen that worked at the tanneries and other places throughout the city. It maintains many of the old beams and architectural elements of the old building. However, it includes air-conditioning and many other modern amenities.
The lobby – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
The lobby – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Outside courtyard – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Outside courtyard and bar – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Although you may initially find their 27€ price for breakfast a bit steep, it is well worth it since they provide both hot and cold buffet items, as well as a wide selection of coffees.
Old spiral staircase – Hotel Cour Du Corbeau – Strasbourg, France
Restaurants
Being a very busy tourist spot, Strasbourg has a plethora of restaurants, anything from traditional Alsatian food, to Chinese and other cosmopolitan cuisines. So you shouldn’t go hungry, even without a reservation.
Maison Des Tanneurs
The House of the Tanners restaurant was the furthest of all the restaurants from our hotel and took a good fifteen minute walk to reach.
Restaurant – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Restaurant – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Restaurant – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Former names – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Located in the far southwest corner of the island and near the Ponts Couverts it commands a nice view of the river Ill. So, if you want window side seat, reserve your seat early, we arrived at our reservation time and the sign was already posted on the menu outside – totally booked this evening.
View from window – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Inside – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Our appetizers – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Gulash like soup – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
La Choucroute – Heap of sauerkraut and assorted meat – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Tenderloin with sauce Bearnaise and potato croquettes – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
Inside – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
The window view again – The House of Tanners – Strasbourg, France
La Piazza
We ate here on a first night and it is a decent restaurant with pretty good Italian food. We sat inside near the wood burning over, so the pizza they made for us was using the traditional method. The service was fine and our drinks met all of our expectations. However, the toilet left much to be desired, I suggest you become prepared to avoid a visit.
Patti and Ericka – La Piazza restaurant – Strasbourg, France
Gabi and Erick – La Piazza restaurant – Strasbourg, France
The menu – La Piazza restaurant – Strasbourg, France
A nice wine – a Sicilian Nero D’Avola – La Piazza restaurant – Strasbourg, France
Au Tire Bouchon
Another excellent Alsatian restaurant choice is the Au Tire Bouchon. Though it does not have the view the House of Tanners provides, the food is on par with that establishment.
Street entrance – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Alley and back entrance – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Entrance sign – Corkpuller – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Entrance – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
The menu – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Inside – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Beef and mashed potatoes – Au Tire Bouchon – Strasbourg, France
Continuing our journeys on the eastern coast of Sicily, we arrived at Catania. A port city and working town that believe it or not, is even grittier than Naples.
Catania, a panorama – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
Catania
Existing in the shadow of a large, ever erupting volcano, would seem like a fool’s errand. But the people of Catania do it everyday and only give it a second thought. Luckily, the volcano has not had a major eruption in some time, and since it’s monitored continuously, most people try to ignore it.
Map of Catania – Catania, Sicily
Via Etnae – Catania, Sicily
The city has at least one good park near the city center that is easy to visit. The Villa Bellini and Park Maestranze is right off of Via Etnea and has some great views of the volcano and a very quiet place to visit.
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Mount Etna
The presence of Etna is felt everywhere, from the architecture, to the items some of the shops sell, to the very grit you grind under your feet as you walk. Even though as you walk the streets and cannot see it, it will rear its ugly snow-capped head as you round a corner, or ascend some lookout in the city.
A view of Mount Etna from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
Theaters and Baths
Many of the ruins in and around Catania contain theaters and baths from the Greek and Roman periods.
The Roman Amphitheater
A stone’s throw away from our hotel the amphitheater forces all the traffic to go around it. There is not much story behind the amphitheater other than in the fourth century the town’s people had started robbing it stones for building material. Later it was almost completely covered up by a building project in the eighteenth century. It was later rediscovered and preserved as part of an urban archeological site.
Roman Amphitheater – Catania, Sicily
Roman Amphitheater – Catania, Sicily
Roman Amphitheater – Catania, Sicily
Roman Amphitheater – Catania, Sicily
The Roman Baths
Very close to the Greek and Roman Theater are the Roman Baths. They appear to be part of a city walking audio tour, but since we did not visit the information center, we have no other details on the site.
Roman Baths of the Rotunda – Catania, Sicily
Roman Baths of the Rotunda – Catania, Sicily
The Greek and Roman Theater
Labeled the Roman Theater, it was actually established by the Greeks and later rebuilt as a Roman Theater. There is an entrance fee for this exhibit, which again seems to be repurposed for shows. Though there is ample space to take photographs to get a good idea of how it used to look.
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
The Greek-Roman Theater – Catania, Sicily
Churches, Cathedral and Basilicas
There are numerous churches and other religious structures of note all throughout Catania. The most noteworthy one is the Cathedral of Catania.
Church of San Nicolò l’Arena
A large unfinished artifice is the Church of San Nicolò l’Arena. It was started in the late 17th century and interrupted by the large earthquake of 1693. The dome and inside were later completed, but the facade remains unfinished sadly even to this day.
San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
This church has a secret though, for small fee you may ascend its narrow spiral staircase to the roof for its impressive view of the city.
Tickets For Two – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
From this perch you can also get an amazing shot at Mount Etna.
Climbing the stairs to the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
View of Catania Bay from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
View from roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
The belfry tower – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
The roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
A view of Mount Etna from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
A view of Mount Etna and Patti from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
A view of Mount Etna and Erick from the roof – San Nicolo L’Arena Church – Catania, Sicily
A diorama of the Benedictine Monastery – Catania, Sicily
Benedictine Monastery – Catania, Sicily
Benedictine Monastery – Catania, Sicily
it is only open for guided tours and they were completely booked up when we inquired with school groups and other tour groups. We were lucky however to get a glimpse of some of the grounds which is also used as part of the university, which holds lectures on philosophy and other classical topics.
Basilica of Saint Agatha
This basilica has a Sicilian Baroque facade that was designed by Vaccarini in the early 18th century. It has a clock tower and a large piazza outside it to support its impressive entrance.
Basilica Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Basilica Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
The interior is very large and has ten or twelve sub-chapels along its walls. There are three main altars, the two are the sides appear to be lit at all times, while the main alter, along with its wooden pulpit is probably only used to special occasions.
Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Cathedral of Saint Agatha – Catania, Sicily
Our Hotel – Hotel Liberty
This hotel is situated above the main thoroughfare of Via Etnea (Etna) and just outside what would be perceived as the nice part of the city. It is most likely, the nice part of town has moved over time and now it finds itself a bit on the margins; but it is a great four-star hotel and the rooms are really great. The staff is very courteous and knowledgeable. Irons are not in the rooms but are available for those seeking to touch up their clothes after a hard travel.
Hotel Liberty Lobby – Catania, Sicily
Hotel Liberty Bar – Catania, Sicily
Main stairwell – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
We were booked into a luxury room and upgraded to the Estasi suite, it was almost as big as our entire apartment in Turin!
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Our rooms – Hotel Liberty – Catania, Sicily
Restaurants
Like any large city, Catania has a variety of restaurants to choose from, including Asian and other cuisines. Since our stay was so short we stuck with the local favorites and something new as well.
La Taverna Del Grande Albergo
This is a very good restaurant with excellent typical Sicilian food. It has a limited menu, but that’s what makes it so great. What ever is on the menu is delicious. It was so good in fact, we ate here both evenings.
Inside – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Inside – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Ravioli stuffed with ricotta cheese, honey and pistachios – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Spaghetti with clams – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Casatta – La Taverna Del Grande Albergo Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Forma Ristorante
A new kind of boutique restaurant, it has a select menu of typical dishes created with some style. The outside seating is under a very large tree where you can enjoy your food and the great weather. The staff is fairly energetic and responds quickly if you require any assistance or your bill. As with most establishments in Italy, you pay inside at the cashier.
Pizza Margherita and Chicken Club – Forma Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
Espresso and Sambuca – Forma Ristorante – Catania, Sicily
