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HP OfficeJet Pro 7740 Wide Format All-in-One Printer Custom Forms Issue

This short paper outlines a problem that many users have properly configuring forms to print with custom paper sizes on the 7740. This is largely due to insufficient, outdated or wrong information that is contained on many fora and also in the product’s User Guide. The solution hopefully more clearly states the crucial step or steps in the procedure to do this and how to avoid issues.

The Problem

Users who have purchased and use HP’s OfficeJet Pro 7740 Wide Format All-In-One Printer, from here on known simply as the printer, on claims that it supports wide formats, custom forms and other desirable features, quickly find that there are issues with the documentation. Part of the problem is also due to customer’s misunderstanding, or more precisely their lack of knowledge, of printer paper size, forms and how they map to paper sizes, lastly the proper printer and application configurations to use. This paper hopes to ameliorate this misunderstanding.

This paper specifically deals with the custom form issue, as provided by HP’s HP Smart [1]HP Smart is a product and trademark of the HP Inc., formerly Hewlett-Packard Corporation.application on Microsoft’s Windows 10[2]Microsoft Windows 10 is a product trademark of the Microsoft Corporation, Inc. platform, from here referred to as Windows 10. A user cannot set the printer’s paper size to any strange values and expect the related application software drivers to recognize it by defining any custom form, rather they must first understand that this printer has paper size detection, paper size limits and other constraints. Any one of these may prevent the paper size from presenting itself to the user when they finally try to print, using the form that they may have setup.

The HP application software that were used on Windows 10 platform for this exercise were HP Smart, version 134.1.221.0 and the documentation for HP OfficeJet Pro 7740 Wide Format All-In-One series, User Guide, © 2020 HP Corporation.

A Word About HP Smart

The software solution on Windows 10 that HP promotes and supports, is the HP Smart application. In fact, attempts to install the appropriate drivers to make this device work without using this product, normally end in failure. It has become HP’s go-to all-around solution for it’s printer products and HP has adopted this common application approach for it’s entire printer product line, the 7740 being no exception. In order to do so, it relies heavily on the printer’s auto-detection capabilities for paper size and type, which in some cases can severely confuse the end user. This most often occurs due to a lack of understanding on what is going on under the covers. Otherwise, HP Smart appears to be a very reliable and sound application, with respect to the printer in question.

What About HP Support?

The HP Support Team appears to acknowledge users who have trouble with this printer and custom forms. There are numerous anecdotes and stories that one can find with a simple search. However, most of these issues are sometimes not resolved by the support team, who are most likely not developers and rely too much on the documentation, which as has been already asserted, rather vaguely addresses the issue. When faced with a customer’s constant attention to this issue, support will eventually stop responding, or more likely, the customer politely ends the narrative with thanks for trying to help me. At that point one’s only recourse is to peruse the Frequently Asked Questions, or FAQs, on HP’s Support website, in the hopes for finding an answer to no avail.

HP Applications

Installed HP Applications — Microsoft Windows 10

As of this writing, the 7740 and newer HP printers no longer have printer device drivers in Microsoft’s Windows Drivers repository, at least none that work very well. Performing any type of Windows Printer Add procedure and a Windows Update, will reveal only back level, non-supported device drivers[3]A Device Driver is not to be confused with the printer’s firmware, which actually works as designed.. The customer is eventually forced to install the HP Smart application, which in turn installs a printer specific application for HP OfficeJet Pro 7740 Series Printing Properties (desktop icon).

The former, requires an internet connection and an HP Smart account for some functions to work, since it connects to HP’s main website to ensure entitlement to software and product support. The latter, controls operating system specific properties, ostensibly those that HP supports for that platform and product.

The User Manual

All of the User Manual material devoted to this subject on pages 33 and 34, indicate that custom forms are supported and work on Windows 10. However, in actual practice, many of the steps or actions pointed out in the material are erroneous, not available (out of date). However, for those who have a development background, have many years of experience with such printers, or can read between the lines; you can be successful at using custom forms.

The first paragraph on Page 33 under Print on special and custom-size paper implies that if one is unable to set the custom paper size in the application, it is somehow the application’s fault. The truth of the matter is, the custom form size was more than likely incorrectly defined.

Before beginning any of the below, the user should understand that Tray 1 of the printer is also called the Main Tray, it is the only one that can accept custom paper sizes!

The Printer – Setting Custom Paper Size

Setting the paper size for the printer (hardware) can be done in one of two ways, both of which successfully set the paper size to custom. Apparently this setting informs the printer’s firmware that an unknown paper size will be used, or one that cannot be properly detected by the hardware, and to accept any paper size overrides directly from the operating system or application. This is very important to understand. You may set the Main Tray to custom and still print Letter or other predefined paper sizes, as long as they are selected in the application during printing.

Unfortunately the Users Manual does not go into the procedure for loading a custom paper size and how to set the display. At least, a quick perusal of the table of contents or the entire document would reveal it as an omission. One can question whether that implies a lack of support. If that were the case, you would think the documentation would be changed to remain the salient sections for such support on the user’s end.

Printer Console Procedure

To set the paper size to custom manually, using the printer’s LCD console display, perform the following.

    • Standing directly in front of the printer, remove Tray 1 (the top most tray).
    • On the display a message will appear indicating the Tray 1 is open.
HP Printer Console – Opening Tray 1 Message

    • Insert your paper into Tray 1, of course it must be one that fits an accepted width of the printer. For this exercise a sheet 8.5” x 40” was used, the paper inserted tight against the front wall of the tray and the remainder hung out of the top of the printer tray.

    • Upon closing the printer tray the console will change and prompt you to change the paper size setting

HP Printer Console – Modify the Paper Size – Modify

    • Click on Modify to change the paper size (as you can see it has already been set to custom). The next screen will appear where you can scroll down and select Custom (it was the last entry in the list on this printer).

HP Printer Console – Paper Size – Select Custom

    • Click on Custom, the display will change so the user can verify all choices and accept them. For this exercise the paper type used was just Plain Paper.

HP Printer Console – Tray 1 Paper Setup – Done

    • Click on Done. The printer is now set up to accept a Custom paper size for Tray 1.

HP Smart Procedure

To set the paper size to custom, using the HP Smart application on Windows 10, perform the following.

    • From double-clicking the desktop icon or by selecting Start → HP Smart, start the HP Smart application. The application below should appear.
HP Smart – Main Dialog – Printer Settings

    • Click on Printer Settings, the dialog below will appear, showing current printer settings (some have been blurred for security).

HP Smart – Main Dialog – Printer Information

    • Click on Advanced Setting, the dialog below will appear.

HP Smart – Main Dialog – Advanced Settings

    • Click on Settings, the dialog below will appear.

HP Smart – Main Dialog – Advanced Setting – Tray and Paper Management

    • Under Preferences, click on Tray and Paper Management, the dialog above will change to show the current Tray settings for the printer. Using the pulldown, set the Paper Size to Custom.

    • Click Apply and close the application, if no other changes are needed.

Application – Setting Up Custom Forms

Setting up customer forms is the most important setting. However, the instructions that are in the User Manual need an apparent refresh.

Understanding Custom Form and Printer Paper Size

The user must first understand the relationship between the custom form size and the paper size that will be used. To explain this, it is probably best to demonstrate with an example.

Given a printer job that requires a banner to be printed on piece of normal paper cut from a roll of paper and that measures 8.5 inches high by 40 inches long, we can think of this in two different ways.

    1. 40 inches wide x 8.5 inches high
    2. 8.5 inches wide x 40 inches high

As can be seen by the two measurements above, they appear to be the same; and for most practical purposes they are. However, upon closer inspection the user should recognize that the printer in question cannot handle a paper which is 40 inches wide; but it can handle a paper that is 8.5 inches wide and very long. Therefore, when defining the custom form for this particular job, there is really only one solution.

    • Width: 8.5”
    • Height: 40”

The next consideration will be determining how the banner is printer on a paper of the above size. Since our test banner in the illustration above requires it be read lengthwise, the following additional paper property must be considered when printing.

    • Paper Orientation: Landscape

Procedure To Correctly Set A Usable Form Size

Once the above decisions have been made, it is a straightforward matter to map the above values into a custom form and the correct paper size and orientation when printing.

Print on Special and Custom-Size Paper – Page 33

On page 33 there are very specific steps to set up custom forms on Microsoft Windows. They are still valid on Microsoft Windows 10, but with the following modifications.

    • Depending on your operating system, do one of the following:
      • Windows 10: From the Windows Start menu, mouse over to the applications listed on the right, scroll down to Windows System, right-click to expand, select Control Panel.
Control Panel – Devices and Printers
      • From Control Panel, click Devices and Printers, find the HP 7740, then select and click on the Print server properties on the second menu bar.
Control Panel -> Devices and Printers — Select Print Server Properties to Create From
    • The Print Server Properties dialog is displayed below. Check the Create a new form box.
    • Enter the new Form Name for the custom paper size. For this example, the following were used:
      • Form name: Landscape8.5x40
      • Width: 40”
      • Height: 8.5”
      • Printer Area Margins: 0.12” (or something similar, for all four settings)
    • Enter the dimensions of the new paper, along with the printer margins to respect in the Form description (measurements) section.
    • The Save Form button will be highlighted once information is added, click on it to save the form, then press Close
Print Server Properties – Create a new form
    • In the example above, a custom form for a long piece of paper that was cut from a roll of 8.5 inch paper and fed into the Main Tray, also known as Tray 1 (the only tray that supports custom paper sizes), was used. At this point, the custom form has been created successfully.

With the printer paper size now set to custom and a custom form size that is properly set, it should now be an easy matter of using both of these to print the project. If the new custom form size does not appear in your application’s printer paper size as an option when printer, the most likely cause of this is an invalid custom form size.

Application – Using and Printing with Custom Paper Sizes

This section details efforts to test whether or not documents can actually be printed using the new custom forms.

Custom Form Check in Device Setting

As a separate exercise, an easy check to see if the new form will be used by the printer driver, one can easily try and set the default printer properties dialog.

            • To see if the printer driver that was installed by HP Smart will actually detect the new form, we can attempt to adjust the default paper size to use it.

            • As can be seen by the pull-down above, the new custom form size that was created is shown as an option in the list. Checking all other applications, for example Adobe Reader, will lead to similar results.

HP OfficeJet Pro 7740 sereis PCL-3 Default Device Settings

Setting Up Printer Properties for Custom Form Sizes

Regardless of trying to set the default device properties as previously demonstrated, a walk through of the current Users Manual write up on how to use the new custom form must be undertaken. The User Manual states the following on Page 34 for printing with custom paper sizes. This appears to work as written and the user should have no further problems, with the possible exception of forgetting to load paper of unusually long lengths manually. In such instances, it is best to leave paper Tray 1 empty each time, since the printer will remind the user that paper is missing if an attempt is made to print without any.

Print on Special and Custom-Size Paper (Windows) – Page 34

References

References
↑1 HP Smart is a product and trademark of the HP Inc., formerly Hewlett-Packard Corporation.
↑2 Microsoft Windows 10 is a product trademark of the Microsoft Corporation, Inc.
↑3 A Device Driver is not to be confused with the printer’s firmware, which actually works as designed.
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Naples, Italy – National Archaeological Museum and More

National Archaeological Museum of Naples

If you are an archaeological nut and ever have enough time to spend in Naples, you must visit the National Archaeological Museum. It houses an impressive collection from ancient Naples, from its ancient Greek roots through its Roman and Sicilian Empire phases, to the present. It also has a fabulous collection of artifacts from Pompeii and the Roman Period. It is found on the interesection of Piazza Cavour and Via Enrico Pessina. At the time of this writing, it can no longer be gotten to by the Museum Metro Stop, which has been closed for some time, but rather from the Piazza Cavour Metro Stop and then a short walk along that street.

National Archaeological Museum – Main Entrance

The Ground or First Floor – Main Gallery

The main gallery on the ground floor has a unique and amazing collection of statues, mostly from the Roman Period, but there are also more ancient sculptures as well. It features in the back of the hall the Farnese Bull from Roman times.

There are also a few other examples from the Farnese Collection, including Hercules and others. This section is definitely worth a quiet, long walk through with plenty of reading and afterthought. Examination of any one of these magnificent works reveal detail that someone in today’s day and age would think otherwise superfluous, and yet it would not be the work it is today without that fine attention to detail.

Leaving the main gallery and proceeding upstairs you pass the two dominant representations of Ocean or Oceanus, the god the ultimate river – the oceans. It is still not none precisely the etymology of this word and therefore it may not have any antecendents. However, one look at these two figures and you can tell that whomever this god represented, he was a very serious fellow, he had to be the dominate force for all water.

The First Floor – The Mosaic Gallery

Here one can find all sorts of ancient mosaics, however most are from Pompeii. Made of paste and ceramic all are equisitely done in the form of a story to tell the onlooker.

The Third Floor – The Glass Gallery

Has a small, succinct, but very important collection of ancient glass made during the Pompeiien and Roman periods. Some have handwork and detail that cannot be rivaled today.

The Gallery of Pompeiien Erotica

No visit would be complete without a visit to the erotic gallery, where all manner of erotica are on display from the dead city of Pompeii. The Quakers and the Puritans would have had a field day in this city at its peak. Not only was prostitution flaunted as an everday fact in everyone’s face, but the public had personal art created for display and enjoyment in their own houses. Without much else to say the following is shown as a slideshow, feel free to opt-out if you are not up to the intellectual and spiritual challenge.

The Basement Floor – The Maritime Archaeological Gallery

All things maritime are located in the basement floor. A wide collection of maritime artifacts and archaeological specific display can be found in this section. There are also displays from the escavations of Pompeii having to do with the city itself, including is ancient public plumbing.

Restaurants

Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria

A short fifteen minute walk away from the museum, down the Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, Via San Sebastiano and Via Santa Chiara (all the same street mind you), you will find Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria. Another exceptional place with homemade creations to tempt most palettes. We entered this restaurant just before it started raining and were not disappointed, a fine place to visit with nice staff that is definitely NOT a tourist trap.

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Naples, Italy – La Neapolis Sotterrate

In the back of Piazza San Gaetano, alongside the tower, you will find the entry point to a very interesting treat, and a very historically important place for understanding Naples as a city, especially its age. Here you will find the La Neapolis Sotterrate, or the ancient underground marketplace.

La Neapolis Sotterrata – Internal Palazzo with well

The Ancient Neapolis was founded back in the fifth century BCE by the Greeks. Many of the artifacts and architecture of this place date back to this time. The market, or Macellum, was a two story structure that ran along underneath the current structure of the convent which now stands over top of it. Many of the streets in this area start with Vico and not Via, indicating the ancient Greek origins (all streets that start with this have a corresponding ancient road structure beneath them).

The entry fee is minimal and they have guided tours available in English. We found the tour very informative and important in trying to appreciate the age of city of Naples. Here is a slide show with what you will see if you have time to consider this historical adventure.

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Naples, Italy – Cloister Anyone?

There are a few cloisters in Naples worth visiting, if you have the time and interest. Since it was at the end of our trip and we were lacking time, we chose the Cloister of Santa Chiara to visit, which sits right in the middle of the Historic Center and not far from all of the shopping, which we were interested in doing as well.

Cloister – Tickets For Two

Chiostro di Santa Chiara

The cloister is behind a large church which suffered greatly during the allied bombings of Naples in the 1940s. Apparently the church took most of the damaged and the cloister was left, more of less, intact for us to enjoy today.

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Salerno, Italy – Tyrrhenian Jewel

Waterfront – Salerno, Italy

Needing to get out of Naples, if only for a day, we took the train south to Salerno in discovery of yet another ancient city along the Italian Mediterranean Sea. A short train ride of only a half an hour puts you there, three blocks in from from its coastal port and jetties that border the bright blue Tyrrhenian Sea.

We spent a leisurely Monday walking the streets of this nicely kept secret. It is definitely not a tourist destination and you will see few if any here, those preferring Capri, Almalfi Coast and other must-see places on someone else’s list.

Benedictine Aqueducts

The city has one of the most impressive examples of the architecture of the Ogival Arch, which in the ninth century was innovative and rare. It was so uncommon, that superstition around the arches and their use built up over the years, to the point where the town’s people were convinced it was the work of the devil, or at the very least, demons from hell. In any case, the aqueducts were built by and supplied water to the local Benedictine Monastery, and later to a convent in Piantanova.

The Basilica of Salerno is not far from the aqueducts and the Benedictine Monastery. Its most striking feature is the tower, which was built in the Arab-Norman style. The palazzo inside contains a small fountain and its archways are reminiscent of the Florentine style.

A quintessential thing to do, is to walk along Salerno’s Lungomare Trieste and enjoy the beautiful weather and seaside. This exceptional boardwalk continues straight for about five miles and has numerous places to sit and relax among the beautiful palm trees that were planted there long ago.

Restaurants

Taverna Santa Maria De Domno

Perhaps one of the best places I have ever eaten. The Pasta Genovese here is absolutely to die for, I have found none better in Naples and the surrounding area, and I have tried many. The wine list is also very good and you will have no problem selecting a delicious local varietal that grows on the slopes of Vesuvius for your gastronomic pleasure.

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Naples, Italy – For The Love Of Food

The streets of Naples are full of food. There are not only the typical butchers, bakers and even soap makers, but also cafes, ristorantes and all sorts of other odd types of shops (to Americans anyways) selling what I would call contemporary traditional or ancient traditional goods. For example, there is a coffee shop on one street in the historic center that brews coffee using the old, slow drip process – the typical way before World War II (in fact you cannot buy espresso there).

If you are not particular to just meat or seafood, you can also go to the local Tripperia where you may purchase animal organs. In the Market District there are several places to choose from and they sell everything from Tripe, to Stomach and Intestines, to Brains and other blood organs. The Tripe and Stomach display at Fiorenzano’s (like others) was especially interesting, since it had dripping water in the case while the butcher was slicing away at the stomachs and other organs people were ordering.

Fiorenzano’s also has a Friggitoria just down the street, where locals come to purchase quickly fried items that are choosen from the display case. This includes everything from potato fritter like delicacies, to pizza, focaccia and other Neapolitan favorites.

For one day we had a splendid tour of the historic center of Naples with our tour guide Federica. It was a walking tour of the city center that included strategic stops along the way to sample some of Naples’ street food. Some were easier to carry than others and we found ourselves, at least once, stopping to sit at a table to handle some of the more larger entrees we were offered.

In the historic streets of Naples you can walk the streets and find a store with a very common sign stating, “O’Sicchietiell e Muzzarell” in the Neapolitan language. Which is probably not far from the Italian for Ciliegini (shortened version of pomodoro ciliegini), or Cherry Tomatoes and Mozzarella. You may purchase a large or small cup, it comes with a small wooden fork, basilico and extra virgin olive oil and you can just eat them as you walk around.

The famous Sorbillo’s Pizza has another store, which was founded in 1935, where you can purchase the traditional Pizza Fritta. This pizza is actually fried and not baked. It is made almost the same as traditional pizza up to the point – where they closed up all the sides, pinching them closed to ensure none of the ingredients can leak. Then they throw it in a very large frying pan with oil in it. It is served after it has turned a golden brown on brown piece of paper and can be sprinkled with salt or other spices. It is almost like a Calzone, but tastes completely different because of the frying process imparts a different taste to the dough. If you are a pizza lover, it is something you must try at least once.

Another great thing to snack on, either while you walk or to bring home in a bag, are Taralli. At Coppola’s you will find these traditional biscuits along with other great treats. Taralli are made with lard, or fat, and are traditionally spiced with pepper. However, today almost all of the stores add almonds to the mix, in order to impart some extra flavor to this Neapolitan staple. Since they are a bit savory, but usually not salty, the pepper and almond comes through rather nicely.

Sfogliatella, it conjures up thoughts of heavenly gastronomic bliss. We end with this amazing pastry since most people probably are not aware that there are actually two different types. There is the Riccia, which everyone knows and loves with its characteristic million folds of dough (almost like Phyllo dough) which is hard and rather crunchy, with a center of Ricotta Cheese filling. Then there is the Frolla, which is almost the same, except it does not have all the folds in its dough, is softer and has more of a shiny appearance. Both are delicious and it usually comes down to personal preference on which one you like better.

However, we must pause yet again, for most people are probably not aware that the original Sfogliatella did not have a Ricotta Cheese filling, but rather a blander and much easier to eat filling made of semolina dough and hazelnuts and/or almonds. At Sfolgliate you can find this traditional Sfogliatella made the way it was intended. It is, at this time, the only store in all of Naples that adheres to the old tradition. We tried the Riccia and must say, it was delicious!

That’s it for our food tour of historic Naples, hope you enjoyed it and learned something about the delicious food they have to offer but have not exported. I know, sad for us all, but definitely worth a try if you visit.

 

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Naples, Italy – No Bodies Here

Outside the walls of Naples are the catacombs, the ancient burial grounds for the old Neapolis population. Neapolis is the ancient greek name for the city, which eventually morphed into Napoli, or Naples.

There are four known catacombs outside the city, two can be visited, the Catacombs of San Gennaro and the Catacombs of San Gaudioso. However, once you enter you quickly discover, that with some minor exceptions, there are no bodies here. In the former case they were exhumed by the French back in the 1700s and  repatriated, in the latter they were moved to one of the other catacombs that currently cannot be visited.

Catacombs of San Gennaro

About a mile from the old historic district off the Corso Amedeo di Savoia are the Catacombs of San Gennaro.  The largest and least morbid of the two, this catacomb has an expansive underground and very interesting history.  Since a guided tour is the only option possible, you learn all the details of the historical past of this catacomb, and some of the more perculiar fact (if you are willing to ask, e.g. where did all the bodies go – back to France).  Since all catacombs, more or less look the same, here is a slide show.

Catacombs of San Gaudioso

Along the same road, about a fifteen minute walk back toward the city center, are the catacombs of San Gaudioso. These are underneath the Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità and its entrance is actually in the Basilica. This tour actually contains skeletons, bones and sarcophagi buried in the walls, plastered over with their skulls sticking out and broken off (see show for examples).

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Naples, Italy – The Egg And Bourbon Tunnels

Some Sights In San Ferdinando To See

After a thorough introduction to Naples, we decided it was time to see some things we had shoved to one side until we got time.

Castle dell’Ovo

Castel dell’Ovo, also known as The Egg or the Egg Castle is situated in the Bay of Naples.  It used to be a small island, but was attached some time ago to make it more accessible.  Entrance is free, even though you do have to schedule your attendance online. However, aside from the views, there truly is not much to see.  It appears to have been reused for administration and other city or port related uses.

The Bourbon Tunnels

There are tunnels, aqueducts and other underground features all throughout Naples. None has probably had more contemporary use than the Bourbon Tunnels, which were converted and used during World War II as bomb shelters and storage. There are two entrances to this underground museum, for scheduling reason we had to enter Vico del Grottone, the same street that our restaurant below for lunch was on, so very convenient.

The following of our tour is provided uncaptioned, there is more information in the above internet link.

Restaurants

Trattoria da Ettore

This trattoria, as many others outside of the touristy areas, is an excellent little mom and pop restaurant. It has only six tables and when they are full for lunch, you are turned away (the same is true for dinner and probably for most restaurants in Italy, when they are full, they are full, so get there early). It is located on Vico del Grottone and it is figuratively speaking a hole in the wall.

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Naples, Italy – Hiking Vesuvius

It is possible to hike to the summit of Mount Vesuvius. For a modest fee you can put on your best walking of hiking shoes and climb to the summit from within a few hundred meters in elevation. On a clear day, it is totally worth it, not only for the views of Naples but also for that curious look at what might be going on inside the crater. Our guide Federica, from MindTheNap Tours, along with Pasquale our driver took us there for the day. She has excellent knowledge of the volcano, its history and all its eruptions, as well as other off beat information regarding the consecration of the volcano by the church.

The Climb

The ascent is not very rigorous, there are plenty of old people walking up and they do hand out walking sticks, if you are so inclined. Now, on to the slide show for which I have not captioned anything, since most should be self explanatory.

A few short videos while we were on the way up and at the summit. The audio is probably terrible, it was very windy and cold that day.

The trip up, around the crater wall and back down took us a little over an hour. But it can be completed faster, we just happened  to take our time. The drive there on the other hand depends on traffic, which as you can imagine can be problematic in Naples.

Wineries

At the foot of Mount Vesuvius are many wineries, which grew certain types of varietals, aglianico, caprettone and piedrosso, that work well with the volcanic soils.

Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery Russo Family

After our ascent up the mountain we spent a few hours in the afternoon having a tour, wine tasting and lunch at the Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery of the Russo Family. We tasted the following before and during our lunch.

– Rosè Sparkling Wine (100% aglianico grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOP (100% caprettone grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Rosato DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Riserva (80% piedirosso e 20% aglianico grapes)
– Passito Bianco IGT (50% caprettone, 50% falanghina grapes)
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Naples, Italy – A Better Feel

Naples and Vesuvius from Sant Elmo

After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question where exactly you are at any given time. But one thing is for sure, you will find some uniqueness between them all. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place. I for one think it’s a great city and the Neapolitans are fantastic people.

After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question at any given time where exactly your are, but one thing is for sure you will find some uniqueness. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place.

The real hard core vibe of Naples is the juxtaposition of the Centro Storico, or the historic center – with its throngs of tourists, against the backdrop and grittiness of The Spanish Quarter, the pandemonium of San Frenando, Porto and Mercato; and the quiet calm of Vomero and Chiaia. If you are looking for a city with stark contrasts, Naples is the city for you.

Naples – The Spanish Quarter

The Spanish Quarter

The Spanish Quarter obtained its name from the garrison of Spanish that were housed here and given the job to keep order throughout the city. It is entirely made up of narrow streets, passages, stairs and back alleyways that knit this complex community together. Directly alongside the Historic Center on one side and the hill of Vomero, it is quite self contained and apparently, from the looks of things, not very open to change, since from the looks of things nothing apparently has since they arrived.

With dirt and filth comes disease. As the photograph attests to a dramatic outbreak of cholera that swept through this part of the city in the 1800s, leaving behind devastation and death. Even today it is still actively adorned with flowers and other bits of memorabilia for protection, partly due to faith and partly due to superstition. Though all educated people know, it is easily combated with cleanliness and hygiene.

Centro Storico

The old part of the city has the most historical artifacts, churches and other points of interest. It is infested with tourists though, so planning is key. It is best to keep an eye on the number of cruise ships at dock (at any time there can be up to five very large ships docked) and then take your chances that you will have a minimal crowd.

Naples – Statue del Dio Nilo – San Lorenzo

As can be imagined there are a myriad of shops, cafes and restaurants in this area, which is comprised of the San Lorenzo Quarter. It is world famous for its Christmas Alley of Armeno, which is officially known as via San Gregorio Armeno.

Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley

Deep in the heart of the historic center is a street that is known as Christmas Alley. It does not pay to explain, except through pictures.

Vomero

Located on the hill adjacent to Chiaia and the Spanish Quarter is Vomero. Easily reached by taking one of the Funicular Trains from one of three places, Funicular Park in Chiaia, Augusteo in San Ferdinando or Montesanto in the Spanish Quarter. For a reasonable 1.10€ you can ascend to Vomero to visit the sights that it has to offer and enjoy its fine restaurants.

Castle Sant Elmo

In Vomero the Castle of Sant Elmo stands ever watchful over Naples. Known initially as Belforte, it was built sometime in the thirteenth century.

The castle is a sprawling edifice atop the hill commanding a view of all of Naples, including the hills behind it and the entire Gulf of Naples. Fitted previously with large guns, it must have been a formidable deterrent at one time. Visitors can walk the entirety of its parapets with all of its amazing views of the city, the gulf and surrounding islands.

Cloister di San Martino

Just below the Castle of Sant Elmo sits the monastery and cloister of San Martino. Converted into a museum, it too commands a view of the Gulf of Naples.

The museum has a selection of old royal carriages and artifacts from the late Renaissance. From old frescoes, paintings and church memorabilia it houses many religious antiquities from famous Napoletano church leaders. Then there are the creches of Christ’s birth, which are extremely detailed and draw your attention to every little thing that each one of the small characters is modeled to portray.

Restaurants

Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria

One of the place to go apparently in Naples is Gino e Toto Sorbillo’s Pizzeria. Located on via dei Tribunali it gathers a crowd early, so getting there a half an hour or so ahead of time would reduce your wait. During normal times it may even be wiser to queue up earlier. We happen to go during a day when only one cruise ship arrived and got there twenty minutes early and we were about fourth in line. The place is rather large, but by the time we were finished people were waiting outside for some time.

The pizza is simple but amazing. Having never eaten here before, we ordered the recommended Pizza Margherita. With a half bottle of their own red wine and some water we were quite full and happy when we left.

Armando Scartuchio

Armando Scartuchio is a chain of cafes with a rich history and several stores sprinkled throughout the city and a must place to stop. Though we only stopped at one, it must hold mostly true that any pastries made by this company taste more a less the same, no matter where you eat them. We found ours just outside the Spanish Quarter in Montecalvario.

While staying in Naples it is an absolute necessity to stop each day around eleven o’clock or so to have coffee and a bite to eat. This is an excellent place to recharge your morning battery. Still early enough to order two Cappuccino and some very good baked goods, an excuse to drink, eat and further discuss the plans of the day. We ordered a few very interest things we thought we just had to taste.

TrattoriaMalinconico

Situated well out of the way is Trattoria Malinconico. A place not often, if ever, visited by tourists, so they were quite interested and curious when we stopped for lunch.

For starters, this Trattoria is in Vomero, which is on top of the hill. Therefore you must either take one of the three funiculars to get there or climb a very large and then still walk a kilometer or so before reaching it. Even then, it is kind of hidden around the corner from the well established market street on the end of a dead end street in a sort of strip mall.

In any case, the food is excellent and home cooked. Our interest was is getting the most authentic tasting Beef Genovese that we could find and our searches ended us up at this small but excellent establishment. What we found on the menu was actually that, but it was called Pasta Genovese with Meat, also known as Genovese Completa. It didn’t matter, for 8€ we ordered it with a mezzo litro of red wine and ate our hearts out.