Perhaps one of the best times to visit Turin is in the spring. The wind is still blowing from the north, the rivers are full, the trees are in bloom and the swallows and swifts are returning from their long winter stay in Africa. We live close to the river and found you do not need insecticide here, just a healthy population of these birds and you will rarely be bitten.
Springtime – River Po – Turin, Italy
A great time to walk the city and visit its many restaurants and cafes as well as the river Po and Valentino Park. On weekends and holidays there is always activity on the river.
Restaurants
For my readers, some secrets that will help you beat the tourist lines in Turin at the other places and make your stomach very happy.
Il Buongusto
One of our new favorites and right around the corner from our apartment at via Alfonso Bonafous is the local secret, Il Buongusto. Definitely not for tourists, in fact I would encourage only those seeking a Piedmontese experience to drop in. Everything is fresh and made in the kitchen, which is actually open to the restaurant.
IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Be patient, gastronomy takes time and preparation. If you want to be in and out, select something like a salad and water, or frankly go to a fast food place on via Po. Good food takes time and this little restaurant gets very busy. When all else fails, use your Grissini fishing rod to reel in your waitress or waiter for more drinks.
Erick with Fishing Pole Grissini Torinesi – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
The food is very good, the prices are reasonable and the wine list satisfactory, so you can always select a reasonably good wine to keep you busy while waiting. The local house selection includes Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, or Barolo by the glass, which suffice nicely.
Inside – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Kitchen – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Speaking of which, if you really love tomatoes, order the Bruschetta. For the price you get about seven large pieces of bread covered with garlic infused tomatoes and basil, with an olive oil drizzle. Yum.
Bruschetta – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Our food was cooked perfectly, the spaghetti sauce here is uncomplicated and delicious, the cook preferring the amazing Italian tomatoes to tell their own story. I love Italian pasta, um.
Agnolotti with Parmigiano – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Orecchiette with Sausage – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Lunch for (2) two: 30+ to 40+€
La Prosciutteria
On a lark and after a long walk through the Valentino Park and along the other side of the river, we tried La Prosciutteria on Piazza Vittorio Veneto and via Alfonso Bonafous.
Entrance – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
We ordered water, wine, a bruschetta and a charcuterie board. The bruschetta was good, the little olives they used were very tasty.
Bread, Bruschetta and Brunello – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Though I am not a meat eater by nature, the charcuterie here is quite good, especially the Tuscan cheese selections. I would suggest trying the cheeses first au natural, many are exceptional and have delicate flavors. Smearing the honey they provide I found masked their flavors, since none were blue cheeses and were not very strong. The honey by itself was delicious and would be great with a Roquefort, a Blue or similar cheese, but not much with the ones we were given.
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Back Wall – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Esoteric Inside – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
In the end our bill was a bit on the high side, but not bad for a place on the Piazza Vittoria Veneto. Below is an example of what you can expect for two people. The two glasses of wine being the most expensive, similar to what you would find in the States now (it was never like this before, some prices are crazy, though I would say most glasses of local wines are frequently around 4-5€).
Il Konto (Our Bill) – La Prosciutteria – Turin – April 2023
To return to Turin this year, we chose to depart from the Raleigh-Durham area using Delta Airline’s RDU (Raleigh Durham International airport) to CDG (Paris Charles de Gaulle airport, located in Roissy-en-France) flight, as we had done occasionally before Covid-19 hit the world and Delta subsequently cancelled the service. Now that Covid-19 is more or less forgotten, let’s just say travel is back in full swing and with it – other changes, delays and of course cancellations. So if you are planning any international travel this year to Europe or anywhere for that matter – grit your teeth, hold onto to your hats and try to be flexible.
River Seine – Pont Marchand and Pont Neuf (behind) – Paris
The Disadvantages Of Flying From A Small International Hub
One of the major disadvantages of flying out of a minor or small international hub like RDU, is that, if there is any type of problem, any delay longer than an hour or so, especially due to a mechanical issue, can and often do become cancellations. This happened to us early last week after we boarded our plane. About ten minutes after being on board, Delta discovered what they thought was a refrigerant condensation leak, which in the end turned out to be a fuel leak. Really?! The plane had landed hours before and was being turned around for its return trip and they discovered this issue only moments before we were planned to take off. My wife and I could not believe what we were hearing. In fact, the flight crew were also so surprised, the pilot came out to address us personally and answered any questions.
Well I guess it’s better they discovered the issue before we left, then while we were over the Atlantic. It just makes one wonder if we should be worrying more about the inspection schedules of these aircraft, regardless of their safety records. In any event, our delay of one hour turned into three hours, then five and then they finally cancelled to flight within an hour of the first announcement. The primary reasons; no spare flight crews available locally and they could not fix the plane in Raleigh.
Luckily, we had already left the gate and decided to get our luggage pulled from the plane, which is a long story in and of itself (we ended up only getting one and had to come back the next day for the other one). Even after getting the jump on everyone else, we still left the airport around midnight to return our son’s apartment and rescheduled our flight out a week (Delta was not pleased with us, but it was their fault and they still paid with extra points, etc.).
Six days later we arrived in Paris without incident and took a taxi into the city to our hotel. Since we are IHG members we booked and stayed at the Holiday Inn – Gare de Lyon. Rated a four star hotel, it is more likely a three star hotel posing as a four star. We have stayed at many privately run three star hotels that were better run and better appointed. However, it was clean, the rooms are fairly spacious and there is easy access to the metro and plenty of restaurants nearby. Moreover, it is away from the most tourist visited areas of the city. Given all this, I still would NOT recommend it. There have to be better hotels and choices available, if one has the time to look. Plus it is missing some important amenities for an American hotel, if you look close enough to notice.
Tickets For Two, Metro – Paris
Though we took a taxi from and to the airport, I would recommend the RER instead. Traffic in Paris is a nightmare. Though the taxi is not in itself expensive, the travel time will be at least an hour each way. Almost all the roads coming into Paris on many phone map apps will be red or worse yet, dark red, and for twenty or so minutes of our ride we were motionless.
Paris – The City of Light
Our original plans were to spend a week in Paris, but with our cancellation, those plans had to be altered and we only got to spend two days. However, with all of uproar over raising the retirement age here and the never ending threats of strikes, train and venue cancellations, and all of the protesting; it was probably a good idea to cut this trip short and just plan it for another time. In any event, since I have already been to Paris a few times, I was able to show my wife a few of the most notable sightseeing locations, while occasionally enjoying the food.
The Bastille – Paris
Our Short Tour Of The City
The city is eminently walk-able and has an excellent metro. The metro can take you almost anywhere and everywhere you want to go, including back to the airport via the RER. However, in order not to miss anything, you will find walking the best option. We found walking out and taking the metro in between to be the best combination.
Rue de Rivoli – Paris
The Seine and Hotel de Ville – Paris
Hotel de Ville – Paris
House of the Moyen Age – Paris
House of the Moyen Age, Closeup – Paris
Rue Francois Miron, House of the Moyen Age – Paris
The Champs Elysees
This large boulevard is a common venue for the final day of the Tour de France. With its rectangular trimmed trees along each side and four lanes of traffic, it connects two of the city’s main points of interest – the Arc de Triomphe and the Place de la Concorde.
Champs Elysees – Paris
Arc de Triomph – Paris
The Eiffel Tower
Unfortunately we were unable to see the tower at night due to scheduling constraints, and even then, only at a distance. Even from across the Seine it is still impressive.
The Eiffel Tower – Paris
Notre Dame
Yet another reason to come back at a later time, the poor Notre Dame, victim of a senseless fire, being reconstructed. Being complacent about anything, will always get you in the end. Yet sometimes to get politicians to act on anything requires a tragedy.
Construction, Notre Dame – Paris
Side Repairs, Notre Dame – Paris
Notre Dame – Paris
Restaurants and Cafes
Due to our shortened stay, we were only able to visit one restaurant of note and it wasn’t even French. However, we were able to stop at several small cafes for breakfast and lunch. All were reasonable priced and the food was very good.
Breakfast, Coffee and Croissants – Cafe Francais – Paris
Patti at a Cafe for Breakfast – Cafe Francais – Paris
Onion Soup, Lunch – Cafe Gribouille – Paris
Ristorante Spiga
A very small Italian restaurant a block away from our hotel on the Rue Parrot. It has very little room inside or out, so get there early.
Ristorante Spiga – Paris
The food is very good and ostensibly traditional Sardinian. Italians may find it odd that they have pasta dishes with meatballs, instead of separately. Not a show stopper for me, their sauce was very good and the pasta was cooked to perfection.
Ristorante Spiga – Paris
Rigatoni with Polpetti (meatballs), Ristorante Spiga – Paris
With the weather getting nicer, my son and I have been having amazing rides to Jordan Lake and back. Here are some of many rides in early 2023 that we have taken, these were especially great due to the beautiful weather we enjoy with modest temperatures in North Carolina.
Our Routes
The graphic below shows the basic route. We try to select roads based on overall condition, but we usually to go to Jordan Lake or that area and back.
Morrisville to Jordan Lake route
Our Rides
The below videos are from numerous rides we have taken thus far, especially when the route is a bit different. I will be updating this list, as we add new rides throughout the spring.
We really enjoyed Prague and because of the Vtlava River running through it, it really reminded us of Turin, though not as laid back.
Prague – The City from Letna Park – Panorama
Not only are there plenty of things to see and do, the city has many restaurants, more than one would think. One can find anything to eat, from Vietnames and Chinese food to all varieties of European cuisine.
The city also has a lot of parks in it, where one can go and enjoy a quiet walk, while admiring some of the monuments and art work that abound in this quiant little eastern European city. We leave you with a parting slide show and a few more restaurant reviews.
Prague – Holiday Market
Prague – Moderní fontána
Prague – Interesting Building
Prague – Interesting Building
Prague – Interesting Building
Prague – Interesting Building
Prague – Interesting Building
Prague – Childrens Fountain
Prague – Franciscan Gardens
Prague – Franciscan Gardens – Fountain Boy with Shell – fontána Socha Chlapec s mušlí
Prague – Looking toward Saint Wenceslas Statue and Narodni Museum
Prague – The Vltava River from Stefanik Bridge
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower from Stefanik Bridge
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower and Ministerial Government BUilding from Letna Park
Prague – Letna Park
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower and Ministerial Government BUilding from Letna Park
Prague – The City from Letna Park
Prague – Statues in Letna Park
Prague – Statues in Letna Park
Prague – Metronome in Letna Park
Prague – The City from Letna Park
Prague – The City from Letna Park
Prague – The Cech Bridge
Prague – Interesting Building near Cech Bridge
Prague – Typical Cupola on Building
Prague – Franz Kafka Statue
Restaurants
La Veranda Ristorante
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant
For our final day together, the four of us were lucky to stumble upon La Veranda Ristorante, a high end Michelin starred Italian restaurant with excellent food and wine. We spent a few maverlous hours enjoying lunch here, and if you have the chance, you should too!
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Inside
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Front
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Rolls with Black Garlic and Salted Butter
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Patti
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Mushroom Soup
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Gabi’s and Ericka’s Lamb with Whipped Potatoes
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Patti’s Trout with Buckwheat and Foamy Rice
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Erick’s Tenderloin Special with Spinach and Liver Paté
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Espresso with Sambuca
Prague – La Veranda Restaurant – Chocolate Fondant Cake with Roasted Plum and Raspberry Sause and Vanilla Ice Cream – Apple Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream and Puffed Raisins
The Black Elephant Restaurant
Prague – The Black Elephan Restaurant – Front
A truely traditional Czech restaurant, offering all of the local favorites. We expressely stopped in because they advertized and offered Roasted Pig Knuckle, or as the Bavarians would say – Schweinshaxn, which Patti definitely wanted to have before we left.
Prague – The Black Elephan Restaurant – Dining Room
Prague – The Black Elephan Restaurant – Menu
Prague – The Black Elephan Restaurant – Schweinshaxn
Prague – The Black Elephan Restaurant – Greek Salad with Chicken for me
Above the city lies Petrin Hill. A walk of a little over a kilometer and about three hundred steps (if you happen to go that way), or you can take the funicular (which we found to be very crowded on the Sunday), so we walked.
Prague – Hunger Wall on Petrin Hill
Prague – Hunger Wall on Petrin Hill
Prague – Hunger Wall Gate to Gardens on Petrin Hill
Prague – Gardens on Petrin Hill
Prague – Gardens on Petrin Hill
Prague – Three Dome Stefanik Observatory on Petrin Hill
Prague – The Stefanik Observatory on Petrin Hill
Prague – Aviation Monument next to Stefanik Observatory on Petrin Hill
The nice thing about walking, aside from someone you don’t know breathing on you in a confined space, is you get to see things along the way the others in the funicular won’t. Plus, if the weather is nice, it’s actually quite a nice way to spend a Sunday morning.
Prague – Funicular on Petrin Hill
Prague – Chapel of Boziho hrobu on Petrin Hill
Prague – Calvary Chapel and Saint Lawrence Church on Petrin Hill
Prague – Saint Lawrence Church on Petrin Hill
Prague – Fourteenth Station of the Cross on Petrin Hill
Prague – Park on Petrin Hill
Prague – Park on Petrin Hill
Prague – Park on Petrin Hill – Gabi, Patti and Ericka descending stairs
Prague – Park on Petrin Hill – US Embassy to the left
After Petrin Hill, we continued our walk along the river a bit, before going across the Legion Bridge. Here we watched the river boats enter the river lock mechanism, in order to continue their journeys up the river.
Prague – Legion Bridge
Prague – Legion Bridge – Boat Lock
Prague – Legion Bridge – Boat Lock
Restaurants
Luka Lu
If you are looking for good food while dining in a very off-beat interior, look no further than Luka Lu’s. Located on Újezd street in Mala Strana, it is an excellent place for lunch.
Prague – Luka Lu
After our journey through the park and Petrin Hill, the four of us stopped for lunch. The food at Luka Lu’s was very good, service was great and the off-beat interior somewhat of a treat. If you are looking for something different, this might be the place for you. The prices were very reasonable too!
There are a few places in Prague that still have the medieval charm. One is a museum, the other is a restaurant. But if one is paying attention as they walk around, they will find little medieval curiosities hidden away. It only requires a bit of exploring to find them.
The Old Town Square
The most remarkable thing about the Old Town Square is its small size. It is surprising that such are large medieval city would have such a small square.
Prague – Old Town Square – Jan Hus climbing monument
It does however have several remarkable points of interest and beautiful building contained or encircling it.
Prague – Old Town Square – The West House – House of the Minute
Prague – Old Town Square – Tyn Church
Prague – Old Town Square – Church
Prague – Old Town Square
Prague – Old Town Square – Painted Building
Prague – Old Town Square – West House
The Astronomy Clock
One of the main attractions in Prague is the Astronomical Clock. Aside from its obvious technical fascinations and color, it of course does not move a lot. That does not prevent many from craning their necks staring at it for more than an hour, hoping in vain for the clock to do something. However, the clock being based on a twenty-four hour daytime standard does move, but ever so slowly.
Prague – Old Town Square – Astronomical Clock Tower
Prague – Old Town Square – Astronomical Clock Tower
The Speculum Alchemiae
This museum offers guided tours through a historical alchemist’s shop, containing all of the accoutrements of the trade.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Tickets For Two
There are flasks, alembics, beakers and glass containers of all shapes and sizes littered throughout the shop.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Outside
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Flasks
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Alembics and other Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Store Front
The tour begins the shop and quickly advances through a door and small hallway to the alchemist’s study.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Hallway Pictures
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Hallway Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study with door closed
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Desk
After a twenty minute talk on the herbs and other potions of the alchemist’s trade, as well as a short discussion on books, the tour commenced through a secret opening in the bookcase.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
A creepy spiral staircase takes you downstairs into a dungeon like area full of workshops, each for a specific purpose.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Restaurants
If it was not mentioned before it will be now. If you are interested in any particular restaurants for dinner, make sure you book reservations beforehand. Most of the good ones book up quickly, some times days in advance, so make the call or send the request as soon as possible to get your table.
There are many fine restaurants in Prague and from what I can tell, they have all earned their stars. However, that’s not to say you will go hungry, if you do not make the proper arrangements. There are still numerous restaurants around of all types that might have an empty table, you just may have to do some walking.
There are also street food options, for both lunch and dinner. So, if you are not particular about sitting down, you can consider them as a viable option. As a last resort there are always fast food corporate options, but again, go local if at all possible and enjoy the native cuisine.
Prague – Holiday Market – Rotisserie Pork
The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
The first impression from outside is the establishment looks a bit odd, with a figure of a man outstretched from the basement. Once our interests were peaked, we had to investigate further and finally made reservations for the following day when the remainder of our party could join.
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
I have never been in a more dark or gloomy restaurant as this one, lending it a bit of medieval charm. Lit, more or less, only by candle light, it’s no wonder humanity made it out of the Dark Ages.
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Inside
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Inside
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Menu
Participants should be aware, certain meals do not come with utensils and all of the beers come with a customary bang on the table. Some have been known to break their glasses, which is strangely allowed. The meals are, shall we say, good but very basic – they won’t be earning any Michelin Stars for their cuisine.
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Lentil Soup
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Roasted Chicken
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Baked Fish
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Gulash and Dumplings
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Gabi and Ericka
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Patti and Erick
Alforno Focacceria
Also known in Czech as Petrské náměstí, is situated on Petrská, just behind our hotel. We picked another Italian restaurant since they are pretty wide spread throughout the city and the actual Czech cuisine is a bit limited.
Our first few days in Prague introduced us to another city of towers, of which eight have some import. It is also a city severed by a river, the river Vltava, which flows into the river Elbe. This river is also a hub of tourism, having several river boat companies plying its waters.
Prague – Panorama of the city
Prague – Some Of The Sights
One can say that Prague is a very easy city to walk. It is well marked and there are plenty of street signs to indicate along the way where the most important landmarks are to see.
Prague – Municipal House
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets
Prague – Old Town Square
Prague – Old Town Square – Jan Hus climbing monument
Prague – Old Town Square – Church
Prague – Old Town Square – West House
Prague – Old Town Bridge Tower – Monument
Of course, just ambling your way down the city streets works too, which in most cases will lead to some kind of a surprise when you round a corner. Here is a short slide show as we did one of our unguided walks.
Prague – Holiday Market
Prague – City Street
Prague – City Street
Prague – Town Square with Holiday Market
Prague – Main Cable Car Street
Prague – Town Square with Holiday Market – Municipal House
Prague – Municipal House
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets – View of Old Town Tower
Prague – Old Town Square
Prague – Old Town Square – Painted Building
Prague – Church of our Lady before Tyn
Prague – Church of our Lady before Tyn
Prague – Church of our Lady before Tyn – Door Handle
Prague – Old Town Square – Jan Hus climbing monument
Prague – Old Town Square – Info Center ceiling
Prague – Old Town Square – Info Center ceiling
Prague – Old Town Square – West House
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – The old red Prague tram
Prague – Interesting house facade
Prague – Interesting house facade
Prague – Church
Prague – Street in Mala Strana
The Klementinum
Of some interest is the Klementinum, an old medieval Dominican Monastery that was later converted into a Jesuit college.
Prague – The Klementinum
It was here, sometime in 1775, that a Jesuit scholar started recording the first set of unbroken climate measurements in eastern Europe. It also houses an impressive Baroque libraries in the world.
Prague – The Klementinum
Prague – The Klementinum – Courtyard
Prague – The Klementinum
Prague – The Klementinum – Art
The Towers
There are essentially eight towers of import within the city. They include:
The Old Town Bridge Tower
The Lesser Town Bridge Towers
The Old Town Hall Tower
Mirror Maze
Powder Gate Tower
Petrin Lookout Tower
Saint Nicholas Bell Tower
The New Mill Water Tower
The above are all marked on the city map that can be obtained from the city’s InfoPoint center. There are also numerous other lesser towers that can be found when roaming the city, some of which like the above can be ascended.
The Old Town Bridge Tower
From the Old Town in the direction of George’s Bridge one will next come upon the Old Town Bridge Tower. It was completed some time after 1385 and before then end of that century. It has seen a lot of history pass through its portal, wars and coronations alike.
Prague – Old Town Bridge Tower
The Lesser Town Bridge Towers
On the other end of George’s Bridge is the Lesser Town Bridge Towers. Each tower is unique, the one on the left, as viewed from the bridge, is in the Romanesque style and dates from the 12th century. The taller tower is Late Gothic and dates from 1464 and can be ascended.
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
The Mirror Maze
The Mirror Maze is not a tower, just a building that houses a fun-house for children and adults that contains mirrors. It is similar to mirror houses found at many state fairs in the United States.
Prague – The Mirror Maze
Powder Gate Tower
Prague – Powder Tower – Tickets For Two
Probably one of the first towers you will go see is the Powder Tower. You can purchase a ticket and view the city from this tower for a modest fee of about 3€.
The Powder Tower is so named since they used to store gun powder in it. It has also historically be the starting point of any coronation ceremonies held by the Bohemian Monarchs who entered the city, the ending point being the Prague Castle on the hill.
The building was first started in 1457 and finished some time later. It was not finished until the early seventeenth century. It stands at an impressive 195 feet, provided a excellent view of the surrounding city to anyone who ascends its claustrophobic spiral staircase.
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate
A slide show to show our ascent and the rest of Prague from the vantage point of the viewing deck at 44 meters.
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate – Patti ascending
Prague – Powder Gate – First Level
Prague – Powder Gate – First Level
Prague – Powder Gate – First Level
Prague – Powder Gate – First Level
Prague – Powder Gate – Second Level
Prague – Powder Gate – Second Level
Prague – Powder Gate – Second Level Ceiling
Prague – Powder Gate – Second Level Ceiling
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level and Roof
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level and Roof – Art Work
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level and Roof – Art Work
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Outside
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Views from above
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Views from above
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Prague Castle and Saint Vitus Cathedral
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Sights
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Views from above
Prague – Powder Gate – Patti descending
Petrin Lookout Tower
The lookout tower is on top of Petrin Hill and can be found either by walking up the park paths and stairs, there are multiple ways of reaching it; or by using the Ujezd to Petrin funicular. Though we did not ascend the tower, a pretty fantastic view can be enjoyed by doing so.
Prague – Petrin Lookout Tower
Saint Nicholas Town Bell Tower
Almost a pyramidal tower in look, the tower of Saint Nicholas can be found close to the Prague Castle and is part of Saint Nicholas’ church.
Prague – Saint Nicholas’s Town Bell Tower
The New Mill Water Tower
A six minute walk from our hotel and close to the Stefanik Bridge is the New Mill Water Tower. The tower was built in 1658 to supply water from the Vltava River to the lower portion of Prague.
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower
Saint Peter’s Bell Tower
This is a lesser tower not actually listed in the sightseer’s guides. However, due to its proximity to the hotel, it was easy enough to visit and take a few photographs.
Prague – Saint Peter’s Bell Tower
Prague – Saint Peter’s Bell Tower – Back
Henry’s Tower
Another lesser tower not on Prague’s official sightseeing list, but on some map, is Henry’s Tower. This tower is pretty close to the main train station in Prague and the Jindřišská tram stop, that is often jammed with trams waiting to go down the street of the same name.
Prague – Henry’s Tower
Art Deco Imperial Hotel
The Art Deco Imperial Hotel is a fine hotel situated just outside the old town, which is a mere ten minute walk away. The rooms are spacious, definitely big enough to relax in and the bathrooms, at least in the room that we were given, are all marble with all of the contemporary conveniences.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco
It is also very nice that the Imperial Café is part of the hotel, making breakfast a very simple and convenient affair.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Bronze
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Entrance to Imperial Café
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Stairs
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Elevators
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Stairs
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Hall
Restaurants
Of course, it is a bad habit, but I normally only comment on restaurants or cafés that can be recommended. Since Prague is such a tourist destination, one has to be careful choosing a restaurant here, not all of them serve a quality product. In that event, always go natural, preferring a salad over a different product like sausage, etc. In most cases you will not go wrong.
Imperial Café
On our first night in Prague we ate at the Imperial Café, which is part of the Art Deco Imperial hotel. This café is known for its amazing and beautiful tiled walls and ceilings.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Imperial Café
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Patti at the Imperial Café
A highly rated café which has obviously earned its stars. It also comes with baggage or purse stools, so that bags, pocketbooks and other paraphernalia you are carrying, doesn’t have to touch the floor.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Bag Stool provided at the Imperial Café
The service and food were excellent, so we had to try it out. We were not disappointed.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Onion Soup
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Beef Wellington
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Patti’s Chicken Breast with Ratatouille and Whipped Potatoes
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Strawberries with Vanilla Ice Cream and Whipped Cream
La Bottega Linka
A one minute walk from the Art Deco Imperial Hotel is the Italian Restaurant La Bottega Linka. The restaurant offers a combination of Italian, Czech and cosmopolitan dishes, as demanded most likely by tourist. However, the food and service are more than satisfactory, though the prices do suffer a bit from tourism area up charge, but still modest.
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Main Counter
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Ribeye with Potatoes
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Erick and Patti
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Gabi and Ericka
In keeping with our travel recommendation about train travel, as opposed to taking a plane, we took the ÖOB Railjet train from Vienna in Austria to Prague in the Czech Republic. We just feel it is a quicker solution for short to medium destinations, when you take into account all the nonsense and preparation you must do to travel by air, which usually takes anywhere from two hours on each end. It just isn’t worth the effort to us for a one hour flight, when if you could use the time to enjoy the countryside or read a good book.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
On To Prague
Our next destination was Prague, where we are to meet my daughter and son-in-law. We left our hotel and using a taxi reached the main station in Vienna in about fifteen minutes. The main train station in Vienna is a very modern facility and connected to the U1 metro and the D Line of the Tram network, so there are multiple ways to reach it.
The Bucolic Czech Countryside
Of course, the Austrian and Czech Republic countrysides in this area of Europe are very similar, being mostly agricultural, with some natural reserved areas and wooded areas.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
Austrian ÖOB Railjet Train – First Class
Austrian Countryside
Arriving in Breclav – Our First Stop
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Arriving in Brno
Czech Republic – Arriving in Brno
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Here are also a few videos I shot while enjoying the ride.
Some Recommendations
Upon reaching Prague, we decided to walk with our luggage to the Imperial Hotel, which is about fifteen minutes from the station. Though it can be done, and we actually did it, I cannot say I advise doing it. The Czech streets, in this area and most walkways in the older part of the city, are paved using a special highly contoured version of Sanpietrini, which is actually very difficult to pull your luggage on. It probably also raises hell with wheels on your luggage. So, a word of caution, what you see on the walkway immediately leaving the train station will last until you reach your hotel. That would be the time to seriously contemplate going back and getting into a taxi. Happy travels!
Below the cacophony of Vienna’s innere Stadt, the Resselpark, Karlskirche and the Kärtner Ring is a rather large conglomeration of museums, gardens and fountains is the Belvedere Palace.
Belvedere Palace and Gardens
Belvedere
The palace and its gardens are divided in two, known as the Oberen (Upper) and Unteren (Lower) Belvedere. Between them one can find the exceptional gardens of the palace called the Belvedere Gardens. To the right of this are also the Botanical Gardens, which we did not have time to visit.
Belvedere Gate Entrance
Belvedere Gardens – Upper and Lower Belvedere Museums – Tickets For Two
Upper Belvedere
This museum holds the primary collection of the Belvedere, including many famous artists, Austria’s own Klimt and others like Monet, Rodin and Schiele. Words cannot describe what a slow walk and intense focus on these works feels like unless you visit these works in person. Second best is a slide show on those pieces that I found the most moving and interesting of the collection, enjoy.
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Stairway
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway – Medusa Gorgon
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway – Stheno and Euryale Gorgons
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall – Panorama (distorted)
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Donner – Venus in the Forge of Vulcan
Upper Belvedere Museum – Platzer – Rebecca at the Well
Upper Belvedere Museum – Brandt – Castle Ruin and Horse Cart
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schinnagl – Morgen
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schinnagl – Abend
Upper Belvedere Museum – Portrait Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Other works
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schaller – Adolescent Cupid
Upper Belvedere Museum – Other Marble Works
Upper Belvedere Museum – Rodin – Bust of Gustav Mahler
Upper Belvedere Museum – Monet – Path in Garden of Giverny
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt – Flowering Poppies
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt – Schloßkammer in der Attersee
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schloßkapelle – Castle Chapel
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schiele – Die Umarmung – The Embrace
Upper Belvedere Museum – Kolig
Upper Belvedere Museum – Ethofer – Café Tomaselli in Salzburg
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schindler – Saw Mill in Morning Mist
Upper Belvedere Museum – Charlemont – Inside a Hammer Mill
Upper Belvedere Museum – Thoren – Cow attacked by Wolves
Belvedere Gardens
A marvelous September day, a breeze with some chill and a beautiful garden go hand in hand, especially when you can share it with someone; in this case, my wife.
Belvedere Gardens
Belvedere Gardens – View of Lower Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens – Upper Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens and Reflecting Pond
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Step Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Belvedere Gardens – View of Vienna
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Patti in the Gardens
We had a great time just slowly walking through the gardens and listening to the fountains, enjoying the landscape[1]Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023. and the stillness that you do not get in other parts of this very busy city.
Lower Belvedere
This part of the museum contains more off-beat art works. Mostly contemporary artists and works, the Joseph Rebell collection, which goes back to the early 1800s, is extremely good and important. His landscapes of Naples, Vesuvius and other parts of the Mediterranean. Again, it is best to view these works in the context of a slide show.
Lower Belvedere Museum
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Bielik – Tree with Lights
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Wisinger-Florian – Prater Alle im Herbst
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Bielik – Burning Tree
Lower Belvedere Museum – Fischer – Heart of Reality
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits of Joseph Rebel
Lower Belvedere Museum – Old Horse Stables
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
That concludes our visit to Vienna. We found it a fast paced interesting place to visit that eagerly welcomes tourists. Extremely cosmopolitan where it is easier to find an Italian restaurant than a traditional Viennese one, but such is the price of progress and tourism. For that, one might have to venture further, perhaps to Graz, or even Güssing in Burgenland.
In Vienna, as with many older cities in Europe, there are interesting things to see not only above ground, but below as well. Today was a rainy day and we had to deal with as best we could, that could have meant museums, but everyone else had that idea. In attempt to continue to avoid crowded place, whenever possible, we decided on the offbeat.
Vienna – Vermählungsbrunnen
Schweizertor – The Swiss Gate
The swiss gate is the oldest gate or door and part of the Hofburg, dating back to the 1300s. It is part of the original square castle that included four turrets on each corner. It’s not much to see, but is a remarkable color red.
Vienna – Schweizertur – Swiss Gate
Die Ankeruhr
The Anker Clock is located on Hoher Markt, next to the Judengasse.
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr – Legend
It chimes and performs a small show every noon time, otherwise all you will witness is an hourly chime, as follows.
Kapuzinergruft – Kaisergruft – Habsburg Tomb
If you are at all interested in the Habsburgs, and perhaps where they might be buried, look no further than the Kapuzinergruft. Also called the Kaisergruft or Habsburg Tomb, it is located on Neuer Markt and next to the Kapuziner Kloster.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Kaiser Gruft or Crypt – Tickets For Two
The gruft contains many of the families of the Habsburgs and Habsburg-Lothringen and includes a genealogy of the members who rest in this place. Some of the coffins also have amazing details, most of which have to do with wars[1]I sometime wonder when we are going to get over or need for that exercise in futility.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Habsburg Genealogy
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Restaurants
Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Lounge
If you stay at the Grand Hotel Wien, you should look into any combination package that offers breakfast. Unless you are an extremely light eater in the morning, you will not do much better outside. They have a hot and cold menu (buffet), and the portion size is well managed, so you won’t have to worry about walking around with a lot of extra weight.
Vienna – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast
Café Central
One of the oldest cafes in Vienna, the Café Central is located in the old Palais Ferstel building on the corner of Herren- and Strauchgasse. Famous personages like Freud and Trotsky have visited this establishment, though today the conversations today, one could say, are less political or analytical.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Building and entrance
We made reservations for lunch and commend anyone do that same. The line waiting to get in can be long and when it rains out, as it did today, you do not want to find yourself getting wet before sitting down after a twenty or so minute wait.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Show case at entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Looking toward entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Patti enjoying lunch
Vienna – Cafe Central – Main Room
The food is good and traditional. I can commend a good red wine from Burgenland called Blaufränkish, which is served by the glass for around 5.50€. It is an excellent accompaniment for Wüstchens and Gulash soup. It is very busy, so service can be intermittent at times, so be patient.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Würstchen platter and Maygar Gulash
Vienna – Cafe Central – Apfelstrüdel – a local and personal favorite