Before leaving Linz for Budapest, we had to get a bite to eat. What better place is there than a Jindrak Konditorei? There appear to be satellite pastry shops of this company all over the city, including very close to our hotel.
Inside – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria
Breakfast – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria
Apple Strudel – Jindrak Konditorei – Near Hotel – Linz, Austria
Shortly afterwards, we were on the road for a four hour drive into Hungary. In about two hours we left Austria for Hungary and the Budapest signs started appearing quite regularly.
Driving to Budapest leaving Austria
Budapest
Entering any city, anywhere at rush hour, is normally not a good idea, but we hardly had a choice. In any event, it went rather smoothly considering the bridges from Buda into Pest and all of the one-way streets. Soon we were at our destination, the Mystery Hotel.
Arriving at hotel – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Entrance – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
The Hungarian people are extremely nice and most speak very good English. So, there shouldn’t be any issues in the immediate area.
Plaza in front of church – Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary
Typical dining street – Budapest, Hungary
Not far from our hotel is Liberty Square; this is where the American Embassy is located. Here you will find monuments, statues and buildings of interest.
American Embassy – Budapest, Hungary
Exchange Palace – Budapest, Hungary
Adria Palace – Budapest, Hungary
Looking toward parliament – Budapest, Hungary
Liberty Square – Budapest, Hungary
Liberty Square – Budapest, Hungary
Wing of Exchange Palace – Budapest, Hungary
Historical Facade – Budapest, Hungary
At the entrance of this square is also an eternal flame memorial.
Lajos Batthyányi Eternal Flame – Liberty Square – Budapest, Hungary
Saint Stephen’s Basilica
Not far from our hotel is the Basilica of Saint Stephen. Though we did not enter it, if only from church exhaustion, the outside is rather impressive and very nice to see, especially in the evening.
Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary
Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary
At night – Saint Stephens Basilica – Budapest, Hungary
Hotels
There are many hotels to choose from in Budapest. We chose one that would be close to things, but not to far out from the center that you could not get to it by a tram or metro, as well as reasonably priced parking. The Mystery Hotel fits that bill nicely and is decently priced such that it should not break your bank.
Mystery Hotel
For people interested in driving or taking the train, the Mystery Hotel offers a great five star option close to the main railroad station with valet parking. It is also a few blocks away from the oldest Metro line in the city, the M1.
Lobby – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Lobby – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Breakfast room – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Since the hotel occupies an old renovated building not initially intended for occupation, the rooms are interestingly configured inside. Some even have lofts, so stay flexible, since they are well maintained and well appointed.
Our room – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Our room – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Bathroom – Mystery Hotel – Budapest, Hungary
Restaurants
As the capitol of Hungary and at a very busy intersection of Europe, Budapest has a huge selection of all kinds of different cuisines, especially Hungarian.
Retek Bisztro
Rather pricey and on the high-end of restaurants is the Retek Bisztro. It is located not far from the basilica and in downtown Budapest. It is a very busy place, so make reservations before you leave on your trip, since it fills up fast.
Exterior – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Front Room and bar – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
The restaurants offers most authentic Hungarian cuisine, from Hungarian Goulash to Hungarian meatballs. You will notice that most of my photographs came out a bit orange, since there was a red lamp very near our table.
Patti and Ericka – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
hors d’oeuvres – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Hungarian Goulash soup – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Duck leg with noodle and sauerkraut – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Salmon – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Hungarian deep fried meatballs with mashed potatoes – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Poppy-seed cake – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Sunday – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Along with a bottle of wine, the entire bill for four people and drinks came to 220€.
Fekete Cabernet – Retek Bisztro – Budapest, Hungary
Our trip from Bad Gastein to Linz took us through the Berchtesgaden Alps of Salzburg. As the train starts to navigate through the narrow pass of Salzachtal, the mountains rear up quickly to the point where you aren’t even able to take a photograph of them anymore from the train window.
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Linz The City
Linz is a typical Austrian city and the capital of Upper Austria or OberÖsterreich. It is for the most part clean and has the typical European city layout, with an old medieval part surrounded by a newer main street and some other ancillary shopping avenues in a more planned pattern.
Overlook of Linz – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Linz has somewhat of a checkered past and has had a difficult time getting out from under that reputation; there are reminders in the city everywhere, with it’s Hitlerbauten. Aside from that, the places of interest are all in an area comparable to places like Munich or even Copenhagen. So, you should be able to reach everything within a good twenty to thirty minute walk.
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Danube river – Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
One comes away with the immediate impression that few, if any of the structures are original. This is probably partially due to the war and the Linzers going contemporary, when they can. The bridges that jump the Danube are for the most part modern, as is much of the architecture in the city. At times you could mistake the city for a similar place in the United States, since many of the shops use English and have cosmopolitan origins.
The Innenstadt
Most restaurants, cafes and shops seem to be along the Hauptstraße in the Innenstadt. Here is where you will find the main tram line, which goes the entire length of this street all the way across the bridge to Urfahr on the other side.
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Neptune’s Fountain – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Churches
There are several churches worth visiting while in Linz, with special attention to Ursuline and Marien Dom if you are pressed for time. The following two were photographed, but not open at the time. Ignatius Church is also known as the Alter Dom and was the primary church prior to the Linzer Dom being built.
Priester Seminary and church – Linz, Austria
Ignatius Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Ursuline Church
The Ursuline Church is on Landstraße and is somewhat difficult to photograph from the street.
Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
However, it has a magnificent inside which many will find interesting.
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Side altar – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church
In true protestant style, both the outside and inside of the church are rather basic. But from a historical perspective, still interesting to visit.
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Marien Dom
This is Linz’s Cathedral and the largest church in Linz and in Austria. The Marien-Dom is also known as Mariä-Empfängnis-Dom, the New Cathedral or the Linzer Dom. It borders the Altstadt and can be found along the Herrenstraße and Baumbachstraße
Front – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Spire – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
It is a true cathedral and adheres true to the dimensions of the cross in its architecture (seen from the air).
High altar wth crown – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
High altar – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Organ – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Nave – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Inside – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
The Altstadt
The old part of the city is rather small and unremarkable. It is near the Castle and park and runs up to the Upper Austrian government buildings. A short walk down the Hofgasse will bring you to the Schloßberg where the old castle and its grounds are maintained.
Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Former Kremsmünster Abbey. – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Government building and tower – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Mozart Forum house – Linz, Austria
The Old Town Hall – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Schloßberg Castle
The Schloßberg Castle is not open on Mondays, so before going there you may want to check the entries times and dates. The other direction you can take to reach the castle is via Tiefergraben and walking through the back part of the park first. Walking this way first you will come across Martins Church and a statue of Kepler.
Old buildings – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Castle city gate – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Martins church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martins church – Linz, Austria
Martins Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Kepler’s Monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Castle Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
The castle is another example of the Linzers throwing old and new architecture together. We are not at all to happy with this trend (including the Louvre in Paris), however, we do not live in the city either and its people obviously feel a need to move forward and live in a more contemporary setting.
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The grounds have a small park which has a few monuments in it and a very good overlook of the Danube river and Pöstlingberg.
Observation point – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingbergbahn And Pöstlingberg
A good half day trip is taking the tram up to Pöstlingberg using the Pöstlingbergbahn or tram. It starts in the Hauptplatz and stops several times along the way to service local residents and students, since there are a few university stops along the way.
Tickets For Two – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Entrance Pöstlingbergbahn Museum – Linz, Austria
Tram stop Landgutstraße – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingberg stop – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Castle park entrance – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
The view of Linz once you reach the top is truly worth the time and effort.
Overlook – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Wallfahrts Basilica
On the top of Pöstlingberg sits the Wallfahrts Basilica of the Sieben Schmerzen Mariae, or the Seven Pains of Mary. It has a commanding view of Linz and the surrounding areas.
Outside view – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Towers – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
The basilica inside is quite impressive and is also known as the Pöstlingberg Pilgrimage Church.
Inside – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
It also has a very nice park adjacent to it where you can leisurely stroll while the cool air up there offers a breeze on warm days.
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Grottenbahn
There is also the Grottenbahn for those that have children or are young at heart. Apparently, it is a miniature railway inside that takes young people fantasy ride where there are gnomes and other fairytale characters, most likely with an emphasis on European tales.
Grottenbahn or train – Linz, Austria
Grottenbahn entrance – Linz, Austria
Though we did not take the adventure, we found the cost for one adult to be around 6€/person.
Restaurants
Since we were both feeling a bit under the weather, due to an unusual virus we had both caught; we decided to eat in at the hotel most evenings. Below are the exceptions to that rule and are special places to eat while in Linz.
Jindrak Konditorei
Located throughout Linz are copies of this original konditorei located on Herrenstraße in the altstadt. They are known for the amazing Linzer Torte and other baked delicacies. For any serious dessert lover and a must Kaffee und Kucken stop in mid afternoon when in Linz.
Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Linzer Tort – Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Early in the morning from our balcony the weather looked most promising, regardless of what our weather forecasting tools were trying to tell us. It appeared we had finally came into some good weather on this trip after all. When we started it, it didn’t look as promising…
A clear, fresh morning from our hotel – Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein
Flanking Bad Gastein on either side are some fairly tall mountains, which may be ascended using a gondola ski lift. During the summer months, weekend trekkers from all over come for a breath of healthy air and what appears to be a heightened exercise regime.
Tickets For Two – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Overview of cable car – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The cost for a day trip is 33€/person at the window, though I do believe you can save a few Euros, if you purchase your tickets online.
Stubnerkogel
The cable car ride is straightforward, as any skier will tell you. Fortunately, during this time of year it is not very busy, so you will usually get a car all by yourself.
The ascent is rather quick, considering the distance up the mountain. The first part is rather steep and there is a midway station, so stay on, if you want to go directly to the top.
Ascending – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Cows in their alpine meadows – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Long stretches of green meadows – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The mountain station at 2251 meters – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Stubnerkogel is part of the Goldberg Group or mountain range and sits on one side of the Gastein Valley, while the Ankogel Group sits on the other side.
The Summit
On the summit the views are spectacular. The air is bracing and it is typically a bit windy up there, so bring something extra to wear. Even with the sun, we were taking things off and putting them back on, depending on whether we were walking, sitting in the shade, or sunning ourselves on the restaurant veranda enjoying a drink.
Panoramic view of the Ankogel mountains – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
I won’t bore you too much with details, just watch the following slideshow to enjoy our experience. It was most walking around and just enjoying the fresh air and surrounding views.
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Conclusion
Though we enjoyed the area, we were frankly a bit disappointed with the lack of town amenities. There appears to be a lack of restaurants, and those that do exist, seem to offer the same fare at a similar price. So looking for something different to experience will be a bit of a culinary adventure.
I have already mentioned that the town’s central thermal spa has been closed, so that is itself a big negative. However, the trails and sights are great and there are plenty of places to visit and stay busy. I am not sure I would recommend deviating your plans to stop here, but if you are headed to or from Salzburg and through Villach, Austria on your train route, you may want to stop for a day or two. I would not commend more than four days, you will run out of food options by that time.
Salzburger Hof
For us, the Salzburger Hof hotel appeared to be a good choice, we had an excellent room and the service was first rate. Though they did miss our need for extra coffee dairy and other supplies, the room was kept extremely neat and we always had plenty of towels and other accessories.
Tomorrow it is off to Linz, Austria via Salzburg. There we will spend a few days and eventually meet up with our daughter and son-in-law, Ericka and Gabi. So the next week or so will be a busy travel week for us.
Bad Gastein on the way down – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Yesterday, since the weather was definitely improving, we decided to take a walk or hike to Böckstein, another town along the river that feeds the majestic Gasteiner Falls.
Looking back toward Bad Gastein – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
To get there you can hike the Kaiserin Elisabethe Promenade, which is for the most part paved and relatively flat. It is probably important to remember to bring water, since there is not much wind in the valley and the sun can make it quite hot without any shade or clouds to protect you.
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Böckstein
Located a bit more than three kilometers south of Bad Gastein is Böckstein, a small hamlet of houses at the nexus of the Pallner Bach and the Naßfelder Ache.
Signage for bikers and walkers – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Anlauftal – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
The town center has some historical buildings and items of interest, and of course a museum that was not open. Check the times, because like many other businesses in the area, they are probably only open from 15:00 – 18:00. However, if you do get to visit, definitely stop, I heard the museum is quite interesting and well presented.
Local Music Group – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Memorial, Montan museum – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ehemalige Goldschlämmanlage – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Apartment house for laborers – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Park and Fountain – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Jagdschlössl Czernin – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Böckstein – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Maria, Mutter vom Guten Rat – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Within the park there is an old mining train on display. The Elektrische Grubenlokomotive, or electric mining train, is part of the Montanmuseum of Böckstein and a very interesting find for train enthusiasts.
Electric Grubenzug for a Grubenbahn – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Mannschaftstransportwagen – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Grubenzug – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Grubenzug – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Restaurants
The unfortunate thing about Bad Gastein is the lack of restaurants. There are about a handful of them that are owned by the same entity that owns our hotel, therefore the menu in each becomes rather predictable. Our hotel does have the Ritz restaurant, however it only offers a five-course meal at a fix priced. Which is in and off itself okay, but the quantity of food sometimes is just too much.
Angelo Pizzeria
Located on Karl-Heinrich-Waggerl-Straße, Angelo Pizzeria is actually part of the group that owns the Salzburger Hof hotel. It is usually open from 15:00 to 20:00 and has fairly good pizza. The soup was actually quite good, I had their tomato soup with creme fraiche and it was very tasty.
Their mixed salad is a typical German gemischter Salat, where everything is actually not mixed, but placed next to each other. So all of the grated carrots, sliced cucumbers and tomatoes line the bowl. Moreover, on the bottom of your mixed greens, you will find a surprise of traditional coleslaw or chopped cabbage, beans, sliced beets and German potato salad styled potatoes.
Wirtshaus Jägerhäusl
This restaurant does not belong to the chain mentioned above and offers a happy alternative to the same menu. The decor is appealing and it is also in a quiet area, away from the Silver Bullet Bar that plays loud music.
Front – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Inside – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Here you can actually find a Minestrone soup and other dishes that are well prepared and taste great. We both ordered the soup, I ordered the chicken sandwich and Patti ordered the chicken schnitzel. With a bottle of water it all came to 57€, which we found reasonable for the area.
Minestrone soup – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Chicken Sandwich with fries – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Today it’s off to the top of the Stubnerkogel and a day on the mountain.
We left Turin early in the morning on the 5:50AM train, in order to catch the FrecciaRossa from Turin to Milan. Of course, due to the early hour, we used the Wetaxi Application and ordered a taxi for 12€ to take us to Porta Nuovo, the main train station in this part of the city.
Torino Train Station – Turin, Italy
Torino Train Station – Turin, Italy
Patti on the Freccia Rossa between Turin and Milan – Turin, Italy
Freccia Rossa to Venezia – Milan, Italy
Our connecting FrecciaRossa, took us from Milan to Venice Maestre, where we picked up our Austrian ÖBB train to Villach, Austria. Luckily, all of our connections, and there were four, worked without issue.
Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
An hour train north of Villach, Austria you can find the small health spa town of Bad Gastein. Though a shadow of its former self, when dignitaries and other luminaries used to visit for its waters and mountain air, it is still worth a visit, if not only for the aforementioned reasons.
View from Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Quiet, spa zone – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein
The town runs at a slower pace than other mountains towns we have visited. Perhaps it is more difficult to capture tourist monies with a waterfall and health resort as the primary attractions, as opposed to say a very large mountain or a large ski resort complex.
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the town center – Bad Gastein, Austria
There are parts of the town center that appear to be in eternal repair. Though there is work going on here and there, it does not appear to have progressed much in the last few years. The thermal water fountain building and the old Kurhotel of Austria appear permanently closed. Unfortunately, there are no signs posted explaining the reason, so we were just left to ponder what might have happened.
Bismark House – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke – Bad Gastein, Austria
Franz Schubert denkmal – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lower waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotels
Hotel Salzburger Hof
We stayed at the Salzburger Hof, a very large hotel close to the train station with all the amenities. It appears to be one of the better kept establishments in Bad Gastein, with two pools, three restaurants and a health spa. Apparently host to Count von Bismark and other dignitaries, including many American personalities.
Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Flowers – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
The rooms are very spacious and well appointed. The hotel seems proud of its tradition of important guests, there are photographs of everyone who has visited hung throughout the hotel and in the rooms.
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Our room – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Our view – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Kaiser was here – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lobby – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lobby – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Gasteiner Falls
The main attraction in the center of town now are the falls. The great Gasteiner Waterfalls are indeed impressive, especially after the storm that has just passed through this region of Europe. Since a video is worth a thousand words, here are a few.
It is easy enough to get a glimpse of the waterfalls by walking the main road through town and stopping at the bridge.
Town Center – Bad Gastein, Austria
Memorial – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Garmskarkogel mountain and Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Downstream – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Downstream waterfall – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Waterfall way – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
After taking in their beauty from the bridge, there are also other vantage points from which the falls may be enjoyed. But, that requires a bit of climbing and some hiking, all of which can be done with modern sneakers, not equipment necessary.
Patti – Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Erick – Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
The history of Gasteine – Bad Gastein, Austria
The waterfall way – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking down from the bridge – Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
There is a section above the falls where they were purposely redirected some years ago by a dam that was built by a member of the clergy. This forces all the current water down a single corridor within the rocks.
Hiking Trails
There are numerous trails for walking, hiking and biking around town. For our first day our we chose the one that visited the Upper Gastein Falls and then descended towards lower Bad Gastein.
Looking toward the Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the town center – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the Mölltal valley – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke clock tower – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Reitlpromenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Restaurants
La Pizzeria Napoletana
A very small Italian pizzeria stuck in the back of a another building right next to the Gasteiner Falls is the La Pizzeria Napoletana.
La Pizzeria Napoletana – Bad Gastein, Austria
Their tomato and mozzarella pizza is thin and very tasty. This restaurant has a minimal menu of pizza, beer, soft drinks and some wine, there is little else to choose from if you are really hungry.
Pizza Tomato and Mozzerella – La Pizzeria Napoletana – Bad Gastein, Austria
The pizza is authentic, right down to its crust. The prices are very reasonable and emblematic of what you would expect in a small town or city in Italy.
Orania Stueberl Restaurant
A restaurant that is almost always open, it is a good go-to place when you have few if any options. The food is good, but rather predictable, but that could be said for the rest of the cuisine in this small town.
Entrance – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Murmeltier – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
A salad and Gulash with Knödeln – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ice cream with cream and chocolate sauce – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The interior is adorned with numerous sacrificial animals that were ostensibly killed locally and now inhabit this restaurant’s walls. I guess I never understood if this practice was supposed to be in honor of the animal that was killed, or in spite of it. In any case, it appears a bit overdone.
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Inside – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The bar – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Dead animals on walls – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
In keeping with our travel recommendation about train travel, as opposed to taking a plane, we took the ÖOB Railjet train from Vienna in Austria to Prague in the Czech Republic. We just feel it is a quicker solution for short to medium destinations, when you take into account all the nonsense and preparation you must do to travel by air, which usually takes anywhere from two hours on each end. It just isn’t worth the effort to us for a one hour flight, when if you could use the time to enjoy the countryside or read a good book.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
On To Prague
Our next destination was Prague, where we are to meet my daughter and son-in-law. We left our hotel and using a taxi reached the main station in Vienna in about fifteen minutes. The main train station in Vienna is a very modern facility and connected to the U1 metro and the D Line of the Tram network, so there are multiple ways to reach it.
The Bucolic Czech Countryside
Of course, the Austrian and Czech Republic countrysides in this area of Europe are very similar, being mostly agricultural, with some natural reserved areas and wooded areas.
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Here are also a few videos I shot while enjoying the ride.
Some Recommendations
Upon reaching Prague, we decided to walk with our luggage to the Imperial Hotel, which is about fifteen minutes from the station. Though it can be done, and we actually did it, I cannot say I advise doing it. The Czech streets, in this area and most walkways in the older part of the city, are paved using a special highly contoured version of Sanpietrini, which is actually very difficult to pull your luggage on. It probably also raises hell with wheels on your luggage. So, a word of caution, what you see on the walkway immediately leaving the train station will last until you reach your hotel. That would be the time to seriously contemplate going back and getting into a taxi. Happy travels!
Below the cacophony of Vienna’s innere Stadt, the Resselpark, Karlskirche and the Kärtner Ring is a rather large conglomeration of museums, gardens and fountains is the Belvedere Palace.
Belvedere Palace and Gardens
Belvedere
The palace and its gardens are divided in two, known as the Oberen (Upper) and Unteren (Lower) Belvedere. Between them one can find the exceptional gardens of the palace called the Belvedere Gardens. To the right of this are also the Botanical Gardens, which we did not have time to visit.
Belvedere Gate Entrance
Belvedere Gardens – Upper and Lower Belvedere Museums – Tickets For Two
Upper Belvedere
This museum holds the primary collection of the Belvedere, including many famous artists, Austria’s own Klimt and others like Monet, Rodin and Schiele. Words cannot describe what a slow walk and intense focus on these works feels like unless you visit these works in person. Second best is a slide show on those pieces that I found the most moving and interesting of the collection, enjoy.
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Belvedere Gardens
A marvelous September day, a breeze with some chill and a beautiful garden go hand in hand, especially when you can share it with someone; in this case, my wife.
Belvedere Gardens
Belvedere Gardens – View of Lower Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens – Upper Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens and Reflecting Pond
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Step Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Belvedere Gardens – View of Vienna
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Patti in the Gardens
We had a great time just slowly walking through the gardens and listening to the fountains, enjoying the landscape[1]Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023. and the stillness that you do not get in other parts of this very busy city.
Lower Belvedere
This part of the museum contains more off-beat art works. Mostly contemporary artists and works, the Joseph Rebell collection, which goes back to the early 1800s, is extremely good and important. His landscapes of Naples, Vesuvius and other parts of the Mediterranean. Again, it is best to view these works in the context of a slide show.
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That concludes our visit to Vienna. We found it a fast paced interesting place to visit that eagerly welcomes tourists. Extremely cosmopolitan where it is easier to find an Italian restaurant than a traditional Viennese one, but such is the price of progress and tourism. For that, one might have to venture further, perhaps to Graz, or even Güssing in Burgenland.
In Vienna, as with many older cities in Europe, there are interesting things to see not only above ground, but below as well. Today was a rainy day and we had to deal with as best we could, that could have meant museums, but everyone else had that idea. In attempt to continue to avoid crowded place, whenever possible, we decided on the offbeat.
Vienna – Vermählungsbrunnen
Schweizertor – The Swiss Gate
The swiss gate is the oldest gate or door and part of the Hofburg, dating back to the 1300s. It is part of the original square castle that included four turrets on each corner. It’s not much to see, but is a remarkable color red.
Vienna – Schweizertur – Swiss Gate
Die Ankeruhr
The Anker Clock is located on Hoher Markt, next to the Judengasse.
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr – Legend
It chimes and performs a small show every noon time, otherwise all you will witness is an hourly chime, as follows.
Kapuzinergruft – Kaisergruft – Habsburg Tomb
If you are at all interested in the Habsburgs, and perhaps where they might be buried, look no further than the Kapuzinergruft. Also called the Kaisergruft or Habsburg Tomb, it is located on Neuer Markt and next to the Kapuziner Kloster.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Kaiser Gruft or Crypt – Tickets For Two
The gruft contains many of the families of the Habsburgs and Habsburg-Lothringen and includes a genealogy of the members who rest in this place. Some of the coffins also have amazing details, most of which have to do with wars[1]I sometime wonder when we are going to get over or need for that exercise in futility.
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Restaurants
Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Lounge
If you stay at the Grand Hotel Wien, you should look into any combination package that offers breakfast. Unless you are an extremely light eater in the morning, you will not do much better outside. They have a hot and cold menu (buffet), and the portion size is well managed, so you won’t have to worry about walking around with a lot of extra weight.
Vienna – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast
Café Central
One of the oldest cafes in Vienna, the Café Central is located in the old Palais Ferstel building on the corner of Herren- and Strauchgasse. Famous personages like Freud and Trotsky have visited this establishment, though today the conversations today, one could say, are less political or analytical.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Building and entrance
We made reservations for lunch and commend anyone do that same. The line waiting to get in can be long and when it rains out, as it did today, you do not want to find yourself getting wet before sitting down after a twenty or so minute wait.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Show case at entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Looking toward entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Patti enjoying lunch
Vienna – Cafe Central – Main Room
The food is good and traditional. I can commend a good red wine from Burgenland called Blaufränkish, which is served by the glass for around 5.50€. It is an excellent accompaniment for Wüstchens and Gulash soup. It is very busy, so service can be intermittent at times, so be patient.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Würstchen platter and Maygar Gulash
Vienna – Cafe Central – Apfelstrüdel – a local and personal favorite
Anyone visiting Vienna has to have museums on the top of their list of things-to-do. This city is home to many extraordinary examples of very good museums, some even housed in former palaces. The Albertina is just such an example and a must see when visiting Vienna, their collection of fine art is, shall we say, first rate.
Vienna – The Natural History Museum – Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
Some Museums of Vienna
In fact, there are so many museums in Vienna, it is perhaps difficult to list them all. Below are a few that we visited and thoroughly enjoyed, along with a few photographs, just to remember the important works of art that are there.
The Hofburg
A complex of museums and a library, which we found out only allows users who are doing research or have special permission. Though we did not see any museums here, it does include a World Museum and a Papyrus Museum.
Vienna – The Hofburg Gate
Vienna – The Hofburg – 1821 built in memory of the Battle of Leipzig
Vienna – The Hofburg
Vienna – The Hofburg
Vienna – The Hofburg – Prince Eugene Statue
Vienna – The Hofburg – Erzherzog Karl – Equestrian Statue
Maria-Theresien-Platz
Sitting across from one another, on the Maria-Theresien Platz, are the Art History and Natural History museums. This impressive public square was built with the public in mind, where they could come and enjoy the museums and stroll the grounds afterwards. The square is joined on the one end by the Museumquartier and on the other by the Burgring (Ringstraße), across which lies the Hofburg.
Vienna – The Natural History Museum
Vienna – The Art History Museum
Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Tickets for Two
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Main Stairway – Works by Klimt and others
Across the Burgring from the Hofburg is the Art History Museum of Vienna, or the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien. It houses unique art pieces collected by the Habsburgs during their reign.
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ceiling
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Jewelry Collection
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – A Griffin
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Roman and Greek bronzes and vases
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Bust
The Albertina
Formerly a palace, the Albertina was rebuilt after the Second World War and refurbished at the turn of the millennium. It contains collections of works by Monet, Picasso, Dürer and Da Vinci to name a few, my favorites are the works by Klee and Chagall. Here is a slideshow of some of those works.
Batliner Collection
A famous collection of paintings featuring Monet and Picasso, the Batliner Collection was endowed to the Albertina by Herbert Batliner’s estate. It contains many important collections by modernist artists, including Chagall, Ernst and Klee. Here is a slideshow of what this collection has to offer.
The building also has a collection of state rooms that were used by the archdukes and archduchesses of the Habsburgs. It consists of about twenty rooms of varying styles and designs.
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Restaurants
La Scala Trattoria
Yes we know, Italian food in Austria? Yes and yes! It is amazing how many Italian restaurants and trattoria there are here, including chains like Vapiano’s, if you need a quick bite for lunch.
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
This was a great pick for lunch, the hosts are very attentive and the food is speedily and well prepared. Though I would say that cuisine that is offered has an almost Rome feel to it, either due to the owners origin or as a response to tourist’s expectations. All in all, you couldn’t any better in Vienna than selecting this place to eat Italian food.
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala – Spaghetti al Pomodoro e Basilico
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala – Spaghette Aglio Olio
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer
This is an old Viennese restaurant, formerly owned by Sacher[1]The same person one who made the Sacher Torte famous, which was named after the exploits of a chimney sweep who had a torrid love affair with a young woman baker who used to work in the building. After some time of coming out each morning covered in baking flour the locals would jokingly call the place of the White Chimney Sweep.
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
The food is traditional for this area and very well prepared, the pea soup was marvelous. The Wiener Schnitzel was above average with the breading being very tasty, crusty and separated from the veal, making for a delicious entree. As such, expect to pay above average prices.
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer – Pea Soup
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer – Wiener Schnitzel
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
Be aware, though we were seated immediately at fifteen after six in the evening, management of getting a table appeared a bit capricious to us. They seem to turn some parties away while accepting others of the same size without reservations. My wife and I were puzzled, so reservations are easy enough to make and probably a good idea.
Anyone visiting Vienna has to see the Danube, not just the minor lower canal portion of it that is pretty close to the Altstadt, but the real deal.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Minor Part of Danube
Walking Vienna
Our primary objective on Sunday was to walk a good portion of the city and while we were doing that visit the Danube.
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Stubentor And City Wall
Along our walk we happened upon a monument for the old city wall and the Stuben Tower, which was part of it at one time.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
The Danube
After a considerable two to three mile walk, and a cafe stop for coffee, we enjoyed a walk to this famous river, as well as a short walk along its banks.
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance – River Cruises
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – More brown than blue
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – More brown than blue
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Reichesbrücke
The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Not far from the Danube and in the Stuwerviertal, close to Mexicoplatz is the church of Saint Francis of Assisi.
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Almost directly in the center of the old city is Saint Stephan’s Cathedral. We were fortunate enough to be at the cathedral on a Sunday to hear them play the marvelous bells.
The cathedral is impressive, both inside and out, almost reminiscent of the Kolner Dom.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Entrance
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Roof
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Inside
