Luino, Italy – Lacking Service

A popular tourist destination for the Swiss, Germans and Netherlanders is the small town of Luino on the northeast end of Lake Maggiore. The boat services on the lake are divided here for destinations north of it and south of it. From the south, especially from Stresa, it is difficult, if not impossible, to arrange a roundtrip to this town except on wednesdays. Even to get here by train is a three to five hour ordeal and roundtrips by rail or bus are all but out of the question. The town is truely lacking service from the southern end of the lake.

Luino

It seems a popular destination for people from the north, who are either staying in Switzerland or the nearby town of Cannobio. It is especially busy on Wednesdays, this is when the town holds its weekly market. [1]Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.

At one time the town was heavily industrialized and there were many textile factories here, which accounted for the terrible pollution the lake had to endure for years after its demise. Luckily today, the lake has considerably cleaner water that in the previous century.

Getting There

From the north, the map shows all traffic by boat going through Cannobio. From the south, we took the boat from Stresa. From there we stopped a half dozen times before reaching our destination.

It should be noted, if you are traveling from the south and want to go further than Luino, you can, you just may have to change boats in Luino.

From Stresa the trip is not inexpensive to Luino. For roundtrip tickets it cost us €15.20 per person[2]or about $18 per person.

Church of Saints Peter and Paul

A walk through the town and above most if, you will find the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. An unusual church which looks more like an administrative building than a church.

The inside does have some marble, but the rest of the nave and ceiling are painted in the style trompe-l’œil, giving the impression of relief where none really exists.

Restaurants

When we arrived in Luino, we only had three hours before our boat trip back, so we had to make good use of our time. Subsequently, we looked for a place to eat first and chose the Trattoria da Elia e Ugo.

Trattoria da Elia e Ugo

A small restaurant that caters to locals and tourists alike. They speak very good english, so there should be no problem with the language; they are even willing to look words up in order to make sure they have the correct word.

The food is very good and well portioned. The caprese is rather large and good enough for two. The pasta dishes are also fairly large and well seasoned.

Aside from the popular marketplace on wednesdays and the odd historical monument, there really is not much to see in Lunio. Coming from the south, it can only be commended for the odd day trip with lunch as the primary reason for the expedition, since it is rather far away and the boat service only runs roundtrip on wednesday, so plan accordingly.

References

References
1 Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
2 or about $18 per person

Copenhagen, Denmark – The City and More

Below are some final meanderings about the city, several other places that we ate and a few places that we saw, that just didn’t fit in any of the former entries.

Copenhagen

Some final thoughts on the city and its location. The weather when we were here was borderline terrible. So if you plan on visiting, you should check the extended forecast prior to packing. It was August and we dealt with temperatures in the 50-60°F range with rain. After the first few days, we just had to ask someone if this what the weather is always like. We were told that the weather is extremely variable and they have even seen snow in the middle of summer! Again, be prepared. We packed both long and short pants and shirts, along with raincoats and glad we did; but only because we knew the forecast had low temperatures and rain.

Our Canal Tour

Touring a city such as Copenhagen, which has plenty of canals and waterways, would not be complete without a canal or boat tour. There are plenty to choose from and you can visit the Information Center to find our more or the city’s website. Make sure you prepare properly for the weather, few boats on the canal tours are covered and those only leave at certain times of the day, so plan accordingly, they do go in the rain.

They also go in extraordinary high tides as well. Our tour was modified because the tides had come in extra high, leaving little space under the bridges. Therefore, we could not go down some canals and I think our tour ended up a bit longer that it probably should have been.

Trinitatis Kirke

Trinitatis Kirke, or Trinitatis church, is a church built in the seventeenth century that is connected to The Round Tower. It was initially built to support the university, since it was part of the overall Trinitatis Complex. The Library Hall, which is built over one of the church’s naves dictated the size of the church when it was originally constructed. In any event, the church has a baroque look and feel to it which may be of interest to some and the organ is certainly something you should see.

The Round Tower

The Round Tower is actually an odd building for several reasons. At first I thought it was a shot tower, where they used to make gunshot or ball bearings. It just did not make any sense to me to build such a structure with a central column and a ramp for horses, unless it had some manufacturing purpose. Moreover, the rebus on the building has been loosely interpreted as Lead, God and The Correct Teaching; which also initially reinforced my belief that it had some military purpose; the telescope and Library Hall being repurposed after other ways to make ammunition came into vogue.

I surprised to find the edifice was built with a ramp inside so that the horses where able to bring the heavy equipment up the tower for the telescope installation. The central column was later intentionally used as a toilet by the staff who found it arduous to walk down the ramp to go to the bathroom.

The telescope installation was built on top of the tower some time after that was completed. The Library Hall was initially used as a library and has now been repurposed as an Art Exhibition hall.

There are also a few astronomical oddities to see, if you look up while you are waiting for the light to change to ascend to the observation lookout. They are a map of the solar system and a zodiac timepiece.

Restaurants

Some last insights into food and some places to go or avoid.

Nebbiolo

Essentially a wine bar serving Aperitivo, or charcuterie and other small items to eat while you enjoy their wine. Since we were not particularly hungry one evening, we tried this place which happened to be right next door to the Chinese restaurant we visited.

Dong Yuan

A very good Chinese restaurant right around the corner from our hotel. The place is always busy, but it does take reservations. The prices are reasonable, considering the prices in the rest of Copenhagen. They also have half-bottles of wine at a very good price, I would commend a Bordeaux.

Taste

A lunch establishment with very limited seating, so show up early if you want one. We sat inside, since the weather was intolerable and the outside seating had little, if any cover. The food is good, but a bit oily. The grilled sandwich I ordered could not be picked up, so I had to cut it into pieces using a knife and fork.

Bistro Verde

This was a quick find before we left Copenhagen for Turin. This restaurant offers a Sunday Brunch at a decent price, the only problem was, it was a vegan dish. So we just ordered a pair of normal cappuccinos and croissants and enjoyed the beautiful Sunday morning before leaving.

Klagenfurt – Wörthersee

There is no trip to Klagenfurt am Wörthersee worth its while, without visiting its namesake, the Wörthersee. A short twelve minute ride on the S1 train to Pörtschach am Wörthersee, will put you directly in the middle of the lake. We thought it a great place to take a day trip.

Our plan was to take the train from Klagenfurt Hbf, see the town, walk around the lake a bit, enjoy a nice lunch and then take a boat ride back to Klagenfurt. The weather was beautiful and everything went according to plan. Well almost, we actually stretched it out a bit, since the weather was so nice.

Pörtschach am Wörthersee

This little town is perhaps the main spot along the entire lake. Though we did not go to Velden, it had the look and feel of a long established tourist town for local Austrians. This appears to be their place to come, relax, play, eat and generally have fun. Here is a quick slideshow of the views along the lake.

There is also a waterpark on the Spitz, that requires a fee to enter, but provides everything from sunbathing and waterslides into the lake, to picnicing for the day on the small island.

The town is some three hundred meters or so from the actual lake, but gives you the impression that it is a laid back tourist town. There are many amenities and stores for tourists to shop in, including bike rentals, hiking and trekking gear, etc.

The Lake Boat Ride

There is a boat, in fact I think there are several, the travels up and down the lake carrying passengers from one small town to the next. It runs every hour or so and takes over an hour to complete the full length of the lake itself. It is another nice way to take short trips all along the lake, or just a nice gentle boat ride to see the lake for itself.

Well that’s just about it for Pörtschach and the Wörthersee. We have a great day seeing it and enjoying a nice lunch along the water. The weather was just gorgeous. Here are a few video clips while we were on the boat.

On to other places of interest, next stop, Salzburg.