A popular tourist destination for the Swiss, Germans and Netherlanders is the small town of Luino on the northeast end of Lake Maggiore. The boat services on the lake are divided here for destinations north of it and south of it. From the south, especially from Stresa, it is difficult, if not impossible, to arrange a roundtrip to this town except on wednesdays. Even to get here by train is a three to five hour ordeal and roundtrips by rail or bus are all but out of the question. The town is truely lacking service from the southern end of the lake.
Other Boat Leaving – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Luino
It seems a popular destination for people from the north, who are either staying in Switzerland or the nearby town of Cannobio. It is especially busy on Wednesdays, this is when the town holds its weekly market. [1]Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
Wednesday Market Place – Luino, Italy
Hemlock Near Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Luino, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Luino, Italy
At one time the town was heavily industrialized and there were many textile factories here, which accounted for the terrible pollution the lake had to endure for years after its demise. Luckily today, the lake has considerably cleaner water that in the previous century.
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Getting There
From the north, the map shows all traffic by boat going through Cannobio. From the south, we took the boat from Stresa. From there we stopped a half dozen times before reaching our destination.
Navigation Map – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Stresa Boat Dock – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
It should be noted, if you are traveling from the south and want to go further than Luino, you can, you just may have to change boats in Luino.
Beautiful Day – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Coming Into Our First Stop – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Arriving In Luino – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Our Boat – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
From Stresa the trip is not inexpensive to Luino. For roundtrip tickets it cost us €15.20 per person[2]or about $18 per person.
Tickets For Two – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Church of Saints Peter and Paul
A walk through the town and above most if, you will find the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. An unusual church which looks more like an administrative building than a church.
Front And Entrance – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
The inside does have some marble, but the rest of the nave and ceiling are painted in the style trompe-l’œil, giving the impression of relief where none really exists.
Nave – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Altar – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Restaurants
When we arrived in Luino, we only had three hours before our boat trip back, so we had to make good use of our time. Subsequently, we looked for a place to eat first and chose the Trattoria da Elia e Ugo.
Front – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Trattoria da Elia e Ugo
A small restaurant that caters to locals and tourists alike. They speak very good english, so there should be no problem with the language; they are even willing to look words up in order to make sure they have the correct word.
Entrance – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Patti – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
The food is very good and well portioned. The caprese is rather large and good enough for two. The pasta dishes are also fairly large and well seasoned.
Caprese – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Pasta Special – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Aside from the popular marketplace on wednesdays and the odd historical monument, there really is not much to see in Lunio. Coming from the south, it can only be commended for the odd day trip with lunch as the primary reason for the expedition, since it is rather far away and the boat service only runs roundtrip on wednesday, so plan accordingly.
Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
Kind of by luck and definitely by accident, we made our own religious pilgrimage on Easter Sunday. Our pre-planned trip was always to visit Domodossola, but only included our walk up the Via Calvario as an aside, or suggestion, if we had time. It ended up being the perfect event on a near perfect day, at least with respect to the weather.
Domodossola
A large city at the top edge of Italy with Switzerland. It is the last stop on the train line from Italy into its neighboring country. It is an odd mix of new with some very old parts. The streets are very clean and well maintained. Some of the buildings date back to Columbus’ day and actually look it.
Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Entrance – Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso – Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Nave – Collegiata dei Santi Gervaso e Protaso – Via Giovanni Capis – Domodossola, Italy
Narrow Streets – Domodossola, Italy
The city has the usual fountains and piazzas. Since it was a holiday, all museums and other tourist related buildings and facilities were closed. However, we did find some shops and restaurants that would normally be closed on a Sunday, open.
Piazza Fountana – Domodossola, Italy
One Of The Main Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Buildings Of All Shapes And Sizes – Domodossola, Italy
Very Old Building – Domodossola, Italy
Beautifully Cobbled Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Pretty Architecture – Domodossola, Italy
Getting There
We took one of the Regional Express trains from Stresa and we were there within a half an hour. Unexpectedly, we were stopped by police inside the train station after we got off the train. I guess it was probably because there were no other IC or EC trains going into Switzerland, so they had nothing better to do. They asked me for my travel documents and luckily I had my new wallet sized US passport. They took a photograph of it, exclaimed that it was the first time they saw one and let me pass. My wife told them all she had was a driver’s license, but the quickly looked at her and said no problem, go through. Yeah, they don’t profile in Italy. So, if you are traveling close to the Swiss border in Italy, bring your passport and travel documents, you never know, you might be stopped!
On Our Way To Domodossola – Train Station – Stresa, Italy
Train Station – Domodossola, Italy
Train Station – Domodossola, Italy
Streets – Domodossola, Italy
Monte Calvario
To see the fifteen chapels and stations of the cross, you have to climb Monte Calvario. You arrive at the mount by the Via Calvario, a street which can be found off the Via Matterella.
Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The first thing you will see is a small church or chapel with a large sign explaining the origins, history and design of the entire idea.
Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Doors on the Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Doors on the Church – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
A bit further down this road will be the start of the Via Calvario. At first, the first four chapels come fast and furious.
Cherry Trees – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Crossing to Monte Calvario – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – First Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Second Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Second Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Third Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Third Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Once the road starts to incline, it might be better to walk on the flat pavement stones in the middle, or the outer edges if you have to, because after a short while the vertically set stones will take a toll on your feet.
The Long Way Up – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fourth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fourth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Then the incline increases and it takes a bit longer to get to the next four. But, our weather was extremely pleasant, sunny and in the middle sixty degrees Fahrenheit.
Chapel – Fifth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Sixth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fifth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Sixth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Climb To The Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Mountains In Early Spring – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Patti – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Seventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Final Stairs To The Top – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The Town With Mountains Behind – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Grounds On Top – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Once you have reached the eigth station, you are more on less on the top of the mount. Here you will find the remaining four, eight, nine, ten and eleven.
Chapel – Eigth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eigth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Ninth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Ninth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Tenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Tenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eleventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Eleventh Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The twelfth and thirteenth are actually in the Church of the Holy Crucifix. A beautiful little church and chapel with real candles that may be lit for prayers.
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Church Del SS Crocifisso – Twelfth And Thirteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
The remaining stations are outside again. We only managed to find the fifteenth station, since it is right next to an overview of the city. The other, was below by the cafe, which we had no interest at that point in visiting.
Chapel – Fifteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Chapel – Fifteenth Station – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
View Of Domodossola And Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Patti – Domodossola And Mountains – Via al Calvario – Domodossola, Italy
Restaurants
After walking the city for about an hour, we found a bistro for lunch. We only order salads and cannot say much about the quality of their steak, which seems to be their primary offering. However, had we known better, there was a quaint little Osteria not far from there that was actually serving an Easter dinner, with lamb and all usual italian side dishes. Oh well, our loss.
With this post we will note that we have seen a marked increase in restaurant prices. Not only for food, but drinks as well. Perhaps not exspensive as the States, but they are getting up there.
Restaurant Bistro Steak House
As a Insalata Greco goes, they were okay. About medium in size and they didn’t have a lot of Feta cheese on them, so the owner is a bit cheap. But the food was okay and not terribly expensive. I would say, if you have time, find somewhere else, but the food is fine otherwise, though you may find the service more than lacking, especially after you receive your food.
Entrance – Bisto Steak House – Domodossola, Italy
Insalata Mista – Bisto Steak House – Domodossola, Italy
Another good tip, at least for here, but we have seen it elsewhere too. If you are done and have already told them so, get up and go to the bar (Cassa) and pay, don’t wait for them to come back. You may sprout some new grey hairs if you do.
A former eminent place where most woolen products came from in Italy is the city of Biella. As far back as the thirteenth century, the city has been known for its fine wool fabrics and products. However, with the recent globalization of products and competition of the early twenty-first century, many of the factories and businesses associated with that industry have gone away, creating what some might term – the woolen woes.
Waiting for Tram 13 – Vittoria Veneto Piazza – Turin, Italy
Torino Porta Susa Train Station – Turin, Italy
Torino Porta Susa Train Station – Turin, Italy
The Alps From Our Train To Biella – Turin, Italy
The Alps From Our Train To Biella – Turin, Italy
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Biella
The city sits at the foot of the eponymous mountain range of the Biellese Alps. It has been so affected by the wool industry’s decline and other issues, that it is considering cutting back on some municipal services, including the possible cessation of the funicular, or the Funicolare del Piazzo, which was severely damaged by past weather events.
Outdoor Market – Biella, Italy
Getting There
We took the train from Turin’s Porta Susa to Biella. It is easy and very cost effective and only takes about an hour.
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Biella San Paolo Train Station – Biella, Italy
Though a very liveable city, it is fairly quiet, but we found lacking in some amenities. It is also not a very pretty city, it had many empty stores while we were here and many buildings appeared to have maintenance issues. However, if you did not stray far from the main street of Via Italia you wouldn’t notice.
Entering Town – Biella, Italy
Typical Fascist Period Building – Via Torino – Biella, Italy
San Paolo Church Tower – Via Torino – Biella, Italy
SP338 – Biella, Italy
Zumaglini Park – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Zumaglini Park – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Old Building – Via S. Filippo and Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Piazza Biella
On the west side of the city, on top of the hill, is the Piazza Biella. A fifteen to twenty minute walk up the Costa del Piazza will bring you to the upper part of town. The cobbled street is a bit treacherous, so take care, especially if the weather is bad, the stones are quite slippery, even when dry.
Via Cerino Zegna – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Patti – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Costa del Noci – Costa del Piazzo – Biella, Italy
Here you will find the Piazza Biella, which has a few cafes and bars to enjoy. Aside from that, it is very quiet.
Piazza Biella – Biella, Italy
Church of San Giacomo – Piazza Biella – Biella, Italy
Close by is the Piazza Mario Cucco, from where you will be able to get a fantastic view of the Biellese Alps.
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Patti With The Alps In Background – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Erick With The Alps In Background – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
Old Buildings – Piazza Mario Cucco – Biella, Italy
One the way down, we took the Costa San Sebastiano, which led us directly to the Basilica of San Sebastiano in Biella.
Patti – Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Costa San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Basilica Biella
The Basilica of San Sebastiano, together with the monastery of San Girolamo, stands as the pinnacle of the Biella Renaissance. Commissioned and funded by Sebastiano Ferrero, it featured artists from the Lombardy region for its masonry work. The church’s foundation stone was laid in 1500, and in honor of the patron, it was dedicated to San Sebastiano. The construction was overseen by Maestro Eusebio, who was present during the laying of the foundation stone. By 1504, the church’s walls were already finished, but it wasn’t consecrated until 1540 by Monsignor Guglielmo di Gattinara, the Bishop of Nicomedia.
Entrance – Basilica San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Interior – Basilica San Sebastiano – Biella, Italy
Cathedral of Biella
From the outside the Biella Cathedral, or Cathedral of Saint Stefano Protomartire, might almost remind one of a mosque, if it weren’t for the cross on the apex of the roof.
Entrance and Front – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
However, from the inside there is no mistaking it for anything other than a catholic cathedral. Interestingly, the interior contors of the colums and relief of the ceiling are all a visual illusion and one of the best examples of trompe-l’œil. This is where the intricate details are painted on the existing stone, plaster or masonry to mimick definition or relief, when in fact there is none.
Interior – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
Interior – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
If you look carefully you may find the original first foundation stone for the church, that is before it became of cathedral. It was set in the early fifteenth century and has been interpreted, first from the ancient latin, then into modern italian.
Foundation Stone – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
The english translation would say, “1402, today on the 20th of March, construction of this church was begun by master Giovanni Borri.”
Foundation Stone Interpretation – Cathedral of Saint Mary Assunta – Biella, Italy
Biella Baptistery
Extremely close by the cathedral is the Baptistery of John the Baptist. Unfortunately, no entry is allowed. But a quick look of the outside and it is clear that it is a fairly old building.
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Baptistry of John the Baptist – Via Battistero – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity
Directly off the Via Italia is the small church of Santissima Trinity. It has high vaulted ceilings with frescoes and a very ornate altar. Here again, the relief is mostly done using paint.
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Church of the Santissima Trinity – Via Italia – Biella, Italy
Restaurants
Since this was a day trip, we only had time to enjoy lunch. At first we had some difficulty and our first choice, the higly rated L’Arrugginita on the upper side of town, was completely booked. Then we mistakenly sat down in what we thought was a neapolitan pizzeria, which turned out to actually be a poke bowl bistro. Then finally we found Ristorante Il Salotto.
Ristorante Il Salotto
A very fine place for lunch, Il Salotto offers a tasty fixed priced menu at €17 for pasta (primi only), or €24 for the two course lunch (primi and secundi). For the extra seven euros a piece, we were able to order two primi pasta dishes and two secundi meat dishes, with bread, a glass of wine and water for total of €51.
Entrance – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Interior – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
The food was excellent, as was the service and decor. If you are ever in Biella, definitely one of the places to eat.
Ravioli with Cabbage and Meat – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Pork Tenderloin in sauce with pickled onions – Ristorante Il Salotto – Biella, Italy
Anyone walking through the idealic and picturesque city of Colmar, France will notice the abundance of timber and sandstone used in it’s buildings. From simple timber framed houses, to large churches built almost entirely of sandstone.
Colmar
The city of Colmar has benefited from both French and German influences, especially with it’s architecture. This is what makes it such an interesting place to visit. Not only have many of the structures survived the many wars between the two countries, the population has seemed to have taken care of them down through the centuries.
Getting There
From Frankfurt you can the A5, which I believe is only designated a 5 now. We took it and then cut over to France at Strasbourg and took the A35 down. If you take that route you get to enjoy the Statue of Liberty.
Statue of Liberty – 33 Route de Strasbourg – Colmar, France
Statue of Liberty – 33 Route de Strasbourg – Colmar, France
Timber Houses
The city is repleat with Fachwerkhäuser, or timber houses. Many dating back many centuries and showing their age.
Timber House – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
Timber Houses – Colmar, France
Timber Houses – Colmar, France
Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Croisement Rue des Marchands, Grand Rue – Colmar, France
It is essential to visit the Grand Rue, which is the main shopping street of the city. Here you can shop and dine and explore the many facets of Colmar.
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Grand Rue – Colmar, France
The Rue Vauban is also an important thoroughfare to visit and is itself decorated with many of the timber houses that adorn other parts of the city.
Old Timber House 1562 – Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
21 Rue Vauban – Colmar, France
Another must-see street is the Rue de Tetes. Here you can find the Maison des Tetes which was built in 1609 by Anton Burger, who later became the mayor of the city. The building owes its name to the many masks and grimacing faces that adorn its exterior. The figure on the top of the three-story oriel is of the twentieth century barrel-maker Auguste Bartholdi, at which time the building was used as a wine exchange.
Maison des Tetes – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Maison des Tetes – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Timber Houses – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Place Martyrs de la Resistance – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Place Martyrs de la Resistance – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
Place Martyrs de la Resistance – Rue des Tetes – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise
They call it the small Venice, but not really, it’s just one canal and it only goes about one block. It is a very pretty area and is worth a stop if you are in the area.
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
Gabi and Ericka – La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
There is a gondala ride you can take, if you cannot enjoy the real thing.
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
La Petite Venise – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin
The Collégiale Saint-Martin is a church that is run by a secular group of clergy, that are responsible for the church’s administration as well as several aspects of the attached college. There were at least two churches on the same site, dating back to the eleventh century. The current church grew out of a set of buildings that started the early thirteenth century.
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Main Entrance – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Clock – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Season Calendar – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Tympanum and Tower – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Tympanum – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Southern Face – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – At Night – Colmar, France
The interior is spacious and maintains a typical cathedral design, with an apse, altar and transept. Over the entrance is located a very large organ, which is accessed by a spiral staircase located in one of the corners.
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Nave – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Nave – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Nave – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Crossing and Transept – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Nave and Organ – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Crossing and Transept – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Chapel – Colmar, France
Collégiale Saint-Martin – Chapel – Colmar, France
Restaurants
Colmar has numerous restaurants and cafes catering to most tastes. However, we would recommend trying the alsatian food, an interesting mixture of french and german cuisine.
Le Fer Rouge
Le Fer Rouge is a true alsatian restaurant and serves good food. This was our first food stop in Colmar and we thoroughly enjoyed it.
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Entrance – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
I ordered the Schweinhaxen, or roasted pig shank, and it was delicious. It was marinated in a semi-sweet french sauce that was just outstanding. The Schwarzwälderkirchetorte, or Black Forest Cake, however was not that good. The creme was a bit stiff and the cherries lacked a rich taste, one expects from this dessert; a true dissappointment.
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Menu – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Patti, Ericka and Vlad – Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Schweinshaxe with Honey, Thyme and Potatoes, Bread – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Stuffed Meat Beef with Mixed Greens – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Le Fer Rouge Restaurant – Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, Black Forest Cake – Rue des Marchands – Colmar, France
Brasserie Chez Hansi
The Brasserie Chez Hansi is another alsatian restaurant with a simple atmosphere.
Chez Hansi – Menu – Colmar, France
Chez Hansi – Inside – Colmar, France
The menu is easy to intepret and there appears to be something for everyone’s taste. I would commend however the Sauerkraut and Würste platter, it was excellent.
Chez Hansi – Flammkuchen (Pizza?) – Colmar, France
Chez Hansi – Chicken and Spätzle – Colmar, France
Chez Hansi – Sauerkraut Platter with Würst and Potatoes – Colmar, France
Le Bistrot des Copains
Last, and definitely least, is the Le Bistrot des Copains. It has a very average rating and you will find it is well deserved. The food is okay, nothing to write home about for sure. The service is adequate and they do try to help you with any requests. This restaurant would fall into the tourist trap category, if such a thing exists. It is well attended, but it perplexes me why.
Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
Bern was originally settled by Swabians[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Käfigturm – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland
Getting There
Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.
Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland
The City
The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.
Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland
Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bundeshaus – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland
Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland
Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland
Old house – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland
Brunnen Or Fountains
The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.
There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.
Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Hotel Savoy
A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.
Hotel Savoy – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedrals And Churches
A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.
Cathedral Of Bern
Cathedral of Bern – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Nave and Alter – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland
Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Church Of Saint Peter And Paul
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Entrance, Rathausgasse – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Rose Window – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland
Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland
Bridges And The Aare River
There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.
Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland
Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Bären Park
On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Nydeggbrücke – Bärenpark – Bern, Switzerland
Einsteinhaus
On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland
The Rosengarden Bern
One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.
Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland
It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.
Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.
Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland
Restaurants
The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.
Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland
Santa Lucia Ristorante
Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Minestrone Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland
Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland
The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.
Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce
On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.
Ristorante Luce – Entrance – Bern, Switzerland
Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland
Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.
Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland
I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.
Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland
If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
Wanting to visit Porto, after hearing such good things about the city from family and friends, we decided to book a trip during the off season, March in fact. Our Tickets For Two were of course electronic, so no photographs of them, sorry.
Getting There
From Turin there are two direct flights twice weekly to Porto, Portugal with RyanAir, which is also a designated hub of this carrier. Two weeks ago we booked our stays and flights, well knowing the weather during this time of year is very undependable, it did not disappoint.
Turin Airport – Gate 20, Bound for Porto – Porto, Portugal
Turin Airport – The Nose Of Our Plane – Porto, Portugal
The flight was a little over two hours and left in the evening, in fact all the flights on Mondays and Fridays between these two cities are evening flights. We left around 6:30PM and arrived a little after 9:00PM, but it is actually 8:00PM local time, since you gain an hour.
RyanAir Flight – Coming Into The City – Porto, Portugal
Our arrival was bumpy and wet, so after we arrived, Patti and I decided to take a taxi instead of the metro. It was a good decision, first it only cost us thirty Euros and second, it was pouring out; so getting door to door service was very helpful.
Carris Hotel Ribiera
The Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto is no doubt a collection of a few building that have been extensively renovated. It is close to the water and midway down the river embankment, so no matter which was you walk there will be a hill.
The accommodations are modern enough, though there are a few oddities and some unpleasant things, for one the bed in the room was very hard. Another unfortunate oversight, the safe provided in the room is not bolted to the wall or closet, so anyone can easily just pick it up with all of your possessions and leave the room; we therefore chose not to use it.
Porto – The City
The city of Porto, or Oporto, may pose difficulties for some. For one it essentially lays on the very steep banks of the River Douro, which has its source deep in central Spain, and therefore is very hilly.
The River Douro – Ribeira Square – Porto, Portugal
Street Car or Tram – Porto, Portugal
The Streets Under Rain – Porto, Portugal
The Streets Under Rain – Porto, Portugal
The city is known for its buildings having tiled facades, as well as many of its famous buildings, like the Sao Bento train station and its churches and cathedral.
Typical Street – Porto, Portugal
Churches and Cathedrals
There are many churches and cathedrals in the city, some are free to enter, others have been repurposed and charge a fee.
Parish Church of St. Nicholas
The Parish Church of Saint Nicholas was the first church we visited. We were stuck by its tiled exterior. The interior has an amazing golden altar with a painting of a scene after the crucifixion.
Parish Church of St. Nicholas – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Parish Church of St. Nicholas – Altar and Inside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Francis
The Church of Saint Francis is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful churches we have been lucky enough to visit. Almost the entire interior is decorated with carved wooden and gilded ornamentation depicting all different scenes from Catholicism.
Church Of Saint Francis – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – A Gilded Wooden Tree With Figures – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
The Church Museum
The museum houses an impressive collection of church artifacts and treasures, it is probably worth the reasonable cost of entry alone.
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room, Old 17th Century Wooden and Iron Strongbox – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Treasury Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Treasury Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Old Tapestry – Porto, Portugal
The Crypt
One of the more extensive crypts we have seen. It also has a peculiar floor that has removable panels, no doubt for easy access to the remains in place in each sarcophagus.
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt Bone House – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral
Ostensibly the Porto Cathedral is crowning jewel of the church in the city, however we did not find it as interesting as St. Francis. There are several self-guided tours to chose from, including the Bishop’s quarters which we decided against. However, the rest of the grounds are interesting, if only for the tile work, or Azulejo, for which the cathedral and most of the city is so keenly known.
Porto Cathedral – Statue of Vimara Peres – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Patti in front of the Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Courtyard – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Portico – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Courtyard – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Right Apse – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Rose Window – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Left Apse – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Left Apse, Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Bronze and Baptismal Font – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Bells – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Main Bell – Porto, Portugal
Clerigos Church
Though we did not go in, there is a fee to enter, we enjoyed the church from the street. It wasn’t really clear from our research that it was particularly known for anything, so we decided to skip this church.
Clerigos Church – Porto, Portugal
Torre Dos Clerigos
Likewise, the clock tower associated with it looks impressive from the street and probably has some interesting points inside, however, again we chose not to indulge on paying for entry, since we had no inclination for climbing the stairs to the top, we had already seen an overview of the city from other vantage points.
Clerigos Church Clock Tower – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
Most restaurants and cafes in Porto are small, actually very small, and you will be lucky to find a place to sit down if you are not lucky or willing to wait. For dinner it is always best to make a reservation, almost all restaurants take and honor them, though some may restrict the amount of time you may keep you table.
Forno Velho
This restaurant is part of the Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto and serves a limited, but very good selection of food from their menu. We ate here because it was late, around 9:30PM and raining outside. Though they do get a premium price for their entrees, the food was very good and well prepared, and we received a fifteen percent discount on our bill.
Hotel Carris Porto-Ribeira, Forno Velho Restaurant – Red Mushroom Rissotto – Porto, Portugal
Hotel Carris Porto-Ribeira, Forno Velho Restaurant – Veal Tataki with apple and peppercorns, potatoes with speck – Porto, Portugal
Rocinha Cafe
On our first morning in Porto we ate at the Rocinha Cafe, which lies around the corner on the same block as our hotel. It offered an English Breakfast for ten Euros each, and we were able to substitute our cappuccinos as our beverage of choice, so our total bill was twenty Euros.
Rocinha Cafe – English Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant
For lunch we ate at A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant. This establishment is obviously owned by an owner of a vineyard or larger farm in the area, since they have a particular brand of wine. Expect good food with a paced, if not slow service, since there is only one server and one cook. Oh, and if they bring out hot sauce that has an eye-dropper in it, it most definitely serious stuff, so administer appropriately on your dish.
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Menu – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Kale and Potato Soup with Wine – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Bifana Portugese Sandwich Traditional – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Bifana Portugese Sandwich Traditional, Hot Sauce in an Eye Dropper – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistro
If you are looking for a small traditional Italian dinner look no further than Incontro Bistro, it is essentially a hole in the wall with a kitchen and seven tables. We sat next to the kitchen and had a wonderful time enjoying the cacophony and smells. The only one thing to point would be they only serve macaroni pasta, no long pasta, so you have to choose from one of those.
Incontro Bistrot – Kitchen – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Caprese for Two – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Fusilli with Tomatoes and Basil, Penne with Ragú – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Panna Cota with Berries – Porto, Portugal
Our trip from Bad Gastein to Linz took us through the Berchtesgaden Alps of Salzburg. As the train starts to navigate through the narrow pass of Salzachtal, the mountains rear up quickly to the point where you aren’t even able to take a photograph of them anymore from the train window.
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Coming into Salzburg – Salzburg, Austria
Linz The City
Linz is a typical Austrian city and the capital of Upper Austria or OberÖsterreich. It is for the most part clean and has the typical European city layout, with an old medieval part surrounded by a newer main street and some other ancillary shopping avenues in a more planned pattern.
Overlook of Linz – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Linz has somewhat of a checkered past and has had a difficult time getting out from under that reputation; there are reminders in the city everywhere, with it’s Hitlerbauten. Aside from that, the places of interest are all in an area comparable to places like Munich or even Copenhagen. So, you should be able to reach everything within a good twenty to thirty minute walk.
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Danube Park – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
Danube river – Nibelungen Bridge – Linz, Austria
One comes away with the immediate impression that few, if any of the structures are original. This is probably partially due to the war and the Linzers going contemporary, when they can. The bridges that jump the Danube are for the most part modern, as is much of the architecture in the city. At times you could mistake the city for a similar place in the United States, since many of the shops use English and have cosmopolitan origins.
The Innenstadt
Most restaurants, cafes and shops seem to be along the Hauptstraße in the Innenstadt. Here is where you will find the main tram line, which goes the entire length of this street all the way across the bridge to Urfahr on the other side.
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Neptune’s Fountain – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Dreifälitigsaule – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Churches
There are several churches worth visiting while in Linz, with special attention to Ursuline and Marien Dom if you are pressed for time. The following two were photographed, but not open at the time. Ignatius Church is also known as the Alter Dom and was the primary church prior to the Linzer Dom being built.
Priester Seminary and church – Linz, Austria
Ignatius Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Ursuline Church
The Ursuline Church is on Landstraße and is somewhat difficult to photograph from the street.
Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
However, it has a magnificent inside which many will find interesting.
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Inside – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Side altar – Ursuline Church – Landstraße – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church
In true protestant style, both the outside and inside of the church are rather basic. But from a historical perspective, still interesting to visit.
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martin Luther Church – Linz, Austria
Marien Dom
This is Linz’s Cathedral and the largest church in Linz and in Austria. The Marien-Dom is also known as Mariä-Empfängnis-Dom, the New Cathedral or the Linzer Dom. It borders the Altstadt and can be found along the Herrenstraße and Baumbachstraße
Front – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Spire – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
It is a true cathedral and adheres true to the dimensions of the cross in its architecture (seen from the air).
High altar wth crown – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
High altar – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Organ – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Nave – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Inside – Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
Marien Basilica, Linzer Dom – Linz, Austria
The Altstadt
The old part of the city is rather small and unremarkable. It is near the Castle and park and runs up to the Upper Austrian government buildings. A short walk down the Hofgasse will bring you to the Schloßberg where the old castle and its grounds are maintained.
Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Former Kremsmünster Abbey. – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Government building and tower – Altstadt – Linz, Austria
Mozart Forum house – Linz, Austria
The Old Town Hall – Hauptplatz – Linz, Austria
Schloßberg Castle
The Schloßberg Castle is not open on Mondays, so before going there you may want to check the entries times and dates. The other direction you can take to reach the castle is via Tiefergraben and walking through the back part of the park first. Walking this way first you will come across Martins Church and a statue of Kepler.
Old buildings – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Castle city gate – Tiefer Graben – Linz, Austria
Martins church – Linz, Austria
Inside – Martins church – Linz, Austria
Martins Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Kepler’s Monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Castle Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
The castle is another example of the Linzers throwing old and new architecture together. We are not at all to happy with this trend (including the Louvre in Paris), however, we do not live in the city either and its people obviously feel a need to move forward and live in a more contemporary setting.
Linz from the park – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Small pond – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Friedrich’s Gate – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Friedrich’s Gate with Wappen – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Old castle wall – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Part of the castle – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Nibelungschiff monument – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Linz – Linz, Austria
The grounds have a small park which has a few monuments in it and a very good overlook of the Danube river and Pöstlingberg.
Observation point – Castle park – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingbergbahn And Pöstlingberg
A good half day trip is taking the tram up to Pöstlingberg using the Pöstlingbergbahn or tram. It starts in the Hauptplatz and stops several times along the way to service local residents and students, since there are a few university stops along the way.
Tickets For Two – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Entrance Pöstlingbergbahn Museum – Linz, Austria
Tram stop Landgutstraße – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Pöstlingberg stop – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
Castle park entrance – Pöstlingbergbahn – Linz, Austria
The view of Linz once you reach the top is truly worth the time and effort.
Overlook – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Wallfahrts Basilica
On the top of Pöstlingberg sits the Wallfahrts Basilica of the Sieben Schmerzen Mariae, or the Seven Pains of Mary. It has a commanding view of Linz and the surrounding areas.
Outside view – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Towers – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
The basilica inside is quite impressive and is also known as the Pöstlingberg Pilgrimage Church.
Inside – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
It also has a very nice park adjacent to it where you can leisurely stroll while the cool air up there offers a breeze on warm days.
Poetry in the park – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Castle mote – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Castle mote – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Promenade – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Promenade – Castle mote – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Patti in the park – Wallfahrt Basilica of the Seven Pains of Mary – Linz, Austria
Grottenbahn
There is also the Grottenbahn for those that have children or are young at heart. Apparently, it is a miniature railway inside that takes young people fantasy ride where there are gnomes and other fairytale characters, most likely with an emphasis on European tales.
Grottenbahn or train – Linz, Austria
Grottenbahn entrance – Linz, Austria
Though we did not take the adventure, we found the cost for one adult to be around 6€/person.
Restaurants
Since we were both feeling a bit under the weather, due to an unusual virus we had both caught; we decided to eat in at the hotel most evenings. Below are the exceptions to that rule and are special places to eat while in Linz.
Jindrak Konditorei
Located throughout Linz are copies of this original konditorei located on Herrenstraße in the altstadt. They are known for the amazing Linzer Torte and other baked delicacies. For any serious dessert lover and a must Kaffee und Kucken stop in mid afternoon when in Linz.
Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Linzer Tort – Jindrak Konditorei – Herrenstraße – Linz, Austria
Across from the Isola di San Giulio sits the town of Orta di San Giulio on a promontory jutting out into the lake towards it. It is mostly known for the hill above it, or Sacro Monte, which contains the World UNESCO site of Sacro Monte di Orta.
Omegna – Navigazione Lago d’Orta Servizio Pubblico di Linea – Photograph from afar
Last Treats Of Our Time On Lake Orta
We actually took the public ferry twice[1]It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta to Orta San Giulio, in order to more fully explore what this little town had to offer. While there, we visited the Sacro Monte, the main street of town and many of the shops that are open along the way. After our short stay it was time to head back and enjoy what was left of Omegna before returning to Turin.
Orta San Giulio
A typical lake town on Lake Orta is San Giulio. As expected, most activity and the main square, is down by the water and along the shore of the lake. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in Piazza Mario Motta, as well as some others sprinkled along the main street and in some alleys.
Orta San Giulio – Piazza Mario Motta
The main street, which changes its name almost every block, contains all of the shops in town. Here one can find anything from leather goods – made in Italy, to Piedmont agricultural goods and other local products.
San Giulio – Sculpture of San Francis of Assissi
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley – No Head Room
San Giulio – Typical Restaurant or Enoteca Sign
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio
San Giulio – Sign Painted on Wall
San Giulio – Main Street
Sacro Monte
There are two ways to walk the hill to Sacro Monte, one can either take a left or a right at the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption on via Caire Albertoletti.
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti – Toward Sacro Monte
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti to Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – The Town from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Overview from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Isola di San Giulio from Via Palma
Most people will take the right, it is much shorter and direct, but as we found out, may not be offered on some phone maps[2]I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able. If one takes the left, you will circumnavigate the hill and eventually bring you back around to where you can enter the Sacro Monte from the back parking lot entrance, about a 15-20 minute walk. Of course there is nothing wrong with this, it is just different and longer, but will get you to the same place.
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Interlinking Paths to each Chapel
The Sacro Monte has numerous chapels which one can visit, each having its own purpose, according to Catholic religious sources. Of the twenty or so chapels and churches that comprise the site, we visited about a handful.
Sacro Monte – The Pozzo or Font
Sacro Monte – Chapel
Sacro Monte – Hand Directing Toward Church Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Main Entrance
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Isola di San Giulio
Sacro Monte – Church of Saint Cyricus and the Cemetery
The Rest of Omegna
Our last couple of days in the town of Omegna were spent mostly relaxing. It rained one day, which really curtailed anything we could do, especially with respect to any hiking we had had in mind. However, we were able to venture out in the evening, after the rain had passed and enjoyed the evening mountain air.
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Side Street at Night
Omegna – Piazza XXIV April – Commune Building
Omegna – Nigoglia Stream at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
As an afterthought we would have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here; but must also honestly say, it’s not for everyone. Omegna is really laid back and probably accounts for the wild swings we saw in the number of tourists we saw day to day. The weekends are definitely busier, and all of the Italian holidays, so plan your trip accordingly. There is also a definite lack in the assortment of restaurants and we found it difficult to chose, after having been here for a week. It is also a haven for backpackers, so if you find them annoying, you might want to head elsewhere since they are pretty much everywhere enjoying the fine hiking that is available in the area.
Restaurants
Rosticceria Ruyi
The Chinese restaurant, Rosticceria Ruyi on via Giuseppe Mazzini, essentially saved us from culinary hell. After a week of Caprese, Pizza and Pasta, a well cook meal of rice and vegetables was sorely needed and this restaurant has the food at excellent prices (e.g. a dish of Cantonese Rice – 3€). However, be aware at the time of this writing, they open at 18:00 for take-away but were not serving sit down inside the restaurant until 20:15, or 8:15PM in the evening. So plan accordingly!
