Tag: churches

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Geneva, Switzerland – Watch Capitol

The Watch Capitol of the world is no doubt Genève, Switzerland. Many, if not all, of the major buildings that surround Lake Léman are adorned with signs from almost every watch manufacturer in Switzerland.

Though one would have thought that at this point, old mechanical watches would have out-grown their usefulness, but there must still be enough interest in them to support all the manufacturers. Apparently it is more like the diamond trade, than a typical consumer item.

Geneva – The City

It is difficult to categorize Geneva since the city appears to have many different sections and subsequently a different look and feel around every corner. It some places almost haphazard, where a blend of modern and provincial architectures are often seen close together.

Hotel Edelweiss

A three star hotel in the Cornavin area of the city. It sits a few blocks from the lake on the north side of the city. Conveniently located to the train station and the lake cruise station, it is a quiet little hotel with a restaurant. The rooms are adequate, though the air conditioning does not work until some undisclosed time in late spring, so your room can be uncomfortable with the sun coming in, so opening the windows is a must.

Lake Léman

Of course the main attraction in Geneva is Lake Léman and the start of the River Rhone. It is a very clear lake and does not appear very large near Geneva, but as you travel out further on the lake it widens into a formidable body of water.

City Parks

There are numerous parks throughout the city, enough to call Geneva a Green City. Though you may not agree or enjoy some of the haphazard architecture that composes the city, they were mindful enough to include a lot of green space throughout it environs.

Bastion Park

One of the main parks, Bastion Park, is located across from the Geneva Theatre and contains the Reformation Wall. It is a very nice park for an afternoon stroll and to cool off. Many of its walkways are shaded and there are fountains where you may collect water for drinking.

Park du Pin

A smaller park further to the east is Park du Pin. It resides on the knob of hill with many pines and other shrubbery. Strolling through it is enough to take your mind off the busy streets that are around it. On the top, there is seating where one can enjoy the breeze that blows in from the lake.

Botanical Gardens

Not far from the center of the city on the N15 tram are the Botanical Gardens of Geneva. An impressive collection of species from every continent adorn this park. It is strategically located close to the Genève-Sécheron train station as well, which also provides commuter transportation for the United Nations in Geneva.

The park is laid out in four sections. One housing most of the botanical gardens plants from each continent. A second has livestock and out buildings for the housing of exotic species from the tropics. A third has a view of the lake and a final section is purposed for outdoor activities.

Basilicas, Cathedrals and Churches

There are a number of important churches in Geneva, below are a few to note.

Basilica Notre Dame of Geneva

The Basilica Notre Dame in Geneva is compact in size and is reminiscent of some large cathedrals we have seen elsewhere[1]Saint Mary’s Church and Cathedral in Hudson, New York. Unfortunately during our stay, mass was being said and we felt obligated to leave.

Russian Orthodox Church

The Russian Orthodox Church in Geneva carries the characteristic golden domes of other orthodox churches. The inside is also gilded in area and very compact. There is a sign asking for donation of 2CHF at the entrance, however during our stay we carried no cash at all on us, so just took a photograph from the doorway.

Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève

The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève is located in the old section of town, perched on the hill close to Place du Bourg-de-Four, an important piazza in the town. Unfortunately it was not open while we were here, being closed for a Stabat Matar concert series.

Tour du Romandie

In 2025 Geneva hosted the Tour du Romandie, the last stage race of the spring before the large stage races of the summer. We were fortunate enough to catch the last stage, Stage 5, or Time Trial Stage, on the end of Pont du Mont Blanc. Very exciting.

Restaurants

Traveling can be daunting, especially when it comes to the different cuisines. The most challenging of which can be the meat based ones, which may not necessarily agree with everyone’s digestive system. Hence, keeping an open mind when in a cosmopolitan city like Geneva is a good thing. French cuisine can be very good, but it can also take a toll on the body after a few days.

Auberge de Savièse

The little restaurant Auberge de Savièse is on Rue des Pâquis and offers typical French cuisine. If you are into crepes, fondues and similar fare, this place offers them all at reasonable prices, at least for Switzerland. They also offer simple things, like soups and salads, if you prefer something lighter. We just had soup and a salad, so didn’t take any photographs.

Zhong Tong

A Chinese restaurant on Rue du Cendrier 10 has pretty good Chinese food. The service is good and it can get busy, but is never overcrowded. If you are craving vegetables, a must stop, especially after all the cheese and other meat oriented dishes exist within the city.

References

References
↑1 Saint Mary’s Church and Cathedral in Hudson, New York
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Ivrea, Italy – Lake Sirio Repose

Ivrea, Italy – Lake Sirio Repose

After a day of familiarizing ourselves with the town Ivrea, it was time to do some hiking and see the surrounding countryside. Though probably not known to the layperson, the lakes and surrounding area were formed by glacier activity around 9700 BCE. All five lakes and the long, gradual hill in the distance that is not a mountain of the Alps, are actually glacial moraines from that time. Here, after a long hike, we were able to repose along Lake Sirio for a long and needed lunch, as well as a magnificent view.

The Five Lakes Hike

In and around Ivrea are hiking trails known as the Five Lakes Hike through which part of the Via Francigena trail also passes. None of the hiking trails are difficult, per se, however many of the surfaces are poor, so hiking shoes or a good trekking shoe is commended.

Unfortunately, due to time and the weather, we were unable to visit all of them and had to forgoe seeing Lake Nero and Lake Campagna. Luckily, they appear very similar to the ones below that we were able to visit, so no harm done.

Lake Sirio

Our first lake that we encountered was Lake Sirio, perhaps the largest of the five and it has the comenserate amount of lake resources around it for swimming, sunbathing and other activities.

The trail winds around this lake perhaps three quarters of the way and then veers off into the woods towards Lake Pistono. We followed the trail and then made a wide circle back around, essentially making a circle, to revisit this lake and have lunch at Restaurant Il Cigno.

Lake Pistono

Lake Piston is a smaller lake and only offers a few trails to get close to the lake. We found this lake surrounded by more water, which also means more insects, so bug lotion or spray is recommended, they are voracious!

This lake has one distinction, it is home to one of the Big Benches, which can be found throughout Piedmont in different areas and settings. Such projects make it fun and interesting to get out and find such silly objects. However, having said that, most are in areas that are out of the way and may present difficulty for some. But if you are able, the sights can be beautiful, so go for it!

Lake San Michele

A smaller lake and closer to Ivrea is lake San Michele. Though we had some bother getting there and visited the Chapel of the Three Kings unintentionally, since the Italians with money just love to block public access to things, even roads, if they can do so.

So, we were unable to continue our travels using the Via Boaro, since it is blocked by a gate and a fancy house with video surveillance, so if you have the same idea – don’t bother. Instead, use the Via Cascinette and Via Lago San Michele roads to get to the lake. There is a lake park entrance that may be used, or you can continue on Via Lago S. Michele and see the lake once you round the bend in the road.

Churches And Chapels

Though not known for the churches or chapels, there are a few that can be visited in the area. We found the following when we continued our Five Lakes Hike the next day. The Sanctuary was open, but the chapel appears closed, perhaps for good.

Restaurants

Il Cigno

We made note of this restaurant on Lake Sirio when we were outbound headed for Lake Pistono and made plans to swing back around for lunch. It has amazing seating right along the shore of the lake with marvelous views of the Graian Alps.

The food is good and prices are reasonable. We were here during the off-season, but one can easily imagine that it gets quite busy in the summer, especially on the weekends, so plan accordingly.

Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano

Not far from our hotel, Hotel 3T, along the Stata Stradale (SS26) is the Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano. We ate here one evening only because we did not want to venture from the hotel, who’s restaurant unfortunately was closed.

Here is where you will find all the locals looking for excellent pizza at great prices. We ordered a salad, two pizzas, half liter of wine and water for around thirty Euros.

La Gustiera

Another good place to eat, but come early if you do not have reservations, is La Gustiera Osteria. Located on Via Quattro Martiri, La Gustiera offers a select menu every evening of authentic Piedmont cuisine, perhaps half fish and half meat, so something for everyone’s taste.

Trattoria Monferrato

Almost directly in the old city center on Via Gariglietti is the Trattoria Monferrato. Having trouble finding a place to eat elsewhere, we found a table free here on a Saturday just by luck.

The food here was very good, a cross between home cooking and something made by a chef. The pork filet with gravy was delicious, along with a side of potatoes and some wine the meal was very enjoyable. Knowing the difficulty we had finding a place to eat, we shared our large table for six with a German couple from Frieburg and had a very entertaining conversation about them traveling through Italy on E-Bike.

Our Hotel

We stayed at one hotel for the entire weekend on the north side of town, only to have more convenience leaving on our hikes.

Hotel 3T

A rather modern hotel with most amenities. The hotel staff can be a bit problematic on the weekends, since we had to ask a few times for towels and toilet paper. So, attention to detail is not a priority.

Another drawback was the restaurant, which was closed for dinner, so we had to go every night, which can be annoying if you had a long and tiring hike. However, the hotel is clean and the bed and pillows were very comfortable, a big plus when you need a good night’s rest.

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Ivrea, Italy – A Piedmont Weekend

Ivrea, Italy – A Piedmont Weekend

If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.

Getting There

This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.

The Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!

The Town

The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.

There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.

Castle Saubauda

A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.

Ivrea Cathedral

Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.

Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.

The Crypt

The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.

Restaurants

Moma

Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.

References

References
↑1 The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome.
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Lisbon, Portugal – Additional Sights

Lisbon, Portugal – Additional Sights

On our last couple of days in Lisbon we went across the bowl[1]I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north. and visited the sights in and around the oldest part of the city, Alfama. Then after that we took the 15E Tram and visited Belém, the most important part of the city with respect to ports and its historical noteriety.

Alfama the Other City

This area includes the Moorish Castle of São Jorge and a number of the overlooks that the area enjoys. Of course, there is also Lisbon Cathedral, which actually looks like it might have been destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake and rebuilt afterwards, but the cathedral and area were largely spared from any damage due to that quake.

Perhaps contrary to popular belief, Lisbon and Porto are very busy ALL YEAR. It appears that since RyanAir has a HUB in Porto, everyone and his cousin comes to the area for at least the weekend and many for the entire week. This not doubt puts real stress on Porto, which I can not imagine during the summer when it is really hot and full of tourists.

Lisbon on the other hand is a larger city and can handle more people, however, it has the double wamy of having cruise ships dock as well. So expect the lower parts of Lisbon to be always crowded.

Some walk from the Chiado part of town, where our hotel was located, and across the promenade of R. Augusta, is a totally different part of the city, Alfama. Here you can find the Santa Apolónia train station; in fact, check any train ticket you have that travels to Porto or beyond, and you might notice that it might not be necessary to go all the way to Oriente train station, some of those trains actually start in Santa Apolónia.

If you walk the area it is quite steep, so be prepared, or for those less inclined to walk and climb, take an alternate mode of transportation like the 12E Tram, a Tuk-Tuk or the bus.

Church of Our Lady of Grace

The Church of Our Lady of Grace stands on top of one of the hills on this side of the city. It has a beautiful ceiling in the nave, but the altar is rather plain and typical among other churches we have seen.

Adjacent to the church is the Convent of Grace, which is temporarily being used as a modern art museum. However, it is nice just to drop in and see the fascinating Portuguese tiling that adorns the walls.

Castle of São Jorge

The Castle of São Jorge is a large Moorish castle with a commanding view of the overall area of Lisbon. It has a surrounding wall with a central castle and a number of amenities, including a cafe and a restaurant.

Though you can purchase tickets at the gate, we found the entire staff appeared to be very confused and we got numerous conflicting stories as to what was available, when and where we had to queue in line. We decided to purchase our tickets online, this was actually quicker and more convienent. However, we still had to stand in a line for about an hour, and it isn’t even tourist season, so bring your patience.

Church of Saint Vincent de Fora

The Church of Saint Vincent de Fora is actually pretty far from everything else, but still walkable. From the Church of Grace and some of the observations points, it can be easily seen in the distance, usually with the National Pantheon dome looming in the frame.

The interior is actually quite spartan and perhaps not worth the effort. However, for a fee you can enter other portions of the grounds like the sacristy, which is known to be far more opulent than the church itself. Having been in so many churches in the past few months, we decided to save our money and continue our travels.

Belém the Port City

Noted in history as the port from which Vasco da Gama departed for his adventures to India, this port town’s most noticeable attribute is it tower. But there is also the monastery, its cloister and the church, all of which represent fabulous examples of the late Gothic Portuguese Manueline style of architecture.

Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem

When you exit the tram the first thing you notice is the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem across the street. Then the Jerónimos Monastery comes into view, as an extension to these architectural marvels.

Belém Tower

The Belém Tower, or more precisely, the Tower of Saint Vincent, stands just off shore and was actually a lighthouse in the past.

Restaurants

Rendez Vous

After we visited the Church of St. Vincent we stopped at a small restaurant along the way back called Rendez Vous. They have sort of an eclectic menu which probably does not appeal to everyone, but we found the food and wine very good and would commend the place to anyone looking for something a little different.

References

References
↑1 I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north.
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Lisbon, Portugal – Piazza And Park

Lisbon, Portugal – Piazza And Park

Our first day consisted mostly of getting to know Lisbon a bit and visiting the main piazza, walking the main avenue and visiting the park. The weather could not have been better and we enjoyed blue skies and mild temperatures for our outing.

Caldeirinha Dock – Lisbon, Portugal

The City

Since our hotel was located in Chiado, the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus was not far away. First we visited a few monuments along the riverfront and some artwork, then we headed for the Piazza of Commerce.

Park Of Europe

The city is actually pretty nice and very clean, the city appears to make a concerted effort to maintain the streets and cleaning activities can be seen all around. A few blocks below our hotel was the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus, a gorgeous waterfront walk that takes you to the piazza. On a clear day, it is crowded by tourists and weekenders walking leisurely toward their unknown destinations.

Piazza of Commerce

The first really large attraction to see in the city is the piazza, which proudly displays the Gate of Rua Augusta as one of its entry points.

This is a very large open space that is surrounded by cafes and restaurants. In the center is the Equestrian Statue of King José I which towers over onlookers. On a bright sunny day it may seem vaguely reminiscent of Venice’s San Marco’s square near the water.

Avenue of Liberation

To get there we walked the Avenue of Liberation, a long and beautiful walk covered by sampietrini (small cobblestone) and dotted by fountains. It is flanked by high-end stores and dealerships and a shoppers paradise no doubt.

Park Of Eduardo VII

It is a rather large park that rises up out of the bowl that is Lisbon is the Park of Eduardo VII, named after a king of the United Kingdom.

Throughout the city you will find many different modes of transportation. The most ubiquitous form would be the Tuk-Tuk trucks that are all over the main tourist spots. When you venture further out, you will have to look for more mundane forms, like the streetcar or tram, which we have in Turin and find eminently fitted for the job. There are also numerous cable cars sprinkled throughout the city, where the hills dictate a hardy form of transport.

Restaurants

Though we have sampled the Portuguese cuisine, we found that there is only so much of it one can eat; so we quickly revert back to the food we love.

La Trattoria

La Trattoria is an Italian restaurant in the San Antonio district of central Lisbon. It is not easy to find and we found ourselves to be practically the only tourists there, the rest were business people who come to enjoy the buffet. It is a contemporary Italian restaurant that offers many staple Italian dishes, as well as the buffet for a fixed price. The food is very good and priced a little higher than you will find in other areas.

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Porto, Portugal – Another Look

Porto, Portugal – Another Look

After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.

Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal

São Bento Train Station

The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.

Praça da Ribeira

A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.

Luís I Bridge

Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.

Vila Nova de Gaia

On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.

Churches

Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.

Church Of Saint Anthony

A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.

Carmo Church

Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.

The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.

The Hidden House

Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.

The Museum

The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.

Restaurants and Cafes

The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.

Casa Deolinda

A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.

The weather too, did not disappoint.

Fabrica da Nata Cafe

Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.

Popina Restaurant

On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.

Popina Restaurant – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
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Porto, Portugal – Our Rainy Start

Porto, Portugal – Our Rainy Start

Wanting to visit Porto, after hearing such good things about the city from family and friends, we decided to book a trip during the off season, March in fact. Our Tickets For Two were of course electronic, so no photographs of them, sorry.

Getting There

From Turin there are two direct flights twice weekly to Porto, Portugal with RyanAir, which is also a designated hub of this carrier. Two weeks ago we booked our stays and flights, well knowing the weather during this time of year is very undependable, it did not disappoint.

The flight was a little over two hours and left in the evening, in fact all the flights on Mondays and Fridays between these two cities are evening flights. We left around 6:30PM and arrived a little after 9:00PM, but it is actually 8:00PM local time, since you gain an hour.

Our arrival was bumpy and wet, so after we arrived, Patti and I decided to take a taxi instead of the metro. It was a good decision, first it only cost us thirty Euros and second, it was pouring out; so getting door to door service was very helpful.

Carris Hotel Ribiera

The Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto is no doubt a collection of a few building that have been extensively renovated. It is close to the water and midway down the river embankment, so no matter which was you walk there will be a hill.

The accommodations are modern enough, though there are a few oddities and some unpleasant things, for one the bed in the room was very hard. Another unfortunate oversight, the safe provided in the room is not bolted to the wall or closet, so anyone can easily just pick it up with all of your possessions and leave the room; we therefore chose not to use it.

Porto – The City

The city of Porto, or Oporto, may pose difficulties for some. For one it essentially lays on the very steep banks of the River Douro, which has its source deep in central Spain, and therefore is very hilly.

The city is known for its buildings having tiled facades, as well as many of its famous buildings, like the Sao Bento train station and its churches and cathedral.

Churches and Cathedrals

There are many churches and cathedrals in the city, some are free to enter, others have been repurposed and charge a fee.

Parish Church of St. Nicholas

The Parish Church of Saint Nicholas was the first church we visited. We were stuck by its tiled exterior. The interior has an amazing golden altar with a painting of a scene after the crucifixion.

Church of Saint Francis

The Church of Saint Francis is without a doubt, one of the most  beautiful churches we have been lucky enough to visit. Almost the entire interior is decorated with carved wooden and gilded ornamentation depicting all different scenes from Catholicism.

The Church Museum

The museum houses an impressive collection of church artifacts and treasures, it is probably worth the reasonable cost of entry alone.

The Crypt

One of the more extensive crypts we have seen. It also has a peculiar floor that has removable panels, no doubt for easy access to the remains in place in each sarcophagus.

Porto Cathedral

Ostensibly the Porto Cathedral is crowning jewel of the church in the city, however we did not find it as interesting as St. Francis. There are several self-guided tours to chose from, including the Bishop’s quarters which we decided against. However, the rest of the grounds are interesting, if only for the tile work, or Azulejo, for which the cathedral and most of the city is so keenly known.

Clerigos Church

Though we did not go in, there is a fee to enter, we enjoyed the church from the street. It wasn’t really clear from our research that it was particularly known for anything, so we decided to skip this church.

Torre Dos Clerigos

Likewise, the clock tower associated with it looks impressive from the street and probably has some interesting points inside, however, again we chose not to indulge on paying for entry, since we had no inclination for climbing the stairs to the top, we had already seen an overview of the city from other vantage points.

Restaurants and Cafes

Most restaurants and cafes in Porto are small, actually very small, and you will be lucky to find a place to sit down if you are not lucky or willing to wait. For dinner it is always best to make a reservation, almost all restaurants take and honor them, though some may restrict the amount of time you may keep you table.

Forno Velho

This restaurant is part of the Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto and serves a limited, but very good selection of food from their menu. We ate here because it was late, around 9:30PM and raining outside. Though they do get a premium price for their entrees, the food was very good and well prepared, and we received a fifteen percent discount on our bill.

Rocinha Cafe

On our first morning in Porto we ate at the Rocinha Cafe, which lies around the corner on the same block as our hotel. It offered an English Breakfast for ten Euros each, and we were able to substitute our cappuccinos as our beverage of choice, so our total bill was twenty Euros.

A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant

For lunch we ate at A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant. This establishment is obviously owned by an owner of a vineyard or larger farm in the area, since they have a particular brand of wine. Expect good food with a paced, if not slow service, since there is only one server and one cook. Oh, and if they bring out hot sauce that has an eye-dropper in it, it most definitely serious stuff, so administer appropriately on your dish.

Incontro Bistro

If you are looking for a small traditional Italian dinner look no further than Incontro Bistro, it is essentially a hole in the wall with a kitchen and seven tables. We sat next to the kitchen and had a wonderful time enjoying the cacophony and smells. The only one thing to point would be they only serve macaroni pasta, no long pasta, so you have to choose from one of those.

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Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part Three

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part Three

What follows are some final thoughts on our stay in Lecce. Though we found the city intriguing, having an interesting history, some good food and enough sights to see to keep you busy, we don’t feel comfortable commending it for more than a few days at best. For the most part, the Città Vecchia is very quiet and doesn’t open until after noon. Even with the myriad number of churches, there are practically no other monuments, fountains or public places to enjoy. Other than that, there are not many connecting little towns in the area to plan day trips around.

Museums

To wrap up our visit to Lecce, we still had one museum left on our church ticket to see, as well as the private museum of Museo Faggiano. So on Monday we planned visiting them, eating lunch and then having a light afternoon.

Museo Faggiano

A private museum, the Museo Faggiano is located on Via Ascanio Grandi, 56/58, not far from our Bed and Breakfast. The host has a written tour guide in most European languages and everything is numbered, so it is not a difficult self-guided tour.

The museum was created by mistake in 2001 when Luciano Faggiano and his sons were digging to fix a plumbing issue. What they found made front page news, even in the United States. While digging out certain areas they discovered artifacts and burial places and had to stop and inform the proper authorities.

Luckily, with the proper guidance and help, they were able to turn it into the museum you see today, thanks to the efforts of the Archaeological Superintendence of Taranto and the Idume Cultural Association. The archaeological collection has artifacts starting in the fifth century BCE and spans the Roman, Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

From the eleventh until the thirteenth century the place was a Templar house and used for purposes of their cause. After that, it was converted into a convent in the early seventeenth century for the Franciscan Nuns of Saint Claire.

There are places along the tour, especially when descending where the well is and a few other spots, where it is rather cramped and the stairwell a bit claustrophobic, so take care.

There is an overlook observatory, but frankly there is not much to see from that perch. It was probably used by the Templars as a lookout or alternative escape route since it appears to be attached to many of the surrounding roofs in the area.

Story Of The Five Cavers

Apparently another archaeological dig is also documented in one of the rooms in the museum. It has to do with five cavers who discovered neolithic archaeological artifacts, handprints and pictograms in caves where they were spelunking around Otranto, Italy.

Museo Sigismondo Castromediano

The Museo Sigismondo Castromediano is a large and modern museum south of the old city on Viale Gallipoli. It houses ancient archaeological artifacts which are arranged in special themes.

Churches

We were told there was an interesting church to see in the new section of the city, so we headed over there to see both it and the water fountain not far from it.

Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio

The Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio, or Sanctuary of Saint Anthony in Fulgenzio is located the newer part of Lecce. It is worth a visit because of the beautiful frescos that adorn its ceilings.

Restaurants

There are a few more restaurants that we visited while in Lecce. Of note are the ones below and of singular distinction is the Chinese Restaurant which we both found a surprise, not only for the extensive menu, but also for the quality of its foods.

Gusto Liberrima

It can be difficult on the weekends, especially Sunday, to find a place to eat that you do not need reservations. Gusto Liberrima located on Corte dei Cicala, 12, appears to be large enough to accommodate more people and might have openings when others do not. We met our new found friends Roland and Amanda at another place we tried to get into, only to be denied and then we tried Gusto Liberrima.

It has Cucina Tipica for the Puglia and other items on the menu, so one should be able to find something to their taste. Roland ordered the Finocchio Arrosto which we tried and it was amazing. It was roasted fennel with parmesan cream, pistachio and almonds crumbled with fresh truffle, very tasty.

Patti and I both had the Velutata di Zucca or the pumpkin soup with gorgonzola, rosemary oil, basil cream, croutons, it was delicious. Patti ordered the Insalata Mediterranea which is made with rocket, carrots, tuna fillet, leccine olives, chicory, friscous, mustard mayonnaise, caramelized red onion and I ordered the Sagne Ritorte, which is just homemade pasta in a ragù, along with an Insalata Mista.

Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du

Along the Viale dell’Università is the Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du. This restaurant has a modern interior and a lengthy menu offering items perhaps not very common. So if you looking for a change of cuisine from the usual Tipica Cucina, then this place may be the answer. Unfortunately at the time of this writing I could not find a website for them.

The Noodle and Vegetable Soup is very good and can be highly recommended. Other dishes, including the Vegetable Rice Saltate and Cabbage with garlic and oil are also excellent choices.

For our second time around we ordered the same soup and rice but changed our main dishes to Eggplant with Chopped Meat and Scallions, and Sweet and Sour Pork with Green Peppers.

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Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part Two

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part Two

Though some people choose to ignore basilicas, cathedrals and churches for whatever reason, Lecce is home to more than just a few. It seems that with almost every bend in the street, there is another one waiting to be entered by the faithful or curious. The truth probably is, that most visitors are just that, visitors and tourists.

Lecce’s Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches

The Basilica di Santa Croce was the first basilica or church we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets. Yes, the most significant basilicas and churches in Lecce have a fee, 10€ per person, which gives you two weeks of access to all the places listed on the ticket. As of this writing, the following were accessible[1]please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket:

      • Basilica di Santa Croce
      • Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo
      • Cripta della Cattedrale
      • Chiesa di San Matteo
      • Chiesa di Santa Chiara
      • Basilica di Santa Croce
      • Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
      • Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
      • Biblioteca Bernardini – Convitto Palmieri
      • Chiostro Antico Seminario – Palazzo del Seminario

Basilica di Santa Croce

The Basilica di Santa Croce is located on via Umberto I and was the first one church on the list that we visited, only because that is where we purchased our tickets.

Il Duomo – Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo

The Duomo in Lecce is also referred to as the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta e Sant’Oronzo, or the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Orontius, or simple the Lecce Cathedral, and is laid out like a proper Latin cathedral.

The impressive nave, crossing and transepts are in the Baroque style and do not resemble other more impressive Gothic Cathedrals you will find in Europe, nonetheless there are things to see!

There a multiple radiating chapels, altar and two rather elegant transepts that one should admire for some time.

The ceiling is also a marvel. Built from wood, it is intricately woven into a grand geometric pattern for anyone to enjoy.

Cripta della Cattedrale

The Cripta della Cattedrale, or the Crypt of the Cathedral, was restored in 2017 to its present condition. However, archaeological activities are still ongoing and work appears in some areas to have only started. The rest of the crypt, with the exception of a few painting, appears rather sterile.

Chiesa di San Matteo

The Chiesa di San Matteo, or Church of Saint Matthew, is small and very ornate and well decorated inside for its size. The marble was unquestionably carved by master craftsmen on top of their game.

Chiesa di Santa Chiara

The Chiesa di Santa Chiara , or Church of Saint Claire, is a beautiful Baroque church in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II in Lecce. It has some marvelous side altars honoring some of the important saints from the area.

Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra

The Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum, has a unique collection of religious artifacts of Catholic origins from the area.

Other Basilicas, Cathedrals And Churches

There are a number of other cathedrals and churches worth your attention. Most map applications and a good map from a hotel, B&B or rental may have them marked. As of this writing, none of these cathedrals or churches required any entry fee or donation.

Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista

The Basilica Del Rosario E Di San Giovanni Battista, or the Basilica of the Rosary and of Saint John the Baptist, was under restoration when we visited. The outside appears to be falling the street and they have erected scaffolding to protect the public. Inside, the entire roof trusses under the crossing were under reconstruction. Aside from that, the inside was rather bare and actually looked like a construction site, so aside from the alters which are still in place, there is not must else to see.

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Grazia

Located directly across from the Roman amphitheater on via Ernesto Alvino and near the Castello Carlo V di Lecce (Castle Charles of Lecce) , is another excellent choice to visit.

Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio

Another church that you may enter for no fee is the Chiesa Del Gesu Del Buon Consiglio which is on the Strada Romana, or the Roman street, referred to today as Via Francesco Rubichi. The ornate altar and backdrop of the Apse is worth a stop. This along with the amazing wooden ceiling, these two things are demand some consideration and adoration.

Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza O Delle Alcantoarine

The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Provvidenza o Delle Alcantoarine, or the Church of Saint Mary of Providence or the Alcantoarine has a beautiful altar and wonderful Morena Glass chandelier along with a very simple interior.

Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga

The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Porta O Di San Luigi Gonzaga, or the Church of Saint Mary of the Gate or of San Louis Gonzaga is another free church that you can stop in and admire very near to the Porta Napoli. Simple for its layout, its architecture is developed around a dome, rather than the traditional church layout.

Chiesa di San Niccolo dei Greci

Unable to enter, we were only able to take a photograph of the facade or outside of the church.

Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo

The small chapel of Cappella di San Gregorio Taumaturgo is located very near to the Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, or Sacred Art Museum; in fact, it right at the end of that tour.

References

References
↑1 please note: the names may appear slightly different or abbreviated on your ticket
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Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part One

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part One

The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.

Getting There

From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.

The City

Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.

The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.

Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles

There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.

There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.

The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.

In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.

The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.

Roman Ruins

Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.

Where We Stayed

For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque

We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.

Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.

The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.

On the other side, there was another area with a television, breakfast table and then a bed with a desk for writing.

Restaurants

La Cucina di Mamma Elvira

This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.

The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.

I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.

Miro Wine And Lounge

We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.

While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.

Tranquillo

The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.

We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.