Ostuni, Italy – Città Bianca

Ostuni, Italy – Città Bianca

Often referred to as La Città Bianca, or the White City, from certain vantage points, it does appear somewhat like the houses on Santorini island of the Greek Archipelago. It is however difficult getting a good photograph that represents it from a distance, unless you drive a car.

Getting There

A twenty minute train ride from Brindisi Centrale and a five minute bus drive from Ostuni Zona Sisri, is the small ancient city of Ostuni. The trains run at least every hour in both directions and perhaps even more often around rush hour times.

Even more importantly, it should be noted that getting back, not all Fermata are active where the bus should stop. Apparently, during the off-season the only one that remains active is the one at via tenente Specchia, where we were left off at the start of our journey. So plan on returning there and not at the one of the other two bus stops sometimes indicated in the city by other information sources.

The White City

The White City, or the Città Bianca[1]which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city, is located on a mount or hill with a commanding view of the plain below. The newer part of the city stretches out towards the south and is rather residential and nondescript in nature.

While in the main piazza, or Piazza della Libertà, this is a good place to stop for a coffee or drink. Here you will find several things to see, including the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo and the Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi.

Ahead, the climb is not that bad, but the city streets and passageways are rather serpentine and have a myriad of steps that go up and down, so bring rested legs. We spent a good part of a day here, we walked and climbed all over the place and traveled just over seven miles.

The Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta and Arco Scoppa are located in the same place in the Centro Storico di Ostuni at the top of the hill.

While meandering through the streets of Ostuni, we noticed several interesting doorways that had unusual flourishes and ornate features.

Aside from that, there are mostly lazy narrow streets, stairways and white houses in the city. From time to time, you will come across places to eat, but during this time of year, most of them are closed. They most likely open later in the March timeframe, when the tourist activity picks up.

Restaurants

Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni

The Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni restaurant offers typical Italian food with some Pugliese items thrown in, so there is something for everyone. We had met some fellow travelers while on the bus from the Ostuni train station with whom we engaged in conversation during the ride. In order to finish what we had begun, they suggested we meet for lunch and this is the place they picked.

Patti and I ordered and shared the Bruschetta. Then she ordered a Tuna Salad and I had the Cheese Gnocchi with ragu. Unfortunately, we took no photographs and you will have to build a mental image of what we ate.

When we left, Roland and Amanda were on their way back to Lecce, where we are headed tomorrow and we returned to Brindisi. We traded telephone numbers and promised to stay in touch for a lunch or dinner when there, since they will still be there during our visit later this week into next.

References

References
1 which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city

Brindisi, Italy – Rainy Day Detour

Brindisi, Italy – A Rainy Day Detour

If it is raining out and there is not much else to do, then a trip to Brindisi could be the cure for your rainy day. Though not much to see, nor much to look at, Brindisi does offer a few points of interest. We mainly used it for a short respite during our eighteen day visit to Mezzogiorno.

Getting To Brindisi

From Bari we reserved seats on the FrecciaArgento[1]FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas which only takes a hour. There are other regional offerings, however they usually take longer but are less expensive, so there are options.

Brindisi does have a airport that is serviced by RyanAir. While here we saw several airplanes land and take off during the day and the airport was directly across the water on the other side of the city from our hotel.

Bindisi The City

Brindisi’s Citta Vecchia, or historical center, is a bit elongated but does reach to the bay where the port is located. The Corso Roma is the main avenue for shopping, though it cannot be compared to the one in Bari or other larger towns or cities we have visited along the coast.

Piazza Il Duomo And The Roman Column

The Piazza Il Duomo has the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista and some other sites to see. The cathedral is rather plain inside, but somewhat impressive from the outside.

The Colonne Romane, or Roman Column, was erected in the city to define one of the endpoints of the Appian Way, or the extent of Rome. Others have countered that they were merely erected as a visual aid for mariners to know where the actual port was located. There were two originally, of which only one still exists in all of its glory, the other crumbled in the mid sixteenth century. The crumbled remains of the one were donated to Lecce for their column.

Grande Albergo Internazionale

Our hotel was the Grande Albergo Internazionale located on the Viale Regina Margherita down by the water. We booked a suite which overlooked the water.

It is a somewhat dated hotel, but has enough amenities to be comfortable. However, the outside and inside looks like it is in need of some restoration. Our room was spacious and the bathroom modern which was a big benefit.

Lungomare di Brindisi

As the name implies, you are able to walk along the water for some length along the Lungomare di Brindisi. It starts near the parking area when you enter the port down to, but no further than the Approdo delle Indie. After that begins an Italian Naval Base and you are redirected up a set of stairs and away from the shore.

Brindisi Shuttle Service

From the Lungomare, or Viale Regina Margherita, about where it intersects with Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is one location you can pick up the shuttle. It has a four stop route along the inlet and completes the circuit about once every twenty minutes. One use, simple route charge was 1.20€ per person, which only excepts contactless credit card or NFC contactless payments from your phone, NO CASH.

Saint John At The Sepulchre

The St John At The Sepulchre is an ancient eleventh century Church of the Holy Sepulcher with circular construction built over a pre-existing church. It was built to resemble the ancient Anastasis Rotunda of the Holy Selpuchre in Jerusalem with the intention of providing a memory of that structure.

The monument is intended to show the close relationship between Brindisi and the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. Built by the Knight Order of the Canons Regular sometime before 1128, it was conceived to give those who could not pilgrimage to the Holy Land a feeling for that destination, and for those who have, a reminder of it.

The hole in the floor shows Roman mosaics belonging to a large Roman house dating back to the first and second century CE.

There are multiple frescoes on the walls depicting several different important themes of Christianity. All of which have been damaged by previous ownership, no doubt to repurpose the building for other uses.

Porta Napoli

The Porta Napoli, also known as the Porta Mesagne, is the oldest entrance to the ancient city. It was constructed during Roman times by Marc Anthony to isolate the city from land side invasions. The Ruga Magistra or main street originated from this gate, which coincides today with via Carmine and via Filomeno Consiglio today.

Castello Svevo

Unlike the map that one of the major search providers tries to imply you can walk the entire way around bay to the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia; this cannot be done. We found out the difficult way by walking to Castello Svevo or the Swabian Castle of Brindisi, only to find out that you cannot enter without a pass, it is an active Naval Base. Temporary passes can be obtained online, but there is a forty-eight hour waiting period (don’t ask – I have no idea why, however it is required before you may return and enter). Since we are not staying here that long we decided to forgo that pleasure.

So, denied entry, we changed our plans and headed for the Fontana Tancredi, thinking that it might be a sight to see, and afterwards we could just walk toward the bay and find the Lungomare; no such luck on both accounts. Most of the area in and around the castle is restricted and cannot be entered, the fountain is fenced off, overgrown and only trickles water, so total failure on both accounts.

In fact, they have very large naval ships anchored here as well temporary housing for illegal immigrants. We attempted to go as far as the tennis club, or Circolo Tennis Club, but then turned around. Had we known beforehand, we could have continued further and picked up the bay shuttle about a half kilometer further.

While walking back, we discovered the Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli church. A nondescript church from the outside offers a better view from the inside. If you are in the area of Via Ferrante Fornari and see the church, it is worth to stick your head in and take a look.

Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia

The large monument across the bay is the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia, a naval monument erected for the fallen navy personal of Italy. It has two shore guns on either side and may be climbed for a fee, there is a lookout on the top that has a commanding view of the city.

Restaurants

Most of the restaurants that we visited were down by the water and along the Lungomare.

Ristorante Windsurf

We chose this restaurant out of convenience, mostly because of the rain and threat of thunderstorms, and glad we did because while we were eating it poured. It was also conveniently located thirty meters from our hotel entrance.

The food is typical pizzeria food with a concentration on sea food for everything else. I chose a pizza and Patti stuck with a panini that they offered on the menu. The Negroamaro from Puglia was actually very nice, dry but not overly tannic.

Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi

A similar cafe and pizzeria as WindSurf is Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi, located just below the stairs to the Roman Column. We stopped here for a simple lunch consisting of salads, bread and pizza points. The wine was house wine, but was very good.

We also stopped later in the evening for dinner, since they were one of the few restaurants around showing pasta with ragu sauce on their menus. Patti ordered the Penne all’Arrabbiata and I ordered the Tagliatelle al Ragú.

Final Thoughts

Although we both thought that Brindisi is rather clean and has some things to offer, we weren’t so sure that we visit, if we didn’t have so much time on our hands being retired. Therefore, for the casual visitor to Italy, we would not commend a visit, Bari and Trani have more to offer.

References

References
1 FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas

Trani, Italy – Unexpected Delight

Trani, Italy – Unexpected Delight

On a lark, Patti decided to go to Trani, Italy for the day. The morning was clear, blue and fantastic, so we could not expect better weather.

Trani is a seaside town on the Adriatic Sea in the region of Apulia. It has great wine, olive oil and food. It has an active fishing community which supports the local economy.

The City

The city itself is well laid out, even for an ancient town. The historic center though windy and curvy is very clean and well labeled for tourist. After about an hour here we found it a most unexpected delight and were glad we came.

The Piazze Quercia has a least one cafe or bar which has outside seating. It is a great place in the spring to stop before lunch and get a drink. We find it relaxing just to watch the locals and the boats going in and out of the harbor, and of course, enjoying the sunshine and the fifty degree weather.

The Port Of Trani

There is a beautiful walkway or sidewalk that enables you to walk around the entire port. Unlike Bari, where you can do this if you can tolerate the smell, the port is clean and well maintained.

The fishing community appears to be active daily and some of the ships sell their catch right on the pier. You can find anything from live shrimp and fish to octopus. So, if you can cook in, bring your grocery bag and your wallet.

Parco Giochi Villa Comunale

The Parco Giochi Villa Comunale is located to the right of the Port of Trani as you walk as far as you can in the city. It has a portal that leads up to a great observation place, so that you get a commanding view of the boats and the jetties containing the lighthouses, which are all a different color.

There are some interesting monuments and an old anchor. Walking further, you will happen upon a aviary at the end of the park where they house parakeets.

We actually found it to be an amazing little park with little things to see, along with the aviary with parakeets they also have real parrots, which you will eventually notice are in the trees all around you. When we were here, they were all doing their crazy mating calls and dances on the ground, what a cacophony!

Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta

In the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta, also known as Trani Cathedral. This cathedral is dedicated to Saint Nichola the Pilgrim. It is a very large structure, but it only opens later in the day around 15:30.

There are some restrictions when you enter, so please read the signs, though we saw no enforcement; having said that, it was winter and the slow season, so it may be impractical for them to oversee traffic during that time.

Castello Svevo di Trani

The Castello Svevo di Trani in just a small walk from the Piazza Duomo and Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta. There is actually not much to see, but it does have a few small things of interest. At one time it was a prison and had other incarnations as you go back in time to protect the town. It is also noted to have a large clock on its edifice.

Restaurants

Since we were only doing a day trip, we were only able to visit one restaurant and that was for lunch.

Giù a Sud, Green Bistro

The Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot is located at Piazza Cesare Battisti in Trani. After viewing the menu outside we decided we would give it a try and we are glad we did.

The food and restaurant is sourced locally from green producers and prepared using artisanal recipes. They had a bean and lentil soup with croutons which was just delicious. I am pretty sure it is probably something that comes off the menu in the summer, but you may ask, in Italy you never know, especially in Mezzogiorno. We thoroughly enjoyed it.

Monopoli, Italy – No Park Place

Monopoli, Italy – Not Park Place nor Marvin Gardens

If you are looking for something to do and have a free day to explore, then you might consider Monopoli, Italy. Located about forty minutes by train south of Bari, Monopoli is a true workers town, there is no fluff here.

Pescaturismo

The city has a basic port and does conduct fishing and fishing tours or fish tourism (pescaturismo or Fatti piu là), during the spring and summer months, on simple craft that you can reserve. I am not sure of the details, but if you are into catching your own food, this may be something to investigate. In any case, their boats are a bright blue and easy to see in the harbor.

Churches

Probably one of the most frequent ancient building to see in Monopoli, perhaps like any other Italian city, is the church, cathedral or basilica. In Monopoli they are all around. Since there is not much else to see in this quaint little city, looking at churches may pass the time.

Monuments And Piazzas

There are few monuments and piazzas in this town. The piazzas that we found, were either squeezed in somewhere or rather elongated and looked more like a road than a square.

However, in the new part of town, there is one large piazza that works instead of all the ones lacking in the old quarter, that is Piazza Vittoria Emanuele II.

Restaurants

There is not much to offer, especially during the winter seasons. There are frankly no restaurants in the old city open, so you will have to try your luck during off times in the newer sections of the city.

Michelangelo – L’arte del gusto

For lunch we ate here. Nothing extravagant, just a simple salad and the daily pasta. We were able to sit outside on the corner and watch the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and enjoy our meal.

Bari, Italy – Ancient City Wonder – Part Two

Bari An Ancient City Wonder

In part one was an initial take on how Bari is an ancient city built on a peninsula in the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. In this second part, some of the cathedrals and museums that are interesting and available to see upon visiting are discussed.

Museums

Of course ancient Bari has its museums, most of which record activities by humans that predate the Roman Empire. In some places in Italy and the Mediterranean Sea, one might come to the conclusion, that if one could dig deep enough one would uncover the big bang as well.

The Svevo Castle

If the Bari peninsula were to be looked at like it was a triangle, then the Castello Normanno-Svevo or Norman-Swabian Castle, would occupy the entire lower left hand angle. It is a huge building that occupies a considerable amount of real estate on that side of the old city.

Surrounded by a moat that is currently grown in, the exterior appears well kept in spots, but requiring considerable work in other places.

The Swabian Castle Museum

The museum does not contain many artifacts per se, but it does have a very good multi-media presentation and displays in some of the larger spaces.

Churches and Cathedrals

Cathedral Of Bari

The Cathedral of Bari was built mostly in the last thirty years of the twelfth century. It was built on top of the destroyed Byzantine church that used to stand, as well as older Roman ruins.

The interior is rather majestic for an ancient Catholic church and owes much to the simplicity of its architecture.

The Crypt

The church, architect and builders ensured that below this amazing edifice would be a crypt. The crypt preserves the remains of Saint Sabinus in the main altar, but there are other notable sarcophagi as well.

The Archaeological Ruins

Alongside and even below the crypt are some amazing archaeological ruins that extend all the way back to the third century. This includes some incredible mosaics, frescos and even a partial roman road, where one can even see the remains of where the wagon wheels once traveled.

The Church Museum

Finally there is a small museum showing old church vestments and other relics. Not particularly of much interest, so if you wish to skip this part you probably can without much guilt.

Though having said that, the most interesting thing I though they had were a set of old hymnal parchment rolls.

Restaurants

Ciclatera

Ciclatera, under the sea is a great spot to stop for a drink or to have a small bite to eat. Located on the Lungomare right after the Fort of San Antonio, this little cafe or restaurant has a great bar and food menu. We only stopped for a drink, but what we could see of the menu, the prices seemed pretty reasonable.

Piccinni 28

Located one block over in Murat from the old city on via Niccola Piccinni, is Piccinni 28 Italian restaurant. It appears to be a favorite for locals, since we saw numerous work groups come in and have lunch.

They offer pizza and a typical Italian menu with some Apulian twists to it. For us, it was trying something new, so we of course picked the Spaghetti All’Assassina, or assassin’s spaghetti, an overcooked spicy dish with ragu that is rather tasty.

That along with a fine glass of wine and an Insalata Mista on top makes for a great lunch, enjoy!

Linz, Austria – Home Of Linzer Torte

Our trip from Bad Gastein to Linz took us through the Berchtesgaden Alps of Salzburg. As the train starts to navigate through the narrow pass of Salzachtal, the mountains rear up quickly to the point where you aren’t even able to take a photograph of them anymore from the train window.

Linz The City

Linz is a typical Austrian city and the capital of Upper Austria or OberÖsterreich. It is for the most part clean and has the typical European city layout, with an old medieval part surrounded by a newer main street and some other ancillary shopping avenues in a more planned pattern.

Linz has somewhat of a checkered past and has had a difficult time getting out from under that reputation; there are reminders in the city everywhere, with it’s Hitlerbauten. Aside from that, the places of interest are all in an area comparable to places like Munich or even Copenhagen. So, you should be able to reach everything within a good twenty to thirty minute walk.

One comes away with the immediate impression that few, if any of the structures are original. This is probably partially due to the war and the Linzers going contemporary, when they can. The bridges that jump the Danube are for the most part modern, as is much of the architecture in the city. At times you could mistake the city for a similar place in the United States, since many of the shops use English and have cosmopolitan origins.

The Innenstadt

Most restaurants, cafes and shops seem to be along the Hauptstraße in the Innenstadt. Here is where you will find the main tram line, which goes the entire length of this street all the way across the bridge to Urfahr on the other side.

Churches

There are several churches worth visiting while in Linz, with special attention to Ursuline and Marien Dom if you are pressed for time. The following two were photographed, but not open at the time. Ignatius Church is also known as the Alter Dom and was the primary church prior to the Linzer Dom being built.

Ursuline Church

The Ursuline Church is on Landstraße and is somewhat difficult to photograph from the street.

However, it has a magnificent inside which many will find interesting.

Martin Luther Church

In true protestant style, both the outside and inside of the church are rather basic. But from a historical perspective, still interesting to visit.

Marien Dom

This is Linz’s Cathedral and the largest church in Linz and in Austria. The Marien-Dom is also known as Mariä-Empfängnis-Dom, the New Cathedral or the Linzer Dom. It borders the Altstadt and can be found along the Herrenstraße and Baumbachstraße

It is a true cathedral and adheres true to the dimensions of the cross in its architecture (seen from the air).

The Altstadt

The old part of the city is rather small and unremarkable. It is near the Castle and park and runs up to the Upper Austrian government buildings. A short walk down the Hofgasse will bring you to the Schloßberg where the old castle and its grounds are maintained.

Schloßberg Castle

The Schloßberg Castle is not open on Mondays, so before going there you may want to check the entries times and dates. The other direction you can take to reach the castle is via Tiefergraben and walking through the back part of the park first. Walking this way first you will come across Martins Church and a statue of Kepler.

The castle is another example of the Linzers throwing old and new architecture together. We are not at all to happy with this trend (including the Louvre in Paris), however, we do not live in the city either and its people obviously feel a need to move forward and live in a more contemporary setting.

The grounds have a small park which has a few monuments in it and a very good overlook of the Danube river and Pöstlingberg.

Pöstlingbergbahn And Pöstlingberg

A good half day trip is taking the tram up to Pöstlingberg using the Pöstlingbergbahn or tram. It starts in the Hauptplatz and stops several times along the way to service local residents and students, since there are a few university stops along the way.

The view of Linz once you reach the top is truly worth the time and effort.

Wallfahrts Basilica

On the top of Pöstlingberg sits the Wallfahrts Basilica of the Sieben Schmerzen Mariae, or the Seven Pains of Mary. It has a commanding view of Linz and the surrounding areas.

The basilica inside is quite impressive and is also known as the Pöstlingberg Pilgrimage Church.

It also has a very nice park adjacent to it where you can leisurely stroll while the cool air up there offers a breeze on warm days.

Grottenbahn

There is also the Grottenbahn for those that have children or are young at heart. Apparently, it is a miniature railway inside that takes young people fantasy ride where there are gnomes and other fairytale characters, most likely with an emphasis on European tales.

Though we did not take the adventure, we found the cost for one adult to be around 6€/person.

Restaurants

Since we were both feeling a bit under the weather, due to an unusual virus we had both caught; we decided to eat in at the hotel most evenings. Below are the exceptions to that rule and are special places to eat while in Linz.

Jindrak Konditorei

Located throughout Linz are copies of this original konditorei located on Herrenstraße in the altstadt. They are known for the amazing Linzer Torte and other baked delicacies. For any serious dessert lover and a must Kaffee und Kucken stop in mid afternoon when in Linz.

Copenhagen, Denmark – The City and More

Below are some final meanderings about the city, several other places that we ate and a few places that we saw, that just didn’t fit in any of the former entries.

Copenhagen

Some final thoughts on the city and its location. The weather when we were here was borderline terrible. So if you plan on visiting, you should check the extended forecast prior to packing. It was August and we dealt with temperatures in the 50-60°F range with rain. After the first few days, we just had to ask someone if this what the weather is always like. We were told that the weather is extremely variable and they have even seen snow in the middle of summer! Again, be prepared. We packed both long and short pants and shirts, along with raincoats and glad we did; but only because we knew the forecast had low temperatures and rain.

Our Canal Tour

Touring a city such as Copenhagen, which has plenty of canals and waterways, would not be complete without a canal or boat tour. There are plenty to choose from and you can visit the Information Center to find our more or the city’s website. Make sure you prepare properly for the weather, few boats on the canal tours are covered and those only leave at certain times of the day, so plan accordingly, they do go in the rain.

They also go in extraordinary high tides as well. Our tour was modified because the tides had come in extra high, leaving little space under the bridges. Therefore, we could not go down some canals and I think our tour ended up a bit longer that it probably should have been.

Trinitatis Kirke

Trinitatis Kirke, or Trinitatis church, is a church built in the seventeenth century that is connected to The Round Tower. It was initially built to support the university, since it was part of the overall Trinitatis Complex. The Library Hall, which is built over one of the church’s naves dictated the size of the church when it was originally constructed. In any event, the church has a baroque look and feel to it which may be of interest to some and the organ is certainly something you should see.

The Round Tower

The Round Tower is actually an odd building for several reasons. At first I thought it was a shot tower, where they used to make gunshot or ball bearings. It just did not make any sense to me to build such a structure with a central column and a ramp for horses, unless it had some manufacturing purpose. Moreover, the rebus on the building has been loosely interpreted as Lead, God and The Correct Teaching; which also initially reinforced my belief that it had some military purpose; the telescope and Library Hall being repurposed after other ways to make ammunition came into vogue.

I surprised to find the edifice was built with a ramp inside so that the horses where able to bring the heavy equipment up the tower for the telescope installation. The central column was later intentionally used as a toilet by the staff who found it arduous to walk down the ramp to go to the bathroom.

The telescope installation was built on top of the tower some time after that was completed. The Library Hall was initially used as a library and has now been repurposed as an Art Exhibition hall.

There are also a few astronomical oddities to see, if you look up while you are waiting for the light to change to ascend to the observation lookout. They are a map of the solar system and a zodiac timepiece.

Restaurants

Some last insights into food and some places to go or avoid.

Nebbiolo

Essentially a wine bar serving Aperitivo, or charcuterie and other small items to eat while you enjoy their wine. Since we were not particularly hungry one evening, we tried this place which happened to be right next door to the Chinese restaurant we visited.

Dong Yuan

A very good Chinese restaurant right around the corner from our hotel. The place is always busy, but it does take reservations. The prices are reasonable, considering the prices in the rest of Copenhagen. They also have half-bottles of wine at a very good price, I would commend a Bordeaux.

Taste

A lunch establishment with very limited seating, so show up early if you want one. We sat inside, since the weather was intolerable and the outside seating had little, if any cover. The food is good, but a bit oily. The grilled sandwich I ordered could not be picked up, so I had to cut it into pieces using a knife and fork.

Bistro Verde

This was a quick find before we left Copenhagen for Turin. This restaurant offers a Sunday Brunch at a decent price, the only problem was, it was a vegan dish. So we just ordered a pair of normal cappuccinos and croissants and enjoyed the beautiful Sunday morning before leaving.

Ljubljana, Slovenia – A Last Take

Ljubljana  – Still Remains

We had little slated for our last full day in Ljubljana, but we did want to see the cathedral and Tivoli Park, both of which we had missed in our former romps around town. I guess that is all that remains of our stay here, which we thoroughly and unexpectedly enjoyed.

The Roman Wall

Back in Roman times the settlement which became this city was called Emona. In order to protect Emona, the Romans built a wall around it, like most other Roman towns of that era.

This wall was reconstructed in the early nineteenth century, along with a pyramidal feature for one of its gates.

The Ljubljana Cathedral

Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Tickets For Two

The Ljubljana Cathedral is not always open to the public, so you have to check the side door for the times. There is a 2€ fee per person to see the cathedral, so be prepared pay, if you want a peek.

Tivoli Park

Tivoli Park, also known as Tivoli City Park, is pretty large and covers a huge hill that is some four hundred meters in height, so be prepared for some serious walking. For the less ambitious, you may walk around its edges and have just as much fun, without getting tired or sweaty.

Ljubljana – Tivoli Park

We went on a Sunday, so it was pretty busy with native Ljubljanians and Sloveniens enjoying the cafes and park facilities.

Graffiti Block

Ljubljana – Graffiti Block

Graffiti Block, also known as the Metelkova Art Museum, is about a block housing a collection of graffiti and alternative art works for public viewing. Since, “A picture is worth a thousand words“, I will let my photographs speak for themselves.

Restaurants

Foculus Restaurant

Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant

Apparently a trendy little pizzeria on the edge of the city not far from the park, but far enough from the center and river so that it is not much affected by all the crowds. We stopped for lunch and something light, so we both ordered salads, which were very good. The prices were very reasonable too!

Epilog

Well that was our trip to Slovenia. I admitted to my wife many times that I didn’t expect much, but was very  pleasantly surprised. If you ever get a chance to go, please do so. The people in the city are very nice and almost all speak English very well, so don’t let your lack of language skills deter you, go!

Ljubljana – Mini Dragon – Try and find them all

Some remaining photographs of this great city, enjoy…

Dijon, France – City Of Mustard

Dijon’s claim to fame is the invention of its namesake mustard. Created in 1856 by one of its residence when he substituted the acidic juice of unripe grapes to his mustard mixture, instead of the customary vinegar. It has spawned many varieties and has a world renowned reputation for one of the best mustard types.

Maille Mustard – One Of Many Famous Dijon Mustard Types

Dijon was actually a second thought, a chance detour in our travel itinerary. We had thought that aside from mustard, there was actually nothing of interest or note in this city. I have to say, for the record, we were both pleasantly surprised and would recommend this small city of about 160,000 over some of their more populated cousins we have already seen.

A note, perhaps a generalization, about the French people. They were extremely polite, genial and very attentive to us at all times. We never received any negative feedback when trying to get into restaurant or other venues, in fact they all seemed extremely helpful. However, we did find some of their hotel appliances to be most annoying and counter-intuitive. But as for the French themselves, they appear to be first rate, accommodating and very friendly.

Our Hotel

We stayed at the Grand Hotel Le Cloche, located on Avenue de la 1ère Armée Français, which is eminently close to the train station and the entrance to the old historic part of town.

This hotel has plenty of room and large bathrooms, which are uncommon generally in Europe. Our room had a nice view of the courtyard and small park inside the confines of the hotel.

The Historic Center Of Dijon

From our hotel the center of the old historic part of town was directly through the Arch or Porte Guillaume. The Park Darcy, directly across the avenue from our hotel is the starting point for a city sponsored Owl Trail. For three euros you can purchase a booklet that details and explains more than two dozen points of interest throughout the city.

Some points of interest are rather hidden from the casual observer and required either a keen eye or a brochure, like the one aforementioned, we found it a handy guide.

One such site was the House of Maillard, which contains a most unusual collection of stone figures carved into the wall. It also has a very old wooden staircase and a helical one in a very confined space. This place is reached by a very inconspicuous door which leads to a long, dimly lit hallway made of old wooden timber and stone. Definitely worth a visit.

The owl trail takes you past several noteworthy sights, including many buildings built in what Americans would recognize as Tudor-style or Fachwerk, is typically known as Timber-Framing. The following examples are easily found throughout the city and in some cases demonstrate the age of the buildings and the city itself.

And yet one of the strangest houses seen in Dijon appears below, owing to the flared roofing around several of its dormers.

Odd Building Between Rue Du Temple And Rue Du Chateau

Another characteristic of housing in this area is the roofing. Most of the materials here are reminiscent of the typical ones you would find in France, Germany and Italy. However, some are distinct for this area of Burgundy and are clad in a specific design and pattern specific to this region of France.

Burgundy Roof On The Church Saint Benigne De Dijon

Most of these roofs have a distinctive yellow, green, brown – almost terracotta color and black. The patterns vary a bit, but seem to stick to a central weaved look from below.

Churches

There are again numerous churches in Dijon, all of which have their own interesting history. Obviously one has to have the name of Our Lady, or Notre-Dame, and it is situated on the Place Notre Dame of the main street Rue des Forges.

Notre-Dame de Dijon

Built in the thirteenth century is an excellent example of Burgundian architecture. The facade sports a collection of gargoyles, all of which have a difference appearance and most likely meaning. They must have given the worshipers pause as they entered its archway, especially one can imagine when it was raining and some were spouting water from their mouths.

The front entrance shows enormous amount of wear and can only be attributed to poor quality stone that must have been used in some of its construction, or a deliberate act of destruction or vandalism.

Not actually a church anymore, the Church of Saint Anne of Dijon now houses a museum of sacred art that includes vestments, chalices and other historical religious artifacts.

Restaurants

We ate at a few very good restaurants in Dijon, one of which was an amazing learning experience, the other noted for its exceptional taste based on years of expectations (that is, french cooking and their meat).

L’Aspérule

A fine dining establishment run by a renowned chef Keigo Kimura and only opened in 2019, this restaurants has all anyone would want to eat. I would consider it a French-Asian Fusion restaurant, where the owner takes Asian liberties with known French classics, the results of which are astounding. We are not food critics, but all we could say when we left this restaurant was, WOW!

L’Aspérule – Chicken Appetizer with a Gevrey-Chambertin 2015

As expected with most fine establishments, seating was limited and inside, so it is necessary to get a reservation. We found ourselves lucky, in that they had one seating left the evening when we visited, so we jumped at the chance.

The menu promised either a flight off six or seven courses, starting with an appetizer and working our way up to two different ways to cook Guinea Fowl. The highlight of our meal was both the 2015 Gevry-Chambertin Red Wine and the Ground Guinea Fowl with Whipped Potatoes in Foie Gras Butter served in a cup. It gives me Guinea Fowl bumps just thinking about it again.

Chez Léon

Chez Léon offered a more relaxed atmosphere outside, during a rather warm evening. We were lucky to enjoy a breeze now and again and luckily the lack of any smokers nearby.

The food at this restaurant was traditional Burgundian which we had both wanted to sample before we left the area. Our chef did not disappoint, the menu was full of the expected entrees and some with which we were not yet familiar. I ordered a half-liter of the Givry Red Wine when we placed our orders for the Beef Bourgogne that was one the menu. I upped the ante a bit but ordering an appetizer that used the same sauce as our main entree, but also contained two soft boiled eggs, a specialty they call Oeufs de Poul Bio en Meurette, Recette Traditionnelle.

In Conclusion

Visiting Dijon was a real treat, one we had not expected. Given its many appealing qualities, especially its food, we would recommend it to anyone.

Grand Hotel Le Cloche At Night