If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
This area includes the Moorish Castle of São Jorge and a number of the overlooks that the area enjoys. Of course, there is also Lisbon Cathedral, which actually looks like it might have been destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake and rebuilt afterwards, but the cathedral and area were largely spared from any damage due to that quake.
Lisbon Cathedral – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal
Perhaps contrary to popular belief, Lisbon and Porto are very busy ALL YEAR. It appears that since RyanAir has a HUB in Porto, everyone and his cousin comes to the area for at least the weekend and many for the entire week. This not doubt puts real stress on Porto, which I can not imagine during the summer when it is really hot and full of tourists.
Lisbon on the other hand is a larger city and can handle more people, however, it has the double wamy of having cruise ships dock as well. So expect the lower parts of Lisbon to be always crowded.
Some walk from the Chiado part of town, where our hotel was located, and across the promenade of R. Augusta, is a totally different part of the city, Alfama. Here you can find the Santa Apolónia train station; in fact, check any train ticket you have that travels to Porto or beyond, and you might notice that it might not be necessary to go all the way to Oriente train station, some of those trains actually start in Santa Apolónia.
Tagus River to the Ocean – Lisbon, Portugal
If you walk the area it is quite steep, so be prepared, or for those less inclined to walk and climb, take an alternate mode of transportation like the 12E Tram, a Tuk-Tuk or the bus.
Overlook of Gra̤a РLisbon, Portugal
Church of Our Lady of Grace
The Church of Our Lady of Grace stands on top of one of the hills on this side of the city. It has a beautiful ceiling in the nave, but the altar is rather plain and typical among other churches we have seen.
Church of our Lady of Grace – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of our Lady of Grace – Nave – Lisbon, Portugal
Adjacent to the church is the Convent of Grace, which is temporarily being used as a modern art museum. However, it is nice just to drop in and see the fascinating Portuguese tiling that adorns the walls.
Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of São Jorge
The Castle of São Jorge is a large Moorish castle with a commanding view of the overall area of Lisbon. It has a surrounding wall with a central castle and a number of amenities, including a cafe and a restaurant.
Castle Gate and Wall – Lisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РTagus River РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РTagus River and Bridge of the 25th of April РLisbon, Portugal
Though you can purchase tickets at the gate, we found the entire staff appeared to be very confused and we got numerous conflicting stories as to what was available, when and where we had to queue in line. We decided to purchase our tickets online, this was actually quicker and more convienent. However, we still had to stand in a line for about an hour, and it isn’t even tourist season, so bring your patience.
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РLisbon Overlook Area РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РPoints of Interest in Tile РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РOld Bronze Cannon РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РPeacocks РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РEntrance to Castle proper РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle, Ramparts РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Castle of Ṣo Jorge РInterior of Castle РLisbon, Portugal
Church of Saint Vincent de Fora
The Church of Saint Vincent de Fora is actually pretty far from everything else, but still walkable. From the Church of Grace and some of the observations points, it can be easily seen in the distance, usually with the National Pantheon dome looming in the frame.
Church of St. Vincent de Fora – Dome of the National Pantheon – Lisbon, Portugal
The interior is actually quite spartan and perhaps not worth the effort. However, for a fee you can enter other portions of the grounds like the sacristy, which is known to be far more opulent than the church itself. Having been in so many churches in the past few months, we decided to save our money and continue our travels.
Saint Vincent de Fora – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal
Saint Vincent de Fora – Nave and Interior – Lisbon, Portugal
Noted in history as the port from which Vasco da Gama departed for his adventures to India, this port town’s most noticeable attribute is it tower. But there is also the monastery, its cloister and the church, all of which represent fabulous examples of the late Gothic Portuguese Manueline style of architecture.
Monastery Square – Lisbon, Portugal
Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem
When you exit the tram the first thing you notice is the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem across the street. Then the Jerónimos Monastery comes into view, as an extension to these architectural marvels.
Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal
Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal
After we visited the Church of St. Vincent we stopped at a small restaurant along the way back called Rendez Vous. They have sort of an eclectic menu which probably does not appeal to everyone, but we found the food and wine very good and would commend the place to anyone looking for something a little different.
Rendez Vour Restaurant – Tuna Salad – Lisbon, Portugal
Rendez Vour Restaurant – Greek Salad, Bread and Fries with Olive Oil and Oregano – Lisbon, Portugal
With optimism in the weather and a plan for a good day, we headed to Sintra, Portugal, in the hopes of seeing the Moorish Castle or the National Palace of Pena. Unfortunately, shortly after we arrived our hopes were dashed after we learned the weather had trashed the place and everything in the park was more or less closed due to too many fallen trees, so a missed outing.
Park – Sintra, Portugal
How To Get There
By metro it takes about forty-five minutes, leaving Lisbon’s Rossio metro station, a number of blocks from our hotel uphill, to Sintra station about a dozen stops away. This metro line is very busy, so be prepared.
Tickets For Two – Sintra, Portugal
Rossio Station – Platform – Lisbon, Portugal
Train Station – Sintra, Portugal
The Town
Is chaotically laid out and has many narrow passageways and alleys. As with most of Portugal, you get the feeling you must always climb up or down, so be prepared for a lot of steps.
Old Buildings – Sintra, Portugal
Municipal Building – Sintra, Portugal
Quinta da Regaleira
The Quinta da Regaleira was another issue. Though we wanted to visit the property, it only has reservations and time slots. Aside from that, the line was so long, since everyone was looking for alternatives due to the closures, that it was quickly out of available times. So we took some photographs and turned around.
Quinta da Regaleira Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Quinta da Regaleira Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace
Having failed to come on a day when the majority of the park was open, we settled on the Biester Palace, so that the day and trip was not a total loss.
Biester Palace – Map – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Stairs to Palace – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Front – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Back Entrance – Sintra, Portugal
Not technically a palace, the residence that is called Biester Palace stands prominently and views from the grounds are very nice. The grounds are quiet enough and there is a cafe where one can enjoy a hot or cold drink while enjoying the beautiful flora.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
The house itself is decorated with wood, a majority of its finish and main rooms are adorned with something similar, if not, oak. One comes away with the house having an almost Spartan interior and the chapel appears to be the most adorned room in the house.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Chapel – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Bathroom – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Scullery – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
There is an elevator, though it was never electrified and gives the appearance that it was only used when company was present, or for other civil tasks.
Biester Palace – Elevator Hand Mechanism – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Elevator – Sintra, Portugal
The Ninth Gate
One claim to fame this house has that might appeal to some, it was one of the locations where Roman Polanski shot the film The Ninth Gate. It was during Dean Corso’s travels to visit Victor Fargas that the house and fountain are involved in the movie.
Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal
Biester Palace – Ninth Gate Book Prop and Postcards – Sintra, Portugal
Restaurants
In Sintra there are plenty of restaurants and cafes, so you shouldn’t have a difficult time to find a place to eat.
Fatto da Claudio Coelho
A nice place for lunch, service Italian food and other specialties. We each shared the bruschetta and a pasta special, so something simple and somewhat light.
Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Entrance – Sintra, Portugal
Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Patti Waiting For Lunch – Sintra, Portugal
Our first day consisted mostly of getting to know Lisbon a bit and visiting the main piazza, walking the main avenue and visiting the park. The weather could not have been better and we enjoyed blue skies and mild temperatures for our outing.
Caldeirinha Dock – Lisbon, Portugal
The City
Since our hotel was located in Chiado, the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus was not far away. First we visited a few monuments along the riverfront and some artwork, then we headed for the Piazza of Commerce.
Typical Street – Lisbon, Portugal
Pink Street – Lisbon, Portugal
Duke of Terceira – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue Rua Augusta – Lisbon, Portugal
Park Of Europe
The city is actually pretty nice and very clean, the city appears to make a concerted effort to maintain the streets and cleaning activities can be seen all around. A few blocks below our hotel was the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus, a gorgeous waterfront walk that takes you to the piazza. On a clear day, it is crowded by tourists and weekenders walking leisurely toward their unknown destinations.
Tagus River Inlet – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue Ribeira das Naus – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue Ribeira das Naus – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue Ribeira das Naus – Lisbon, Portugal
Piazza of Commerce
The first really large attraction to see in the city is the piazza, which proudly displays the Gate of Rua Augusta as one of its entry points.
Plaza of Commerce – Arch of Rua Augusta – Lisbon, Portugal
Plaza of Commerce – Arch of Rua Augusta – Lisbon, Portugal
To get there we walked the Avenue of Liberation, a long and beautiful walk covered by sampietrini (small cobblestone) and dotted by fountains. It is flanked by high-end stores and dealerships and a shoppers paradise no doubt.
Rossio Plaza – Fountain of Anjinhos – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – Fountain – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – Trees in bloom – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – Fountain – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – WWI Monument – Lisbon, Portugal
Avenue of Liberty – Marques De Pombal – Lisbon, Portugal
Park Of Eduardo VII
It is a rather large park that rises up out of the bowl that is Lisbon is the Park of Eduardo VII, named after a king of the United Kingdom.
Park of Eduardo VII – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Carlos Lopes Pavillion – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Monument of the 25th of April aka “Pirilau” – Lisbon, Portugal
Park of Eduardo VII – Lisbon, Portugal
Throughout the city you will find many different modes of transportation. The most ubiquitous form would be the Tuk-Tuk trucks that are all over the main tourist spots. When you venture further out, you will have to look for more mundane forms, like the streetcar or tram, which we have in Turin and find eminently fitted for the job. There are also numerous cable cars sprinkled throughout the city, where the hills dictate a hardy form of transport.
PrÃncipe Real – Old Tram Line and Stop – Lisbon, Portugal
Calçada da Glória – Old Cable Car – Lisbon, Portugal
Restaurants
Though we have sampled the Portuguese cuisine, we found that there is only so much of it one can eat; so we quickly revert back to the food we love.
La Trattoria
La Trattoria is an Italian restaurant in the San Antonio district of central Lisbon. It is not easy to find and we found ourselves to be practically the only tourists there, the rest were business people who come to enjoy the buffet. It is a contemporary Italian restaurant that offers many staple Italian dishes, as well as the buffet for a fixed price. The food is very good and priced a little higher than you will find in other areas.
La Trattoria Restaurant – Inside – Lisbon, Portugal
La Trattoria Restaurant – Inside – Lisbon, Portugal
La Trattoria Restaurant – Calzone – Lisbon, Portugal
La Trattoria Restaurant – Margherita Pizza – Lisbon, Portugal
After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
São Bento Train Station
The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira
A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РCube Fountain РPorto, Portugal
LuÃs I Bridge
Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the LuÃs I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РLuis I Bridge РPorto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge РView of Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РLuis I Bridge РPorto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia
On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.
Vila Nova de Gaia РPra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Churches
Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.
Church Of Saint Anthony
A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.
Church of Saint Anthony – Outside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church
Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.
Tickets For Two – Carmo Church – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal
The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.
Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Organ – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
The Hidden House
Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
The Museum
The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.
Casa Deolinda
A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РRestaurant Deolinda РPorto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal
The weather too, did not disappoint.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe
Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Making Pastries – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
Popina Restaurant
On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.
Wanting to visit Porto, after hearing such good things about the city from family and friends, we decided to book a trip during the off season, March in fact. Our Tickets For Two were of course electronic, so no photographs of them, sorry.
Getting There
From Turin there are two direct flights twice weekly to Porto, Portugal with RyanAir, which is also a designated hub of this carrier. Two weeks ago we booked our stays and flights, well knowing the weather during this time of year is very undependable, it did not disappoint.
Turin Airport – Gate 20, Bound for Porto – Porto, Portugal
Turin Airport – The Nose Of Our Plane – Porto, Portugal
The flight was a little over two hours and left in the evening, in fact all the flights on Mondays and Fridays between these two cities are evening flights. We left around 6:30PM and arrived a little after 9:00PM, but it is actually 8:00PM local time, since you gain an hour.
RyanAir Flight – Coming Into The City – Porto, Portugal
Our arrival was bumpy and wet, so after we arrived, Patti and I decided to take a taxi instead of the metro. It was a good decision, first it only cost us thirty Euros and second, it was pouring out; so getting door to door service was very helpful.
Carris Hotel Ribiera
The Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto is no doubt a collection of a few building that have been extensively renovated. It is close to the water and midway down the river embankment, so no matter which was you walk there will be a hill.
The accommodations are modern enough, though there are a few oddities and some unpleasant things, for one the bed in the room was very hard. Another unfortunate oversight, the safe provided in the room is not bolted to the wall or closet, so anyone can easily just pick it up with all of your possessions and leave the room; we therefore chose not to use it.
Porto – The City
The city of Porto, or Oporto, may pose difficulties for some. For one it essentially lays on the very steep banks of the River Douro, which has its source deep in central Spain, and therefore is very hilly.
The River Douro – Ribeira Square – Porto, Portugal
Street Car or Tram – Porto, Portugal
The Streets Under Rain – Porto, Portugal
The Streets Under Rain – Porto, Portugal
The city is known for its buildings having tiled facades, as well as many of its famous buildings, like the Sao Bento train station and its churches and cathedral.
Typical Street – Porto, Portugal
Churches and Cathedrals
There are many churches and cathedrals in the city, some are free to enter, others have been repurposed and charge a fee.
Parish Church of St. Nicholas
The Parish Church of Saint Nicholas was the first church we visited. We were stuck by its tiled exterior. The interior has an amazing golden altar with a painting of a scene after the crucifixion.
Parish Church of St. Nicholas – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Parish Church of St. Nicholas – Altar and Inside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Francis
The Church of Saint Francis is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful churches we have been lucky enough to visit. Almost the entire interior is decorated with carved wooden and gilded ornamentation depicting all different scenes from Catholicism.
Church Of Saint Francis – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – A Gilded Wooden Tree With Figures – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
The Church Museum
The museum houses an impressive collection of church artifacts and treasures, it is probably worth the reasonable cost of entry alone.
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room, Old 17th Century Wooden and Iron Strongbox – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Treasury Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Treasury Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Old Tapestry – Porto, Portugal
The Crypt
One of the more extensive crypts we have seen. It also has a peculiar floor that has removable panels, no doubt for easy access to the remains in place in each sarcophagus.
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt Bone House – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral
Ostensibly the Porto Cathedral is crowning jewel of the church in the city, however we did not find it as interesting as St. Francis. There are several self-guided tours to chose from, including the Bishop’s quarters which we decided against. However, the rest of the grounds are interesting, if only for the tile work, or Azulejo, for which the cathedral and most of the city is so keenly known.
Porto Cathedral – Statue of Vimara Peres – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Patti in front of the Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Courtyard – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Portico – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Courtyard – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Right Apse – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Rose Window – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Left Apse – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Left Apse, Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Bronze and Baptismal Font – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Bells – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Main Bell – Porto, Portugal
Clerigos Church
Though we did not go in, there is a fee to enter, we enjoyed the church from the street. It wasn’t really clear from our research that it was particularly known for anything, so we decided to skip this church.
Clerigos Church – Porto, Portugal
Torre Dos Clerigos
Likewise, the clock tower associated with it looks impressive from the street and probably has some interesting points inside, however, again we chose not to indulge on paying for entry, since we had no inclination for climbing the stairs to the top, we had already seen an overview of the city from other vantage points.
Clerigos Church Clock Tower – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
Most restaurants and cafes in Porto are small, actually very small, and you will be lucky to find a place to sit down if you are not lucky or willing to wait. For dinner it is always best to make a reservation, almost all restaurants take and honor them, though some may restrict the amount of time you may keep you table.
Forno Velho
This restaurant is part of the Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto and serves a limited, but very good selection of food from their menu. We ate here because it was late, around 9:30PM and raining outside. Though they do get a premium price for their entrees, the food was very good and well prepared, and we received a fifteen percent discount on our bill.
Hotel Carris Porto-Ribeira, Forno Velho Restaurant – Red Mushroom Rissotto – Porto, Portugal
Hotel Carris Porto-Ribeira, Forno Velho Restaurant – Veal Tataki with apple and peppercorns, potatoes with speck – Porto, Portugal
Rocinha Cafe
On our first morning in Porto we ate at the Rocinha Cafe, which lies around the corner on the same block as our hotel. It offered an English Breakfast for ten Euros each, and we were able to substitute our cappuccinos as our beverage of choice, so our total bill was twenty Euros.
Rocinha Cafe – English Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant
For lunch we ate at A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant. This establishment is obviously owned by an owner of a vineyard or larger farm in the area, since they have a particular brand of wine. Expect good food with a paced, if not slow service, since there is only one server and one cook. Oh, and if they bring out hot sauce that has an eye-dropper in it, it most definitely serious stuff, so administer appropriately on your dish.
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Menu – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Kale and Potato Soup with Wine – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Bifana Portugese Sandwich Traditional – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Bifana Portugese Sandwich Traditional, Hot Sauce in an Eye Dropper – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistro
If you are looking for a small traditional Italian dinner look no further than Incontro Bistro, it is essentially a hole in the wall with a kitchen and seven tables. We sat next to the kitchen and had a wonderful time enjoying the cacophony and smells. The only one thing to point would be they only serve macaroni pasta, no long pasta, so you have to choose from one of those.
Incontro Bistrot – Kitchen – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Caprese for Two – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot РFusilli with Tomatoes and Basil, Penne with Rag̼ РPorto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Panna Cota with Berries – Porto, Portugal
We recently spent two weeks in the Frankfurt area with family. While we were there, we had the good fortune to visit a few new restaurants and a couple of old favorites.
Restaurants In Frankfurt
Lokal Bahnhof
Though we did eat at the Lokal Bahnhof in Frankfurt Süd, Darmstädter Landstraße 14, it was not remarkable enough to take any photographs. A nice enough place to eat for lunch, but aside from a quick bite, nothing special.
Restaurants In Offenbach
Papi Original Italian Ristorante
Located in Offenbach, at Friedrichsring 39, is an excellent place for an evening meal called Papi Original Italian. A favorite of our’s when we are in the area, it had good service and very good food. The menu has very good southern Italian dishes and pizza, so something for everyone.
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Main Entrance – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Pizza – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Spaghetti Bolognese – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Pasta Bolognese – Offenbach, Germany
Restaurants In Dreieich
Since we were staying in Dreieich, most of the restaurants we visited were in this small, quaint little town.
China Restaurant Hong Kong
The China Restaurant Hong Kong is located on Hauptstraße 8 on the main avenue of town. It has laterns outside, so is easily visible from your car as you drive passed it. However, it is also an easy walk from some of the nearby parking locations.
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Gabi at Main Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Inside Decor – Dreieich, Germany
The food is good and they have a good variety on the menu, including Thai and some Vietnamese dishes.
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Mixed Salad, Spring Roll – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Fried Rice with Vegetables – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Pork and Onion over Rice – Dreieich, Germany
Wirsthaus Leopolt
If you are actually looking for German food, look no further than Leopolt’s. They have weekly specials, as well as all the favorites and a variety of other dishes. It is also located in town at Hauptstraße 20.
Wirsthaus Leopolt – Patti and Erick – Dreieich, Germany
On Eisenbahnstraße 38 is the Italian restaurant La Rughetta. A smaller establishment than the others, it has a small, comfortable atmosphere with a family cooking feel. The menu has your typical items on it and the food is very good, though you may have to wait some time before it appears, so bring your patience.
Ristorante La Rughetta – Main Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Rughetta – Inside – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Rughetta – Molinari and Coffee Beans – Dreieich, Germany
La Faggio
A newer, more upscale place to eat, that has the appearance of one of the in-places to go is La Faggio, located closer to the train station at Buchschlager Allee 19. Though the eating area is rather spacious, we had the impression there were not enough servers to adequately attend to everyone in a timely manner; so be prepared to wait longer, even to order.
Ristorante La Faggio – Main Dining Area – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Eggplant Parmigiano – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Filet Mignon – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Spaghetti and Tomatoes with Oil and Garlic – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Bruschetta – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Al Dente da Pino Ristorante
At the other end of town is Al Dente da Pino Ristorante at Dieselstraße 3. Again, an Italian restaurant with a friendly charm and comfortable atmosphere. The food is very good and the service prompt and friendly. Probably one of the better places in town to eat.
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Artwork – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Photographs – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Photographs – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Minestrone – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Caprese Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Pasta Bolognese – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Pork Piccata – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Braised Pork – Dreieich, Germany
Restaurants In Dreieichenhain
A short stone’s throw away from Dreieich is Dreieichenhain, a medieval little touristy like town with a Roman Wall and Clock Tower Gate. We have been here several times and try a different place to eat, each time we visit. On the day of our visit it was for a small brunch.
Old Roman Wall – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Cafe Cult
A small cafe kind of in the middle of town. Modern, friendly and quick, they have something for most everyone. Including very good coffee and other drinks. The desserts look amazing, though we did not try any. The bagels are bread type bagels, not traditional jewish bagels, but sufficient for bagel sandwiches, which were very tasty.
Cafe Cult – Egg with Avocado on a Bagel – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Due to the fact that we came back to Bari for one night, since our return flight leaves out of Bari airport, we thought one last post on other things we had not mentioned in our prior posts might be in order. We booked and stayed again at Murex Bed and Breakfast, and sometimes when you’ve already been in a town or city, that may make all the difference.
Corso Regina Elena – Trani, Italy
We enjoyed our stay in Bari, but felt that if it weren’t for its location to other places that interested us, we probably would have just done a day trip to it. So, I would consider it more a place of convenience than one you can sink your teeth into and really enjoy, like Trani.
Various Other Points Of Interest In The City
Below are some of the other points of interest that can be easy to miss just walking around looking at the next pin on your map. This is one advantage of slow travel, having the time just to meander around and have a proper Stadtbummel. One word of caution, if you plan on taking a walk along the Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza make sure the wind is blowing out to sea. The water surrounded by the Faro Molo Sant’Antonio is a real sewer and stinks.
Via Vittorio Emanuelle – Bari, Italy
Micuzzi building – Bari, Italy
Teatro Margherita – Bari, Italy
Teatro Petruzzelli – Bari, Italy
Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza – A real sewer – Bari, Italy
The main train station in Bari is a must for those taking day trips in and out of the city. It is approximately a fifteen to twenty minute walk from the historic center straight down the main shopping avenue of Via Sparano da Bari. It connects with all forms of TrennItalia trains and some regional trains as well.
Bari Centrale train station – Bari, Italy
Restaurants
Some final thoughts on restaurants in Bari. The below are some of the places we visited when we just didn’t know what to do, the weather was cooperating or we were just looking for something different.
The famous pizza of Naples comes to Bari with Da Michele’s Pizzeria. His classic thin crust and speedy service never disappoints. If you are looking for something in a pinch, don’t have a lot of time, or are just tired of eating Pugliese cuisine, Da Michele’s Pizzeria will have something for you. It is located on the corner of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Benedetto Petrone.
Da Michele Pizzeria – Original Neapolitan Pizza – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria – Margherita Pizza – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria – BaBa pastry – Bari, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Pechino
If you are someone who needs a fix of Chinese food every once in a while like me, then Ristorante Cinese Pechino might suit your needs. It was a five minute walk just inside Murat from our Bed & Breakfast in the historic district.
The food is a bit on the salty side, as I found the Maiale con Cipolle (pork and onions in brown sauce). However, the Wonton Soup was very good as were the Involtini Primavera.
What follows are some final thoughts on our stay in Lecce. Though we found the city intriguing, having an interesting history, some good food and enough sights to see to keep you busy, we don’t feel comfortable commending it for more than a few days at best. For the most part, the Città Vecchia is very quiet and doesn’t open until after noon. Even with the myriad number of churches, there are practically no other monuments, fountains or public places to enjoy. Other than that, there are not many connecting little towns in the area to plan day trips around.
Museums
To wrap up our visit to Lecce, we still had one museum left on our church ticket to see, as well as the private museum of Museo Faggiano. So on Monday we planned visiting them, eating lunch and then having a light afternoon.
Museo Faggiano
A private museum, the Museo Faggiano is located on Via Ascanio Grandi, 56/58, not far from our Bed and Breakfast. The host has a written tour guide in most European languages and everything is numbered, so it is not a difficult self-guided tour.
Museo Faggiano – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Tickets For Two – Lecce, Italy
The museum was created by mistake in 2001 when Luciano Faggiano and his sons were digging to fix a plumbing issue. What they found made front page news, even in the United States. While digging out certain areas they discovered artifacts and burial places and had to stop and inform the proper authorities.
Museo Faggiano – NYT Article on archaeological discovery – Lecce, Italy
Luckily, with the proper guidance and help, they were able to turn it into the museum you see today, thanks to the efforts of the Archaeological Superintendence of Taranto and the Idume Cultural Association. The archaeological collection has artifacts starting in the fifth century BCE and spans the Roman, Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
Museo Faggiano – Old Water Drain System for Cistern – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Dug as an Escape Tunnel – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Tank and Cistern Pulley – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Entrance Sign – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Old 17th Century Tile and other artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Very Cramped – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – 11th century Grain Silo – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Cistern and Well – Lecce, Italy
From the eleventh until the thirteenth century the place was a Templar house and used for purposes of their cause. After that, it was converted into a convent in the early seventeenth century for the Franciscan Nuns of Saint Claire.
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
There are places along the tour, especially when descending where the well is and a few other spots, where it is rather cramped and the stairwell a bit claustrophobic, so take care.
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Another Escape Route – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Other Holes and Routes – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Escape route probably connected with Sant’Oronzo Square – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Patti in Underground Room with Firepit – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – An Escape Passage and old foundation hole – Lecce, Italy
There is an overlook observatory, but frankly there is not much to see from that perch. It was probably used by the Templars as a lookout or alternative escape route since it appears to be attached to many of the surrounding roofs in the area.
Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy
Story Of The Five Cavers
Apparently another archaeological dig is also documented in one of the rooms in the museum. It has to do with five cavers who discovered neolithic archaeological artifacts, handprints and pictograms in caves where they were spelunking around Otranto, Italy.
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room, La Grotta dei Cervi – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Handprint Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Deer Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Burial Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Stalagmite Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
The Museo Sigismondo Castromediano is a large and modern museum south of the old city on Viale Gallipoli. It houses ancient archaeological artifacts which are arranged in special themes.
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Land Theme – Ancient Neolithic Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Stones – Lecce, Italy
Churches
We were told there was an interesting church to see in the new section of the city, so we headed over there to see both it and the water fountain not far from it.
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio
The Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio, or Sanctuary of Saint Anthony in Fulgenzio is located the newer part of Lecce. It is worth a visit because of the beautiful frescos that adorn its ceilings.
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Exterior Facade and Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar and Apse from Nave – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar, Crossing and Apse – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Left Transept – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Right Transept – Lecce, Italy
Restaurants
There are a few more restaurants that we visited while in Lecce. Of note are the ones below and of singular distinction is the Chinese Restaurant which we both found a surprise, not only for the extensive menu, but also for the quality of its foods.
Gusto Liberrima
It can be difficult on the weekends, especially Sunday, to find a place to eat that you do not need reservations. Gusto Liberrima located on Corte dei Cicala, 12, appears to be large enough to accommodate more people and might have openings when others do not. We met our new found friends Roland and Amanda at another place we tried to get into, only to be denied and then we tried Gusto Liberrima.
It has Cucina Tipica for the Puglia and other items on the menu, so one should be able to find something to their taste. Roland ordered the Finocchio Arrosto which we tried and it was amazing. It was roasted fennel with parmesan cream, pistachio and almonds crumbled with fresh truffle, very tasty.
Patti and I both had the Velutata di Zucca or the pumpkin soup with gorgonzola, rosemary oil, basil cream, croutons, it was delicious. Patti ordered the Insalata Mediterranea which is made with rocket, carrots, tuna fillet, leccine olives, chicory, friscous, mustard mayonnaise, caramelized red onion and I ordered the Sagne Ritorte, which is just homemade pasta in a ragù, along with an Insalata Mista.
Ristorante Gusto Liberrima – Vellutata di Zucca – Lecce, Italy
Along the Viale dell’Università is the Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du. This restaurant has a modern interior and a lengthy menu offering items perhaps not very common. So if you looking for a change of cuisine from the usual Tipica Cucina, then this place may be the answer. Unfortunately at the time of this writing I could not find a website for them.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Placemat – Lecce, Italy
The Noodle and Vegetable Soup is very good and can be highly recommended. Other dishes, including the Vegetable Rice Saltate and Cabbage with garlic and oil are also excellent choices.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Noodle Soup and Vegetable Fried Rice with Shrimp – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions, Vegetable Fried Rice – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Pollo Piccante – Chopped Chicken with Red Pepper, Ginger, Onion and Black Pepper – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Chinese Cabbage in Garlic and Oil – Lecce, Italy
For our second time around we ordered the same soup and rice but changed our main dishes to Eggplant with Chopped Meat and Scallions, and Sweet and Sour Pork with Green Peppers.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Eggplant, Chopped Meat and Scallions – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Sweet and Sour Port with Green Peppers, Pineapple in Duck Sauce, White Rice and Fried Rice with Vegetables – Lecce, Italy
The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.
Getting There
From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.
Lecce Train Station – Lecce, Italy
The City
Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.
Typical city street – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Narrow carless streets – Lecce, Italy
Old Roman columned wall – Lecce, Italy
The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.
Palazzo Lecciso – Lecce, Italy
Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Di Giustizia – Lecce, Italy
Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles
There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.
Porta di Napoli – Front – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.
Porta San Biagio – Lecce, Italy
The Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.
Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy
War Memorial – Lecce, Italy
In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.
Column of Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy
Roman Ruins
Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Where We Stayed
For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque
We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entryway and Portico – Lecce, Italy
Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy
The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.
This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy
I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine And Lounge
We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Patti outside waiting for soup – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy
While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo
The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.
Tranquillo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Menu – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.
Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy
