There is no trip to Klagenfurt am Wörthersee worth its while, without visiting its namesake, the Wörthersee. A short twelve minute ride on the S1 train to Pörtschach am Wörthersee, will put you directly in the middle of the lake. We thought it a great place to take a day trip.
Pörtschach am Wörthersee
Our plan was to take the train from Klagenfurt Hbf, see the town, walk around the lake a bit, enjoy a nice lunch and then take a boat ride back to Klagenfurt. The weather was beautiful and everything went according to plan. Well almost, we actually stretched it out a bit, since the weather was so nice.
Pörtschach am Wörthersee
This little town is perhaps the main spot along the entire lake. Though we did not go to Velden, it had the look and feel of a long established tourist town for local Austrians. This appears to be their place to come, relax, play, eat and generally have fun. Here is a quick slideshow of the views along the lake.
There is also a waterpark on the Spitz, that requires a fee to enter, but provides everything from sunbathing and waterslides into the lake, to picnicing for the day on the small island.
The town is some three hundred meters or so from the actual lake, but gives you the impression that it is a laid back tourist town. There are many amenities and stores for tourists to shop in, including bike rentals, hiking and trekking gear, etc.
Pörtschach Main Steet
Pörtschach Main Street
Pörtschach – Petrified Tree
Pörtschach – Petrified Tree
Pörtschach Church
Pörtschach Beautiful Resorts
The Lake Boat Ride
There is a boat, in fact I think there are several, the travels up and down the lake carrying passengers from one small town to the next. It runs every hour or so and takes over an hour to complete the full length of the lake itself. It is another nice way to take short trips all along the lake, or just a nice gentle boat ride to see the lake for itself.
Well that’s just about it for Pörtschach and the Wörthersee. We have a great day seeing it and enjoying a nice lunch along the water. The weather was just gorgeous. Here are a few video clips while we were on the boat.
On to other places of interest, next stop, Salzburg.
Gruss Gott! This is the customary greeting when you visit Austria. Though many speak English here, they will still use this greeting upon meeting you. So, become an Austrian for a day and smile and say it back, it’s easy.
Nestled in the heart of Carinthia is its capitol, Klagenfurt am Wörthersee. Though at first a bit abstract and hard to get a feel for it, after a few days stay and talking to the people in their own language, we have actually become very comfortable with this happy little city. It is quite open at the moment showing little affects of the pandemic, though one can see the occasional store closed (though it might not be related.)
The Capitol’s Main Sights
There are of course several sites here to see, some religious, some governmental and others historic. The best way to show this is a quick slide show, since there really is no better way to cover so much succintly.
Landhaus
Gutenberg House
Memorial – Bernhard von Spanheim
Lindwurmbrunnen
Maria Theresa Statue
Heiligenkirche
Innerestadt Klagenfurt
Innerestadt Klagenfurt
Innerestadt Klagenfurt
Bishop’s Residence
Bishop’s Residence
Bishop’s Residence
Family Wappen On Street
Heiligenkirche
Klagenfurt
Lindwurmbrunnen
An interesting Brunnen, or fountain, is the Lindwurnbrunnen in Neuer Platz. This fountain is actually central to the fable or history of the creation of Klagenfurt.
Lindwurmbrunnen
Fable Inscription
The inscription tells some of the tale in a very abbreviated form. The actual fable or story unfolded more like the following.
A Lindwurm once lived in the swamp around Klagenfurt. The river that flows through the city often flooded. This threatened travelers and city dwellers and a Dragon was thought to be the cause of these floods. It was actually a Lindworm. The Duke offered a reward for which some men tied a bull to a chain and offered it to the Lindwurm. When it took the bate, it was hooked and then swiftly killed.
Wörtherseemandl
The Wörtherseemandl is a small tourist attraction close to the sister city pavement marker. I do not think there is much meaning behind it, other than a piece of art that someone created for the city.
Restaurants
We visited only two restaurants while in the city proper, one was Italian, which will not be covered since it is not Austrian. Though if you are ever in the city and looking for Italian food there are several restaurants around.
Haus am Markt
The HAM, or the Haus am Markt restaurant is typical Austrian, or more precisely Carinthian food.
Haus am Markt
Haus am Markt – Ummm Bier
Haus am Markt – Hühnersuppa mit Fadenknödeln
Haus am Markt – Wiener Schnitzel and Fries with Currant Sauce
A small clip of the Oom-pa Two Person band we enjoyed while eating, how Austrian!
We go next to the actual Wörthersee for a special day and boat trip on the lake. So stay tuned! Auf Wiedersehen!
This last part, includes some of the additional things we were able to enjoy while in Venice, especially good places to dine. We found it takes about a week to get a really good feel for Venice. We also think it’s especially true that you have not really seen Venice until you have visited the other islands, as well as other out-of-the-way places around Venice proper.
Other Interesting Sights
For those that love architecture you will want to see the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, Corte Contarina in San Marco. A bit of a challeng to find, but when you get close enough, there are signs pointing the way. They of course use Scala not Palazzo, for stairs, so do not let that confuse you!
Sign to Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, del Bovolo
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, del Bovolo, Corte Contarina
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, del Bovolo, Corte Contarina
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, del Bovolo, Corte Contarina
Another great sight is the tiniest alleyway in Venice. Called Calle Varisco, or sometimes Calletta Varisco (incorrectly mind you). It is a fairly narrow passage that goes nowhere, or more precisely, a canal of all things. But there are others in and around Venice, that are likewise very narrow, for example the Callede la Raffineria.
Calletta Varisco
Calle de la Raffineria
Calle de la Raffineria
There are also several impressive 24-hour clocks that are in and around Venice. Though not terribly easy to find, with some research and a flexible itinerary, they make wonderful sights to see.
Restaurants
We ate at many good and one fine restaurants while in Venice, here is our take on each.
Bistrot de Venise
Probably some of the finest dining in Venice, the Bistrot de Venise has a menu and winelist that rate high on our list. A bit pricey, but if you can afford it and go with the flow, that is, let them do their job, you will not be disappointed.
Bistrot de Venise
Bistrot de Venise – Erick
Bistrot de Venise – Patti
Bistrot de Venise – Patti’s Umbrine
Bistrot de Venise – Erick’s Duck
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia
Another jewel in the crown of Venice is the Ristorante Antica Sacrestia. Rather humble from the outside, the inside is a nice little courtyard with stone, well shaded from the midday sun. Perfect for the lunchtime replenishment.
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia Wine Label
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia Courtyard
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia Courtyard With Awards
Osteria la Zucca
Osteria la Zucca con Cucina is a very nice place for true Venetian cuisine. If you are looking for some home-cooked Italian food, this is you place. I can speak from experience, the Mousakka is great, as is the house wine.
Osteria la Zucca
Osteria la Zucca – Patti Waiting For Lunch
Osteria la Zucca – My Mousakka
Osteria la Zucca
Ristorante Rosa Rossa
Ristorante Rosa Rossa on Calle de la Mandola, is a restaurant and pizzeria and is great for families, small gatherings and couples, with plenty of outside seating. Their pizza is delicious and large enough for two to share, when accompanied with salad and drinks.
Ristorante Rosa Rossa – Inside
Ristorante Rosa Rossa – Erick
Cicchetti Arciccchetti Bakaro
Last but not least, if you are in Venice, you have to visit a cicchetti. While walking around, you might see signs about cicchetti this and cicchetti that, but it’s usually simple street food served at a bar. Normally, there is a selection which you may pick and choose from, along with assorted drinks that can be ordered at the same. We stopped here while just out for a long walk. The Deli bites were one for a Euro and drinks were as usual, pretty inexpensive.
Cicchetti Arciccchetti Bakaro
Cicchetti Arciccchetti Bakaro – Drinks And Deli Food
Conclusion
As opposed to our last whirlwind tour of Venice, this trip was a totally different and a more enjoyable experience. Not only the lack of tourists has helped my own opinion of Venice, but also the Summer heat has cooperated and our length of stay was what we would call minimal (one week). There is plenty to see for sure. If the factors are conducive and you are able to spend more than a week, I would, just to get a better overall feel for Venice. However, the amount of tourism they let come back, will dictate whether or not Venice will feel like a place you would want to stay longer than a week. That remains to be seen.
Our next stop takes us to Austria, so stay tuned for our adventures and insights there; until then, Ciao!
Arriving over the weekend with the expectation of finding few, if any tourist in Venice, we were pleasantly surprised. Apparently, we have beaten the rush to see some remarkable tourist spots, without all the international hords.
Venice Train Station – Platforms Empty
Hotel NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci
We chose this four star hotel for its location to the Grand Canal and a pier for the Vaporettos, or ferries, that connect all of the islands together. We were not disappointed, it definitely has all the access we were looking for along with other comforts, amenities and conveniences we wanted, plus it’s very quiet.
NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci
Patti enjoying the evening
Our balcony
Our balcony
Piazza San Marco
Usually abuzz with activity, this square or piazza is usually crowded during this time of year, with countless tourists. We have been fortunate to be here at this time, while the rest of the world struggles with how to cope with their outbreaks.
The view from the end of the island, just down from Santa Maria, is amazing.
Panoramic View of Part of the Grand Canal and Piazza San Marco
Caffè Florian
Established in 1720, Cafe Florian is arguably the oldest cafe in the world. It was amazing to sit and enjoy a drink in an establishment, that frankly is older than my own country.
Patti in Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian’s ceilings and walls
Erick in Caffè Florian
Pastor Saverio Le Forcole
The old art of carving and developing individual forcole for Venetian gondola rowers goes way back and is passed down from master to apprentice after a lengthy teaching process. Pastor Saverio is one of four masters still performing his art on the island.
The Store Front
Inside the workshop
Inside the workshop – other items done by other craftsmen
Inside the workshop – other items done by other craftsmen
Forcole – you can purchase them
The Store Front
The waterway by the store
If you are ever in Venice you should look him up. He speaks English and is willing to talk to anyone who has questions about his art and how it is used. You can probably spend hours doing just that, but he does have to work, so keep that in mind.
Okay, enough for now, we are here for the entire week and will probably post more once we get a few moments of down time. Next stops are the other islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello.
As can be imagined, there are many restaurants in Rapallo with many different cuisines, the main ones featuring typical Ligurian dishes. Here is a brief synopsis of some of the restaurants we enjoyed during our stay.
Trattoria Da Dede
The front of this restaurant is nothing actually to look at, but as is often the case in Italy, looks can be deceiving and for our first lunch here it proved to be true.
The Storefront – I know, nothing to look at, right?
The Mom and Pop look and feel
Trattoria Da Dede is an inconspicuous store on a back street called via Santa Benedetto with no real call to fame. They serve everyday, workerman food here, the kind momma cooks for a very good price. While there, we were the only non-local; most of the clientele were on their lunch break. Ordering is easy, select any one of four main dishes the restaurant offers for lunch and wash it down with water and a caffe and you are all done. Eat like a Ligurian, stop here and enjoy the food!
Ristorante Pechino
Pining for something less Italian and more cosmopolitan, it was time for our Chinese food break. Restaurant Pechino on the Lungomare Vittorio Veneto fit the bill nicely. Ordering our usual Spring Rolls, Wonton Soup, Rice with Vegetables, Chicken with Vegetables or whatever else we might see, it was out and served with a smile.
Take Out Or Eat In
The Interior
La Trattoria
Along the via Montebello, sits La Trattoria with an almost invisible store front. In fact, if you weren’t actually looking for it with purpose, like Patti and I, you probably would miss it.
La Trattoria has an amazing menu and the chef apparently to back it up. You will find unusual and eclectic Ligurian tastes here, as well as a very good wine and dessert selection.
Strawberry Torte
Ravioli alla Ragu
Stuffed Pasta in Walnut Sauce
Antipasti – All Sorts
La Boccia Ristorante
An enoteca (wine bar) and restaurant, La Boccia Tuscany Wine & Food provides ample sustinence with an amazing wine list. Located on via Venezia, you can select any wine for under 25€, have the bottle uncorked and taste the wine, while only paying by the glass. The fare, as I have already suggested is rather ordinary, but the wines and aperitivi are first rate. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed every tasty minute.
Simple Salumi Panini with Wine
V54 Sambuca – Just a bit special
Patti, our official Sambuca Connoisseur and Taster – V54 is good!
Of course we ate at other places, but none of those felt as exceptional as the ones above. If you are ever in Rapallo, we hope you will take the opportunity to visit one. Until then, ciao for now..!
The tiny seaside city of Rapallo is remarkable in many ways, as a port, as a main stop on the Pisa to Genova train line, as a city that has many ancient Roman, Etruscan and other historical features, and as a tourist point of interest; where one can just relax and enjoy the sun while eating great Ligurian food.
The Hotel Astoria Rapallo
The Hotel Astoria Rapallo – 1903
We began our stay checking into the four star Hotel Astoria Rapallo along via Antonio Gramsci. Built in 1903 in the Victorian Liberty Villa style, it is well taken care of by its current owner and management couple, who cheerfully greeted us as we entered. The views from our seaside room were what we imagined, as were the cooling breezes that ran through the room when we open all the windows, clean and refreshing. Even though they come equipped with air-conditioning, it is always nice to open the windows to get fresh air, especially in the early morning.
Rapallo is an active port for fishing, leisure and travel (via ferry or other means to destinations along the coast.) Unfortunately, while we were here, the ferries were still not running, due to the restrictions in place on account of the virus. So, we were not able to visit Portofino as we had hoped.
The Historic Center
As with all older cities of any size, Rapallo has a historic center, albeit small, which one can wander through to shop or to catch a meal.
The only remaining gate of the ancient city walls is the Port of Salt, or Porta della Saline.
Porta della Saline
There are of course plenty of narrow and inviting streets in the old town that suck you in with their capillory action.
Hannibals Bridge
Built in the second century, the ancient bridge from the Roman period, called Hannibals Bridge, can still be seen and enjoyed. Though cordoned off to travel, it still is an imposing and impressive sign of the Roman’s architectural and construction abilities.
Hannibals Bridge Span
Hannibals Bridge Garden
Hannibals Bridge with Flowers
Hannibals Bridge Gated
The Castle Of Rapallo
Anyone looking out into the gulf will sooner or later notice the small castle sitting off the coast directly in front of the traffic circle (or roundabout), Piazza Giovanni Battista Pastene. This is the Castello di Rapallo, an old castle built in the 1550s in response to attacks by Turkish pirates. It is still in fairly good shape, but while we where there, temporarily closed due to Covid restrictions and construction in the vicinity.
Castello di Rapallo
Castello di Rapallo
The Brotherhood Of White
A Brotherhood of White, also known as the Great White Brotherhood and the Universal White Brotherhood, has a sect or presence in the city. In a part of the historic center, a structure exists that apparently houses this old eighteenth century order of people of enlightenment. The signs are there, if you are looking for them.
Order Of The White BrotherhoodSign Of The Great White Brotherhood
The Gulf Of Tigullio
The Gulf of Tigullio is very large and extends from Portofino to Zoagli. It is always nice to walk along the Port of Rapallo in the early morning or in the evenings to enjoy the fresh air and beauty of the gulf itself. There are many inlets, bays and coves that one can explore along the way, some with road access, others a bit more difficult.
The Gulf Of Tigullio And The Ligurian Hills
Rapallo To Montallegro
The cable car from Rapallo to Montallegro and back is a treat. Though some might consider it an expensive treat, at 8€ a piece for a round trip; we thought it a fair deal. The views in and of themselves are more than worth the ticket price. There is not only a basilica waiting for you at the top, but also a restaurant with amazing views of the city and surrounding countryside.
Basilica and Sactuary of Our Lady of Montallegro – Inside
Basilica and Sactuary of Our Lady of Montallegro
Sanctuary of Montallegro
Old Millstone
Old Inscription Behind Church
Map of Area
The Paved Path
Casa del Pellegrino
There is a cafe, bar and restaurant some ten or so minutes walk from behind the basilica. It is not only the start of one of the hiking trails that wanders through the area, but also provides an excellent view of the gulf and port of Rapallo. Since the cable car runs every thirty minutes or so, we took advantage and spent an hour here, taking on refreshment and admiring the view while enjoying the cool air coming up the mountain slopes.
The Path to the Restaurant
The Path to the Restaurant
The Restaurant Entrance
Outside Seating With Overlook
The View From Our Table
Another View
Cable Car From Montallegro Back To Rapallo
Here are a few videos of our trip back down the mountain. If you are ever there, a word of caution for those with any fear of heights, you will be suspended very high in the air. It may not be for everyone, unless you maintain your look inside the car on ascent and likewise on the return.
On the beautiful Ligurian coast, about a half an hour train ride from Moneglia, is the rather large town Chiavari. This is a port town with a large number of boats, which it is probably more noted for, than its beaches.
The Lungomare And Its Protective Jetties
If you meander your way to the lungomare from the train station and sit on any one of the many benches the city has provided, you will hear the surf pounding the rocks. After a short while, you will probably wonder if this would be a city at all without the large rocks and jetties that protect it, and you would probably be right. This city directly faces the Ligurian and Mediterranean Seas and takes their full force when they are angry.
A City Of Porticos
Like Turin, this medieval city was built in the 13th century and contains many portico, upon which buildings were erected and the residents below were protected from the elements. It has a population of roughly twenty-five to twenty-eight thousand residents, depending on what figures you trust.
The city also sports a very nice piazza where the daily market is held. We had gotten there just after they had finished for the day and were in the process of cleaning up.
The Market Of Piazza Mazzini
The city is repleat with stores and high-end shops in the historic part, so there is plenty of places to window-shop or even take in the typical afternoon caffe. Here are a few last views of this city that we took along the way while strolling its streets with our guest for the day.
In order to get to Chiavari from Moneglia, a change of trains is in order in Sestri Levante. Though we had a short wait, around twelve minutes, it did not lengthen our trip too much. Therefore, this city currently is part of the Savona to Sestri Levante trainline, which may change in the future if more travel restrictions are lifted, so always go to the TrennItalia website for up to date information.
Pizzeria Il Ciocco
Probably one of the best surprises of the day was the Pizzeria Il Ciocco. After a larger than normal lunch in Chiavari, we were looking for something quick, and on the lighter side. We decided on pizza and found this little place a hundred meters down the street.
The Salumaria
The Four Greats – Expresso, Red Wine, Profiterole And Sambuca
The owner’s son speaks very good English, so we were able to order easily and learn it is a true mom-and-pop shop. Since 1997 they have been making pizza in Moneglia the old fashion way, using the traditional wood fire method and secret recipies. What other way is there to make real pizza in Italy?
Erick Waiting For His Pizza
Patti And The Open Hearth
All I can say is it was fantastic. This place is high on our list to revisit, and I am not even a real pizza fan. I am afraid if my son Dana comes in here he may never leave.
For the curious, and approximately a two kilometer walk from the heart of Moneglia, is the small hamlet or cluster of homes called Lemeglio. This tiny little place provides yet another wonderful, bird’s eye view of the town and coastline below, albeit from the opposite direction as before.
The View Of Moneglia And Its Bay From Lemeglia
Getting There
There are several way to get to Lemeglio from Moneglia, but taking a car or the bus service (which of course is provided because of the locals), would probably not be worth it, since there is so little to see along the way or in Lemeglia. There is very little to no parking and turning around looked like a nightmare to us. We chose to hike, using the well marked trail that the area has provided and made a short morning of it.
Leaving Moneglia
After a quick breakfast, we headed out along the via Vittorio Emanuele going South. Taking a few turns through town here and there and crossing the stream, we left town and quickly found the trailhead.
The Map Of The Trails
The Red Square – Lemeglia
From here the paved path and stairs ascend rapidly, lines on one side with the railroad tracks to start and a fence on the other.
The Start Of Our Climb – A Good View Of The Rail System
The rest of the trip is just a series of the same, stairs interspersed with walking on roadway, until you get up to Lemeglio itself and the overlook it provides.
The Church Steeple From Afar
Moneglia – Another View
Moneglia Bay
The Coastline
Looks Pretty Steep To Me
The Church – Our Destination
Moneglia Bay
Patti Hiking The Trail
Olive Tree Groves Line The Roadways
Moneglia Bay – An Overlook
Chiesa Santa Maria Assunta
The church sits atop this hill surrounded by a small cluster of houses, some well maintained, others less so. It is a church built in the typical style for Liguria, both in shape and use of stone. There is what appears to be a small, abandoned building just to its left that is decorated with a statue of the Holy Mary. If you are tall enough to look inside, you will notice a very old olive press that is falling apart. Perhaps it is where the locals used to come to press their olives each harvest season?
Santa Maria Assunta
Holy Mary – Building With Olive Press
Pavement With Small Stones
Below is the last photograph you can enjoy for this spot, from here the trail ascends even more, into the trees and then over the ridge. It would be the natural route to take if one were headed South and to Cinque Terre.
The Ligurian Sea
The trip down is somewhat faster and less eventfull, but we were happy we took the time to explore above Moneglia once again. If only just to get out and stretch the legs and breathe in fresh air without a mask!
Ristorante Nenne
This small, innocuous little restaurant can be passed by anyone walking on the via Vittorio Emanuele easily without notice, especially if they are not paying attention. Nenne is without a doubt, an actual hole in the wall. And though it has not been in business long, it has a great seafood menu and very good prices.
Patti’s Gnocci With Porchini Mushroom Sauce
The Eclectic Interior
A View From Inside Looking Out
The Eclectic Interior
Erick’s Swordfish – Red Sauce With Olices
Erick’s Spaghetti And Clams – Yes Again!
The Eclectic Interior
So ends yet another day in the small, coastal town of Moneglia. I hope you enjoyed this entry, tomorrow more and our adventure to Chiavari.
Having the benefit of staying in such a small town for a little more than a week, gives one the flexibility of being bored and looking for things to do. Of course I say this from the perspective of retirement and our slow travel mentality, where it’s all about kicking back, taking it easy and having the time to actually get to know a place, instead of driving through it to claim, “I was there!”
The Lungomare Dante Alighieri – Moneglia
The Leisurely Stroll
An often overlooked, under-used method of relaxation, that I might add is rarely used in the States, is the stroll. In fact, the lack of use of this word in the common venacular there, or everyday speech, testifies to the American’s reluctance to actually taking one. Americans are often too busy and too self-absorbed to consider a nice, long, uncomplicated relaxing walk. If you stay long enough in Moneglia, or probably any city or coastal town in Italy, you should take one of these, they can be mind clearing experiences. The Germans have an excellent word for it, schlendern, to stroll or amble and when correctly pronounced, actually sounds relaxing. The Italians however, probably invented it with their passeggiata, which actually means a bit more, but is still actively practiced today.
Our stroll along the Lungomare was relaxing in the extreme. The surf, which was fairly rough at the time, was pounding the coast. Where the beach was lined with stones, one could hear the strange and unusual sound of the rocks clacking against one another as the water washed over them and drew them back toward the sea. Add to that the perfect temperature, somewhere in the low seventies, and a stiff breeze, and you have all the ingredients for a great walk.
The Tower Of Villafranche
Along the Lungomare is the Tower or Fortress of Villafranche, or what is called today the Parco Castello di Villafranca, a broken down remnant of an old fort that is no longer used nor kept up. It has signs that it had been taken cared for until recently. Now it just appears to be a memory destined to fall back into the hillside from which it arose.
Another Look At The Coast
Fortress Remains You Cannot Reach
Patti On The Path To The Park
An Escape When It Rains
The Tower Of The Fort
View From Above Of Jetties
Moneglia And The Church Tower Of Santa Croce
The Jetties That Protect The Beach
The Beautiful Coastline
Looking Back Toward Moneglia
The Coast
The Path Upon Entering
A View From A Remaining Parapet
Interesting Mineral Accumulations
There are still some interesting things inside to see, nooks and crannies, here and there. The outside is more or less a maze of unmaintained stairs and paths. A good place for a relaxing picnic lunch, to read a book or just relax and unwind; there are some benches where one can sit and enjoy the sound of the waves and the horizon.
Ristorante Bistrot Julia
The restaurant Bistrot Julia is a small, unassuming place that is not much on menu, but definitely big on taste. This place, during normal times, would be crowded, so get reservations if you are planning a visit, we just happen to be fortunate enough to enjoy it in a more relaxed state.
Bistrot Julia – Outside
Bistrot Julia – Inside
Patti Having A Good Time
Erick Waiting For Steak
Based on a rating we found to be rather high on the internet, we decided to give it a try. Having not had a very good steak in a while, we were both surprised to find a Tomahawk Steak for two on the menu. It took some discussion with our waitress and all of two seconds to make up my mind what I wanted to order. After a very short negotiation with Patti, our wine and steak were ordered.
Bacalla Appetizer
Our Tomahawk – Cooked And Cut
Chocolate Cake With Raspberry Sauce
Needless to say, when a chef does not give you a choice on how you want your meat cooked and it comes out looking like this, you know you are in for a good meal. Paired with a very good local Nebbiolo, the steak and potatoes went down with very little argument. Our appetizers were Baccala on crushed vinegared olives, also very good. We would both highly recommend a stop at Bistrot Julia, if you are ever in Moneglia. First rate food at a fairly good price. They also will dispense wine from any unopened bottle of wine they have, as long as it’s under 24€. A fine enticement to get you to try new wines not necessarily served by the glass and you only pay for what you drink. With our steak, priced at 6€/hg (hectogram), and coming in around one kilo we walked out with a 97€ bill. Some might say that a bit steep, but I have paid far more in the States for steak and dinners for two as a whole and they were no where near as good. Enjoy!
We have a saying in our country, though no longer often heeded by some of our leaders, of taking the high path or road. In the comune of Moneglia you can actually do this, though not figuratively speaking; but by actually lacing up your hiking shoes and climbing the hills that gird this fine town. Not only will you feel better than those that don’t take the high road, you will also have a better view!
XX And -. Our Chosen Paths
Planning And The Initial Ascent
Before any ascent, a quick visit to the local tourist information center should be your first stop. There they can inform you on the best way to enter the maze of paths and hiking trails that criss-cross the hills and country-side above the town; they can also offer you a handy map for your initial planning and your pocket along the way.
Initially Seems Easy Enough
To find the entry point to the Northwest you can more or less follow via Caveri that takes you to the train station, then a short way on via Ammiraglio Bollo. On the left hand side of that road, there will be a concrete staircase that ascends from the sidewalk. A little further walk from there will bring you to the sign shown above. Again, it is best by now to have a very good idea of where you are headed, since not all signs along the way are as clear as the one above. However, the trails are well marked with the indicators assigned to them, so as long as you know where you are headed, you should have no difficulties.
The Dash-Dot And Double-X Routes
Initial Walkways
The initial ascent has some stairs and long, inclined walkways that are fairly easy to navigate. After this, the ascent only gets steeper, though it is all on pavement and semi-improved roadway. It’s not too long before you notice that you are making real progress getting above the town.
A View Of The Bay At The Very Start
Hiking The Cresta Di Comunaglia
After this, you make a quick turn off the pavement and into what looks to most as a gully. It almost looks like something you shouldn’t hike.
Erick On The Steep Roadway
The Streambed Entry
Once the path turns off the roadway it is rather steep and a bit treacherous. Though you could use sneakers, hiking shoes are strongly advised. The path when it starts out is essentially a stream bed that probably gets full rather quickly during heavy thunderstorms and downpours.
Trail Marker
Patti On The Path
After some time, and about two to three hundred meters of elevation, the path levels out somewhat. It is still important to pay close attention, there are many hazards, loose rocks and roots along the path.
Overlook of Moneglia
Overlook of Moneglia Bay
Hiking Path Signs
The Old Hiking Path Signs
Ligurian Sea
Ligurian Sea
Moneglia Bay
Ligurian Sea
Moneglia Bay
Walking along the Crest of Comunaglia is far less difficult than the climb. There are a few areas where you must mind yourself, falling would prove very problematic. However, the views along the crest path are well worth the time and effort. To get to this point, it took us about one hour of good hiking, while drinking plenty of water every fifteen minutes or so. It was in the high seventies and we brought 75cl of water for each us, which was just about enough. I would recommend, if it is in the eighties or ninties, bring MORE, do not dehydrate, there is nothing around for you to get more!
The entire hike took us a little over two hours, up and back. We had to pace ourselves somewhat, since sitting in Turin for three months has not improved our stamina at all. But if you are into hiking there are tons of trails around, you can even trek from one town to the next. Just plan for the weather and bring plenty of water.
Piccolo Hotel Restaurant
The restaurant of the Piccolo hotel is very nice and due to the current restrictions and low attendance here, we were very well served. Good thing too, after a good day hiking, we were both starving.
A Good Vino Rosso – Montalcino – Brizio
Erick’s Spaghetti alla Vongole
Erick’s Cima alla Genovese
Patti’s Polpo Arrosto
Creme Brulee
Caffe and Sambuca
The traditional spaghetti in clam sauce is always a hit with me, served with Piccadilly tomatoes, clams and oil, it is a great starter. I also ordered the Cima alla Genovese, which is made with peas, ceci beans and other vegetables, along with a hard boiled egg, rolled in thinly pounded veal. It must be refrigerated, sliced and served cold. It was not only unusual, but along with slightly vinegared carrots, surprisingly good; a very Genovese dish. Patti had grilled Octopus with a cream made from garbanzo beans (ceci in Italy). I tasted that too and it was amazing. Taking into account the quality of the food and service, a very good restaurant. The end to a great day in Moneglia. Until next time, ciao!
