Tag: eating

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Our Fateful Trip To Greece – Act I

Athens – Superstitious Beginnings

This blog article is split into three separate acts. Not necessarily in homage to the Greek tradition of plays, but more that our trip turned out to be more of a Greek tragedy. A milder version of one of course, but one nonetheless.

We do not know if it’s the land of bad karma, bad juju or what, but for the first time in our long lineage of trips, almost everything that could go wrong did. That is not to say, there is something wrong with Greece as a whole, it could just be us (and probably is), or we just may happened to have had a bad sequence of events occur. However, always being guided by the premise that bad luck runs in threes, we are now beginning to think that is just an arbitrary number, it appears it can also be all sixes and sevens.

To add some preamble here, there were six of us traveling from three different parts of the globe. My wife and I from Italy, Ericka and Gabriel (Gabi) from Germany and our two sons, Dana and Tristan, from the United States.

Flight from Milan Malpensa to Athens

The first sign there would be any trouble was a line of storms that developed the day of travel and stalled along the east coast. Since they were flying into JFK, both of my sons had their flights canceled. They were able to get booked again for the next day, after having wasted their entire Friday sitting in an airport or on an airplane. Luckily, the new logistics worked and they made it to Athens a day late and one vacation day less, but with all of their luggage.

Once altogether, we learned that our son Dana and our son-in-law Gabi had both gotten colds, so right away we were thinking of the possibility of Covid. Luckily, that was not the case either, they were just feeling the effects of common colds brought on by loosening restrictions.

In any event, we pressed on with our vacation. The next day, upon trying to enter a museum, we quickly discovered that I had purchased a five day pass for everyone, which of course did not start until our last full day in Athens. Not sure how I did that, but I just chalked it up to old age and moved on. Luckily, nothing else happened to us the next few day in Athens.

Athens – The City

The modern part of Athens is typical city for a city of central Europe, containing a core with upscale shopping surrounded by environs of more modest means and services. In some places it looks like it is in desperate need of planning and repairs. But for the most part things appear to work quite well by Greek standards.

No visit to Athens complete without seeing the changing of the guard at the National Memorial of the Unknown Soldier.

Lycabettus Hill

Located northeast of the city center is the hill of Lycabettus, atop which sits the Church of Saint George. About a thirty minute walk from the Monument of the Unknown Soldier you can reach the cable car at Lykavittós and for a modest sum, a ride to the top.

Athens Panorama

The views are pretty good from this vantage point, so you will want to pick a clear day. It is a very good place for a panoramic photograph of Athens.

You can also visit the church and then have a relaxing drink at one of the many bars on this hilltop.

The Acropolis

The Acropolis is a historic site with few equals. Perched atop a hill overlooking the rest of Athens, this great structure must have been magnificent in its day. Entering through the Beulé Gate, you ascend the Propylaea with the Temple of Athena Nike to your right.

Temple of Athena Nike

The temple stands to the right of the entrance, almost as a sentinel to this very religious place. Situated to the right of the Propylaea, it is the most fully iconic temple in the Acropolis. Unfortunately what we see today is a reconstruction of what it must have looked like before the Turks destroyed the temple in 1686.

The Parthenon

Under a constant state of preservation, repairs and reconstruction the Parthenon is well signed and for the most part well protected from the tourists. It is an impressive structure, when placed behind the backdrop of history, being built more than 2500 years ago.

There are a few additional points of interest below the Acropolis, but no less important.

The Erechtheion

My favorite is the Erechtheion and the Porch of the Maidens, also know as the Caryatid Porch. It is one of the only, if not few, buildings in the Acropolis that does not have a symmetrical architecture. It is theorized this either had to do with the numerous cults that built the structure, or the uneven ground it was built on, making a classic Greek structure impossible.

From the southeast side the asymmetry is easily seen, with the Porch of the Maidens displaying its most iconic feature.

The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens – Southeast View

The Agora

Not far from the slopes of the Acropolis is the Agora, or the central meeting place for all ancient Athenians. Primarily of religious significance, but also used for business, politics and artisans. The main street was called the Panathenaic Way, which ran through the Agora to the main gate of Athens.

Stoa of Attalos

The Stoa of Attalos was central to the Agora and primarily used as a place to conduct business. Stoae are buildings constructed with a portico, as a defense against the sun and weather. It was reconstructed in the 1950s, using many of the original pieces, especially on the north side of the building, but reinforced in the basement area in order to be properly repurposed the building as a museum. Here is where the trades people, artisans and shop keepers could sell their wares and conduct business.

The Stoa of Attalos – The Facade

The portico serves as an outdoor museum, while the upstairs serves that same purpose, but provides that more indoor feeling. Many of the pieces are statues and busts of high ranking individuals in ancient Greek society.

The Temple of Hephaestus

Probably the most well preserved structure on the grounds of the Agora, even parts of the roof are still intact, is the Temple of Hephaestus. Considering its age and that fact that it was never destroyed during a war or plundered for building materials, it stands nimbly on the grounds of the Agora as a testament to Greek architecture.

Grounds of the Agora – The Temple of Hephaestus

Walking around the structure one can easily take photographs of its interior and columns.

The Odeon of Agrippa

Unfortunately not much of the Odeon of Agrippa structure still exists, with the exception of its magnificent columns. Built in relief, the four columns depicted giants and tritons, all of which are heavily damaged. Initially designed and built as a hall to hold performances in, its structure was not designed like other buildings to endure the ages. It fell into ruin fairly quickly and was rebuilt at some point in the second century and repurposed later as a lecture hall, only to be destroyed by a Herulian raid in 267 CE.

Statues at the entrance to the Odeon and Agrippa

Restaurants

As with any large European city restaurants abound in Athens and it offers a wide range of cuisines and options for anyone’s appetite. With some proper planning and reservations you should have no problem enjoying Greek dining during your vacation. Failure to do so will in most cases result in long wait times and exploring other options.

The Arcadia

We ate lunch at the Arcadia and enjoyed a very nice meal after a morning of exploring Athens.

Maiandros

Reservations are a must for this restaurant. The Maiandros Restaurant gets high marks for excellent traditional Greek cuisine and price. If you want to take advantage of its fine cooking and still have money left in your pocket, look no further than this restaurant. I would suggest ordering the Stifado, if you are meat lover (which I am not, but how could I resist), you will not be disappointed.

PalioTetradio

Perched atop a long staircase on the slopes of the Acropolis sits the Palio Tetradio. This little alley and staircase is packed with restaurants and is more of a tourist attraction and known for its ambiance, than its food and service.

However, they do have live music and since several of the other restaurants have their own musicians, it can feel like dueling musical talents as some points during your dinner.

The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Musicians

Wines

The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Athens. You don’t necessarily have to purchase a very expensive wine, most house wine is completely drinkable and satisfying.

A Map of Athens

A Map Of Athens
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Malpertus, Italy – Hiking The Pista Bassa

Hiking Val Pellice

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook – Another Panorama

This is just a quick post to document our first local hike from Malpertus to the closest town, Bobbio Pellice. As already mentioned in a previous post, there is a number of trails around that you can hike. The one we chose to go into town, is the same one that goes across Napolean’s Bridge just outside our Borgata and is called the Pista Bassa.

Once over the bridge the trail ascends quickly and then flattens out and appears to be used often by local farmers, since there are clear signs of tractor use. Since I want to keep this short, here are a few slide shows for the points  of interest.

The Pista Bassa Hike

Flowers of the Pista Bassa

Restaurants

Trattoria del Centro

After our short hike, it was time for lunch and some refreshment. Our local  host Sam quickly introduced us to the owner of the Trattoria del Centro, where we were able to order local home cooked food at a very reasonable price.

After our meal, which included wine, water, appetizer and pasta for both of us; then I order dessert, coffee and sambuca; and the entire bill came to 30€. I will also include that the Panna Cotta had the most delicate and creamy texture that I have yet had in Italy.

Leaving Bobbio Pellice – Pellice River

We returned to the Borgata the same way we came, which helped us discover a few more visual treats, especially a small outcropping with terrific views.

And a short video of Patti hiking the trail.

So that concluded our day hike from Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice, complete with Pranzo (that’s Italian for lunch). We found this a great short hike, with some points of interest along the way. So, if you are ever in the area, you should give it a try and enjoy the cool mountain air and beautiful surroundings. Ciao for now!

Trail Map

If you are interested in our trail map, see the image below. Or, while using standard and accepted security practices, feel free to download the PDF here.

Malpertus to BobbioPelice PistaBassa TrailMap, including Napolean’s Bridge
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Moncalieri, Italy – Turin’s Quaint Secret

Tucked along the eastern bank of the River Po and within the confines of the Metropolitan City of Turin sits Moncalieri. No more than a fifteen minute bike ride for me down the Corso Moncalieri from our apartment in Turin, it took us a twenty minute walk to the train station, followed by a twenty-five minute train ride, with a change in Lingotto. Of course, there are other options, but none that we could take conveniently from where we live in Turin.

Tickets for Two – Moncalieri – Turin

Moncalieri – The Town

A quick hop off the train and you may bump into the weekly market, if you travel there on the weekend. This is the traditional market that most places in Italy entertain at least once a week, so that locals can buy everything from household goods, cheap everyday things like sponges, to more exotica like gold coins and older things, some would like to call antiques.

Train station – Moncalieri, Turin

Once you have left the train station and navigated the small Borgo Navile, where the market is held, you will find the center of town by walking the via San Martino.

At the end of this short journey you will find the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II[1]Named after the King of the same name, the castle of Moncalieri was his favorite summer retreat, the town’s main fountain and the Comune Building for Moncalieri. The significance of the Roman God Neptune is unclear, other than he was the Roman God of Fresh Water and the Sea, and that the fountain was most likely the main source of water before indoor plumbing for the town’s people.

Neptune Statue – Comune Building in Moncalieri Center – Turin

Castello Reale di Moncalieri

A must see when visiting here is the large and private Castle Real of Moncalieri. For a modest fee you can enter the castle, which experienced a fire in 2008[2]The fire destroyed several rooms on the upper floor and was contained, but most of the damaged was just contained and never renovated., and take the guided tour, which is only in Italian. Fear not, there are enough references in the story for most people to follow and our tour guide did speak english and filled us in while walking on the more important points.

Restaurants

Osteria e Gastronomia

Tucked between the UniCredit Bank and an apartment building off the beginning of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II is a very good restaurant, the Osteria e Gastronomia. It was already lunch time, so we grabbed a small two person table right in the alleyway and were immediately greated by our hosts. A quick view of the menu and we were ready for some delicious Piemontese food.

Osteria e Gastronomia – Moncalieri,Turin

I ordered the Agnolotti del plin tradizionali con sugo d’arrosto, a typical Piedmont dish of very tiny ravioli stuffed with meat in a meat sauce, very tasty! It doesn’t look like much, but is actually very filling. Along with some bread, a glass of Nebbiollo alla spina, and water, how can you go wrong for lunch?

Agnolotti del plin tradizionali con sugo d’arrosto

Patti ordered the Agnolotti con salsiccia di Bra e porri con crema di parmigiano e guanciale croccante, which are larger ravioli made with sausage from Bra and leeks, topped with Bacon. A little Parmesan and you have a great lunch.

Agnolotti con salsiccia di Bra e porri con crema di parmigiano e guanciale croccante

Well, we hope you enjoyed our adventure to Moncalieri, because we did and were actually surprised. Though it took longer to get there than we had originally hoped, it wasn’t all that bad and definitely worth the trip, if only for the food!

References

References
↑1 Named after the King of the same name, the castle of Moncalieri was his favorite summer retreat
↑2 The fire destroyed several rooms on the upper floor and was contained, but most of the damaged was just contained and never renovated.
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We Have Returned To Turin

Well we are finally back in Turin and enjoying the weather, food and getting our lives back together. Our first week consisted of maintenance, paying bills and getting some chores done, typical things that have to be done after being away so long. So for our first short entry, a small video clip on picking up a roasted chicken at our favorite place, Girarrosti Santa Rita, located across the river Po, next to the Chiesa Parrocchiale della Gran Madre di Dio. This is a great place for picking up a roasted chicken with potatoes, then bring it back to your apartment or hotel room and enjoy. Though the price has gone up to about 10€, from its former price of about 7€, we still think it’s a great buy, especially when you are starving and do not want to cook. Enjoy!

Restaurants

Trattoria D’Agata

One on our way to purchase plumbing supplies, to fix our bathroom drain which had gone bad in our absence, we were hungry for Pizza. Having already visited Pizzium on via Eusebio Bava, we decided to try Trattoria D’Agata across the street and were not disappointed. Patti had the Taleggio e Funghi pizza, with Taleggio a local cheese, tomatoes, Fiordilatte (cow’s milk mozzarella) and mushrooms; and I had the Napoli, with tomatoes, Fiordilatte, oregano and Acciughe (Anchoivies).

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Naples, Italy – National Archaeological Museum and More

National Archaeological Museum of Naples

If you are an archaeological nut and ever have enough time to spend in Naples, you must visit the National Archaeological Museum. It houses an impressive collection from ancient Naples, from its ancient Greek roots through its Roman and Sicilian Empire phases, to the present. It also has a fabulous collection of artifacts from Pompeii and the Roman Period. It is found on the interesection of Piazza Cavour and Via Enrico Pessina. At the time of this writing, it can no longer be gotten to by the Museum Metro Stop, which has been closed for some time, but rather from the Piazza Cavour Metro Stop and then a short walk along that street.

National Archaeological Museum – Main Entrance

The Ground or First Floor – Main Gallery

The main gallery on the ground floor has a unique and amazing collection of statues, mostly from the Roman Period, but there are also more ancient sculptures as well. It features in the back of the hall the Farnese Bull from Roman times.

There are also a few other examples from the Farnese Collection, including Hercules and others. This section is definitely worth a quiet, long walk through with plenty of reading and afterthought. Examination of any one of these magnificent works reveal detail that someone in today’s day and age would think otherwise superfluous, and yet it would not be the work it is today without that fine attention to detail.

Leaving the main gallery and proceeding upstairs you pass the two dominant representations of Ocean or Oceanus, the god the ultimate river – the oceans. It is still not none precisely the etymology of this word and therefore it may not have any antecendents. However, one look at these two figures and you can tell that whomever this god represented, he was a very serious fellow, he had to be the dominate force for all water.

The First Floor – The Mosaic Gallery

Here one can find all sorts of ancient mosaics, however most are from Pompeii. Made of paste and ceramic all are equisitely done in the form of a story to tell the onlooker.

The Third Floor – The Glass Gallery

Has a small, succinct, but very important collection of ancient glass made during the Pompeiien and Roman periods. Some have handwork and detail that cannot be rivaled today.

The Gallery of Pompeiien Erotica

No visit would be complete without a visit to the erotic gallery, where all manner of erotica are on display from the dead city of Pompeii. The Quakers and the Puritans would have had a field day in this city at its peak. Not only was prostitution flaunted as an everday fact in everyone’s face, but the public had personal art created for display and enjoyment in their own houses. Without much else to say the following is shown as a slideshow, feel free to opt-out if you are not up to the intellectual and spiritual challenge.

The Basement Floor – The Maritime Archaeological Gallery

All things maritime are located in the basement floor. A wide collection of maritime artifacts and archaeological specific display can be found in this section. There are also displays from the escavations of Pompeii having to do with the city itself, including is ancient public plumbing.

Restaurants

Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria

A short fifteen minute walk away from the museum, down the Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, Via San Sebastiano and Via Santa Chiara (all the same street mind you), you will find Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria. Another exceptional place with homemade creations to tempt most palettes. We entered this restaurant just before it started raining and were not disappointed, a fine place to visit with nice staff that is definitely NOT a tourist trap.

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Salerno, Italy – Tyrrhenian Jewel

Waterfront – Salerno, Italy

Needing to get out of Naples, if only for a day, we took the train south to Salerno in discovery of yet another ancient city along the Italian Mediterranean Sea. A short train ride of only a half an hour puts you there, three blocks in from from its coastal port and jetties that border the bright blue Tyrrhenian Sea.

We spent a leisurely Monday walking the streets of this nicely kept secret. It is definitely not a tourist destination and you will see few if any here, those preferring Capri, Almalfi Coast and other must-see places on someone else’s list.

Benedictine Aqueducts

The city has one of the most impressive examples of the architecture of the Ogival Arch, which in the ninth century was innovative and rare. It was so uncommon, that superstition around the arches and their use built up over the years, to the point where the town’s people were convinced it was the work of the devil, or at the very least, demons from hell. In any case, the aqueducts were built by and supplied water to the local Benedictine Monastery, and later to a convent in Piantanova.

The Basilica of Salerno is not far from the aqueducts and the Benedictine Monastery. Its most striking feature is the tower, which was built in the Arab-Norman style. The palazzo inside contains a small fountain and its archways are reminiscent of the Florentine style.

A quintessential thing to do, is to walk along Salerno’s Lungomare Trieste and enjoy the beautiful weather and seaside. This exceptional boardwalk continues straight for about five miles and has numerous places to sit and relax among the beautiful palm trees that were planted there long ago.

Restaurants

Taverna Santa Maria De Domno

Perhaps one of the best places I have ever eaten. The Pasta Genovese here is absolutely to die for, I have found none better in Naples and the surrounding area, and I have tried many. The wine list is also very good and you will have no problem selecting a delicious local varietal that grows on the slopes of Vesuvius for your gastronomic pleasure.

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Naples, Italy – For The Love Of Food

The streets of Naples are full of food. There are not only the typical butchers, bakers and even soap makers, but also cafes, ristorantes and all sorts of other odd types of shops (to Americans anyways) selling what I would call contemporary traditional or ancient traditional goods. For example, there is a coffee shop on one street in the historic center that brews coffee using the old, slow drip process – the typical way before World War II (in fact you cannot buy espresso there).

If you are not particular to just meat or seafood, you can also go to the local Tripperia where you may purchase animal organs. In the Market District there are several places to choose from and they sell everything from Tripe, to Stomach and Intestines, to Brains and other blood organs. The Tripe and Stomach display at Fiorenzano’s (like others) was especially interesting, since it had dripping water in the case while the butcher was slicing away at the stomachs and other organs people were ordering.

Fiorenzano’s also has a Friggitoria just down the street, where locals come to purchase quickly fried items that are choosen from the display case. This includes everything from potato fritter like delicacies, to pizza, focaccia and other Neapolitan favorites.

For one day we had a splendid tour of the historic center of Naples with our tour guide Federica. It was a walking tour of the city center that included strategic stops along the way to sample some of Naples’ street food. Some were easier to carry than others and we found ourselves, at least once, stopping to sit at a table to handle some of the more larger entrees we were offered.

In the historic streets of Naples you can walk the streets and find a store with a very common sign stating, “O’Sicchietiell e Muzzarell” in the Neapolitan language. Which is probably not far from the Italian for Ciliegini (shortened version of pomodoro ciliegini), or Cherry Tomatoes and Mozzarella. You may purchase a large or small cup, it comes with a small wooden fork, basilico and extra virgin olive oil and you can just eat them as you walk around.

The famous Sorbillo’s Pizza has another store, which was founded in 1935, where you can purchase the traditional Pizza Fritta. This pizza is actually fried and not baked. It is made almost the same as traditional pizza up to the point – where they closed up all the sides, pinching them closed to ensure none of the ingredients can leak. Then they throw it in a very large frying pan with oil in it. It is served after it has turned a golden brown on brown piece of paper and can be sprinkled with salt or other spices. It is almost like a Calzone, but tastes completely different because of the frying process imparts a different taste to the dough. If you are a pizza lover, it is something you must try at least once.

Another great thing to snack on, either while you walk or to bring home in a bag, are Taralli. At Coppola’s you will find these traditional biscuits along with other great treats. Taralli are made with lard, or fat, and are traditionally spiced with pepper. However, today almost all of the stores add almonds to the mix, in order to impart some extra flavor to this Neapolitan staple. Since they are a bit savory, but usually not salty, the pepper and almond comes through rather nicely.

Sfogliatella, it conjures up thoughts of heavenly gastronomic bliss. We end with this amazing pastry since most people probably are not aware that there are actually two different types. There is the Riccia, which everyone knows and loves with its characteristic million folds of dough (almost like Phyllo dough) which is hard and rather crunchy, with a center of Ricotta Cheese filling. Then there is the Frolla, which is almost the same, except it does not have all the folds in its dough, is softer and has more of a shiny appearance. Both are delicious and it usually comes down to personal preference on which one you like better.

However, we must pause yet again, for most people are probably not aware that the original Sfogliatella did not have a Ricotta Cheese filling, but rather a blander and much easier to eat filling made of semolina dough and hazelnuts and/or almonds. At Sfolgliate you can find this traditional Sfogliatella made the way it was intended. It is, at this time, the only store in all of Naples that adheres to the old tradition. We tried the Riccia and must say, it was delicious!

That’s it for our food tour of historic Naples, hope you enjoyed it and learned something about the delicious food they have to offer but have not exported. I know, sad for us all, but definitely worth a try if you visit.

 

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Naples, Italy – The Egg And Bourbon Tunnels

Some Sights In San Ferdinando To See

After a thorough introduction to Naples, we decided it was time to see some things we had shoved to one side until we got time.

Castle dell’Ovo

Castel dell’Ovo, also known as The Egg or the Egg Castle is situated in the Bay of Naples.  It used to be a small island, but was attached some time ago to make it more accessible.  Entrance is free, even though you do have to schedule your attendance online. However, aside from the views, there truly is not much to see.  It appears to have been reused for administration and other city or port related uses.

The Bourbon Tunnels

There are tunnels, aqueducts and other underground features all throughout Naples. None has probably had more contemporary use than the Bourbon Tunnels, which were converted and used during World War II as bomb shelters and storage. There are two entrances to this underground museum, for scheduling reason we had to enter Vico del Grottone, the same street that our restaurant below for lunch was on, so very convenient.

The following of our tour is provided uncaptioned, there is more information in the above internet link.

Restaurants

Trattoria da Ettore

This trattoria, as many others outside of the touristy areas, is an excellent little mom and pop restaurant. It has only six tables and when they are full for lunch, you are turned away (the same is true for dinner and probably for most restaurants in Italy, when they are full, they are full, so get there early). It is located on Vico del Grottone and it is figuratively speaking a hole in the wall.

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Naples, Italy – Hiking Vesuvius

It is possible to hike to the summit of Mount Vesuvius. For a modest fee you can put on your best walking of hiking shoes and climb to the summit from within a few hundred meters in elevation. On a clear day, it is totally worth it, not only for the views of Naples but also for that curious look at what might be going on inside the crater. Our guide Federica, from MindTheNap Tours, along with Pasquale our driver took us there for the day. She has excellent knowledge of the volcano, its history and all its eruptions, as well as other off beat information regarding the consecration of the volcano by the church.

The Climb

The ascent is not very rigorous, there are plenty of old people walking up and they do hand out walking sticks, if you are so inclined. Now, on to the slide show for which I have not captioned anything, since most should be self explanatory.

A few short videos while we were on the way up and at the summit. The audio is probably terrible, it was very windy and cold that day.

The trip up, around the crater wall and back down took us a little over an hour. But it can be completed faster, we just happened  to take our time. The drive there on the other hand depends on traffic, which as you can imagine can be problematic in Naples.

Wineries

At the foot of Mount Vesuvius are many wineries, which grew certain types of varietals, aglianico, caprettone and piedrosso, that work well with the volcanic soils.

Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery Russo Family

After our ascent up the mountain we spent a few hours in the afternoon having a tour, wine tasting and lunch at the Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery of the Russo Family. We tasted the following before and during our lunch.

РRos̬ Sparkling Wine (100% aglianico grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOP (100% caprettone grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Rosato DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Riserva (80% piedirosso e 20% aglianico grapes)
– Passito Bianco IGT (50% caprettone, 50% falanghina grapes)
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Naples, Italy – A Better Feel

Naples and Vesuvius from Sant Elmo

After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question where exactly you are at any given time. But one thing is for sure, you will find some uniqueness between them all. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place. I for one think it’s a great city and the Neapolitans are fantastic people.

After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question at any given time where exactly your are, but one thing is for sure you will find some uniqueness. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place.

The real hard core vibe of Naples is the juxtaposition of the Centro Storico, or the historic center – with its throngs of tourists, against the backdrop and grittiness of The Spanish Quarter, the pandemonium of San Frenando, Porto and Mercato; and the quiet calm of Vomero and Chiaia. If you are looking for a city with stark contrasts, Naples is the city for you.

Naples – The Spanish Quarter

The Spanish Quarter

The Spanish Quarter obtained its name from the garrison of Spanish that were housed here and given the job to keep order throughout the city. It is entirely made up of narrow streets, passages, stairs and back alleyways that knit this complex community together. Directly alongside the Historic Center on one side and the hill of Vomero, it is quite self contained and apparently, from the looks of things, not very open to change, since from the looks of things nothing apparently has since they arrived.

With dirt and filth comes disease. As the photograph attests to a dramatic outbreak of cholera that swept through this part of the city in the 1800s, leaving behind devastation and death. Even today it is still actively adorned with flowers and other bits of memorabilia for protection, partly due to faith and partly due to superstition. Though all educated people know, it is easily combated with cleanliness and hygiene.

Centro Storico

The old part of the city has the most historical artifacts, churches and other points of interest. It is infested with tourists though, so planning is key. It is best to keep an eye on the number of cruise ships at dock (at any time there can be up to five very large ships docked) and then take your chances that you will have a minimal crowd.

Naples – Statue del Dio Nilo – San Lorenzo

As can be imagined there are a myriad of shops, cafes and restaurants in this area, which is comprised of the San Lorenzo Quarter. It is world famous for its Christmas Alley of Armeno, which is officially known as via San Gregorio Armeno.

Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley

Deep in the heart of the historic center is a street that is known as Christmas Alley. It does not pay to explain, except through pictures.

Vomero

Located on the hill adjacent to Chiaia and the Spanish Quarter is Vomero. Easily reached by taking one of the Funicular Trains from one of three places, Funicular Park in Chiaia, Augusteo in San Ferdinando or Montesanto in the Spanish Quarter. For a reasonable 1.10€ you can ascend to Vomero to visit the sights that it has to offer and enjoy its fine restaurants.

Castle Sant Elmo

In Vomero the Castle of Sant Elmo stands ever watchful over Naples. Known initially as Belforte, it was built sometime in the thirteenth century.

The castle is a sprawling edifice atop the hill commanding a view of all of Naples, including the hills behind it and the entire Gulf of Naples. Fitted previously with large guns, it must have been a formidable deterrent at one time. Visitors can walk the entirety of its parapets with all of its amazing views of the city, the gulf and surrounding islands.

Cloister di San Martino

Just below the Castle of Sant Elmo sits the monastery and cloister of San Martino. Converted into a museum, it too commands a view of the Gulf of Naples.

The museum has a selection of old royal carriages and artifacts from the late Renaissance. From old frescoes, paintings and church memorabilia it houses many religious antiquities from famous Napoletano church leaders. Then there are the creches of Christ’s birth, which are extremely detailed and draw your attention to every little thing that each one of the small characters is modeled to portray.

Restaurants

Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria

One of the place to go apparently in Naples is Gino e Toto Sorbillo’s Pizzeria. Located on via dei Tribunali it gathers a crowd early, so getting there a half an hour or so ahead of time would reduce your wait. During normal times it may even be wiser to queue up earlier. We happen to go during a day when only one cruise ship arrived and got there twenty minutes early and we were about fourth in line. The place is rather large, but by the time we were finished people were waiting outside for some time.

The pizza is simple but amazing. Having never eaten here before, we ordered the recommended Pizza Margherita. With a half bottle of their own red wine and some water we were quite full and happy when we left.

Armando Scartuchio

Armando Scartuchio is a chain of cafes with a rich history and several stores sprinkled throughout the city and a must place to stop. Though we only stopped at one, it must hold mostly true that any pastries made by this company taste more a less the same, no matter where you eat them. We found ours just outside the Spanish Quarter in Montecalvario.

While staying in Naples it is an absolute necessity to stop each day around eleven o’clock or so to have coffee and a bite to eat. This is an excellent place to recharge your morning battery. Still early enough to order two Cappuccino and some very good baked goods, an excuse to drink, eat and further discuss the plans of the day. We ordered a few very interest things we thought we just had to taste.

TrattoriaMalinconico

Situated well out of the way is Trattoria Malinconico. A place not often, if ever, visited by tourists, so they were quite interested and curious when we stopped for lunch.

For starters, this Trattoria is in Vomero, which is on top of the hill. Therefore you must either take one of the three funiculars to get there or climb a very large and then still walk a kilometer or so before reaching it. Even then, it is kind of hidden around the corner from the well established market street on the end of a dead end street in a sort of strip mall.

In any case, the food is excellent and home cooked. Our interest was is getting the most authentic tasting Beef Genovese that we could find and our searches ended us up at this small but excellent establishment. What we found on the menu was actually that, but it was called Pasta Genovese with Meat, also known as Genovese Completa. It didn’t matter, for 8€ we ordered it with a mezzo litro of red wine and ate our hearts out.