Moneglia – Taking The High Path

We have a saying in our country, though no longer often heeded by some of our leaders, of taking the high path or road. In the comune of Moneglia you can actually do this, though not figuratively speaking; but by actually lacing up your hiking shoes and climbing the hills that gird this fine town. Not only will you feel better than those that don’t take the high road, you will also have a better view!

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XX And -. Our Chosen Paths

Planning And The Initial Ascent

Before any ascent, a quick visit to the local tourist information center should be your first stop. There they can inform you on the best way to enter the maze of paths and hiking trails that criss-cross the hills and country-side above the town; they can also offer you a handy map for your initial planning and your pocket along the way.

To find the entry point to the Northwest you can more or less follow via Caveri that takes you to the train station, then a short way on via Ammiraglio Bollo. On the left hand side of that road, there will be a concrete staircase that ascends from the sidewalk. A little further walk from there will bring you to the sign shown above. Again, it is best by now to have a very good idea of where you are headed, since not all signs along the way are as clear as the one above. However, the trails are well marked with the indicators assigned to them, so as long as you know where you are headed, you should have no difficulties.

The initial ascent has some stairs and long, inclined walkways that are fairly easy to navigate. After this, the ascent only gets steeper, though it is all on pavement and semi-improved roadway. It’s not too long before you notice that you are making real progress getting above the town.

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A View Of The Bay At The Very Start

Hiking The Cresta Di Comunaglia

After this, you make a quick turn off the pavement and into what looks to most as a gully. It almost looks like something you shouldn’t hike.

Once the path turns off the roadway it is rather steep and a bit treacherous. Though you could use sneakers, hiking shoes are strongly advised. The path when it starts out is essentially a stream bed that probably gets full rather quickly during heavy thunderstorms and downpours.

After some time, and about two to three hundred meters of elevation, the path levels out somewhat. It is still important to pay close attention, there are many hazards, loose rocks and roots along the path.

Walking along the Crest of Comunaglia is far less difficult than the climb. There are a few areas where you must mind yourself, falling would prove very problematic. However, the views along the crest path are well worth the time and effort. To get to this point, it took us about one hour of good hiking, while drinking plenty of water every fifteen minutes or so. It was in the high seventies and we brought 75cl of water for each us, which was just about enough. I would recommend, if it is in the eighties or ninties, bring MORE, do not dehydrate, there is nothing around for you to get more!

The entire hike took us a little over two hours, up and back. We had to pace ourselves somewhat, since sitting in Turin for three months has not improved our stamina at all. But if you are into hiking there are tons of trails around, you can even trek from one town to the next. Just plan for the weather and bring plenty of water.

Piccolo Hotel Restaurant

The restaurant of the Piccolo hotel is very nice and due to the current restrictions and low attendance here, we were very well served. Good thing too, after a good day hiking, we were both starving.

The traditional spaghetti in clam sauce is always a hit with me, served with Piccadilly tomatoes, clams and oil, it is a great starter. I also ordered the Cima alla Genovese, which is made with peas, ceci beans and other vegetables, along with a hard boiled egg, rolled in thinly pounded veal. It must be refrigerated, sliced and served cold. It was not only unusual, but along with slightly vinegared carrots, surprisingly good; a very Genovese dish. Patti had grilled Octopus with a cream made from garbanzo beans (ceci in Italy). I tasted that too and it was amazing. Taking into account the quality of the food and service, a very good restaurant. The end to a great day in Moneglia. Until next time, ciao!

London – Part Three

Another day in London and more to see. Before we left, our daughter Meagan purchased the 3-day London Pass. The pass is a bit pricey, but gets you into loads of Museums, Memorials, Churches and many other places. This includes, the Churchill War Rooms, HMS Belfast, the Shard, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and many others. So we thought it might be a good buy.

Churchill War Rooms

If you have any interest at all how the British and their Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, survived and ultimately helped win the war, then you have to see his war rooms.

As can be imagined, London itself is teaming with memorials from all of its wars. This one however is amazing, because it impresses upon the visited some of the effort, at the highest levels, it took to fight a war on a global scale.

England was not only fighting the Germans, but also the Japanese, who invaded their southeast Asian colonies as well.

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Churchill’s Direct Line with the White House

During those times both England and America saw the need for direct communications and arrange a phone system to stretch completely across the Atlantic Ocean. A feat we take for granted today.

The War Rooms are full of interactive venues where you can take your time to read, explore and learn about the man who took England through one of the most dangerous and dark times in its history.

The HMS Belfast

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HMS Belfast

As promised in my earlier post, we did indeed have the occasion to board the HMS Belfast. Again, it’s part of the London Pass and allows you to roam a WWII era British Cruiser.

Since we have already discussed the ship in Part One, we give you a slide show of the ship as you can explore and see it.

And if you are looking for enemies, well I imagine this baby can still find ’em..! [Joke: it’s only a prop]

Eating

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If you are ever in London and looking for a place to eat, there are of course as you can imagine, thousands to choose from. We have eaten at the following restaurants and can recommend them all highly.

The Wolseley

We had a brunch here and the atmosphere, perhaps a take on old empire England with Oriental panels, was unique.

The food was everything, from the usual simple English breakfast fare, to the more exotic dishes with fish, animal organs, etc. However, they have bacon and eggs and their egg omelets are great too!

The Hawksmoor Seven Dials

I have no idea how they derived this name, so do not ask. However, if you are looking for a good steak, this is the place to go, a carnivores heaven.

The food prices here are, as expected, a bit on the high side, but not as high as some of the wine. There are only a few entries in the wine list under 50£. For example, the Chateau de Beaucastel above, went for 165£. So bring your plastic, or plenty of cash.

The Ivy

This is perhaps my favorite. A cozy place that serves several different and interesting kinds of fare, backed up by a reasonably priced wine list.

The atmosphere here is just great, since the architecture of the building is a triangle; there are stained glass windows all around you. The bar is the centerpiece and very well done, surrounded by tables with small lamps on them, reminiscent of something out of a by-gone era. Highly recommended!

Turin – Piolas – Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini

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The Menu

Occasionally, you come across a restaurant, caffe or bar which just hits all the buttons correctly. For us this occurred last evening at Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini.

I don’t want to call this place a hole in the wall, but that is the first impression a foreigner, an American, will have. All in all it might measure twenty by thirty feet inside, sixty or seventy square feet maximum, including the bar. But, the food is unmatched by other restaurants much larger in size. So, either there is a huge kitchen somewhere we could not see, or the chef is a magician.

To be honest, there is an outdoor patio in the back where they are able to seat perhaps another forty or so guests. We were fortunate this evening to get our own table inside next to the door and near the bar, to watch all the comings and goings (people watching is an acceptable hobby in Italy.)

A Piola Menu

As can be seen by the rather large display above, the menu is displayed on the wall. This is typical for a Piola, a Torinese-style restaurant that has daily offers of food at reasonable prices (or in Italian, a termine piemontese dal significato di osteriabar).

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Tagliere of Salumi and Formaggi, along with other great stuff to eat

For our dinner we selected the Salami and Cheese plate for two. To accompany this, we also ordered the vinegar roasted zucchini squash, roasted peppers and Polpette di Carni (or hot meatballs).

The meat tasted as one would expect, a nice selection of salami and prosciutto. The cheese selection was very good, especially the blue cheese which reminded us of a Stilton and the other whiter cheese above which reminded us of a sharp white cheddar.

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Nizza, San Luigi, 2015 – DOCG

The meatballs and zucchini were to die for. It was actually difficult to tell what kind of meat, were in the meatballs (and frankly we were afraid to ask since horsemeat is an acceptable meat in Italy.) But, the spices and the particular way in which they were cooked (it looked like deep-frying but not sure it was), was very tasty. The squash on the other hand was served cold, but the vinegar gave it such a pop in your mouth, you wanted to order more.

The Wine

This specific place also sports a rather nice wine list. Since we were looking for something red to pair with the meatballs, salami and cheese, we went with a nice Barbera. The Nizza from San Luigi, 2015 was an excellent choice. Dry and aromatic with fruity overtones of cherry, it combined very nicely with our meal. A wine which is sure on my short list of choices when I visit my local wine store in the future!

In Conclusion

Though it was our evening out to celebrate our 37th anniversary, we had expected to spend a bit more. So, when the bill came and it came to a total of 37€, we were delightfully surprised. Not only because we thought it so inexpensive, but that we got such good food and atmosphere at such an affordable and reasonable price.

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The bar at Caffe Vivi Emilio Ranzini

We are sure the menu changes often, weekly at least, perhaps even daily. Our plans are to go back for lunch. One word of caution. They do have Summer hours (9:30-2:30, 5:30-8:30) starting in June, which are reduced from the hours posted on Google. However, we would recommend this place for either lunch or dinner and it’s just two blocks off of via Garibaldi!

5.0 stars! 

Turin – Food Shopping Adventures

Since Turin is a city, there are no shortage of grocery stores.  We’ve been here for several months now and have discovered stores that satisfy all of our needs and wants.  When we first moved here, we just frequented the regular grocery stores, as we had too many other important issues to handle.  But, now that we have more time, we have set out to discover all the ‘Mom & Pop’ shops.

Our nearest large grocery store is Lidl – a 10 minute walk.  It is a German grocery chain, however, here it has mostly Italian products.  (We had a Lidl in North Raleigh that had both American and German products). Here, as in the States, it carries mostly off-brand products with only a few brand-name ones.  We found their produce to be very good, as most are grown locally or within other regions of Italy.  Here in Italy, unlike the States, vegetables are seasonal. Certain produce are not year-round, with the exception of imported red peppers from Spain.  Prices are quite low, even on brand-name items.  We usually buy our paper products, olive oil (our favorite is Molini brand), milk, butter,  and eggs at Lidl.  We have also purchased chicken and sausage and found it to be very good.

Animal products, in general, are all raised in Italy. No matter if you shop in a grocery store or at the Farmer’s Market, everything is weighed, including iceberg lettuce and celery.  Items are typically not sold as ‘a head’.  You also have to wear plastic gloves to handle the produce.  You weigh the produce, and place the price tag label on it, not the cashier.  Though there are still exceptions where the cashier weighs it.

There is a HUGE grocery chain store called IperCoop that we had discovered while staying in the AirBnb.  Now that we have moved to our long-term apartment, it is quite a distance away.  We now have to walk and take a tram to get there, which takes approx. 50 minutes roundtrip.   We do go once in a while, as we find their prices to be competitive.  When I say HUGE, it is big, even by US standards.  It is like a Super Walmart or Super Target.  It has a pharmacy, electronics, and gardening section, besides the usual bakery and butcher.  Their produce is great – Farmer’s Market fresh.  I wish it were closer, as it would be our go-to grocery store.  I am going to digress here a little bit – the IperCoop reminds me a lot of when I was growing up and I would go shopping with my Mom to Shop-Rite in Hudson.  Hudson had a large Italian-American population, so we were able to buy items in-store, that we were never able to find once we moved to North Carolina.  Of course, in Italy, we see these very same items that aren’t in your average American grocery store. Yes, we’ve eaten them all!

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Calf’s Tongue and Pig’s Feet in IperCoop – With a Glimpse of Tripe to the Right 🙂

There are also numerous mini-markets throughout the city, equipped with meat, produce, etc. – just on a smaller scale than a regular grocery store.  We don’t purposely go to them, but when we are out and happen to see one, we stop in to see if there is anything we may need or what they are offering.

Our all-time favorite is the outdoor Farmer’s Market.  Our closest one is about a 15 minute walk in the San Salvario area of Turin on Via Madama Cristina.  It is open every day, except Sunday.  (Stores are closed on Sunday, except for Lidl).  There are many Farmer’s Markets throughout the city.  This happens to be our closest one and it is big enough to have everything we need. Besides produce vendors, there are cheese, meat, bakery, fish and flower vendors.  Everything is grown locally in the countryside outside of Turin.  The vendors bring their produce of the day and it is all so fresh! My favorite so far are Piccadilly Tomatoes.  They have the most intense fresh-from-the-garden taste!  It is more of an effort to shop at the Farmer’s Market, due to having to speak (a bit in) Italian!  Remember, no pounds here! Everything is in kilograms, (2.2 pounds= 1 kilogram).  You are not allowed to touch the items.  You have to tell the vendor which one you want, or how much.  If you touch produce, you will get yelled at.  Ask me how I know 🙂

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Farmer’s Market on Via Madama Cristina
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Piccadilly Tomatoes – YUM!!
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Squash with Flower Blossoms, Onions, Tomatoes, Fresh Mozzarella, Fresh Pasta, Celery and Radishes

Squash flower blossoms are one of my favorites.  Again, my Mom used to make them. Of course these are seasonal, as the squash are picked very early.  The squash are so tender and the blossoms are delicious.  Erick had them for the first time and enjoyed them too. We also purchased fresh Agnolotti pasta – a Piemontese specialty.  They can be stuffed with a variety of fillings, including horsemeat, beef, rabbit, pork or veal with spinach.  I didn’t ask the vendor what filling was in the ones I purchased; maybe I should have, but it was delicious anyway!

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Patti shopping for fresh Agnolotti – The lady to my right told me that I needed to pick a number. Hey, I’m only trying to look right now! LOL  I guess she thought I might cut in front of her.  Erick joked about how we all must be related, due to how short we all are. Wise guy!
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Fried Squash Flower Blossoms – SOOO delicious!
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Just a common bunch of broccoli and garlic

After we leave the Farmer’s Market, we usually head to the bakery nearby.  Who doesn’t love the smell of freshly baked bread? We go to Panificio Ficini Valter on Via Claudio Luigi Berthollet.  Everything is weighed in Italy and I mean EVERYTHING.  You don’t pay for one loaf of bread – instead it is weighed.  I don’t have pictures of bread. I guess it gets eaten up too quickly.  For a large ciabatta, you will only pay about €1.20 (approx $1.34).  Even in Lidl, they bake bread and it is super cheap and delicious.  For a baguette, you will get charged €.39 (approx $.44). Bread shops here also make slices of pizza and panini. It is all so delicious.  Another bakery we go to, which is a 10 minute walk from home is Perino Vesco on Via Cavour.  They are all amazing!

Next stop is the butcher.  Erick and I are not huge meat-eaters, however the meat is so lean and fresh here, that we always want to buy something.  Chicken breasts are truly a deep yellow color.  All the beef is so lean and tender.  Of course, they will cut everything to order. We go to the one closest to the Farmer’s Market – it doesn’t have a name.  It literally just says “Macelleria” on the outside sign. Right now, I can’t even think what street it is on.  There are butcher shops closer to our apartment, so I’m sure we will visit some others soon.  They are all so crowded (including the bread shops) that it is difficult to take photos and I don’t want to get yelled at 🙂

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Beef Flank Stuffed with Seasoned Ground Beef – It was delicious!  Meat is the most expensive item here.  But, 5.35 euros is still a deal!

Now to talk about foods that we are used to buying in the US – I cook a lot of Italian-American food, but there comes a time we want something different.  We were in Conad (another grocery store that we really like) one day when Erick spotted some fixins to make Tacos! That is one thing I like about living in a city in Italy – better access to other ethnic foods that you wouldn’t ordinarily find in smaller towns.  Lidl from time to time will do an “American” week or “Mexican” week, but since we’ve been here, have not seen it.  Well, we didn’t have to wait for “American” week! Conad has taco soft shells, and salsa ALL the time! No brand-name items but they tasted just as good.  There was no taco seasoning, but we substituted chili seasoning instead – it worked!

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Taco fixin’ – all was pretty inexpensive.  Imported from Sweden!

Another food item that is difficult to find here are pierogies.  They are a great alternative to potatoes, rice and noodles.  Thankfully for Google, I found a grocery store called Mix Markt. This time a 20 minute walk took us to this (Eastern)European/Middle Eastern/Russian market.  It had items of course that we had never seen before nor could identify! 🙂  We found potato pierogies from Austria – Bingo!  The highlight of this grocery store were these cans of fish or should I say cans of crap! 🙂

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Cans of Crap in Tomato Sauce or Spicy Hot!  For 10 Euro Cents More You Can Get Filet of Crap! Take Your Pick!

We believe this is Carp (misspelled) in a can – goldfish? Who knows?  Imported from Portugal.  Either way, Crap or Carp, no thank you!