Having stayed in Salzburg for about three days, we were eager to explore other areas within the beautiful Austrian countryside. After discussing our options with our daughter Ericka and her boyfriend Gabi, and having heard so much about the little town of Hallstatt, we decided it might be a good idea to try and pay it a visit.
The beautiful Austrian Countryside between Wolfgangsee and Hallstattersee
Hallstatt
From Salzburg, about a hour’s drive away or so, is the tiny town of Hallstatt. Billed by Rick Steves, and many others, as the place to see in Austria, the so called quintessential Austrian town – hemmed in by mountains on one side, the Hallstattersee on the other and a stream dividing it – it must have been, back in the day. I stress, must have been, because it is no longer, thanks to over-tourism.
Hallstattersee and Hallstatt from Afar
It is much like Venice now, spoiled by the hords of people that descend upon it daily and ruin its quaint charm, it is nothing but a hollowed-out tourist trap. Do not bother going, unless of course you are willing to do the Covid-elbow-rub with thousands of others. It is so overrun, even in times like these, that they have parking attendants, much like they have in the US at a state fair! It is so bad, people park along the sides of the roads for kilometers and walk in, perhaps for up to an hour. Therefore, after several U-turns and mulling it over for ten minutes or so, we didn’t think it worth the risk, nor the increased burden on the town. We gladly passed it by…
Suggestion: With the exception of major cities, here is something you may want to try. If you have paid for a travel book, circle everything in it on a map, and just don’t go there. Part of traveling should be discovery, not necessarily traveling on someone else’s footsteps. Unless it’s large city, like Rome or Paris, I am sure the people in these tiny little towns – who have been targeted by the tourism industry – will thank you, if anyone still lives there.
In our travels, we have been in some seriously one horse towns, and though some may be considered down right boring, we have never regretted visiting any of them.
Obertraun
This tiny little place is not in anyone’s book and consequently, is nothing to look at, but it has fantastic views. It has a beautiful park where you can walk and enjoy the day, you can even make arrangements to go swimming, boating or paddle-boarding.
Hallstattersee by Obertraun
Hallstattersee by Obertraun
Additionally, there are ferry rides that can take you to other places along the lake. At the time we were here, they were running a reduced scheduled, so you may want to have alternate plans, if planning a visit soon.
Sankt Gilgen
Another quiet little gem is the small town of St. Gilgen, or Sankt Gilgen. It is on the road to Salzburg along the Wolfgangsee. We spent a quiet afternoon here, eating lunch, walking and talking and enjoying the town, almost tourist-free.
The Wolfgangsee
This little town seems to enjoy mostly local tourists, probably from the surrounding countryside, eager to get out and relax in the beautiful waters of the Wolfgangsee. There appears to be a host of things you can do on the water, as well as cycling, camping and just sunbathing.
A Place Through The Ages
St. Gilgen
St. Gilgen – Denkmal
St. Gilgen – Small Garden
St. Gilgen – The Mozart House
St. Gilgen – Copper-roofed Building Along The Quay
St. Gilgen – Fountain In Garden
St. Gilgen – Gabi and Ericka enjoying Lunch
St. Gilgen
St. Gilgen – Wolfgangsee
St. Gilgen – Gabi and Ericka by the Wolfgangsee
St. Gilgen – Town Hall
St. Gilgen – Town Center
After our initial disappointment with Hallstatt, we were glad we made the day-trip to see these two unexpected surprises in the Austrian countryside.
This last part, includes some of the additional things we were able to enjoy while in Venice, especially good places to dine. We found it takes about a week to get a really good feel for Venice. We also think it’s especially true that you have not really seen Venice until you have visited the other islands, as well as other out-of-the-way places around Venice proper.
Other Interesting Sights
For those that love architecture you will want to see the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, Corte Contarina in San Marco. A bit of a challeng to find, but when you get close enough, there are signs pointing the way. They of course use Scala not Palazzo, for stairs, so do not let that confuse you!
Sign to Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, del Bovolo
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, del Bovolo, Corte Contarina
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, del Bovolo, Corte Contarina
Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, del Bovolo, Corte Contarina
Another great sight is the tiniest alleyway in Venice. Called Calle Varisco, or sometimes Calletta Varisco (incorrectly mind you). It is a fairly narrow passage that goes nowhere, or more precisely, a canal of all things. But there are others in and around Venice, that are likewise very narrow, for example the Callede la Raffineria.
Calletta Varisco
Calle de la Raffineria
Calle de la Raffineria
There are also several impressive 24-hour clocks that are in and around Venice. Though not terribly easy to find, with some research and a flexible itinerary, they make wonderful sights to see.
Restaurants
We ate at many good and one fine restaurants while in Venice, here is our take on each.
Bistrot de Venise
Probably some of the finest dining in Venice, the Bistrot de Venise has a menu and winelist that rate high on our list. A bit pricey, but if you can afford it and go with the flow, that is, let them do their job, you will not be disappointed.
Bistrot de Venise
Bistrot de Venise – Erick
Bistrot de Venise – Patti
Bistrot de Venise – Patti’s Umbrine
Bistrot de Venise – Erick’s Duck
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia
Another jewel in the crown of Venice is the Ristorante Antica Sacrestia. Rather humble from the outside, the inside is a nice little courtyard with stone, well shaded from the midday sun. Perfect for the lunchtime replenishment.
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia Wine Label
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia Courtyard
Ristorante Antica Sacrestia Courtyard With Awards
Osteria la Zucca
Osteria la Zucca con Cucina is a very nice place for true Venetian cuisine. If you are looking for some home-cooked Italian food, this is you place. I can speak from experience, the Mousakka is great, as is the house wine.
Osteria la Zucca
Osteria la Zucca – Patti Waiting For Lunch
Osteria la Zucca – My Mousakka
Osteria la Zucca
Ristorante Rosa Rossa
Ristorante Rosa Rossa on Calle de la Mandola, is a restaurant and pizzeria and is great for families, small gatherings and couples, with plenty of outside seating. Their pizza is delicious and large enough for two to share, when accompanied with salad and drinks.
Ristorante Rosa Rossa – Inside
Ristorante Rosa Rossa – Erick
Cicchetti Arciccchetti Bakaro
Last but not least, if you are in Venice, you have to visit a cicchetti. While walking around, you might see signs about cicchetti this and cicchetti that, but it’s usually simple street food served at a bar. Normally, there is a selection which you may pick and choose from, along with assorted drinks that can be ordered at the same. We stopped here while just out for a long walk. The Deli bites were one for a Euro and drinks were as usual, pretty inexpensive.
Cicchetti Arciccchetti Bakaro
Cicchetti Arciccchetti Bakaro – Drinks And Deli Food
Conclusion
As opposed to our last whirlwind tour of Venice, this trip was a totally different and a more enjoyable experience. Not only the lack of tourists has helped my own opinion of Venice, but also the Summer heat has cooperated and our length of stay was what we would call minimal (one week). There is plenty to see for sure. If the factors are conducive and you are able to spend more than a week, I would, just to get a better overall feel for Venice. However, the amount of tourism they let come back, will dictate whether or not Venice will feel like a place you would want to stay longer than a week. That remains to be seen.
Our next stop takes us to Austria, so stay tuned for our adventures and insights there; until then, Ciao!
Arriving over the weekend with the expectation of finding few, if any tourist in Venice, we were pleasantly surprised. Apparently, we have beaten the rush to see some remarkable tourist spots, without all the international hords.
Venice Train Station – Platforms Empty
Hotel NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci
We chose this four star hotel for its location to the Grand Canal and a pier for the Vaporettos, or ferries, that connect all of the islands together. We were not disappointed, it definitely has all the access we were looking for along with other comforts, amenities and conveniences we wanted, plus it’s very quiet.
NH Collection Venezia Palazzo Barocci
Patti enjoying the evening
Our balcony
Our balcony
Piazza San Marco
Usually abuzz with activity, this square or piazza is usually crowded during this time of year, with countless tourists. We have been fortunate to be here at this time, while the rest of the world struggles with how to cope with their outbreaks.
The view from the end of the island, just down from Santa Maria, is amazing.
Panoramic View of Part of the Grand Canal and Piazza San Marco
Caffè Florian
Established in 1720, Cafe Florian is arguably the oldest cafe in the world. It was amazing to sit and enjoy a drink in an establishment, that frankly is older than my own country.
Patti in Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian’s ceilings and walls
Erick in Caffè Florian
Pastor Saverio Le Forcole
The old art of carving and developing individual forcole for Venetian gondola rowers goes way back and is passed down from master to apprentice after a lengthy teaching process. Pastor Saverio is one of four masters still performing his art on the island.
The Store Front
Inside the workshop
Inside the workshop – other items done by other craftsmen
Inside the workshop – other items done by other craftsmen
Forcole – you can purchase them
The Store Front
The waterway by the store
If you are ever in Venice you should look him up. He speaks English and is willing to talk to anyone who has questions about his art and how it is used. You can probably spend hours doing just that, but he does have to work, so keep that in mind.
Okay, enough for now, we are here for the entire week and will probably post more once we get a few moments of down time. Next stops are the other islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello.
As can be imagined, there are many restaurants in Rapallo with many different cuisines, the main ones featuring typical Ligurian dishes. Here is a brief synopsis of some of the restaurants we enjoyed during our stay.
Trattoria Da Dede
The front of this restaurant is nothing actually to look at, but as is often the case in Italy, looks can be deceiving and for our first lunch here it proved to be true.
The Storefront – I know, nothing to look at, right?
The Mom and Pop look and feel
Trattoria Da Dede is an inconspicuous store on a back street called via Santa Benedetto with no real call to fame. They serve everyday, workerman food here, the kind momma cooks for a very good price. While there, we were the only non-local; most of the clientele were on their lunch break. Ordering is easy, select any one of four main dishes the restaurant offers for lunch and wash it down with water and a caffe and you are all done. Eat like a Ligurian, stop here and enjoy the food!
Ristorante Pechino
Pining for something less Italian and more cosmopolitan, it was time for our Chinese food break. Restaurant Pechino on the Lungomare Vittorio Veneto fit the bill nicely. Ordering our usual Spring Rolls, Wonton Soup, Rice with Vegetables, Chicken with Vegetables or whatever else we might see, it was out and served with a smile.
Take Out Or Eat In
The Interior
La Trattoria
Along the via Montebello, sits La Trattoria with an almost invisible store front. In fact, if you weren’t actually looking for it with purpose, like Patti and I, you probably would miss it.
La Trattoria has an amazing menu and the chef apparently to back it up. You will find unusual and eclectic Ligurian tastes here, as well as a very good wine and dessert selection.
Ravioli alla Ragu
Stuffed Pasta in Walnut Sauce
Antipasti – All Sorts
Strawberry Torte
La Boccia Ristorante
An enoteca (wine bar) and restaurant, La Boccia Tuscany Wine & Food provides ample sustinence with an amazing wine list. Located on via Venezia, you can select any wine for under 25€, have the bottle uncorked and taste the wine, while only paying by the glass. The fare, as I have already suggested is rather ordinary, but the wines and aperitivi are first rate. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed every tasty minute.
Simple Salumi Panini with Wine
V54 Sambuca – Just a bit special
Patti, our official Sambuca Connoisseur and Taster – V54 is good!
Of course we ate at other places, but none of those felt as exceptional as the ones above. If you are ever in Rapallo, we hope you will take the opportunity to visit one. Until then, ciao for now..!
For the curious, and approximately a two kilometer walk from the heart of Moneglia, is the small hamlet or cluster of homes called Lemeglio. This tiny little place provides yet another wonderful, bird’s eye view of the town and coastline below, albeit from the opposite direction as before.
The View Of Moneglia And Its Bay From Lemeglia
Getting There
There are several way to get to Lemeglio from Moneglia, but taking a car or the bus service (which of course is provided because of the locals), would probably not be worth it, since there is so little to see along the way or in Lemeglia. There is very little to no parking and turning around looked like a nightmare to us. We chose to hike, using the well marked trail that the area has provided and made a short morning of it.
Leaving Moneglia
After a quick breakfast, we headed out along the via Vittorio Emanuele going South. Taking a few turns through town here and there and crossing the stream, we left town and quickly found the trailhead.
The Map Of The Trails
The Red Square – Lemeglia
From here the paved path and stairs ascend rapidly, lines on one side with the railroad tracks to start and a fence on the other.
The Start Of Our Climb – A Good View Of The Rail System
The rest of the trip is just a series of the same, stairs interspersed with walking on roadway, until you get up to Lemeglio itself and the overlook it provides.
Olive Tree Groves Line The Roadways
Moneglia Bay – An Overlook
Moneglia Bay
The Church – Our Destination
Patti Hiking The Trail
Looks Pretty Steep To Me
The Church Steeple From Afar
Moneglia Bay
The Coastline
Moneglia – Another View
Chiesa Santa Maria Assunta
The church sits atop this hill surrounded by a small cluster of houses, some well maintained, others less so. It is a church built in the typical style for Liguria, both in shape and use of stone. There is what appears to be a small, abandoned building just to its left that is decorated with a statue of the Holy Mary. If you are tall enough to look inside, you will notice a very old olive press that is falling apart. Perhaps it is where the locals used to come to press their olives each harvest season?
Santa Maria Assunta
Holy Mary – Building With Olive Press
Pavement With Small Stones
Below is the last photograph you can enjoy for this spot, from here the trail ascends even more, into the trees and then over the ridge. It would be the natural route to take if one were headed South and to Cinque Terre.
The Ligurian Sea
The trip down is somewhat faster and less eventfull, but we were happy we took the time to explore above Moneglia once again. If only just to get out and stretch the legs and breathe in fresh air without a mask!
Ristorante Nenne
This small, innocuous little restaurant can be passed by anyone walking on the via Vittorio Emanuele easily without notice, especially if they are not paying attention. Nenne is without a doubt, an actual hole in the wall. And though it has not been in business long, it has a great seafood menu and very good prices.
Patti’s Gnocci With Porchini Mushroom Sauce
The Eclectic Interior
Erick’s Swordfish – Red Sauce With Olices
Erick’s Spaghetti And Clams – Yes Again!
A View From Inside Looking Out
The Eclectic Interior
The Eclectic Interior
So ends yet another day in the small, coastal town of Moneglia. I hope you enjoyed this entry, tomorrow more and our adventure to Chiavari.
Having the benefit of staying in such a small town for a little more than a week, gives one the flexibility of being bored and looking for things to do. Of course I say this from the perspective of retirement and our slow travel mentality, where it’s all about kicking back, taking it easy and having the time to actually get to know a place, instead of driving through it to claim, “I was there!”
The Lungomare Dante Alighieri – Moneglia
The Leisurely Stroll
An often overlooked, under-used method of relaxation, that I might add is rarely used in the States, is the stroll. In fact, the lack of use of this word in the common venacular there, or everyday speech, testifies to the American’s reluctance to actually taking one. Americans are often too busy and too self-absorbed to consider a nice, long, uncomplicated relaxing walk. If you stay long enough in Moneglia, or probably any city or coastal town in Italy, you should take one of these, they can be mind clearing experiences. The Germans have an excellent word for it, schlendern, to stroll or amble and when correctly pronounced, actually sounds relaxing. The Italians however, probably invented it with their passeggiata, which actually means a bit more, but is still actively practiced today.
Our stroll along the Lungomare was relaxing in the extreme. The surf, which was fairly rough at the time, was pounding the coast. Where the beach was lined with stones, one could hear the strange and unusual sound of the rocks clacking against one another as the water washed over them and drew them back toward the sea. Add to that the perfect temperature, somewhere in the low seventies, and a stiff breeze, and you have all the ingredients for a great walk.
The Tower Of Villafranche
Along the Lungomare is the Tower or Fortress of Villafranche, or what is called today the Parco Castello di Villafranca, a broken down remnant of an old fort that is no longer used nor kept up. It has signs that it had been taken cared for until recently. Now it just appears to be a memory destined to fall back into the hillside from which it arose.
The Tower Of The Fort
Interesting Mineral Accumulations
The Beautiful Coastline
The Path Upon Entering
A View From A Remaining Parapet
Another Look At The Coast
The Coast
Moneglia And The Church Tower Of Santa Croce
View From Above Of Jetties
Patti On The Path To The Park
The Jetties That Protect The Beach
Looking Back Toward Moneglia
An Escape When It Rains
Fortress Remains You Cannot Reach
There are still some interesting things inside to see, nooks and crannies, here and there. The outside is more or less a maze of unmaintained stairs and paths. A good place for a relaxing picnic lunch, to read a book or just relax and unwind; there are some benches where one can sit and enjoy the sound of the waves and the horizon.
Ristorante Bistrot Julia
The restaurant Bistrot Julia is a small, unassuming place that is not much on menu, but definitely big on taste. This place, during normal times, would be crowded, so get reservations if you are planning a visit, we just happen to be fortunate enough to enjoy it in a more relaxed state.
Bistrot Julia – Outside
Bistrot Julia – Inside
Patti Having A Good Time
Erick Waiting For Steak
Based on a rating we found to be rather high on the internet, we decided to give it a try. Having not had a very good steak in a while, we were both surprised to find a Tomahawk Steak for two on the menu. It took some discussion with our waitress and all of two seconds to make up my mind what I wanted to order. After a very short negotiation with Patti, our wine and steak were ordered.
Bacalla Appetizer
Our Tomahawk – Cooked And Cut
Chocolate Cake With Raspberry Sauce
Needless to say, when a chef does not give you a choice on how you want your meat cooked and it comes out looking like this, you know you are in for a good meal. Paired with a very good local Nebbiolo, the steak and potatoes went down with very little argument. Our appetizers were Baccala on crushed vinegared olives, also very good. We would both highly recommend a stop at Bistrot Julia, if you are ever in Moneglia. First rate food at a fairly good price. They also will dispense wine from any unopened bottle of wine they have, as long as it’s under 24€. A fine enticement to get you to try new wines not necessarily served by the glass and you only pay for what you drink. With our steak, priced at 6€/hg (hectogram), and coming in around one kilo we walked out with a 97€ bill. Some might say that a bit steep, but I have paid far more in the States for steak and dinners for two as a whole and they were no where near as good. Enjoy!
We have a saying in our country, though no longer often heeded by some of our leaders, of taking the high path or road. In the comune of Moneglia you can actually do this, though not figuratively speaking; but by actually lacing up your hiking shoes and climbing the hills that gird this fine town. Not only will you feel better than those that don’t take the high road, you will also have a better view!
XX And -. Our Chosen Paths
Planning And The Initial Ascent
Before any ascent, a quick visit to the local tourist information center should be your first stop. There they can inform you on the best way to enter the maze of paths and hiking trails that criss-cross the hills and country-side above the town; they can also offer you a handy map for your initial planning and your pocket along the way.
Initially Seems Easy Enough
To find the entry point to the Northwest you can more or less follow via Caveri that takes you to the train station, then a short way on via Ammiraglio Bollo. On the left hand side of that road, there will be a concrete staircase that ascends from the sidewalk. A little further walk from there will bring you to the sign shown above. Again, it is best by now to have a very good idea of where you are headed, since not all signs along the way are as clear as the one above. However, the trails are well marked with the indicators assigned to them, so as long as you know where you are headed, you should have no difficulties.
The Dash-Dot And Double-X Routes
Initial Walkways
The initial ascent has some stairs and long, inclined walkways that are fairly easy to navigate. After this, the ascent only gets steeper, though it is all on pavement and semi-improved roadway. It’s not too long before you notice that you are making real progress getting above the town.
A View Of The Bay At The Very Start
Hiking The Cresta Di Comunaglia
After this, you make a quick turn off the pavement and into what looks to most as a gully. It almost looks like something you shouldn’t hike.
Erick On The Steep Roadway
The Streambed Entry
Once the path turns off the roadway it is rather steep and a bit treacherous. Though you could use sneakers, hiking shoes are strongly advised. The path when it starts out is essentially a stream bed that probably gets full rather quickly during heavy thunderstorms and downpours.
Trail Marker
Patti On The Path
After some time, and about two to three hundred meters of elevation, the path levels out somewhat. It is still important to pay close attention, there are many hazards, loose rocks and roots along the path.
Overlook of Moneglia
Overlook of Moneglia Bay
Hiking Path Signs
The Old Hiking Path Signs
Ligurian Sea
Ligurian Sea
Moneglia Bay
Ligurian Sea
Moneglia Bay
Walking along the Crest of Comunaglia is far less difficult than the climb. There are a few areas where you must mind yourself, falling would prove very problematic. However, the views along the crest path are well worth the time and effort. To get to this point, it took us about one hour of good hiking, while drinking plenty of water every fifteen minutes or so. It was in the high seventies and we brought 75cl of water for each us, which was just about enough. I would recommend, if it is in the eighties or ninties, bring MORE, do not dehydrate, there is nothing around for you to get more!
The entire hike took us a little over two hours, up and back. We had to pace ourselves somewhat, since sitting in Turin for three months has not improved our stamina at all. But if you are into hiking there are tons of trails around, you can even trek from one town to the next. Just plan for the weather and bring plenty of water.
Piccolo Hotel Restaurant
The restaurant of the Piccolo hotel is very nice and due to the current restrictions and low attendance here, we were very well served. Good thing too, after a good day hiking, we were both starving.
A Good Vino Rosso – Montalcino – Brizio
Erick’s Spaghetti alla Vongole
Erick’s Cima alla Genovese
Patti’s Polpo Arrosto
Creme Brulee
Caffe and Sambuca
The traditional spaghetti in clam sauce is always a hit with me, served with Piccadilly tomatoes, clams and oil, it is a great starter. I also ordered the Cima alla Genovese, which is made with peas, ceci beans and other vegetables, along with a hard boiled egg, rolled in thinly pounded veal. It must be refrigerated, sliced and served cold. It was not only unusual, but along with slightly vinegared carrots, surprisingly good; a very Genovese dish. Patti had grilled Octopus with a cream made from garbanzo beans (ceci in Italy). I tasted that too and it was amazing. Taking into account the quality of the food and service, a very good restaurant. The end to a great day in Moneglia. Until next time, ciao!
Another day in London and more to see. Before we left, our daughter Meagan purchased the 3-day London Pass. The pass is a bit pricey, but gets you into loads of Museums, Memorials, Churches and many other places. This includes, the Churchill War Rooms, HMS Belfast, the Shard, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and many others. So we thought it might be a good buy.
Churchill War Rooms
If you have any interest at all how the British and their Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, survived and ultimately helped win the war, then you have to see his war rooms.
The Pin Map of Europe
As can be imagined, London itself is teaming with memorials from all of its wars. This one however is amazing, because it impresses upon the visited some of the effort, at the highest levels, it took to fight a war on a global scale.
The Pin Map of Europe
One of several Southeast Asian Maps
England was not only fighting the Germans, but also the Japanese, who invaded their southeast Asian colonies as well.
Churchill’s Direct Line with the White House
During those times both England and America saw the need for direct communications and arrange a phone system to stretch completely across the Atlantic Ocean. A feat we take for granted today.
The War Rooms are full of interactive venues where you can take your time to read, explore and learn about the man who took England through one of the most dangerous and dark times in its history.
The HMS Belfast
HMS Belfast
As promised in my earlier post, we did indeed have the occasion to board the HMS Belfast. Again, it’s part of the London Pass and allows you to roam a WWII era British Cruiser.
Since we have already discussed the ship in Part One, we give you a slide show of the ship as you can explore and see it.
And if you are looking for enemies, well I imagine this baby can still find ’em..! [Joke: it’s only a prop]
Eating
If you are ever in London and looking for a place to eat, there are of course as you can imagine, thousands to choose from. We have eaten at the following restaurants and can recommend them all highly.
The Wolseley
We had a brunch here and the atmosphere, perhaps a take on old empire England with Oriental panels, was unique.
The food was everything, from the usual simple English breakfast fare, to the more exotic dishes with fish, animal organs, etc. However, they have bacon and eggs and their egg omelets are great too!
Meagan and Jason
Patti and Erick
The Hawksmoor Seven Dials
I have no idea how they derived this name, so do not ask. However, if you are looking for a good steak, this is the place to go, a carnivores heaven.
The food prices here are, as expected, a bit on the high side, but not as high as some of the wine. There are only a few entries in the wine list under 50£. For example, the Chateau de Beaucastel above, went for 165£. So bring your plastic, or plenty of cash.
The Ivy
This is perhaps my favorite. A cozy place that serves several different and interesting kinds of fare, backed up by a reasonably priced wine list.
The atmosphere here is just great, since the architecture of the building is a triangle; there are stained glass windows all around you. The bar is the centerpiece and very well done, surrounded by tables with small lamps on them, reminiscent of something out of a by-gone era. Highly recommended!
Occasionally, you come across a restaurant, caffe or bar which just hits all the buttons correctly. For us this occurred last evening at Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini.
I don’t want to call this place a hole in the wall, but that is the first impression a foreigner, an American, will have. All in all it might measure twenty by thirty feet inside, sixty or seventy square feet maximum, including the bar. But, the food is unmatched by other restaurants much larger in size. So, either there is a huge kitchen somewhere we could not see, or the chef is a magician.
To be honest, there is an outdoor patio in the back where they are able to seat perhaps another forty or so guests. We were fortunate this evening to get our own table inside next to the door and near the bar, to watch all the comings and goings (people watching is an acceptable hobby in Italy.)
A Piola Menu
As can be seen by the rather large display above, the menu is displayed on the wall. This is typical for a Piola, a Torinese-style restaurant that has daily offers of food at reasonable prices (or in Italian, a termine piemontese dal significato di osteria, bar).
Tagliere of Salumi and Formaggi, along with other great stuff to eat
For our dinner we selected the Salami and Cheese plate for two. To accompany this, we also ordered the vinegar roasted zucchini squash, roasted peppers and Polpette di Carni (or hot meatballs).
The meat tasted as one would expect, a nice selection of salami and prosciutto. The cheese selection was very good, especially the blue cheese which reminded us of a Stilton and the other whiter cheese above which reminded us of a sharp white cheddar.
Nizza, San Luigi, 2015 – DOCG
The meatballs and zucchini were to die for. It was actually difficult to tell what kind of meat, were in the meatballs (and frankly we were afraid to ask since horsemeat is an acceptable meat in Italy.) But, the spices and the particular way in which they were cooked (it looked like deep-frying but not sure it was), was very tasty. The squash on the other hand was served cold, but the vinegar gave it such a pop in your mouth, you wanted to order more.
The Wine
This specific place also sports a rather nice wine list. Since we were looking for something red to pair with the meatballs, salami and cheese, we went with a nice Barbera. The Nizza from San Luigi, 2015 was an excellent choice. Dry and aromatic with fruity overtones of cherry, it combined very nicely with our meal. A wine which is sure on my short list of choices when I visit my local wine store in the future!
Erick relaxing prior to eating
Patti enjoying the wine
In Conclusion
Though it was our evening out to celebrate our 37th anniversary, we had expected to spend a bit more. So, when the bill came and it came to a total of 37€, we were delightfully surprised. Not only because we thought it so inexpensive, but that we got such good food and atmosphere at such an affordable and reasonable price.
The bar at Caffe Vivi Emilio Ranzini
We are sure the menu changes often, weekly at least, perhaps even daily. Our plans are to go back for lunch. One word of caution. They do have Summer hours (9:30-2:30, 5:30-8:30) starting in June, which are reduced from the hours posted on Google. However, we would recommend this place for either lunch or dinner and it’s just two blocks off of via Garibaldi!
Since Turin is a city, there are no shortage of grocery stores. We’ve been here for several months now and have discovered stores that satisfy all of our needs and wants. When we first moved here, we just frequented the regular grocery stores, as we had too many other important issues to handle. But, now that we have more time, we have set out to discover all the ‘Mom & Pop’ shops.
Our nearest large grocery store is Lidl – a 10 minute walk. It is a German grocery chain, however, here it has mostly Italian products. (We had a Lidl in North Raleigh that had both American and German products). Here, as in the States, it carries mostly off-brand products with only a few brand-name ones. We found their produce to be very good, as most are grown locally or within other regions of Italy. Here in Italy, unlike the States, vegetables are seasonal. Certain produce are not year-round, with the exception of imported red peppers from Spain. Prices are quite low, even on brand-name items. We usually buy our paper products, olive oil (our favorite is Molini brand), milk, butter, and eggs at Lidl. We have also purchased chicken and sausage and found it to be very good.
Animal products, in general, are all raised in Italy. No matter if you shop in a grocery store or at the Farmer’s Market, everything is weighed, including iceberg lettuce and celery. Items are typically not sold as ‘a head’. You also have to wear plastic gloves to handle the produce. You weigh the produce, and place the price tag label on it, not the cashier. Though there are still exceptions where the cashier weighs it.
There is a HUGE grocery chain store called IperCoopthat we had discovered while staying in the AirBnb. Now that we have moved to our long-term apartment, it is quite a distance away. We now have to walk and take a tram to get there, which takes approx. 50 minutes roundtrip. We do go once in a while, as we find their prices to be competitive. When I say HUGE, it is big, even by US standards. It is like a Super Walmart or Super Target. It has a pharmacy, electronics, and gardening section, besides the usual bakery and butcher. Their produce is great – Farmer’s Market fresh. I wish it were closer, as it would be our go-to grocery store. I am going to digress here a little bit – the IperCoop reminds me a lot of when I was growing up and I would go shopping with my Mom to Shop-Rite in Hudson. Hudson had a large Italian-American population, so we were able to buy items in-store, that we were never able to find once we moved to North Carolina. Of course, in Italy, we see these very same items that aren’t in your average American grocery store. Yes, we’ve eaten them all!
Calf’s Tongue and Pig’s Feet in IperCoop – With a Glimpse of Tripe to the Right 🙂
There are also numerous mini-markets throughout the city, equipped with meat, produce, etc. – just on a smaller scale than a regular grocery store. We don’t purposely go to them, but when we are out and happen to see one, we stop in to see if there is anything we may need or what they are offering.
Our all-time favorite is the outdoor Farmer’s Market. Our closest one is about a 15 minute walk in the San Salvario area of Turin on Via Madama Cristina. It is open every day, except Sunday. (Stores are closed on Sunday, except for Lidl). There are many Farmer’s Markets throughout the city. This happens to be our closest one and it is big enough to have everything we need. Besides produce vendors, there are cheese, meat, bakery, fish and flower vendors. Everything is grown locally in the countryside outside of Turin. The vendors bring their produce of the day and it is all so fresh! My favorite so far are Piccadilly Tomatoes. They have the most intense fresh-from-the-garden taste! It is more of an effort to shop at the Farmer’s Market, due to having to speak (a bit in) Italian! Remember, no pounds here! Everything is in kilograms, (2.2 pounds= 1 kilogram). You are not allowed to touch the items. You have to tell the vendor which one you want, or how much. If you touch produce, you will get yelled at. Ask me how I know 🙂
Farmer’s Market on Via Madama CristinaPiccadilly Tomatoes – YUM!!Squash with Flower Blossoms, Onions, Tomatoes, Fresh Mozzarella, Fresh Pasta, Celery and Radishes
Squash flower blossoms are one of my favorites. Again, my Mom used to make them. Of course these are seasonal, as the squash are picked very early. The squash are so tender and the blossoms are delicious. Erick had them for the first time and enjoyed them too. We also purchased fresh Agnolotti pasta – a Piemontese specialty. They can be stuffed with a variety of fillings, including horsemeat, beef, rabbit, pork or veal with spinach. I didn’t ask the vendor what filling was in the ones I purchased; maybe I should have, but it was delicious anyway!
Patti shopping for fresh Agnolotti – The lady to my right told me that I needed to pick a number. Hey, I’m only trying to look right now! LOL I guess she thought I might cut in front of her. Erick joked about how we all must be related, due to how short we all are. Wise guy!Fried Squash Flower Blossoms – SOOO delicious!Just a common bunch of broccoli and garlic
After we leave the Farmer’s Market, we usually head to the bakery nearby. Who doesn’t love the smell of freshly baked bread? We go to Panificio Ficini Valter on Via Claudio Luigi Berthollet. Everything is weighed in Italy and I mean EVERYTHING. You don’t pay for one loaf of bread – instead it is weighed. I don’t have pictures of bread. I guess it gets eaten up too quickly. For a large ciabatta, you will only pay about €1.20 (approx $1.34). Even in Lidl, they bake bread and it is super cheap and delicious. For a baguette, you will get charged €.39 (approx $.44). Bread shops here also make slices of pizza and panini. It is all so delicious. Another bakery we go to, which is a 10 minute walk from home is Perino Vesco on Via Cavour. They are all amazing!
Next stop is the butcher. Erick and I are not huge meat-eaters, however the meat is so lean and fresh here, that we always want to buy something. Chicken breasts are truly a deep yellow color. All the beef is so lean and tender. Of course, they will cut everything to order. We go to the one closest to the Farmer’s Market – it doesn’t have a name. It literally just says “Macelleria” on the outside sign. Right now, I can’t even think what street it is on. There are butcher shops closer to our apartment, so I’m sure we will visit some others soon. They are all so crowded (including the bread shops) that it is difficult to take photos and I don’t want to get yelled at 🙂
Beef Flank Stuffed with Seasoned Ground Beef – It was delicious! Meat is the most expensive item here. But, 5.35 euros is still a deal!
Now to talk about foods that we are used to buying in the US – I cook a lot of Italian-American food, but there comes a time we want something different. We were in Conad (another grocery store that we really like) one day when Erick spotted some fixins to make Tacos! That is one thing I like about living in a city in Italy – better access to other ethnic foods that you wouldn’t ordinarily find in smaller towns. Lidl from time to time will do an “American” week or “Mexican” week, but since we’ve been here, have not seen it. Well, we didn’t have to wait for “American” week! Conad has taco soft shells, and salsa ALL the time! No brand-name items but they tasted just as good. There was no taco seasoning, but we substituted chili seasoning instead – it worked!
Taco fixin’ – all was pretty inexpensive. Imported from Sweden!
Another food item that is difficult to find here are pierogies. They are a great alternative to potatoes, rice and noodles. Thankfully for Google, I found a grocery store called Mix Markt. This time a 20 minute walk took us to this (Eastern)European/Middle Eastern/Russian market. It had items of course that we had never seen before nor could identify! 🙂 We found potato pierogies from Austria – Bingo! The highlight of this grocery store were these cans of fish or should I say cans of crap! 🙂
Cans of Crap in Tomato Sauce or Spicy Hot! For 10 Euro Cents More You Can Get Filet of Crap! Take Your Pick!
We believe this is Carp (misspelled) in a can – goldfish? Who knows? Imported from Portugal. Either way, Crap or Carp, no thank you!
