Needing to get out of Naples, if only for a day, we took the train south to Salerno in discovery of yet another ancient city along the Italian Mediterranean Sea. A short train ride of only a half an hour puts you there, three blocks in from from its coastal port and jetties that border the bright blue Tyrrhenian Sea.
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
Waterfront – Salerno, Italy
The City – Salerno, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Salerno, Italy
Train Station – Salerno, Italy
Lungomare – Salerno, Italy
We spent a leisurely Monday walking the streets of this nicely kept secret. It is definitely not a tourist destination and you will see few if any here, those preferring Capri, Almalfi Coast and other must-see places on someone else’s list.
Benedictine Aqueducts
The city has one of the most impressive examples of the architecture of the Ogival Arch, which in the ninth century was innovative and rare. It was so uncommon, that superstition around the arches and their use built up over the years, to the point where the town’s people were convinced it was the work of the devil, or at the very least, demons from hell. In any case, the aqueducts were built by and supplied water to the local Benedictine Monastery, and later to a convent in Piantanova.
Benedictine Aqueducts – Salerno, Italy
The Basilica of Salerno is not far from the aqueducts and the Benedictine Monastery. Its most striking feature is the tower, which was built in the Arab-Norman style. The palazzo inside contains a small fountain and its archways are reminiscent of the Florentine style.
Tower – Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Courtyard and Tower – Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
Basilica of Salerno – Salerno, Italy
A quintessential thing to do, is to walk along Salerno’s Lungomare Trieste and enjoy the beautiful weather and seaside. This exceptional boardwalk continues straight for about five miles and has numerous places to sit and relax among the beautiful palm trees that were planted there long ago.
Lungomare – Salerno, Italy
Restaurants
Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Perhaps one of the best places I have ever eaten. The Pasta Genovese here is absolutely to die for, I have found none better in Naples and the surrounding area, and I have tried many. The wine list is also very good and you will have no problem selecting a delicious local varietal that grows on the slopes of Vesuvius for your gastronomic pleasure.
Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Inside – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Patti at Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Erick at Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Insalata Mista – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Montevetrano, Colli di Salerno, 2008 – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Pasta Genovese – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Eggplant in Sauce – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Suckling Pig, Mashed Potatoes and Beets – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
Hazelnut Semifreddo – Taverna Santa Maria De Domno
The streets of Naples are full of food. There are not only the typical butchers, bakers and even soap makers, but also cafes, ristorantes and all sorts of other odd types of shops (to Americans anyways) selling what I would call contemporary traditional or ancient traditional goods. For example, there is a coffee shop on one street in the historic center that brews coffee using the old, slow drip process – the typical way before World War II (in fact you cannot buy espresso there).
Typical Green Grocer – Naples
Another Grocer – Naples
Fish Monger – Naples
If you are not particular to just meat or seafood, you can also go to the local Tripperia where you may purchase animal organs. In the Market District there are several places to choose from and they sell everything from Tripe, to Stomach and Intestines, to Brains and other blood organs. The Tripe and Stomach display at Fiorenzano’s (like others) was especially interesting, since it had dripping water in the case while the butcher was slicing away at the stomachs and other organs people were ordering.
Fiorenzano’s also has a Friggitoria just down the street, where locals come to purchase quickly fried items that are choosen from the display case. This includes everything from potato fritter like delicacies, to pizza, focaccia and other Neapolitan favorites.
Fiorenzano’s Friggitoria
For one day we had a splendid tour of the historic center of Naples with our tour guide Federica. It was a walking tour of the city center that included strategic stops along the way to sample some of Naples’ street food. Some were easier to carry than others and we found ourselves, at least once, stopping to sit at a table to handle some of the more larger entrees we were offered.
Cherry Tomatos and Mozzarella in a cup
In the historic streets of Naples you can walk the streets and find a store with a very common sign stating, “O’Sicchietiell e Muzzarell” in the Neapolitan language. Which is probably not far from the Italian for Ciliegini (shortened version of pomodoro ciliegini), or Cherry Tomatoes and Mozzarella. You may purchase a large or small cup, it comes with a small wooden fork, basilico and extra virgin olive oil and you can just eat them as you walk around.
Sorbillo’s Pizza Fritta
Sorbillo’s Pizza Fritta – They are quite large and very filling!
The famous Sorbillo’s Pizza has another store, which was founded in 1935, where you can purchase the traditional Pizza Fritta. This pizza is actually fried and not baked. It is made almost the same as traditional pizza up to the point – where they closed up all the sides, pinching them closed to ensure none of the ingredients can leak. Then they throw it in a very large frying pan with oil in it. It is served after it has turned a golden brown on brown piece of paper and can be sprinkled with salt or other spices. It is almost like a Calzone, but tastes completely different because of the frying process imparts a different taste to the dough. If you are a pizza lover, it is something you must try at least once.
Coppola’s Penetteria – Taralli
Another great thing to snack on, either while you walk or to bring home in a bag, are Taralli. At Coppola’s you will find these traditional biscuits along with other great treats. Taralli are made with lard, or fat, and are traditionally spiced with pepper. However, today almost all of the stores add almonds to the mix, in order to impart some extra flavor to this Neapolitan staple. Since they are a bit savory, but usually not salty, the pepper and almond comes through rather nicely.
Traditional Sfogliatell
Sfogliatella, it conjures up thoughts of heavenly gastronomic bliss. We end with this amazing pastry since most people probably are not aware that there are actually two different types. There is the Riccia, which everyone knows and loves with its characteristic million folds of dough (almost like Phyllo dough) which is hard and rather crunchy, with a center of Ricotta Cheese filling. Then there is the Frolla, which is almost the same, except it does not have all the folds in its dough, is softer and has more of a shiny appearance. Both are delicious and it usually comes down to personal preference on which one you like better.
Sfolgliate – Traditional Sfogliatelli
However, we must pause yet again, for most people are probably not aware that the original Sfogliatella did not have a Ricotta Cheese filling, but rather a blander and much easier to eat filling made of semolina dough and hazelnuts and/or almonds. At Sfolgliate you can find this traditional Sfogliatella made the way it was intended. It is, at this time, the only store in all of Naples that adheres to the old tradition. We tried the Riccia and must say, it was delicious!
That’s it for our food tour of historic Naples, hope you enjoyed it and learned something about the delicious food they have to offer but have not exported. I know, sad for us all, but definitely worth a try if you visit.
After a thorough introduction to Naples, we decided it was time to see some things we had shoved to one side until we got time.
Castle dell’Ovo
Castle dell’Ovo
Castel dell’Ovo, also known as The Egg or the Egg Castle is situated in the Bay of Naples. It used to be a small island, but was attached some time ago to make it more accessible. Entrance is free, even though you do have to schedule your attendance online. However, aside from the views, there truly is not much to see. It appears to have been reused for administration and other city or port related uses.
Hallway to art exhibit
Art exhibit
Along the parapets
Chiaia, Naples from the castle
Patti at the Castle
Vesuvius
The Bourbon Tunnels
There are tunnels, aqueducts and other underground features all throughout Naples. None has probably had more contemporary use than the Bourbon Tunnels, which were converted and used during World War II as bomb shelters and storage. There are two entrances to this underground museum, for scheduling reason we had to enter Vico del Grottone, the same street that our restaurant below for lunch was on, so very convenient.
Tickets for Two – Bourbon Tunnels
The following of our tour is provided uncaptioned, there is more information in the above internet link.
Patti descending
Patti
WW II electricity installlation
Restaurants
Trattoria da Ettore
This trattoria, as many others outside of the touristy areas, is an excellent little mom and pop restaurant. It has only six tables and when they are full for lunch, you are turned away (the same is true for dinner and probably for most restaurants in Italy, when they are full, they are full, so get there early). It is located on Vico del Grottone and it is figuratively speaking a hole in the wall.
It is possible to hike to the summit of Mount Vesuvius. For a modest fee you can put on your best walking of hiking shoes and climb to the summit from within a few hundred meters in elevation. On a clear day, it is totally worth it, not only for the views of Naples but also for that curious look at what might be going on inside the crater. Our guide Federica, from MindTheNap Tours, along with Pasquale our driver took us there for the day. She has excellent knowledge of the volcano, its history and all its eruptions, as well as other off beat information regarding the consecration of the volcano by the church.
The Climb
The ascent is not very rigorous, there are plenty of old people walking up and they do hand out walking sticks, if you are so inclined. Now, on to the slide show for which I have not captioned anything, since most should be self explanatory.
Patti and Federica walking behind me
Patti and Federica
Erick
Erick and Patti on top of Vesuvius
A few short videos while we were on the way up and at the summit. The audio is probably terrible, it was very windy and cold that day.
The trip up, around the crater wall and back down took us a little over an hour. But it can be completed faster, we just happened to take our time. The drive there on the other hand depends on traffic, which as you can imagine can be problematic in Naples.
Wineries
At the foot of Mount Vesuvius are many wineries, which grew certain types of varietals, aglianico, caprettone and piedrosso, that work well with the volcanic soils.
Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery Russo Family
After our ascent up the mountain we spent a few hours in the afternoon having a tour, wine tasting and lunch at the Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery of the Russo Family. We tasted the following before and during our lunch.
– Rosè Sparkling Wine (100% aglianico grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOP (100% caprettone grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Rosato DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Riserva (80% piedirosso e 20% aglianico grapes)
Chiaia, Naples – The Bay of Naples – 10th of October, 2021
Naples is without a doubt a very large and a very old city. Born sometime in the 10th century BCE it was established officially by the Greeks. Later it became its own Kingdom and later one of the two Kingdoms of Sicily. There is no doubt that the language is very different from Italian. When a native Neapolitan speaks, it is impossible to find any similarities with the language of the country that they currently belong. In fact, upon exiting our taxi on arrival to our hotel, I actually brought this up with the driver, who quickly turned to me and said, “Sir, we do not speak Italian, but rather Napoletano.”
Chiaia, Naples – View from our Hotel Room – 10th of October, 2021
It is without a doubt, that after a few days of arriving in Naples, I can say that this city has true grit. Probably nowhere else in Italy, or in the world for that matter, can one find such excellent food among so much chaos. Having lived in Turin and having spent much time in Rome and other parts of Italy, this town exemplifies the Neapolitan spirit. A crazy mixture of life, business, personal matters and conversation, and eating, always eating. It appears their entire life and lifestyle is dedicated to consuming delicious food. Having sampled enough of it I can say it is truly unique and delicious.
First Impressions
Chiaia, and all of Naples for that matter, is a complex mixture of no rules, hidden rules, chaos and a profound charm that is impossible to put your finger on, but unmistakably Neapolitan through and through.
Naples At Night – Via Giovanni Bausan – 9th of October, 2021
It is without a doubt that many from the United States, probably depending upon from where they are from, would be off put by some of the conditions. However, one must always keep in mind it is never easy trying to combine old and new, whether they be traditions, living style or just overall conditions.
Chiaia, Naples – Vico Santa Maria in Portico – 10th of October, 2021
The city for the most part could be cleaner, but I have found it cleaner than I had thought it was going to be. And having heard about the issues they are having with garbage removal, it goes without saying, it is definitely a problem in search of a real solution. With the exception of the Spanish Quarter and some other high traffic areas, where tourists frequent, I have found that the Neapolitans, for the most part, try to keep things orderly and clean.
Chiaia, Naples – Patti – 10th of October, 2021
The city could also be better organized, but until the forces that control much of what the people here are affected by most have been tamed and come to agreement, that will probably not happen. I often wonder how the native Neapolitan can stand to have some of the building projects around them to be delayed for more than a decade; where the companies have taken advantage of the cordons that they use to store other materials aside from those for the actual project. And yet just down the road, a Restorer will be working on a massive archaeological project with a Dremel tool, being careful at all costs not to remove too much of the dirt from the huge building they are working on and almost totally unnoticed. They appear to be both appreciated and stymied by their own history.
World War 1 Monunment
Altarini – Common Catholic Temple or Altar – Seen throughout Naples
Narrow Streets of Naples
Boy Fishing
Restaurants
La Riviera Di Parthenope
As part of our culinary excursion of Naples and Chiaia, we made reservations and ate La Riviera di Parthenope on our first evening. It was a delightful restaurant and our waiter, and perhaps owner (since he made several references that his wife was the cook), spoke English very well, so nothing was lost in translation on our behalf.
We had a braised octopus appetizer over mashed potatoes, and for my main dish, I ordered the smoked red tuna. These were paired with an excellent white wine from the region. The service was excellent and I would go back any time, but frankly, there are just too many other good places to try!
Officine Bistrot
A small and modern restaurant that serves absolutely amazing food. The cook starts with a croquette served with a spiced mayonnaise sauce that sets the tone. Then we had an appetizer of fried squash flowers, a potato croquette and a portion of eggplant parmigiana which was to die for. My main meal was wild boar in a bread sauce reduction and served with salad greens dressed in an infused olive oil which were both just amazing. As for the dessert, what can a say, they were both delicious. The food alone is worth a visit.
Wild Boar Chops in a Bread Reduction, Salad Greens with Infused Olive Oil – Officine Bistrot
Stuffed Pork with Escarole and Apples, Salad Greens with Infused Olive Oil – Officine Bistrot
Lemon Tart – Officine Bistrot
Melted Chocolate on a Chocolate Ball – Officine Bistrot
I would normally take points away for this, but the food was just so good I cannot do it. The red wine by the glass was showing its age (too long opened and sitting in the bottle). I also ordered a Sambuca which had almost turned to alcohol sitting on the shelf, it had lost all hint of anise. I am chalking both of these up to the affects of the pandemic and not being able to move the products, but that’s a guess. For a memorable experience I would suggest ordering a bottle of wine just to be sure and perhaps stick with Grappa.
On our return trip from Romania, we took a few days from the 22nd to the 24th of September, to stay in Milan with our sons. The point was to relax a bit, before they took their return flight from Malpensa Airport back to the States, and to see a few of the sights. We were lucky enough this time to have had the luxury of purchasing tickets. That is, within six months of their use, in order to visit Da Vinci’s Last Supper and Crucifixion, two works by him that are the most difficult to see. Luckily, few people for various reasons are able to travel or visit these works now, making access to them more readily available. So we jumped at that chance when we saw tickets were in fact available.
Milan – Museum Cenacolo Vinciano – Tickets For Two
I am not going to comment on Da Vinci’s work, but let his masterpieces speak for themselves.
Hotel Manzoni
Located in Milan’s Quadrilatero Della Moda section, this four star hotel can be found on Via Santo Spirito. Both outside and inside are quite compact and very well kept. There is a bellman to help with luggage and front desk that is occupied around the clock.
Milan – Hotel Manzoni
Our rooms were suites and rather spacious for being in the historic part of Milan. Most floors are decorated in marble with tastefully chosen chandeliers, some of which are from Murano.
Milan – Hotel Manzoni – Floors
Milan – Hotel Manzoni – Lobby
Museum Cenacolo Vinciano
The museum is located in Piazza di Santa Marie della Grazie and contains the works of Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper and Crucifixion.
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper and Crucifixion – Viewing Area
Da Vinci’s Last Supper
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper
Da Vinci’s The Last Supper – Original Shot
Da Vinci’s Crucifixion
Da Vinci’s Last Supper
Da Vinci’s Last Supper – Details
Legend:
Christ
Tito
Dimaco
St. Vincent Ferrer
Ludovico il Moro
St. Peter Martyr
Virgin Mary
St. Dominic
Mary Magdalene
St. Thomas Aquinas
St. John
St. Catherin of Siena
Beatrice d’Este
St. Maragaret of Hungary
Restaurants
Near Hotel Manzoni are several very good restaurants, as is per usual in most Quadrilateral sections of Italian cities. Since we did not have a lot of time to spend in Milan, the below two were identified and chosen based on customer reviews and not necessarily the most common ones used on the internet. Anyone visiting should expect the prices to reflect the food and the historic area they are in. Complaining about prices, when you probably should be eating street pizza, is just a waste of your time and money.
Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone
Though it receives only a mid four star rating on one site in the internet, that should not deter anyone from visiting. Keep in mind, that if you are from a country like the U.S. or one similar to it from Europe, service times are not the same in Italy and may not match your expectations. Service usually takes around two hours, especially if you order wine and any other extras, but it is first rate. Dress is casual and the food and service are excellent.
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone – Tristan and Dana
Milan – Ristorante Il Salumaio Di Montenapoleone – Courtyard
Ristorante Bice
Also known as Da Gino e Bice (from Gino and Beatrice) or just Bice, this Tuscan inspired restaurant has been a mainstay of Milan cuisine for more than a century. The restaurant’s upscale interior matches its food. It is also situated in Montanapoleone on Via Borgospesso and a short walk from our hotel.
Milan – Ristorante Bice
Milan – Ristorante Bice – Tristan and Patti
Milan – Ristorante Bice – Dana and Tristan
Milan – Ristorante Bice – A Very Good Gaja from Montalcino
This restaurant has an excellent menu and wine list, though upon further inspection I found the wine list needing a bit of an update in the Barolo section. But we found an acceptable one nonetheless. Again, being in a very trendy area where Fendi, Prada and other stores are located, the prices reflect the location and the menu’s quality.
Ericka and Gabi’s Wedding Ceremony – Buşteni, Romania
On the 18th of September our daughter Ericka Rose wed Gabriel at the Castle Cantacuzino in Buşteni, Romania. Guests from the United States, Germany and Romania traveled for the occasion. We had a great time, the castle and other contractors did a wonderful job. Here are some slide shows to celebrate their wedding.
The Preparation
The Rings
The Dress
Make up and hair
The flower girl
Meagan and Ericka
A beautiful mother helping a beautiful bride to be.
Our beautiful daughter, Ericka
Ericka and her proud father
The Ceremony
Meagan and Jason
Dana, Patti and Tristan Griffin
Ericka and her dad Erick
Ericka and her Dad
Ericka and Gabi
Ericka and Gabi in the Chapel
Ericka in the Chapel
The Cocktail Hour
Time for a cocktail – Meagan, Jason and Dad share a laugh
Ericka’s Parents – Erick and Patti
Griffin Family – Dana, Meagan, Patti, Erick and Tristan
Griffin Family – Dana, Meagan, Theresa, Patti, Erick and Tristan
Griffin Family – Dana, Meagan, Theresa, Patti, Erick and Tristan
Buşteni, a small town nestled in the virtual center of Romania, sits below the Bucegi Range on the edge of the Carpathian Mountains and therefore enjoys the cool fresh air of the north, unlike the towns and cities south of it.
Buşteni – Bucegi Range Of The Carpathian Mountains – 17th of September, 2021
On the day we arrived in preparation for our daughter’s wedding, it was a bit cloudy and sprinkled a bit. We totally ignored this in the hope that the weather would improve and she would have a nice wedding day, a hope that would turn out to be very prescient.
The above photograph was taken on the 17th of September, the day of our arrival to the castle.
Buşteni – Bucegi Range Of The Carpathian Mountains – 19th of September, 2021
Buşteni is located in Prahova county, Romania; named after the local industry in which tree logs are harvested for the timber industry. Until recently, this was the only industry in this particular town, until several ski resorts were built and some of the local castles were restored. It is now a very active tourist destination, having many points of interests to warrant travel all year round.
Buşteni – Bucegi Range Of The Carpathian Mountains – 20th of September, 2021
The mountain range is on the southern most tip of the Carpathian Range and the tallest peak, Mount Caraiman, is in excess of seven thousand feet.
The Bucegi Range – Carpathian Mountains – Buşteni – Panorama
Buşteni – The Town
There is actually not much to the town itself, aside from a strip of N60 which runs north to south directly through it. This is the same road which takes you south to Bucharest and Otopeni Airport.
Buşteni – Main Street N60 – Looking South – 19th of September, 2021
The Prahova River runs alongside the town as well as a line of the Romanian Railroad. Since any traffic is restricted to the N60 running north to south, traffic can be problematic at times, especially during rush hour. This can be exacerbated by construction and the occasional train coming through town.
Castle Cantacuzino
The castle is a fully renovated and a privately run venue that hosts weddings and other large occasions. It is able to provide these functions with a villa, a small lodge (known as the Hunter’s Lodge) and a very good restaurant and bistro.
The Castle Cantacuzino – Buşteni – Side View
The Castle Cantacuzino – Buşteni – Tristan And Dana
Buşteni – Castle Cantacuzino – Front View – 19th of September, 2021
The Castle Cantacuzino – Buşteni – At Night
The villa is integrated into the castle proper and has immediate access to the grounds, castle and restaurant. Ericka and Gabi chose this as their apartment during the wedding, which made all the arrangements and coordination much easier; more on their wedding in the next edition of this blog.
Restaurants
Casa Magica
A Romanian restaurant hidden on the back streets of Buşteni which has good food is Casa Magica. It is frequented by locals and Romanian tourist who obviously seek it out. Gabi and his brother–in–law were able to pick this establishment out while investigating places to eat in this area. It has a good variety of food at very reasonable prices.
I considered a title in English, however none appeared fitting to me, or at least to my ear. The above essentially translates to Timbered Houses All or all of them. Most, if not all (I didn’t take a census) are built in this style, at least within confines of the ring wall.
Half-Timbered House – Dreieichenhain, Germany
The exemplary example shows all the features of a timbered or half-timbered house in this region of Germany. In fact, Dreieichenhain lays on a three thousand kilometer (appr. 1800 miles) long Deutschen Fachwerkstraße of timbered framed houses in Germany. This virtual road runs through Niedersachsen, Sachsen-Anhalt, Hessen, Thüringen, Bayern and Baden-Württemburg. This town lays on the portion from the Rhine to the Main and Odenwald.
As you walk along the Fahrgasse, the main street in Dreieichenhain, there are several signs explaining the history and method of this type of construction. In typical German fashion, each timber has its own name and in many cases they may have multiple names, depending on their actual purpose.
These include the Rähm or Rähmbalken for the top beams and Schwelle or Grundschwelle for the beams located on the bottom. Echpfosten, Eckstiel and Eckständer may all be used as names for the column posts used for the corners of the buildings.
Half-Timber Building – Dreieichenhain
Half-Timber Buildings – Obertur With Clocks In Distance – Fahrgasse – Dreieichenhain
Here are some additional examples of this construction practice, which many tourist find to represent the idyllic German town. All of them have very restrictive auto and driving rules, many of which require you to park outside the town and walk in. Though we parked outside the town and walked in, the walk was rather short, even though there were two small traffic circles that we had to walk through. While doing so we discovered the town also has its own parking area a few hundred meters from one of the town gates.
The Untertor Gate – Dreieichenhain
Aside from the interesting houses the town is surrounded by the typical Roman wall. This wall has only three gates, through which anyone approaching or leaving the town must pass. The rest of the wall is sparsely populated by lookout towers. The wall is also supplemented and takes advantages of some the buildings in the town to supply part of its construction. For example the church and several stone buildings that were incorporated and included in the wall in order to remain part of the town proper.
The Ruins
Near the Untertur entrance are the ruins of the Burg, or castle, which was rather small, but probably adequate for a town of this size.
The Castle Ruins – Church In The Background – Dreieichenhain
The castle has had a lot of work on it to stabilize its structure and to make it safe for tourists to enter. There is not much to see, but you can enter the ruins and discover the old main hall chimney and other construction items of interest.
Ericka And Patti – Dreieichenhain Castle – Dreieichenhain, Germany – August 2021
Below is another view from outside the ruins and one of the main hall with chimney.
Dreieichenhain Castle – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Gabi And Ericka – Dreieichenhain Castle Chimney – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Restaurants
La Table
Though actually a restaurant, it appears as a rather quaint little boutique coffee shop that sells amazing cakes and desserts. We stopped at La Table for some refreshment, after we had completely discovered what this little town had to offer, and what the local weather kind of forced us into sitting under some kind of cover. Our attempt to sit outside under the coffee shop’s awning was dashed, when what started out as a shower turned into a full blown thunderstorm. We persisted in our belief, along with another cute little old lady from town, that we would be able to sit it out under the awning. But soon enough it rained harder and harder and then the wind picked up and drove us all inside.
Gabi And Ericka – La Table – Dreieichenhain, Germany – August 2021
Luckily, most of the other guest had been driven home by the inclement weather so there was plenty of seating for the rest of us inside, including the little old lady who turned out to be quite the chatterbox. So we ordered up some glasses of Martini Rosso, Prosecco, and hot chocolates along with some cake and had a nice little Kaffeepauseout of the rain and eventually hail.
The Burgweiher – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Above a parting shot of the castle’s water source from the nice little town of Dreieichenhain on the Deutschen Fachwerkstraße.
We started our travels knowing well that we were headed into bad weather. The rain storm that had been predicted for a few days arrived with a wall of thunderstorms and a strong front of rain. No matter, we spent the major portion of our morning traveling from Turin to Chambry and then to Annecy by train.
Train Ride From Turin To Chambry – August 2021
Being delayed a bit in Modane, France by the French authorities, who by the way did a thorough check of everyone’s passports and vaccination status before we were allowed to move on (at least someone is paying attention), we missed our local train in Chambry to Annecy. But that was no big deal and forced us to sit at a cafe there for an hour and have a coffee and a small bite to eat.
We later arrived in Annecy around lunchtime and into our hotel between downpours, so we only experienced a few drops on our stroll across Verdun Square to the Carlton Best Western where we are staying. A newly renovated modern facility which appears adequate for a four star hotel, though it shows some signs of lack of maintenance here and there (just stupid things I would notice.)
Patti On The Quai Madame De Warens – Annecy – August 2021
The city of course was obviously built around the power of the water the pours out of Lake Annecy via the Thiou River. This river is divided by a network of sluices and other diversions for use by the prior residents in numerous ways. There are numerous artifacts along the Quias were used to stop and gather the water for redirection towards mills and perhaps other structures that no longer exist. At least one large canal still exists, the Canal du Vasse, which today is primarily used solely by the park and some boat rental concerns.
Historic Center
The historic center consists of less than a square kilometer of land and buildings, all concentrated around the mouth of the River Thiou and the Canal Le Vassé.
River Thiou – Quai Perriere – Annecy – August 2021
The chaotic nature of the city belies its origins in time, owing to the many narrow side streets and other small venues.
Typical Narrow Side Street – Annecy – August 2021
Strange Plant Arrangement – Annecy – August 2021
The town has a noteworthy palace and a chateau that has been converted to a museum at the top of the one hill off-center of town. The palace is peculiar, in that it exists on the one small island in the middle of the River Thiou.
Palais de L’Isle – River Thiou – Annecy – August 2021
Les Musées d’Annecy
The museums of Annecy are few and for the most part only in French. We purchased our Tickets for Two for the Chateau Museum, if only to see the views. But also with the hope that there would be something of interest inside that we might learn. There was but unfortunately it was only lightly covered by signs with minimal English. So if you visit one of these museums an Optical Character Recognition application must be used to auto-translate any placards or signs if you hope to learn anything at all, in the case you only know limited French.
Tickets For Two – Annecy – August 2021
We actually visited two museums of this group, the Musée-Chateau and the Musée du Film d’Animation. The first holds most of the original artifacts of the chateau, including old chests and some period paintings (including an amazing portrait of the 1858 Donati’s Comet). The second is a French specific museum of film animation of which I could not think of a single example or contribution to non-European film art, hence most of this art remains unknown to many outside this country.
Landscape Art – Chateau Annecy – August 2021
Les Diables De Bessans – Chateau Annecy – August 2021
Main Room – Chateau Annecy – August 2021
Boating on Lake Annecy – Chateau Annecy – August 2021
Boat Diorama – Chateau Annecy – August 2021
Fireplace In Main Room – Chateau Annecy – August 2021
Organisms in Lake Annecy – Chateau Annecy – August 2021
Castle Annecy – Chateau Annecy – Annecy – August 2021
Restaurants
Le Lilas Rose
Le Lilas Rose – Annecy – August 2021
After a short rest, in order to miss the rain that had been following us and started falling, we went out for dinner. Not far from our hotel we found the cute little restaurant Le Lilas Rose which features simple fare from the region of the Haute-Savoie.
Erick’s Chacutierie Plate – Le Lilas Rose – August 2021
I chose the Chacutierie plate, which included an assortment of Parma ham and other dried meat along with potatoes, pickles, cheeses and salad. Paired with a very good Côtes du Rhone and local bread, it made for a very good dinner.
Les Caves Du Chateau
A small and indistinct destination on your culinary adventure here, may take you to The Caves, or Les Caves De Chateau. Though we had actually known about it and marked it down as one possible place to visit, we happened upon by pure accident. It is situated in such a way coming down the Rpe Du Chateau, that it can be easily missed. We decided to stop initially to try the wine, since their list of local and French wine is impressive, and ended up staying for lunch, or déjeuner as they refer to it here.
Les Caves Du Chateau – Annecy – August 2021
Patti tried a local Rosé and I sampled a Paulliac – Les Fleurs des Haute-Bages and a St. Estephe – Cos de Labory, all very excellent choices.
Patti Enjoying Her Wine – Les Caves – August 2021
The Daily Wine List – Les Caves – August 2021
For our meal we had the Charcuterie Board with a large selection of local cheeses, dried meat, pickles and other delights. A small but filling start to our afternoon walk.
Ô Savoyard
On our second evening we made reservations at the Ô Savoyard, a mix of local tradition and tourist hot spot. We arrived early and were able to acquire an excellent table outside away from most people, a necessary precaution when eating out during these times of Covid.
Ô Savoyard – Traditional Savoie Cuisine – August 2021
For my main dish I ordered the traditional Tartiflette special of the restaurant. This is a skillet dish with potatoes, diced bacon or pancetta, with melted wedges of local cheese covering it in a special sauce. For any potato lover it should be the go-to dish in Savoie.
Tartiflette – Savoie Specialty – August 2021
Mondeuse d’Arbin – Savoie – August 2021
Fresh Raspberry Special With Cream – August 2021
Chartreuse Verte – A Traditional Appertif – August 2021
I ordered a nice red wine from the Savoie region made from the Mondeuse Noire grape. A dry, fruity and well rounded wine reminiscent of a young and immature Pinot Noir, I found it a real surprise and very enjoyable. The Chartreuse Verte was surprisingly very herbal and more a digestive than the typical liquer that one might expect. There is also a common local variety called Génépi, which the locals make from herbs and plants that they know, some of which is sold and can be sampled at restaurants.
Auberge du Lyonnais
The hotel on the banks of the River Thiou also sports an exceptional restaurant, at least for lunch. They have a limited menu which for some can be a very negative proposition, especially those with children or older adults. However, the daily specials are first rate and the cover the minimal range of something vegetable, something with meat and at least two selection of fish, both from the local streams, lake and the ocean.
The Bar – Auberge du Lyonnais – August 2021
Outside Seating – Auberge du Lyonnais – August 2021
A Twist On Caprese – Auberge du Lyonnais – August 2021
Erick’s Fish And Potato Dish – Auberge du Lyonnais – August 2021
MiP White Wine – Auberge du Lyonnais – August 2021
Patti and I found the restaurant a highlight of the day and if time permitted would visit it again.
Tomorrow it’s on to Lyon and the continuation of our vacation and trip winding through France on our way to Germany. Our trip to Annecy was great and we enjoyed what we saw and did, and we would recommend it as a two or three day stop for the adventurous. For those who are less adventurous, especially with their language skills and temperament, it’s probably a place to be avoided. There are few if any English speakers here and you have to remain flexible. If you know any French at all, it will come in very handy. If not, you will be using your phone to translate menus and perhaps requests you make of people. Above all else, be patient, the French here are very amenable and want to please you, once you get over any communication barrier. Enjoy!
