We had little slated for our last full day in Ljubljana, but we did want to see the cathedral and Tivoli Park, both of which we had missed in our former romps around town. I guess that is all that remains of our stay here, which we thoroughly and unexpectedly enjoyed.
The Roman Wall
Back in Roman times the settlement which became this city was called Emona. In order to protect Emona, the Romans built a wall around it, like most other Roman towns of that era.
Ljubljana – Park near Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman or Emona Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
This wall was reconstructed in the early nineteenth century, along with a pyramidal feature for one of its gates.
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
The Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Tickets For Two
The Ljubljana Cathedral is not always open to the public, so you have to check the side door for the times. There is a 2€ fee per person to see the cathedral, so be prepared pay, if you want a peek.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Bronze Door
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Old Papel Seal
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Tivoli Park
Tivoli Park, also known as Tivoli City Park, is pretty large and covers a huge hill that is some four hundred meters in height, so be prepared for some serious walking. For the less ambitious, you may walk around its edges and have just as much fun, without getting tired or sweaty.
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
We went on a Sunday, so it was pretty busy with native Ljubljanians and Sloveniens enjoying the cafes and park facilities.
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park Entrance
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Graffiti Block, also known as the Metelkova Art Museum, is about a block housing a collection of graffiti and alternative art works for public viewing. Since, “A picture is worth a thousand words“, I will let my photographs speak for themselves.
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Restaurants
Foculus Restaurant
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant
Apparently a trendy little pizzeria on the edge of the city not far from the park, but far enough from the center and river so that it is not much affected by all the crowds. We stopped for lunch and something light, so we both ordered salads, which were very good. The prices were very reasonable too!
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant – Chicken Salad
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant – Mixed Salad
Epilog
Well that was our trip to Slovenia. I admitted to my wife many times that I didn’t expect much, but was very pleasantly surprised. If you ever get a chance to go, please do so. The people in the city are very nice and almost all speak English very well, so don’t let your lack of language skills deter you, go!
Ljubljana – Mini Dragon – Try and find them all
Some remaining photographs of this great city, enjoy…
At the base of the Southern Limestone Alps[1]They are additionally known as the Julian Alps., or Karawanken Mountains, sits the small town and lake of Bled . It is almost a must see place to go on a day trip from Ljubljana, especially if you have enough time. Since we have the time, we usually overbook our stays at places that are totally unknown to us. For Ljubljana specifically, and Slovenia in general, we were happy that we did, since it afforded us a day trip such as the one to Bled. Slovenia really is a great place to visit!
Bled – entrance from parking lot – panorama
Lake Bled – Getting There
To get to the lake you must travel northwest from Ljubljana, there is the E61 that can be taken by car or bus. The trip normally takes forty-five minutes by car, and up to an hour and a quarter by bus, but can take longer if there is an accident or construction on the highway. Upon the suggestion of the information booth by the Triple Bridge we took the bus, even though we now think the train may be faster. The bus is packed, so if you are worried about Covid-19, and you should, you should be prepared to wear you FFp2 mask.
It should be noted, the bus takes two different routes going to and coming from the lake, each taking about the same time. There is of course the train, which may actually take less time gong to and fromm Bled, but then you have about a twenty or so minute walk from the town of Bled Train Station to the lake. The bus on the other hand goes all the way to the lake, even though we chose to get off at the Blen Union station.
Bus Ride to Bled – Starting out
Bus Ride to Bled – Mountains along the way
Bus Ride to Bled – Sign for Bled
Bled – Upravna enota Radovljica
Lake Bled – The Trail
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
There is an excellent trail that totally circumnavigates the lake, going through several tourist beach and cafe points, any one of which you can take a pause in your walk to get refreshed.
Here is a slideshow of our great afternoon walking the lake shore trail, enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery.
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Restaurants
Hotel Starkl Restaurant
Around 12:30 or so we stopped about three quarters of the way, going anti-clockwise around the lake, at the restaurant Hotel Starkl. It is best to get to any European tourist restaurant thirty to forty-five minutes in advance, because at one o’clock they fill up quickly. Here we purchased simple salads and enough wine and water to enjoy the fabulous weather.
Continuing our Summer Trip of eastern Italy and Slovenia, and after a two and a half hour train ride from Trieste, is the charming city of Ljubljana, Slovenia. Actually, much to my surprise, stepping off the train there was a noticeable cleanliness to it all which rarely, if ever, went away. We even noticed this in some of the more off-beat areas and in other towns, that we ventured to on our day trips.
The Slovenians are no doubt a very orderly, patient people. This can also be witnessed in their driving, since it is very rare, almost uncommon to hear the sound of a horn. When asked, “Why is this?”, most reply with the simple retort, “Well it’s simply rude, and in most cases, unnecessary.”
Ljubljana – The Main Train Station
Ljubljana, Lublana and Laybach
Ljubljana is a very old city, dating back to the twelfth and eleventh centuries, though a town called Emona stood here during Roman times. Myths and stories have linked it to Jason and the Argonauts and his struggles, and the killing of the great beast which inhabited the marsh nearby[1]This is where the metaphor of the dragon comes in., which apparently was responsible for the great floods that occurred frequently. It later became synonymous with Ljubljana in the mid-twelfth century.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
Bridges In Lubljana
There are several noteworthy bridges in the city, the Dragon Bridge, the Triple Bridge, the Cobbler’s Bridge and the Butcher’s Bridge. There are several others, however these are the ones we spent the most time on and are the most remarkable.
The Dragon’s Bridge
Due to the myth it is probably appropriate that the city have a dragon bridge, one not only to remember Jason’s deeds, but also the ever present danger of the river itself.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge
The Triple Bridge
Not far from our hotel and adjacent to Prešeren Square is the Triple Bridge. It was originally one bridge, the central span, but as business and traffic increased the other two side bridges were added for pedestrian traffic.
Ljubljana – The Triple Bridge
Ljubljana – The Triple Bridge
The Cobbler’s Bridge
A quaint bridge that connects two important parts of the medieval city.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Patti on Cobblers Bridge
The Butcher’s Bridge
This bridge got its name, since it was near the place that the butchers of the city used to come and wash the carcasses of the animals. The blood and stench of rotting flesh this process brought down through the city must have been appalling. The practice was stopped soon after the residents had had enough of the smell. It is now decorated with locks and bronzes of mythological creatures.
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronze
Ljubljana – City Art – Bronzes
Castle Hill
There are two prominent hills in Ljubljana, the one that contains Tivoli Park and Castle Hill, which contains the Ljubljana Castle.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana Castle
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Castle – Tickets For Two
Perched above the city on the Castle Hill is the Ljubljana Castle. In 1679, Valvasor did an engraving of the Laybach Castle, as it was known in German at the time, showing the castle and many other landmarks of Lublana.[2]There are many spelling variations for this city, due to it being part of many different empires and countries throughout its history.
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The Ljubljanica River
As it goes through the city the river is split into two. A major section goes directly through the old city, offering tourists the possibility of buying a ticket and traveling part of it, up to where it divides. The boats cannot venture too far however, since parts of the river are reserved for wildlife and cannot be entered.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River
Sitting at one of the many cafes along the waterway, one can wile away the afternoon sipping a drink and just watching the boats meander along.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – River Boats
Boat Tours
Both looking at the tour boats ply the water and actually taking a boat trip is both relaxing and very enjoyable. We decided one evening to take one and see where it actually goes and found it very interesting.
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour – Triple Bridge
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour
Walking Tour Of The City
Here is a slideshow of some of the other sights in the city.
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Restaurants
Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
This is a traditional Slovenian restaurant, service many of the authentic dishes and also some non-Slovenian favorites, so anyone who visits can find something to eat. For us it was the traditional fried sausage, or Kranjska Klobasa with pickled turnips and roasted potatoes.
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Patti
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Fried Sausage with Pickled Turnips and Potatoes
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Hisna Gibanica
Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant
Cantina Mexicana Restaurant
Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant –
The Cantina Mexicana is a very good mexican restaurant that features both Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine. It wasn’t too difficult to find something appetizing among the enormous selection of food they offer in their menu.
Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant – Barbecued Chicken
Aside from the Adriatic Magnetic Anomaly, there is an additional one along the the Adriatic Coast that few know about, it’s called Piran.
Piran – View of the Town
I call it an anomaly, because one appears to have no other reasonable way of getting there except by car, which for Europe, one has to admit is very strange.[1]There are several other forms of transportation, but none of them go and return on the same day and almost all run irregularly.
Piran – A Day Trip From Trieste
After our Get Your Guide guide cancelled on us, we had to arrange a transfer through our hotel concierge using Taxi Trieste, in order to visit this town for one day. They were actually very good and came in under the amount quoted by the other service (160€ versus 198€), although in this case to be fair, it was just for the transfer and not an all-day stop-and-go tour.
Piran – Taxi Trieste – Perhaps the only way to get to Piran and back in one day
Piran The City
Piran is located on the Piran peninsula and juts out like a triangle into the Adriatic Sea, the Gulf of Piran to one side and the Gulf of Trieste to the other. One can immediately see that the city itself and its architecture have been strongly influenced by both the Venetians and the Hapsburgs (Austro-Hungarian Empire). The church towers have that Venetian look to them, as well as many of the houses and business structures outlining the Tartini Piazza.
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Piazza Tartini
A small plaza that is adorned with a few bronze statues, all which center around the statue of Giuseppe Tartini, the composer and violinist. There are some restaurants, a few businesses and administrative buildings to compliment its surroundings. However, the marble in the middle of the piazza is quite new and shiny and would appear to be a slippery hazard during inclement weather, so be careful.
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza – Giuseppe Tartini Statue – Violinist
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Tartini Plaza
Piran – Interesting Architecture
The Town Wall
Remnants of the old town wall still exist and for a small sum, 3€ each, you may walk the section that is still open.
Piran – Steps leading to the city wall
Piran – The City Wall – Entrance
Piran – The City Wall – Patti on the wall
Piran – The City Wall – View of other section
Piran – The City Wall
Piran – The City Wall
There isn’t really that much to see, aside from its stone masonry and the views it affords to the surrounding area and town.
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The Church Of Saint George’s Parish
The church stands on the west side of the town on top of the hill overlooking the Gulf of Trieste. From its courtyard, Trieste can be seen in the distance, as well as Miramare Castle.
Piran – Saint George’s Church
Piran – Saint George’s Church
Restaurants
While here, we only had occasion to visit one restaurant for lunch, since we were due to be picked back up at one o’clock in the afternoon.
Ristorante Mestna Kavarna
A fusion of wine bar and restaurant, the Mestna Kavarna caters to most tastes. It offers many simple things, including salads and paninis, and of course wide selection of drinks. We found something to satisfy us before our ride arrived.
Before our time here was over, we still had several remaining places throughout Trieste in which to visit. Mainly the waterfront further down along the marina, a few piazzas, the XX September and the Victoria Lighthouse.
XX September
A beautiful avenue on which to shop, eat or just walk on a hot day (it is covered with trees, so there is plenty of shade). We found time to visit this street a few times, since the train and bus stations we use were more or less inline with it. See restaurants section for more information on possible places to eat.
Trieste – Fountain of the Two-Faced Janus
Trieste – More via XX September
Trieste – More via XX September – Flower Shop
If you are looking for something off-beat to eat, fast food or eclectic stores to shop, this is the street.
The Marina
There are several things to note at the marina, as well as the very large cruise ships that come into port on the weekends to visit. Though the Aquarium is closed for renovation, there are still shops and restaurants along this waterfront in which to enjoy.
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The Muzio de Tommasini Park
Located very near the Piazza Oberdan is the park Muzio de Tommasini. A beautiful park with several bronze sculptors visitors can enjoy, awaits you here.
Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park
Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park
Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park
Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park
The Faro Della Vittoria Lighthouse
In order to reach the Faro della Vittoria lighthouse, you either have to drive, or take a taxi or bus, there is no train service to it.
Trieste – Tickets For Two – All Day Bus Tickets
Trieste – Piazza Oberdan – Main Bus Stop
Buses 42 and 44, from Piazza Oberdan, can take you here in twenty minutes for a modest fee of about one euro sixty. We purchased the all-day ticket for three euros each, which was actually cheaper, since it covered both going there and our return.
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Observation Platform View
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Observation Platform View
Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Observation Platform View
At over sixty meters in height, the lighthouse is one of the tallest in the world. Inside there is a small museum and the circular stairway that ascends to the first viewing deck, about fifty steps. Though we arrived during the weekend, the upper part of the lighthouse was no longer open.
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Restaurants
Bella de Napoli
A small restaurant on XX September that serves Neapolitan fare is Bella Napoli. We stopped for lunch and had a very good meal for under forty euros.
Trieste – Bella Napoli – XX September
Trieste – Bella Napoli – XX September
Trieste – Bella Napoli – Spaghetti with Pancetta and Onion
From the Trieste Train Station it is possible to take a local or regional train for a day trip and visit the Castle of Miramare just north of the city. Tickets are available via the TrennItalia application, at the ticket counter or vending machines.
Miramare – Train Station
Miramare – Train Stop
On the walk to the train station we were able to stop and enjoy some of the monuments and fountains that we missed on our previous walks.
Before reaching the castle, there is a very beautiful park that surrounds it. Its shade was very welcome with temperatures reaching the mid 90s.
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The park is actually very well maintained. Undergrowth is allowed to grow where it should and well pruned in other areas. There are benches everywhere, so feel free to sit down and enjoy the quiet while you can, birds and cicadas notwithstanding.
Miramare Castle
Miramare Castle – Tickets For Two
The Miramare Castle was built in the mid eighteen hundreds by Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximillian and his wife. The castle is rather small, but fits well into the coastline and has some interesting internal features, including a Chinese Room.
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Restaurants
A short walk north on the path down to Grignano will bring you to the marina where several restaurants are located. We chose Tavernetta al Molo for lunch and were not disappointed.
Tavernetta al Molo
Grignano – Travernetta al Molo
A small establishment by the marina that has a good menu, including daily seafood specials, drinks and desserts. We spent about two hours eating, relaxing and enjoying a rest during a very hot day.
Grignano – Travernetta al Molo
Grignano – Patti at Travernetta al Molo
Grignano – Travernetta al Molo – Grilled Tuna, Potato and Tomato
Grignano – Travernetta al Molo – Spaghetti in Lobster Sauce
After months of planning, we finally arrived in Trieste after our seven hour train trip, which turned into a nine hour ordeal at the end. This was totally unforeseen because of the weather and a huge forest fire that started burning the day before in the Carso region. We were halted by Italian authorities in Monfalcone from using the train, which runs between Monfalcone and Trieste, due to the fire’s proximity to the train tracks. The E70 and the train line that runs along the coast here were closed out of an abundance of caution.
Trieste – Smoke From Carso Wildfire
Unity of Italy Square – Smoke From Carso Wildfire
We were all loaded onto buses and transported on local roads, all of which were backed up by re-routed traffic, extending our trips an extra hour. Only to be dropped off at the next available train station. We had assumed they were taking us all the way to Trieste by bus, but that was not in their calculus. Instead, we waited for the other buses to arrive at the next train station until the next train to Trieste left, which actually was only forty minutes later. So all-in-all, not as bad as some of the horror stories one hears about air travelers.
Trieste – Roman Veins
While walking the city, one can see that Trieste has some very deep cultural veins, when it comes to ancient Rome and the remains they left behind. From the Roman Theatre, to the aqueducts that brought water into the city, the Romans had a strong influence over the city.
Trieste – Roman Theatre
Trieste – Roman Theatre
Trieste – Roman Theatre
Trieste – The City
The city is very clean and pedestrian friendly. There are many open public spaces and a beautiful promenade along the waterway. Visitors will find it a very inviting and friendly place to walk and experience.
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The Hilton Hotel DoubleTree
The hotel is situated at the Piazza Repubblica on via Mazzini and directly in front of a bus stop. It is within eight minutes of the train station and very close to public parking. So any form of transportation you use will get you quickly to the hotel.
Trieste – Piazza Repubblica – Hilton Hotel DoubleTree
Trieste – Hilton Hotel DoubleTree – Foyer
Trieste – Hilton Hotel DoubleTree
Trieste – Hilton Hotel DoubleTree
Restaurants
Chimerina Ristorante
We had a very nice meal at this restaurant. Its cuisine centers around seafood and just very good Italian food. It is located in the old Jewish Ghetto of the city and has that old town feeling. The food is excellent.
Trieste – The Jewish Ghetto – Chimerina Ristorante
Surrounded on the three sides, by what are generally called the Hills of Piedmont (for which Superga Hill is one), sits the town of Chieri. A town that goes back to ancient times, due to the richness of the area and the Po river valley.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking west toward Pino Torinese
From Turin it is easy to get to Chieri. One can either take a bus or take the Sfm1 train from Porta Susa, which runs about every thirty minutes, it is about a thirty minute ride to Chieri and the last stop for this train.
Chieri – Patti at the Tandem Bar on Vittorio Emanuele II
The main pedestrian way, via Vittorio Emanuele II, is a short walk from the train station and has numerous cafes and bars, here you can purchase a coffee or other drink, before you explore this quaint little town.
Town Of A Hundred Towers
During the early middle ages, the town once had numerous towers, especially built into the town wall, which were erected (like in many other towns in Italy) as defensive structures. Most of these were destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa’s army when they laid waste to the town in 1154. However, a few still remain, one of which can be seen below.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking south and one of the remaining towers
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking southeast
Church of Sant Giorgio
This is the highest point and from here you can get a commanding view of the town, as seen in the two photographs above and the beginning photograph.
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio on the hill
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio tunnel to overlook
Other than that, there’s not much else to do in Chieri, except perhaps amble through its quiet streets and perhaps do some shopping. Here is a short slide show of some of the other things you can see while here.
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Restaurants
With limited time we were only able to visit one restaurant while here, though several that came up on our search were not open until the evening. However, you will find the choice below to be exceptionally good, if and when you have the chance to visit this charming little town in Piedmont.
Trattoria della Erbe
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe
This trattoria sits on the corner of the Piazza Umberto I and via San Domenico, is fairly non-descript, but the food is authentic Sardinian and quite good.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Caponata Siciliana
The menu changes daily and is posted on both a board outside and on the window next to the entrance. The menu is restrictive, as for most small establishments like this one, but everything we ordered was quite tasty and delicious. We started with some antipasti, a Caponata Siciliana, served with eggplant, onion, peppers, green olives and other goodies, not hot, but just warmed a bit. A slight tinge of vinegar mixed with the tomato based sauce was just right to get the taste buds to pucker for more. Our mains, or primis, came out a short time after and included the Levantine di Mare for Patti and for me, the Ravioli Sardi. Both were delicious and portioned correctly, just enough to leave a little room for dessert!
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Levantina di Mare
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Ravioli Sardi
The dessert was actually unexpectedly delicious and savory. A Sardinian Seada or Seadas, that can only be explained as a kind of dough pocket filled with assorted cheese, heated and served with honey. The sweetness of the honey and the saltiness of the cheese make for an unexpectedly tasty treat.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Seada or Seadas
Top that off later with a caffè and Sambuca (to make caffè corretto of course) and you have the culmination of the great lunch.
All in all, Chieri makes a great day trip, if only just to walk around and soak up its quiet stillness, after being in Turin for a few weeks. If only to experience some great Sardinian food at this trattoria!
We have been back in Turin for about a week and had to start knocking restaurants off of our list, at least those that we always wanted to visit. After our recent trip to Greece, we decided we had had enough of eating in and it was time to start eating out again. The following are a few special ones we feel we should mention.
Disclaimer: If you are coming from the US, please keep in mind portion sizes in Italy and perhaps most of Europe for that matter, are not like in the States. In Italy there is always Antipasti, a Primi and then a Secondi for those who need more.
La Piola di Alfredo
When in Piedmont and especially Turin, if you see the word Piola in the name of a restaurant, you are more than likely going to experience some really good local food. You may think of the word Piola synonymous with Trattoria.
La Piola di Alfredo – Turin
The restaurant itself is quietly unassuming and nondescript. The owners and help speak no English, so it is best if you learn at least a little Italian (or your favorite translation application, good luck), or at the very minimum point to what you want.
Pollo Carpione with Vinegar Onions and Tomato Salad
Agnolotti alla Ragu
My wife an I were just interested in something to drink and a simple lunch. Though the bottled Nebbiolo wine by the glass ran about €5/glass and was very good, the cheaper alternative was the Vino Sfuso, or house bulk wine, which can be purchased for €2/glass or €10/Liter and is probably very good (I will make a point of it to try it next time).
Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant
We have written about Nuovo Zhen Bao before and it has become one of our go-to places for Chinese food. We have tried other Chinese restaurants throughout Turin, but none have come close to the delicious salads (especially the dressing on the Insalata Cinese), spring rolls and main courses as does this restaurant. The service is usually first rate and they normally have plenty of help on hand.
They have both outside and inside dining, as well as an excellent lunch (Pranzo) menu for only €10, which includes a bottle of water, appetizer, first and second courses.
Vietnamese Rolls
Chinese Salad
Vegetables Rice
Pork with Onions
Chicken with Potatoes
My Missing Tiramisu
Stimonio
A bistro that serves naturally and bio friendly items from its menu. They have several items, such as sweet and vegan pancakes, as well as other bio- and earth-friendly choices.
Stimonio Bistro
We chose the tuna salad, so they are not exclusively vegan. I had preferred a more complete Piemontese menu, but they do offer a plethora of smoothies and other health friendly items from which to chose. They do not have a house wine or bulk wine (vino sfuso), so wine by the glass can be a bit expensive for Italy at €5/glass (I normally wouldn’t mind, but for that price it isn’t that good).
Ristorante L’Agrofoglio
Much to our dismay, we must announce the closure of the L’Agrofoglio Ristorante and Piola. We had reported on their very good menu and excellent wine cellar, only to be saddened by their closure when we arrived back in Turin early this year. A major loss, I will never forget the unbelievable Barolo that we enjoyed there during our Sunday lunch in July of 2021. A wine, I subsequently tried to order a few months later, only to be told it was no longer available. I lamented of course. (We tried the 2013, which sadly, wasn’t quite the same).
Well we took the ferry from Naxos to Santorini and as luck would have it, it was very smooth. We were kind of worried about it, because the prior days leading up to our excursion, it was very windy and the water was extremely rough. My wife had already related to me, that in rough seas, they sometimes cancel the ferries between islands; we didn’t need any of that. It was bad enough that she had contracted bronchitis and was just getting her voice back. In fact, my son-in-law also had a cold, making their holiday just a bit more annoying than usual.
We were off the ferry in no time and looking for our driver, which with all of the vehicles and people, was actually easier than I had thought it was going to be. After sitting in the car for about fifteen minutes, waiting for the long procession of cars, buses, trucks and other vehicles to make it up the cliff, the road before us had more switchbacks than teeth on a saw. But it was slow going, so motion sickness never became an issue.
Naxos to Santorini – Ferry on the Aegean Sea
Naxos to Santorini – Ferry
Naxos to Santorini – Gabi, Patti, Dana, Tristan and Ericka
Naxos to Santorini – Oia from Ferry
Once we reached the top and made it through the stop sign, we were in our Heliotopos Hotel in Imerovigli in no time. On Santorini we actually split our vacation between two different hotels, one in Imerovigli and one in Oia. And aside from the driver from the shuttle service driving past our hotel in Oia, for which we had a fairly long walk in the heat, no other problems befell us while on Santorini.
Naxos to Santorini – Imerovigli and Thira from Ferry
Another island in the Cyclades island chain, Santorini is a large caldera formed from an ancient volcano that blew its top some time around 1450 BCE. When it did, it had a major impact on the Minoan population that had settled on the chain of islands.
The Greek Evil Eye
One might say the island of Santorini now looks like a great Greek Evil Eye from the sky. A small ring of islands with a caldera of water and a center made from the remaining two active volcanoes. If of course one is superstitious like that.
Imerovigli – A Volcanic Aerie
At the highest point on the largest piece of the caldera that still remains, sits Imerovigli. It is perched on and along the cliff, as though some flock of birds had built it. Yet historically most of the initial building were for wine making and production, later repurposed for the tourist industry.
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
It is actually amazing, how after such a catastrophe, that individuals would continue to build on such notorious ground. Though one can imagine, that after a few hundred years with the volcano’s silence, they probably could not resist planting in the rich volcanic soil.
The Heliotopos Hotel
We stayed at the Heliotopos Hotel in Imerovigli, which is strategically located on the footpath to Thira, for those wishing that early morning walk, or just access to the island path that actually goes from Thira all the way to Oia.
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Skaros Rock
A short twenty minute hike from hotel was Skaros Rock. A broken piece of caldera that looks more like a mesa than anything belonging to a volcano.
Thira, Santorini – Skaros Rock
Though thoroughly signed as dangerous, there is nothing preventing anyone from hiking the path around the rocky projection. Read all the signs carefully and make your own decision.
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I would caution, the north side is a bit challenging for anyone with balance or other issues, one misstep and one could fall pretty far, perhaps leading to death or serious injury.
Oia – Caldera Cutie
A Greek jewel clad in white wash and white marble is essentially what Oia is to those who visit its tourist filled streets and alleys. Make no mistake, if you visit Oia, there will be crowds; all trying to get that perfect social media photograph. This is especially the case in the evening, when they are all out trying to get their sunset pictures.
Oia, Santorini – The Three Blue Domes
There is not a lot of real estate in Oia, so some will find it very confining. But it is worth a visit, though I would not spend more than a few days here. Boredom being defined here as a slow Oia drip. If I had to do it over again I would probably just visit it for the day and perhaps have one evening dinner there, the rest is just too touristy for me.
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The Atrina Cavana 1894 Hotel
We stayed at the Atrina Cavana 1894 in the Atrina Villa for our anniversary. It was very spacious and has all the amenities one should need, it even has a kitchenette for those who wish to cook in on occasion.
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava 1894 – Entrance
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Patti
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa
Since real estate is at a premium, not all hotels in Oia have pools, our hotel was probably an exception. Not only did we have access to a pool, but we also had a hot tub with our villa that all of us took advantage. The pool was actually a bit cold and the surface was very slippery. We had fun anyway.
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Restaurants
There are many good restaurants in Santorini, probably only during tourist season, since many do not open until late May or early June. Many cruise ships also visit the island starting in June and ferry passengers near Thira, so it is best to make reservations, at least if you are staying on the island and know your itinerary.
Imerovigli, Santorini – Sunset from Avocado Restaurant
Finding a place in Thira, Imerovigli or Oia, at least one that has both a sunset view and exceptional food, may be challenging, but not impossible. We actually were able to do both, here are a few that we visited for either lunch or dinner.
Avocado
Situated in Imerovigli and not necessarily one of the best places to view a sunset, the Avocado restaurant has good food and a pretty good wine list. We chose it, because it was very close to our hotel and we were all a bit tired.
Avocado Restaurant – Group Photograph
The service was as expected and since we sat outside, we were able to enjoy the sunset and had a very nice evening eating and talking.
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Kastro Restaurant
The Kastro restaurant in Oia is known for its amazing sunset venue. Book at table during the summer for around 7:30 and you will have it long enough to the enjoy a beautiful sunset in Oia. The view of the caldera is just fantastic and the food is not bad either. Personally, I didn’t take any sunset photographs here, since I think the sunsets from Imerovigli are better.
Needing a break from all of the Greek food we found an Italian restaurant called DaVinci’s in Thira. They make traditional Italian food and pizza, as well as the expected Greek gyro or souvlaki. We stopped here for lunch and had a very good meal, at very reasonable prices.
Imerovigli, Santorini – Da Vinci Restaurant
Alexios
A quick change in our plans during our last evening on Santorini led us to Alexios in Oia. Closer to our hotel, it too has a very good outside patio on which to view the sunset. The food was traditional Greek and okay, but at this point I had already seen enough Greek food, which honestly is a bit too meat-centric for my taste.
Alexios Restaurant – Patti and Ericka
Alexios Restaurant – Patti, Ericka and Tristan
Alexios Restaurant – Sailing Ships
Alexios Restaurant – Main Pedestrian Way
Pitogyros Traditional Grill House
I will be honest, I am not sure what a traditional grill house is in Greece or on Santorini. But, if the number of people trying to get into this place at any given time is any indication, they seem to have named the place right at least. At Pitogyros in Oia, the food is mostly traditional meat gyros and souvlaki served in a pita or a platter, as well as other dishes. Most dishes are served with french fries, with the exception of their salads. A very inexpensive place to eat, if you can get a place to sit. We waited for thirty minutes before our party of six were seated, which honestly probably was not that bad, considering it was around two o’clock in the afternoon.
Pitogyros Traditional Grill House – Front
Pitogyros Traditional Grill House – Our Table
Pitogyros Traditional Grill House – Pita Gyros with Fries
Wines
We drank the following wines while on Santorini, along with a few others. But, we feel the following deserve mention.
We finally left Santorini and dropped our sons off at the airport for their flight back to the United States. Of course, the weather had been beautiful for two weeks and we were not complaining. But as Greece would have it, it threw one last punch at us before they left. While we were sitting having lunch in Athens with Ericka and Gabi, thunderstorms had moved in and it poured, subsequently delaying their flight from the airport. Though the delay was over an hour, it luckily did not impact their connecting flight and they made it home perhaps just a little later than expected. After all of the other travel horror stories we have been hearing about, we considered ourselves lucky, even after everything that had happened.
Post Script
If you have any heard horror stories about traveling as of late, they are not fiction, they are probably TRUE. Traveling, due to latent affects of combating Covid, the war in Ukraine and other things, has turned traveling into a true hell.
If you have the ability to wait, I would do so, at least until certain things like airline staffing have been reconciled.
If you cannot wait and have connections, I would suggest booking any initial flights to your destination for a day early. This may cause extra expense and staying overnight in a hotel, but it might save you the headache of missing an important connection, especially on long haul flights that have multiple connections or even a international cruise.
Do NOT trust anything your airline or train service will tell you, it only takes one thunderstorm or some last minute strike to start a massive backlog these days. Good luck!
