This is our final post about Nice, which we must say was very enjoyable and at times interesting. There are no doubts there are better places to go for a lazy or leisurely holiday. But few can offer the night-life, culture and coastal pleasures than the Côte d’Azur and Nice can. If we were to come back, it would be during the beginning of Summer, so that we could enjoy the beaches a bit more, though probably not in Nice, since they are quite rocky here.
Asian Restaurants
There are several good Asian restaurants in and around the vicinity of the railway station. Though we did not have time to try them all, two of our favorites were Restaurant China for simple Chinese and Thai fair, and Les Baguettes d’Argent for Vietnamese. On one of our last nights in Nice, we visited the latter and were very happy with all of our meals.
The Beef and Vegetable Stirfry
Ericka – “All Done, Where’s My Dessert!?”
Nice At Night
There is nothing like strolling a boardwalk along a beach. With its throng of people from all over the world and businesses, it can be a very enjoyable experience during a vacation or holiday. This is definitely the case in Nice, which has an extraordinarily long boardwalk in the shape of a large crescent.
A Full Moon Over Cap de Nice
Here are some additional parting photographs from our walk along the beach. We were especially lucky to have a full moon greet us as we walked, as well as perfect evening temperatures.
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Conclusion
A very nice place to vacation. Depending on what your plans are, the area offers a variety of things you can do. It is no doubt a gambler’s paradise, so if you are a gambler, drinker and eater, here is a prime spot. The area also has a fairly high number of hotels, so depending on your budget you should be able to, more or less, pick what you want; but I would book in advance since while we were here the Ironman Championship was being held and rooms were scarce.
The people we encountered were very nice and helpful. Even the hotel and restaurant staff, we found to be very attentive. We infrequently ran into any language barrier. Most people in the area seem to have some knowledge of English, most likely due to the high influx of tourists to the area. But, have your smart phone at the ready just in case.
On Another Note
Antibes – One Solution – The Poop Patrol
We did however find the city itself a bit dirty, not in the normal sense of a city, but dirty (think N.Y.C. in the 1960’s), even if you overlook the dog excrement all over. For a tourist area, this is unfortunate and even though we do not live here, we do not like to see it either.
The French love their dogs and apparently their dog excrement as well, since they do not appear to do much about it. I guess it’s a societal issue. I always thought that the main reason in developed societies for installing plumbing was to remove the excrement from the streets to prevent disease, etc.; I guess I may be wrong(?) I did however see one municipality trying a solution, the Poop Patrol. Apparently Antibes is trying a motorcycle outfitted with a vacuum attachment to suck up any dastardly dog remains. The container on the rear (see above photograph) even has Bio-Hazard warnings on it. I found it funny, a bit ridiculous, but all-in-all probably necessary. I don’t think the French are going to change their habits about dogs anytime soon.
With that, we leave you for now until next time when we will be exploring London and Scotland. Until then…
Where to start, especially when visiting the most densely populated place on Earth? I guess for us, that would be the SNCF train station, which is about a 30 minute ride from Nice. In Monaco,it drops you off in a tunnel, like other places we enjoyed in Cinque Terre, Italy. So like there, we had to walk a long tunnel and climb some stairs to finally emerge and enjoy our destination.
Monaco Harbor
Once you start walking, you can tell that space here is at a premium. Even the sidewalks are not as generously proportioned as other places that we have visited.
Within ten minutes or so, we found ourselves walking along the Avenue de la Quarantaine. Viewing the port, which when compared with photographs of the 1970s, was crammed with watercraft of all sizes.
Theatre du Fort Antoine
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Along The Digue de L’Avant Port
Port from The Digue de L’Avant Port
On the point where you need to take a right and walk along the coast, is a theatre called the Theatre du Fort Antoine. Though very nice, with an almost modern appeal, it is not considered a cultural spot for the city. Proceeding along the Digue de L’Avant Port, you walk directly toward the institute.
Musée Océanographique
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Sea View
Also known as the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco; a rather impressive building from the sea. The former study and laboratory for Jacques-Ives Cousteau and his adventures, is itself also responsible for introducing some of the invasive species now threatening the Mediterranean Sea — via the unconscionable practice of flushing unwanted biological organisms down the toilet or drain, as practiced in other developed countries as well.
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Internal Entrance from Parking Garage
Oceanographic Institute of Monaco – Main Entrance
The Institute is well fitted to handle a large number of visitors with underground parking, that accommodates large buses and escalators to assist all, up to the ticket lobby. One must first pass multiple shops and other facilities, before entering the institute to enjoy the museum and/or aquarium.
Tickets For Two
The Museum
It is divided into two equally impressive multi-level rooms which contain a very large selection of specimens, stories and artifacts from the natural world, encompassing the globe.
The Main Hall
One Entrance To The Museum
A Kayak In The Main Hall
Shadowbox Displays
Shadowbox Display – Showing The Calypso
The large main hall has a very large wall display meant to be offered as a shadowbox of significant developments in oceanography, which happily includes the Calypso.
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With specific emphasis on the oceans and their habitats, the collection also includes some archeological specimens in the form of fossils and replication of prehistoric animals. These are used as a pedagogical device and comparison to present day species which are on display here.
Fish from the Deep Oceans
One can find one of two displays on deep-sea creatures as well, which are interesting to see, even if it is in a petrified state.
There is also a section detailing the scientific devices and methods used in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.
One Of Cousteau’s Submarines
Outside, there is apparently the first submarine Cousteau used early in his career.
It took us a little over an hour to complete the museum, which we did before seeing the aquarium.
The Aquarium
I have been to many aquariums, but I must say this one ranks up at the top five for sure. Not only for the breath and depth of species they have, but also the specimens and facilities are very well-kept. All the animals appear quite normal in behavior and have more than sufficient space to enjoy what surroundings they have been given.
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There are a few large main tanks which host a myriad of species and most of the large predators, including sharks.
The Nautilus Tank
The rare species that they do have, include the Cuttlefishand the Nautilis. With the Cuttlefish, you definitely get the feeling that this animal is not only looking back at you, but that there is also some analysis going on as well — definitely an intelligent species.
My favorites are unfortunately the ones I used to have in fish tanks. The Emperor Angelfish, Hippo Tang and Copperbanded Butterfly fish stand out to me to be some of the most interesting and beautiful specimens.
But, the Damselfish are also great to view, with their luminescent blue and their proclivity for darting back and forth.
Even with the current onslaught against the Amazon, there are also Piranha here too. One can only wonder when this species will be threatened too, if not already.
Seahorse are one of the more popular attractions, most likely because they are so different from all of the normal or bony fishes. But then again, what is a normal fish?
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Eating In Monaco
After our long visit at the institute, it was time to get something to eat. Not but a five-minute walk away, we found Restaurant L’Aurora.
Restaurant L’Aurore – Fine Food and Good Service
This is another restaurant that will remind those who travel along the coast of France and Italy of Niçose style. The menu offers a fusion of French and Italian dishes. It is sometimes unclear in the Côte d’Azur, if you are eating French or Italian; either will claim the dishes and cuisine are theirs! However, this is a good restaurant. The food was very good and the staff very accommodating. I had the blue plate special, just one selection of which there were many.
L’Aurora – Staff and Inside
Daily Special – Ravioli – Ummm-Umm-Good!
Monte Carlo
Not far from the train station, perhaps a 20 minute walk away, is Monte Carlo. Having come this far we pushed forward up the hill and up to Monte Carlo to see what, if anything, it was all about.
Monte Carlo
Monte Carlo – Litfaßsäule
Our initial impression was no one lives here, all we saw were tourists. If one took the tourists away, then no one would be walking around. Obviously, just a playground for the filthy rich. Even the sidewalks are tiled and run perfectly to adjoin all the buildings where they meet. I saw no homeless people.
Patti and Ericka – Walking in Monte Carlo
Almost every store and door has a doorman; there are security personnel walking around everywhere. You get the distinct impression that whether you live here or not, you are suspected at all times.
Casino de Monte Carlo
The Casino de Monte Carlo is perhaps the only architecturally significant building in this area. Though a bit ostentatious, it has a certain appeal, even for those not expecting it.
Not much to see from the outside and there is a considerable piazza outside, probably doubling as a parking lot for important occasions. Not interested in the inside, no relation of ours, we took our photographs and left for other sites.
Apotheosa Monaca
Conclusion
Though I found the city-state interesting, I have no wish to live there; it appears devoid of real life.
Freiheit liebe ich und die Luft über frischer Erde; lieber noch will ich auf Ochsenhäuten schlafen, als auf ihren Würden und Achtbarkeiten.
Ich bin zu heiss und verbrannt von eigenen Gedanken: oft will es mir den Athem nehmen. Da muss ich in’s Freie und weg aus allen verstaubten Stuben.
Our trip to Antibes, which today is the major port for the Côtes d’Azur, was mainly due to visit the Musée Picasso. From Nice, by way of the SNCF train system, we disembarked from the main train station at the upper part of town, near the base of the port and walked into town.
Antibes – The Old City
Antibes – The Old City
The old city is some 15 to 20 minute walk along the Avenue de le Liberation, Avenue Paul Arène and Boulevard d’Aguillon.
Boulevard d’Aguillon
Patti Walking The Boulevard d’Aguillon
Antibe – Start of the Boulevard d’Aguillon
Foutain at the Gate of Rue Aubernon
Antibes is not as impressive as some of the other towns and cities you will find along this famous coast, but we found that it has its own kind of charm.
Antibes – Old City Charm
Antibes – Old City Charm
It has many narrow side streets filled with shops and a very large plaza, Place Nationale, where vendors of all kinds sell different things. While we were there, a market similar to one we would call a flea market in the States, was in full swing. Everything from furniture to estate items were offered for sale.
Antibes – Place Nationale
The old city is also a great place to just wander along street to street. Turning a corner you never know what you may find. In some small streets there are still old-style electric wires on glass insulators, a throw-back no doubt of the 1950’s or 60’s.
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Additional areas we wander through are shown above, enjoy.
Where To Eat
As with most tourist spots, there are plenty of places to eat and there are some tourists here; no doubt drawn here for the same reasons we went, Picasso.
On the tip of the main plaza, Place Nationale, just around the corner on Rue Sade, is Le Chaudron. After a quick survey of what was available outside, we choose it because of its menu and decor. It turned out to be a cozy little place with good food.
Risotto with Bacon, Squash and Parmessan for Lunch – Bon Appétit
Le Chaudron – Door to Dining Area
Le Chaudron – Patti Enjoying Lunch
Le Chaudron – Looking out to the Street
All in all with the addition of the museum stop we consider Antibes a very nice place to visit. It one of the remaining if not the last active working port on this coast so you will also see plenty of maritime shops and stores as well as those for tourists.
Picasso Museum
Located at Promenade de l’Amiral de Grasse and Montée Dor de la Souchère right next to the sea is the Musée Picasso. Housed in a very well-kept structure called the Grimaldi Castle (1368-1608), it commands a space in the old city few other buildings are afforded, not even the churches. The castle was built on top of the ancient Greek acropolis of the former city of Antipolis.
Musèe Picasso
The building was purchase in 1925 by the city of Antibes to become what was known then as the Grimaldi Museum. Picasso actually spent time here in 1946 and used it as a workshop. He subsequently made a very generous donation to the museum, some of which were even created there.
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
The exhibit is impressive and contains many of his works from his 1946 period. There is probably something here for every taste but the main themes nudes and shellfish (apparently inspired by the meals he partook while there).
Pablo Picasso – circa 1946
There are also several photographs of the artist along with text and one can also purchase an audio guide for the entire collection.
Note: Aside from the sculptor if there is any interest at all in me providing captions for the works below, then please send me a review with your request. I will also remove this comment after I have done so. Enjoy!
A small triangle of the city of Niceexists, what was originally the old city. If one were to trace it on a map, they would start from the Petit Train monument along the coast, then around Castle Hill, down the Promenade du Paillon (which actually is a covered up old river) and back to the monument. Within this triangle, the visitor will notice the streets are ever so narrower and older, this is the old city.
Old Nice – Place Rossetti
Old Nice – Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Up To Castle Hill
Old Nice – Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Interesting Restaurants
Old Nice – More Narrow Streets
Old Nice – Near the Chapelle of the Visitation
Old Nice – An Old Portal in the City
Old Nice – Interesting Indian Restaurant
The best thing to do here, is just take a half a day, usually around lunch so you can enjoy one of the many restaurants. There are also plenty of shops and other tourist venues you can visit, to satisfy any knickknack itch you may have.
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
Nice – Typical Upscale Street
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
Nice – Area Just Outside The Old City
Nice – Boulevard Jean Jaures
Nice – Garibaldi Square
We walked along the Promenade, up to Giuseppe Garibaldi Square, then to Castle Hill and made our way back down the hill to visit the old city, after having lunch of course.
Niçose Cuisine
In Nice some of the best restaurants to visit specialize in the Niçose style of cooking. This is a blend of French and Italian influences that go back many generations. They offer daily specials and usually an adequate, if not great selection of French and Italian wines.
Restaurant Voyageur
Restaurant Voyageur
One very good restaurant that is the epitome of Niçose style, is Restaurant Voyageur. Not only is the food great, but the service is very good and they understand English very well.
Restaurant Saëtone
Restaurant Saetone
Restaurant Saetone – Inside the Front Door
Restaurant Saetone – The Bar
Restaurant Saetone – The Great Interior
Another very good restaurant is Saëtone. This one is rather small, so you must get there early if you hope to get a seat for lunch. They usually have a very dedicated lunch crowd and every chair and table will be full by the time lunch hour is in full swing.
Both of these are situated on Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine. Of course, before heading out always check the times for when they are open and have a backup plan. You can always get there to find the restaurant to be closed, for whatever strange reason. We found the Voyageur to be the more dependable of the two.
Museum Marc Chagall
A short walk from our hotel is the National Museum of Marc Chagall. We had to take a circuitous route via the Avenue Biassini to get there, but it wasn’t too much of a problem. If you are walking, it is on a hill, so keep that in mind.
Marc Chagall Museum – Tickets For Two
The entrance fee for the museum is at this time 10€, so we bought tickets for two plus one (Ericka).
Marc Chagall – Abraham and the Three Angels (1960-66)
Marc Chagall – Jacob’s Dream (1960-66)
Marc Chagall – Adam and Eve expelled from Paradise (1961)
The works by Chagall include most of his Bible-inspired works, including Noah’s Ark, Descent from the Cross and Adam and Eve Expelled from Paradise.
There is also the blue rose testing window that was created for his work, for the Metz Cathedral.
In a far corner, there is also a wonderful mosaic across a reflecting pond, where one can quietly sit in the room and contemplate the mandala.
Of course, the best and my personal favorites are the blue stained glass windows. These are fantastic and remind me of the stained glass windows of Saint Stephan’s Church in the Altstadt of Mainz, Germany.
Clément Cogitore
While we were in Nice this young visual artist and movie maker had some very interesting displays. Some may not like his artistic talents, since they usually display less color and movements, and may appear almost machine-like. But those who enjoy movies and computer games with a dystopian twist will probably be captivated by them. What follows has been broken up to make just one of the videos I saw there easier to upload.
Sitting less than two miles from Nice is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a mere walk away. Since this little port town is also part of the Côte d’Azur SNCF train system, we decided to do just that, one sunny day. We took a walk over the Mont Boron and took the train back.
Walking From Nice
If you are lucky enough to visit this quaint little town on the sea while no cruise ship is in the bay, then you would be as lucky as we were the day we decided to walk there from Nice. A frequent stop of cruise ships Villefranche-sur-Mer is the most used cruise ship docking port in France. Luckily we were spared both the site and the influx of tourists that accompanies such an ocurrence.
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From the old city of Nice, we ascended Mont Boron, which I must say is much higher on the side of Fort du Mont Alban than we experienced on Castle Hill, Mont Boron’s smaller cousin. However, there are very good paths that switchbacks all the way up to help you with the ascent.
Fort du Mont Alban
The fort from the outside appears to be a four-sided bastion fort. Made entirely of stone, it stands impressively on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, entrance cannot be gained and it appears to be closed. There are no indications that it has ever been opened to the public.
Nice – Fort du Mont Alban
Nice – The Front of Fort du Mont Alban
With the exception of walking up the front stairs to the main door, there appear to be no other entrances on the other sides.
Fort du Mont Alban – Main Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – North Side
Fort du Mont Alban – Ericka from Front Gate
Fort du Mont Alban – West Side
After getting our fill of the view from this vantage point, our walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer continued by finding the path to the town about a hundred meters to the left, leaving the fort. On your map, this path may be called the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban.
Patti Descending the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban
The path starts off easily without much slope, but it progressively gets steeper and less developed the further down you go, until you finally hit the town itself. So, care should be taken.
The Town On The Sea
The Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer from Mayssa Beach Restaurant
From the path you will exit via a walkway to the Avenue du Fort. Since we were thirsty and starting to get hungry, we followed our noses down and finally found the Avenue du Marechal Foch. We found a cafe there for a quick drink. Then it was off to find a restaurant. Ericka found one overlooking the water called Mayssa Beach. A good pick, great service, excellent view and good food at a reasonable price.
Mayssa Beach – Ericka and Patti
Mayssa Beach – Heirloom Tomato Caprese
Mayssa Beach – Rigatoni Special
After haven eaten and relaxed a bit, we decided to walk the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet. The town is actually quite small and has very narrow streets. Enjoy the following photographs from this little gem on the coast.
Nice and the Côte d’Azur conjure up thoughts of beautiful weather, money (rich people) and vacation. It is a destination that many people have on their bucket-list of things to do; if not for the casinos, then at least for the sun and crystal clear light-blue sea. It was after some trepidation on my part and a pause in our other travels, that we decided to go to Nice for another short holiday.
Nice – Front of Main Train Station
Nice – Inside Main Train Station
Whenever possible, we travel via train since it is more cost-effective and has one of the better, if not the best, Eco-friendly footprints. The trip took us surprisingly just over five hours from Turin, most likely due to a mixture of train schedules and the routes involved. However, one of the advantages of being retired is time is the one commodity you have in abundance.
Nice Airport – Looking at Welcome Sign
Nice Airport – Arrivals
Nice Airport – Ericka Waiting To Board Tram
Since this was not actually a last-minute decision, we were still able to use a modest amount of planning and coordinated the trip with our daughter Ericka, who joined us the following day. She flew in and using the Côte d’Azur(I must say) fabulous metro/tram system which now links up with both terminals at the airport, we were able to meet her at Terminal 1.
Tram Line on Avenue Jean Médicin
Our choice of Nice was due to many factors. First the train station is large and one can travel to many different places taking advantage of both regional and special coastal trains. It also happened to be in the center of the Côte d’Azur, the famous vacation coast which attracts visitors and tourists from both France, Europe and beyond. Nice has been expanding their metro and transportation system and it seems to be paying off; it did for us. If you are staying for any amount of time you can buy a 10-trip (not day) transportation pass for 10€ (that’s a 30 percent discount or 4 free trips). Though we did not use them all, we used enough to do better than break even. We then handed them to someone at the hotel, so they could use the rest.
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Belle Meunière, a short two-minute walk from the main train station and our domicile for our travels. Though our room was not much to look at per se, one has to understand the hotel is actually under renovations. The outside of the hotel is very well-kept and seems to be an old historical landmark of some kind, since they have obviously tried to keep it sound. The inside however, is somewhat confused but manageable. It is obviously a converted manor house. It is therefore, not really a hotel but more of a hotel/pension fusion, if there is such a thing.
Hotel Belle Meuniere – A Niçois Experience
We found the price and location with respect to the train station very acceptable and there are also very good Niçoisrestaurants nearby. However, the location also worked somewhat against it as well, since areas around train stations tend to be a bit dirty. This is also true of the area around this hotel. If you are really into the beach, you might prefer something closer to the shore, though they will be more expensive. Though I would not give it any Michelin stars, it was manageable and the staff go out of their way to make you comfortable.
Nice From Inside and Above
Notre-Dame de Nice
Nice is a typical European city. It has a core or old city surrounded by many environs or suburbs that have their own distinct look and things to see. One of the more prominent sights along the main Avenue Jean-Médecin in Nice, is the Roman Catholic Gothic basilica called Notre-Dame de Nice. Like Notre-Dame de Paris, it also has a large rose window on its front but is much younger, smaller and is not a cathedral (it is not even designed after the one in Paris). It will at least make you stop and take a photograph.
Castle Hill
Another must see is the overlook of the city from the Colline du Château or Castle Hill. It is a modest walk from the old city up the hill to the East, before you are able to enjoy the vista.
Ericka and Patti – Nice Overlook
Erick – Nice Overlook
There are several points along the way up to stop and enjoy the view of Nice.
Patti and Ericka – Enjoying The Waterfall After The Climb Up The Hill
There are also other things to see on Castle Hill, including a waterfall and an overlook of Villefranche-sur-Mer, the next town over, though somewhat obscured by trees on the walk down.
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The above are a collection of our initial photographs as we walked through the city.
We also have favourite place in France, called Charlot Premier in Nice, which does excellent oysters.
