Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not doubt a miracle town amongst towns in Germany. Partially bombed during World War II, it took an American officer and the German commander of the city at the time to spare this town. The results of which, we are able to enjoy this middle-age town as it appears today, forty percent of which was nevertheless destroyed by allied bombing before it was stopped.
Panorama Tauber river valley – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
It is located in Bavaria and is about one and a half to two hours drive from the Frankfurt area on the A3 and A7, weather permitting of course. There are several parking areas to choose from for visitors, though we found street parking a block or so further out for free.
Pl̦nlein with Kobolzeller Steige and Spitalgasse РRothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
If it weren’t for it’s strange history at the end of World War II, this town would be easily overlooked. Not necessarily by Germans, but definitely by international tourists always looking for some interesting sidebar or reason to visit. Luckily, even on a Saturday, we did not find it all that busy for a tourist destination. We only hope that it will stay that way.
Patti, Dana, Gabi and Ericka – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Erick – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Dana – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Ericka and Dana – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Patti and Ericka – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Marktplatz
The center square hosts various shops and restaurants, as well as the Town Hall and Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower. Saint George’s fountain can also be found here toward the lower part of the square.
Business shields – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Italian Ice place – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Spitalgasse with Spitalturm in distance – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Marktplatz – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Rathausturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Apotheke shield – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
St. George fountain – Marktplatz – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Dana – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Towers
Rothenburg has many towers on all sides of the town, especially on the eastern side. The main entrance towers are of course grander, but the little ones are no less impressive.
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The City Wall
It is one of only three towns in Germany which is still encompassed by a fully intact town wall. The eastern part of the wall, the one which we were actually able to walk on, was mostly repaired after its destruction at the end of the war.
Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Old unused staircase – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Front and entrance – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Front and entrance – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Several parts are boarded up or unreachable, but many people from around the world contributed funds in the effort to reconstruct it, making it possible to enjoy it today. There are several main entry points, Gallows Gate, Thomas Tower and one near Ruckesse Tower, to name a few.
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Restaurants
There are many restaurants to choose from in Rothenburg, many of which are located in or near the town square. Luckily, we failed on locating an Italian restaurant that was open, but it is August and the Italians are notorious for taking the entire month off for vacation. That forced to find the amazing place that we did below.
Reichsküchenmeister – Das Herz von Rothenburg
If you are able to obtain a seat in the garden, one of the go to places in Rothenburg for a weekend lunch or early dinner.
Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
The garden is just amazing, a totally relaxed atmosphere where we were fortunate enough to have a very responsive waiter. The menu is varied enough where one should be able to find something to fit their culinary needs.
Erbsensuppe – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Mixed salad – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Mixed salad with Feta – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Caprese salad – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Erick and Patti – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
Dana, Gabi and Ericka – Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany
After spending a week in Frankfurt, we decided to spend some time in München, or Munich, Germany. The most affective way to do this from Frankfurt is by train, particularly the ICE DB service. In three hours and some odd number of minutes, you can travel between the two main train stations in comfort.
ICE Train to Munich – Storm Front – München, Germany
With most of the family here, we were seven and traveling by train such a short distance just made the most sense, since our daughter and son-in-law had our grandson along. This gave him some added room to walk around an annoy other people instead of just us, breaking up the monotony of the journey. Not really, but it did provide him enough space to get the wiggles out, as opposed to other modes of transport, like an airplane or automobile.
München
The largest city in Bayern, or Bavaria, Munich is a large, bustling city completely accustomed to tourists and tourism. If you are a mono-lingual English speaker, you will find no problem getting around in Munich, most of the residence and restaurant staff speak fluent English.
Marianplatz
The largest and most central of the squares or piazzas in Munich is the Marianplatz. It is most likely your U- or S-Bahn destination from the Hauptbahnhof and the energetic core of the tourism industry.
Marianplatz and the new Rathaus – München, Germany
The Marianplatz is girdled with high-end shopping, caffes and tourism shops. It also has many historical monuments and fountains, as well as churches and other places of interest.
Neues Rathaus and Glockenspiel
Most people will likely concentrate on the Old City, Marianplatz where the Glockenspiel plays it’s tune everyday at eleven and twelve o’clock (sometimes at seventeen o’clock in the winter).
Neues Rathaus – München, Germany
Der Affenturm – München, Germany
Isar Tor – München, Germany
It plays a rather long ditty that includes the operation of the top and then the bottom carousel of automatons.
Altstadt-Lehel
This region of München lies just to the north of the old city, or Altstadt. Here is where you will find the palaces, gardens and other grand accoutrements of the city.
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English Gardens
A large garden located to the north of the main part of the city, it is a very nice place to visit on a sunny day. A large city park with many different things to see and experience, it even has a place that people go to surf, if one can believe such a thing can exist away from the coast in a city.
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
English Gardens – München, Germany
Eisbachwelle
Just on the south east end of the gardens you will discover the river Eisbach and the Eisbachwelle. This is a fast moving stream that has been conveniently modified through the use of carefully placed stones into a haven for surf-boarders. It’s amazing to stop for a bit just to see their skill and how they are able to throw their boards in and hop on in all but an instant, truly remarkable.
Eisbachwelle – München, Germany
Eisbachwelle – München, Germany
Maximiliansanlagen and the Isar
Another great place for a stroll is Maximilian’s garden. A very well kept park which stretches along the Isar and the Isarinsel or island that provides a cool contemplative place for de-stressing and an escape from the warm summer midday.
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Here you will find the Friedensengel monument and several other interesting points of interest. The two bridges that bound it, the Luitpoldbrücke and the Maximiliansbrücke provide pedestrian friendly points of entry.
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Isar below the Great Cascades – München, Germany
The Isar – Luitpoldbrücke – München, Germany
The Isar – München, Germany
Of note are the Große Kascaden, or Great Cascades, a series of weirs and fish ladders that provide a series of small waterfalls. The Wehr WKW-Praterkraftwerk, or power station, is built into the structure to provide electric power to the city. Through thoughtful design of constructing flood control they have provided electricity as well.
Restaurants
We spent time at the following restaurants. Some are must see, even though the food will not be up to expectations. We found the smaller establishments to be better, especially the service and cleanliness.
Hofbräuhaus
Well, perhaps the largest and most well-known beerhall in München, the Munich Hofbräuhaus is as large and as busy as it will get in a place to eat. They have a gift shop to match your expectations for a large one liter glass.
Entrance – Hofbräuhaus – München, Germany
Carved face – Hofbräuhaus – München, Germany
The band was great and our food was okay. Service is always going to be a problem at such a large establishment, that’s why I prefer the smaller places.
However, if you can overlook the local fauna, an interesting place to eat and drink. I have found a lack of service usually indicates a lack of cleanliness; if they cannot serve you, they cannot clean properly either – just a thought. In any case, one of the go-to places and a must see. Have a drink and if the fauna bother you, avoid the rest of the menu.
Salad – Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Sauerbraten with Knudel – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Der Pschorr
Another very good place for German food, perhaps the best that we had while in Munich. The service was very good as well, they kind of went out of their way to welcome families with children. You will find the place open and inviting with a good menu and food. Jett, Meagan and Jason’s baby ate for free, something not seen too often today.
Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Salad – Der Pschorr restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim
One of Dana’s picks and an attempt to find that authentic German restaurant look and feel. It was really close, we found only one waiter that spoke English here, the others spoke German for the most part, though I was confident they could completely understand English.
Entrance – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Old Augustiner faß – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Dana, Meagan, Jett, Jason and Patti – Burg Pappenheim restaurant – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl
Overall a good place for German food. The service is better and the staff seems more attentive to customer needs. The food is also better, both tastier and presentation-wise. They can also accommodate larger families without the squeeze. There is however no band, so if you are looking for the Umpa-band look and feel, you will not find it here.
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
Augustiner am Platzl – München, Germany
The food and service were very good and the atmosphere a mix of old and new Bavaria. This restaurant is a bit out of the way and a bit of a walk from the city center, but worth the visit.
Zum Dürnbräu
Here we had a pleasant meal outside not far from our hotel, even though the weather was a bit questionable with rain possible. The service was a bit slow, but the food was good and we had a very good time. The sauerbraten was first rate and I got to try the Apfelküchle, or fried apple rings with cinnamon and light sugar, which I found delightful.
Entrance and terrace – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Sauerbraten with Knudel – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Apfelküchle – Zum Dürnbräu – München, Germany
Tavernetta Cucina con Pizza
After some time German food creates issues that only Italian food can cure. When you come to this Rubicon, you can cross by considering a place like Tavernetta, where you can enjoy some Italian food. They have a good menu, good service and the prices are not astronomical.
Entrance – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Sign – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Small Caprese – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Tagliatelle Bolognese – Tavernetta Cucina with Pizza – München, Germany
Not having an abundance of time, we decided to stay somewhat local a few times and visit Mainz and Frankfurt, both of which are but a stone’s throw away from Offenbach. Since we have been to both several times, we wanted to show other family members these two cities and will post mostly photographs without a lot of text.
Mainz
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Restaurants
While in Mainz, we stopped at one of our favorite restaurants, or in this case a Wine house (Weinhaus), that our friends Karl Heinz and Isolde Seegräber introduced us to in the course of one of our earlier visits.
With a cohort of eight, we found it impossible with only one car to make a day trip on the weekend of August the 17th, so we took the Regional Train direct from Offenbach Hauptbahnhof (Hbf). In 25 mintues with the RE51 you can be in Gelnhausen, or with the RB51 slightly longer; both operate often and at regular intervals.
Overlook of the town – Gelnhausen, Germany
Gelnhausen
An unusual destination for non-Germans, Gelnhausen does not offer much but a change of scenery, a lazy stroll in the park and perhaps different opportunities to eat.
Kinzig River – Gelnhausen, Germany
Ziegelturm – Gelnhausen, Germany
Kinzig River – Gelnhausen, Germany
Ziegelturm – Gelnhausen, Germany
Schmidtgasse – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
The town is separated into lower and upper market places, or Unter- and Obermarkt, both of which act as parking lots for locals and visitors alike. Since we took the train, the entry to the town was over the Kinzig river and through the Ziegelturm.
Houses of timber – Gelnhausen, Germany
Innenstadt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Untermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Hotel in the Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Walking the narrow streets of Gelnhausen the visitor will notice numerous timber houses with sayings on them. In many towns, this is an old practice which has been used probably for centuries, either to provide some humor or commentary on the events of the time.
More sayings – Gelnhausen, Germany
Pfarrgasse – Gelnhausen, Germany
Cute sayings on house – Gelnhausen, Germany
Very old house – Gelnhausen, Germany
More timber houses – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Altstadt Hotel – Gelnhausen, Germany
On the other end of town, after the Obermarkt you can wander through the Holzgasse Tower to find the old town wall. Here you will enjoy a very nice park with an overlook of the town and surrounding area.
No weather maintenance (snow) – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Town – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Town overlook from wall – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
Not far from the entrance is a memorial to the fallen soldiers of the town from the two world wars.
War Memorial – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
War Memorial – Stadtgarten Halbmond – Gelnhausen, Germany
The town also has a few other monuments or fountains worth visiting.
Schoeller memorial – Gelnhausen, Germany
Statue in the Obermarkt – Gelnhausen, Germany
Stadtplan – Gelnhausen, Germany
Old town fountain – Gelnhausen, Germany
Restaurants
There are many restaurants in this small town, though few were open. However, from what we could tell, there would be many cuisines to choose from had the other restaurants been open.
Malamatina’s Greek Restaurant
Off the beaten path and not far from the Obermarkt, is Malamatina’s Greek restaurant. Though the sign says, Greek and German food, we didn’t see much in the way of German food on the menu..
A thirty minute drive from Frankfurt on the A3 is the lazy, old town of Idstein, Germany. Frequently overlooked by tourists, this small little town, nestled on the other side of the Taunus mountains, is a favorite of cyclists and other outdoor enthusiasts.
Erick & Patti – Marktplatz – Idstein, Germany
Marktplatz – Idstein, Germany
Innenstadt Altstadt – Idstein, Germany
We happened to visit on a lark, having visited many of the other towns in the area. It has a cute Innenstadt and Marktplatz that has several restaurants of various cuisines, all of which seem to be reasonably priced.
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The town also has a very large tower, called the “Hexenturm”, which may be ascended, if you are inclined to seeing a panorama of the town and neighboring countryside. It was fairly hot out and the tower is pretty tall, so we declined.
Kanzeleitor – Idstein, Germany
Hexenturm – Idstein, Germany
Ericka & Gabi – Hexenturm – Idstein, Germany
Kanzeleitor – Idstein, Germany
Hexenturm – Idstein, Germany
Pestalozzischule – Idstein, Germany
Other than that, the town is apparently noted for its schools or gymnasium. But for the tourist, it is just a nice place to spend a weekend afternoon strolling the streets and after a nice lunch, stopping for ice cream at the local ice cream parlor.
Restaurants
For a small town on a weekend, the town has a surprising amount of restaurants. All of which, appear to be very busy.
Deutsches Haus
Regardless of the name, which obviously must be a vestige of the prior establishment, the Deutsches Haus is a fine place to stop for a lunch. It serves Greek cuisine and has a variety of salads and cold plates to choose from on a hot day, or heavier fare, if you are more hungry. All I can say is the Greek salad with Feta is first rate. Our bill came to about 20€/person with drinks, which we felt was reasonable.
Deutsches Haus – Greek Restaurant – Idstein, Germany
The Matterhorn Express, the last leg of our journey here, is the longest of the rides you may take with the Peak Pass. It covers the gondola ride from Zermatt via Furi, all the way up to Klein Matterhorn and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
The Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
The gondola ride is fairly long and one can hop-on and hop-off and several different places along the way.
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt below – Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Schwarzsee
This is about the third stop on the way up and is after Furi. It is just up over massif that separates the high peaks from the valley floor below. In fact, as you go up the hill on the gondola ride you cannot see the Matterhorn until you just about reach Schwarzsee.
Matterhorn at the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Mattertal and Zermatt from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Weisshorn and other peaks from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Denta Blanche from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at the Zermatt – Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another stop just before Klein Matterhorn is the Trockener Steg. It lays at around eleven thousand feet in elevation, so you will feel some relief from the elevation once you arrive here on the way back down.
Patti and the Matterhorn – Trockener Steg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Klein Matterhorn
The top of the Klein Matterhorn is a cold, snowy and glacier dominated place. It has a commanding view of the Mattertal towards Zermatt and the Aosta Valley inside Italy. From here the Matterhorn looks very different, taking on the appearance of the rest of the horns, as the high peaks in this area are called.
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Crystal glacier experience – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Aosta valley, Italy – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and surrounding peaks – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti and the Aosta valley, ItalyTheodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Aosta valley – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
The tunnel that has been carved out into the glacier was probably once done on behalf of scientific curiosity and has now become a tourist attraction, complete with ice carvings. An interesting, if not very cold attraction. In order to thoroughly enjoy this you should be properly dressed, it is very cold.
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Conclusion
A must see trip and not for the faint of heart. If you have issues with height, be prepared, the gondola ride brings you across chasms that are quite deep and the gondolas are complete glass, so it will seem as though you are suspended in air. Here are a few videos where you can get an appreciation for what to expect.
We really enjoyed our day on the Matterhorn Express and would recommend it to anyone with plans to visit Zermatt. This concludes our visit to Zermatt, Switzerland.
Coming into Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Patti with the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another must see place in Zermatt is Gornergrat. You can reach this promontory by using the Gornergrat train, a mountain rack railway, which ascends the mountain passed Riffelalp and Riffelberg.
There are several stops besides these two along the way that one may decide to leave the train and just walk or hike. However, unlike Sunnegga and Blauherd, the terrain here is a bit more unforgiving and vertical. Also, the weather on top of the mountains can be cold and unpredictable, so bring something warm and something waterproof, especially if you are hiking.
Looking towards Dent Blanche – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat station – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward Zermatt and Mattertal – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Chapelle du Gornergrat – Bernhard von Aosta – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat Glacier
The height of the trip is the summit and the Gornergrat Glacier. Aside from this, this isn’t much to see, especially in marginal weather when the Matterhorn is obscured.
Panorama of Gorner Glacier – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Riffelberg
On the way down we stopped at Riffelberg, with the hopes of getting some hiking in down to Riffelalp. However, the weather was not looking very good and we were still suffering from our colds, so we decided against it.
View from Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Wanderwege – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Tall Peaks across the valley Matter – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Here are some short videos that were taken of our trip.
Restaurants
We did not eat at the restaurant on the summit, but rather waited until we were back in Zermatt. We left around ten in the morning and were already back a little after noon.
China Garden
Any one seeking good Chinese food at very reasonable prices has to visit the China Garden.
China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti at China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
They have all the dishes which are prepared with continental ingredients and taste delicious. For those that prefer their lunches uncomplicated, here you can definitely find some vegetarian or simple to order.
Spring roll – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Vegetable rice with vegetable mix – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
And of course, after lunch the day would not be complete this week without the customary rain storm. Actually, this was just a gentle shower, later in the day we had a very severe thunderstorm. But we were inside the hotel by then and did not care. Again, the weather can be unpredictable here, so be prepared and check the forecast, they are for the most part reliable.
Tomorrow it’s on to Matterhorn Glacier, so we will be taking the Matterhorn Glacier Express.
Part of the reason for even going to Zermatt has to be the hiking. Not only are the views breathtaking, even on a marginal day, but the air is fresh and clean and very enjoyable. And then there are the mountains, Zermatt has them and much more.
Panorama at Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt
To get anywhere, aside from the town, will require time, energy and a lot of walking. Or, you can purchase tickets to get up the mountains. These can be purchased separately, multi-day pass or the flexi-pass. We found the multi-day pass to be perfect for our needs, since we had no intention of skipping any days (they get a small premium for the flexi-pass, not sure why). The Peak Pass that we purchased, allowed us to travel to all three experiences, the Rothorn (Sunnegga-Blauherd), Gornergrot and the Matterhorn Glacier Experience.
The Peak Pass – Tickets For Two – Zermatt, Switzerland
Sunnegga
To get to Sunnegga and Blauherd you can either employ one of the hiking trails or take the cable car up to Sunnegga. From there you can start your hike or take a gondola ride to Blauherd, which gets you closer to the Stellisee, if that is your destination. From there however, you will have to hike.
The gondola ride goes up and down over some very treacherous terrain. So we decided we would take the gondola ride up and hike back down to Sunnegga.
Sunnegga station – Zermatt, Switzerland
Blauherd – Stellisee
The Stellisee is a good fifteen minute hike from the Blauherd gondola terminal over rather even, if not slightly downward sloping terrain. It is rather easy and should afford most people no difficulties.
Road and hiking trail to Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti ready to hike – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Stellisee hiking sign – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti with Matterhorn backdrop – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Stellisee is a rather barren, pristine alpine lake nestled on the side of the Unterrothorn. Many people will usually hike up to the refuge on the other side, but since the conditions were not ideal, we decided to just take a photograph of it and start our hike back down.
Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Murmelweg
Named for the eponymous animal that has made the territory it goes through its home, the Murmelweg is a casual, if not easy hiking trail back to Sunnegga. There are a few technical areas, but nothing that most people will find impossible to pass. I would wear hiking boots though, the trail goes over rocky terrain and a good boot will help stabilize your ankles and aid your hike.
Hiking sign back to Sunnegga – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Taking the Murmelweg to Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland
Trail behind looking towards Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
The below video is a fairly good example of what to expect.
We chose this route over the five lakes trail, which you can actually see as you hike this trail, only because we heard that route was rather boring after about the first two lakes. However, if you have the time and motivation, I would commend it, since it has more elevation changes and a bit more challenging than this trail.
Erick and the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Trail turns into rocks – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti on the Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti leading the way – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
A murmel hole – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Geodetic marker – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and adjacent peaks – looking towards RiffelalpAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
The area of Findeln and Gornergrat below – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Getting close to trail end – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our Route – Map
The following reference map details our trail route. The route was a bit over two miles with only a few hundred feet elevation decline and took us about an hour and a half to complete, stopping frequently for photographs.
Blauherd-Stellisee-Murmelweg-Sunnegga Trail – All Trails – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
Osteria Bella Italia
Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
An Italian restaurant that is part of hotel on the Bahnhofstrasse, the Osteria Bella Italia is what my wife and I call and overpriced, corporate dining establishment serving food they want to be Italian. It’s not bad, but the preparation is what I would say a bit sub-optimal. Then there are the prices. I paid 22CHF for a small bowl of pasta with garlic and oil, totally unheard of in Italy.
Cauliflower soup – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
This week we traveled by train from Turin to Zermatt, Switzerland in the hopes of enjoying the weather and the clean air. There is plenty of clean air, but the weather has remained extremely variable, with it almost always raining in the afternoons.
Zermatt train station – Zermatt, Switzerland
After we got off the EuroCity train in Visp we had to take the local train from there to Zermatt. These trains are run by the canton and are especially equipped to ascend to the 5200ft elevation we needed to ascend in order to get to our destination.
Unfortunately, our first attempt failed and the train that we were on broke down at its first stop. We had to wait approximately a half an hour before another arrived to complete our journey.
Zermatt
Zermatt is considered a town by the local government and with a constant population of around five thousands, that would seem to be about correct. However, the bulk of the people that you find here are tourists. And as one would expect, the tourist population swells during the weekends as local Swiss and others from neighboring regions come to enjoy the alpine air.
Pfarrerkirche and Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking down the Mattertal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Bahnhofstrasse, the main street – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn shrouded in clouds – Zermatt, Switzerland
The town is divided by a river with is fed by the many glaciers that surround the town. However, the flow of this river is controlled by a dam and there are signs that warn those who want to sun themselves on the rocks along its banks, that water can be unexpectedly released and you can be swept down river. We actually witnessed the water level rise once due to the rain we had been receiving.
Gomerabach – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Area above Zermatt along the river – Zermatt, Switzerland
Old Zermatt
There are examples in the upper parts of Zermatt, of the original buildings that were used by the early residents. Some are still in use today. However, with the increased land prices, most have sold out and moved up valley to get away from the tourism gentrification.
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Older original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Tradition Julen
Our hotel is the four star The Tradition Julen hotel. It is one of the more pricier hotels in the area but the rooms are very cozy and comfortable. In fact, it is one of the few four star hotels that I have not had the displeasure of asking for something that should be already included in the room! The service is first rate and so far we are having a great stay. It is also close to the center of town, but kind of out of the way too, so you won’t get a lot of tourist walking by the hotel, which makes for a quieter stay.
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our week long stay here, we ate at an assortment of restaurants. The area does have its traditional food and our hotel actually houses a traditional Valais Stube which serves food like this, mainly raclette, beef fondues and other curiosities.
Stadel Restaurant
The first restaurant we stopped at that had just opened for the summer months. The service and food were good, but I have to knock them a bit for not having any sauerkraut – it is on the menu. It would have paired well with the Water Buffalo Bratwurst I had ordered and enjoyed.
Water Buffalo Gulash – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Water Buffalo Bratwurst with potatoes – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Hotel Julen Restaurant
Our hotel has its own restaurant that serves cosmopolitan cuisine. Due to weather complications, we were forced to stay in and enjoy what it had to offer one evening and were not disappointed. We thought the food was very good and the prices fair.
Cauliflower soup – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Traditional Wiener Schnitzel with french fried – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our initial feel for the town is good, it has excellent services and plenty of restaurants and bars. Some of the food can be pricey, but if you stick to the traditional German fare, the prices seem more reasonable. The people are very friendly and speak multiple language, especially English, so getting around should not be an issue.
So we are still here and our next plans included hiking and using the amazing funicular, cog railway and gondola system. I will make additional entries for those once we have completed and recuperated from them a bit. Until then, stay tuned.
An hour’s drive by car north of Frankfurt above the Taunus mountains you will find a small, quaint and often overlooked little town called Braunfels.
Panorama of Braunfels below – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Braunfels
The town of Braunfels in the Lahm valley in Hessen and on the famous German Timber-Frame Tourist Road. All of the houses in the Altstadt are of this type construction and most are fairly old, sixteenth and seventeenth century.
Ericka and Gabi – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
Houses – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
Main center square – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
Old tower and hotel with shield – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
The Altstadt lays to the east of the castle by the same name. Since it was built on the side of the same hill as the castle, some of the roads are pretty steep. Most are paved with cobbles and there are several signs, mostly if not exclusively in German, reminding visitors that the stones are uneven, slippery when wet, and the town and castle are not liable for any injuries, so watch you step when you visit.
Be Careful – Altstadt and Castel – Braunfels, Germany
The castle may be reached through the town via the Schloßstrasse, or on the other side of the hill via the Burgweg (this is where we parked).
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Kratzsteine
If you ever wondered why old towns such as Braunfels had these many corner stones, or Kratzsteine; the following sign explains it. The interesting thing here is, that although these are very common throughout older German cities and towns, you will not find many examples in Braunfels; making one wonder why someone posted a sign above an example of one, when there are so few throughout the town.
Why old town streets have Kratzsteine or cornering stones – Altstadt – Braunfels, Germany
The above can be translated loosely in English as the following.
The medieval cities had very narrow alleys, which were only meant for pedestrians and mule drawn carts. When horse drawn carriages came, they had difficulties trying to make the turns without slowing down. The hubs of the wheels or the side of the wagons would damage the buildings. In order to prevent this damage and the high cost of repairs, the home owners had to come up with something. They decided on giant house stones, or Kratzsteine, which were partially buried on the corners of the house. This forced the driver to avoid and swing their carriages wide, so they didn’t risk their wheels getting damaged from these strategically placed corner stones.
Castle Braunfels
Christian Christmas Tradition
In Germany there is an old religious custom on the twelfth day of Christmas, or what is more properly known as the Epiphany. On the evening of or the day of Epiphany the front door of the building is chalked with the pattern “yy * C + M + B * YY”. The CMB is short for the Latin phrase Christus mansionem benedicat, or in English, May Christ bless this house. The YY are the year divided up appropriately.
Epiphany blessing on door to Chapel – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Chapel inside the castle – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Chapel inside the castle – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Chapel organ – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany
Castle Innards
The courtyard of the castle is fairly large and surrounded by three walls and towers. The inside of the castle is typical for one of this period. The slideshow below finishes our tour of the castle and our visit to this very nice little town in Hessen.
