If you are looking for things to and have the time, the way to probably see the area around Grindelwald is with a package, like a three day pass. There are others to choose from and some can save you some serious money, if you plan correctly. Since we were kind of flying by the seat of pants, this being a rather long excursion for us, we decided to go the à la carte, even though we kind of knew what we wanted to see.
Grindwald First
Though included in several packages, you can purchase this tourist package separately. It cost us 62CHF per person with no discounts, which they constantly asked us for but would never tell us how you can obtain one of them (is that not typical Swiss).
Tickets For Two!
The View From The Cable Car
On Our Way Up
Pastoral Views Around Grindelwald
However, we enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. The alpine air, the walks and especially the views. Here is a slideshow on our way up the mountain Schwarzhorn for our amazing views of the Grindelwald Valley and the surrounding moutains.
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Here are also a few video clips of our ascent up the Schwarzhorn and to the Oberjoch ridge and Grindelwald First.
The Bachalpsee
After the Grindelwald First, and yes that actually just covers the walk around the Oberjoch cliff, there is also a nice hike to the Bachalpsee. It is signed as a fifty minute walk, but if you are with children and others, you may want to add ten or twenty minutes to your round trip time, just for talking and other diversions, like picture taking.
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The above slideshow details our lazy day trek to the Bachalpsee, a very nice walk to an alpine lake. A bit rocky along the way, but you can make it with a good pair of tennis shoes or sneakers.
That’s it for now, will be back tomorrow with more travel adventures.
We have been in Grindelwald for a day and it’s one of those unique places in the world, that have almost a storybook feel to it. Well, at least by visiting it, you can understand how this can happen with its majestic mountains, windy scenic roads and bucolic country feel.
Hotel Alpenhof
We arrived by train from Interlaken and made the modest trek up a steep incline to our accomodations, the Hotel Alpenhof. One can make an argument that everything here is on a steep incline, and they would be right.
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The hotel is what you would expect for typical alpine accomodations, rustic with that scenic charm and a commanding view of the mountains, especially the Eiger. Above is a slideshow of our charming suite and a few shots of the overview we have from our balcony.
Grindelwald – A Stroll Down Mainstreet
The town of Grindelwald is not quaint, but rather a mixture of alpine tourist shops, restaurants, bars and cafes, and the odd monument. It is surrounded by the pastoral countryside, which is dotted by working farms and alpine cottages and houses. Since pictures are worth a thousand words, for this first blog on Grindelwald, a slideshow of walking the length of mainstreet, all the way out of town towards the Grosse Scheidegg, is noteworthy.
After our stay in Offenbach, we headed to Switzerland using Germany’s ICE service. We of course experienced the customary breakdown, or what they like to call a Technische Störung, a German euphemism for someone committing suicide on the tracks, or just the Deutsche Bahn not being able to run a railroad. We have actually not ridden an ICE that did not have an issue, and from the comments we heard from the other Germans, they haven’t either.
Tickets For Two – Offenbach To Frankfurt
We arrived in Basel SBB too late for our connecting train, so after waiting a further half an hour, we finally made it to our destination, Interlaken, our stepstool to the Alps. Interlaken is a small city, sitting between two rather large lakes, the Thunersee and the Brienzersee.
Hotel Interlaken
Hotel Interlaken
Hotel Interlaken – Rainy Day In The Alps
Interlaken – Rainy Day In The Alps
Interlaken – Rainy Day In The Alps
Interlaken – The Main Park
We stayed at the Hotel Interlaken, a four star hotel half way between the train station and the center of town, and handsomely situation across from the main park. Though it worked out well because of the rain, you should not worry about the location of any hotels in Interlaken, the city is not large enough to be too far away from either the Interlaken-West or Interlaken-Ost train stations.
Interlaken – The City
The actual city is what I would call confused. It appears, it does not know its identity, or what it wants to be. It appears to be conflicted between being a tourist town, a normal town for residence, or just a waypoint on someone’s map (train stop).
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It has both expensive hotels, restaurants and casinos, and then less fortunate areas within a block of one another. Several areas look destitute, some historic (like around the tourist museum), others more disconsulate – where stores have actually closed.
Amazing Views Of Interlaken – Without Clouds
Loucherhorn, Sulegg and Morgenberghorn – From The Main Park
Loucherhorn, Sulegg and Morgenberghorn – From The Main Park
End Of Augstmatthorn
Unfortunately, while we were there, all it did was rain for two days. But, I would rather have it rain in Interlaken, than in Grindelwald, which was our ultimate destination on this trip. To be fair, we were using it as a rest stop anyway, so no fuss, no foul. In any case, we got one day, the day we left, to get some amazing photographs of the mountains without clouds surrounding them.
As for recommending any restaurants in the area, we cannot. There are a lot of closed restaurants, an affect of the virus. The ones that are still open are fine, overpriced, like all food in Switzerland, but none remarkable. Hopefully others that travel behind us may have better luck when the city recovers a bit more. Now, on to Grindelwald, the Eiger and the Jungfrau, Tschüß!
Situated between the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine rivers sits the city of Koblenz. The city, having been repeatedly bombed during the war, has been rebuilt and in some sections in the old style.
Koblenz – The Rhine and Moselle – Overlook From The Restaurant Casino – Ehrenbreitstein
We began our whirlwind tour of Koblenz in Ehrenbreitstein, the location of the Fortess that overlooks the two rivers.
Festung Ehrenbreitstein
The Festung Ehrenbreitstein, or Fortress Ehrenbreitstein, is located atop of the hill across the Rhine from Koblenz, with a commanding view of both. There is a very nice park there, called the Festungspark, which includes an overlook of the rivers and several walking paths.
The fortress itself is about a half of a kilometer away from the parking for the park. But, there is also parking for it as well, if you continue to drive past the park. The problem with the parking is it get’s rather full quickly, and there is also a charge. But there is ample parking along the access road, so avail yourself of that if the parking is full.
Fortress Tickets For Two
The fortress has several interesting floors of exhibits, dedicated to the buildings history and its uses. The exhibits go back to the Roman times and there are several examples of Roman currency, pottery and other tools. Additionally, there are more modern examples of cannon and other military weapons. Here is a short slideshow of some of the exhibits.
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Koblenz – Parts Of The City
We were not able to see all of the city, due to some constraints on our time, but we still saw enough of it to get the feeling it’s a very vibrant city.
Historical Koblenz
There are plenty of tourists and with numerous cafes and restaurants, there are no problems to sit down and have a drink or something to eat.
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There are also stark differences between the old and newer sections, one trying to hold onto the past by cobblestones and fachwerk houses, the other marching into the future with malls and boutique stores, supplied by a seemingly busy bus network.
Deutsches Eck
The Deutsches Eck, or German Corner, is the point at which the confluence of the Rhine meets the Moselle. There is also a large park here and several landmarks to visit.
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It is also the launch point for several Rhine river boat tours, including the familiar Viking River Boat Cruises. We enjoyed our day in Koblenz, it holds many interesting places to visit, too many for a single day tour. But even with one day, there is plenty to do and enjoy.
Salzburg is the name for both the state and capitol of Salzburg. It is also the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, arguably a genius and the most accomplished musician and composer of all time.
Mozart’s Birth House
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart also lived in Salzburg, along with his family. One can visit the Mozart Wohnhaus, which today is a museum. The cost for entry is around 12€ per person, 10€ for senior citizens. There are also family and group rates. The fee comes with an audio guide which is filled more with music than biographical data. The museum has quite a collection of artifacts from his life, especially numerous letters he wrote to his wife. One can go through the entire six rooms in less than an hour.
Mozart’s House
While in the museum you will learn some interesting facts about the composer, for example his stature. He was on one and half meters, or fifty-eight, fifty-nine inches or about five feet tall. I guess what he lacked in height he gained in his ability to play and compose extraordinary pieces of music. Worth a visit if you have the time.
A Walkable City
Salzburg is by every measure, very walkable. The city also enjoys a very robust electric bus system and plenty of alternative forms of transportation, including bicycles, electric personal scooters and even river boats.
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Mirabellgarten
The Mirabellgarten in Salzburg is a great place to take some time back from walking and the general hustle and bustle of seeing the sights. It is located toward the river Salzach on the East side of the city.
The garden belongs with the Schloss Mirabell, which is an imposing structure and site. It has ample seating and benches along its borders to sit and enjoy the flowers and its grand fountain, the Vier-Elemente-Brunnen.
Hohensalzburg Fortress
The Hohensalzburg Fortress sits atop the Festungsberg, or fortress hill, of Salzburg. It has a commanding view of the city and the countryside. Apparently build in four stages it became a formidable fortress in its hayday.
The View from Festung Hohensalzburg
For around 12€, the basic entry pass get’s a trip on the fernicular rail to the top and back and entrance in to most areas of the castle, excluding the bishop’s quarters. The entire reason for even having a fortress is to command military might in the region, the fortress has several rooms around this theme.
Examples of World War I Soldiers and Outposts
Examples of World War I Soldiers and Outposts
Examples of World War I Soldiers and Outposts
There is also a Marionette or Puppet Museum on the premises. It has several works by a famous Puppeteer Master and several diorama around their history and use. A very interesting museum for the younger audience.
The remainder of the fortress includes the history of the actual structure, how people lived inside its walls and the involvement of the church in it’s operations. Here are some additional scenes from the fortress.
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Finally, residents of Salzburg are often referred to as Stierwasher or “Bull Washers”. This epithet comes from a tale out of the Siege of the Fortress during the great Peasants’ Uprising. Apparently the fortress was staring to run out of food and one soldier had a great idea. He took the bull that was left and painted it a color, then he went down and show his enemies the bull. He did this for several days, painting the bull a different color each day. At some point the enemies decided the fortress still had too much food and they would never be starved out, so they retreated and left. A happy ending, I guess, except it took the population several days to wash all the paint that had accumulated on the bull, giving them the name Bull Washers!
Salzburger Bull Washers
Kapuziner Kirche Und Kloster
The Kapuziner Kirche and Kloster sits atop of Salzburg, with an amazing overlook of the city. There is a short climb to get up there, but once there, the overlook is great.
Entrance
Religious Stations Along The Way
Steps – The Way Up
Kloster
Church
Salzburg
Salzburg
Salzburg And The Way Up
Trails On Top Of Kapuzinerberg
Imbergstiege – The Way Down
Unfortunately, we had a rather rainy morning when we ascended to take our photographs, but they still came out pretty well.
Restaurants
While in Salzburg we visited the following notable restaurants.
Gasthof Alter Fuchs
The Gasthof Alter Fuchs is a typical Austrian restaurant, serving typical cuisine for the area. They have, “die beliebten Klassiker der österreichischen Küche“, or the most beloved classic of Austrian cuisine, Wiener Schnitzel and more on the menu.
Potato Soup
Mixed Salad with Chicken and Toast
Boiled Beef with Vegetables
Apfelstrudel
Everything we ordered was delicious and with wine and water it all came to less than 50€!
Sternbräu Biergarten
The Sternbräu Restaurant and Biergarten is billed as delivering authentic Austrian cuisine. Their menu seems to be full of unfamiliar items, for example Salzburger Nockerl, and many favorites like Bratwurst. A very busy and large place that seems to have many servers, but even so, you may find service a bit slow.
Beer Garden Entrance
Soup with Pretzel
Patti enjoying Lunch
Ready to eat Bratwurst
Bratwurst Platter
Salzburger Nockerl
We were hungry, so had a rather big lunch that included wine, water and the items shown above. Budget-wise, this place is a bit more expensive than some others, so be prepared to pay a small premium for wine and perhaps even beer. Our entire lunch came to 69€.
Cafe Tomaselli
Apparently one of the places for a drink to go in Salzburg is Cafe Tomaselli. They also serve breakfast and some other small things like ice cream. We stopped here for a quick drink and found the prices fair and drinks very good.
Campari and Soda – The Elegant Way
We ordered an Iced Coffee with Vanilla Ice Cream and a Campari with Soda and the bill came to 11.60€
Gasthof Wilder Mann
Another great place for lunch is the Gasthof Wilder Mann. The Eintopf, or soup we can say is fresh and first rate. We had the Vegetable Beef Eintopf, which came with a lot of beef, yellow and orange carrots and thin spaghetti noodles. It was spiced just right and delicious.
Gasthof Wilder Mann
Eintopf
Mixed Salad with Chicken
We also order water, white wine, a Mixed Salad with Chicken, coffee and schnaps, and our bill came to 44€.
There is no trip to Klagenfurt am Wörthersee worth its while, without visiting its namesake, the Wörthersee. A short twelve minute ride on the S1 train to Pörtschach am Wörthersee, will put you directly in the middle of the lake. We thought it a great place to take a day trip.
Pörtschach am Wörthersee
Our plan was to take the train from Klagenfurt Hbf, see the town, walk around the lake a bit, enjoy a nice lunch and then take a boat ride back to Klagenfurt. The weather was beautiful and everything went according to plan. Well almost, we actually stretched it out a bit, since the weather was so nice.
Pörtschach am Wörthersee
This little town is perhaps the main spot along the entire lake. Though we did not go to Velden, it had the look and feel of a long established tourist town for local Austrians. This appears to be their place to come, relax, play, eat and generally have fun. Here is a quick slideshow of the views along the lake.
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There is also a waterpark on the Spitz, that requires a fee to enter, but provides everything from sunbathing and waterslides into the lake, to picnicing for the day on the small island.
The town is some three hundred meters or so from the actual lake, but gives you the impression that it is a laid back tourist town. There are many amenities and stores for tourists to shop in, including bike rentals, hiking and trekking gear, etc.
Pörtschach Main Steet
Pörtschach Main Street
Pörtschach – Petrified Tree
Pörtschach – Petrified Tree
Pörtschach Church
Pörtschach Beautiful Resorts
The Lake Boat Ride
There is a boat, in fact I think there are several, the travels up and down the lake carrying passengers from one small town to the next. It runs every hour or so and takes over an hour to complete the full length of the lake itself. It is another nice way to take short trips all along the lake, or just a nice gentle boat ride to see the lake for itself.
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Well that’s just about it for Pörtschach and the Wörthersee. We have a great day seeing it and enjoying a nice lunch along the water. The weather was just gorgeous. Here are a few video clips while we were on the boat.
On to other places of interest, next stop, Salzburg.
Gruss Gott! This is the customary greeting when you visit Austria. Though many speak English here, they will still use this greeting upon meeting you. So, become an Austrian for a day and smile and say it back, it’s easy.
Nestled in the heart of Carinthia is its capitol, Klagenfurt am Wörthersee. Though at first a bit abstract and hard to get a feel for it, after a few days stay and talking to the people in their own language, we have actually become very comfortable with this happy little city. It is quite open at the moment showing little affects of the pandemic, though one can see the occasional store closed (though it might not be related.)
The Capitol’s Main Sights
There are of course several sites here to see, some religious, some governmental and others historic. The best way to show this is a quick slide show, since there really is no better way to cover so much succintly.
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Lindwurmbrunnen
An interesting Brunnen, or fountain, is the Lindwurnbrunnen in Neuer Platz. This fountain is actually central to the fable or history of the creation of Klagenfurt.
Lindwurmbrunnen
Fable Inscription
The inscription tells some of the tale in a very abbreviated form. The actual fable or story unfolded more like the following.
A Lindwurm once lived in the swamp around Klagenfurt. The river that flows through the city often flooded. This threatened travelers and city dwellers and a Dragon was thought to be the cause of these floods. It was actually a Lindworm. The Duke offered a reward for which some men tied a bull to a chain and offered it to the Lindwurm. When it took the bate, it was hooked and then swiftly killed.
Wörtherseemandl
The Wörtherseemandl is a small tourist attraction close to the sister city pavement marker. I do not think there is much meaning behind it, other than a piece of art that someone created for the city.
Restaurants
We visited only two restaurants while in the city proper, one was Italian, which will not be covered since it is not Austrian. Though if you are ever in the city and looking for Italian food there are several restaurants around.
Haus am Markt
The HAM, or the Haus am Markt restaurant is typical Austrian, or more precisely Carinthian food.
Haus am Markt
Haus am Markt – Ummm Bier
Haus am Markt – Hühnersuppa mit Fadenknödeln
Haus am Markt – Wiener Schnitzel and Fries with Currant Sauce
A small clip of the Oom-pa Two Person band we enjoyed while eating, how Austrian!
We go next to the actual Wörthersee for a special day and boat trip on the lake. So stay tuned! Auf Wiedersehen!
Venture far from Sachsenhausen or Süd-Frankfurt, or a short stop on your way to Hanau (for whatever reason that may be), you will find the small city of Offenbach. One can say it’s one of those towns or cities that most resembles the new Germany, pluralistic, cosmopolitan and apparently an up-and-coming place. Our daughter lives here and has re-acclimated herself to the bigger city life, than she was used to when she lived in Kassel.
Marktplatz
Though we have no photographs, mostly due to a certain ambivalence on my part, one can say this is where the action is. It has many modern stores, a main pedestrian zone for shopping and several trendy, economical and interesting places to eat. There is a U-Bahn stop here, which can be easily reached from Frankfurt’sHauptbahnhof or main train station.
Other Areas
Around Offenbach’sMarktplatz, are many different areas for business and residential with the train station for the city slicing right through it. Though we use the Offenbacher Hauptbahnhof regularly, we have never considered looking for a place to eat near it. We were surprised to find a culinary gem not too far away!
ShauMAHL Restaurant
On a chilly, rainy evening with reservations for the Frankfurter Botschaft, we started our restaurant adventure on the Offenbacher Hauptbahnhof platform waiting for a DB train that would never arrive (perhaps another DB störung, they are famous for them as one of our previous blog articles describes; more on this in a later blog entry.)
ShauMAHL front entrance
Dismayed, we quickly canceled our current reservation and began a search for something comparable in the immediate area. We found ShauMAHL.
Patti and Erick, with view of the bar
One would say a rather expensive restaurant. However, as the saying goes (and we are technically on vacation, even though retired ?), “in for a penny, in for a pound!”
Tristan and Ericka before enjoying their meal
They offer a fixed-priced menu which provides a very round selection, from fish, fowl to meat.
Ericka’s veal confit dish
I selected the rabbit dish with green sauce which was excellent. Rabbit, rabbit meatballs, barley, ummmm, good.
Erick’s Kannichen (rabbit) dish
For drink, I selected a nice regionally (Württemberg) produced red, Graf von Neipperg, merlot, 2015 (€79), very nice (I think I used the word ‘okay’ while trying it, much to the dismay of the waitress.) It has all the qualities of being a really good wine. But lest I go into wine snobbery, my bar (bar as in a high-jump bar, a bar to get over) is a 1986 or 1989 Chateau Lynch Bages, need I say more?
Expresso and flaming Sambucca
For dessert we chose whatever we were more inclined to eat, Erick the Apfelstrüdel, Patti and Ericka the ice cream and Tristan a coffee. Erick and Ericka still ordered an expresso with Sambuca straight-up.
For a rainy evening, an expensive (€410), though extraordinary find for a dismissed place like Offenbach.
Tonight we enjoyed dinner at the Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom, that again offered the bratwurst platters and other regional specialities.
Die Frauenkirche, München at night
The restaurant lays at the foot of the Frauenkirche. It is of course kind of a tourist trap, but the food is good.
My bavarian dinner
I ordered the Schweinhaxe and a side salad. The boiled dough is fairly heavy, so I could only eat one. But the meat was very good and the side salad has a potato salad surprise at the bottom.
My Bavarian dinner, consumed
As you can tell, I didn’t enjoy it at all.
Regardless, we decided on dessert and ordered Apfelkücherl with cinnamon and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. This of course forced us to pay before we ate anymore and then walk all the way back to the hotel in order to settle our stomach, even though we possessed a train group pass for the next few days.
The Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom in the evening
The subject restaurant is an inconspicuous hole in the wall that one would never think noted for its food. But it is worth every star it has on google and trip-advisor.
The quaint and cozy atmosphere inside is by no means palatial, it is made even smaller looking by all the woodwork. The confused decorum adds to this feeling, perhaps the owner’s attempt to appeal to the cafe, beer hall (evident by the pull down screen and beamer) and restaurant crowds.
Tristan waiting for food
However, for simple fare with an authentic chef’s twist it is difficult to beat!
Erick and Tristan’s Würstchen platterPatti’s Leberkäse platter
The wurst platter with sauerkraut and potato salad was just what a sausage lover would be looking for in a satisfying dinner. The Leberkäse, a regional speciality, turned out to be a bit less exciting and compared more to a meatloaf made out of hotdogs. Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
My preferred route to a diabetic coma – Apfelstrüdel
The Apfelstrüdel was of course a triumph and paired with a Macallans, I enjoyed every mouthful.
4.5 stars ?
Erick and Patti at Lollo Rosso – photo taken with my old selfie-stick arm
