Michelstadt, Germany – Odenwald Curiosity

On the border of Hesse and Bavaria, in the Odenwald, is the town of Michelstadt. It’s curious, because its name contains within it a word that most english speaking people would think it should be a city, when in fact, the germans use the denotation for both town and city. Technically, it is considered a Kleinstadt, or small city, or what we call a town and should carry the stadt on the end of its name.

Michelstadt

The town is one of the oldest within what is called the inner Odenwald. There has been some sort of settlement there ever since the eighth century. Like other small towns of this nature, its layout has a certain lazy circle about it, indicating it was protected by some kind of fortification or wall. Evidence of this can be found on Kellerbergstraße, where part of the wall remains, and Mauerstraße where it can be seen in its former glory.

Getting There

To get to Michelstadt you will take either the 45 or 47 from the north or the south. On the north of town is a very large parking area which we used, conveniently located close to the town’s center.

Town Hall

The Town Hall, or Rathaus, is one of the more prominent buildings in the town. It stands a bit off-center in the Marktplatz and has an old press, a scale and other items associated with the buildings history in the open area underneath it.

The Marktplatz contains a main foutain, which the town appears to decorate for holidays and other occasions.

Michelstadt Fortress

The Michelstadt Fortress, or Burg Michelstadt, is probably more of a stronghold than any castle or fortress. Though it sits on a high wall with a moat, it is not as impressive as other german castles or fortresses. Today it houses a mill museum, which unfortunately was not open at the time of our visit.

Diebsturm

The Diebsturm, or Thieves’ Tower, is part of and sits next to Burg Michelstadt. The sump or cellar of the tower was used as a prison starting sometime in the early fourteenth century. Prisoners were lowered down on a rope into the cellar to wait our their term. It is one of the more prominent features of the town.

Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum

This museum preserves the jewish past of the town, neatly preserved in the former Synagoge Michelstadt that was destroyed during the prelude to the second world war.

Here one can get a sense of the small jewish population that used to inhabit the town, which also has numerous Stolpersteine[1]these are small brass memorials laid in the ground for jews and people who were killed, deported or driven to suizide commemorating the people of the town that lost their lives. They can be found throughout Germany and parts of Europe.

The museum also backs up to the old town wall and has a nice little park, where one can quietly sit and enjoy the weather.

Restaurants

Due to its size, there is not much to choose from, but there are a few restaurants in the Marktplatz. We chose a brewery close to the edge of town for lunch.

Michelstädter Rathausbräu

The Michelstädter Rathausbräu is a brewery and restaurant. It serves good food typical of the area. They don’t speak much english, so be prepared to whip out your translation guide or phone. However, the food is very good and they have their own brew on tap.

References

References
1 these are small brass memorials laid in the ground for jews and people who were killed, deported or driven to suizide

Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany – Bächle Everywhere

The one unique feature this city has over others that we have visited are its Bächle, or small streams or runnels that network themselves through most city streets. Though in the past they were used for waste disposal and fire suppression, their contemporary revision is much cleaner and used more for fun than anything functional.

Freiburg im Breisgau

The city lays on the lower west side of the Schwarzwald, or the Black Forest. It is an odd mixture of contemporary and renovated old buildings, but appears to be very liveable. They have an active tram system and local buses, though the residents do appear to enjoy walking for the most part.

Getting There

It is almost necessary to use the A5 to reach the city, though I imagine there might be other ways as well. We entered from the north, via Europaplatz, where we found adequate parking nearby. Europaplatz offers access to the tram system and might be a good starting point for those not wishing to walk.

The Bächle

The Bächle[1]the term is Bächlein in german are on most streets, at least in the older parts of the city. As a child, if you’ve ever had the occasion to play in a small stream or ditch, then you would just love Freiburg im Breisgau. They sure delight the city children. The city appears to be very child friendly and they even sell little boats on a string for children to play with in the Bächle.

Schwabentor

The Schwabentor, or Swabian Gate, is the most recent gate to the city and is located on Herrenstraße, another street which has a Bächle.

Freiburger Münster

The first bricks for the large gothik style Freiburger Münster, or Münster Unserer Lieben Frau, were laid around 1146. After several incantations as a small unassuming church through 1260, the church was redesigned with new importance in the late 1200s. It wasn’t until the late 1400s that it attained is final form one can see today.

Münsterplatz And Merchant’s Hall

The Münsterplatz is adjacent to the cathedral and includes several city buildings and businesses.

One historic building that stands out in Münsterplatz is the Historisches Kaufhaus, or Merchant’s Hall. With its striking red exterior it is impossible to miss and the result of contemporary renovations, having suffered bomb damage and other design changes throughout the years. The facade today is adorned with replicas of Holy Roman Emperors and an Archduke, who did not become emperor because he died before his father and didn’t inherit all of his father’s titles.

Augustinerplatz

Though not much to look at the Augustinerplatz is where the museum and several other important government buildings are located, including for us ironically, the Italian Consulate.

Connecting Augustinerplatz to Kaiser-Josephstraße is Gerberau street.

Martinstor

A major gate in the city, aside from the swabian gate, or Scwabentor, is Martinstor. Located on Kaiser-Josephstraße, more or less in the center of town, the tower stands above all the other buildings. The street runs directly through the tower, like in many other walled cities in Germany and delineates the old city from its newer parts.

Restaurants

For our day trip we chose to have chinese or japanese and found a nice modern place that opened in the remains of the old Laubfrosch restaurant.

Unkai

If you are looking for either chinese or japanese cuisine look no further than Unkai Asian Fusion.

The decor inside is decidedly modern and the staff is very attentive to your needs, especially if that has to do with children.

References

References
1 the term is Bächlein in german

Seligenstadt, Germany – Ancient Castral

Built around the ancient remains of an old Roman Castrum, Seligenstadt is one of Germany’s oldest towns. The Romans established a fortified encampment around the second century and maintained it for over a hundred and fifty years. Some time in the mid third century the germanic tribes repeatedly attacked the castrum, forcing the Romans to withdraw across the Rhine river, leaving a pile of rubble behind. Some time afterwards it was known as Obermühlheim and some of the earliest buildings in Seligenstadt are dated to the seventh century and are still standing.

A stone’s throw from one of the public parking places is the Wendelinuskapelle. A small chapel honoring Saint Wendel, patron saint of farmers and shepards. Built in the late 1800s it stands on the place of a former Heiligenhäuschen. The Baroque doorway is some 160 years older than the chapel itself and was taken from the west portal of the Seligenstadt Basilica, when it was renovated in 1868. The inside is rather plain and in need of some repair.

Seligenstadt

The three main attractions in this town are the Benedictine Monastery, the Einhard-Basilika and the town’s Marktplatz, or marketplace. One can also find along the Große Maingasse a ferry crossing that crosses the Main river, which separates Hesse from Bavaria.

For the most part the town appears to have been saved from the ravages of war. Many of the original timber houses still stand and many have historical markers on them, giving the passer-by a brief history of the structure before them.

Benedictine Monastery

The monastery, which was established by the Benedictines in 815, houses a museum now and a beautifully maintained garden overlooking the Main river.

Einhard-Basilika

Though started in the early ninth century as the Saint Marcellinus and Petrus church, it is currently known as the basilica of Einhard, who was one of Charlemagne’s closest friends and advisors. The facade of the church is neo-roman, though there are several other styles of note, including early gothic.

Marktplatz

While we were visiting, a political infomation event was being held in the marketplace, which includes the Rathaus. The area is surrounded by quaint little shops, cafes and government buildings.

Restaurants

The weather was cold, cloudy and wet, typical for this time of year. So, when it was time it was essential to find a warm place with good food, so Italian with a pizza oven sounded about right.

Ristorante & Pizzeria 1744

A modern restaurant with a surprisingly large staff was able to accomodate us for lunch. I would expect that during busier times, reservations might be recommended.

The food was excellent. We tried the soups and main pasta dishes, which most people around us seem to favor; so we cannot really speak about the quality of the pizza. They also have traditional italian coffee and other after dinner amenities.

Frankfurt, Germany – Some Eateries In The Area

Frankfurt, Germany – Some Eateries In The Area

We recently spent two weeks in the Frankfurt area with family. While we were there, we had the good fortune to visit a few new restaurants and a couple of old favorites.

Restaurants In Frankfurt

Lokal Bahnhof

Though we did eat at the Lokal Bahnhof in Frankfurt Süd, Darmstädter Landstraße 14, it was not remarkable enough to take any photographs. A nice enough place to eat for lunch, but aside from a quick bite, nothing special.

Restaurants In Offenbach

Papi Original Italian Ristorante

Located in Offenbach, at Friedrichsring 39, is an excellent place for an evening meal called Papi Original Italian. A favorite of our’s when we are in the area, it had good service and very good food. The menu has very good southern Italian dishes and pizza, so something for everyone.

Restaurants In Dreieich

Since we were staying in Dreieich, most of the restaurants we visited were in this small, quaint little town.

China Restaurant Hong Kong

The China Restaurant Hong Kong is located on Hauptstraße 8 on the main avenue of town. It has laterns outside, so is easily visible from your car as you drive passed it. However, it is also an easy walk from some of the nearby parking locations.

The food is good and they have a good variety on the menu, including Thai and some Vietnamese dishes.

Wirsthaus Leopolt

If you are actually looking for German food, look no further than Leopolt’s. They have weekly specials, as well as all the favorites and a variety of other dishes. It is also located in town at Hauptstraße 20.

La Rughetta Ristorante

On Eisenbahnstraße 38 is the Italian restaurant La Rughetta. A smaller establishment than the others, it has a small, comfortable atmosphere with a family cooking feel. The menu has your typical items on it and the food is very good, though you may have to wait some time before it appears, so bring your patience.

La Faggio

A newer, more upscale place to eat, that has the appearance of one of the in-places to go is La Faggio, located closer to the train station at Buchschlager Allee 19. Though the eating area is rather spacious, we had the impression there were not enough servers to adequately attend to everyone in a timely manner; so be prepared to wait longer, even to order.

Al Dente da Pino Ristorante

At the other end of town is Al Dente da Pino Ristorante at Dieselstraße 3. Again, an Italian restaurant with a friendly charm and comfortable atmosphere. The food is very good and the service prompt and friendly. Probably one of the better places in town to eat.

Restaurants In Dreieichenhain

A short stone’s throw away from Dreieich is Dreieichenhain, a medieval little touristy like town with a Roman Wall and Clock Tower Gate. We have been here several times and try a different place to eat, each time we visit. On the day of our visit it was for a small brunch.

Cafe Cult

A small cafe kind of in the middle of town. Modern, friendly and quick, they have something for most everyone. Including very good coffee and other drinks. The desserts look amazing, though we did not try any. The bagels are bread type bagels, not traditional jewish bagels, but sufficient for bagel sandwiches, which were very tasty.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany – Saved from destruction

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not doubt a miracle town amongst towns in Germany. Partially bombed during World War II, it took an American officer and the German commander of the city at the time to spare this town. The results of which, we are able to enjoy this middle-age town as it appears today, forty percent of which was nevertheless destroyed by allied bombing before it was stopped.

It is located in Bavaria and is about one and a half to two hours drive from the Frankfurt area on the A3 and A7, weather permitting of course. There are several parking areas to choose from for visitors, though we found street parking a block or so further out for free.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

If it weren’t for it’s strange history at the end of World War II, this town would be easily overlooked. Not necessarily by Germans, but definitely by international tourists always looking for some interesting sidebar or reason to visit. Luckily, even on a Saturday, we did not find it all that busy for a tourist destination. We only hope that it will stay that way.

Marktplatz

The center square hosts various shops and restaurants, as well as the Town Hall and Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower. Saint George’s fountain can also be found here toward the lower part of the square.

Towers

Rothenburg has many towers on all sides of the town, especially on the eastern side. The main entrance towers are of course grander, but the little ones are no less impressive.

The City Wall

It is one of only three towns in Germany which is still encompassed by a fully intact town wall. The eastern part of the wall, the one which we were actually able to walk on, was mostly repaired after its destruction at the end of the war.

Several parts are boarded up or unreachable, but many people from around the world contributed funds in the effort to reconstruct it, making it possible to enjoy it today. There are several main entry points, Gallows Gate, Thomas Tower and one near Ruckesse Tower, to name a few.

Restaurants

There are many restaurants to choose from in Rothenburg, many of which are located in or near the town square. Luckily, we failed on locating an Italian restaurant that was open, but it is August and the Italians are notorious for taking the entire month off for vacation. That forced to find the amazing place that we did below.

Reichsküchenmeister – Das Herz von Rothenburg

If you are able to obtain a seat in the garden, one of the go to places in Rothenburg for a weekend lunch or early dinner.

The garden is just amazing, a totally relaxed atmosphere where we were fortunate enough to have a very responsive waiter. The menu is varied enough where one should be able to find something to fit their culinary needs.

München, Germany – Family Get-Away

After spending a week in Frankfurt, we decided to spend some time in München, or Munich, Germany. The most affective way to do this from Frankfurt is by train, particularly the ICE DB service. In three hours and some odd number of minutes, you can travel between the two main train stations in comfort.

ICE Train to Munich – Storm Front – München, Germany

With most of the family here, we were seven and traveling by train such a short distance just made the most sense, since our daughter and son-in-law had our grandson along. This gave him some added room to walk around an annoy other people instead of just us, breaking up the monotony of the journey. Not really, but it did provide him enough space to get the wiggles out, as opposed to other modes of transport, like an airplane or automobile.

München

The largest city in Bayern, or Bavaria, Munich is a large, bustling city completely accustomed to tourists and tourism. If you are a mono-lingual English speaker, you will find no problem getting around in Munich, most of the residence and restaurant staff speak fluent English.

Marianplatz

The largest and most central of the squares or piazzas in Munich is the Marianplatz. It is most likely your U- or S-Bahn destination from the Hauptbahnhof and the energetic core of the tourism industry.

The Marianplatz is girdled with high-end shopping, caffes and tourism shops. It also has many historical monuments and fountains, as well as churches and other places of interest.

Neues Rathaus and Glockenspiel

Most people will likely concentrate on the Old City, Marianplatz where the Glockenspiel plays it’s tune everyday at eleven and twelve o’clock (sometimes at seventeen o’clock in the winter).

It plays a rather long ditty that includes the operation of the top and then the bottom carousel of automatons.

Altstadt-Lehel

This region of München lies just to the north of the old city, or Altstadt. Here is where you will find the palaces, gardens and other grand accoutrements of the city.

English Gardens

A large garden located to the north of the main part of the city, it is a very nice place to visit on a sunny day. A large city park with many different things to see and experience, it even has a place that people go to surf, if one can believe such a thing can exist away from the coast in a city.

Eisbachwelle

Just on the south east end of the gardens you will discover the river Eisbach and the Eisbachwelle. This is a fast moving stream that has been conveniently modified through the use of carefully placed stones into a haven for surf-boarders. It’s amazing to stop for a bit just to see their skill and how they are able to throw their boards in and hop on in all but an instant, truly remarkable.

Maximiliansanlagen and the Isar

Another great place for a stroll is Maximilian’s garden. A very well kept park which stretches along the Isar and the Isarinsel or island that provides a cool contemplative place for de-stressing and an escape from the warm summer midday.

Here you will find the Friedensengel monument and several other interesting points of interest. The two bridges that bound it, the Luitpoldbrücke and the Maximiliansbrücke provide pedestrian friendly points of entry.

Of note are the Große Kascaden, or Great Cascades, a series of weirs and fish ladders that provide a series of small waterfalls. The Wehr WKW-Praterkraftwerk, or power station, is built into the structure to provide electric power to the city. Through thoughtful design of constructing flood control they have provided electricity as well.

Restaurants

We spent time at the following restaurants. Some are must see, even though the food will not be up to expectations. We found the smaller establishments to be better, especially the service and cleanliness.

Hofbräuhaus

Well, perhaps the largest and most well-known beerhall in München, the Munich Hofbräuhaus is as large and as busy as it will get in a place to eat. They have a gift shop to match your expectations for a large one liter glass.

The band was great and our food was okay. Service is always going to be a problem at such a large establishment, that’s why I prefer the smaller places.

However, if you can overlook the local fauna, an interesting place to eat and drink. I have found a lack of service usually indicates a lack of cleanliness; if they cannot serve you, they cannot clean properly either – just a thought. In any case, one of the go-to places and a must see. Have a drink and if the fauna bother you, avoid the rest of the menu.

Der Pschorr

Another very good place for German food, perhaps the best that we had while in Munich. The service was very good as well, they kind of went out of their way to welcome families with children. You will find the place open and inviting with a good menu and food. Jett, Meagan and Jason’s baby ate for free, something not seen too often today.

Burg Pappenheim

One of Dana’s picks and an attempt to find that authentic German restaurant look and feel. It was really close, we found only one waiter that spoke English here, the others spoke German for the most part, though I was confident they could completely understand English.

Augustiner am Platzl

Overall a good place for German food. The service is better and the staff seems more attentive to customer needs. The food is also better, both tastier and presentation-wise. They can also accommodate larger families without the squeeze. There is however no band, so if you are looking for the Umpa-band look and feel, you will not find it here.

The food and service were very good and the atmosphere a mix of old and new Bavaria. This restaurant is a bit out of the way and a bit of a walk from the city center, but worth the visit.

Zum Dürnbräu

Here we had a pleasant meal outside not far from our hotel, even though the weather was a bit questionable with rain possible. The service was a bit slow, but the food was good and we had a very good time. The sauerbraten was first rate and I got to try the Apfelküchle, or fried apple rings with cinnamon and light sugar, which I found delightful.

Tavernetta Cucina con Pizza

After some time German food creates issues that only Italian food can cure. When you come to this Rubicon, you can cross by considering a place like Tavernetta, where you can enjoy some Italian food. They have a good menu, good service and the prices are not astronomical.

Mainz and Frankfurt, Germany – Revisiting old places

Not having an abundance of time, we decided to stay somewhat local a few times and visit Mainz and Frankfurt, both of which are but a stone’s throw away from Offenbach. Since we have been to both several times, we wanted to show other family members these two cities and will post mostly photographs without a lot of text.

Mainz

Restaurants

While in Mainz, we stopped at one of our favorite restaurants, or in this case a Wine house (Weinhaus), that our friends Karl Heinz and Isolde Seegräber introduced us to in the course of one of our earlier visits.

Hof Ehrenfels Weinstube

Frankfurt

In Frankfurt all we did was a Stadtbummel around the city and just wandered around.

Gelnhausen, Germany – a weekend train destination

With a cohort of eight, we found it impossible with only one car to make a day trip on the weekend of August the 17th, so we took the Regional Train direct from Offenbach Hauptbahnhof (Hbf). In 25 mintues with the RE51 you can be in Gelnhausen, or with the RB51 slightly longer; both operate often and at regular intervals.

Gelnhausen

An unusual destination for non-Germans, Gelnhausen does not offer much but a change of scenery, a lazy stroll in the park and perhaps different opportunities to eat.

The town is separated into lower and upper market places, or Unter- and Obermarkt, both of which act as parking lots for locals and visitors alike. Since we took the train, the entry to the town was over the Kinzig river and through the Ziegelturm.

Walking the narrow streets of Gelnhausen the visitor will notice numerous timber houses with sayings on them. In many towns, this is an old practice which has been used probably for centuries, either to provide some humor or commentary on the events of the time.

On the other end of town, after the Obermarkt you can wander through the Holzgasse Tower to find the old town wall. Here you will enjoy a very nice park with an overlook of the town and surrounding area.

Not far from the entrance is a memorial to the fallen soldiers of the town from the two world wars.

The town also has a few other monuments or fountains worth visiting.

Restaurants

There are many restaurants in this small town, though few were open. However, from what we could tell, there would be many cuisines to choose from had the other restaurants been open.

Malamatina’s Greek Restaurant

Off the beaten path and not far from the Obermarkt, is Malamatina’s Greek restaurant. Though the sign says, Greek and German food, we didn’t see much in the way of German food on the menu..

The house wine was of a Greek varietal that I, personally have never tried, but found very interesting, served under their own label.

The food was traditional Greek, offering Gyros, Slavaki and salads.

Braunfels, Germany – Altstadt and Castle

An hour’s drive by car north of Frankfurt above the Taunus mountains you will find a small, quaint and often overlooked little town called Braunfels.

Panorama of Braunfels below – Braunfels Castle – Braunfels, Germany

Braunfels

The town of Braunfels in the Lahm valley in Hessen and on the famous German Timber-Frame Tourist Road. All of the houses in the Altstadt are of this type construction and most are fairly old, sixteenth and seventeenth century.

The Altstadt lays to the east of the castle by the same name. Since it was built on the side of the same hill as the castle, some of the roads are pretty steep. Most are paved with cobbles and there are several signs, mostly if not exclusively in German, reminding visitors that the stones are uneven, slippery when wet, and the town and castle are not liable for any injuries, so watch you step when you visit.

The castle may be reached through the town via the Schloßstrasse, or on the other side of the hill via the Burgweg (this is where we parked).

Kratzsteine

If you ever wondered why old towns such as Braunfels had these many corner stones, or Kratzsteine; the following sign explains it. The interesting thing here is, that although these are very common throughout older German cities and towns, you will not find many examples in Braunfels; making one wonder why someone posted a sign above an example of one, when there are so few throughout the town.

The above can be translated loosely in English as the following.

The medieval cities had very narrow alleys, which were only meant for pedestrians and mule drawn carts. When horse drawn carriages came, they had difficulties trying to make the turns without slowing down. The hubs of the wheels or the side of the wagons would damage the buildings. In order to prevent this damage and the high cost of repairs, the home owners had to come up with something. They decided on giant house stones, or Kratzsteine, which were partially buried on the corners of the house. This forced the driver to avoid and swing their carriages wide, so they didn’t risk their wheels getting damaged from these strategically placed corner stones.

Castle Braunfels

Christian Christmas Tradition

In Germany there is an old religious custom on the twelfth day of Christmas, or what is more properly known as the Epiphany. On the evening of or the day of Epiphany the front door of the building is chalked with the pattern “yy * C + M + B * YY”. The CMB is short for the Latin phrase Christus mansionem benedicat, or in English, May Christ bless this house. The YY are the year divided up appropriately.

Castle Innards

The courtyard of the castle is fairly large and surrounded by three walls and towers. The inside of the castle is typical for one of this period. The slideshow below finishes our tour of the castle and our visit to this very nice little town in Hessen.

Mainz, Germany – Stadtbummel And Lunch

Though we have been in Mainz at least several times, it was before the beginning of this blog. Therefore, after a brief visit to the city to meet our friends and have a walk or stroll throughout the city (also known as a Stadtbummel), a quick mention here seemed almost required.

Day Trip To Mainz

This week we met our good and long time friends Karl Heinz and Isolde in Mainz for lunch and a customary Stadtbummel, if only to see some of the sights Patti has never seen.

To get there, we had to take the RMV S8 line from the Marktplatz in Offenbach to the Römisches Theater in Mainz. Unfortunately for us, there a typical issue which held the train up for forty-five minutes after we boarded and only went for two stops. Apparently something fell onto the tracks and tripped the signal on the line.

Mainzer Dom

Once the item was removed from the tracks, there were no further difficulties and we reached Mainz with plenty of time before lunch. We toured the Mainzer Dom and the Marktplatz, which are side by side, while we enjoyed the exceptional weather we were having for Germany.

Saint Ignatius Church

One of the more colorful churches inside is Saint Ignatius church. Though rather plain from outside the inside is definitely worth a look. The baroque style and paintings are impressive.

Saint Stephan’s Church

A must stop is Saint Stephan’s church, if only to see the famous church windows designed by Marc Chagall. Once inside, the eerie blue glow that occurs inside a bright sunny day is indeed a treat for the eyes.

Almost totally destroyed during World War II along with the rest of Mainz, the church was rebuilt in the late 1950s. Marc Chargall created a number of stained glass windows from 1978 and 1985 depicting scenes from the Bible.

Restaurants

Since we did not actually stay in the city we only had time with our friends to try the following restaurant for lunch.

Hof Ehrenfels

For lunch we ate at Hof Ehrenfels, a stone’s throw away from the Mainzer Dom on Greberstraße. It is actually a three star hotel that also has a very good restaurant with a garden. The four of us ate outside in garden and had Wiener Schnitzel.