Early in the morning from our balcony the weather looked most promising, regardless of what our weather forecasting tools were trying to tell us. It appeared we had finally came into some good weather on this trip after all. When we started it, it didn’t look as promising…
A clear, fresh morning from our hotel – Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein
Flanking Bad Gastein on either side are some fairly tall mountains, which may be ascended using a gondola ski lift. During the summer months, weekend trekkers from all over come for a breath of healthy air and what appears to be a heightened exercise regime.
Tickets For Two – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Overview of cable car – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The cost for a day trip is 33€/person at the window, though I do believe you can save a few Euros, if you purchase your tickets online.
Stubnerkogel
The cable car ride is straightforward, as any skier will tell you. Fortunately, during this time of year it is not very busy, so you will usually get a car all by yourself.
The ascent is rather quick, considering the distance up the mountain. The first part is rather steep and there is a midway station, so stay on, if you want to go directly to the top.
Ascending – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Cows in their alpine meadows – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Long stretches of green meadows – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The mountain station at 2251 meters – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Stubnerkogel is part of the Goldberg Group or mountain range and sits on one side of the Gastein Valley, while the Ankogel Group sits on the other side.
The Summit
On the summit the views are spectacular. The air is bracing and it is typically a bit windy up there, so bring something extra to wear. Even with the sun, we were taking things off and putting them back on, depending on whether we were walking, sitting in the shade, or sunning ourselves on the restaurant veranda enjoying a drink.
Panoramic view of the Ankogel mountains – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
I won’t bore you too much with details, just watch the following slideshow to enjoy our experience. It was most walking around and just enjoying the fresh air and surrounding views.
The Ritterkopf and the Angertal valley below – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Angertal valley below – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking toward Bad Gasteinhe – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking toward the Ankogel mountain group – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking toward Anlauftal valley – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Path to the Zitraurer Tisch – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Angertal – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Angertal with Ritterkopf in the distance – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Angertal with Ritterkopf in the distance – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein below – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Hofgastein in the Gastein valley – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Patti – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ritterkopt in the distance – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
To the Stubneralm overlook – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Gastein valley and Bad Hofgastein – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Patti at the Stubneralm – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Erick at the Stubneralm – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Anlauftal valley – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Gentle slopes of Stubnerkogel – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The rocky slopes of the Stubnerkogel – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Patti on the Rocky Trail – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Beautiful weather – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Dachstein in the distance – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
One last view – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Conclusion
Though we enjoyed the area, we were frankly a bit disappointed with the lack of town amenities. There appears to be a lack of restaurants, and those that do exist, seem to offer the same fare at a similar price. So looking for something different to experience will be a bit of a culinary adventure.
I have already mentioned that the town’s central thermal spa has been closed, so that is itself a big negative. However, the trails and sights are great and there are plenty of places to visit and stay busy. I am not sure I would recommend deviating your plans to stop here, but if you are headed to or from Salzburg and through Villach, Austria on your train route, you may want to stop for a day or two. I would not commend more than four days, you will run out of food options by that time.
Salzburger Hof
For us, the Salzburger Hof hotel appeared to be a good choice, we had an excellent room and the service was first rate. Though they did miss our need for extra coffee dairy and other supplies, the room was kept extremely neat and we always had plenty of towels and other accessories.
Tomorrow it is off to Linz, Austria via Salzburg. There we will spend a few days and eventually meet up with our daughter and son-in-law, Ericka and Gabi. So the next week or so will be a busy travel week for us.
Bad Gastein on the way down – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Yesterday, since the weather was definitely improving, we decided to take a walk or hike to Böckstein, another town along the river that feeds the majestic Gasteiner Falls.
Looking back toward Bad Gastein – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
To get there you can hike the Kaiserin Elisabethe Promenade, which is for the most part paved and relatively flat. It is probably important to remember to bring water, since there is not much wind in the valley and the sun can make it quite hot without any shade or clouds to protect you.
Gasteiner Ache – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Danger – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Beautiful weather – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pastoral view – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Patti and Gasteiner Ache – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Another waterfall – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Well maintained footpath – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Waterfall and foothills – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Flora – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Kreuzkogel mountain – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Kreuzkogel – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Valley pasture – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Anlauftal – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Sign on bridge – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Böckstein
Located a bit more than three kilometers south of Bad Gastein is Böckstein, a small hamlet of houses at the nexus of the Pallner Bach and the Naßfelder Ache.
Signage for bikers and walkers – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Anlauftal – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
The town center has some historical buildings and items of interest, and of course a museum that was not open. Check the times, because like many other businesses in the area, they are probably only open from 15:00 – 18:00. However, if you do get to visit, definitely stop, I heard the museum is quite interesting and well presented.
Local Music Group – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Memorial, Montan museum – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ehemalige Goldschlämmanlage – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Apartment house for laborers – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Park and Fountain – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Jagdschlössl Czernin – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Böckstein – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Maria, Mutter vom Guten Rat – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Within the park there is an old mining train on display. The Elektrische Grubenlokomotive, or electric mining train, is part of the Montanmuseum of Böckstein and a very interesting find for train enthusiasts.
Electric Grubenzug for a Grubenbahn – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Mannschaftstransportwagen – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Grubenzug – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Grubenzug – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Restaurants
The unfortunate thing about Bad Gastein is the lack of restaurants. There are about a handful of them that are owned by the same entity that owns our hotel, therefore the menu in each becomes rather predictable. Our hotel does have the Ritz restaurant, however it only offers a five-course meal at a fix priced. Which is in and off itself okay, but the quantity of food sometimes is just too much.
Angelo Pizzeria
Located on Karl-Heinrich-Waggerl-Straße, Angelo Pizzeria is actually part of the group that owns the Salzburger Hof hotel. It is usually open from 15:00 to 20:00 and has fairly good pizza. The soup was actually quite good, I had their tomato soup with creme fraiche and it was very tasty.
Their mixed salad is a typical German gemischter Salat, where everything is actually not mixed, but placed next to each other. So all of the grated carrots, sliced cucumbers and tomatoes line the bowl. Moreover, on the bottom of your mixed greens, you will find a surprise of traditional coleslaw or chopped cabbage, beans, sliced beets and German potato salad styled potatoes.
Wirtshaus Jägerhäusl
This restaurant does not belong to the chain mentioned above and offers a happy alternative to the same menu. The decor is appealing and it is also in a quiet area, away from the Silver Bullet Bar that plays loud music.
Front – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Inside – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Here you can actually find a Minestrone soup and other dishes that are well prepared and taste great. We both ordered the soup, I ordered the chicken sandwich and Patti ordered the chicken schnitzel. With a bottle of water it all came to 57€, which we found reasonable for the area.
Minestrone soup – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Chicken Sandwich with fries – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Today it’s off to the top of the Stubnerkogel and a day on the mountain.
The Matterhorn Express, the last leg of our journey here, is the longest of the rides you may take with the Peak Pass. It covers the gondola ride from Zermatt via Furi, all the way up to Klein Matterhorn and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
The Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
The gondola ride is fairly long and one can hop-on and hop-off and several different places along the way.
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt below – Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Schwarzsee
This is about the third stop on the way up and is after Furi. It is just up over massif that separates the high peaks from the valley floor below. In fact, as you go up the hill on the gondola ride you cannot see the Matterhorn until you just about reach Schwarzsee.
Matterhorn at the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Mattertal and Zermatt from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Weisshorn and other peaks from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Denta Blanche from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at the Zermatt – Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another stop just before Klein Matterhorn is the Trockener Steg. It lays at around eleven thousand feet in elevation, so you will feel some relief from the elevation once you arrive here on the way back down.
Patti and the Matterhorn – Trockener Steg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Klein Matterhorn
The top of the Klein Matterhorn is a cold, snowy and glacier dominated place. It has a commanding view of the Mattertal towards Zermatt and the Aosta Valley inside Italy. From here the Matterhorn looks very different, taking on the appearance of the rest of the horns, as the high peaks in this area are called.
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Crystal glacier experience – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Aosta valley, Italy – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and surrounding peaks – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti and the Aosta valley, ItalyTheodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Aosta valley – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
The tunnel that has been carved out into the glacier was probably once done on behalf of scientific curiosity and has now become a tourist attraction, complete with ice carvings. An interesting, if not very cold attraction. In order to thoroughly enjoy this you should be properly dressed, it is very cold.
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Conclusion
A must see trip and not for the faint of heart. If you have issues with height, be prepared, the gondola ride brings you across chasms that are quite deep and the gondolas are complete glass, so it will seem as though you are suspended in air. Here are a few videos where you can get an appreciation for what to expect.
We really enjoyed our day on the Matterhorn Express and would recommend it to anyone with plans to visit Zermatt. This concludes our visit to Zermatt, Switzerland.
Coming into Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Patti with the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another must see place in Zermatt is Gornergrat. You can reach this promontory by using the Gornergrat train, a mountain rack railway, which ascends the mountain passed Riffelalp and Riffelberg.
There are several stops besides these two along the way that one may decide to leave the train and just walk or hike. However, unlike Sunnegga and Blauherd, the terrain here is a bit more unforgiving and vertical. Also, the weather on top of the mountains can be cold and unpredictable, so bring something warm and something waterproof, especially if you are hiking.
Looking towards Dent Blanche – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat station – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward Zermatt and Mattertal – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Chapelle du Gornergrat – Bernhard von Aosta – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat Glacier
The height of the trip is the summit and the Gornergrat Glacier. Aside from this, this isn’t much to see, especially in marginal weather when the Matterhorn is obscured.
Panorama of Gorner Glacier – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Riffelberg
On the way down we stopped at Riffelberg, with the hopes of getting some hiking in down to Riffelalp. However, the weather was not looking very good and we were still suffering from our colds, so we decided against it.
View from Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Wanderwege – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Tall Peaks across the valley Matter – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Here are some short videos that were taken of our trip.
Restaurants
We did not eat at the restaurant on the summit, but rather waited until we were back in Zermatt. We left around ten in the morning and were already back a little after noon.
China Garden
Any one seeking good Chinese food at very reasonable prices has to visit the China Garden.
China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti at China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
They have all the dishes which are prepared with continental ingredients and taste delicious. For those that prefer their lunches uncomplicated, here you can definitely find some vegetarian or simple to order.
Spring roll – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Vegetable rice with vegetable mix – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
And of course, after lunch the day would not be complete this week without the customary rain storm. Actually, this was just a gentle shower, later in the day we had a very severe thunderstorm. But we were inside the hotel by then and did not care. Again, the weather can be unpredictable here, so be prepared and check the forecast, they are for the most part reliable.
Tomorrow it’s on to Matterhorn Glacier, so we will be taking the Matterhorn Glacier Express.
Part of the reason for even going to Zermatt has to be the hiking. Not only are the views breathtaking, even on a marginal day, but the air is fresh and clean and very enjoyable. And then there are the mountains, Zermatt has them and much more.
Panorama at Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt
To get anywhere, aside from the town, will require time, energy and a lot of walking. Or, you can purchase tickets to get up the mountains. These can be purchased separately, multi-day pass or the flexi-pass. We found the multi-day pass to be perfect for our needs, since we had no intention of skipping any days (they get a small premium for the flexi-pass, not sure why). The Peak Pass that we purchased, allowed us to travel to all three experiences, the Rothorn (Sunnegga-Blauherd), Gornergrot and the Matterhorn Glacier Experience.
The Peak Pass – Tickets For Two – Zermatt, Switzerland
Sunnegga
To get to Sunnegga and Blauherd you can either employ one of the hiking trails or take the cable car up to Sunnegga. From there you can start your hike or take a gondola ride to Blauherd, which gets you closer to the Stellisee, if that is your destination. From there however, you will have to hike.
The gondola ride goes up and down over some very treacherous terrain. So we decided we would take the gondola ride up and hike back down to Sunnegga.
Sunnegga station – Zermatt, Switzerland
Blauherd – Stellisee
The Stellisee is a good fifteen minute hike from the Blauherd gondola terminal over rather even, if not slightly downward sloping terrain. It is rather easy and should afford most people no difficulties.
Road and hiking trail to Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti ready to hike – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Stellisee hiking sign – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti with Matterhorn backdrop – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Stellisee is a rather barren, pristine alpine lake nestled on the side of the Unterrothorn. Many people will usually hike up to the refuge on the other side, but since the conditions were not ideal, we decided to just take a photograph of it and start our hike back down.
Stellisee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Murmelweg
Named for the eponymous animal that has made the territory it goes through its home, the Murmelweg is a casual, if not easy hiking trail back to Sunnegga. There are a few technical areas, but nothing that most people will find impossible to pass. I would wear hiking boots though, the trail goes over rocky terrain and a good boot will help stabilize your ankles and aid your hike.
Hiking sign back to Sunnegga – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers – Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
Taking the Murmelweg to Sunnegga – Zermatt, Switzerland
Trail behind looking towards Blauherd – Zermatt, Switzerland
The below video is a fairly good example of what to expect.
We chose this route over the five lakes trail, which you can actually see as you hike this trail, only because we heard that route was rather boring after about the first two lakes. However, if you have the time and motivation, I would commend it, since it has more elevation changes and a bit more challenging than this trail.
Erick and the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Trail turns into rocks – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti on the Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti leading the way – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
A murmel hole – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Alpine flowers and valley before Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Geodetic marker – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and adjacent peaks – looking towards RiffelalpAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Animal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
The area of Findeln and Gornergrat below – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Getting close to trail end – MurmelwegAnimal carvings with little tails – Murmelweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our Route – Map
The following reference map details our trail route. The route was a bit over two miles with only a few hundred feet elevation decline and took us about an hour and a half to complete, stopping frequently for photographs.
Blauherd-Stellisee-Murmelweg-Sunnegga Trail – All Trails – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
Osteria Bella Italia
Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
An Italian restaurant that is part of hotel on the Bahnhofstrasse, the Osteria Bella Italia is what my wife and I call and overpriced, corporate dining establishment serving food they want to be Italian. It’s not bad, but the preparation is what I would say a bit sub-optimal. Then there are the prices. I paid 22CHF for a small bowl of pasta with garlic and oil, totally unheard of in Italy.
Cauliflower soup – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
spaghetti aglio olio e peperoncino – Osteria Bella Italia – Zermatt, Switzerland
This week we traveled by train from Turin to Zermatt, Switzerland in the hopes of enjoying the weather and the clean air. There is plenty of clean air, but the weather has remained extremely variable, with it almost always raining in the afternoons.
Zermatt train station – Zermatt, Switzerland
After we got off the EuroCity train in Visp we had to take the local train from there to Zermatt. These trains are run by the canton and are especially equipped to ascend to the 5200ft elevation we needed to ascend in order to get to our destination.
Unfortunately, our first attempt failed and the train that we were on broke down at its first stop. We had to wait approximately a half an hour before another arrived to complete our journey.
Zermatt
Zermatt is considered a town by the local government and with a constant population of around five thousands, that would seem to be about correct. However, the bulk of the people that you find here are tourists. And as one would expect, the tourist population swells during the weekends as local Swiss and others from neighboring regions come to enjoy the alpine air.
Pfarrerkirche and Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatterhof – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking down the Mattertal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Bahnhofstrasse, the main street – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn shrouded in clouds – Zermatt, Switzerland
The town is divided by a river with is fed by the many glaciers that surround the town. However, the flow of this river is controlled by a dam and there are signs that warn those who want to sun themselves on the rocks along its banks, that water can be unexpectedly released and you can be swept down river. We actually witnessed the water level rise once due to the rain we had been receiving.
Gomerabach – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Uferweg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Area above Zermatt along the river – Zermatt, Switzerland
Old Zermatt
There are examples in the upper parts of Zermatt, of the original buildings that were used by the early residents. Some are still in use today. However, with the increased land prices, most have sold out and moved up valley to get away from the tourism gentrification.
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Triftbachtal – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Scenery on one of our walks – Zermatt, Switzerland
Original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Older original buildings of Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
The Tradition Julen
Our hotel is the four star The Tradition Julen hotel. It is one of the more pricier hotels in the area but the rooms are very cozy and comfortable. In fact, it is one of the few four star hotels that I have not had the displeasure of asking for something that should be already included in the room! The service is first rate and so far we are having a great stay. It is also close to the center of town, but kind of out of the way too, so you won’t get a lot of tourist walking by the hotel, which makes for a quieter stay.
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our room – Hotel Tradition Julen – Zermatt, Switzerland
Restaurants
During our week long stay here, we ate at an assortment of restaurants. The area does have its traditional food and our hotel actually houses a traditional Valais Stube which serves food like this, mainly raclette, beef fondues and other curiosities.
Stadel Restaurant
The first restaurant we stopped at that had just opened for the summer months. The service and food were good, but I have to knock them a bit for not having any sauerkraut – it is on the menu. It would have paired well with the Water Buffalo Bratwurst I had ordered and enjoyed.
Water Buffalo Gulash – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Water Buffalo Bratwurst with potatoes – Stadel Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Hotel Julen Restaurant
Our hotel has its own restaurant that serves cosmopolitan cuisine. Due to weather complications, we were forced to stay in and enjoy what it had to offer one evening and were not disappointed. We thought the food was very good and the prices fair.
Cauliflower soup – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Traditional Wiener Schnitzel with french fried – Hotel Julen Restaurant – Zermatt, Switzerland
Our initial feel for the town is good, it has excellent services and plenty of restaurants and bars. Some of the food can be pricey, but if you stick to the traditional German fare, the prices seem more reasonable. The people are very friendly and speak multiple language, especially English, so getting around should not be an issue.
So we are still here and our next plans included hiking and using the amazing funicular, cog railway and gondola system. I will make additional entries for those once we have completed and recuperated from them a bit. Until then, stay tuned.
Taking the Pila Cable Car from Aosta one can have a marvelous day trip above the clouds. At over six thousands feet in elevation, Pila sits over Aosta and the valley like an eagle’s nest.
Pila – Pila Cable Car – Tickets For Two
For a modest round trip fee of 7€/person, you can take the 15-20 minute ride on the cable car and enjoy a ride up the mountainside and the Aosta Valley. The cable car takes you over the small towns on the other side of the Dora Bàltea river from Aosta, where you can see the bucolic farms and vineyards from above.
Our Cable Car Ride And Day In Pila
Since there really isn’t much else to tell, a few short series of photographs is all that it takes to enjoy this wonderful day adventure, enjoy!
The Way Up
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Station
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Ride Up
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Ride Up
Pila – Pila Ski Resort and Views
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car Going Up
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car Going Up
The Ski Resort
Pila Ski Resort – Bike Center
Pila Ski Resort – Dirt Trail
Pila Ski Resort – Fog Clouds rolling in
Pila Ski Resort – Resort and Clouds
Pila Ski Resort – An Old Stump
Pila Ski Resort – Clouds
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car and Aosta Valley below
After a long day of bus rides and cable cars, it was time for some hiking. Nothing hard for our age, but moderate enough, just to get the legs to ache and the bones to complain a little.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama from other end
Having purchased a subscription to AllTrails, we had time before we left Turin to plan several hikes, of varying difficulty. Since the weather was so nice, we went for a scenic hike and chose Gargantua Hill.[1]Though technically any heap of rock and dirt may be called a hill, this is actually a glacial moraine, deposited thousands of years ago when the glaciers from the last Ice Age left this valley.
Map – Our Route
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve – Hike Map 2D
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve – Hike Map 3D
The hike was rather simple, leave our hotel, use the tunnel to go under the rail station, walk across the Pont Suaz bridge and walk the neighborhoods until we reached the hill, then ascend it.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Dora Bàltea river
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Dora Bàltea river
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Town of Charvensod
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Crossing the Pila Cable Car
We brought plenty of water, and were happy that we did, because it was pretty warm, perhaps in the middle 80s (about 28/29C). I also wore a hat part of the way, which helped to shade the sun beating down on me, so one can say – wearing a hat is good advise.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Town or Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Local Vineyard
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Apple Orchards in Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Apple Orchards in Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta in the distance
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta in the distance – Closeup
Gargantua Nature Preserve
The hill is part of the Riserva Naturale de Gargantua, or Gargantua Nature Preserver, and is some 150m, or 450 feet, in elevation. It has several trails on either side, most of which can be used to ascend and descend it. The one we chose was from the vineyard side to the east, with an approach from where it joins with the mountain. This was slightly easier than a direct approach, since it afforded us the use of the farming roads a third of the way up.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Trail on Gargantua
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti on the Gargantua Trail
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Tall Peaks
The hill is mostly porous dirt, rocks and stones, therefore it does not hold water very well and was severely dry due to this year’s climatic conditions in Italy. The dirt was very loose and without proper foot gear, one could easily slip in it.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama on top of hill – 150m (450ft) above valley
The summit provides impressive views of the entire Aosta Valley, with an excellent view of Aosta to the east.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Valle d’Aosta to the east
There are also several monuments and other artifacts on the top, including a score of music, a cross and some signs (which I did not translate).
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Il Silenzio della Fate – Score Sheet
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Il Silenzio della Fate – Marker
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – The Cross
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Valle d’Aosta to the east
The hike down was a bit more interesting than the ascent, since it was from the end of the hill that sticks out into the valley. Therefore, it was a bit steeper and more treacherous. There were several places that we had to be careful, but luckily there were always enough rocks on which we could purchase a grip.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – The Cross
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti made it!
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti on the way down
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Gardens
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Gardens
That does it for our day hike in Aosta. In all, it totaled about 7.5 miles and some 450ft in ascent and descent, and about three and a half hours to hike. We went straight to a restaurant, since we had been out since 9:30AM and did not want the restaurants closing while we were dropping our things off at the hotel. All in all, a very gratifying September day of hiking in Aosta. Go Hike!
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama with mountains
Though technically any heap of rock and dirt may be called a hill, this is actually a glacial moraine, deposited thousands of years ago when the glaciers from the last Ice Age left this valley.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Erick at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Some 33km from Aosta, or about one hour by bus, is the small ski hamlet of Courmayeur and the starting point of our day journey to Pont Helbronner (Helbronner Point) and Monte Bianco, or Mont Blanc.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Tickets For Two
Courmayeur
A quaint little ski hamlet that offers a traditional Italian, Swiss and French Alpine feel. The town is built to withstand the snows that most likely visit this region every winter season. Luckily, we visited when the weather was a bit more mild and pleasant.
Courmayeur – The Town’s Climbing Society
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – Diorama of an old structure in town
Courmayeur – The Mountains and Moghu Pines
Courmayeur – The Mountains and Moghu Pines
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – A Town in the High Alps
Courmayeur – A Sundial in Town
Courmayeur – The Town and Mountains
Or primary reason for being here was taking the Skyway Monte Bianco and visiting the mountain across from Mont Blanc, in order to get some good photographs of it and the valley of glaciers that it creates.
Helbronner and Mont Blanc
Once you board the cable car you ascend rapidly to the intermediate stop of where the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Gardens are, where you can stretch you legs and your soul.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Cable Car Entrance
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Cable Car Entrance
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mountain Face of Aiguilles Marbrées
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mountain Face of Aiguilles Marbrées
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – The Aosta Valley Floor
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Cloud Shrowded Mont Blanc
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
There are many things you can do here besides enjoy the cafe or bar. There are hiking trails all over the mountain, and within a few minutes you can be totally alone, hiking a few minutes up any of the trails. If not to discover, perchance to enjoy a different view of the mountain side, which in these parts, is steep enough to tax anyone’s endurance.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Veni Valley from the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Aosta Valley the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Mountain Goat at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Aosta from the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stella at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Fake Ibex at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Brenva Glacier and Punta Baretti
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Edelweiß at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Halfway Point
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Stop at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Pont Helbronner
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont and Glacier du Géant
A singular place to visit to enjoy the almost lunar landscape of this Alpine geography. Aside from occasional dyspepsia and dizziness that this altitude might cause, the visitor is welcomed to an almost surreal landscape once exiting the cable car and ascending the stairs to the observation deck.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Legend
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Glacier du Géant and Dente del Gigante
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Patti and view of Mont Blanc in clouds and Mont Maudit
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont Blanc in Clouds and
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont and Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Dente del Gigante
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – First View du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Restaurants
Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria
A normal pizzeria and brasserie by any Italian standards, as a stop for lunch it fit the bill nicely. We enjoyed a quick lunch of pasta, salad, water, wine and coffee with very pleasant service as an added bonus. There is nothing to complain about here, the staff is well versed in taking orders and serving food quite promptly.
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria – Erick’s Tagliatelle in Ragu and Insalate Mista
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria –
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria – Patti’s Tagliatelle with Porchini mushrooms
Like many other people who have lived an appreciable time, there are things in my life that are not easily dispensed of nor discarded. For some, it might be an old car which holds special memories of past trips, vacations or the odd sojourn to another country. Similar items, to many other people, might hold very fond memories, where, when it comes to that point in time when the item is worn out or past its usefulness, it is time to think of discarding it. However, when and if such a personal item still appears to be in good shape, it is very difficult to make that decision. So it is for me and especially things I wear. For example, my hiking boots, they are – shall we say – my friends when I am hiking.
Cottian Alps
My Old Sole
As I related in one of my past articles this year, Villanova, Italy – Hiking to Rifugio Jervis – Up, Up, Up!, I ran into difficulty during our hike with my hiking boots, when the soles of both boots decided to start falling off. I don’t recall what made me notice it, but somewhere at the top of the climb, I saw the issue when I stopped and placed my foot on a rock.
I purchased my hiking boots back in 2012 when LL Bean, the famous clothing retailer and manufacturer was having a sale. I purchased them for $125 at the time, which I think was 50% reduction from the normal price. The model was going out of style and they were probably liquidating their inventory of the item.
Guarantees In Life
As most of us know, nothing is guaranteed in life except death and taxes, is an old saying. For a very long time, LL Bean had a lifetime guarantee on most, if not all, of the products it sold. When they changed their policy, it was not doubt to staunch the amount of fraud that was occurring with its products on the second hand market and for other reasons, which was never the intention of its guarantee.
It was not my intention when I contacted LL Bean to invoke an old guarantee policy, that was in force when I purchased my boots. I acted in good faith to determine if they could repair my boots, and inquired about the process. What I got in return from their support group, left me somewhat dismayed and nonplussed.
I am so sorry you have experienced this issue. If you’re not satisfied, you can return or exchange an item within 1 year with proof of purchase. After a year we will accept returns of defective items on a case by case basis.
If after viewing the special conditions and if you feel they do not apply, you are welcome to send this item to our returns department for their evaluation with the original order number. Our returns department or retail representatives will determine if the return is accepted once they have the item in hand.
So after reading the above, I still thought that the glue that was used to weld the sole onto the boots was defective and inquired on whether or not they could repair it. The reply I received was to the affect that I would have to send the boots in to determine if this could be done. If they decided the glue was defective, they would not repair the boots, but rather send me an equivalent pair of boots of their choosing.
Anyone who has hiked enough in very comfortable boots will tell you, it’s not easy to find a good comfortable pair. Some even have to be broken in and at my age that might take too long.
I tried to reason with them via email and explained to them I did not want a new pair of boots. All I wanted was for their repair department to glue the soles back onto the boots and send them back and inquired about the cost. They replied that they probably could not repair the boots since they were so old and sending a new pair was the only option.
Therefore, I choose to keep my boots and decided to find some time in between our travels to research any local options we might have in Turin and Piedmont.
Il Mago Della Scarpi
Calzolaio Il Mago delle Scarpe Alex Store – Turin
Our local shoemaker in Turin is named Alex. He has a nice little shop on via Eusebio Bava, across the Piazza Vittorio Veneto from us. I initially tried to contact him in early August, but his shop was closed due to Ferragosto. This is when most Italians head for the hills for the beach in commemoration of the fifteenth of August, and normally last about two weeks, or until the first Monday in September. However, I was in luck, Alex came back early and I was able to get in to see him this week.
Alex – Il Mago della scarpi – Turin
I brought my cache of boots in a plastic sack and quietly entered the store. His daughter was playing by the cash register, while Alex was off to the left, doing what shoemakers do, repairing shoes. I introduced myself and showed him my boots. He took one, bent the sole down and scratched the inner sole adhesive and said they could be fixed in Italian. He handed me a ticket, #97 and said to return in four days. I replied thank you very much and have a very good day, departed the store and went home.
I returned after my four day hiatus to see what Alex had done to my hiking friends. He related to me it was no problem to fix them and one of his helpers handed me two separate clear plastic bags from off the high shelves behind him with my boots in them. I took them out to get a very good look at them, before finishing the transaction. All I saw was an excellent job.
My LLBean Goretex Hiking Boots – Tongue
My LLBean Goretex Hiking Boots
My LLBean Goretex Hiking Boots – Tongue Label – Made in Italy – How Ironic!
My LLBean Goretex Hiking Boots – Right Boot – Thank you Alex!
My LLBean Goretex Hiking Boots – Right Boot – Thank you Alex!
My LLBean Goretex Hiking Boots – Left Boot – Thank you Alex!
My LLBean Goretex Hiking Boots – Left Boot – Thank you Alex!
I was very happy, they look for all intents and purposes, brand new! Elated, I asked him how much did I owe him in Italian and his reply amazed me even more – 4€. I asked him, each? He said, No, total. I didn’t know what to say. I gave the man 6€, a 50% tip! He was very happy, I was happy and I am pretty sure my boots were happy too. As you can see by the photographs above, they are like me, old soles, but not yet ready for the dumpster. To add to the irony, they were originally made in Italy. So, I guess, they had to come back home in order to get properly fixed anyway. The way things just work out, lends some credence to Karma, for better or worse.
My last thought on the matter: I am guessing if LLBean were to repair them, it would probably have cost me anywhere in the neighborhood of $50, upto the original cost of the boots themselves and perhaps even more. That is just a guess, but probably pretty accurate for America’s throw-away society.
