Along the northern banks of the Thunersee, or Lake Thun, about thirty minutes from Interlaken you will find the caves of Saint Beatus. Though not as grand as some of the other caves we have seen, they are still worth visiting and at 13.50 Swiss Francs for entry per person, they are fairly reasonable to afford.
Tickets For Two – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Wengneralpenbahn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen, Switzerland
Once we arrived in Interlaken Ost, there was a short walk to the other side of town, Interlaken West train station, to wait for Bus 21 which took us directly to the caves of Saint Beatus and later back. Again, we purchased the Oberlander Pass, so there were no charges for this ride which is normally around 9 Swiss Francs for a round trip.
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Bus Ride to Saint Beatus Höhlen – Thunersee – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Interlaken
Since our bus was leaving from the other side of town, we had plenty of time to wander through the town and bit and enjoy some of its charm. The river Aare runs between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz here and the parks along it are understandably decorated to make it the perfect backdrop for photographs.
Patti – Aare River – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Höhematte Park – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Höhematte Park – Interlaken Ost, Switzerland
Saint Beatus Höhlen
When you arrive at Saint Beatus Höhlen, or caves, you are welcomed with a large waterfall. This swift moving water which comes from the upper watershed area and quickly moves through the rocks towards it destination in Lake Thun, is responsible for carving out the long necklace of caves that you are able to hike.
Bus Stop – Main Entrance – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Main Entrance – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
It is damp, wet and a bit chilly in the caves so bring something a little warm. The overall duration of the walk through the caves is about forty minutes or so, depending on how much time you stop to take photographs.
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Self Guided Tour – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
When you finally exit the caves there is a nice refreshment stand where you may purchase food and drinks, at the customary inflated prices.
Patti and Ericka – Saint Beatus Höhlen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Upon our return to Wengen we had dinner reservations at the Lecker Asia Restaurant, our break from the local cuisine.
Lecker Asia Restaurant
Lecker in German means tasty and the food here is definitely tasty. A good break from the fusion of French and German cuisines that we have been eating all week. It is a small restaurant with limited seating, so reservations is a must, since it does get full quickly during dinner time.
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Inside – Wengen, Switzerland
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Inside – Wengen, Switzerland
All the food was very good and spiced to your taste, without any unnecessary salt or MSG to worry about. Even though we were seven people with one baby and one toddler, they were still able to accommodate us.
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Chinese Food – Wengen, Switzerland
Lecker Asia Restaurant – Chinese Food – Wengen, Switzerland
The Jungfraujoch, or maiden’s saddle, has been reachable by train since the early twentieth century. The observatory commands a special view of the Aletsch Glacier, the Jungfrau, Mönch and the surrounding area; on a beautiful day it is quite something to see. Unfortunately, this time we had to contend with bad weather and strong winds. Our last visit was in 2020.
Eiger North Wall – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Getting There
We left Wengen using the Wengernalpbahn train to Kleine Scheidegg. With our Bernese Oberlander Pass, we purchased tickets for half price.
Going To Kleine Scheidegg – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Going To Kleine Scheidegg, Leaving Wengen – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Going To Kleine Scheidegg, Leaving Wengen – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Oberland Pass Map
Below are the transportation routes that can be used free of charge (solid lines) and those routes at half price (dotted) with the pass.
Bernese Oberland Pass – Map Of Routes – Wengen, Switzerland
Kleine Scheidegg
Known as the small pass between the farmers in Grindelwald and its valley and the rest of Switzerland, the Kleine Scheidegg became more important than it’s sister route the Grosse Scheidegg when tourism and the railroad to the mountains became an attraction.
Welcome Map – Jungfrau Region – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Eiger Glacier – Jungfraujoch, Switzerland
Jungfrau, Blüemlisalp and Gspaltenhorn – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Blüemlisalp and Gspaltenhorn in Clouds – Lauterbrunnen Valley – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Jungfrau in Clouds – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
It is a terminal train station, since all trains from here use different gauge track and are very specialized, thus changing trains to reach your destination is necessary.
Station Kleine Scheidegg – Wengernalpbahn – Wengen, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Leaving Kleine Scheidegg – Jungfraubahn – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
The view from here of the Eiger is worth noting. When the weather is good it provides an excellent view of the north face that rivals that obtained from Grindelwald.
Hotel Bellevue – North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Hotel Bellevue – North Wall and West Face, Eiger – Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland
Jungfraujoch
The so called Top Of Europe, or Jungfraujoch, is reached by the Jungfraubahn, which is the highest operating European train at over ten thousand feet. When you arrive the first thing you may notice is the thin air and difficulty breathing.
Since the weather had been on the inclement side, what better place to visit than Lauterbrunnen, from where at least eight waterfalls of note may be seen.
Staubbach Falls – Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Getting There
From Wengen we took the Wengernalp Railway using our Oberlander Pass, since it covers travel in this region and Lauterbrunnen is the end station on this line.
Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen is again a typical alpine resort town with one main street dotted with shops and little else. It is the town you park you vehicle if you are staying in Wengen (since no vehicles are allowed).
Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
The main street leads through the town from the train station and continues all the way to the end of the valley, however only after many name changes along the way.
Mettelnalp – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Schiltwaldbachfall – Village Reformed Church – – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Mettlenalp – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Almenhubel – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Once outside town the road narrows a bit, but offers a good path to have a long lazy hike down the valley. Cars are few, even though there are several camping sites along the way and parking lots for vehicles.
Staubbach Falls – Main Street – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Buchenbachfall – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Almenhubel – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Staubbach Falls – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
The Weisse Lütschine river flows the length of the valley as it gathers up many small tributaries that add to its volume along the way. During our walk you could hear its constant roar in the background.
Mettlenalp – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Buchenbachfall – Spiss – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Once we returned to Wengen, we had reservations and ate dinner at the following restaurant.
Berghaus Restaurant
This resort and hotel restaurant is small and offers traditional German and Swiss dishes. The author can recommend the Apple Strudel, it was very tasty, not ruined by sugar like in the States.
Berghaus Restaurant – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Berghaus Restaurant – Herb Soup – Wengen, Switzerland
Berghaus Restaurant – Schnitzel With Fries – Wengen, Switzerland
After Lake Leman we planned a return to the Bernese Alps and chose Wengen at the behest of other family members. We had previously been to Grindelwald and had spent some time there, so we knew the area well, although we had never visited the Lauterbrunnen Valley. In preparation for this trip, we purchased the following tickets and discount cards to help in managing expenses.
The Swiss Half Fare Card – provides half fare prices on all travel, including cable cars and other forms of transportation
The Oberländer Pass – provides access to all modes of transportation within the Oberland, can be purchased using the Half Fare card above.
The GoldenPass Express – since it is a special train, it is included in the Oberlander Pass, but if you want reserved seating, use the Half Fare card the price for First Class, it is still quite reasonable and perhaps the way to go for medium to large groups (we were a party of six).
Getting There
From Montreux, Switzerland we enjoyed the GoldenPass Express train to Interlaken Ost, the train station that lies between the lakes Thunersee and Brienzersee, just outside the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
Goldenpass Express – Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
Goldenpass Express – Montreux Train Station – Montreux, Switzerland
It winds through the Cantons of Vaud and Bern, through the Simmental valley where there are pastoral views to enjoy.
Lake Leman – GoldenPass Train – Montreux, Switzerland
Lake Leman – GoldenPass Train – Montreux, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Lake Thun – GoldenPass Train – Interlaken, Switzerland
Wengen The Town
Wengen is a classic Swiss ski town, having a single avenue with shops and stores catering to souvenir hunters, hotels spread throughout the surrounding area with accompanied restaurants, as well as standalone restaurants offering specialities and train and cable car stations. One thing it doesn’t have are private cars, they are not allowed here and one must park in Lauterbrunnen and take the train to visit.
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Beautiful Rainy Evening – Wengen, Switzerland
Beautiful Rainy Evening – Wengen, Switzerland
Hotel Jungfraublick
Our hotel during our stay was the Jungfraublick hotel, a three star hotel with restaurant. It supplied a complimentary continental breakfast in the morning, but its linen service proved to be somewhat of a problem and each day we had to ask for things we should have been supplied.
Aside from that, we didn’t see much of the Jungfrau, the third tallest mountain in the Bernese Alps, due to weather and the constant threat of rain or snow.
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Train – Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Lauterbrunnen Valley – Wengen Town – Wengen, Switzerland
Restaurants
Even though it was slightly off-season, we made reservations for all the restaurants we visited and it is probably advised, we found most of them fairly busy during regular dinner hours.
Da Sine Ristorante
On our first day in Wengen, we ate here for lunch. They have excellent Italian food at somewhat reasonable prices for Switzerland.
Da Sina Ristorante – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Da Sina Ristorante – Main Entrance – Wengen, Switzerland
Caprice Ristorante
The Caprice restaurant also offers Italian food and is very good. It can be found at the Maya Caprice Boutique Hotel and there prices are also in line with what other restaurants are charging in the area.
After a day of familiarizing ourselves with the town Ivrea, it was time to do some hiking and see the surrounding countryside. Though probably not known to the layperson, the lakes and surrounding area were formed by glacier activity around 9700 BCE. All five lakes and the long, gradual hill in the distance that is not a mountain of the Alps, are actually glacial moraines from that time. Here, after a long hike, we were able to repose along Lake Sirio for a long and needed lunch, as well as a magnificent view.
Five Lakes Hike – Sticker and Course Route – Ivrea, Italy
The Five Lakes Hike
In and around Ivrea are hiking trails known as the Five Lakes Hike through which part of the Via Francigena trail also passes. None of the hiking trails are difficult, per se, however many of the surfaces are poor, so hiking shoes or a good trekking shoe is commended.
Five Lakes Hike – Map – Ivrea, Italy
Unfortunately, due to time and the weather, we were unable to visit all of them and had to forgoe seeing Lake Nero and Lake Campagna. Luckily, they appear very similar to the ones below that we were able to visit, so no harm done.
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Italian Alps – Ivrea, Italy
Lake Sirio
Our first lake that we encountered was Lake Sirio, perhaps the largest of the five and it has the comenserate amount of lake resources around it for swimming, sunbathing and other activities.
Five Lakes Hike – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Erick – Ivrea, Italy
The trail winds around this lake perhaps three quarters of the way and then veers off into the woods towards Lake Pistono. We followed the trail and then made a wide circle back around, essentially making a circle, to revisit this lake and have lunch at Restaurant Il Cigno.
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Castello di Montalto – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Italian Alps – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Italian Alps – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Lake Pistono
Lake Piston is a smaller lake and only offers a few trails to get close to the lake. We found this lake surrounded by more water, which also means more insects, so bug lotion or spray is recommended, they are voracious!
Five Lakes Hike – Chapel – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Trail Marker for Via Francigena – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Trail Marker for a Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Erick – Ivrea, Italy
This lake has one distinction, it is home to one of the Big Benches, which can be found throughout Piedmont in different areas and settings. Such projects make it fun and interesting to get out and find such silly objects. However, having said that, most are in areas that are out of the way and may present difficulty for some. But if you are able, the sights can be beautiful, so go for it!
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Castello di Montalto – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Patti on the Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Erick on the Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy
Lake San Michele
A smaller lake and closer to Ivrea is lake San Michele. Though we had some bother getting there and visited the Chapel of the Three Kings unintentionally, since the Italians with money just love to block public access to things, even roads, if they can do so.
Five Lakes Hike – Polveriera Park – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Polveriera Park – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Polveriera Park – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – San Michele Lake – Ivrea, Italy
So, we were unable to continue our travels using the Via Boaro, since it is blocked by a gate and a fancy house with video surveillance, so if you have the same idea – don’t bother. Instead, use the Via Cascinette and Via Lago San Michele roads to get to the lake. There is a lake park entrance that may be used, or you can continue on Via Lago S. Michele and see the lake once you round the bend in the road.
Five Lakes Hike – San Michele Lake – Ivrea, Italy
Churches And Chapels
Though not known for the churches or chapels, there are a few that can be visited in the area. We found the following when we continued our Five Lakes Hike the next day. The Sanctuary was open, but the chapel appears closed, perhaps for good.
Five Lakes Hike – Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Church of San Lorenzo the Martyr – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Chapel of the Three Kings – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – View from Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – View from Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Il Cigno
We made note of this restaurant on Lake Sirio when we were outbound headed for Lake Pistono and made plans to swing back around for lunch. It has amazing seating right along the shore of the lake with marvelous views of the Graian Alps.
Five Lakes Hike – Patti at Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Erick at Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
The food is good and prices are reasonable. We were here during the off-season, but one can easily imagine that it gets quite busy in the summer, especially on the weekends, so plan accordingly.
Five Lakes Hike – Patti’s Linguini with Octopus – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Erick’s Insalata Mista – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Erick’s Bonet – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano
Not far from our hotel, Hotel 3T, along the Stata Stradale (SS26) is the Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano. We ate here one evening only because we did not want to venture from the hotel, who’s restaurant unfortunately was closed.
Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano – Inside – Ivrea, Italy
Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano – Pizza Margherita, Bufalina – Ivrea, Italy
Here is where you will find all the locals looking for excellent pizza at great prices. We ordered a salad, two pizzas, half liter of wine and water for around thirty Euros.
La Gustiera
Another good place to eat, but come early if you do not have reservations, is La Gustiera Osteria. Located on Via Quattro Martiri, La Gustiera offers a select menu every evening of authentic Piedmont cuisine, perhaps half fish and half meat, so something for everyone’s taste.
La Gustiera – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
La Gustiera – Inside – Ivrea, Italy
La Gustiera – Inside – Ivrea, Italy
La Gustiera – Spaghetti Bolognese and Linguini with Cherry Tomotoes and Olives – Ivrea, Italy
Trattoria Monferrato
Almost directly in the old city center on Via Gariglietti is the Trattoria Monferrato. Having trouble finding a place to eat elsewhere, we found a table free here on a Saturday just by luck.
Trattoria Monferrato – Outside and Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Trattoria Monferrato – Pork Filet and Potatoes – Ivrea, Italy
Diorite rock near Trattoria Monferrato – Ivrea, Italy
The food here was very good, a cross between home cooking and something made by a chef. The pork filet with gravy was delicious, along with a side of potatoes and some wine the meal was very enjoyable. Knowing the difficulty we had finding a place to eat, we shared our large table for six with a German couple from Frieburg and had a very entertaining conversation about them traveling through Italy on E-Bike.
Erick with Regina and Leo, who we met at the Trattoria Monferrato – Outside Caffe Torino, Piazza San Carlo – Turin, Italy
Our Hotel
We stayed at one hotel for the entire weekend on the north side of town, only to have more convenience leaving on our hikes.
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
Hotel 3T
A rather modern hotel with most amenities. The hotel staff can be a bit problematic on the weekends, since we had to ask a few times for towels and toilet paper. So, attention to detail is not a priority.
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
Hotel 3T – Breakfast pastries and cappuccino – Ivrea, Italy
Another drawback was the restaurant, which was closed for dinner, so we had to go every night, which can be annoying if you had a long and tiring hike. However, the hotel is clean and the bed and pillows were very comfortable, a big plus when you need a good night’s rest.
If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
Early in the morning from our balcony the weather looked most promising, regardless of what our weather forecasting tools were trying to tell us. It appeared we had finally came into some good weather on this trip after all. When we started it, it didn’t look as promising…
A clear, fresh morning from our hotel – Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein
Flanking Bad Gastein on either side are some fairly tall mountains, which may be ascended using a gondola ski lift. During the summer months, weekend trekkers from all over come for a breath of healthy air and what appears to be a heightened exercise regime.
Tickets For Two – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Overview of cable car – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The cost for a day trip is 33€/person at the window, though I do believe you can save a few Euros, if you purchase your tickets online.
Stubnerkogel
The cable car ride is straightforward, as any skier will tell you. Fortunately, during this time of year it is not very busy, so you will usually get a car all by yourself.
The ascent is rather quick, considering the distance up the mountain. The first part is rather steep and there is a midway station, so stay on, if you want to go directly to the top.
Ascending – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Cows in their alpine meadows – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Long stretches of green meadows – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The mountain station at 2251 meters – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Stubnerkogel is part of the Goldberg Group or mountain range and sits on one side of the Gastein Valley, while the Ankogel Group sits on the other side.
The Summit
On the summit the views are spectacular. The air is bracing and it is typically a bit windy up there, so bring something extra to wear. Even with the sun, we were taking things off and putting them back on, depending on whether we were walking, sitting in the shade, or sunning ourselves on the restaurant veranda enjoying a drink.
Panoramic view of the Ankogel mountains – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
I won’t bore you too much with details, just watch the following slideshow to enjoy our experience. It was most walking around and just enjoying the fresh air and surrounding views.
The Ritterkopf and the Angertal valley below – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Angertal valley below – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking toward Bad Gasteinhe – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking toward the Ankogel mountain group – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking toward Anlauftal valley – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Path to the Zitraurer Tisch – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Angertal – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Angertal with Ritterkopf in the distance – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Angertal with Ritterkopf in the distance – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein below – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Hofgastein in the Gastein valley – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Patti – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Wild mountain flowers – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ritterkopt in the distance – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
To the Stubneralm overlook – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Gastein valley and Bad Hofgastein – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Patti at the Stubneralm – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Erick at the Stubneralm – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Anlauftal valley – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Gentle slopes of Stubnerkogel – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The rocky slopes of the Stubnerkogel – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Patti on the Rocky Trail – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Beautiful weather – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Dachstein in the distance – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
One last view – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Conclusion
Though we enjoyed the area, we were frankly a bit disappointed with the lack of town amenities. There appears to be a lack of restaurants, and those that do exist, seem to offer the same fare at a similar price. So looking for something different to experience will be a bit of a culinary adventure.
I have already mentioned that the town’s central thermal spa has been closed, so that is itself a big negative. However, the trails and sights are great and there are plenty of places to visit and stay busy. I am not sure I would recommend deviating your plans to stop here, but if you are headed to or from Salzburg and through Villach, Austria on your train route, you may want to stop for a day or two. I would not commend more than four days, you will run out of food options by that time.
Salzburger Hof
For us, the Salzburger Hof hotel appeared to be a good choice, we had an excellent room and the service was first rate. Though they did miss our need for extra coffee dairy and other supplies, the room was kept extremely neat and we always had plenty of towels and other accessories.
Tomorrow it is off to Linz, Austria via Salzburg. There we will spend a few days and eventually meet up with our daughter and son-in-law, Ericka and Gabi. So the next week or so will be a busy travel week for us.
Bad Gastein on the way down – Stubnerkogel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Yesterday, since the weather was definitely improving, we decided to take a walk or hike to Böckstein, another town along the river that feeds the majestic Gasteiner Falls.
Looking back toward Bad Gastein – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
To get there you can hike the Kaiserin Elisabethe Promenade, which is for the most part paved and relatively flat. It is probably important to remember to bring water, since there is not much wind in the valley and the sun can make it quite hot without any shade or clouds to protect you.
Gasteiner Ache – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Danger – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Beautiful weather – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pastoral view – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Patti and Gasteiner Ache – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Another waterfall – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Well maintained footpath – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Waterfall and foothills – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Flora – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Kreuzkogel mountain – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Kreuzkogel – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Valley pasture – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Anlauftal – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Sign on bridge – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Böckstein
Located a bit more than three kilometers south of Bad Gastein is Böckstein, a small hamlet of houses at the nexus of the Pallner Bach and the Naßfelder Ache.
Signage for bikers and walkers – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Anlauftal – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
The town center has some historical buildings and items of interest, and of course a museum that was not open. Check the times, because like many other businesses in the area, they are probably only open from 15:00 – 18:00. However, if you do get to visit, definitely stop, I heard the museum is quite interesting and well presented.
Local Music Group – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Memorial, Montan museum – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ehemalige Goldschlämmanlage – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Apartment house for laborers – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Park and Fountain – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Jagdschlössl Czernin – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Böckstein – Kaiserin Elisabeth Promenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Maria, Mutter vom Guten Rat – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Within the park there is an old mining train on display. The Elektrische Grubenlokomotive, or electric mining train, is part of the Montanmuseum of Böckstein and a very interesting find for train enthusiasts.
Electric Grubenzug for a Grubenbahn – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Mannschaftstransportwagen – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Grubenzug – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Grubenzug – Böckstein – Bad Gastein, Austria
Restaurants
The unfortunate thing about Bad Gastein is the lack of restaurants. There are about a handful of them that are owned by the same entity that owns our hotel, therefore the menu in each becomes rather predictable. Our hotel does have the Ritz restaurant, however it only offers a five-course meal at a fix priced. Which is in and off itself okay, but the quantity of food sometimes is just too much.
Angelo Pizzeria
Located on Karl-Heinrich-Waggerl-Straße, Angelo Pizzeria is actually part of the group that owns the Salzburger Hof hotel. It is usually open from 15:00 to 20:00 and has fairly good pizza. The soup was actually quite good, I had their tomato soup with creme fraiche and it was very tasty.
Their mixed salad is a typical German gemischter Salat, where everything is actually not mixed, but placed next to each other. So all of the grated carrots, sliced cucumbers and tomatoes line the bowl. Moreover, on the bottom of your mixed greens, you will find a surprise of traditional coleslaw or chopped cabbage, beans, sliced beets and German potato salad styled potatoes.
Wirtshaus Jägerhäusl
This restaurant does not belong to the chain mentioned above and offers a happy alternative to the same menu. The decor is appealing and it is also in a quiet area, away from the Silver Bullet Bar that plays loud music.
Front – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Inside – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Here you can actually find a Minestrone soup and other dishes that are well prepared and taste great. We both ordered the soup, I ordered the chicken sandwich and Patti ordered the chicken schnitzel. With a bottle of water it all came to 57€, which we found reasonable for the area.
Minestrone soup – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Chicken Sandwich with fries – Wirsthaus Jägerhäusl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Today it’s off to the top of the Stubnerkogel and a day on the mountain.
The Matterhorn Express, the last leg of our journey here, is the longest of the rides you may take with the Peak Pass. It covers the gondola ride from Zermatt via Furi, all the way up to Klein Matterhorn and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
The Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn – Walking to the gondola entrance – Zermatt, Switzerland
The gondola ride is fairly long and one can hop-on and hop-off and several different places along the way.
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Furi – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Zermatt below – Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Express Gondola ride up to Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Schwarzsee
This is about the third stop on the way up and is after Furi. It is just up over massif that separates the high peaks from the valley floor below. In fact, as you go up the hill on the gondola ride you cannot see the Matterhorn until you just about reach Schwarzsee.
Matterhorn at the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Mattertal and Zermatt from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Weisshorn and other peaks from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Denta Blanche from Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and the Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at the Zermatt – Schwarzsee – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another stop just before Klein Matterhorn is the Trockener Steg. It lays at around eleven thousand feet in elevation, so you will feel some relief from the elevation once you arrive here on the way back down.
Patti and the Matterhorn – Trockener Steg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Klein Matterhorn
The top of the Klein Matterhorn is a cold, snowy and glacier dominated place. It has a commanding view of the Mattertal towards Zermatt and the Aosta Valley inside Italy. From here the Matterhorn looks very different, taking on the appearance of the rest of the horns, as the high peaks in this area are called.
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Breithorn and its glacier – Ascending Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Crystal glacier experience – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Aosta valley, Italy – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn and surrounding peaks – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Theodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti and the Aosta valley, ItalyTheodul Glacier – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Aosta valley – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
The tunnel that has been carved out into the glacier was probably once done on behalf of scientific curiosity and has now become a tourist attraction, complete with ice carvings. An interesting, if not very cold attraction. In order to thoroughly enjoy this you should be properly dressed, it is very cold.
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Klein Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Conclusion
A must see trip and not for the faint of heart. If you have issues with height, be prepared, the gondola ride brings you across chasms that are quite deep and the gondolas are complete glass, so it will seem as though you are suspended in air. Here are a few videos where you can get an appreciation for what to expect.
We really enjoyed our day on the Matterhorn Express and would recommend it to anyone with plans to visit Zermatt. This concludes our visit to Zermatt, Switzerland.
Coming into Zermatt – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick and Patti with the Matterhorn – Zermatt, Switzerland
Another must see place in Zermatt is Gornergrat. You can reach this promontory by using the Gornergrat train, a mountain rack railway, which ascends the mountain passed Riffelalp and Riffelberg.
There are several stops besides these two along the way that one may decide to leave the train and just walk or hike. However, unlike Sunnegga and Blauherd, the terrain here is a bit more unforgiving and vertical. Also, the weather on top of the mountains can be cold and unpredictable, so bring something warm and something waterproof, especially if you are hiking.
Looking towards Dent Blanche – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat station – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Looking toward Zermatt and Mattertal – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Chapelle du Gornergrat – Bernhard von Aosta – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Erick at Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Gornergrat Glacier
The height of the trip is the summit and the Gornergrat Glacier. Aside from this, this isn’t much to see, especially in marginal weather when the Matterhorn is obscured.
Panorama of Gorner Glacier – Gornergrat – Zermatt, Switzerland
Riffelberg
On the way down we stopped at Riffelberg, with the hopes of getting some hiking in down to Riffelalp. However, the weather was not looking very good and we were still suffering from our colds, so we decided against it.
View from Riffelberg – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Wanderwege – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Tall Peaks across the valley Matter – Riffelberg – Zermatt, Switzerland
Here are some short videos that were taken of our trip.
Restaurants
We did not eat at the restaurant on the summit, but rather waited until we were back in Zermatt. We left around ten in the morning and were already back a little after noon.
China Garden
Any one seeking good Chinese food at very reasonable prices has to visit the China Garden.
China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Patti at China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
They have all the dishes which are prepared with continental ingredients and taste delicious. For those that prefer their lunches uncomplicated, here you can definitely find some vegetarian or simple to order.
Spring roll – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
Vegetable rice with vegetable mix – China Garden – Zermatt, Switzerland
And of course, after lunch the day would not be complete this week without the customary rain storm. Actually, this was just a gentle shower, later in the day we had a very severe thunderstorm. But we were inside the hotel by then and did not care. Again, the weather can be unpredictable here, so be prepared and check the forecast, they are for the most part reliable.
Tomorrow it’s on to Matterhorn Glacier, so we will be taking the Matterhorn Glacier Express.
