Omegna, Italy – Lazy Italian Refuge

Hidden quietly in the north of Italy is the small lake of Orta and the lazy town of Omegna. After two trains and a bus ride, we finally arrived at our new short trip destination. We checked into our three star hotel, the Croce Bianci, perhaps the best centrally located one in the town.

Orta Lake – Panorama from Omegna Shoreline

Because of its small size and lack of glamour, Lake Orta is often overlooked by most overseas travelers, who are more interested in the high impact tourist destinations to check off their bucket lists. It is visited mostly by Italians from Milan, some of whom own weekend homes here, the French, Germans and the occasional Brit. Since there is really not much to see and do on this side of the lake, a short slideshow is perhaps more in order.

Omegna – The Hotel Croce Bianca (red building)

Omegna – Caduti Monument and Hotel Croce Bianci – Lungolago Gramsci

We made plans to visit Omegna just to relax and actually do nothing more than just check the lake out. This is definitely a good place to accomplish nothing. However, there are plenty of activities available, from camping, boating, cycling, swimming, hiking and the odd trek to a neighboring town, if one is so inclined. The area is definitely family friendly, even the town has a large and very well equipped playground for them.

The remainder of our trip will visit other parts of the lake and be continued in another entry, so stay tuned. Ciao for now…

Restaurants

Salera 16

A more hip and trendy place is the Salera 16, which caters to the younger crowd with burgers, fries and other handheld items. A good place to stop for something quick.

Omegna – Caesar Salad with Chicken and shaved Parmesan – Salera 16

Al Centrale Bistrot

This little bistrot has excellent food at great prices, though the menu is limited and changes daily. If you are not fussy and adaptable you definitely find a tasty treat here. Their wines by the glass are very good.

Omegna – Ravioli with Pesto – Al Centrale Bistrot

Ristorante Il Cavalieri

The first restaurant we visited when we arrived, it offers traditional Italian fare and pizza. It behaves more like a trattoria and gets a lot of local traffic. So an excellent place for reasonably priced authentic Italian food. I found the Vino Sfuso, or bulk house wine, a bit of a disappointment, but it is still drinkable and reasonably priced.

Omegna – Ravioli and side salad – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria

Omegna – Chicken Cutlet Milano Style with Fries – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria

Omegna – Tartufo – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria

Ristorante Punti D’Vista

A ten minute walk along the Lungolago Gramsci of Omegna on the west bank will bring you to this hotel and restaurant. Set slightly uphill from the road it has a commanding view of the lake and plenty of outside seating. Reservations are recommended though, as the patio seating fills up quite fast.

Omegna – Rigatoni with olive oil, tomatoes and fried vegetables – Ristorante Punti Di Vista

Omegna – Cheese Cake with currants, Coffee and Sambuca – Ristorante Punti Di Vista

31 July, 2022

Postonja, Slovenia – Spelunking Fun

Postonja Cave

The Postonja Cave, an enormous network karst cave and cavern system, is located forty-five minutes to an hour from Ljubljana driving south on E61 towards Trieste, Italy. The best way to get there is driving, but you can take a bus or hire a tour (which is what we did). Our coach tour cost us 93€ each and we were eight people total, a very manageable group size.

The Cave Tour

The tour is fairly well managed and is split into a train ride tour, which brings you deep into the mountain; and, a walking tour inside the cave system, which explains the geology and processes going on in the cave itself. They also explain some of the fauna that lives in the cave, as well as the ecology. The entire tour from entrance to exit is about one and a half hours. The temperature in the cave system is around 50°F, so bring a jacket or sweater, if you are inclined to get cold. I wore a short-sleeved shirt and was fine, though the train ride was a bit chilly due to the breeze.

Below is a set of short video clips recording the train tour, and a slideshow of the walking tour. Both are in order of when they were taken. I took more than enough photographs because it is such an amazing thing to see and how often does anyone actually go underground for anything?

If you ever get a chance to go, it is well worth the trip. It is one of the largest cave networks in the world, and the second longest in the country of Slovenia.

The Train Ride Tour

The Walking Tour

Postonja Caves – The Ride into the Caves

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Large Stalagmites

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Spaghetti Stalagtites

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Large Stalagmite

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Large Stalagmites and Spaghetti Stalagtites

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Stalagmites and Spaghetti Stalagtites

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Large Cavern

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Large Stalagcurtains

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Spaghetti Stalagtite Cavern

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Large Column

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Column and Spaghetti Stalagtites

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Large Stalagmites, Column and Spaghetti Stalagtites

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Large Stalagmites – Leaning Tower

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Calcification

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Column Calcification

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Mini Columns

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Meeting Cavern

Postonja Caves – The Caves – Bridge and Groom Stalagmites

31 July, 20221 August, 2022

Bled, Slovenia – A Blue Karawanken Gem

At the base of the Southern Limestone Alps^[1]They are additionally known as the Julian Alps., or Karawanken Mountains, sits the small town and lake of Bled . It is almost a must see place to go on a day trip from Ljubljana, especially if you have enough time. Since we have the time, we usually overbook our stays at places that are totally unknown to us. For Ljubljana specifically, and Slovenia in general, we were happy that we did, since it afforded us a day trip such as the one to Bled. Slovenia really is a great place to visit!

Bled – entrance from parking lot – panorama

Lake Bled – Getting There

To get to the lake you must travel northwest from Ljubljana, there is the E61 that can be taken by car or bus. The trip normally takes forty-five minutes by car, and up to an hour and a quarter by bus, but can take longer if there is an accident or construction on the highway. Upon the suggestion of the information booth by the Triple Bridge we took the bus, even though we now think the train may be faster. The bus is packed, so if you are worried about Covid-19, and you should, you should be prepared to wear you FFp2 mask.

It should be noted, the bus takes two different routes going to and coming from the lake, each taking about the same time. There is of course the train, which may actually take less time gong to and fromm Bled, but then you have about a twenty or so minute walk from the town of Bled Train Station to the lake. The bus on the other hand goes all the way to the lake, even though we chose to get off at the Blen Union station.

Bus Ride to Bled – Mountains along the way

Lake Bled – The Trail

Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island

There is an excellent trail that totally circumnavigates the lake, going through several tourist beach and cafe points, any one of which you can take a pause in your walk to get refreshed.

Bled_03

Bled_08

Here is a slideshow of our great afternoon walking the lake shore trail, enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery.

Bled – Lake Bled is surrounded by the Julian Alps

Bled – how the water runs through the rocks

Restaurants

Hotel Starkl Restaurant

Around 12:30 or so we stopped about three quarters of the way, going anti-clockwise around the lake, at the restaurant Hotel Starkl. It is best to get to any European tourist restaurant thirty to forty-five minutes in advance, because at one o’clock they fill up quickly. Here we purchased simple salads and enough wine and water to enjoy the fabulous weather.

References[+]

References
↑1	They are additionally known as the Julian Alps.

20 May, 2022

Villanova, Italy – Hiking to Rifugio Jervis – Up, Up, Up!

Hiking Rifugio Willi Jervis

An easy day hike from Villanova in Val Pellice, or the Pellice River Valley, later to become the Torrente Pellice, is the destination of the Refuge of Willi Jervis, known locally as Rifugio Jervis. The Pellice is actually formed on the western flank of Mount Grenaro, which would be down the valley pictured below and to the left.

View near the Rifugio Jervia at 1740 meters (about 5710 feet) by the Torrente Pellice

The Hike

Though the hike should have only taken us a hour and fifteen minutes up and the same back, it took us approximately three and a half hours. Some of this was taken up by stopping for photographs and the occasional drink (it is important to stay hydrated, especially when it gets warm, plus at altitude the body loses more moisture, so be careful). This of course cannot be helped when faced with a new experience and such beauty.

Starting Point Villanova

The drive from Malpertus to Villanova took all of ten minutes on the windy roads of the Conca Cialancia Natural Park , which includes the Val Pellice and the surrounding mountains. Our hosts, Sam and Lisa Chiodo at Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus, are amazing and were kind enough to give us a ride and later pick us up at the start of the trail in Villanova. If you are looking for a home base in the area, look them up, they are both great.

Commune hiking signs in Villanova, at the start of your trek

Sign at Villanova, showing routes and some history

Trail signs showing other trails and directions in Villanova

Looking closely at the wooden signs above, our destination is the last item on the left hand side, Rif. Willi Jervis. It estimates the average hike time as one hour and fifteen minutes, but it took us considerably more, since we were always stopping to take photographs, or just to admire the views.

We took the Mulattiera which is difficult enough

Though we actually took the Mulattiera, or mule path, we went down the Sentiero to see the waterfall. The more difficult Sentiero, or pathway, which goes over boulders can be taken, but we thought the mule trail would be difficult enough and our host Sam agreed. So we walked down to the Cascata di Villanova, a waterfall not far from our starting point, to get a short video and walked back up to start our hike.

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The Hike Started Smooth Enough

Once you start the climb, it goes up and down for quite a bit until it’s all uphill. There are several places where you have to take care and be very attentive, especially in the beginning and end, but the views and experience are well worth the effort. Unlike other climbs above the timber-line or through a forest, the Torrente Pellice provides both the white-noise to block every crazy little thought you might be having, as well as the solitude that anyone can use to reach a true calm in one’s life. But I imagine there are still those that walk as fast as they can just to get from point to point, and we actually saw a few.

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The trail at this point is rather quiet and not very torrential, but further up its character changes drastically. So we started, following a small road until we hit the actually trailhead.

Waterfall, you will see more of these, that’s why they call it Torrente and not Val anymore

The water is clear blue, pristine and full of trout

The hiking starts out smooth on a rather level roadway

What started out as one hour fifteen minutes, is now one hour thirty, huh?

Il prato montagna, or the mountain meadow

The beautiful flowers of the mountain meadows

More beautiful flowers of the mountain meadows

We are headed up there, see that other waterfall?

The trail narrows and more flowers of the mountain meadows

And that waterfall we saw from can be heard from where we were standing.

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The Start Of The Actual Hiking Trail

The trail is actually paved with heavy stones most of the way and starts down, instead of up. However, that does not last long.

Patti sitting in front of our first of many cliffs on the stone covered hiking trail

If it weren’t for the absolutely gorgeous weather, we might have reconsidered our decision. The rocks that pave this trail are very slippery and well worn and are most likely very hazardous when wet. However, we remained steadfast and undeterred and pushed on, even with the frequent stops for photographs.

Wide angle view of the trail and the valley below

Looking towards Villanova, which is getting smaller

Patti on our boulder trail and the beautiful Italian Cottian Alps

Rock climbers on rock face, notice yellow dot just above the green to the right

Val Pellice and the High Cottian Alps in the distance

The black salamander is protected here, be careful

We also frequently stopped for a few videos too, just to record the noise of the water moving, which at times was thunderous.

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ItalyBobbioPellice_HikingVillanova-RefugioJervis_22

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Amazing Waterfalls

We passed several places where water was coming in from other tributaries, mostly in the form of these beautiful waterfalls.

And the actually hear the real thing, a short video.

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From Here – UP, UP, UP

After all that water, the trail kicked up rather steeply. Not that it was a problem, but you did have to watch your footing. Some people hiked with poles, which is definitely a good option, but I find them noisy and annoying and prefer listening to the wind, water and any birds I can hear.

The access road trail again and easier hiking for a time

Trail comes out occasionally on an access road

Only to be back on the trail soon enough

The trail became more challenging the closer we got the to the top

Cresting The Trail

Just as we were about to finish our climb, we ran into a class of young rock climbers and their teachers. Speaking several languages and very close to the Italian-France border, they were obviously making a day of it. They all had brought a backpack with them and those who were not climbing were running around like mountain goats.

A class of rock climbers, speaking French, Italian, Spanish and some German

The trail was actually pretty steep right were all the climbers were, so we had to take our time to move through them as they were belaying.

The steepness of the trail demanded a lot of switchbacks

It got pretty cool up there, some clouds started to roll in

Patti on the same rock with the Val Pellice behind her

Erick on the trail with the Val Pellice behind him

After a few photographs, I actually turned around to take a short video of the climbers, since some of them seemed quite adventurous and adept at the skill.

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Rifugio Willi Jervis

The upper alpine valley where the refuge is, was a big change from following the river all day. There are marmots, birds and the sound of insects everywhere, but then again, it was a beautiful spring morning.

Finally reached the upper valley floor by the Refuge, trail signs

The upper Val Pellice, looking toward Lago Lungo and the cloud shrouded Pic Traverse

Mont Manzol to the left with Mount Granero peeking out from behind it

Nice panorama of the valley floor and mountains

Inside Rifugio Willi Jervis, the bar is downstairs, but it was closed, no caffe for us

Descending

On the way down we took a slightly different route, keeping to the access road more, mostly due to the threat of bad weather. It appeared there were several thunderstorms possibly brewing. So, not wanting to be cold and wet on a trail in the high alps, we decided to descend early and quickly, instead of waiting for pranzo at the refuge, which probably started at twelve noon sharp.

Taking a slightly different route, you can see the hiking trail we were on down below (next to the river)

From here several additional Cols or peaks can be reached, Villanova ostensibly only thirty minutes away, yeah if you take a short cut

More information from the Comune of Bobbio Pellice, next time we should do Bric Boucie at close to three thousand meters

Patti finishing up her hike in VIllanova

At the end, we both thought it was an amazing climb by all accounts. If you ever have the occasion to make the climb to the Rifugio Willi Jervis, I would suggest starting in the morning, especially if you are taking photographs, the morning sun is just perfect for such an undertaking. Oh, and buy a good pair of boots! I had purchased an ostensibly good pair of hiking boots from L.L. Bean in the States, only to have this happen the day before this hike on the Pista Bassa.

Trail Map

If you are interested in our trail map, see the image below. Or, while using standard and accepted security practices, feel free to download the PDF here.

19 May, 202220 May, 2022

Malpertus, Italy – Hiking The Pista Bassa

Hiking Val Pellice

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook – Another Panorama

This is just a quick post to document our first local hike from Malpertus to the closest town, Bobbio Pellice. As already mentioned in a previous post, there is a number of trails around that you can hike. The one we chose to go into town, is the same one that goes across Napolean’s Bridge just outside our Borgata and is called the Pista Bassa.

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Once over the bridge the trail ascends quickly and then flattens out and appears to be used often by local farmers, since there are clear signs of tractor use. Since I want to keep this short, here are a few slide shows for the points of interest.

The Pista Bassa Hike

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – circa 1640 and other dates

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – more dates

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – even more dates

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our Host Sam out front

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Terrace

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Old Terraces

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Borgata’s Main Water Source

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – An old barn in disrepair

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Patti and Lisa behind us talking

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Deviation to the Pista Ulta

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our host’s son Luca

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our hosts Sam and his son Luca

Flowers of the Pista Bassa

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – The Flowers

Flowers of the Pista Bassa – Star of David

Restaurants

Trattoria del Centro

After our short hike, it was time for lunch and some refreshment. Our local host Sam quickly introduced us to the owner of the Trattoria del Centro, where we were able to order local home cooked food at a very reasonable price.

Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Appetizer

Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Spaghetti alla Ragu

Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Creamy Panna Cota, Coffee and Sambuca

After our meal, which included wine, water, appetizer and pasta for both of us; then I order dessert, coffee and sambuca; and the entire bill came to 30€. I will also include that the Panna Cotta had the most delicate and creamy texture that I have yet had in Italy.

We returned to the Borgata the same way we came, which helped us discover a few more visual treats, especially a small outcropping with terrific views.

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Overlook of mountains

Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Patti in field along the trail

And a short video of Patti hiking the trail.

So that concluded our day hike from Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice, complete with Pranzo (that’s Italian for lunch). We found this a great short hike, with some points of interest along the way. So, if you are ever in the area, you should give it a try and enjoy the cool mountain air and beautiful surroundings. Ciao for now!

Trail Map

If you are interested in our trail map, see the image below. Or, while using standard and accepted security practices, feel free to download the PDF here.

4 May, 20224 May, 2022

Borgo Po, Turin – Hiking Giacomo Leopardi and San Vito

Hiking in Turin

Usually when visiting one of Italy’s best kept secret cities, you would think that there wouldn’t be much to do for the outdoors enthusiast. But nothing could be further from the truth. Turin has a wealth of parks sprinkled throughout the city. Most are for casual pleasure, walking the dog, strolling the baby carriage or just a good jog.

The view from the Borgo Po, Corso Moncalieri, Turin

However, just a short mile and a quarter walk from our apartment in Turin is the entrance to Giacomo Leopardi Park. Here one can find a real hiking adventure, if you are so inclined.

Giacomo Leopardi Park

Once accessible via car, it is now only open to the public via the pedestrian access and can be entered by casual walkers, hikers and any cyclists willing to dare its steep slopes.

The park still maintains a roadway that may be walked, but for the more adventurous, there are several hiking trails that take a more direct route upwards.

Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – The Trails

Our initial thoughts were to make the entire hike up to Mount Eremo, visiting the Parco di San Vito along the way. However, Alltrails Pro, the portable phone application we use, gives only one value, instead of a range, for the length of time it might take you to reach your goal, which of course may not fit into your body’s aerobic or fitness calculus. So you may want to add additional time to any of the ‘moderated accepted hikes’, in order to account for any stops, water or photography breaks.

The link between this park and the next one, Parco di San Vito, entails some roads and real hiking.

San Vito Park

You will find the Parco di San Vito about a third of the way up to the Colle della Maddalena, or Mount Maddalena.

A view of the city from San Vito Park

One of the amazing things about Turin, and Italy in general, is there willingness to not poison everything. Unlike America, they do not run out and get a can of weed killer or herbicide when something springs up that does not look like a sanctioned type of grass. Hence, the fields at the park actually have many types of wild flowers, bees and crickets! So do not expect dead silence when hiking here, like you would in most city parks in America.

After this park, we hiked a bit further up the mountain towards a small picnic area located on the map. Our plans after two hours of hiking modified somewhat, since at this point we were only halfway to our original destination.

Patti on the trail above San Vito, wild flowers are everywhere

The trails up through this stretch of woods were a bit more undeveloped and natural, the floor of the woods covered with different flowers.

Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito

The hike through the woods continued for about another three quarters of a mile or so, and we were thinking of modifying our plans for the day.

Picnic Area Bert

After coming off the trail and turning around a bit on Quadriva Raby, you may head back and get back on the trail from Cascina Natura Pro Natura. A small picnic area on the side of the hill with a small field, some facilities if you are inclined and a picnic bench for lunch, or just a drink of water and a cliff bar.

Picnic area – Pro Natura Torino – Cascina Bert

The trail head down is located just to the left of that last picnic bench above. A marker can be found on the tree. However, if you miss this, there are signs and a map by the parking lot and buildings that are over to the right.

Bird Song and Fifteen Seconds of Calm

This is actually an amazing hike and you will find yourself stopping frequently just to enjoy the quiet and being out of the city for some respite.

Patti on a city stairwell in the Borgo Po area

Upon returning to Turin after about three and a half hours of hiking bliss, we took some shortcuts and discovered to what extreme Turin is willing to let some things go natural. Just goes to show, without humans around just how fast nature is willing to reassert itself.

21 April, 202221 April, 2022

Sant Ambrogio, Turin – Sacra di San Michele

A Sacred Vertical Pilgrimage

For those wanting and willing to see the Sacra di San Michele and experience this great church and its views, one must hike the three or so kilometers and one kilometer ascent in order to really enjoy what the builders had accomplished here. Not only is it a feat of Middle-Ages engineering and stubbornness, its shear existence defies rationality, and so may I add hiking up to it. Well maybe not exactly, but you should be prepared. We saw many individuals when we were descending wearing the wrong type of shoes, etc. More on that later.

Sant’ Ambrogio – Getting There

A thirty three minute train ride from Turin’s train station Porta Nuova will get you to Sant’ Ambrogio and the beginning of your climb. Let me add, before we begin, that you may drive up to the church; but then you would be among the majority of people there and just mere tourists.

The train station is spartan and leaves you off on track one to enter this small town or hamlet directly. Returning you will have to find the stairwell to the right of the train station and walk under the tracks.

First sight of Sacra di San Michele from train station – Sant Ambrogio

Sacra di San Michele from inside the town – Sant Ambrogio

A sleepy town on Pasquetta (day after Easter) – Sant Ambrogio

A view from the Church of Saint Giovanni Vincenzo – Sant Ambrogio

The trail starts and the Church of Saint Roch – Sant Ambrogio

Follow the signs for two hours – Sant Ambrogio

We arrived the day after Easter Sunday, or as the remembrance in Italy has it for Roman Catholics, Pasquetta ^[1]Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it … Continue reading The town was more or less empty, so our ideas about a quick climb up and back and an early lunch soon vanished.

On the way up, the rooftops of the town – Sant Ambrogio

The walk through the town was short and without incident, in fact, we were mostly accompanied by the individuals who left the train with us, residents of the town having already left for the long weekend or enjoying amenities inside and their extra day off.

Parco Naturale Orsiera – Sentiero Trail 502

Using the Sentiero Trail 502, or TOS 502, we quickly left the town and started our ascent up the most north-eastern mountain or hill of the Parco Naturale Orsiera. An almost one kilometer ascent for three kilometers with slopes ranging in steepness of three to twenty percent, and I would conjecture most were in the double digits.

This 3 km rises 1000 meters and takes about 1 and a half to 2 hours to hike – Trail Map

The trail was for the most part cobbled with round and larger stones, some which have a remarkable green color, are shiny and very slippery. Proper shoes are important, though it is possible to navigate the trail with tennis shoes or sneakers.

A welcoming sign, this is the right trail – Sentiero Trail 502

The Trail has Cobble and other Stones all the way up – Sentiero Trail 502

Patti navigating the trail – Sentiero Trail 502

Patti on another turn – Sentiero Trail 502

Sant Ambrogio Panorama – Sentiero Trail 502

At a higher elevation, overview of Sant Ambrogio – Sentiero Trail 502

Patti still climbing – Sentiero Trail 502

The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502

Coming to first ending of trail – Sentiero Trail 502

Upon exiting the trail at a collection of houses, and an interim point in the hike, you will find a large commemorative stone.

Commemoration Wheel 2000 – Sentiero Trail 502

Then you will make a hairpin turn and look up, only to see that your hike up is STILL NOT OVER!

Still a long way up to go – Sentiero Trail 502

Checking the signs indicate approximately another kilometer to hike, which took us about twenty minutes.

Trail Sign, another .8 km to go – Sentiero Trail 502

After the last more modest climb you will walk onto a road, where all the other tourists are walking into from the parking lot. The attraction has a large sign explaining the layout of the church and its grounds.

Sacra di San Michele

Once near the church of Sacra di San Michele, the magnificent views are apparent. With its perch high on a rocky crag, the church has a commanding view of the valley below.

Walking up to the church you will find a small building to the right that sells postcards, other tourist paraphernalia and entrance tickets. Once purchased, a turnstile to the left has a QR code reader that will let you enter, then you must start climbing stairs, an unwelcome sign after our long journey.

Tickets for Two – Sacra di San Michele – Sant Ambrogio

Erick with Covid mask on ascending more stairs – Sacra di San Michele

Again more stairs – Sacra di San Michele

The remainder of our visit consisted of just enjoying the church and the beautiful views. My wife chose this day because the weather promised to be wonderful, we were not disappointed, it was sunny and in the low 60°s Fahrenheit, perfect for hiking.

Finally, the entry – Sacra di San Michele

Commemoration of the Crucifixion – Sacra di San Michele

Inside the church – Sacra di San Michele

Spectacular views, by the entrance of the church doors – Sacra di San Michele

Erick and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele

The end of the valley and a view toward Turin

The Cottian Alps and the valley floor looking towards Susa, taken by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele

Patti and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele

The Susa Valley and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele

Looking across the valley from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele

The ruins and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele

More ruins and alpine foothills from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele

Leaving we took our last look up at the great church and descended along the more difficult trail, due to its increase in steepness, it promised to cut some time off our descent, which it did.

Going down is a bit more treacherous and only 2.5 km, but still takes about 1 and a half hours to hike – Trail Map

However, the first part of this trail is VERY steep and not for anyone ill-prepared or wearing the wrong hiking apparel, so caution! We were actually having second thoughts until we realized it was more difficult to go back up, then to press on and continue downward.

A view of the church descending – Sacra di San Michele

We arrived back in Sant’ Ambrogio almost five hours later, hungry and fairly tired from our experience. Once on the train, we relaxed and started to compare which part of our legs hurt more. However, we were both happy we were able to meet our sacred vertical pilgrimage with a great sense of accomplishment. It was our first big hike of the season, hopefully not our last and if anyone is thinking of doing this or a similar hike, keep the following in mind, we will next time.

- Prepare for your hike, research the route and understand how technical it is
- Bring a water bottle, the trail has two or three places to refill, this is especially important
- Bring lunch or something to eat, there is nothing above except some vending by the ticket counter, but do not count on that
- Wear the correct clothing (light and layered) and shoes, hiking shoes would be preferred but thick soled tennis shoes or sneakers will do
- Pace yourself, unless you are young be mindful of your body and do not over-exert, you do not want to get into medical trouble on that trail, it will take some time for them to get to you
- Go in good weather, unless it’s your intent as an experienced hikers not to
- And last but not least.., enjoy yourself, there are amazing things to see and hear on the trail, the flowers and birds are in abundance.

References[+]

References
↑1	Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it empty.

17 October, 202119 October, 2021

Naples, Italy – Hiking Vesuvius

It is possible to hike to the summit of Mount Vesuvius. For a modest fee you can put on your best walking of hiking shoes and climb to the summit from within a few hundred meters in elevation. On a clear day, it is totally worth it, not only for the views of Naples but also for that curious look at what might be going on inside the crater. Our guide Federica, from MindTheNap Tours, along with Pasquale our driver took us there for the day. She has excellent knowledge of the volcano, its history and all its eruptions, as well as other off beat information regarding the consecration of the volcano by the church.

The Climb

The ascent is not very rigorous, there are plenty of old people walking up and they do hand out walking sticks, if you are so inclined. Now, on to the slide show for which I have not captioned anything, since most should be self explanatory.

A few short videos while we were on the way up and at the summit. The audio is probably terrible, it was very windy and cold that day.

On The Way Up - The 1944 Lava Field

Naples And Its Surrounding Environs

The Bay Of Naples And Naples

The trip up, around the crater wall and back down took us a little over an hour. But it can be completed faster, we just happened to take our time. The drive there on the other hand depends on traffic, which as you can imagine can be problematic in Naples.

Wineries

At the foot of Mount Vesuvius are many wineries, which grew certain types of varietals, aglianico, caprettone and piedrosso, that work well with the volcanic soils.

Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery Russo Family

After our ascent up the mountain we spent a few hours in the afternoon having a tour, wine tasting and lunch at the Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery of the Russo Family. We tasted the following before and during our lunch.

– Rosè Sparkling Wine (100% aglianico grapes)

– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOP (100% caprettone grapes)

– Lacryma Christi Rosato DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)

– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)

– Lacryma Christi Riserva (80% piedirosso e 20% aglianico grapes)

– Passito Bianco IGT (50% caprettone, 50% falanghina grapes)

Vesuvius on the way out with some clouds over it

13 September, 2020

Ritten – Hiking Paradise

The plateau of Ritten is one of the great places to hike and enjoy the Alto Adige. Fresh air, sun and absolutely gorgeous fields and woods brought me right back to my own childhood. Their are tons of insects and birds here and I never got tired of hearing the constant whizzing, whining and chirping. Stress relief for one’s soul and probably one of the big reasons why so many come here to relax and enjoy life. I know we did.

Hiking Oberbozen And Ritten

Ritten is a fabulous place for hiking, with a myriad of trails for all levels, one can hike for days across this area and almost always find a place to stay, eat or hike, with proper planning of course.

Ritten Cable Car

The way up is easy, with your multi-day Alto Adige pass you can take the cable car!

A good twenty to thirty minute ride with spectacular views, the cable car can be boarded just north of the train station. It climbs the nearby mountain and then across the Ritten Plateau to Oberbozen. Here, you can either start your hike, or continue to other points of interest using the plateau’s mountain train service.

There is also an Information Center just outside the cable car entrance in Oberbozen. So if you intend to hike, purchasing a map is a very good idea, the cost at the time of this writing was €3.50.

Since we went to the Oberbozen twice we actually have a short video of descending on the cable car as well.

Maria Himmelfahrt

Our first hike was a rather easy trek to the Church of the Assumption of Mary, or Maria Himmelfahrt.

A tired old apple tree, apples are everywhere in Tyrol

Paths go right through farmer’s property

It is marked as a twenty minute hike, but we found that must be for a very fast walker. In fact, we would say that it is perhaps true of all the times that were posted (but then again, Schneckie was along). I would have preferred them to post the distance in kilometers, then try to guess how long it should take us to hike it!

Erdpyrimaden Oberbozen

One of the great geological oddities to see are the Earth Pyramids. Some of the rocks that you will see there balanced on the top of tiny pyramids of sand seem likely to have been intentionally placed, and yet it is all only a 25,000 year old geological oddity of a glacial domain and erosion. The process is somewhat shown in the chart below.

The hike to the Earth Pyramids from Oberbozen is not far, about a half an hour. However, there are several spots you can view them, which at the time can appear very confusing.

The best vantage point we found was at the very end of the Erdpyrimaden trail by the farmer’s field. I would call this the Haupt Erdpyrimaden, and have so marked it on Google Maps.

Patti, close up, by the Haupt Erdpyramiden

There is another lesser set of Earth Pyramids further down the trail in a wooded area. But they are not as spectacular as the previous ones. Aside from that, it is rather technical and more dangerous to get any closer to these to take any better photographs.

You hike further down Trail 23 passed a barn

Back into the forest, then you notice another outcropping – Rivallaungraben

Hiking Down To Bozen/Bolzano

We decided after the Earth Pyramids to continue our journey on foot, instead of walking the trail another half an hour to forty minutes to Oberbozen. This turned out not only to be adventurous, but very rigorous, as in the trail actually becomes quite steep and challenges anyone’s thigh muscles to hold on.

Erick on Trail 23, going towards Bozen/Bolzano

We can attest that it does NOT take an hour and fifty minutes to hike from Oberbozen to Bolzano, it is more like two and a half hours. Anyone who has done it any quicker has cheating, using roller-blades or other devices. It was also rather warm out, forcing us to pace ourselves somewhat in order to conserve what energy we had left.

The route is rather simple, taking Trail 23 to the Earth Pyramids first, you continue along down the mountain until you hit Trail 6, and then take that the rest of the way into the city. You will exit somewhere very close to where the cable car took you up the mountain.

Restaurants

Hotel Post Victoria

Situated along the trail of the Maria Himmelfahrt is the Italian Ristorante Post Victoria.

They have good Italian food at very reasonable prices and amazing views of the Alto Adige Alps. A great was after a hike to Maria Himmelfahrt to recharge those stomach batteries with food and wine to continue your journeys.

Der Schwarze Katz

The Black Cat or Schwarze Katz was a discovery after climbing off the mountain in pain and hunger. You will find it at the end of Trail 6 coming into the North of Bolzano.

It was actually rather busy when we got there which was around one o’clock or a little afterwards. Limping and tired we sat down ready for what ever they were willing to throw at us.

8 August, 2020

Grindelwald – Kleine Scheidegg

At two thousand or so meters above sea level and little Grindelwald, is the small train interchange of the mountain pass at Kleine Scheidegg. Three separate lines run from here and it becomes a busy little beehive in the morning hours, less so in the afternoon, at least during summer.

KleineScheidegg_42 — Kleine Scheidegg Train Station

We purchased our tickets in Grindelwald station not thinking much about passes, which is actually a mistake, but live and learn. In any case, to get there you take the rack train, or cog train, from Grindelwald.

Tickets For Two – Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg

The way up takes about thirty minutes and there are about three stops along the way, including Grindelwald Grund, to pick up passengers who drive to take the train on a day trip. Since I forgot to take a video going up, here is a short one on the way down.

Note: Investigate getting a multi-day pass that includes the Jungfraujoch and traveling in the area. Especially if you are traveling with family or a group, this may save you serious money. The Jungfraujoch is an inclusive train/experience, so it will be a bit pricey, so any discount you can get may relieve the sticker shock.

Kleine Scheidegg

With the Hotel Bellevue, where Clint Eastwood stayed during the shooting of The Eiger Sanction, a movie based on the novel with the same name; Kleine Scheidegg is a collection of hotels, cafes and train lines to other parts, including Jungfraujoch and Lauterbrunnen.

The Eiger Glacier

Next to the imposing Eiger, the Eiger glacier drains its icy contents between itself and the Mönch, while Jungfrau sits idly by, to the right of both.

KleineScheidegg_30 — The Eiger Glacier – Eiger Is To The Left, Mönch Is Directly Behind It

The hike from the train station up to the glacier is about an hour and can be quite demanding at time. There is loose gravel and some tricky places where you ascend. But it’s all worth it in the end, the views are amazing. Here is a slideshow of the sights that we saw on our trek up.

Patti And Wetterhorn and Grindelwald In Distance

Erick And Wetterhorn and Grindelwald In Distance

Restaurants

I hope you enjoyed our trip to the glacier and the area around it. We actually did eat at a small place here, it’s not much to look at, and at the time they only had window service because they are still in reduced operations.

Restaurant Eigernordwand

This little restaurant has very limited room inside and outside, so first come, first served, as they say. The menu is rather simple, but the food is very good. Like other places around and due to its location, the prices are on the high side, especially for window-only service.

If you are traveling during virus restrictions, keep in mind that you have to remain flexible. So prices notwithstanding, we still enjoyed it and felt that we had a decent lunch when we left.

Our day trip ends with a short video of us pulling out of the Kleine Scheidegg station. Patti and I both agreed we have to visit during winter, to get the full feeling for this beautiful place.