For a few days we enjoyed the company of our cousin Chris, who luckily was traveling for business in the area and was able to stop by for a visit.
Turin
Chris arrived on Friday and I met him at our main train station of Porta Nuova, which because it was coming from Naples and went through Rome, was late by about fifteen minutes.
Cousin Chris Arriving – Porta Nuova – Turin, Italy
For one entire Saturday, the 2nd of May, we were able to enjoy amazing weather and show Chris the city of Turin. One of our major stops was the Open Market in Piazza della Repubblica. There he purchased authentic Italian cheese to take back home with him. Other than that, we just made sure he enjoyed great food here and kept him as comfortable as possible in our apartment for a few days.
Patti and Chris – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy
Chris and Erick – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
It seemed like we spent more time in the restaurants, trattoria and cafes, than we did walking around. We made a point of it to take him to our two favorite restaurants nearby, which I am happy to say we had reservations for, given the fact the city was packed with people for the Jazz Festival in Turin.
Trattoria D’Agata
Our favorite Trattoria for authentic Silician cuisine is the Trattoria D’Agata in Turin. Here we always enjoy good food, their Arancini are to die for, and good wine.
Chris and Patti talking food – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Arancini and Baked Mozzarella – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Patti’s Pasta alla Norma – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Patate al Forno and Filetta with Pistachios – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
la Luna Barbera from Alba – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Porto di Savona
Another favorite of ours for Piemontese cuisine is the Porta di Savona. Since the weather was so exceptional and it was lunch we sat outside. Located in the corner of the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, we essentially sat on the edge of the rest of chaos going on in the piazza, it was very busy.
Tajarin with Cheese Sauce and Insalata Mista – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy
Chris – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy
We had a great time and we are sure Chris did too!
If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.
Mount Aetna – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Getting There And Back
To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.
Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy
To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.
Reggio Calabria Airport – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Reggio Calabria
The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.
Boardwalk with Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy
If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.
Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Torrine Hotel
On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.
Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Lungomare
The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.
Boardwalk – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Boardwalk – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.
Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.
Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento Della Vittoria
From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Monumento della Vittoria – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Roman Baths
Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.
Roman Baths Site – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo
A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.
Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.
Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese
The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
North Tower Gallery
During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
South Tower Gallery
While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.
South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villas And Palazzos
There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.
Villa Genoese Zerbi
A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Villa Genoese Zerbi – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè
These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.
Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.
Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Restaurants
Drogheria Culinaria
Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.
Entrance – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.
Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante
One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.
Entrance – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.
Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.
End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy
A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?
Tropean Onions – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Getting There
In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!
Lamezia Terme
Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.
Restaurants
Europa da Albano
While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.
Greek Salad with Tuna – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy
Spaghetti Bolognese – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy
Tropea
Town sign and map – Tropea, Italy
Calata di Patéi – Largo Villetta – Tropea, Italy
Calata di Patéi – Largo Villetta – Tropea, Italy
Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy
One of the Canons – Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy
Affaccion del Corso – Tropea, Italy
Another Canon – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.
Typical Side Street – Tropea, Italy
Typical Side Street – Tropea, Italy
Typical Alley – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Ercola – Tropea, Italy
Old Portal – Largo Galluppi – Tropea, Italy
17th Century Palazzo Marchesi Toraldo di Francia – Tropea, Italy
Narrow Streets – Tropea, Italy
Narrow Streets – Tropea, Italy
One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.
Weekend Visitors – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Hotel Colomba D’Oro
In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.
Hotel Colomba D’Oro – Tropea, Italy
Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania
The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.
Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Chapel Dome – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Tomb by Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Organ and Altar of the Virgin of Romania – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Black Crucifix of 1600 – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Altar – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Statues – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Mother Mary and Jesus – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea
On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.
Tickets For Two – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
View – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Facade and Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.
Pews – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Confessional – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Nave – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Altar – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.
Patti – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Erick – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens
An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.
Patti – Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Parking – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare
Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
The Grotto – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Beach – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask
Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.
Nasocchio and the Apotropian Masks – Totemic Masks against Evil Eye – Tropea, Italy
Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.
Restaurants
Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.
Royal Bar
Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.
Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy
Campari Spritz and Granita – Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy
Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante
Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.
At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.
English Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Drink Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Filey Fresh Pasta with Tropean Onions – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Spaghetti alla Ragu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Dessert and Expresso – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Palazzo Teotino Ristorante
This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.
After our week in Naples where we took several days to visit the Amalfi Coast, we headed further south and stopped in Sapri. This was a scheduled visit to break up the trip and offer us a sunny interlude and a bit of repose before continuing to Tropea and later Reggio Calabria.
Stoney Beach – Sapri, Italy
Sapri
Sapri is a small Italian town that is dominated by its stony beach. While there it was fairly vacant and deviod of other tourists. But there were plenty of restaurants open and we did enjoy that relaxing atmosphere and food.
Boardwalk – Sapri, Italy
Boardwalk – Sapri, Italy
Boardwalk or Passeggiata – Sapri, Italy
Boardwalk – Sapri, Italy
Beach – Sapri, Italy
Beach – Sapri, Italy
Carlo Pisacane Statue – Sapri, Italy
Bronze Girl – Sapri, Italy
The town itself is nothing to look at, but there are a few spots of interest, all of which were along the coastal area. Situated in the Gulf of Policastro it is surrounded by hills on all three sides. Luckily the train station is a short ten minute walk to and from the beach.
Sapri Train Station – Sapri, Italy
Getting There
There are several trains that run between Naples and Sapri. Perhaps the most convenient one will be the local, which stops at several points, but offers a bit more flexibility.
Napoli Centrale – Naples, Italy
Napoli Centrale – Naples, Italy
Napoli Centrale – Naples, Italy
Patti – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy
Forest Fire – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy
Gulf of Policastro – InterCity Train to Sapri – Naples, Italy
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Pisacane, a small botique style hotel right on the beach. Unfortunately with the exception of breakfast, the restaurant is closed until tourist season which starts in June. Luckily, that did not turn into an issue for us.
Entrance – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy
Interesting Tree – Hotel Pisacane – Sapri, Italy
The Observatory
A very tall structure overlooking the Gulf of Policastro. It appears to celebrate eight renowned Italian scientist from astronomy, radio and meterology. It is located on the northern part of the beach, close to the Roman Villa Ruins.
Radio Greats Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy
Radio – Volta and Edison – Observatory Tower – Sapri, Italy
Partially perserved under a canopy, the Roman Villa ruins are also north of town and located close to the observatory. The observatory also has some roman ruins near it that appear to be an old roman cellar or other structure.
Old Villa Romana Ruins – Sapri, Italy
Old Villa Romana Ruins – Sapri, Italy
Old Roman Ruins – Sapri, Italy
Old Roman Ruins – Sapri, Italy
Restaurants
While in Sapri we ate at two good restaurants that were noteworthy. Both of which were for a late lunch. We prefer most of the time to eat a heavier lunch and just skip dinner altogether.
Tintobrace Ristorante
An upscale restaurant that offers Calabrian food and fine selection of local wines by the glass. I would recommend the Cacio and Pepe spaghetti.
Insalata Mista with Onions – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy
Pasta with Tomatoes and Roasted Peppers – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy
Cacio and Pepe Spaghetti – Tintobrace Ristorante – Sapri, Italy
Ristorante Lucifero
The Ristorante Lucifero is also a pizzeria and has great pizza and pasta specials. It is located in town and not on the beach and is a bit difficult to spot. Therefore, they have added signs along the way to assist.
Sign to Restaurant – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Entrance – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Secondi and Sides – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Choose your pasta type, choose your sauce – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Veal with Mushrooms and Insalata Mista – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Veal with Mushrooms – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Pasta alla Ragu – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
Inside – Ristorante Lucifero – Sapri, Italy
I can commend the Aglianico from Paestum, Italy. Luigi Maffini’s Klèos comes in 50cl bottles and pairs perfectly with pasta and other tomato based dishes. I love Aglianico, it is a deep, clear, ruby wine with hints of plum, berry and dark fruit and is very tasty.
On our second and final day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to enjoy a lemon experience near Tramonti. After our tour and lunch, we visited the other smaller Amalfi towns of Maiori, Minori and finally Cetara. There is not much to see in any of them and may be skipped. Except perhaps for Minori, which if you are looking for a beach spot along the coast, may offer the best option.
Getting There
On our second day we had arranged for the same tour guide that we had the previous day, Mind The Nap tours[1]If you would like to find them, they are on one of the more frequently used social media applications.. Therefore, we took a hired vehicle from Naples to drive once again over the Anti Appenine mountains, via SP2a, to Tramonti and then to the other coastal towns. Returning along the coastal road via Vietri sul Mare and A3.
Coming Into Tramonti – Tramonti, Italy
Tramonti
The term for this comune and town literaly means, in between the mountains. As we can attest with the photographs that we took, it definitely is in between the mountains. Our guide explained that the mixture of sun, heat and moisture is excellent for growing lemons in the area and some varieties of grapes.
Azienda Agricola Lemon Experience
Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle can provide a lemon experience. It is part guided tour, part lunch, with the most complete explanation of lemons you will probably ever experience.
Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Lemon Experience Tour
Our tour started out where are tour guide dropped us off, near the small abandoned church of Chiesa parrocchiale S. Elia Profeta in Ferriera, Tramonti.
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
Courtyard – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
Here our young guide explained in english all the geological, climate and other aspects of lemon growing, while pointing our specific areas between the mountains we were in.
The Surrounding Countryside – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Patti and Ruben – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Poppies – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Alessandro and Patti – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Then he took us to an old man named Ruben, definitely not an Italian name, who explained the horticulture of lemon trees. He showed us how he dries out different kind of seeds from fruit and vegetables that he has raised since he was a child with his father. He is seventy-four years old and does not look a day over sixty.
Ruben Explaining Lemons and Lemon Growing – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Blossoms, Unripe and Ripe Lemons All On The Same Tree – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Ruben Seed Drying, The Old Fashion Way – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Then we had a cute little photograph session, where he had a small chair strategically placed within his one lemon grove.
Patti, Erick and Ruben – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Patti, Erick and Alessandro – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Lemon Experience Luncheon
The luncheon was prepared by Ruben’s wife, Luisa. While she cooked inside their small garden house, Ruben prepared for us a Limoncello Spritz for each of us. It was delicious, as well as all the food that was served.
Ruben Making Limoncello Spritz – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Once we started drinking that, which was made using his own Limoncello, the food started coming out. First the appetizers, then more plentiful food and last a portion of Lasagna.
Real Baked Italian Lasagna With Pancetta – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Dolci – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Patti and Erick Enjoying Lunch – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Le Formichelle Limoncello – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Luisa And Pasqual In The Kitchen – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Their Brick Oven – Azienda Agricola Le Formichelle – Tramonti, Italy
Maiori
The town of Maiori literally means “major”, after the river which now flows under the Corso Reginna, the river Reghinna Maiori. It has over the years been abbreviated to just Maiori. First founded by the Etruscans, it was later conquered by the Romans, like the rest of Italy.
Saint Mary of the Sea – Maiori, Italy
Town From Beachside – Maiori, Italy
The Beach – Maiori, Italy
The Beach – Maiori, Italy
Corso Reginna – Maiori, Italy
Corso Reginna – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo
One specific spot to visit would be the Palazzo Mezzacapo, which is situated just off the Corso Reginna in town. It has an very interesting garden with underground vaulted wells.
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Palazzo Mezzacapo – Gardens – Maiori, Italy
Minori
The same is true for the town of Minori, which literally means “minor”, after the river which now flows through it, the Reghinna Minori. The town’s name over the years been abbreviated to just Minori. It’s claim to fame is was used by the Roman high society as a seaside resort. It does have the longest and widest swath of beach on the coast.
Entering Town – Minori, Italy
Main Street SS163 – Minori, Italy
Narrow Alleys – Minori, Italy
Narrow Alleys – Minori, Italy
Typical Small Town Alley – Minori, Italy
Clock Tower – Minori, Italy
Old Millstones – Minori, Italy
Basilica Saint Trofimena – Minori, Italy
Basilica Saint Trofimena – Minori, Italy
Main Shopping Street – Minori, Italy
Lion Fountain – Minori, Italy
Beachfront – Minori, Italy
Beach – Minori, Italy
Beach – Minori, Italy
Patti and Erick – Leaving Minori – Minori, Italy
Beach – Minori, Italy
Cetera
This small town was most likely named after the tuna fishermen that used to live there, as well as the fishmongers, or cetari. Its most important feature is one of the larger Amalfi Coast towers, which dot the coastline and were once used for protection by the Amalfi Federation, or Duchy of Amalfi.
Weather Moving In – Cetara, Italy
Lemon Groves – Cetara, Italy
More Lemon Groves – Cetara, Italy
Covered Lemon Trees – Cetara, Italy
Amalfi Coastline – Cetara, Italy
Amalfi Coast – Cetara, Italy
Coming Into Town – Cetara, Italy
Dome Of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy
Beach and Tower of Cetara – Cetara, Italy
Beach Restoration – Cetara, Italy
Town Sign – Cetara, Italy
Narrow Walkways – Cetara, Italy
Bronze Doors – Parochial Church of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy
Entrance – Parochial Church of Saint Peter – Cetara, Italy
In Conclusion
We enjoyed our trip to the Amalfi Coast, overall it was a worthwhile experience. Though I would caution, for me, it did not live up to all of the hype and hyperbole surrounding it as a destination. With some of the towns entertaining cruise ships during the tourist season, it truly could turn into one of the more exasperating places to visit at the wrong time of the calendar year.
Lemon Groves – Tramonti, Italy
Lemon Groves – Tramonti, Italy
The Lemon Groves – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
In Between Mountains – The Parochial Church Of Saint Elia Profeta – Tramonti, Italy
However, we had amazing weather, perfect temperatures and manageable numbers of tourist. Though some places were not available to us at this time, since they open up in the later May and June timeframes for peak season; this was not a problem for us, since we are not big shoppers. In any case, we would commend a tour, or private tour if you can afford it. Removing the need to drive the winding roads, was alone a big plus for us.
The second part of our first day was filled with visiting the town Amalfi on the eponymouos coast and Ravello, a bit further away from the shore, but still part of the famous coastline. We joined our driver again, who drove the windy and treacherous coastal road between Positano and Amalfi, while we took the ferry to enjoy the coastline.
Interesting Entrance Decoration – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Getting There
To get to Amalfi, we took the ferry from Positano. It is a thirty minute boat ride along the coast, which when the weather cooperates provides beautiful scenery and a great occasion to take photographs.
Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Ferry Ride from Positano to Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Entering Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Dockside at Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
To get to Ravello from Amalfi, you probably should use or hire a car. Since we were had hired a private tour guide for all day, we used the car to ascend the five kilometers up the coast to the town.
Our Tour Guides Having Typical Italian Discussion While Driving – Pasqual and Federica – Ravello, Italy
Ravello Next Stop – Leaving Amalfi – Amalfi, Italy
Our Tour Guides Having Typical Italian Discussion While Driving – Pasqual and Federica – Ravello, Italy
The Coast Up To Our Next Stop – Ravello, Italy
When we arrived, we took a photograph to remember the occasion.
Our Private Tour Group – Driver Pasqual, Tour Guide Federica, Patti and Erick – Ravello, Italy
Amalfi
Perhaps fourth best of all the towns along the coast is Amalfi. Some may be surprised, but that is based on our experience of most of the towns. There are many factors for this, including the terrible idea of using part of the waterfront as a parking area, instead of a boardwalk, or even another beach. Therefore, it comes after Positano, Vietri sul Mare[1]this town also has coastal parking, but here it works because it is part of a boardwalk and beach complex. and Ravello.
Amalfi from parking lot – Amalfi, Italy
Amalfi from parking lot – Amalfi, Italy
Typical white houses – Amalfi, Italy
Main Piazza – Amalfi, Italy
Main shopping street – Amalfi, Italy
Mermaid fountain – Amalfi, Italy
It does have a beautiful cathedral, which unfortunately was closed at the time of our visit.
Cathedral of Saint Andrew the Apostle – Amalfi, Italy
The town has the customary narrow stairs, stairways, alleyways and tunnels, providing a reprieve from the hot summer days for travelers. There are also some interesting fountains in Amalfi, one actually has a cute little diorama built into it of little character, shepards and animals, along with the customary goldfish swimming below.
Narrow stairways – Amalfi, Italy
Narrow alleyways – Amalfi, Italy
More narrow stairs – Amalfi, Italy
Tunnels – Amalfi, Italy
Narrow stairs that go up, up – Amalfi, Italy
Fountain with diorama – Amalfi, Italy
Mermaid fountain – Amalfi, Italy
Ravello
Unlike most other towns along the coast, Ravello kind of stood out. Not only is it more relaxing, since it is obviously visited by fewer people, it is quieter and more laid back. This is most likely due to its smaller size, its elevation and distance from the coast.
Piazza Centrale – Ravello, Italy
Map Of The Town – Ravello, Italy
The Countryside – Ravello, Italy
Very Old Buildings – Ravello, Italy
Some find it a better alternative than Amalfi. For one, there are better views from the town, from where visitors can see Amalfi’s classic rocky coastline. Plus the relaxed atmosphere adds to the pleasure, especially if you have time to sit and enjoy a drink, or have a gelato at one of the many artigianale gelaterias in the town.
Gelateria – Ravello, Italy
The Narrow Town Streets – Ravello, Italy
Ceramics And Glass From Coast – Ravello, Italy
Duomo di Revallo
The main church in town is the Duomo di Ravello, which was unfortunately closed while we were visiting, so the interior remains a mystery to us.
Duomo Ravello – Piazza Centrale – Ravello, Italy
Villa Rufolo
For a small entrance fee you can visit Villa Rufolo in Ravello. The entrance shows some interesting designs and details, that continue in deeper parts of the villa.
Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Cupola At Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Details By Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Looking Back Out Of Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
In Between The Rooms By Entrance – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
One Of The Towers – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Old Baking And Cooking Ovens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Inside And Some Old Portal Lintel – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Ornate Design Of Villa Vaulted Areas – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Vaulted Area To Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Double Columed Vaulted Area – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The villa is rather simple, but has some interesting items, like an old stove and a tower. It is kept in relatively fine shape and is a pleasure to walk through.
Richard Wagner The Composer Was Here – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Ornate Lintel And Rooms – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Old Vaulted Ceilings – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Simple Beautiful With Murano Glass Chandelier – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Another Room With Chandelier – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Old Iron Stove – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Some of the external structures include a tower, a vaulted building that appears to have been an old chapel and some other old structures near the gardens.
Outer Building – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Tower – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Old Stone Walls – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Outer Building – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
It has a magnificent garden with a beautiful view of the sea. They actually hold concerts from the garden, by extending a stage over the side of the hill, providing a wonderful backdrop for music and other performances.
The Coast Looking Toward Vietri sul Mare – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Coast Looking Toward Vietri sul Mare – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Church of Saint Mary of Grace – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Coastline From The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
The Gardens – Villa Rufolo – Ravello, Italy
Restaurants
As part of our first day at the coast, we stopped in Amalfi for lunch some time after one in the afternoon.
Entrance – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy
Taverna Buonvicino
A very nice restaurant with a beautiful terrace outside, which is off the beaten path, so no worries about hordes of tourist bothering you while eating.
Ravioli and Insalata Mista – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy
Linguini with anchovy sauce – Taverna Buonvicino – Amalfi, Italy
They also have a very good wine list which is stocked with local favorites. I can commend one varietal, Taurasi Lo Scudiero (DOCG), which was exceptionally good.
Our second day to the Amalfi Coast, we learned that it is a jagged and very difficult area to navigate. Even with a car it is very windy and has only a few, very narrow roads. Cut out of rock, with the only barrier between you and a thousand foot drop, is an eighteen inch thick concrete wall. Most of the time you can take photographs over it from sitting in your vehicle, so aside from the danger, the road offers amazing views of the sea and the coast.
Getting There
There are not many options, aside from bus service and driving. Bus service seems to be a thriving business, but how they negotiate the roads is beyond me. We found it treacherous enough in our private tour van. If you are prone to motion sickness, take your medication before you leave and attempt the drive.
Driving from Chiaia – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Naples, Italy
Coastal Road – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Naples, Italy
Mind The Nap
We used Mind The Nap private tours for a two day tour of several towns and a lemon experience. They picked up us up at our hotel in Chiaia and it took us over an hour to go through Naples and over the mountains to the coast.
Vesuvius – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Naples, Italy
Vico Equense – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
The views on the first part of the drive were all of Naples and the surrounding area. However, once we ascended the steep mountains and crossed over the top, we entered Sorrento and the jagged coast of Amalfi.
Coastal Roads – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Vico Equense – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Lemon Stand – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Patti – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Mile Marker on State Road – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Tordigliano Belvedere – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Tordigliano Belvedere – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Tordigliano Belvedere – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Li Galli Isles – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Getting close to Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Our tour driver Pasquale used SS163, so we approached Positano from the west. This allowed us to stop along the route several times to enjoy the coastline views.
Upper Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Entering the town – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry Dock and Bay – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Scooters – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Patti – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Erick – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Positano
Positano is a small, but beautiful little seaside town at the end of the Amalfi Coast. It is probably the most charming out of all the towns you will find on the coastline. The Strand, or Beach, is small by italian standard, but is most likely filled during the summer, even though it is mostly rocky and you probably have to use footwear.
Lemon Shops – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
High Cliffs – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Federica, our tour guide – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Map of the area – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Via del Mulini – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Via del Mulini – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Map of Boat Routes – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Boardwalk – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Beach and upper Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Coastline – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
The town is full of stairways and tiny, narrow walkways. In the off-season it is fairly quiet and some of the establishments may not be open until June. Of course, like other places along this coast, you will find a lot of pottery and glassware.
Harlequin – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Pulcinella – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church
One of the more prominent features in town is the church Santa Maria Assunta. It is one of the churches that has a Black Madonna from the thirteenth century Byzantine period.
Entrance Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Tower of Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry Service
There is Ferry Service from Positano to other parts of the coast. This can be a very effecient way to visit the other towns along the coast, especially if you do not want to negotiate the treacherous roads.
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Tickets For Two – Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
We took the ferry from Positano to Amalfi, while our tour driver drove the route to the other location. It is highly recommended, since you get a perfect view of the coastline, the towns along and the mountains as a backdrop, at least on a clear day.
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Restaurants
We didn’t really eat here, but we did stop for a drink. The view from many of the bars on the boardwalk is very relaxing and enjoyable.
Blu Bar
At the Blu Bar we just stopped for drinks, which euphemistically means that we had to use the bathroom. The drinks were fairly high-priced, but the facilities were very clean and well maintained. Not sure I would eat here though, the reviews were not very good.
Patti – Blu Bar – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
On our first day to the Amalfi Coast, we were fortunate enough to be able to use the train service to get to Vietri sul Mare. Though in hindsight we probably should have used the longer, though more direct regional service, we opted instead for the faster option and had to change trains three times! Don’t make that mistake.
Coast and Mountains – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Vietri sul Mare
Vietri sul Mare is one of the small towns that comprise the Amalfi Coast. It is also known as the gateway to the coast, the rest are accessible only by car, bus or possibly boat, there is no continuing train service beyond Vietri sul Mare.
Park and Overlook coming into town – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The Church’s tiled dome – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The town is known for its glassware and ceramic factories and shops. Here you will find of plethora of shops selling all sorts of tiles, porcelain and other types of ceramics for use in the house and as decoration.
The old cermic factory – Ceramica Artistica Solimene Vincenzo – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Villa Comunale Vietri sul Mare – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The town is small enough to easily visit within a day. We only needed a few hours to cover the entire town, even walking down from the train station, which luckily has an elevator to bring you down most of the way. However, it should be noted, you will have to walk several hundred meters downhill to reach the beach and then up again. Like the other coastal towns, it is built on a very steep hillside.
Solerno Container Ship port – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
View of ships – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Long and narrow stairways – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Long and narrow stairways – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Clean Streets – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Narrow Alleys – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Getting There
To get to Vietri sul Mare, we had to take two trains from Naples. First, we took a regional train to Napoli Centrale, since the metro was not working. Then we took another train to Solerno. After about a ten minute layover, we took a regional train then to Vietri sul Mare.
Napoli Centrale Station – Naples, Italy
For our return, we decided to take regional train back, since it offered a longer, but more direct option to the Piazza Amadeo station by our hotel, removing the need for us to get off and change trains.
Solerno Station – Solerno, Italy
Ceramic Tiled Houses
The town is full of tiled shops and buildings. Most of the shop owners tile their entrances as part decoration and part advertisement.
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Tiled Store Fronts – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Ceramic souvenirs – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Terracota – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Ceramics – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Case Colorate
Perhaps the only house specifically known for its on-going construction and colorful use of tiles. Even when we were there, they seem to be embarking on some new expenditure, both inside and out.
Case Colorate – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Case Colorate – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Case Colorate – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Case Colorate – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Two Brothers
The Two Brothers are apparently from local legend, since when you finally see them, there are not two of them. In any case, it makes for an interesting backdrop for a photograph.
View of ships – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Patti – The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Erick – The Two Brothers – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Restaurants
Since this was a day trip, we had time for lunch. Although we did have a few restaurants in mind, the following we found serendipitously.
Sole di Vietri
A small restaurant, comparable to a trattoria that serves very good food. Seating outside is limited and might be an issue during the summer months, when it is very busy.
Front – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
The menu offers daily specials and real home cooking, Italian style. You will find dishes derived from local cuisine, as well as some neopalitan and Italian favorites.
Cold Zucchini with Balsamic and Stuffed Peppers – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Squid with tomatoes and potatoes – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Pasta Fresca – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Our Table and Menu – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
However, all meals should end in a nice glass of Limonchello, a favorite and local specialty.
Limonchello – Sole de Vietri Ristorante – Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Recently we made a decision to return to Naples, if only to use it as a launch point to visit the Amalfi Coast. It was a brief return to enjoy the food and some of the sites we fell in love with four years ago.
Naples
When we travel to Naples, we usually stay in Chiaia. It is an upscale and slightly newer part of Naples that offers a bit more quiet and relief from the tourist activity in the center. It also offers a furnicular to Vomero, which can be used to hop over to the Spanish Quarter, as well as great metro and regional train service.
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Coming into Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Getting There
We took the FrecciaRossa TrenItalia service from Torino’s Porta Nuova. It takes about six hours and makes about just as many stops along the way. We normally purchase or make sandwiches for such trips, so that we may enjoy the trip without getting overly hungry.
Coming into Naples – Naples, Italy
View from our hotel – Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
View from our hotel – Pinto Storey – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Hotel Pinto Storey
Again, we booked the Pinto Storey hotel in Chiaia. A simple, quiet three star hotel occupying one floor by the Piazza Amadeo. It is a very convenient place to stay, because there is the metro and regional train stop in the Piazza, which gives you quick access to the entire city and beyond.
We visited the Spanish Quarter before and see that there is much more activity here now, since we were last here at the end of the pandemic. It is worth a walk through if you have never been here and there seem to be several streets now that have active stores and street vendors on them.
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Spanish Quarter – Naples, Italy
Centro
The center part of the city has not changed a bit. The central shopping street is just a busy as when we were here last time. A stroll up the christmas street is also a must if you come for a visit.
Obelisk San Domenico – Naples, Italy
Via Vicaria Vecchia – Naples, Italy
Porta d’Alba – Naples, Italy
Piazza Dante – Naples, Italy
Piazza Dante – Naples, Italy
Voremo
One our way back to Chiaia we took the furnicular up to Voremo to get a few photographs of Monte Somma and Vesuvius. They do not cost much and provide an easy means for getting around the more difficult parts of the city.
Tickets for Two – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Furnicular – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Furnicular – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Capri – Vomero – Naples, Italy
Restaurants
We came to Naples having only one restaurant on our list of places we wanted to visit. Any others were based on proximity or a quick search for a place to eat. However, half of the time we were here, we didn’t even eat dinner. Preferring rather to enjoy a large lunch at our day trip destinations instead.
Osteria Pignatelli
A highly rated restaurant, that for all intents and purposes you should call for a reservation, since it tends to get very busy. The interior is appealing and fairly modern. The food is very good as well. Perhaps not the best I have had in Naples, but equal to the Michelin stars they have earned.
Front – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Pasta Genovese – Osteria Pignatelli – Chiaia – Naples, Italy
Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria
On Via dei Tribunali is the Portico Pizzeria é Trattoria. We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a nice meal at surprisingly reasonable prices for this part of the city. The service was timely and the food was very good, so it is commendable.
Entrance – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Patti – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Pasta Fresca and Insalata Mista – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Mozzarella Spoon – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Erick – Portico Pizzeria e Trattoria – Naples, Italy
Pizzeria Staiano Dal 1964
This is a small family own trattoria that specializes in pizza. They also have a menu that changes each day, which contains a nice selection of local specialities.
A popular tourist destination for the Swiss, Germans and Netherlanders is the small town of Luino on the northeast end of Lake Maggiore. The boat services on the lake are divided here for destinations north of it and south of it. From the south, especially from Stresa, it is difficult, if not impossible, to arrange a roundtrip to this town except on wednesdays. Even to get here by train is a three to five hour ordeal and roundtrips by rail or bus are all but out of the question. The town is truely lacking service from the southern end of the lake.
Other Boat Leaving – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Luino
It seems a popular destination for people from the north, who are either staying in Switzerland or the nearby town of Cannobio. It is especially busy on Wednesdays, this is when the town holds its weekly market. [1]Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
Wednesday Market Place – Luino, Italy
Hemlock Near Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Luino, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Luino, Italy
At one time the town was heavily industrialized and there were many textile factories here, which accounted for the terrible pollution the lake had to endure for years after its demise. Luckily today, the lake has considerably cleaner water that in the previous century.
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Getting There
From the north, the map shows all traffic by boat going through Cannobio. From the south, we took the boat from Stresa. From there we stopped a half dozen times before reaching our destination.
Navigation Map – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Stresa Boat Dock – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
It should be noted, if you are traveling from the south and want to go further than Luino, you can, you just may have to change boats in Luino.
Beautiful Day – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Coming Into Our First Stop – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Arriving In Luino – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Our Boat – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
From Stresa the trip is not inexpensive to Luino. For roundtrip tickets it cost us €15.20 per person[2]or about $18 per person.
Tickets For Two – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Church of Saints Peter and Paul
A walk through the town and above most if, you will find the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. An unusual church which looks more like an administrative building than a church.
Front And Entrance – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
The inside does have some marble, but the rest of the nave and ceiling are painted in the style trompe-l’œil, giving the impression of relief where none really exists.
Nave – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Altar – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Restaurants
When we arrived in Luino, we only had three hours before our boat trip back, so we had to make good use of our time. Subsequently, we looked for a place to eat first and chose the Trattoria da Elia e Ugo.
Front – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Trattoria da Elia e Ugo
A small restaurant that caters to locals and tourists alike. They speak very good english, so there should be no problem with the language; they are even willing to look words up in order to make sure they have the correct word.
Entrance – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Patti – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
The food is very good and well portioned. The caprese is rather large and good enough for two. The pasta dishes are also fairly large and well seasoned.
Caprese – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Pasta Special – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Aside from the popular marketplace on wednesdays and the odd historical monument, there really is not much to see in Lunio. Coming from the south, it can only be commended for the odd day trip with lunch as the primary reason for the expedition, since it is rather far away and the boat service only runs roundtrip on wednesday, so plan accordingly.
Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
