Palermo, Sicily – Mediterranean Nexus

Situated on the north coast of the autonomous region of Sicily is Palermo, both the capital of the province and of the region itself. It is an ancient city which has been ruled over its long history by many different powers. It was once a nexus for essential trade routes in the Mediterranean Sea.

Via Bara All’Olivella – Palermo, Sicily

We arrived at the Palermo Airport, which is actually not in Palermo, but in Punta Raisi. There are many options one can take in order to get to Palermo, ranging from the train at 6.50€/person, all the way up to private shuttle service starting at 50€/person. Being from a family of railroad workers, I prefer to take a train when possible. Not only is a far cheaper, but in Italy they almost always run on time.

One last thing, unfortunately our Tickets For Two were electronic, so it does not make sense to show, nor take a photograph of them. Let us just say, we had two tickets on a Ryanair flight from Turin to Palermo at a very reasonable rate.

A Working City

In our contemporary time, I would say the city of Palermo is struggling between its ancient roots, as with many other parts of Italy, and its desire to be modern. This is reflected in many ways as you walk through its narrow alleyways and marbled streets. Some of which are well worn with centuries of wear.

Churches of Palermo

Palermo sports amazing architecture and a church around almost every corner. The Gesu Church and the Palermo Cathedral, may be of particular interest.

The Massimo Theater

On the other cultural side of things, there is the Massimo Theater. An impressive building that is named after the piazza in which it resides.

Other Parts of the City

A few other interesting sites include the Porta Nuovo and several parks, one of which has a magnificent example of an Australian Banyan tree. However, there are many site to enjoy while strolling the city streets, sometimes it pays just to get lost, even if your favorite map is uncooperative.

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Hotel Massimo Plaza

Situated in the Piazza Massimo, almost at the start of the pedestrian zone on via Maqueda, was our unassuming hotel, Hotel Massimo Plaza. The staff was very helpful and our breakfast was served in our room, which we often find very helpful, especially when the weather is not cooperating, like it wasn’t on this trip.

Restaurants

In our short stay in Palermo, we found the following restaurants noteworthy. The cuisine of Palermo is typical for a southern Italian port city, most restaurants having plenty of fish and seafood on the menu. However, there are plenty of pizza places and small cafes as well, where one can purchase smaller items for takeout or to eat as they walk.

Ristorante Pizzeria Italia

This restaurant was just around the corner of our hotel and offers authentic and excellent southern Italian pizza. You may see the term pizze in your travels, but do not be deterred,  that is just the plural form in Italian for more than one pizza, it’s the same thing.

We ordered a caprese and a pizza each, I had a glass of wine and we ordered a bottle of water and the bill came to 25€ with 4€ coperto.

On To Cefalu

After our short stay here, it was on to the real start of our trip, Cefalu. Although there is plenty more to see and do in Palermo, our trip itinerary did not allow us any more time here. So using our senior discount cards, we purchased two more Trenitalia tickets and we were on our way.

In the event we do return, we plan to stay here longer and perhaps see more of the western portion of the island as well. Aside from the rain, we still had a pretty good time here and enjoyed the city of Palermo for its sites, cuisine and true grit.

Côte d’Azur – Èze-Village

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The tiny medieval town of Èze-Village sits like a barnacle some fourteen hundred feet above the sea. From this perch you can see miles of coastline. The other part of the commune Èze-sur-Mer sits directly below it, very close to the sea. Historically, it is very old, going way back before Roman times. As I write this, I must confess some incredulity as why anyone would build something back then so high up and away from the sea. The only answer I can come up with is for protection from what I can only conjecture.

Getting There From Nice

To get to Èze-Village (tourism) from Nice you have several public commuting options, in order of difficulty. You can take the bus directly there. The route was 82 at the time of this writing, but this may change, so check the bus schedule. The easiest was to do this is at the Information Center at the Nice Train Station. Keep in mind that buses depart from different places in the city, so you will either have to walk or make other arrangements, bus or tram perhaps, to get there. If a direct bus route is not to your liking you can also take the SNCF train. These run along the coast and depart from Nice regularly and stop at Èze-sur-Mer. You will then have to take the bus to Èze-Village atop the hill, or, hike up the hill which will take about an hour.

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Èze-Village – From the Bus Stop

For those who experience motion sickness take care, as any bus ride you take will require the necessary sedatives or medications. The roads are very windy and have numerous switchbacks!

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The Nietzsche Footpath – Length Over 2km

For those who cannot see their own toes and cannot touch them without bending their knees, I would not consider trying to hike up the mountain. It is somewhat treacherous and steep. We used it to return and on the way down we saw an older couple who were going down and having trouble (read shortness of breath, etc). The Nietzsche Footpath is impressive, it is not a real footpath but more like a hiking trail and has probably taken its share of victims over the years. Be smart and do NOT ignore the sign at the start.

Not knowing these options ahead of time, we decided to take the bus directly from Nice. Before it even arrived, there was quite a group of people waiting at the stop. If you do have motion sickness issues you may want to wait for a bus that is not packed or ask someone on the bus once you are on, if you may have a window seat. This is especially true if your bus driver, like ours, must have dreams of driving Formula One race cars! If your bus is as crowded as ours was, you may not be able to look out. So again, be prepared, you’ve been warned!

The Botanical Garden

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Èze-Village – Overview from Botanical Garden

At the summit of this beautiful little town, sits a Botanical Garden. Called Èze Botanical Garden it displays vegetation that typically grows along the Mediterranean coast. The entry fee for us was 5€ and you pay right there before you go in. It’s probably money well spent since the views are amazing and they obviously use the money to keep the garden up, which I must say is in fantastic condition.

There are also several places in the garden to take photographs.

The Botanical Garden also has an excellent view of the Devil’s Bridge (I know every town and country seems to have this bridge, but it’s pretty cool to see anyway).

The Perfumeries

In Èze-Village there are several Perfumeries where one can make an appointment to actually spend time with a certified Perfumologist and mix their own fragrance. The two major ones that sit next to one another, are Galimard and Fragonard. We chose Galimard, for whatever reason and found the whole process quite intriguing, though completely out of my league (I just do not have the nose for it). The cost at 80€ each can be considered high but includes you walking away with your own scent. Which, if you consider would be in the range of 50€ to 60€, probably is not a bad deal for expert help.

Getting Back To Nice

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Tagliatelle al Ragu, Salad and Wine – YUM!

After all of this, it was time for lunch. We found a nice little place right at the beginning of the village called “Mets Vins Chics“. They serve all kinds of lunch fare and wine at reasonable prices. If you do come to this area, you may notice how closely related the food in this area is to the neighboring Italian cities and towns. With the historical fluidity of borders and commerce, it should not be a surprise and it sure tastes good!

Once finished with our meal, our daughter Ericka wanted to check out Fragonard as well. They have somewhat of a larger showroom but unfortunately no longer mixed nor sold the fragrance she was interested in. So we left there, kind of disappointed.

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The Nietzsche Footpath – Treacherous, like his Philosophy

It was time to head back and I decided to take the Nietzsche Footpath and the SNCF train back to Nice. The path is very steep and one must take care to make sure you do not slip and fall. It is also very long and will take you approximately 40 to 45 minutes just to descend. Then, there is another 5 minutes or so to walk to the train station along the road where the path exits.

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Èze-Village is a very nice, interesting place to visit. There is not much there save the view and the garden, so I would suggest bundling it with something else, like the Perfumery, to make it worth the time and expense.