Tag: museum

Posted on

Chapel Hill, North Carolina – A Weekend Escape

Chapel Hill And The Carolina Inn

As a Christmas gift from our children, we recently had a weekend stay at the Carolina Inn in beautiful Chapel Hill, North Carlolina. Celebrating its one hundred year anniversary this year, this old colonial inn is an integral part of the town and the university.

Ideally located within walking distance to almost everything within the town, it is a good home base for those who would rather not get in and out of the car constantly. Within five or ten minutes, you can reach Franklin Street and its restaurants, cafes and shopping, and the college is just a stone’s throw away. Parking is $26/night for either self-park or valet service and the lot is attended overnight.

The UNC Campus

The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill dominates the town and gives Chapel Hill that old university town feel. As one walks through the grounds of the university, it is easy to see the different architectural and building styles that were adopted throughout the years.

The walkways are appointed with old style colonial lamps in many areas and in some areas it is possible to think of what it might have been like back in those times. The architectural wonders even extend to some of the fraternity houses and other ancillary buildings on the campus. The only other remarkable things of note are the massive and beautiful trees that line most of the streets, many of which probably have been around as long as the university itself.

Moorehead Planetarium

The Moorehead Planetarium is always a nice place to visit, especially if you have children. For a modest fee, you can enjoy both a planetarium show, as well as the museum, which also provides hands-on learning exhibits for younger visitors.

The most enjoyable part however is the planetarium itself. Although they were totally booked on the Saturday and we were unable to see a show with our small party of five, they did have opening for Super Bowl Sunday. So we were able to enjoy their wonderful presentation, “One Sky, Many Eyes”. Though totally automated now with computers and an updated projection system, I do miss the old planetarium projectors.

Ackland Art Museum

If you are ever in the area, I cannot think of a better place to spend a few hours of your afternoon than at the Ackland Museum. Frankly, for me it was a surprise and delight, the free admission making it even more so. Having nothing else to do on our somewhat rainy day and weekend, we decided to go after our quick stroll down Franklin Street (there are signs on the pavement on Franklin, so just follow them if you are not sure).

The exhibits are eclectic in way and a bit varied, but most somehow unexpectedly go together, perhaps owing to very good planning and the way the building splits into separate areas.

I found the mixed media video of the eyeball and voice over rather well done, strange and quite interesting. Shown on a sphere, it actually had that eyeball look.

The museum also has a nice collection of Indian, Southeast Asian and Indonesian Art. Some contemporary and others a bit older. All in all, we thoroughly enjoyed it and found it to be a total surprise, not expecting too much when we entered.

Restaurants

Chapel Hill offers a wide variety of restaurants. Most of the ones that populate the small area around Franklin street, cater to the university students, so you will find them somewhat budget friendly and internet centric. The more upscale restaurants, you will find further out of the main town and on the periphery.

TRU Cafe

A small cafe down Henderson Street, it has both inside and outside seating and definitely caters to the university students.

The service is very relaxed and all orders are done via their website, which at the time of this writing, was a nightmare and terrible. However, after only several attempts, we were all able to submit our orders. We were not surprised to learn later, that some of our orders did not come out and we had to re-ordered them; so, bring your patience with you. And no, they do NOT have their own phone application and no, the service people will not take your order.

Osteria Georgi

This small restaurant is situated on the corner of a small strip mall on South Elliot street and Franklin. They have both inside and outside seating and a fairly attentive staff. We sat outside, since it was tolerably warm out and it was packed inside; we didn’t want to catch anything before traveling back to Europe in the next few weeks.

The food was good, I ordered the lasagna which was very tasty and my wife order the Pasta Vongole. The Gattinara was excellent and I would commend it to anyone willing to try something a bit different.

Carolina Coffee Shop

The Carolina Coffee Shop says it is the oldest restaurant in town and is split in two, one side does only coffee and take-out, while the other offers a restaurant experience with full staff. Wanting the sit down experience, we tried the restaurant.

The sandwiches are very good and the service was timely. It can get busy during peak lunch hour, so if you are willing to wait a bit and eat later, the atmosphere is more relaxed and subdued.

IL Palio Restaurant

One of our old-time favorites is the Il Palio in Chapel Hill. Located in the Siena Hotel, this restaurant usually features exceptional service and even a piano player while you order and eat. Unfortunately, we were there on Super Bowl weekend so the service was limited to the outside bar area and there was no music.

However, that did not prevent us from having a good time and enjoying the excellent food that is provided by the kitchen staff. Additionally, compared with other places, the prices no longer look as inflated as perhaps in previous years.

We would like to thank our children for the gift, we had a wonderful time. It was a great gift and being the travelers we are, we wouldn’t mind doing it again in a different town in North Carolina, if the occasion were to present itself.

Posted on

Budapest, Hungary – Lively Pest

Pest – Where The Real Life Is

Budapest is a very clean city, with a strange, almost quiescent nature to it. For the most part there is a noticeable absence of police, yet there appears to be very little crime, or at least the appearance of no crime, unlike other countries like Italy or France, where the authorities parade around with weapons and make their presence known.

The Pest side of Budapest has most, if not all, of the hotels and many of the restaurants. It has monuments on every corner and more history than you probably want to consume. Both sides are very active, but the Pest side is the side where all the boats dock, like Viking River Cruises and others, so it can get quite busy after ten o’clock in the morning.

Though beautiful, after a while you realize, like so many other cities in Europe, it’s all about the facade. It’s all brick underneath, mortar and stone.

Parliament Tour

For anyone visiting Budapest, the Parliament on the Pest side is an attraction that must be seen. However, be careful when purchasing tickets! There are a few official looking websites out there that purchase them for you at double the price. Check and double check your search engine and map application to ensure you have the official website. It will be quite obvious if you do, since you will receive your tickets immediately, instead of waiting for them to „appear“ in your mailbox.

Looking at the front of the building from the land side, you enter from the right and below ground. There are also some interesting monuments before you enter worth seeing, so keep your eyes open for them.

The tour is rather long but very thorough. We were even able to catch a glimpse of their unicameral legislature in-session! We were actually quite impressed with the thoroughness and professionalism of the tour. Though we thought they spoke at length, perhaps too long, about the crown jewels, which of course you were unable to photograph.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Restaurants

Here are a few more restaurants we visited in Budapest, one of which I wish I never went to due to social media idiots.

New York Cafe

There is a term in America and it is quite apropos here, „lipstick on a pig“. My thoughts regarding this cafe were that it was totally over-priced for the quality of food and service received, though the interior was quite impressive

In fact, that can be considered one of the downsides to this cafe; there were so many people mulling around and taking photographs, it was actually quite annoying at times. Especially in this day of social media, where everyone has to take the so called infamous and narcissistic „selfie“ or „influencer“ pose. It makes a person like me almost puke at times.

The food was sub-par for such a restaurant; we had the Pasta Pomodoro and thought although the pasta was done properly, the sauce tasted of nothing. The wine on the other hand was satisfactory in taste, but way over-priced at 50€/bottle. It wouldn’t have been so bad, except the service was just not so great.

Pick Bistro Deli

This little bistro, on Kossuth Lajos tér, is not far from the Parliament building and a great place to stop for lunch after your exhaustive tour.

They have many great Hungarian lunch items to choose from and the staff and service were excellent for us. They also have plenty of open-air seating, which during a warm day makes the visit all that much more enjoyable.

Posted on

Copenhagen, Denmark – Castles & Palaces

Like the British, the Danes are steeped in the tradition of a royal family. With Copenhagen as the capitol of the country, there are numerous castles and palaces that demonstrate the royal family’s hold on the country and its citizens and I guess their imaginations.

The Royal Family

The family owns, either directly or indirectly, three important landmarks within the city of Copenhagen that are castles or palaces. Much has been turned into museum or tourist attraction, no doubt to keep the family coffers full. Some, like Amalienborg, the royal residence, are guarded and entertain a changing of the guard show.

The Palaces

The are many palaces in Copenhagen, perhaps a bit too many to see in one trip. There are the Amalienborg – which contains four palaces, Christriansborg Palace which are right in town, but there is also Frederiksberg Palace and more further out from the city. If you are into grand buildings and royal history, these will probably be must-see spots.

Amalienborg

The current residence of the royal family is in Amalienborg. This palace occupies are large square in almost four city square blocks. It is divided into four distinct buildings with gardens, one of which is the Amalienborg Palace Museum, which may be visited. Each building is a palace in its own right, they are Christian VII’s Palace, Christian VIII’s Palace, Frederick VIII’s Palace and Christian IX’s Palace.

Amalienborg was once the location of two other palaces which either suffered greatly from fire, or burnt to the ground completely. Subsequent construction led to the building of the palaces we see today.

The museum is free to those who enter with a City Card, otherwise the entrance fee is kr.120 (appr. €16)/person. The museum is in a building adjacent to Christian VII’s Palace and has two floors that contain items from the living quarters of past and present royal family members. If you have any transcendent ideas about ownership or property, you may want to skip this museum. I too, had a difficult time understanding why anyone would want to collect that much stuff for personal use. But, I am probably in the minority.

Lastly, there is a collection of the royal medals and other accoutrements, here is a short slideshow on them.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Christiansborg Palace

Today, Christiansborg Palace not only houses museums and other tourist attractions, but it is also the seat of Danish Government. All three branches of government are represented in the Palace. The palace contains horse stables, an old kitchen and the royal reception rooms, all of which can be visited free with the City Card, or kr.155 (about €9)/person.

Originally constructed as Absalon’s Castle, it has been sacked, demolished and burnt to the ground numerous times. In fact, on one occasion it was dismantled brick by brick. Nevertheless, the Danes have always rebuilt some palace structure here, no doubt a testament to their fortitude. To date, there have been at least five reincarnations of the structure. The basement contains an archeological site showing the ancient remains for the first palace and perhaps foundations of even older structures.

The palace contains amazing chandeliers and ceiling details. The following slideshow provides a good overall walk-through of the palace.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

You may also see the old Royal Kitchen, which frankly you can skip. We visited only because we had the City Card and it was free.

The Castles

Be aware, some venues require that you book a time slot, even if you have a City Card. This can be done online, or by showing up at the ticket office and scheduling your visit. The City Card does explain this on the venue’s information site if you click on it.

Rosenborg Castle

As far as castles go, Rosenborg Castle is a fairly small one on the northwest edge of King’s Garden. It was built in Danish Renaissance style in the 1600s as a summer place for King Frederik IV.

The building has very elaborate ceilings, some of which appear to be in the Rococo style.

Of particular interest is the Danish Throne Chair with the three stately lions in front. The chairs are on the third floor on what used to be called the “Long Hall”, it is now called the “King’s Hall”.

There are also several timepieces and at least one Astrolabe of special note.

The rest may be enjoyed in the following slideshow.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

King’s Gardens

The castle also has the “King’s Garden”, a complex of garden paths and interesting things to see that the former residence could enjoy.

Restaurants

On The Sunny Side Italian Restaurant

A very good Italian restaurant on the Nyhavn canal which offers good food and has a decent wine list. A bit pricey, but you are on the canal, and what isn’t pricey in Copenhagen?

Fredco’s Deli

A very small establishment on Grønnegade street which provides a very reasonably priced lunch menu that does include salads. Here you can select from a variety of things for your salad, including dressings. Though a bit on the basic side, if you are tired of eating meat based meals every time you sit down, this might be the stop for you. The interior is in the basement and is very utilitarian in look and feel, but you should be able to find a place to sit and enjoy your lunch.

Posted on

Copenhagen, Denmark – Multiple Museums

After finally dodging a lot of raindrops and having an initial stroll through the city, we decided on museums, first the Copenhagen Museum, then the National Danish Museum. Both of these contain many floors and numerous exhibits and took us a good hour or so to cover each of them.

To get there we had to take the Metro from Kongens Nytorv to  Rådhuspladsen, which is very near the Tivoli Gardens, another venue we were planning to see.

Copenhagen

If you have the time and are a bit of a planner, like we are, you might want to check out the Copenhagen City Cards. There are a two different kinds, each with its own capability. We decided on the Discoverer Card and chose the 72 hour one, giving us 3 days of Metro access and free access to numerous museums, parks and other activities. Though the price is a bit steep at kr.459 (around €60), if you plan properly and keep to your itinerary, you can save some considerable money. Most of the venues in the city run over $20-25/person and with the Metro thrown in, it counts up quickly.

Museums

Both museums are located in the same area, down by Christiansborg Castle, so it is quite easy to do them in a few hours. Then if you have time, you can visit the castle as well.

Copenhagen Museum

The Copenhagen museum is a very good history of the city, from its ancient ramparts, to its present day seat of the royal family. The information about the museum is easily obtained, so I will only go over a few high points and slide show the rest.

The tour starts with the ancient city and its fortifications, some of which have been preserved and are on display.

There is also a good display on human skeletons and analysis on them to show the living conditions back then, which I might add, did not include a lot of health care (as we are used to today).

It is interesting that in the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries there were numerous people who were able to have keys to the city. Others needed a pass in order to walk freely in the city, most of these were provided to the wealthy patrons and businessmen of the time.

It was also a crime to be poor and people were often punished for it. Others, who had committed felonies were often sentenced to death and would remain behind prison doors until their untimely demise. The door below was from Stokhuset prison in 1677, it is where the priest would meet those who were imprisoned there and likely to perish.

Here is a slideshow to show the remainder.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Danish National Museum

The National Museum houses all things Danish, from the Vikings to the present day. There is a very interesting section on the late 1900s, 1960-80 that amused us.

The Viking display and video is very well done. The video on a Viking raid took about 20 minutes to view, but was well worth the time. Although they depicted it as a raid, it was more like a true adventure that took 60+ ships through the Mediterranean Sea and all along the coasts of Spain, France, Italy and north Africa.

The museum has a floor on humanity’s ethnographic differences in culture, clothing, tools and lifestyle. It covers the Scandinavian countries including Greenland and Iceland, as well as large parts of Asia and Meso-America.

The humorous part of the museum contains more contemporary desiderata from our own life and times. They even have a mock-up of a Danish living room from the 1960s. Just the shear volume of artifacts is difficult to imagine, let alone write about.

So, if you have the time in your schedule a visit to both of these museums is definitely worth the time. Especially, if the weather is not cooperating or if you are looking for something to do between your many castle or palace tours that you have arranged.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Restaurants

Karla Restaurant

A great restaurant for lunch, they have an excellent menu and fair prices. The food is tasty and the portion sizes will fill most American appetites. The decor is rather plain and in need of an update, but we found this true of most places we visited in Copenhagen.

Posted on

Turin, Italy – Accorsi Ometto Museum

Museo Accorsi Ometto

In Turin, on via Po and not far from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, is the obscure and easily missed Museo Accorsi Ometto, or the Accorsi Ometto Museum. Actually, when we first arrived in 2019 we had wanted to go, but then it closed suddenly due to Covid. It has now reopened, probably along with surge in tourists we have seen in Turin.

The Entrance and Ticket Office

Though not entirely nondescript, the museum might be easy to walk passed if you are not paying attention. Though now they have several placards outside indicating that something interesting might be going on inside.

The Museum

The museum actually serves a dual purpose, the building is itself an attraction and the house loaned exhibits from time to time. Therefore, for your entrance fee, you actually get two museums in one.

The museum’s current attraction are Works from Venice from the eighteenth century and is called the Museum of Decorative Art. They actually have a very good online introduction and additional information about tickets. We found it easy enough just to walk in.

One thing we did find, the QR codes on most of the exhibits did not work. At least using my phone scanner, I was unable to load anything, so you may have to tour the exhibits without this luxury, though we found many exhibits were already translated.

The exhibit begins with many works of Venetian art, without much in the rooms themselves to see. However, in the latter rooms, both the works of art and the rooms themselves are explained in detail and exhibit some of the finer Piedmont style furnishings and cabinetry.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Finally, there are a few rooms with smaller artifacts in exhibits or porcelain and other expensive materials. Most of these appear to have been decorative, but some actually served useful purposes.

That concludes our visit to one of the smaller museums in Turin. In many ways we found it better designed than some of the larger museums we have been to in the area. The entrance fee is around 12€/person and discounts are available for older adults and children. Here are some last pieces and rooms of note, enjoy!

 

Posted on

Mainz, Germany – Stadtbummel And Lunch

Though we have been in Mainz at least several times, it was before the beginning of this blog. Therefore, after a brief visit to the city to meet our friends and have a walk or stroll throughout the city (also known as a Stadtbummel), a quick mention here seemed almost required.

Day Trip To Mainz

This week we met our good and long time friends Karl Heinz and Isolde in Mainz for lunch and a customary Stadtbummel, if only to see some of the sights Patti has never seen.

To get there, we had to take the RMV S8 line from the Marktplatz in Offenbach to the Römisches Theater in Mainz. Unfortunately for us, there a typical issue which held the train up for forty-five minutes after we boarded and only went for two stops. Apparently something fell onto the tracks and tripped the signal on the line.

Mainzer Dom

Once the item was removed from the tracks, there were no further difficulties and we reached Mainz with plenty of time before lunch. We toured the Mainzer Dom and the Marktplatz, which are side by side, while we enjoyed the exceptional weather we were having for Germany.

Saint Ignatius Church

One of the more colorful churches inside is Saint Ignatius church. Though rather plain from outside the inside is definitely worth a look. The baroque style and paintings are impressive.

Saint Stephan’s Church

A must stop is Saint Stephan’s church, if only to see the famous church windows designed by Marc Chagall. Once inside, the eerie blue glow that occurs inside a bright sunny day is indeed a treat for the eyes.

Almost totally destroyed during World War II along with the rest of Mainz, the church was rebuilt in the late 1950s. Marc Chargall created a number of stained glass windows from 1978 and 1985 depicting scenes from the Bible.

Restaurants

Since we did not actually stay in the city we only had time with our friends to try the following restaurant for lunch.

Hof Ehrenfels

For lunch we ate at Hof Ehrenfels, a stone’s throw away from the Mainzer Dom on Greberstraße. It is actually a three star hotel that also has a very good restaurant with a garden. The four of us ate outside in garden and had Wiener Schnitzel.

Posted on

Straßburg, France – Quaint Border Town

Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg

We arrived by plane from Catania, Sicily in France’s EuroAirport, also known as the Basel-Mulhouse-Friebourg airport. You arrive via the air and exit in any one of three countries, Switzerland, Germany or France.

A word of caution though, exiting in France, you may find it difficult to get a taxi. We waited for a half an hour and ended up sharing a ride with a Frenchmen that explained to us that exiting via the France exit has the least amount of taxis. Of course, the airport has no information booth and you can’t of course change your mind once you are out.

The taxi drive was about five minutes and we were standing at the Saint-Louis la Chaussée train stop, having already purchased our tickets via phone. From there we went to Mulhouse and then on to Strasbourg, again using France’s regional train service, which you can essentially purchase any ticket in the future and still be able to use it for earlier trains.

Argantorati

Just barely in France on the border with Germany is the small quaint city of Straßburg, or Strasbourg to the French, and it actually goes by other names to some of the ethnic minorities. The name has German origins and meaning as ‘the town at the crossing of roads‘. It is also the place where the river Ill dumps into the mighty Rhine river.

The original settlement here before the fifth century CE, was known as the fortified silver settlement, a compound of the Celtic arganto for silver and rati for fortification. It was later latinized into Argentium and Argentina, or city of silver, where it is known in numerous texts. What follows is a slideshow of some of the many amazing sites you will see as you walk the city.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Notre Dame

The town has a huge and wonderfully prominent cathedral called Notre Dame de Strasbourg, also known as the Straßburger Münster in German.

Its construction began in the late twelfth century and its impressive bell tower and spire were added more than 120 years after the start of construction, which I might add was never completed, since the addition of a second right tower and spire never came to fruition. The outside at night is spectacular, the interior and exterior lighting provide an excellent balance to show the real grandeur of this cathedral.

Of course, this is balanced well by the stained-glass windows illuminated by the sun in the early morning hours. The interior also houses an ecclesiastical astronomical clock which was built in the early 1570s.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Get here early, usually before ten o’clock, otherwise the tour groups from the Viking cruises start to assemble and you will have little chance, the line often snakes all the way out the courtyard and around the block!

Palace Rohan

Across the river Ill from our hotel was the Rohan Palace, which houses several museums. We toured the Museum of Decorative Arts, just to get a view of the palace from inside.

We all found the decorative arts inside the museum a bit avant-guarde for our tastes, but typically French. The interior of the palace for the most part met expectations.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Pont du Faisan

Built in 1888 this is a working example of an old hydraulic swing bridge. Below is a short video showing it in operation. First the two ends are closed for traffic, then the operator swings the bridge to allow boats through the gate. We were able to see this as a pedestrian and on the Strasbourg sightseeing tour boat. It is a very interesting piece of engineering and on a small scale, perhaps better than raising a bridge.

Ponts Couverts de Strasbourg

This Ponts Couverts is a set of thirteen century covered bridges and towers on the southwest part of the island. Initially a battlement and constructed of wood, the roofs were later removed and eventually the bridges were rebuilt in stone.

At least one of them was made into a prison and it was later told, though falsely, that executions were also carried out there, though there is no evidence of this happening.

Hotel Cour Du Corbeau

A very good hotel that is strategically located close to the old city center in Krutenau is the Hotel Cour Du Corbeau. It is situated just across the river Ill and two blocks away from the cathedral. Parking for cars is only a block away and many restaurants and cafes are within ten minutes walking distance.

Since we were arriving by train, we took the D Tram from the Central Station and got off at the Hospital stop. From there we were only a ten minute walk away.

The hotel is a smartly renovated and modernized version of an old inn that was used by workmen that worked at the tanneries and other places throughout the city. It maintains many of the old beams and architectural elements of the old building. However, it includes air-conditioning and many other modern amenities.

Although you may initially find their 27€ price for breakfast a bit steep, it is well worth it since they provide both hot and cold buffet items, as well as a wide selection of coffees.

Restaurants

Being a very busy tourist spot, Strasbourg has a plethora of restaurants, anything from traditional Alsatian food, to Chinese and other cosmopolitan cuisines. So you shouldn’t go hungry, even without a reservation.

Maison Des Tanneurs

The House of the Tanners restaurant was the furthest of all the restaurants from our hotel and took a good fifteen minute walk to reach.

Located in the far southwest corner of the island and near the Ponts Couverts it commands a nice view of the river Ill. So, if you want window side seat, reserve your seat early, we arrived at our reservation time and the sign was already posted on the menu outside – totally booked this evening.

La Piazza

We ate here on a first night and it is a decent restaurant with pretty good Italian food. We sat inside near the wood burning over, so the pizza they made for us was using the traditional method. The service was fine and our drinks met all of our expectations. However, the toilet left much to be desired, I suggest you become prepared to avoid a visit.

Au Tire Bouchon

Another excellent Alsatian restaurant choice is the Au Tire Bouchon. Though it does not have the view the House of Tanners provides, the food is on par with that establishment.

Posted on

Catania, Sicily – In The Shadow Of Etna

Continuing our journeys on the eastern coast of Sicily, we arrived at Catania. A port city and working town that believe it or not, is even grittier than Naples.

Catania

Existing in the shadow of a large, ever erupting volcano, would seem like a fool’s errand. But the people of Catania do it everyday and only give it a second thought. Luckily, the volcano has not had a major eruption in some time, and since it’s monitored continuously, most people try to ignore it.

The city has at least one good park near the city center that is easy to visit. The Villa Bellini and Park Maestranze is right off of Via Etnea and has some great views of the volcano and a very quiet place to visit.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Mount Etna

The presence of Etna is felt everywhere, from the architecture, to the items some of the shops sell, to the very grit you grind under your feet as you walk. Even though as you walk the streets and cannot see it, it will rear its ugly snow-capped head as you round a corner, or ascend some lookout in the city.

Theaters and Baths

Many of the ruins in and around Catania contain theaters and baths from the Greek and Roman periods.

The Roman Amphitheater

A stone’s throw away from our hotel the amphitheater forces all the traffic to go around it. There is not much story behind the amphitheater other than in the fourth century the town’s people had started robbing it stones for building material. Later it was almost completely covered up by a building project in the eighteenth century. It was later rediscovered and preserved as part of an urban archeological site.

The Roman Baths

Very close to the Greek and Roman Theater are the Roman Baths. They appear to be part of a city walking audio tour, but since we did not visit the information center, we have no other details on the site.

The Greek and Roman Theater

Labeled the Roman Theater, it was actually established by the Greeks and later rebuilt as a Roman Theater. There is an entrance fee for this exhibit, which again seems to be repurposed for shows. Though there is ample space to take photographs to get a good idea of how it used to look.

Churches, Cathedral and Basilicas

There are numerous churches and other religious structures of note all throughout Catania. The most noteworthy one is the Cathedral of Catania.

Church of San Nicolò l’Arena

A large unfinished artifice is the Church of San Nicolò l’Arena. It was started in the late 17th century and interrupted by the large earthquake of 1693. The dome and inside were later completed, but the facade remains unfinished sadly even to this day.

This church has a secret though, for small fee you may ascend its narrow spiral staircase to the roof for its impressive view of the city.

From this perch you can also get an amazing shot at Mount Etna.

The Benedictine Monastery

Along the left side of the church of San Nicolò l’Arena is the Monastery of the Benedictines. Unfortunately,

it is only open for guided tours and they were completely booked up when we inquired with school groups and other tour groups. We were lucky however to get a glimpse of some of the grounds which is also used as part of the university, which holds lectures on philosophy and other classical topics.

 

Basilica of Saint Agatha

This basilica has a Sicilian Baroque facade that was designed by Vaccarini in the early 18th century. It has a clock tower and a large piazza outside it to support its impressive entrance.

The interior is very large and has ten or twelve sub-chapels along its walls. There are three main altars, the two are the sides appear to be lit at all times, while the main alter, along with its wooden pulpit is probably only used to special occasions.

Our Hotel – Hotel Liberty

This hotel is situated above the main thoroughfare of Via Etnea (Etna) and just outside what would be perceived as the nice part of the city. It is most likely, the nice part of town has moved over time and now it finds itself a bit on the margins; but it is a great four-star hotel and the rooms are really great. The staff is very courteous and knowledgeable. Irons are not in the rooms but are available for those seeking to touch up their clothes after a hard travel.

We were booked into a luxury room and upgraded to the Estasi suite, it was almost as big as our entire apartment in Turin!

Restaurants

Like any large city, Catania has a variety of restaurants to choose from, including Asian and other cuisines. Since our stay was so short we stuck with the local favorites and something new as well.

La Taverna Del Grande Albergo

This is a very good restaurant with excellent typical Sicilian food. It has a limited menu, but that’s what makes it so great. What ever is on the menu is delicious. It was so good in fact, we ate here both evenings.

Forma Ristorante

A new kind of boutique restaurant, it has a select menu of typical dishes created with some style. The outside seating is under a very large tree where you can enjoy your food and the great weather. The staff is fairly energetic and responds quickly if you require any assistance or your bill. As with most establishments in Italy, you pay inside at the cashier.

Posted on

Syracuse, Sicily – Ash And Puppets

Syracuse

Syracuse, or Siracusa as you will find it readily marked throughout the island, is one of the first places of historic significance within Italy. It was inhabited in ancient times and finally settled by the Greeks in the early eight century BCE.

The original settlement of the Greeks was on the small island of Ortigia, which still contains several historical and archaeological artifacts from the Greek and Roman periods. See the Ortigia section below for more on that part of the commune and city.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Syracuse is divided into three main parts, Ortigia the island and original Greek settlement, Santa Lucia along the coast and the location of our hotel, and the Neapolis the location of the major Greek and Roman ruins .

If you are at this point wondering what ash and puppets have to do with Sicily, and in particular Syracuse, read further. Otherwise, just rest assured it has everything to do with being on this quaint and wonderful island.

Note: Purchase the Museum and Park Combination Ticket at 18€. If you purchase them separately, it will cost you an extra 8€.  The combination ticket will get you into both, with money left over for a light lunch.

Archaeological Museum

The Archaeological Museum is an impressive collection of ancient, Greek and Roman artifacts dating back to the seventh and eighth centuries.

The museum handles each time period in a sequential fashion, starting with the ancient period of the pre-historic animals and tectonic changes to the area, all the way to the arrival of the Greeks and other colonial powers.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

More than one area within the south-eastern coast of Sicily is addressed, as well as other major areas to the north and in the center. In all, the museum provides an excellent historical picture of the island of Sicily.

Archaeological Park

The Archaeological Park, also known as the Neapolis Archaelogical Park of Syracuse, is situated about two and a half kilometers from the island of Ortigia. However, a brisk walk can get you there in about twenty or so minutes.

Tickets may be purchased at the gate, now across the newly blue painted intersection.

If you follow the signs, like we did, you will be taken to group ticket sales, which will still sell you tickets, but its out of the way and you will have to walk through a path of vendors before actually finding the ticket booth.

Latomia or Grottos

When you enter the Neapolis the first thing to visit is the Grotto, or the large quarry where they used to mine stone for building. This is a huge cutout in the surrounding rock face which is about fifty or so meters in height.

It appears to have had several cave-ins in the past, which probably occurred as they were mining the stone. There is evidence of the former inhabitants leaving large columns behind in an attempt to prevent additional cave-ins from occurring. Whether they were successful or not, it is not known, there are no information signs or other historical information provided at the site.

The Greek Theater

Built into the side of the hill, the Greek Theater was originally constructed in the fifth century BCE and later re-constructed several times, including by the Romans. Currently it has been further modified by the contemporary Syracusians for use as a theater again, building a scaffold like theater on top of the pre-existing Greek Theater, in order to have out-door performances and other events.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Behind the theater is a necropolis and grotto, both of which may be visited while visiting the structure.

The Roman Theater

The Roman Theater is found on the way out of the park complex and extends to the exit for some way.

Island Of Ortigia

Ortigia, also known as Ortygia or Citta Vecchia (old city), is an island within the city of Syracuse. It is connected to the mainland and the rest of Syracuse by two bridges, the Umbertino Bridge and the Bridge of Santa Lucia.

At the entrance of the ancient city is the Temple of Apollo. This is the first site anyone will see upon entering the city. Continuing around the temple visitors will automatically ascend the Corso Giacomo Matteotti, or the main street. This is the main shopping street, containing all contemporary brands and shops and will lead one to the Fountain of Diana.

From this traffic-circle; going to the left will take one to the Puppet museum and theater, and the eastern part of the island; going right will take one to the Piazza Duomo and the tourist shopping street, which will also take you to the Syracuse Cathedral.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Puppet Museum

This is an interesting little museum covering the history of a specific heritage of puppet making on the island of Ortigia. Therefore, the puppets are specifically built around tales and folklore of the people of Sicily.

The puppets range in size from small (approx. 20cm in height), all the way to life size. There are many examples of finished products and some of contemporary origin. One display also shows the progression of making a puppet, from the carving stage through final assembly. All very instructive.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Puppet Theater

I was originally hesitant to go the Puppet Theater. But after attending a show, I am glad I had. Not only does the host explain the tale in great detail in English, before it is performed. But the actually acting and enactment of the tale was so compelling, I was captivated, even though I had no idea what was being said at many points during the performance.

The theater space is very personal, with only enough room for about 50-60 people, and they will seat others if needed in the aisle (on the steps). Therefore, if you need to take any medically necessary precautions in cramped quarters, be prepared before you arrive.

Maniace Castle

The Maniace Castle sits at the tip of Ortigia and commands an open view of the Ionian Sea. It is a rather simple structure in function and betrays itself to its many uses down through the ages by its many apparent modifications, including the installation of the lighthouse.

It is however complete with a moat, or in this case, a large drained sunken area where you can wander and only guess what it used to be like back in the day.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Cathedral Of Syracuse

In the center of Ortigia sits the Cathedral of Syracuse, a large and fairly simple structure as cathedrals go, having no real apse, but only central and left naves.

The inside however is impressive and elegant and worth a visit. The outside of the cathedral displays Doric columns of the original Temple of Athena, which stood on this site prior to the building of the edifice.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Our Hotel

Hotel Musciara Resort

For the six nights we stayed in Syracuse, we stayed at the Musciara Resort. This boutique resort is located about a 15 minute walk from Ortigia Island and has its own beach. It is a three-star hotel, but it is expertly appointed and maintained. There are only about a dozen or so rooms, so book early if interested. It is a on the pricey side, so if you are able, use points.

Though we did not use the beach at them, since there was a severe upper level low causing rain for many days, we know a set of two lounge chairs and table will cost 110€/day for those wishing to enjoy the water or work on that tan.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Restaurants

The cuisine of Syracuse is of course based mainly on the sea, so people who love fish will definitely enjoy themselves. There are myriads of fish to choose from, as well as octopus, squid, cuttlefish and assorted shell fish.

Trattoria Archimede

We ate lunch here and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. They have a nice garden where one can enjoy an relaxes lunch away from the hustle and bustle of Piazza Duomo.

The food is typical and simple for Sicilian cuisine. We picked basic items, along with the house wine and had a very nice lunch. The staff were attentive and had a very good grasp of English, so communicating in my broken Italian, although appreciated, was not totally necessary, our waiter spoke and understood Italian, English, French and German.

Ristorante Sicilia In Tavola

A gastronomic pleasure with an unpretentious interior is Ortigia’s In Tavola Ristorante.

Here, as with many other place, they have home-made pasta and spaghetti. However, we ordered fish, swordfish for me and mackerel for Patti. For dessert we had lemon pie and a cannolo, along with an coffee and an aperitif, the a Sicilian Amaro, for 77€ for two people.

Ristorante Cine

Having been eating Italian and SIcilian food for too long, we tried RIstorante Cine and really like it. Though the ingredients are different from what we are used to in Turin and the States (though not unusual), the owner was more than happy to alter any dishes to our tastes. We only ate lunch here and for two, we were able to order an appetizer, primi (vegetable rice) and secondi (chicken or pork or vegetables in white sauce), along with a half carafe of red wine, water, coffee and sambuca for under 30€! It is hard to beat that in a tourist area.

La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia

We ate lunch here on Sunday, the 21st of May, 2023, after visiting the Archaeological Park and when unbeknownst to us Mount Etna was erupting.

After we finished and began walking back to the hotel, we noticed dust getting in our eyes. At the time we had no idea why and surmised that the recent bad storm had brought in dust from Africa, which can occasionally happen. When we read the next day that the Catania Airport had closed due to ash if finally dawned on us that it had been the ash from the volcano all those miles away that was the cause.

Gelateria

If you are looking for gelati in Sicily, do not buy the brightly colored ones, usually they are made of inferior ingredients. Instead, look for the Artiginale label. Though you will pay more for a cone of cup of this, it will be far more worth your while in taste later.

Levante Gelateria

Another good Gelateria, providing excellent artisanal gelati. I was particularly fond of their Amerano and Pistachio flavors.

Fior Di Latte Gelati

Finding very good gelati anywhere in Italy is not a difficult task, here is no exception. It has great artiginale (artisanal) flavors, I ordered the Ortigia and Note Di Sicilia, and Patti ordered the Note Di Sicilia, Mandarin Orange and Dark Chocolate with a hint of orange.

Posted on

Vienna, Austria – Bewitching Belvedere

Below the cacophony of Vienna’s innere Stadt, the Resselpark, Karlskirche and the Kärtner Ring is a rather large conglomeration of museums, gardens and fountains is the Belvedere Palace.

Belvedere Palace and Gardens

Belvedere

The palace and its gardens are divided in two, known as the Oberen (Upper) and Unteren (Lower) Belvedere. Between them one can find the exceptional gardens of the palace called the Belvedere Gardens. To the right of this are also the Botanical Gardens, which we did not have time to visit.

Upper Belvedere

This museum holds the primary collection of the Belvedere, including many famous artists, Austria’s own Klimt and others like Monet, Rodin and Schiele. Words cannot describe what a slow walk and intense focus on these works feels like unless you visit these works in person. Second best is a slide show on those pieces that I found the most moving and interesting of the collection, enjoy.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Belvedere Gardens

A marvelous September day, a breeze with some chill and a beautiful garden go hand in hand, especially when you can share it with someone; in this case, my wife.

We had a great time just slowly walking through the gardens and listening to the fountains, enjoying the landscape[1]Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023. and the stillness that you do not get in other parts of this very busy city.

Lower Belvedere

This part of the museum contains more off-beat art works. Mostly contemporary artists and works, the Joseph Rebell collection, which goes back to the early 1800s, is extremely good and important. His landscapes of Naples, Vesuvius and other parts of the Mediterranean. Again, it is best to view these works in the context of a slide show.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

That concludes our visit to Vienna. We found it a fast paced interesting place to visit that eagerly welcomes tourists. Extremely cosmopolitan where it is easier to find an Italian restaurant than a traditional Viennese one, but such is the price of progress and tourism. For that, one might have to venture further, perhaps to Graz, or even Güssing in Burgenland.

References

References
↑1 Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023.