Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not doubt a miracle town amongst towns in Germany. Partially bombed during World War II, it took an American officer and the German commander of the city at the time to spare this town. The results of which, we are able to enjoy this middle-age town as it appears today, forty percent of which was nevertheless destroyed by allied bombing before it was stopped.
It is located in Bavaria and is about one and a half to two hours drive from the Frankfurt area on the A3 and A7, weather permitting of course. There are several parking areas to choose from for visitors, though we found street parking a block or so further out for free.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
If it weren’t for it’s strange history at the end of World War II, this town would be easily overlooked. Not necessarily by Germans, but definitely by international tourists always looking for some interesting sidebar or reason to visit. Luckily, even on a Saturday, we did not find it all that busy for a tourist destination. We only hope that it will stay that way.
Marktplatz
The center square hosts various shops and restaurants, as well as the Town Hall and Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower. Saint George’s fountain can also be found here toward the lower part of the square.
Towers
Rothenburg has many towers on all sides of the town, especially on the eastern side. The main entrance towers are of course grander, but the little ones are no less impressive.
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The City Wall
It is one of only three towns in Germany which is still encompassed by a fully intact town wall. The eastern part of the wall, the one which we were actually able to walk on, was mostly repaired after its destruction at the end of the war.
Several parts are boarded up or unreachable, but many people from around the world contributed funds in the effort to reconstruct it, making it possible to enjoy it today. There are several main entry points, Gallows Gate, Thomas Tower and one near Ruckesse Tower, to name a few.
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Restaurants
There are many restaurants to choose from in Rothenburg, many of which are located in or near the town square. Luckily, we failed on locating an Italian restaurant that was open, but it is August and the Italians are notorious for taking the entire month off for vacation. That forced to find the amazing place that we did below.
Reichsküchenmeister – Das Herz von Rothenburg
If you are able to obtain a seat in the garden, one of the go to places in Rothenburg for a weekend lunch or early dinner.
The garden is just amazing, a totally relaxed atmosphere where we were fortunate enough to have a very responsive waiter. The menu is varied enough where one should be able to find something to fit their culinary needs.
After spending a week in Frankfurt, we decided to spend some time in München, or Munich, Germany. The most affective way to do this from Frankfurt is by train, particularly the ICE DB service. In three hours and some odd number of minutes, you can travel between the two main train stations in comfort.
With most of the family here, we were seven and traveling by train such a short distance just made the most sense, since our daughter and son-in-law had our grandson along. This gave him some added room to walk around an annoy other people instead of just us, breaking up the monotony of the journey. Not really, but it did provide him enough space to get the wiggles out, as opposed to other modes of transport, like an airplane or automobile.
München
The largest city in Bayern, or Bavaria, Munich is a large, bustling city completely accustomed to tourists and tourism. If you are a mono-lingual English speaker, you will find no problem getting around in Munich, most of the residence and restaurant staff speak fluent English.
Marianplatz
The largest and most central of the squares or piazzas in Munich is the Marianplatz. It is most likely your U- or S-Bahn destination from the Hauptbahnhof and the energetic core of the tourism industry.
The Marianplatz is girdled with high-end shopping, caffes and tourism shops. It also has many historical monuments and fountains, as well as churches and other places of interest.
Neues Rathaus and Glockenspiel
Most people will likely concentrate on the Old City, Marianplatz where the Glockenspiel plays it’s tune everyday at eleven and twelve o’clock (sometimes at seventeen o’clock in the winter).
It plays a rather long ditty that includes the operation of the top and then the bottom carousel of automatons.
Altstadt-Lehel
This region of München lies just to the north of the old city, or Altstadt. Here is where you will find the palaces, gardens and other grand accoutrements of the city.
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English Gardens
A large garden located to the north of the main part of the city, it is a very nice place to visit on a sunny day. A large city park with many different things to see and experience, it even has a place that people go to surf, if one can believe such a thing can exist away from the coast in a city.
Eisbachwelle
Just on the south east end of the gardens you will discover the river Eisbach and the Eisbachwelle. This is a fast moving stream that has been conveniently modified through the use of carefully placed stones into a haven for surf-boarders. It’s amazing to stop for a bit just to see their skill and how they are able to throw their boards in and hop on in all but an instant, truly remarkable.
Maximiliansanlagen and the Isar
Another great place for a stroll is Maximilian’s garden. A very well kept park which stretches along the Isar and the Isarinsel or island that provides a cool contemplative place for de-stressing and an escape from the warm summer midday.
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Here you will find the Friedensengel monument and several other interesting points of interest. The two bridges that bound it, the Luitpoldbrücke and the Maximiliansbrücke provide pedestrian friendly points of entry.
Of note are the Große Kascaden, or Great Cascades, a series of weirs and fish ladders that provide a series of small waterfalls. The Wehr WKW-Praterkraftwerk, or power station, is built into the structure to provide electric power to the city. Through thoughtful design of constructing flood control they have provided electricity as well.
Restaurants
We spent time at the following restaurants. Some are must see, even though the food will not be up to expectations. We found the smaller establishments to be better, especially the service and cleanliness.
Hofbräuhaus
Well, perhaps the largest and most well-known beerhall in München, the Munich Hofbräuhaus is as large and as busy as it will get in a place to eat. They have a gift shop to match your expectations for a large one liter glass.
The band was great and our food was okay. Service is always going to be a problem at such a large establishment, that’s why I prefer the smaller places.
However, if you can overlook the local fauna, an interesting place to eat and drink. I have found a lack of service usually indicates a lack of cleanliness; if they cannot serve you, they cannot clean properly either – just a thought. In any case, one of the go-to places and a must see. Have a drink and if the fauna bother you, avoid the rest of the menu.
Der Pschorr
Another very good place for German food, perhaps the best that we had while in Munich. The service was very good as well, they kind of went out of their way to welcome families with children. You will find the place open and inviting with a good menu and food. Jett, Meagan and Jason’s baby ate for free, something not seen too often today.
Burg Pappenheim
One of Dana’s picks and an attempt to find that authentic German restaurant look and feel. It was really close, we found only one waiter that spoke English here, the others spoke German for the most part, though I was confident they could completely understand English.
Augustiner am Platzl
Overall a good place for German food. The service is better and the staff seems more attentive to customer needs. The food is also better, both tastier and presentation-wise. They can also accommodate larger families without the squeeze. There is however no band, so if you are looking for the Umpa-band look and feel, you will not find it here.
The food and service were very good and the atmosphere a mix of old and new Bavaria. This restaurant is a bit out of the way and a bit of a walk from the city center, but worth the visit.
Zum Dürnbräu
Here we had a pleasant meal outside not far from our hotel, even though the weather was a bit questionable with rain possible. The service was a bit slow, but the food was good and we had a very good time. The sauerbraten was first rate and I got to try the Apfelküchle, or fried apple rings with cinnamon and light sugar, which I found delightful.
Tavernetta Cucina con Pizza
After some time German food creates issues that only Italian food can cure. When you come to this Rubicon, you can cross by considering a place like Tavernetta, where you can enjoy some Italian food. They have a good menu, good service and the prices are not astronomical.
Not having an abundance of time, we decided to stay somewhat local a few times and visit Mainz and Frankfurt, both of which are but a stone’s throw away from Offenbach. Since we have been to both several times, we wanted to show other family members these two cities and will post mostly photographs without a lot of text.
Mainz
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Restaurants
While in Mainz, we stopped at one of our favorite restaurants, or in this case a Wine house (Weinhaus), that our friends Karl Heinz and Isolde Seegräber introduced us to in the course of one of our earlier visits.
Hof Ehrenfels Weinstube
Frankfurt
In Frankfurt all we did was a Stadtbummel around the city and just wandered around.
With a cohort of eight, we found it impossible with only one car to make a day trip on the weekend of August the 17th, so we took the Regional Train direct from Offenbach Hauptbahnhof (Hbf). In 25 mintues with the RE51 you can be in Gelnhausen, or with the RB51 slightly longer; both operate often and at regular intervals.
Gelnhausen
An unusual destination for non-Germans, Gelnhausen does not offer much but a change of scenery, a lazy stroll in the park and perhaps different opportunities to eat.
The town is separated into lower and upper market places, or Unter- and Obermarkt, both of which act as parking lots for locals and visitors alike. Since we took the train, the entry to the town was over the Kinzig river and through the Ziegelturm.
Walking the narrow streets of Gelnhausen the visitor will notice numerous timber houses with sayings on them. In many towns, this is an old practice which has been used probably for centuries, either to provide some humor or commentary on the events of the time.
On the other end of town, after the Obermarkt you can wander through the Holzgasse Tower to find the old town wall. Here you will enjoy a very nice park with an overlook of the town and surrounding area.
Not far from the entrance is a memorial to the fallen soldiers of the town from the two world wars.
The town also has a few other monuments or fountains worth visiting.
Restaurants
There are many restaurants in this small town, though few were open. However, from what we could tell, there would be many cuisines to choose from had the other restaurants been open.
Malamatina’s Greek Restaurant
Off the beaten path and not far from the Obermarkt, is Malamatina’s Greek restaurant. Though the sign says, Greek and German food, we didn’t see much in the way of German food on the menu..
The house wine was of a Greek varietal that I, personally have never tried, but found very interesting, served under their own label.
The food was traditional Greek, offering Gyros, Slavaki and salads.
A thirty minute drive from Frankfurt on the A3 is the lazy, old town of Idstein, Germany. Frequently overlooked by tourists, this small little town, nestled on the other side of the Taunus mountains, is a favorite of cyclists and other outdoor enthusiasts.
We happened to visit on a lark, having visited many of the other towns in the area. It has a cute Innenstadt and Marktplatz that has several restaurants of various cuisines, all of which seem to be reasonably priced.
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The town also has a very large tower, called the “Hexenturm”, which may be ascended, if you are inclined to seeing a panorama of the town and neighboring countryside. It was fairly hot out and the tower is pretty tall, so we declined.
Other than that, the town is apparently noted for its schools or gymnasium. But for the tourist, it is just a nice place to spend a weekend afternoon strolling the streets and after a nice lunch, stopping for ice cream at the local ice cream parlor.
Restaurants
For a small town on a weekend, the town has a surprising amount of restaurants. All of which, appear to be very busy.
Deutsches Haus
Regardless of the name, which obviously must be a vestige of the prior establishment, the Deutsches Haus is a fine place to stop for a lunch. It serves Greek cuisine and has a variety of salads and cold plates to choose from on a hot day, or heavier fare, if you are more hungry. All I can say is the Greek salad with Feta is first rate. Our bill came to about 20€/person with drinks, which we felt was reasonable.
After somewhat of a hiatus, we are back for a bit in Turin. Several things required our attention at home and therefore we have been away longer than we would have liked.
In many respects the city is just like we left it last year, in some others, not so much. There are major public works projects going on, so there are some major thoroughfares that are closed and other scaffolding eye-sores to try and ignore. Aside from that, it is rather quiet, since most Italians have left for their August vacation.
Weather
We thought the weather in North Carolina was strange, being as wet as it has been before we left. But it appears to have followed us here as well.
Though not unheard of, this is not the rainy season in Turin, thunderstorms are usually rare this time of year. This one popped up from nowhere and caused quite a scene. It also was severe enough to trash most of the vegetation, especially in our courtyard. My only hope is the sorrounding wine regions were spared.
Restaurants
For the month and a half that we will be here, we have visited or re-visited the following restaurants in our city.
Trattoria D’Agata
This restaurant has great food and decent house wine, if you like that with your lunch. The Chicken Cutlet is huge and very filling, so be careful what else you order with it. The Caponata is amazing, so that is a must order item, if you don’t you will regret it, there is nothing comparable in the States. The Arancini is also a must try!
At Home
We cook Italian and rather conservatively most evenings. A typical dish that is easy to make and tastes great, especially with tomatoes from Italy, is Pasta e Patate in olive sauce with Pecorino Romano DOP cheese sprinkled over it. Yum.
As a Christmas gift from our children, we recently had a weekend stay at the Carolina Inn in beautiful Chapel Hill, North Carlolina. Celebrating its one hundred year anniversary this year, this old colonial inn is an integral part of the town and the university.
Ideally located within walking distance to almost everything within the town, it is a good home base for those who would rather not get in and out of the car constantly. Within five or ten minutes, you can reach Franklin Street and its restaurants, cafes and shopping, and the college is just a stone’s throw away. Parking is $26/night for either self-park or valet service and the lot is attended overnight.
The UNC Campus
The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill dominates the town and gives Chapel Hill that old university town feel. As one walks through the grounds of the university, it is easy to see the different architectural and building styles that were adopted throughout the years.
The walkways are appointed with old style colonial lamps in many areas and in some areas it is possible to think of what it might have been like back in those times. The architectural wonders even extend to some of the fraternity houses and other ancillary buildings on the campus. The only other remarkable things of note are the massive and beautiful trees that line most of the streets, many of which probably have been around as long as the university itself.
Moorehead Planetarium
The Moorehead Planetarium is always a nice place to visit, especially if you have children. For a modest fee, you can enjoy both a planetarium show, as well as the museum, which also provides hands-on learning exhibits for younger visitors.
The most enjoyable part however is the planetarium itself. Although they were totally booked on the Saturday and we were unable to see a show with our small party of five, they did have opening for Super Bowl Sunday. So we were able to enjoy their wonderful presentation, “One Sky, Many Eyes”. Though totally automated now with computers and an updated projection system, I do miss the old planetarium projectors.
Ackland Art Museum
If you are ever in the area, I cannot think of a better place to spend a few hours of your afternoon than at the Ackland Museum. Frankly, for me it was a surprise and delight, the free admission making it even more so. Having nothing else to do on our somewhat rainy day and weekend, we decided to go after our quick stroll down Franklin Street (there are signs on the pavement on Franklin, so just follow them if you are not sure).
The exhibits are eclectic in way and a bit varied, but most somehow unexpectedly go together, perhaps owing to very good planning and the way the building splits into separate areas.
I found the mixed media video of the eyeball and voice over rather well done, strange and quite interesting. Shown on a sphere, it actually had that eyeball look.
The museum also has a nice collection of Indian, Southeast Asian and Indonesian Art. Some contemporary and others a bit older. All in all, we thoroughly enjoyed it and found it to be a total surprise, not expecting too much when we entered.
Restaurants
Chapel Hill offers a wide variety of restaurants. Most of the ones that populate the small area around Franklin street, cater to the university students, so you will find them somewhat budget friendly and internet centric. The more upscale restaurants, you will find further out of the main town and on the periphery.
TRU Cafe
A small cafe down Henderson Street, it has both inside and outside seating and definitely caters to the university students.
The service is very relaxed and all orders are done via their website, which at the time of this writing, was a nightmare and terrible. However, after only several attempts, we were all able to submit our orders. We were not surprised to learn later, that some of our orders did not come out and we had to re-ordered them; so, bring your patience with you. And no, they do NOT have their own phone application and no, the service people will not take your order.
Osteria Georgi
This small restaurant is situated on the corner of a small strip mall on South Elliot street and Franklin. They have both inside and outside seating and a fairly attentive staff. We sat outside, since it was tolerably warm out and it was packed inside; we didn’t want to catch anything before traveling back to Europe in the next few weeks.
The food was good, I ordered the lasagna which was very tasty and my wife order the Pasta Vongole. The Gattinara was excellent and I would commend it to anyone willing to try something a bit different.
Carolina Coffee Shop
The Carolina Coffee Shop says it is the oldest restaurant in town and is split in two, one side does only coffee and take-out, while the other offers a restaurant experience with full staff. Wanting the sit down experience, we tried the restaurant.
The sandwiches are very good and the service was timely. It can get busy during peak lunch hour, so if you are willing to wait a bit and eat later, the atmosphere is more relaxed and subdued.
IL Palio Restaurant
One of our old-time favorites is the Il Palio in Chapel Hill. Located in the Siena Hotel, this restaurant usually features exceptional service and even a piano player while you order and eat. Unfortunately, we were there on Super Bowl weekend so the service was limited to the outside bar area and there was no music.
However, that did not prevent us from having a good time and enjoying the excellent food that is provided by the kitchen staff. Additionally, compared with other places, the prices no longer look as inflated as perhaps in previous years.
We would like to thank our children for the gift, we had a wonderful time. It was a great gift and being the travelers we are, we wouldn’t mind doing it again in a different town in North Carolina, if the occasion were to present itself.
We are not resort people, my wife and I would rather hike or explore a small town. But, when we realized sometime last year it looked really good to spend some of our credit card points for maximum benefit, we jumped at the chance. Especially, when the rest of the family could enjoy the time off in the middle of winter.
The flight on American from Charlotte to Nassau flight was more or less half full. But it was smooth and uneventful with the weather cooperating the entire way.
Baha Mar Resort – Nassau, Bahamas
The Baha Mar resort is beautiful and very relaxing, especially in January when most everyone in the US and elsewhere are in school. So we found traveling to this destination during this time of year more or less stress-free.
The Do’s and the Don’ts
From what we heard, though have not experienced, therefore only anecdotally, you should not charge anything to your room at a resort, unless you are very careful to keep receipts and track of your expenditures. It has been suggested to us, though not confirmed, that you will check out later and experience charge creep, that is, charges and re-charges for unnecessary things you were not aware of on your restaurant or bar bills. Pay with credit card when you can, or with cash if you must, putting it on your room only when you must. Moreover, be aware, the resort will put a $1200 hold on the credit card you use to guarantee room charges, bar, casino, etc., which perhaps can put a pinch on your credit card maximum when using it later.
Do enjoy the pools and other amenities the resort offers. There is a water park and over a half-dozen pools, as well as beach access to enjoy.
Prices and Tipping
Everything at the resorts is expensive! Be prepared, especially if you haven’t paid for your hotel stay, like us. If you have, you probably have already noticed it was NOT CHEAP. It is not a Bahamas thing, it is a resort thing and they charge hefty prices for everything from food, to drinks to sundries. For example, 2 dl glass of Chardonnay at the pool will cost your $26, which includes their very high VAT tax and gratuity. Having mentioned that, a gratuity, which is 15% and attached to everything, is always included, so DO NOT LEAVE ONE, unless you are rather taken by the service you are offered. It is more like Europe in that regard.
Restaurants
There are many restaurants within the resort, offering a variety of foods and cuisines, and some are of course better than others. All food on the menus is priced rather high, from a normal American restaurant point of view. Typically expect to pay around $80-$100 per person with drinks. You will be full at the end, but your wallet will definitely be lighter.
Fi’lia
This is the Italian restaurant which offers standard Italian fare with a bit of an island twist. I had the Bolognese and found it to be okay.
The bottle of Italian wine that we ordered for the table was a twist top from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (DOC) at $85 and was typical for the region. You can definitely purchase something similar in the States at $18-20 for that quality.
Costa
Perhaps our best experience by far and kind of a surprise for me. Though the prices were of course still high, the food was very good.
Sit outside if you can, because the open air cabanas with small seating groups is definitely the way to go surrounded by Koi fish traveling the waterways just outside.
Cleo Mediterráneo
Here you can find a wide assortment of dishes from all over the Mediterranean. A very good place if you want to try something different and explore your palate.
The Pizza Lab
Along with the food trucks that are stationed within the pool area and the beach, probably one of the go-to places for lunch. Not only is there pizza very good, they offer a good selection of salads and pasta dishes. The entire menu is available for take-out as well, so you can enjoy your meal poolside, if you are so inclined.
Katsuya Restaurand
A very good Chinese fusion restaurant is Katsuya. Here you will find your typical Sushi and Sashimi offerings, as well as some incredible chef twists on traditional American Chinese dishes. We thoroughly enjoyed everything we ordered here and found it one of the better restaurants to visit at Baha-Mar.
Marcus Restaurant
It is best to describe Marcus as an American restaurant serving contemporary cuisine. They offer a wide variety of dishes to choose from, so everyone in your party should be able to find something to enjoy. It is however, one of the more expensive restaurants to visit.
Conclusion
I found the resort acceptable for a free trip, but given the choice I would not make it one of my preferred destinations. The property caters to the casino and weekend Floridian crowds, therefore it might be better to visit it during the week than on weekends. Again, escaping the January freeze for a week at no cost was great, but with food so expensive, once was enough for me.
It is interesting how reading something can sometimes spur memories about the most mundane things. Recently, while reading an article in the BB News, just such a memory came back to me about my grandmother’s apron.
When I was a child, we often visited my grandparents on the weekends, both to see them and frequently my other cousins. She would always be baking or cooking something and we never went hungry while in her culinary sphere. Though she always wore an apron, it was often, if not always overlooked. For us, it was just part of her attire – Grandma’s Apron.
I imagine, the main purpose of Grandma’s apron was to protect the dress underneath, which makes sense, since she was always in the midst of some task around the house. I guess she wore aprons because they were easier to wash than dresses and aprons could be taken off easily and tossed in the laundry, a replacement always at hand. In addition, it served as a pot holder for removing hot cakes and pies from the oven. It was always splashed, dotted and dashed with smears of a myriad of different things that were either cut, diced, blended, tasted or cleaned.
It was a wonderful garment for drying and collecting children’s tears and even occasionally used to clean dirty little faces or ears. When company came, her apron was an ideal hiding place for shy children, or pulled by cousins looking for something to eat or drink. And when it was cold, it kept Grandma especially warm and was her constant companion when she forayed outside. And when it was warm, her big apron wiped a lot of sweaty little foreheads.
Her apron was used to collect and bring all kinds of vegetables from the garden. She would also use it to gather onions, potatoes or apples from her larder in the basement to the kitchen, in preparation for another family meal. When unexpected company drove up, it was surprising how much furniture her apron could dust off in a matter of seconds.
In the morning, Grandma would use it to put her hot baked apple pies on the window sill to cool. When dinner was ready, she walked out onto the porch in it, while gently wiping her hands, and everyone knew it was time to eat.
It will be a long time before anyone invents anything to replace the “old apron” that served so many purposes. Most would also go insane, if they ever found out how many germs were on that apron. But, I never remember catching anything off her apron—except love.
Here are some final thoughts on Budapest, that would not fit in the previous articles.
Budapest Sightseeing
Normally were are not ones for taking sightseeing ventures of most any kind, unless it is very personal and involves a tour guide with a smaller group. However, sometimes you feel you have to try something new, oh well.
Legenda River Cruise
We took this river cruise on other recommendations but were a bit disappointed. Here’s why we would not recommend them:
We felt that though the cruise did show you the city at night, the tour was essentially something you could watch at home on TV, in fact, you actually do watch it on TV on the boat as it cruises, while listening in your headset.
The video and tour were often out of sync, so you could not actually see what they were talking about, boring and unprofessional.
The front is rather closed in and uncomfortable. In the summer the boat has to be adapted to warmer weather, like the rear of the boat.
The waitress tries to remember your free-drink offer and terribly forgets. Multiple times. I wouldn’t mind so much, but some of us didn’t even receive our drinks. So don’t buy the “free drinks” bullshit line!
Aside from the above, here are some photographs.
The Metro
Budapest has a pretty good metro. Though not terribly extensive, it does not go to the airport, it does however cover a pretty good portion of the city. Each entry point is marked with a stylized ‘M’ and you will have to pay attention to the direction of travel, the end-point or terminal station. Direction of travel on most signs is noted, as well as all of the stops made by the line.
The M1 Metro Line
Clearly the oldest and the noisiest for sure. Luckily this line runs up the old Andrássy ut avenue and fairly close to where our hotel was situated; so we were able to take this line a number of times.
The Remainder of Budapest
Here are some left over photographs from our visit to Budapest.
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Restaurants
Here are numerous restaurants, most of which we really liked.
Spinoza Cafe
The Spinoza Cafe was a lark, since we were just walking away from the Jewish quarter back to the hotel. It has a viable menu with very good service.
It was a bit warm outside, but we ordered something light and made the best of it.
Bestia Restaurant
A fairly good restaurant downtown that has plenty of outside seating. We did make reservations for this one, but not sure they were actually needed. However, making them ahead of time will never hurt.
Mazel Tov Restaurant
I have to say I was very surprised and delighted with Mazel Tov. Not only do they have a very good venue, restaurant saying, they also have very good food.
I ordered the soup and pastrami sandwich and was pleasantly surprised by the taste and texture, they really know how to slice pastrami, nano-thin.
Mystery Hotel Restaurant
The Mystery Hotel has a very good view of Budapest, for those wishing such a thing. We availed ourselves of an evening of drinks here, after a long day of sightseeing and museum visiting. Unfortunately while we were there, they had a music mixer that was definitely one-dimensional, playing the same bum-bum-bum crap that belongs more in a club venue, than a restaurant.