We have been back in Turin for about a week and had to start knocking restaurants off of our list, at least those that we always wanted to visit. After our recent trip to Greece, we decided we had had enough of eating in and it was time to start eating out again. The following are a few special ones we feel we should mention.
Disclaimer:Â If you are coming from the US, please keep in mind portion sizes in Italy and perhaps most of Europe for that matter, are not like in the States. In Italy there is always Antipasti, a Primi and then a Secondi for those who need more.
La Piola di Alfredo
When in Piedmont and especially Turin, if you see the word Piola in the name of a restaurant, you are more than likely going to experience some really good local food. You may think of the word Piola synonymous with Trattoria.
La Piola di Alfredo – Turin
The restaurant itself is quietly unassuming and nondescript. The owners and help speak no English, so it is best if you learn at least a little Italian (or your favorite translation application, good luck), or at the very minimum point to what you want.
Pollo Carpione with Vinegar Onions and Tomato Salad
Agnolotti alla Ragu
My wife an I were just interested in something to drink and a simple lunch. Though the bottled Nebbiolo wine by the glass ran about €5/glass and was very good, the cheaper alternative was the Vino Sfuso, or house bulk wine, which can be purchased for €2/glass or €10/Liter and is probably very good (I will make a point of it to try it next time).
Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant
We have written about Nuovo Zhen Bao before and it has become one of our go-to places for Chinese food. We have tried other Chinese restaurants throughout Turin, but none have come close to the delicious salads (especially the dressing on the Insalata Cinese), spring rolls and main courses as does this restaurant. The service is usually first rate and they normally have plenty of help on hand.
They have both outside and inside dining, as well as an excellent lunch (Pranzo) menu for only €10, which includes a bottle of water, appetizer, first and second courses.
Vietnamese Rolls
Chinese Salad
Vegetables Rice
Pork with Onions
Chicken with Potatoes
My Missing Tiramisu
Stimonio
A bistro that serves naturally and bio friendly items from its menu. They have several items, such as sweet and vegan pancakes, as well as other bio- and earth-friendly choices.
Stimonio Bistro
We chose the tuna salad, so they are not exclusively vegan. I had preferred a more complete Piemontese menu, but they do offer a plethora of smoothies and other health friendly items from which to chose. They do not have a house wine or bulk wine (vino sfuso), so wine by the glass can be a bit expensive for Italy at €5/glass (I normally wouldn’t mind, but for that price it isn’t that good).
Ristorante L’Agrofoglio
Much to our dismay, we must announce the closure of the L’Agrofoglio Ristorante and Piola. We had reported on their very good menu and excellent wine cellar, only to be saddened by their closure when we arrived back in Turin early this year. A major loss, I will never forget the unbelievable Barolo that we enjoyed there during our Sunday lunch in July of 2021. A wine, I subsequently tried to order a few months later, only to be told it was no longer available. I lamented of course. (We tried the 2013, which sadly, wasn’t quite the same).
Well we took the ferry from Naxos to Santorini and as luck would have it, it was very smooth. We were kind of worried about it, because the prior days leading up to our excursion, it was very windy and the water was extremely rough. My wife had already related to me, that in rough seas, they sometimes cancel the ferries between islands; we didn’t need any of that. It was bad enough that she had contracted bronchitis and was just getting her voice back. In fact, my son-in-law also had a cold, making their holiday just a bit more annoying than usual.
We were off the ferry in no time and looking for our driver, which with all of the vehicles and people, was actually easier than I had thought it was going to be. After sitting in the car for about fifteen minutes, waiting for the long procession of cars, buses, trucks and other vehicles to make it up the cliff, the road before us had more switchbacks than teeth on a saw. But it was slow going, so motion sickness never became an issue.
Naxos to Santorini – Ferry on the Aegean Sea
Naxos to Santorini – Ferry
Naxos to Santorini – Gabi, Patti, Dana, Tristan and Ericka
Naxos to Santorini – Oia from Ferry
Once we reached the top and made it through the stop sign, we were in our Heliotopos Hotel in Imerovigli in no time. On Santorini we actually split our vacation between two different hotels, one in Imerovigli and one in Oia. And aside from the driver from the shuttle service driving past our hotel in Oia, for which we had a fairly long walk in the heat, no other problems befell us while on Santorini.
Naxos to Santorini – Imerovigli and Thira from Ferry
Another island in the Cyclades island chain, Santorini is a large caldera formed from an ancient volcano that blew its top some time around 1450 BCE. When it did, it had a major impact on the Minoan population that had settled on the chain of islands.
The Greek Evil Eye
One might say the island of Santorini now looks like a great Greek Evil Eye from the sky. A small ring of islands with a caldera of water and a center made from the remaining two active volcanoes. If of course one is superstitious like that.
Imerovigli – A Volcanic Aerie
At the highest point on the largest piece of the caldera that still remains, sits Imerovigli. It is perched on and along the cliff, as though some flock of birds had built it. Yet historically most of the initial building were for wine making and production, later repurposed for the tourist industry.
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
It is actually amazing, how after such a catastrophe, that individuals would continue to build on such notorious ground. Though one can imagine, that after a few hundred years with the volcano’s silence, they probably could not resist planting in the rich volcanic soil.
The Heliotopos Hotel
We stayed at the Heliotopos Hotel in Imerovigli, which is strategically located on the footpath to Thira, for those wishing that early morning walk, or just access to the island path that actually goes from Thira all the way to Oia.
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – Panorama
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – Caldera Wall
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – After Sunset
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – At Night
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – At Night
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – At Night
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – Oia At Night
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – At Night
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – At Night
Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – At Night
Imerovigli, Santorini – Blue Domes and Churches
Imerovigli, Santorini – A Sunset
Imerovigli, Santorini – The Moon
Imerovigli, Santorini – At Night
Imerovigli, Santorini – At Night
Skaros Rock
A short twenty minute hike from hotel was Skaros Rock. A broken piece of caldera that looks more like a mesa than anything belonging to a volcano.
Thira, Santorini – Skaros Rock
Though thoroughly signed as dangerous, there is nothing preventing anyone from hiking the path around the rocky projection. Read all the signs carefully and make your own decision.
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – The Rock
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – 93 Steps down, walk, 75 more steps down, walk, 55 steps up
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Oia
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Cruise Ships
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – The Rock
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Old Fortress
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Danger
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – More Fallen Rock
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Cruise Ships
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Thira
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Panorama
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Fallen Rock Danger
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike
Imerovigli, Santorini – Caldera
I would caution, the north side is a bit challenging for anyone with balance or other issues, one misstep and one could fall pretty far, perhaps leading to death or serious injury.
Oia – Caldera Cutie
A Greek jewel clad in white wash and white marble is essentially what Oia is to those who visit its tourist filled streets and alleys. Make no mistake, if you visit Oia, there will be crowds; all trying to get that perfect social media photograph. This is especially the case in the evening, when they are all out trying to get their sunset pictures.
Oia, Santorini – The Three Blue Domes
There is not a lot of real estate in Oia, so some will find it very confining. But it is worth a visit, though I would not spend more than a few days here. Boredom being defined here as a slow Oia drip. If I had to do it over again I would probably just visit it for the day and perhaps have one evening dinner there, the rest is just too touristy for me.
Oia, Santorini – The Oia Steps and Harbor
Oia, Santorini – Ericka and Gabi
Oia, Santorini – Looking Toward Old Windmill
Oia, Santorini – View of Thirasia
Oia, Santorini – View From Castle
Oia, Santorini – Small Harbor by Oia Steps
Oia, Santorini – Alley
Oia, Santorini – Old Windmill
Oia, Santorini – Looking Toward Old Windmill
Oia, Santorini – Nik. Nomikou Marble Pedestrian Way
Oia, Santorini – Parekklesio Church from Castle
Oia, Santorini – Old Windmill
Oia, Santorini – Panorama
Oia, Santorini – Panorama
Oia, Santorini – Town Emblem
Oia, Santorini – Old Windmill
Oia, Santorini – From Castle
Oia, Santorini – Church of Panagia Akathistos Hymn
Oia, Santorini – Old Church and Bronze Bells
Oia, Santorini – The Three Blue Domes
Oia, Santorini – Typical Building Color Scheme
The Atrina Cavana 1894 Hotel
We stayed at the Atrina Cavana 1894 in the Atrina Villa for our anniversary. It was very spacious and has all the amenities one should need, it even has a kitchenette for those who wish to cook in on occasion.
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava 1894 – Entrance
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Patti
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa
Since real estate is at a premium, not all hotels in Oia have pools, our hotel was probably an exception. Not only did we have access to a pool, but we also had a hot tub with our villa that all of us took advantage. The pool was actually a bit cold and the surface was very slippery. We had fun anyway.
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Anniversary Message and Champagne
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Bedroom
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Kitchen and Extra Bathroom
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Fireplace, Living Room and Bedroom
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Kitchen Entrance
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Connecting Hallway
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Private Entrance
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava 1894
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava 1894 Pool
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Patti, Ericka, Tristan and Dana
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava 1894 Pool
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Patti, Ericka, Tristan and Dana
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Gabi
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Patti and Ericka
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Stairs to Dock
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Cliffside
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – At Night
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – At Night
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – At Night
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – At Night
Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava 1894 Entrance
Restaurants
There are many good restaurants in Santorini, probably only during tourist season, since many do not open until late May or early June. Many cruise ships also visit the island starting in June and ferry passengers near Thira, so it is best to make reservations, at least if you are staying on the island and know your itinerary.
Imerovigli, Santorini – Sunset from Avocado Restaurant
Finding a place in Thira, Imerovigli or Oia, at least one that has both a sunset view and exceptional food, may be challenging, but not impossible. We actually were able to do both, here are a few that we visited for either lunch or dinner.
Avocado
Situated in Imerovigli and not necessarily one of the best places to view a sunset, the Avocado restaurant has good food and a pretty good wine list. We chose it, because it was very close to our hotel and we were all a bit tired.
Avocado Restaurant – Group Photograph
The service was as expected and since we sat outside, we were able to enjoy the sunset and had a very nice evening eating and talking.
Avocado Restaurant – Salmon Salad
Avocado Restaurant – Ribeye with Potatoes
Avocado Restaurant – Snapper with Spinach
Avocado Restaurant – Lamb Shank on Potatoes
Avocado Restaurant – Soup
Kastro Restaurant
The Kastro restaurant in Oia is known for its amazing sunset venue. Book at table during the summer for around 7:30 and you will have it long enough to the enjoy a beautiful sunset in Oia. The view of the caldera is just fantastic and the food is not bad either. Personally, I didn’t take any sunset photographs here, since I think the sunsets from Imerovigli are better.
Needing a break from all of the Greek food we found an Italian restaurant called DaVinci’s in Thira. They make traditional Italian food and pizza, as well as the expected Greek gyro or souvlaki. We stopped here for lunch and had a very good meal, at very reasonable prices.
Imerovigli, Santorini – Da Vinci Restaurant
Alexios
A quick change in our plans during our last evening on Santorini led us to Alexios in Oia. Closer to our hotel, it too has a very good outside patio on which to view the sunset. The food was traditional Greek and okay, but at this point I had already seen enough Greek food, which honestly is a bit too meat-centric for my taste.
Alexios Restaurant – Patti and Ericka
Alexios Restaurant – Patti, Ericka and Tristan
Alexios Restaurant – Sailing Ships
Alexios Restaurant – Main Pedestrian Way
Pitogyros Traditional Grill House
I will be honest, I am not sure what a traditional grill house is in Greece or on Santorini. But, if the number of people trying to get into this place at any given time is any indication, they seem to have named the place right at least. At Pitogyros in Oia, the food is mostly traditional meat gyros and souvlaki served in a pita or a platter, as well as other dishes. Most dishes are served with french fries, with the exception of their salads. A very inexpensive place to eat, if you can get a place to sit. We waited for thirty minutes before our party of six were seated, which honestly probably was not that bad, considering it was around two o’clock in the afternoon.
Pitogyros Traditional Grill House – Front
Pitogyros Traditional Grill House – Our Table
Pitogyros Traditional Grill House – Pita Gyros with Fries
Wines
We drank the following wines while on Santorini, along with a few others. But, we feel the following deserve mention.
We finally left Santorini and dropped our sons off at the airport for their flight back to the United States. Of course, the weather had been beautiful for two weeks and we were not complaining. But as Greece would have it, it threw one last punch at us before they left. While we were sitting having lunch in Athens with Ericka and Gabi, thunderstorms had moved in and it poured, subsequently delaying their flight from the airport. Though the delay was over an hour, it luckily did not impact their connecting flight and they made it home perhaps just a little later than expected. After all of the other travel horror stories we have been hearing about, we considered ourselves lucky, even after everything that had happened.
Post Script
If you have any heard horror stories about traveling as of late, they are not fiction, they are probably TRUE. Traveling, due to latent affects of combating Covid, the war in Ukraine and other things, has turned traveling into a true hell.
If you have the ability to wait, I would do so, at least until certain things like airline staffing have been reconciled.
If you cannot wait and have connections, I would suggest booking any initial flights to your destination for a day early. This may cause extra expense and staying overnight in a hotel, but it might save you the headache of missing an important connection, especially on long haul flights that have multiple connections or even a international cruise.
Do NOT trust anything your airline or train service will tell you, it only takes one thunderstorm or some last minute strike to start a massive backlog these days. Good luck!
Well, we had just barely left Athens on our way to Naxos Island, when I discovered the feeling that my phone was not in my back pocket. That usually was not so alarming, since when traveling I often take it out and put it in my backpack, so I wouldn’t forget it in what ever form of transportation we were using. I got no further then reaching for my backpack’s zipper, when a dreadful calm came over me. I knew exactly where it was – and it was not with me.
I looked at my wife, with a short pause and a sigh, then told her that I had left my phone back at the hotel. She retorted immediately if I were sure, I responded that I was and that it was actually worse than I had originally thought. Not only had I forgotten my phone, but I had forgotten to take all our money and valuables out of the hotel room’s safe. Exasperated, I immediately informed our private shuttle driver what had happened and that we had to turn around. He assured us not to worry and that all we be alright.
We quickly called the hotel reception what had happened and they responded that they had been trying to get in touch with us. We then let the driver, who speaks very good English and of course Greek, to help explain the situation. We figured out all of the logistics, so that while he continued to take us to the airport, one of the driver’s colleagues drove to the hotel and picked up all of our stuff (after giving him the security code to the safe). With the hotel staff overseeing everything, they sealed our stuff in a bag and the driver was off to the airport. In less than an hour, we were back in possession of my phone and the rest of our travel documents and money. Wow, that was the first time that has ever happened.
In the meantime, while we were waiting and much to our delight, our flight had been delayed by an hour and twenty minutes. So, we felt comfortable that we had plenty of time to wait for the driver, then check in and check all our baggage for Naxos. As soon as the driver returned and we had all of our stuff, we obtained our tickets and started to check in our luggage at the self-service counter, waiting on line like everyone else. However, just as we were next in line, I noticed that the flight was no longer delayed, it was on time; how can that happen?!
Panorama of Naxos Hills
This left us about thirty minutes to finish baggage self-check in and board the aircraft. Undaunted we pushed on. Two of us were successful self checking our baggage, but as soon as the boarding time for the aircraft arrived, the software locked the rest of us out. What a nightmare. The attendant for Aegean Airlines quickly realized the issue and got us over to another counter so our bags got checked in immediately, with all the proper RUSH stickers applied to them, and we were on our way through security.
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel – Lobby
Naxos Island Hotel
Naxos Island Hotel
Naxos Island Hotel – View From Rooftop Terrace Restaurant
Needless to say, we made our flight and were soon enjoying the hospitality of our hosts at the Naxos Island Hotel. Since our flight was on time, we arrived before the appropriate check in time, but no worries, our rooms were ready and we were hustled to our rooms, bags and all by our hosts. After a quick refresh, we went to lunch. It was time to really be on vacation, but we were all still wondering, what else could go wrong? Unfortunately, things would uncharacteristically continue to happen to us.
Naxos – The Island
The largest of the Cyclodaes, Naxos is a large oblong island with a central mountainous region with peaks high enough to create their own weather. The island is known for its beaches, most of which are sandy, but the type of sand created from eroded rock and not from reefs, it is therefore fairly coarse to walk on and can become very hot in the sun, so bring your sandals.
Paros Island – From The Beach
The Beach – A View From The Water
The Blue Aegean Sea
Naxos City – From Airport Road
Cycling Naxos
For the adventurous, or those just wishing to get out and explore, Naxos offers some fairly good cycling. There are a few places where you can rent bicycles. However, if you are looking for something more advanced, you should reserve your equipment before you leave.
Cycling Naxos – Gabi, Tristan and Erick – Day 1
We rented our road bikes from Naxos Bikes and were not disappointed. Though a bit dated, all of the bikes performed as stated. The owners were eager to supply enough tubes, pumps and other equipment (helmets) as needed. The only thing we had to bring were our own clothes, shoes and Garmins. They delivered and picked up right at our hotel for a modest fee, so we didn’t have to worry about getting into town prior to our ride.
We really enjoyed touring Naxos, though I would suggest planning your route before you leave your hotel, as not all roads are suitable for road bikes (if you make a wrong turn, you will see what I mean).
Naxos – The City
The modern part of Naxos is pretty little port city built into a small hill that of course has a church and castle built on top of it. The hill has very interesting narrow winding streets that one can peruse and occasionally shop at the stores that dot the way.
Naxos, Naxos – The City
The Venetian Castle of Naxos is not much to look at, and from what we could tell, not open to the public, since all the entrances appear locked, signed and boarded up.
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle – Old Market Entrance
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle
Naxos, Naxos – The Castle – Walking Through Part Of The Castle
The Catholic Cathedral at the top is open to the public, but when we arrived it was during lunch and we were not going to stay until later in the afternoon for them to reopen. It was just a passing thought, since our real intent was to find a place to each lunch ourselves.
The Temple of Apollo
The interesting form that we first came in contact with at our hotel has an actual presence on the island. The Temple of Apollo are the remains of a structure to the god Apollo built by Lygdamis the tyrant in the sixth century BCE on a peninsula just off the harbor of Naxos City. In fact he never actually completed it. Before he could do so, he was conquered by the Spartan army in 524 BCE and never saw power again.
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Due to its age and no doubt having been plundered over the millennia, all that stands after repeated excavations and reconstructions, is the gate itself. It stands with its lintel and two sides upright on a small outcropping of rock just to the north of the city against the stark blue Aegean sky.
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – And Its Jetty From The Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – The Harbor
Naxos, Naxos – From Walkway
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo
Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo – Statue outside
Our Day Tour
Naxos being such a large island, requires you to at least spend a day exploring areas other than its beaches. We used Naxos Luxury Transport as our Tour Guides to explore a few sites we wanted to see, as well as some others that were suggested by our guide. The entire tour was six hours, most of which was in a van, but included many stops, including Sangry or Sangri (also known as the Temple of Demeter), Manolis Pottery, Chalkio and the Citron distillery, the Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue, the town of Apeiranthos and the Eggares Olive Oil Museum.
It was right around this time that my wife Patti became very sick with bronchitis. To the point at which, she had lost almost her entire voice before we reached the Olive Oil museum in Eggares. What ever dark cloud or spell we were under, it appeared to have followed us into the Naxos hills. I started to wonder, what else could befall us?
The Temple Of Sangri
Perhaps a forty-five minute drive from Naxos is the Temple of Sangri. It is also called the Temple of Demeter or the Temple of Kore, there are also signs that the cult of Apollo may have used the site.
Our Day Tour – Sangri Temple
It is an archaic temple that was built on Naxos in the six century BCE. For a Greek temple it is square, rather than the usual rectangular shape. Models that reconstruct its initial design call for a smart, efficient building using internal columns of varying lengths, so that a full marble, translucent roof and ceiling could be accommodated. This provided soft, even internal lighting during the daytime, so that little if any additional lighting was needed.
Our Day Tour – Sangri – Tickets For Two
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Hillside
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
Our Day Tour – Sangri – The Museum
The Pottery Of Limpertas Manolis
As any typical tour would inject, we visited the local pottery establishment of Limpertas Manolis. His apparent claim to fame was in creating eccentric, yet useful oil decanters and other novel vessels to store things. He also makes the odd spoon holder, vase, cups and saucers.
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Clearly an artist, since his small place was strewn with all kinds of broken and forgotten pieces. Let alone his clear penchant for throwing the odd clay ball at the wall, for which was clearly evident by the definitive and unnatural accumulation growing from the vertical surface from where he sat.
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery
Distillery Vallindras
In Chalkio, or Chalki, as some prefer; you can find the distillery M. G. Vallindras. This is an old firm which makes an aperitif widely known throughout Greece, known as Kitron, it comes in three varieties (and colors), depending on the sugar and alcohol content.
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
It is a very interesting distillery to visit and learn how this special Greek aperitif is made using Star Anise and other plants. Well worth a stop, if only to pick up a few bottles of their timeless spirits. Most will find the green and yellow varieties more to their liking, they are not as harsh or dry as the clear variety. The taste is more austere than a Molinari Extra or a Ramazzotti, but pleasant after a dinner nonetheless.
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Alembic
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Old Bottles
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery
Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Two of Three Variaties
The Flerio Melanes Kouros
Probable one of the more obscure places to visit archeologically on Naxos is the unfinished Kouros. Located not far from the intersection of the Naxou-Monis and Naxou-Chalkiou roads, you should find a small place to park, it’s rather rural so it should be no problem.
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
If you are in the right place, there will be some signs indicating the way.
Naxos – The Walkway to Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Walkway to Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Once found, the Flerio Melanes Kouros is a small walk away up a paved walkway. It appears to reside in a small stone fenced yard, but cannot leave since one of its legs are broken.
Naxos – The Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
Naxos – The Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue
If you have the time there are a few other things to see in the area. The Faragi Kouros is not far from here and is close to other stones that apparently were chosen for other works, but never started.
Apeiranthos
A small town in the hills of Naxos, obtainable only by car, is worth a trip, if only to see its marbled streets and pedestrian ways. If you are on a tour, its a good place to stop for lunch and wander the streets until you are ready to eat. There are many interesting shops to explore and some novel architecture to experience. An hour or two would suffice in order to do both.
Naxos – Another Old Grainery Windmill
Apeiranthos, Naxos
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Marble, marble everywhere
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Main Pedestrian Way
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Old Stone Arch
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The marble walkways
Apeiranthos, Naxos – Looking Out At The Hills
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The middle of town
Eggares Olive Oil Museum
A small private museum showing the discipline of olive oil making can be found not more that a half hour drive from Naxos harbor. The Eggares Olive Oil Museum has a small collection of old oil presses, as well as other tools and the complete history of their firm.
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum
The museum continues to sell olive oil and olives that it produces in the gift shop. Unfortunately we did not purchase any, since most of the products are not bottled and perhaps not suitable for a return flight. So, instead of taking a chance, we opted out of bringing a sample home.
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Old Mill Stone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Winch Used To Turn The Millstone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Olive Millstone
Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Olive Millstone
Restaurants
The beach where our hotel was situated was well endowed with restaurants. What follows is only a sample of what is available, but all have very good menus and delicious food.
Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant
Though we had reservations at another restaurant, we had all decided that we were hungry and had to eat a little early.
So, we headed back down to the harbor from our sojourn up the hill of Naxos and its castle. There we found the Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant, which as can be imagined, serves numerous authentic Greek dishes.
Naxos, Naxos – Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant – Patti, Ericka, Gabi and Dana
Soon after we arrived, we ate lunch at the Taverna O Giannoulis and enjoyed a very nice meal with water, wine and all the supplements. They have a great Greek menu, the service is very quick and the seating outside is perfect (though we went in June, so heat was never an issue).
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Taverna O’ Giannoulis – Kitchen
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Taverna O’ Giannoulis
Amorginos Tavern
While on our Naxos day tour, we stopped in the town of Apeiranthos, the one where all the streets and pedestrian ways are made of marble. One of two places recommended by our guide, we chose it for its menu and selection of foods.
Apeiranthos, Naxos – The Amorginos Tavern
There is plenty of outside seating, though we sat just indoors, in order to avoid the midday sun. The service was pretty good, though the food was served randomly, apparently whenever it was ready. Which is good if you ordered something hot, but if you expect your food to come out all at once for your group, you may want to go elsewhere. The food was excellent, as was the local wine and the prices were very reasonable.
The Relax Cafe
No ride is complete without a coffee stop, and perhaps a bite to eat. After our second morning ride, we decided that we would stop in town, Naxos, and visit the Relax Cafe on the water; not only to enjoy the view, the wind and surf, but also some good coffee and what turned out to be amazing vegetable and cheese omelets (the secret it appears, is not just throwing the freshly cut veggies into the scrambled eggs, but to barbecue or fry them a bit first, infusing them with the burnt taste, yu-ummm).
Highly recommended place for breakfast, unless of course you are timid about calories, as avid cyclist, we aren’t. Enjoy!
Del Mar Cafe
Situated almost in the middle of our strand is the Del Mar Cafe. An Italian restaurant that caters to all needs, especially those nagging Italian taste buds that some of us have. Angela and Marco moved from Italy eight years ago and are excellent hosts, they will ensure your meal is prepared to your expectations. We went here several times for lunch and dinner and used their beach services as well; their wines are also very good, we were never disappointed.
Naxos – A Sunset
Wines
The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Naxos. Most are inexpensive wines, all are from Greece or the neighboring islands and are completely drinkable and satisfying.
This blog article is split into three separate acts. Not necessarily in homage to the Greek tradition of plays, but more that our trip turned out to be more of a Greek tragedy. A milder version of one of course, but one nonetheless.
We do not know if it’s the land of bad karma, bad juju or what, but for the first time in our long lineage of trips, almost everything that could go wrong did. That is not to say, there is something wrong with Greece as a whole, it could just be us (and probably is), or we just may happened to have had a bad sequence of events occur. However, always being guided by the premise that bad luck runs in threes, we are now beginning to think that is just an arbitrary number, it appears it can also be all sixes and sevens.
To add some preamble here, there were six of us traveling from three different parts of the globe. My wife and I from Italy, Ericka and Gabriel (Gabi) from Germany and our two sons, Dana and Tristan, from the United States.
Flight from Milan Malpensa to Athens
The first sign there would be any trouble was a line of storms that developed the day of travel and stalled along the east coast. Since they were flying into JFK, both of my sons had their flights canceled. They were able to get booked again for the next day, after having wasted their entire Friday sitting in an airport or on an airplane. Luckily, the new logistics worked and they made it to Athens a day late and one vacation day less, but with all of their luggage.
Once altogether, we learned that our son Dana and our son-in-law Gabi had both gotten colds, so right away we were thinking of the possibility of Covid. Luckily, that was not the case either, they were just feeling the effects of common colds brought on by loosening restrictions.
Athens – Group Photograph
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
Flowers – Athens
In any event, we pressed on with our vacation. The next day, upon trying to enter a museum, we quickly discovered that I had purchased a five day pass for everyone, which of course did not start until our last full day in Athens. Not sure how I did that, but I just chalked it up to old age and moved on. Luckily, nothing else happened to us the next few day in Athens.
Athens – The City
The modern part of Athens is typical city for a city of central Europe, containing a core with upscale shopping surrounded by environs of more modest means and services. In some places it looks like it is in desperate need of planning and repairs. But for the most part things appear to work quite well by Greek standards.
Athens – Memorial for the Unknown Soldier
Athens – Shopping
Athens – Side streets
Athens – Shopping
Restaurants – Plaza Dimopratiriou
The Acropolis from below
Athens at night
The Acropolis at night
Athens – Hadrian’s Arch – Ericka, Dana and Tristan
The Great Library of Hadrian
No visit to Athens complete without seeing the changing of the guard at the National Memorial of the Unknown Soldier.
Lycabettus Hill
Located northeast of the city center is the hill of Lycabettus, atop which sits the Church of Saint George. About a thirty minute walk from the Monument of the Unknown Soldier you can reach the cable car at Lykavittós and for a modest sum, a ride to the top.
Athens Panorama
The views are pretty good from this vantage point, so you will want to pick a clear day. It is a very good place for a panoramic photograph of Athens.
Athens – Lycabettus Hill – Church and Observation Patio
Athens – Lycabettus Hill – Church of Saint George – Group Photograph
You can also visit the church and then have a relaxing drink at one of the many bars on this hilltop.
The temple stands to the right of the entrance, almost as a sentinel to this very religious place. Situated to the right of the Propylaea, it is the most fully iconic temple in the Acropolis. Unfortunately what we see today is a reconstruction of what it must have looked like before the Turks destroyed the temple in 1686.
The Acropolis – Temple of Athena Nike
The Acropolis – From the Propylaea or Gatehouse – Temple of Athena Nike
The Parthenon
Under a constant state of preservation, repairs and reconstruction the Parthenon is well signed and for the most part well protected from the tourists. It is an impressive structure, when placed behind the backdrop of history, being built more than 2500 years ago.
The Acropolis – Parthenon
The Acropolis – Parthenon
The Parthenon
There are a few additional points of interest below the Acropolis, but no less important.
Sanctuary of Dionysos Eleuthereus
The Acropolis Museum – Area of the Dörpfeld Excavations
The Acropolis Museum – Area of the Dörpfeld Excavations
The Acropolis Museum – Large Statue
The Acropolis Museum – Large Statue
The Erechtheion
My favorite is the Erechtheion and the Porch of the Maidens, also know as the Caryatid Porch. It is one of the only, if not few, buildings in the Acropolis that does not have a symmetrical architecture. It is theorized this either had to do with the numerous cults that built the structure, or the uneven ground it was built on, making a classic Greek structure impossible.
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Acropolis – The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
The Erechtheion and Porch of Maidens
From the southeast side the asymmetry is easily seen, with the Porch of the Maidens displaying its most iconic feature.
The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens – Southeast View
The Agora
Not far from the slopes of the Acropolis is the Agora, or the central meeting place for all ancient Athenians. Primarily of religious significance, but also used for business, politics and artisans. The main street was called the Panathenaic Way, which ran through the Agora to the main gate of Athens.
Grounds of the Agora, Looking at the Temple of Hephaestus
Grounds of the Agora
Looking at the Agora and Stoa of Attalos
Stoa of Attalos
The Stoa of Attalos was central to the Agora and primarily used as a place to conduct business. Stoae are buildings constructed with a portico, as a defense against the sun and weather. It was reconstructed in the 1950s, using many of the original pieces, especially on the north side of the building, but reinforced in the basement area in order to be properly repurposed the building as a museum. Here is where the trades people, artisans and shop keepers could sell their wares and conduct business.
The Stoa of Attalos – The Facade
The portico serves as an outdoor museum, while the upstairs serves that same purpose, but provides that more indoor feeling. Many of the pieces are statues and busts of high ranking individuals in ancient Greek society.
The Stoa of Attalos – The Portico
The Stoa of Attalos – Head of Alexander
The Stoa of Attalos – Diorama of Buildings
The Stoa of Attalos – The Portico
The Stoa of Attalos – Diorama of Buildings, the Agora and Temple
The Stoa of Attalos – Museum Works
The Temple of Hephaestus
Probably the most well preserved structure on the grounds of the Agora, even parts of the roof are still intact, is the Temple of Hephaestus. Considering its age and that fact that it was never destroyed during a war or plundered for building materials, it stands nimbly on the grounds of the Agora as a testament to Greek architecture.
Grounds of the Agora – The Temple of Hephaestus
Walking around the structure one can easily take photographs of its interior and columns.
The Temple of Hephaestus
The Temple of Hephaestus – Columns and Inside Details
The Temple of Hephaestus – Ceiling
The Temple of Hephaestus – Columns
The Odeon of Agrippa
Unfortunately not much of the Odeon of Agrippa structure still exists, with the exception of its magnificent columns. Built in relief, the four columns depicted giants and tritons, all of which are heavily damaged. Initially designed and built as a hall to hold performances in, its structure was not designed like other buildings to endure the ages. It fell into ruin fairly quickly and was rebuilt at some point in the second century and repurposed later as a lecture hall, only to be destroyed by a Herulian raid in 267 CE.
Statues at the entrance to the Odeon and Agrippa
Restaurants
As with any large European city restaurants abound in Athens and it offers a wide range of cuisines and options for anyone’s appetite. With some proper planning and reservations you should have no problem enjoying Greek dining during your vacation. Failure to do so will in most cases result in long wait times and exploring other options.
The Arcadia
We ate lunch at the Arcadia and enjoyed a very nice meal after a morning of exploring Athens.
The Arcadia Restaurant – Greek Salad
The Arcadia Restaurant – Gabi, Dana and Erick
The Arcadia Restaurant – Patti, Tristan and Ericka
The Arcadia Restaurant – Soup
Maiandros
Reservations are a must for this restaurant. The Maiandros Restaurant gets high marks for excellent traditional Greek cuisine and price. If you want to take advantage of its fine cooking and still have money left in your pocket, look no further than this restaurant. I would suggest ordering the Stifado, if you are meat lover (which I am not, but how could I resist), you will not be disappointed.
The Maiandros Restaurant – Store Front
The Maiandros Restaurant – Menu
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado pic
The Maiandros Restaurant – Greek Salad
The Maiandros Restaurant – Stifado
PalioTetradio
Perched atop a long staircase on the slopes of the Acropolis sits the Palio Tetradio. This little alley and staircase is packed with restaurants and is more of a tourist attraction and known for its ambiance, than its food and service.
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Vegetable Soup
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Pork Souvlaki
View From Out Table – The Palio Tetradio Restaurant
However, they do have live music and since several of the other restaurants have their own musicians, it can feel like dueling musical talents as some points during your dinner.
The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Musicians
Wines
The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Athens. You don’t necessarily have to purchase a very expensive wine, most house wine is completely drinkable and satisfying.
Wines – Einomaypo Reserve 2018 – Front Label
Wines – Einomaypo Reserve 2018 – Back Label
Wines – ΜOΣXOΦIΛEPO ZAXAPIA – Moschofilero Zacharia 2021 – White – Front Label
Wines – ΜOΣXOΦIΛEPO ZAXAPIA – Moschofilero Zacharia 2021 – White – Back Label
Wines – Kτήμα ΓΕΡΟΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ – GEROVASILEIOU Estate 2019 – Red – Front Label
Wines – Kτήμα ΓΕΡΟΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ – GEROVASILEIOU Estate 2019 – Red – Back Label
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook – Another Panorama
This is just a quick post to document our first local hike from Malpertus to the closest town, Bobbio Pellice. As already mentioned in a previous post, there is a number of trails around that you can hike. The one we chose to go into town, is the same one that goes across Napolean’s Bridge just outside our Borgata and is called the Pista Bassa.
Once over the bridge the trail ascends quickly and then flattens out and appears to be used often by local farmers, since there are clear signs of tractor use. Since I want to keep this short, here are a few slide shows for the points of interest.
The Pista Bassa Hike
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – circa 1640 and other dates
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – more dates
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Napolean’s Bridge – even more dates
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our Host Sam out front
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Terrace
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Old Terraces
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Borgata’s Main Water Source
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – An old barn in disrepair
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Patti and Lisa behind us talking
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Deviation to the Pista Ulta
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our host’s son Luca
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – Our hosts Sam and his son Luca
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Hiking the Pista Bassa – The Flowers
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa
Flowers of the Pista Bassa – Star of David
Restaurants
Trattoria del Centro
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga
After our short hike, it was time for lunch and some refreshment. Our local host Sam quickly introduced us to the owner of the Trattoria del Centro, where we were able to order local home cooked food at a very reasonable price.
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Appetizer
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Spaghetti alla Ragu
Trattoria del Centro – Local Case Linga – Creamy Panna Cota, Coffee and Sambuca
After our meal, which included wine, water, appetizer and pasta for both of us; then I order dessert, coffee and sambuca; and the entire bill came to 30€. I will also include that the Panna Cotta had the most delicate and creamy texture that I have yet had in Italy.
Leaving Bobbio Pellice – Pellice River
We returned to the Borgata the same way we came, which helped us discover a few more visual treats, especially a small outcropping with terrific views.
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Overlook of mountains
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Patti in field along the trail
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice – Beautiful Overlook
And a short video of Patti hiking the trail.
So that concluded our day hike from Malpertus to Bobbio Pellice, complete with Pranzo (that’s Italian for lunch). We found this a great short hike, with some points of interest along the way. So, if you are ever in the area, you should give it a try and enjoy the cool mountain air and beautiful surroundings. Ciao for now!
Trail Map
If you are interested in our trail map, see the image below. Or, while using standard and accepted security practices, feel free to download the PDF here.
Malpertus to BobbioPelice PistaBassa TrailMap, including Napolean’s Bridge
Festival T-Shirt – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
This weekend turned out to be extra special, in that a special festival occurred in the valley known as the “La Fira ‘d la Pouià “, or the fair for the transfer of livestock to their seasonal feeding grounds, also known as transhumance.
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
Anxious Crowd Awaits – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
Crowd Gathering – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
Crowd Gathering – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
The small town of Bobbio Pellice hosts this event twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall. Participation by any farm family is voluntary, but many do so, since they have representative booths within the festival grounds. This provides them an opportunity to sell products they make during the year from their farms and animals, like meat, cheeses and other delicacies.
Marching Band Arriving – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
It starts with a small marching band that processes up the main street, announcing the arrival of the animals.
Then the children lead a procession down the street, after which one can begin to hear the sound of cow bells.
They remain in the town square for some time playing music until all of the animals, along with their families, have passed.
Cows Arriving – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
The animals are outfitted with celebration bells, many containing award ribbons that each animal may have won during past fairs, or just fitted with a simpler bell fitting for the occasion.
After they are pastured nearby and judged, these are replaced by smaller and more utilitarian bells which will be worn for the rest of the trip and while they are in their mountain pastures for the summer.
Cows Sporting Their Bells – La Fira ‘d la Pouià – Bobbio Pellice – 2022
When the animals finally come, the parade starts with the larger animals, the cows and later quietly proceeds down to the smaller ones, when the sheep and the goats arrive.
The sheep are customarily under the vigilant eye of a number of dogs, which are trained to watch over them day and night. These animals are not aggressive, but they are very territorial and it is wise to stay away from them and the flock they guard. Rumors have it, they are known to have even killed humans who trespass.
Clouds over Bobbio Pellice
If you are looking for that kind of one off experience and a lover of animals, a trip to Bobbio Pellice to watch this festival is definitely worth it. Many are day trippers who drive to the town, but parking space is extremely limited, so get there early. Since the area offers amazing hiking opportunities, we preferred the slow travel approach and took the train to Pinerolo, then transferred to our Bed and Breadfast here for the week. A short walk down the street would have brought us here, but instead our hosts were going to attend and kindly offered us a lift, which we gladly obliged.
For some time, my wife Patti has been wanting for us to visit her friends in Malpertus. Thankfully with Covid restrictions waning, hopefully along with the virus itself, we finally committed to visiting them this week. In order to get there, we had to take the train from Turin’s Porta Susa terminal, instead of our customary train station, Porta Nuovo. Once on the train, the trip length was about forty-five minutes, which included about eight stops along the way.
Pinerolo appeared to be fairly quiet and we had noticed most people were preoccupied with the Saturday market place, that was taking place in the main square from the train station. We took little notice of this and continued directly down the main street, via Del Duomo, until we found a suitable place to eat.
Restaurants
Trattobar Kreuzberg
We initially stopped at a pizza place, but they apparently only took orders inside. So, after a quick reconnaissance further up the street we found a trattoria called Trattobar Kreuzberg.
TrattoBar Kreuzberg – Santa Vittoria with Chocolate – Pinerolo
Though the food was very good and for a fair price, the service, even for Italian standards, was very slow. It took us all of three hours to complete our lunch, and we could tell several other clients sitting at tables next to use were not happy either, and they were Italian. So if you are in a hurry, either get seating inside or by the entrance (of course in the hope they will see and not forget you) and not out in the umbrella piazza annex, where we were seated.
Borgata Malpertus
Our hosts live in a very small hamlet called a Borgata. It’s actually just a string of small stone houses collected neatly on the hillside of the Pellice River Valley.
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
The rest of the Borgata is contained within a few roads or alleys, through which anyone can amble at their leisure. There are few residents here and some of the structures are in dire need of repair and restoration.
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Repairs needed – Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Our host, hostess and their son are great and they have done an amazing job of renovating their own place.
Lisa and Sam Chiodo – Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus – Malpertus
Their son Luca – Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus – Malpertus
Venturing Out A Bit
Taking a short walk from the Borgata and a stone’s throw away is Napolean’s Bridge. Of course, Napolean did not build, nor even cross the Pellice River using this bridge. It was built at least a hundred years before he was even born and it is believed that his army never ventured down the valley that far, if in this valley at all.
Pellice River – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
From the Pellice River – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Pellice River – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Pellice River – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Older Buildings (circa 1600s) – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Italian Farm Fencing – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Patti and mountians – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
However, it is a nice walk and an improbable feature of the valley, since it appears to have been built near no know important structure, castle or fortress, yet obviously took a tremendous amount of work to complete.
Flowers – Malpertus
Flowers – Malpertus
Flowers – Malpertus
Flowers – Malpertus
Flowers – Malpertus
Along the way there are an amazing assortment of flowers and as with other parts of Italy, the fields and pastures are abuzz with this sound of bees and the chirping calls of crickets. So if you are looking for a place for some peace of mind, this might be an appropriate place for you.
Usually when visiting one of Italy’s best kept secret cities, you would think that there wouldn’t be much to do for the outdoors enthusiast. But nothing could be further from the truth. Turin has a wealth of parks sprinkled throughout the city. Most are for casual pleasure, walking the dog, strolling the baby carriage or just a good jog.
The view from the Borgo Po, Corso Moncalieri, Turin
However, just a short mile and a quarter walk from our apartment in Turin is the entrance to Giacomo Leopardi Park. Here one can find a real hiking adventure, if you are so inclined.
Giacomo Leopardi Park
Once accessible via car, it is now only open to the public via the pedestrian access and can be entered by casual walkers, hikers and any cyclists willing to dare its steep slopes.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
The park still maintains a roadway that may be walked, but for the more adventurous, there are several hiking trails that take a more direct route upwards.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – The Trails
Our initial thoughts were to make the entire hike up to Mount Eremo, visiting the Parco di San Vito along the way. However, Alltrails Pro, the portable phone application we use, gives only one value, instead of a range, for the length of time it might take you to reach your goal, which of course may not fit into your body’s aerobic or fitness calculus. So you may want to add additional time to any of the ‘moderated accepted hikes’, in order to account for any stops, water or photography breaks.
Hiking the road
Some stairs to hike
The hiking trail is well signed
Patti on the trail
Again, the trail is well signed
The link between this park and the next one, Parco di San Vito, entails some roads and real hiking.
San Vito Park
You will find the Parco di San Vito about a third of the way up to the Colle della Maddalena, or Mount Maddalena.
San Vito Park
A view of the city from San Vito Park
One of the amazing things about Turin, and Italy in general, is there willingness to not poison everything. Unlike America, they do not run out and get a can of weed killer or herbicide when something springs up that does not look like a sanctioned type of grass. Hence, the fields at the park actually have many types of wild flowers, bees and crickets! So do not expect dead silence when hiking here, like you would in most city parks in America.
After this park, we hiked a bit further up the mountain towards a small picnic area located on the map. Our plans after two hours of hiking modified somewhat, since at this point we were only halfway to our original destination.
The trail above San Vito
Patti hiking the trail above San Vito
Patti on the trail above San Vito, wild flowers are everywhere
The trails up through this stretch of woods were a bit more undeveloped and natural, the floor of the woods covered with different flowers.
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flower at picnic area Bert
Flowers in picnic area Bert
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
The hike through the woods continued for about another three quarters of a mile or so, and we were thinking of modifying our plans for the day.
Picnic Area Bert
After coming off the trail and turning around a bit on Quadriva Raby, you may head back and get back on the trail from Cascina Natura Pro Natura. A small picnic area on the side of the hill with a small field, some facilities if you are inclined and a picnic bench for lunch, or just a drink of water and a cliff bar.
Hiking the road up to Cascina Bert
The road up to the picnic area
Picnic area – Pro Natura Torino – Cascina Bert
The trail head down is located just to the left of that last picnic bench above. A marker can be found on the tree. However, if you miss this, there are signs and a map by the parking lot and buildings that are over to the right.
Bird Song and Fifteen Seconds of Calm
This is actually an amazing hike and you will find yourself stopping frequently just to enjoy the quiet and being out of the city for some respite.
Patti on a city stairwell in the Borgo Po area
Upon returning to Turin after about three and a half hours of hiking bliss, we took some shortcuts and discovered to what extreme Turin is willing to let some things go natural. Just goes to show, without humans around just how fast nature is willing to reassert itself.
Tucked along the eastern bank of the River Po and within the confines of the Metropolitan City of Turin sits Moncalieri. No more than a fifteen minute bike ride for me down the Corso Moncalieri from our apartment in Turin, it took us a twenty minute walk to the train station, followed by a twenty-five minute train ride, with a change in Lingotto. Of course, there are other options, but none that we could take conveniently from where we live in Turin.
Tickets for Two – Moncalieri – Turin
Moncalieri – The Town
A quick hop off the train and you may bump into the weekly market, if you travel there on the weekend. This is the traditional market that most places in Italy entertain at least once a week, so that locals can buy everything from household goods, cheap everyday things like sponges, to more exotica like gold coins and older things, some would like to call antiques.
Train station – Moncalieri, Turin
Once you have left the train station and navigated the small Borgo Navile, where the market is held, you will find the center of town by walking the via San Martino.
Municipal Building – Moncalieri, Turin
Via S. Martino – Moncalieri – Turin
Church overpass of street – Moncalieri, Turin
Piazza VIttorio Emanuele II – Moncalieri Center – Turin
At the end of this short journey you will find the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II[1]Named after the King of the same name, the castle of Moncalieri was his favorite summer retreat, the town’s main fountain and the Comune Building for Moncalieri. The significance of the Roman God Neptune is unclear, other than he was the Roman God of Fresh Water and the Sea, and that the fountain was most likely the main source of water before indoor plumbing for the town’s people.
Neptune Statue – Comune Building in Moncalieri Center – Turin
Castello Reale di Moncalieri
A must see when visiting here is the large and private Castle Real of Moncalieri. For a modest fee you can enter the castle, which experienced a fire in 2008[2]The fire destroyed several rooms on the upper floor and was contained, but most of the damaged was just contained and never renovated., and take the guided tour, which is only in Italian. Fear not, there are enough references in the story for most people to follow and our tour guide did speak english and filled us in while walking on the more important points.
Garden and View – Castle of Moncalieri – Moncalieri, Turin
Garden – Castle of Moncaliere – Moncalieri, Turin
Castello Reale – Moncalieri, Turin
Restaurants
Osteria e Gastronomia
Tucked between the UniCredit Bank and an apartment building off the beginning of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II is a very good restaurant, the Osteria e Gastronomia. It was already lunch time, so we grabbed a small two person table right in the alleyway and were immediately greated by our hosts. A quick view of the menu and we were ready for some delicious Piemontese food.
Osteria e Gastronomia – Moncalieri,Turin
I ordered the Agnolotti del plin tradizionali con sugo d’arrosto, a typical Piedmont dish of very tiny ravioli stuffed with meat in a meat sauce, very tasty! It doesn’t look like much, but is actually very filling. Along with some bread, a glass of Nebbiollo alla spina, and water, how can you go wrong for lunch?
Agnolotti del plin tradizionali con sugo d’arrosto
Patti ordered the Agnolotti con salsiccia di Bra e porri con crema di parmigiano e guanciale croccante, which are larger ravioli made with sausage from Bra and leeks, topped with Bacon. A little Parmesan and you have a great lunch.
Agnolotti con salsiccia di Bra e porri con crema di parmigiano e guanciale croccante
Well, we hope you enjoyed our adventure to Moncalieri, because we did and were actually surprised. Though it took longer to get there than we had originally hoped, it wasn’t all that bad and definitely worth the trip, if only for the food!
Well we are finally back in Turin and enjoying the weather, food and getting our lives back together. Our first week consisted of maintenance, paying bills and getting some chores done, typical things that have to be done after being away so long. So for our first short entry, a small video clip on picking up a roasted chicken at our favorite place, Girarrosti Santa Rita, located across the river Po, next to the Chiesa Parrocchiale della Gran Madre di Dio. This is a great place for picking up a roasted chicken with potatoes, then bring it back to your apartment or hotel room and enjoy. Though the price has gone up to about 10€, from its former price of about 7€, we still think it’s a great buy, especially when you are starving and do not want to cook. Enjoy!
Restaurants
Trattoria D’Agata
One on our way to purchase plumbing supplies, to fix our bathroom drain which had gone bad in our absence, we were hungry for Pizza. Having already visited Pizzium on via Eusebio Bava, we decided to try Trattoria D’Agata across the street and were not disappointed. Patti had the Taleggio e Funghi pizza, with Taleggio a local cheese, tomatoes, Fiordilatte (cow’s milk mozzarella) and mushrooms; and I had the Napoli, with tomatoes, Fiordilatte, oregano and Acciughe (Anchoivies).
Front of Trattoria D’Agata
Inside Trattoria D’Agata
Inside Trattoria D’Agata
Outside Seating Trattoria D’Agata
Pizza Napoli – Trattoria D’Agata
Pizza Taleggio (cheese) and Mushrooms – Trattoria D’Agata