Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
Of the five Borromeo islands that make up that small group in Lake Maggiore, three have ferry service to them, one is uninhabitable, but has a beach you can visit, and the other, not far off the coast near Pallanza, is small and not frequented by visitors.
CMA Ship Ticket – Tickets For Two – Three Island Tour – Stresa, Italy
CMA Boat Service to the islands – Stresa, Italy
One should note, at least for our CMA ferry service, the islands are visited in an order, as presented below. Altering this order is impossible, if not very difficult, so plan accordingly.
Isola Bella
Isola Bella is probably the most frequented of the three. It has an ostensibly renowned italianate garden, which you have to purchase tickets for of course, but they do include access to the palazzo and the other gardens on Isola Madre.
Isola Bella and Madre Garden tickets – Tickets For Two – Stresa, Italy
Isola Madre from Isola Bella – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Palazzo
The entrance to the gardens is via the palazzo, you cannot just walk into them. We walked through the old fishing town thinking there were multiple entrances to the gardens, there are not. There is only one, through the palazzo and after the ticket counter.
Palazzo Borromea – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to the palazzo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
A walk-through of the palazzo is provided in the below slideshow.
Staircase to Salone Nuovo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Staircase to Salone Nuovo – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old Marble for staircase – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Sala del Trono and Sala della Regina – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Puppets and Marionettes – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Puppets and Marionettes – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd rock style rooms – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stone spiral stairway – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stone spiral stairway – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway storing other artifacts – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Galleria degli Arazzi – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The gardens are accessed from the palazzo through what is called Diana’s Atrium, a small sub-garden with stairways to the garden. There is not much to see here and it is probably meant more as a meeting place, than any important adjunct to the gardens, so we ascended to the gardens almost immediately.
To the gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens do contain some interesting species, especially the old Camphor tree that was planted there in 1819 by Vitaliano IX Borromeo. It also houses a peacock and peahen, which will provide the necessary background noise in the gardens for any videos you wish to make.
Camphor Tree on Camphor Terrace – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stairs to another level – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Peacock and Peahen – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Stresa – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Gardino d’Amore – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Gardens – Palazzo Borromeo – Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Apparently the pride of the gardens is the Massimo Theater. A rather odd assemblage of opulent statues and finished by Carlo IV, it probably points to the decedent past these properties enjoyed.
Even though its proper name of Isola Superiore belies its size, Isola dei Pescatori is the smallest of the three islands. Its main attraction is the small fishing town that stretches from three quarters of its shoreline.
Small town streets – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Narrow alleys – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Jolly Roger – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hydrangea – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
There is only enough room here for restaurants, cafes, shops, boat docks and the odd park on the northwest side of the island. So, casually walking its streets and narrow alleyways is, more or less, the only thing to do here, aside from eating of course.
Rocky beach on the island – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Park at the end of island – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Isola Madre
Isola Madre is the largest of the three and for the most part is an island with a garden and palazzo on it. The garden is entered first, after turning right off the boat and taking the a long garden path walk around a third of the island.
Map – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance to gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old Palm tree – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Coast – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Patti in gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
View of Pallanza and Laveno – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Once you pass the entrance, where a person will scan your tickets, the garden begins.
Entrance statue – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Entrance statue – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Garden
I found this garden quieter, more casual and more enjoyable overall. It has a few different sections, including a jungle environment which is very wet and grows ferns and other jungle type plants.
Looking back at Stresa – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Patti on garden steps – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Garden walkway – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Eucalyptus trees – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers and Dark Throat Golden Pheasant – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Dark Throat Golden Pheasant – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More flowers – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hydrangea – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Ferns in the wet part of the gardens – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
More ferns – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old boat or gondola dock – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pallanza – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
An old Taxodium Distichum or swamp cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Leaves of the swamp cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
A rather poor specimen of Sequoiadendron Giganteum, labeled Wellingtonia Gigantea, or the giant sequoia – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Pathway and Bamboo grove – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Walkway towards the palazzo – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Palazzo
Immediately outside the entrance to the palazzo is a huge Cashmir Cypress tree, that was once blown over by a tornado on the island and later saved. It is indeed a magnificent specimen.
The Cashmir Cypress – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The interior of the palazzo is very interesting and a bit disturbing as well. It contains a lot of desiderata, so the displays can often appear disjointed and not themed well. However, taken as the idiosyncrasies of its creators and owners, it is perhaps more understandable. I found it enjoyable though confused at times, in its own way.
Antonio Albertini, Biuditta con la Testa di Oloferne – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Exhibit – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Statue – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Cypress tree from balcony – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Main room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Fireplace – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway crowded with extra furniture – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Chapel and outside garden – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Ivory and Ebony tabletop – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Room with oddities – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Bedroom – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Bedroom for baby and mother – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Cradle – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Hallway – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Elaborate mannequins with Marionette stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionette stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionettes and small puppets – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Marionettes on stage – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Odd women’s room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Dark hallway filled with unused furniture – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Interesting painting – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Study – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Study – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Sitting room – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Murano glass chandelier – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Another Murano glass chandelier – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Old chest – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The Chapel inside – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Outside and exit to boats – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
We thoroughly enjoyed our day visiting all three islands. Though it is a lot to see in one day, it took us about five hours, it is manageable. It might be more difficult if it is hot outside, since all of the gardens are outside and the palazzos do not appears to have any air-conditioning in them. However, there are plenty of places to buy water on each of the islands, so staying hydrated should not be an issue.
Patti by Small pond – Palazzo dell’Isola Madre – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Our CMA ferry – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Leaving the island – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
The island from our ferry – Isola Madre, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Restaurants
Though there are restaurants and cafes on all the islands, we ate on the island of Pescatori because it was in the middle of our day boat trip to all of the islands, and at around half past one, it broke the trip up just about right.
Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero
The Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcodero is on the small island of Pescatori. In fact, most of the good restaurants of the three islands are probably here. It has a wide variety of Italian dishes that one can choose from the menu. For lunch, we kept it simple, since we were both not feeling one hundred percent and already had a substantial breakfast at the hotel.
From the boat – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Spaghetti with tomatoes and lentils – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Spaghetti in simple tomato sauce – Trattoria Ristorante Imbarcadero – Isola Pescatori, Lake Maggiore, Italy
