The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.
Getting There
From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.
Lecce Train Station – Lecce, Italy
The City
Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.
Typical city street – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Narrow carless streets – Lecce, Italy
Old Roman columned wall – Lecce, Italy
The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.
Palazzo Lecciso – Lecce, Italy
Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Di Giustizia – Lecce, Italy
Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles
There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.
Porta di Napoli – Front – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.
Porta San Biagio – Lecce, Italy
The Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.
Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy
War Memorial – Lecce, Italy
In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.
Column of Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy
Roman Ruins
Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Where We Stayed
For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque
We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entryway and Portico – Lecce, Italy
Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy
The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.
This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy
I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine And Lounge
We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Patti outside waiting for soup – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy
While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo
The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.
Tranquillo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Menu – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.
Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy
Syracuse, or Siracusa as you will find it readily marked throughout the island, is one of the first places of historic significance within Italy. It was inhabited in ancient times and finally settled by the Greeks in the early eight century BCE.
Siracusa Centrale – Siracusa, Sicily
Siracusa Centrale – Siracusa, Sicily
The original settlement of the Greeks was on the small island of Ortigia, which still contains several historical and archaeological artifacts from the Greek and Roman periods. See the Ortigia section below for more on that part of the commune and city.
Church of San Tommaso at the Pantheon – Siracuse, Sicily
Santa Lucia Seplicur – Siracuse, Sicily
Santa Lucia Seplicur – Siracuse, Sicily
Alley – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Via Dei Candelai – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Narrow alley – Siracusa, Sicily
Side street – Siracusa, Sicily
Syracuse is divided into three main parts, Ortigia the island and original Greek settlement, Santa Lucia along the coast and the location of our hotel, and the Neapolis the location of the major Greek and Roman ruins .
Ionian Sea – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
Fort Vigliena – Siracusa, Sicily
If you are at this point wondering what ash and puppets have to do with Sicily, and in particular Syracuse, read further. Otherwise, just rest assured it has everything to do with being on this quaint and wonderful island.
Note: Purchase the Museum and Park Combination Ticket at 18€. If you purchase them separately, it will cost you an extra 8€. The combination ticket will get you into both, with money left over for a light lunch.
Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum is an impressive collection of ancient, Greek and Roman artifacts dating back to the seventh and eighth centuries.
Entrance – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The museum’s interior – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Entrance to one of its sections – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Geology – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The museum handles each time period in a sequential fashion, starting with the ancient period of the pre-historic animals and tectonic changes to the area, all the way to the arrival of the Greeks and other colonial powers.
Tectonic plates of Italy – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Pygmied elephant and hippopotamus – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Fossils – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Fossil section – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Prehistoric inhabitants jars – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Old vases – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dipping bowls – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dipping bowls with stemmed handles – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Intricate vases and vessels – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Urns and other vessels – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Thapsos collection – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Bronze dagger – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The burial sites of Pantalica – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Exhibit of a typical burial – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Monte Finocchio – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Centuripe exhibit – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Bronze spear points, buttons and other artifacts – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
The Gorgone – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
A Greek Kouros – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Megara Hyblaea exhibit – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dioramas of Greek architecture found throughout Sicily – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Exhibit of unusual antiquated gutter system – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
Dioramas of ancient Greek Structures on Sicily – Archaeological Museum Paolo Orsi – Siracuse, Sicily
More than one area within the south-eastern coast of Sicily is addressed, as well as other major areas to the north and in the center. In all, the museum provides an excellent historical picture of the island of Sicily.
Archaeological Park
The Archaeological Park, also known as the Neapolis Archaelogical Park of Syracuse, is situated about two and a half kilometers from the island of Ortigia. However, a brisk walk can get you there in about twenty or so minutes.
Entrance walkway – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Grotto caverns – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Tickets may be purchased at the gate, now across the newly blue painted intersection.
The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
If you follow the signs, like we did, you will be taken to group ticket sales, which will still sell you tickets, but its out of the way and you will have to walk through a path of vendors before actually finding the ticket booth.
Latomia or Grottos
When you enter the Neapolis the first thing to visit is the Grotto, or the large quarry where they used to mine stone for building. This is a huge cutout in the surrounding rock face which is about fifty or so meters in height.
A walk to the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Small park area – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Small park area – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Grotto of Salnitro – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
It appears to have had several cave-ins in the past, which probably occurred as they were mining the stone. There is evidence of the former inhabitants leaving large columns behind in an attempt to prevent additional cave-ins from occurring. Whether they were successful or not, it is not known, there are no information signs or other historical information provided at the site.
Another section of the Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Grotto entrance – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Ear of Dionysus Grotto – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Greek Theater
Built into the side of the hill, the Greek Theater was originally constructed in the fifth century BCE and later re-constructed several times, including by the Romans. Currently it has been further modified by the contemporary Syracusians for use as a theater again, building a scaffold like theater on top of the pre-existing Greek Theater, in order to have out-door performances and other events.
A walk to the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The necropolis near the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Ancient stone stairway of the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Necropolis – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Area around the Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The renovated Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The renovated Greek Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Behind the theater is a necropolis and grotto, both of which may be visited while visiting the structure.
The Roman Theater
The Roman Theater is found on the way out of the park complex and extends to the exit for some way.
A map of the Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Entryway to the Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
The Roman Theater – The Neapolis – Archaeological Park – Siracuse, Sicily
Island Of Ortigia
Ortigia, also known as Ortygia or Citta Vecchia (old city), is an island within the city of Syracuse. It is connected to the mainland and the rest of Syracuse by two bridges, the Umbertino Bridge and the Bridge of Santa Lucia.
Umbertino Bridge – Siracusa, Sicily
Umbertino Bridge – Siracusa, Sicily
Ortea Palace Hotel at night – Siracusa, Sicily
The old market place – Via Emmanuele de Benedictus – Siracusa, Sicily
At the entrance of the ancient city is the Temple of Apollo. This is the first site anyone will see upon entering the city. Continuing around the temple visitors will automatically ascend the Corso Giacomo Matteotti, or the main street. This is the main shopping street, containing all contemporary brands and shops and will lead one to the Fountain of Diana.
Syracusae boardwalk – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Temple of Apollo – Siracusa, Sicily
Statue of Archimedes – Umbertino Bridge – Siracuse, Sicily
Temple of Apollo – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
From this traffic-circle; going to the left will take one to the Puppet museum and theater, and the eastern part of the island; going right will take one to the Piazza Duomo and the tourist shopping street, which will also take you to the Syracuse Cathedral.
Temple of Apollo – Siracusa, Sicily
Fountain of Diana – Siracusa, Sicily
Info Center – Siracusa, Sicily
Piazza Minerva – Siracusa, Sicily
Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Santa Lucia Church – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Lungomare Alfeo – Siracusa, Sicily
Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Papyrus Grotto – Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Papyrus Grotto – Arethuse Spring – Siracusa, Sicily
Church – Siracusa, Sicily
Side street – Siracusa, Sicily
Puppet Museum
This is an interesting little museum covering the history of a specific heritage of puppet making on the island of Ortigia. Therefore, the puppets are specifically built around tales and folklore of the people of Sicily.
Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The puppets range in size from small (approx. 20cm in height), all the way to life size. There are many examples of finished products and some of contemporary origin. One display also shows the progression of making a puppet, from the carving stage through final assembly. All very instructive.
Assortment of small puppets – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Assortment of knight puppets – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Small store front to scale – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Old advertisement sign – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
A favorite puppet antagonist – The devil – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The dwarves, smurfs and others – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The six headed beast – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Dragons – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Horse drawn wagon and driver puppet – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Workshop puppets at different stages of finishing – Puppet Museum – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Puppet Theater
Street sign – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Entrance – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
I was originally hesitant to go the Puppet Theater. But after attending a show, I am glad I had. Not only does the host explain the tale in great detail in English, before it is performed. But the actually acting and enactment of the tale was so compelling, I was captivated, even though I had no idea what was being said at many points during the performance.
Tickets for Two – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Tickets for Two – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
The theater space is very personal, with only enough room for about 50-60 people, and they will seat others if needed in the aisle (on the steps). Therefore, if you need to take any medically necessary precautions in cramped quarters, be prepared before you arrive.
The stage in action – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
An ancient Sicilian tale – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
A demon is always close by – The Puppet Theater – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Maniace Castle
The Maniace Castle sits at the tip of Ortigia and commands an open view of the Ionian Sea. It is a rather simple structure in function and betrays itself to its many uses down through the ages by its many apparent modifications, including the installation of the lighthouse.
Tickets of Two – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Entrance – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
It is however complete with a moat, or in this case, a large drained sunken area where you can wander and only guess what it used to be like back in the day.
Layout – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Museum – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
From a distance – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
The outside walls – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Bay of Ortigia – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Ionian Sea – Castle Maniace – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral Of Syracuse
In the center of Ortigia sits the Cathedral of Syracuse, a large and fairly simple structure as cathedrals go, having no real apse, but only central and left naves.
Tickets for Two – Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
The inside however is impressive and elegant and worth a visit. The outside of the cathedral displays Doric columns of the original Temple of Athena, which stood on this site prior to the building of the edifice.
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Cathedral of Syracuse – Piazza Duomo – Siracusa, Sicily
Our Hotel
Hotel Musciara Resort
For the six nights we stayed in Syracuse, we stayed at the Musciara Resort. This boutique resort is located about a 15 minute walk from Ortigia Island and has its own beach. It is a three-star hotel, but it is expertly appointed and maintained. There are only about a dozen or so rooms, so book early if interested. It is a on the pricey side, so if you are able, use points.
Entrance – Hotel Musciara Resort – Siracuse, Sicily
Lobby – Musciara Resort – Siracusa, Sicily
Though we did not use the beach at them, since there was a severe upper level low causing rain for many days, we know a set of two lounge chairs and table will cost 110€/day for those wishing to enjoy the water or work on that tan.
The cuisine of Syracuse is of course based mainly on the sea, so people who love fish will definitely enjoy themselves. There are myriads of fish to choose from, as well as octopus, squid, cuttlefish and assorted shell fish.
Trattoria Archimede
We ate lunch here and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. They have a nice garden where one can enjoy an relaxes lunch away from the hustle and bustle of Piazza Duomo.
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Menu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
The food is typical and simple for Sicilian cuisine. We picked basic items, along with the house wine and had a very nice lunch. The staff were attentive and had a very good grasp of English, so communicating in my broken Italian, although appreciated, was not totally necessary, our waiter spoke and understood Italian, English, French and German.
Garden – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Ravioli – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Taglierini e Ragu – Trattoria Archimede – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilia In Tavola
A gastronomic pleasure with an unpretentious interior is Ortigia’s In Tavola Ristorante.
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Via Cavour – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Here, as with many other place, they have home-made pasta and spaghetti. However, we ordered fish, swordfish for me and mackerel for Patti. For dessert we had lemon pie and a cannolo, along with an coffee and an aperitif, the a Sicilian Amaro, for 77€ for two people.
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Grilled Swordfish and Componata with roasted potatoes – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Mackerel with potatoes and tomatoes – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Cannolo with pistachio – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Lemon Pie – Ristorante Sicilian In Tavola – Ortigia – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Cine
Having been eating Italian and SIcilian food for too long, we tried RIstorante Cine and really like it. Though the ingredients are different from what we are used to in Turin and the States (though not unusual), the owner was more than happy to alter any dishes to our tastes. We only ate lunch here and for two, we were able to order an appetizer, primi (vegetable rice) and secondi (chicken or pork or vegetables in white sauce), along with a half carafe of red wine, water, coffee and sambuca for under 30€! It is hard to beat that in a tourist area.
Ristorante Cine – Chinese restaurant – Siracusa, Sicily
Ristorante Cine – Chinese restaurant – Siracusa, Sicily
Involtino and Rice Cantonese – Ristorante Cine – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Pork and onions in brown sauce, Shrimp and onion in white sauce – Ristorante Cine – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia
We ate lunch here on Sunday, the 21st of May, 2023, after visiting the Archaeological Park and when unbeknownst to us Mount Etna was erupting.
La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia Ristoranta – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
Tagliatella alla pomodoro, bruschetta – La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia Ristoranta – Ortigia – Siracuse, Sicily
After we finished and began walking back to the hotel, we noticed dust getting in our eyes. At the time we had no idea why and surmised that the recent bad storm had brought in dust from Africa, which can occasionally happen. When we read the next day that the Catania Airport had closed due to ash if finally dawned on us that it had been the ash from the volcano all those miles away that was the cause.
Gelateria
If you are looking for gelati in Sicily, do not buy the brightly colored ones, usually they are made of inferior ingredients. Instead, look for the Artiginale label. Though you will pay more for a cone of cup of this, it will be far more worth your while in taste later.
Levante Gelateria
Another good Gelateria, providing excellent artisanal gelati. I was particularly fond of their Amerano and Pistachio flavors.
Levante Gelateria – Siracusa, Sicily
Levante Gelati Artiginale – Pistachio and Amorano – Siracusa, Sicily
Fior Di Latte Gelati
Finding very good gelati anywhere in Italy is not a difficult task, here is no exception. It has great artiginale (artisanal) flavors, I ordered the Ortigia and Note Di Sicilia, and Patti ordered the Note Di Sicilia, Mandarin Orange and Dark Chocolate with a hint of orange.
Above the city lies Petrin Hill. A walk of a little over a kilometer and about three hundred steps (if you happen to go that way), or you can take the funicular (which we found to be very crowded on the Sunday), so we walked.
Prague – Hunger Wall on Petrin Hill
Prague – Hunger Wall on Petrin Hill
Prague – Hunger Wall Gate to Gardens on Petrin Hill
Prague – Gardens on Petrin Hill
Prague – Gardens on Petrin Hill
Prague – Three Dome Stefanik Observatory on Petrin Hill
Prague – The Stefanik Observatory on Petrin Hill
Prague – Aviation Monument next to Stefanik Observatory on Petrin Hill
The nice thing about walking, aside from someone you don’t know breathing on you in a confined space, is you get to see things along the way the others in the funicular won’t. Plus, if the weather is nice, it’s actually quite a nice way to spend a Sunday morning.
Prague – Funicular on Petrin Hill
Prague – Chapel of Boziho hrobu on Petrin Hill
Prague – Calvary Chapel and Saint Lawrence Church on Petrin Hill
Prague – Saint Lawrence Church on Petrin Hill
Prague – Fourteenth Station of the Cross on Petrin Hill
Prague – Park on Petrin Hill
Prague – Park on Petrin Hill
Prague – Park on Petrin Hill – Gabi, Patti and Ericka descending stairs
Prague – Park on Petrin Hill – US Embassy to the left
After Petrin Hill, we continued our walk along the river a bit, before going across the Legion Bridge. Here we watched the river boats enter the river lock mechanism, in order to continue their journeys up the river.
Prague – Legion Bridge
Prague – Legion Bridge – Boat Lock
Prague – Legion Bridge – Boat Lock
Restaurants
Luka Lu
If you are looking for good food while dining in a very off-beat interior, look no further than Luka Lu’s. Located on Újezd street in Mala Strana, it is an excellent place for lunch.
Prague – Luka Lu
After our journey through the park and Petrin Hill, the four of us stopped for lunch. The food at Luka Lu’s was very good, service was great and the off-beat interior somewhat of a treat. If you are looking for something different, this might be the place for you. The prices were very reasonable too!
Across from the Isola di San Giulio sits the town of Orta di San Giulio on a promontory jutting out into the lake towards it. It is mostly known for the hill above it, or Sacro Monte, which contains the World UNESCO site of Sacro Monte di Orta.
Omegna – Navigazione Lago d’Orta Servizio Pubblico di Linea – Photograph from afar
Last Treats Of Our Time On Lake Orta
We actually took the public ferry twice[1]It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta to Orta San Giulio, in order to more fully explore what this little town had to offer. While there, we visited the Sacro Monte, the main street of town and many of the shops that are open along the way. After our short stay it was time to head back and enjoy what was left of Omegna before returning to Turin.
Orta San Giulio
A typical lake town on Lake Orta is San Giulio. As expected, most activity and the main square, is down by the water and along the shore of the lake. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in Piazza Mario Motta, as well as some others sprinkled along the main street and in some alleys.
Orta San Giulio – Piazza Mario Motta
The main street, which changes its name almost every block, contains all of the shops in town. Here one can find anything from leather goods – made in Italy, to Piedmont agricultural goods and other local products.
San Giulio – Sculpture of San Francis of Assissi
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley – No Head Room
San Giulio – Typical Restaurant or Enoteca Sign
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio
San Giulio – Sign Painted on Wall
San Giulio – Main Street
Sacro Monte
There are two ways to walk the hill to Sacro Monte, one can either take a left or a right at the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption on via Caire Albertoletti.
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti – Toward Sacro Monte
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti to Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – The Town from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Overview from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Isola di San Giulio from Via Palma
Most people will take the right, it is much shorter and direct, but as we found out, may not be offered on some phone maps[2]I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able. If one takes the left, you will circumnavigate the hill and eventually bring you back around to where you can enter the Sacro Monte from the back parking lot entrance, about a 15-20 minute walk. Of course there is nothing wrong with this, it is just different and longer, but will get you to the same place.
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Interlinking Paths to each Chapel
The Sacro Monte has numerous chapels which one can visit, each having its own purpose, according to Catholic religious sources. Of the twenty or so chapels and churches that comprise the site, we visited about a handful.
Sacro Monte – The Pozzo or Font
Sacro Monte – Chapel
Sacro Monte – Hand Directing Toward Church Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Main Entrance
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Isola di San Giulio
Sacro Monte – Church of Saint Cyricus and the Cemetery
The Rest of Omegna
Our last couple of days in the town of Omegna were spent mostly relaxing. It rained one day, which really curtailed anything we could do, especially with respect to any hiking we had had in mind. However, we were able to venture out in the evening, after the rain had passed and enjoyed the evening mountain air.
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Side Street at Night
Omegna – Piazza XXIV April – Commune Building
Omegna – Nigoglia Stream at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
As an afterthought we would have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here; but must also honestly say, it’s not for everyone. Omegna is really laid back and probably accounts for the wild swings we saw in the number of tourists we saw day to day. The weekends are definitely busier, and all of the Italian holidays, so plan your trip accordingly. There is also a definite lack in the assortment of restaurants and we found it difficult to chose, after having been here for a week. It is also a haven for backpackers, so if you find them annoying, you might want to head elsewhere since they are pretty much everywhere enjoying the fine hiking that is available in the area.
Restaurants
Rosticceria Ruyi
The Chinese restaurant, Rosticceria Ruyi on via Giuseppe Mazzini, essentially saved us from culinary hell. After a week of Caprese, Pizza and Pasta, a well cook meal of rice and vegetables was sorely needed and this restaurant has the food at excellent prices (e.g. a dish of Cantonese Rice – 3€). However, be aware at the time of this writing, they open at 18:00 for take-away but were not serving sit down inside the restaurant until 20:15, or 8:15PM in the evening. So plan accordingly!
Hidden quietly in the north of Italy is the small lake of Orta and the lazy town of Omegna. After two trains and a bus ride, we finally arrived at our new short trip destination. We checked into our three star hotel, the Croce Bianci, perhaps the best centrally located one in the town.
Orta Lake – Panorama from Omegna Shoreline
Because of its small size and lack of glamour, Lake Orta is often overlooked by most overseas travelers, who are more interested in the high impact tourist destinations to check off their bucket lists. It is visited mostly by Italians from Milan, some of whom own weekend homes here, the French, Germans and the occasional Brit. Since there is really not much to see and do on this side of the lake, a short slideshow is perhaps more in order.
Omegna – Nigoglia Square
Omegna – Lake Orta by the bridge
Omegna – The Hotel Croce Bianca (red building)
Omegna – The Strona
Omegna – Caduti Monument
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Caduti Monument and Hotel Croce Bianci – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Caduti Monument
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Flowers
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lake Orta at night
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
We made plans to visit Omegna just to relax and actually do nothing more than just check the lake out. This is definitely a good place to accomplish nothing. However, there are plenty of activities available, from camping, boating, cycling, swimming, hiking and the odd trek to a neighboring town, if one is so inclined. The area is definitely family friendly, even the town has a large and very well equipped playground for them.
The remainder of our trip will visit other parts of the lake and be continued in another entry, so stay tuned. Ciao for now…
Restaurants
Salera 16
A more hip and trendy place is the Salera 16, which caters to the younger crowd with burgers, fries and other handheld items. A good place to stop for something quick.
Omegna – Estiva: Fruit Salad with Prosciutto, Mozarella and Pesto – Salera 16
Omegna – Caesar Salad with Chicken and shaved Parmesan – Salera 16
Al Centrale Bistrot
This little bistrot has excellent food at great prices, though the menu is limited and changes daily. If you are not fussy and adaptable you definitely find a tasty treat here. Their wines by the glass are very good.
Omegna – Pasta Bolognese and Insalata Mista – Al Centrale Bistrot
Omegna – Ravioli with Pesto – Al Centrale Bistrot
Ristorante Il Cavalieri
The first restaurant we visited when we arrived, it offers traditional Italian fare and pizza. It behaves more like a trattoria and gets a lot of local traffic. So an excellent place for reasonably priced authentic Italian food. I found the Vino Sfuso, or bulk house wine, a bit of a disappointment, but it is still drinkable and reasonably priced.
Omegna – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Ravioli and side salad – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Chicken Cutlet Milano Style with Fries – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Tartufo – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Ristorante Punti D’Vista
A ten minute walk along the Lungolago Gramsci of Omegna on the west bank will bring you to this hotel and restaurant. Set slightly uphill from the road it has a commanding view of the lake and plenty of outside seating. Reservations are recommended though, as the patio seating fills up quite fast.
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Rigatoni with olive oil, tomatoes and fried vegetables – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Cheese Cake with currants, Coffee and Sambuca – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
We had little slated for our last full day in Ljubljana, but we did want to see the cathedral and Tivoli Park, both of which we had missed in our former romps around town. I guess that is all that remains of our stay here, which we thoroughly and unexpectedly enjoyed.
The Roman Wall
Back in Roman times the settlement which became this city was called Emona. In order to protect Emona, the Romans built a wall around it, like most other Roman towns of that era.
Ljubljana – Park near Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman or Emona Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
This wall was reconstructed in the early nineteenth century, along with a pyramidal feature for one of its gates.
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
The Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Tickets For Two
The Ljubljana Cathedral is not always open to the public, so you have to check the side door for the times. There is a 2€ fee per person to see the cathedral, so be prepared pay, if you want a peek.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Bronze Door
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Old Papel Seal
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Tivoli Park
Tivoli Park, also known as Tivoli City Park, is pretty large and covers a huge hill that is some four hundred meters in height, so be prepared for some serious walking. For the less ambitious, you may walk around its edges and have just as much fun, without getting tired or sweaty.
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
We went on a Sunday, so it was pretty busy with native Ljubljanians and Sloveniens enjoying the cafes and park facilities.
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park Entrance
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Graffiti Block, also known as the Metelkova Art Museum, is about a block housing a collection of graffiti and alternative art works for public viewing. Since, “A picture is worth a thousand words“, I will let my photographs speak for themselves.
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Restaurants
Foculus Restaurant
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant
Apparently a trendy little pizzeria on the edge of the city not far from the park, but far enough from the center and river so that it is not much affected by all the crowds. We stopped for lunch and something light, so we both ordered salads, which were very good. The prices were very reasonable too!
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant – Chicken Salad
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant – Mixed Salad
Epilog
Well that was our trip to Slovenia. I admitted to my wife many times that I didn’t expect much, but was very pleasantly surprised. If you ever get a chance to go, please do so. The people in the city are very nice and almost all speak English very well, so don’t let your lack of language skills deter you, go!
Ljubljana – Mini Dragon – Try and find them all
Some remaining photographs of this great city, enjoy…
Ljubljana – Another Bronze
Ljubljana – Patti enjoying an iced coffee
Ljubljana – Galleria Building
Ljubljana – City Flowers in the Grass – No Herbicides Here!
Ljubljana – Very old section of town, formerly Emona
At the base of the Southern Limestone Alps[1]They are additionally known as the Julian Alps., or Karawanken Mountains, sits the small town and lake of Bled . It is almost a must see place to go on a day trip from Ljubljana, especially if you have enough time. Since we have the time, we usually overbook our stays at places that are totally unknown to us. For Ljubljana specifically, and Slovenia in general, we were happy that we did, since it afforded us a day trip such as the one to Bled. Slovenia really is a great place to visit!
Bled – entrance from parking lot – panorama
Lake Bled – Getting There
To get to the lake you must travel northwest from Ljubljana, there is the E61 that can be taken by car or bus. The trip normally takes forty-five minutes by car, and up to an hour and a quarter by bus, but can take longer if there is an accident or construction on the highway. Upon the suggestion of the information booth by the Triple Bridge we took the bus, even though we now think the train may be faster. The bus is packed, so if you are worried about Covid-19, and you should, you should be prepared to wear you FFp2 mask.
It should be noted, the bus takes two different routes going to and coming from the lake, each taking about the same time. There is of course the train, which may actually take less time gong to and fromm Bled, but then you have about a twenty or so minute walk from the town of Bled Train Station to the lake. The bus on the other hand goes all the way to the lake, even though we chose to get off at the Blen Union station.
Bus Ride to Bled – Starting out
Bus Ride to Bled – Mountains along the way
Bus Ride to Bled – Sign for Bled
Bled – Upravna enota Radovljica
Lake Bled – The Trail
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
There is an excellent trail that totally circumnavigates the lake, going through several tourist beach and cafe points, any one of which you can take a pause in your walk to get refreshed.
Here is a slideshow of our great afternoon walking the lake shore trail, enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery.
Bled – Bled Castle
Bled – entrance walkway
Bled – Bled Castle
Bled – the Julian Alps in the distance
Bled – Lake Bled is surrounded by the Julian Alps
Bled – trail post
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – how the water runs through the rocks
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – the lake water is bluish green
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – the beautiful lake Bled
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – walking the trail
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Blad Castle
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Slovenia’s only island
Bled – cyan colored water
Bled – cyan colored water
Bled – walking the trail
Bled – road tunnel
Bled – the moss fountain
Restaurants
Hotel Starkl Restaurant
Around 12:30 or so we stopped about three quarters of the way, going anti-clockwise around the lake, at the restaurant Hotel Starkl. It is best to get to any European tourist restaurant thirty to forty-five minutes in advance, because at one o’clock they fill up quickly. Here we purchased simple salads and enough wine and water to enjoy the fabulous weather.
Usually when visiting one of Italy’s best kept secret cities, you would think that there wouldn’t be much to do for the outdoors enthusiast. But nothing could be further from the truth. Turin has a wealth of parks sprinkled throughout the city. Most are for casual pleasure, walking the dog, strolling the baby carriage or just a good jog.
The view from the Borgo Po, Corso Moncalieri, Turin
However, just a short mile and a quarter walk from our apartment in Turin is the entrance to Giacomo Leopardi Park. Here one can find a real hiking adventure, if you are so inclined.
Giacomo Leopardi Park
Once accessible via car, it is now only open to the public via the pedestrian access and can be entered by casual walkers, hikers and any cyclists willing to dare its steep slopes.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
The park still maintains a roadway that may be walked, but for the more adventurous, there are several hiking trails that take a more direct route upwards.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – The Trails
Our initial thoughts were to make the entire hike up to Mount Eremo, visiting the Parco di San Vito along the way. However, Alltrails Pro, the portable phone application we use, gives only one value, instead of a range, for the length of time it might take you to reach your goal, which of course may not fit into your body’s aerobic or fitness calculus. So you may want to add additional time to any of the ‘moderated accepted hikes’, in order to account for any stops, water or photography breaks.
Hiking the road
Some stairs to hike
The hiking trail is well signed
Patti on the trail
Again, the trail is well signed
The link between this park and the next one, Parco di San Vito, entails some roads and real hiking.
San Vito Park
You will find the Parco di San Vito about a third of the way up to the Colle della Maddalena, or Mount Maddalena.
San Vito Park
A view of the city from San Vito Park
One of the amazing things about Turin, and Italy in general, is there willingness to not poison everything. Unlike America, they do not run out and get a can of weed killer or herbicide when something springs up that does not look like a sanctioned type of grass. Hence, the fields at the park actually have many types of wild flowers, bees and crickets! So do not expect dead silence when hiking here, like you would in most city parks in America.
After this park, we hiked a bit further up the mountain towards a small picnic area located on the map. Our plans after two hours of hiking modified somewhat, since at this point we were only halfway to our original destination.
The trail above San Vito
Patti hiking the trail above San Vito
Patti on the trail above San Vito, wild flowers are everywhere
The trails up through this stretch of woods were a bit more undeveloped and natural, the floor of the woods covered with different flowers.
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flower at picnic area Bert
Flowers in picnic area Bert
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
The hike through the woods continued for about another three quarters of a mile or so, and we were thinking of modifying our plans for the day.
Picnic Area Bert
After coming off the trail and turning around a bit on Quadriva Raby, you may head back and get back on the trail from Cascina Natura Pro Natura. A small picnic area on the side of the hill with a small field, some facilities if you are inclined and a picnic bench for lunch, or just a drink of water and a cliff bar.
Hiking the road up to Cascina Bert
The road up to the picnic area
Picnic area – Pro Natura Torino – Cascina Bert
The trail head down is located just to the left of that last picnic bench above. A marker can be found on the tree. However, if you miss this, there are signs and a map by the parking lot and buildings that are over to the right.
Bird Song and Fifteen Seconds of Calm
This is actually an amazing hike and you will find yourself stopping frequently just to enjoy the quiet and being out of the city for some respite.
Patti on a city stairwell in the Borgo Po area
Upon returning to Turin after about three and a half hours of hiking bliss, we took some shortcuts and discovered to what extreme Turin is willing to let some things go natural. Just goes to show, without humans around just how fast nature is willing to reassert itself.
For those wanting and willing to see the Sacra di San Michele and experience this great church and its views, one must hike the three or so kilometers and one kilometer ascent in order to really enjoy what the builders had accomplished here. Not only is it a feat of Middle-Ages engineering and stubbornness, its shear existence defies rationality, and so may I add hiking up to it. Well maybe not exactly, but you should be prepared. We saw many individuals when we were descending wearing the wrong type of shoes, etc. More on that later.
Sant’ Ambrogio – Getting There
A thirty three minute train ride from Turin’s train station Porta Nuova will get you to Sant’ Ambrogio and the beginning of your climb. Let me add, before we begin, that you may drive up to the church; but then you would be among the majority of people there and just mere tourists.
The train station – San Ambrogio
The train station is spartan and leaves you off on track one to enter this small town or hamlet directly. Returning you will have to find the stairwell to the right of the train station and walk under the tracks.
First sight of Sacra di San Michele from train station – Sant Ambrogio
Welcome Sign – Sant Ambrogio
Hiking Trail Signs – Sant Ambrogio
Sacra di San Michele from inside the town – Sant Ambrogio
A sleepy town on Pasquetta (day after Easter) – Sant Ambrogio
A view from the Church of Saint Giovanni Vincenzo – Sant Ambrogio
The trail starts and the Church of Saint Roch – Sant Ambrogio
Follow the signs for two hours – Sant Ambrogio
We arrived the day after Easter Sunday, or as the remembrance in Italy has it for Roman Catholics, Pasquetta [1]Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it … Continue reading The town was more or less empty, so our ideas about a quick climb up and back and an early lunch soon vanished.
On the way up, the rooftops of the town – Sant Ambrogio
The walk through the town was short and without incident, in fact, we were mostly accompanied by the individuals who left the train with us, residents of the town having already left for the long weekend or enjoying amenities inside and their extra day off.
Parco Naturale Orsiera – Sentiero Trail 502
Using the Sentiero Trail 502, or TOS 502, we quickly left the town and started our ascent up the most north-eastern mountain or hill of the Parco Naturale Orsiera. An almost one kilometer ascent for three kilometers with slopes ranging in steepness of three to twenty percent, and I would conjecture most were in the double digits.
This 3 km rises 1000 meters and takes about 1 and a half to 2 hours to hike – Trail Map
The trail was for the most part cobbled with round and larger stones, some which have a remarkable green color, are shiny and very slippery. Proper shoes are important, though it is possible to navigate the trail with tennis shoes or sneakers.
A welcoming sign, this is the right trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The Trail has Cobble and other Stones all the way up – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti navigating the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti on another turn – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio Panorama – Sentiero Trail 502
At a higher elevation, overview of Sant Ambrogio – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio from Sentiero Trail 502
Patti still climbing – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Coming to first ending of trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Upon exiting the trail at a collection of houses, and an interim point in the hike, you will find a large commemorative stone.
Commemoration Wheel 2000 – Sentiero Trail 502
Then you will make a hairpin turn and look up, only to see that your hike up is STILL NOT OVER!
Still a long way up to go – Sentiero Trail 502
Checking the signs indicate approximately another kilometer to hike, which took us about twenty minutes.
Trail Sign, another .8 km to go – Sentiero Trail 502
After the last more modest climb you will walk onto a road, where all the other tourists are walking into from the parking lot. The attraction has a large sign explaining the layout of the church and its grounds.
Sign at entry to Sacra di San Michele
Sacra di San Michele
Once near the church of Sacra di San Michele, the magnificent views are apparent. With its perch high on a rocky crag, the church has a commanding view of the valley below.
Panorama before church at end of trail
Walking up to the church you will find a small building to the right that sells postcards, other tourist paraphernalia and entrance tickets. Once purchased, a turnstile to the left has a QR code reader that will let you enter, then you must start climbing stairs, an unwelcome sign after our long journey.
Tickets for Two – Sacra di San Michele – Sant Ambrogio
Stairs inside – Sacra di San Michele
More stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Erick with Covid mask on ascending more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Again more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
The remainder of our visit consisted of just enjoying the church and the beautiful views. My wife chose this day because the weather promised to be wonderful, we were not disappointed, it was sunny and in the low 60°s Fahrenheit, perfect for hiking.
Finally, the entry – Sacra di San Michele
Mosaics on walls – Sacra di San Michele
The main altar – Sacra di San Michele
Commemoration of the Crucifixion – Sacra di San Michele
Inside the church – Sacra di San Michele
Portraits – Sacra di San Michele
Large Fresco – Sacra di San Michele
Altar – Sacra di San Michele
Spectacular views, by the entrance of the church doors – Sacra di San Michele
Erick and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The end of the valley and a view toward Turin
The Cottian Alps and the valley floor looking towards Susa, taken by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
Patti and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The Susa Valley and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Looking across the valley from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
The ruins and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
More ruins and alpine foothills from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Leaving we took our last look up at the great church and descended along the more difficult trail, due to its increase in steepness, it promised to cut some time off our descent, which it did.
Going down is a bit more treacherous and only 2.5 km, but still takes about 1 and a half hours to hike – Trail Map
However, the first part of this trail is VERY steep and not for anyone ill-prepared or wearing the wrong hiking apparel, so caution! We were actually having second thoughts until we realized it was more difficult to go back up, then to press on and continue downward.
A view of the church descending – Sacra di San Michele
We arrived back in Sant’ Ambrogio almost five hours later, hungry and fairly tired from our experience. Once on the train, we relaxed and started to compare which part of our legs hurt more. However, we were both happy we were able to meet our sacred vertical pilgrimage with a great sense of accomplishment. It was our first big hike of the season, hopefully not our last and if anyone is thinking of doing this or a similar hike, keep the following in mind, we will next time.
Prepare for your hike, research the route and understand how technical it is
Bring a water bottle, the trail has two or three places to refill, this is especially important
Bring lunch or something to eat, there is nothing above except some vending by the ticket counter, but do not count on that
Wear the correct clothing (light and layered) and shoes, hiking shoes would be preferred but thick soled tennis shoes or sneakers will do
Pace yourself, unless you are young be mindful of your body and do not over-exert, you do not want to get into medical trouble on that trail, it will take some time for them to get to you
Go in good weather, unless it’s your intent as an experienced hikers not to
And last but not least.., enjoy yourself, there are amazing things to see and hear on the trail, the flowers and birds are in abundance.
Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it empty.
