Bern, Switzerland – Medieval Town on the Aare

Bern, Switzerland – Medieval Town on the Aare River

Bern was originally settled by Swabians^[1]The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century. from the lower parts of Germany, it is the fifth largest in Switzerland and was initially surrounded by the Aare river on three sides, with fortifications protecting it’s west side.

Marktgasse – Zytglogge – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Bern Fresco – Bern, Switzerland

Getting There

Bern does not have a commercial airport, so you will either have use Zürich‘s or Geneva’s and then take a train. We had already started in Geneva, so taking one of the ICE trains from Geneva to Bern was automatic. However, in typical SBB^[2]Schweizerische BundesBahnen or Swiss train fashion, it was halted before leaving the Lake Léman area and we had to find another train to continue our two hour journey, which then turned into a three hour trip^[3]There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn.

Bern Train Station – Main Entrance – Bern, Switzerland

Bern Train Station – Platform – Bern, Switzerland

Bern Train Station – Main Waiting Hall – Bern, Switzerland

The City

The old medieval city of Bern is rather compact, due to it being confined by the Aare river. The main train station is on the west side of the city, so it is probably best to find a hotel close to it. We stayed at the Hotel Savoy, three blocks away from the train station.

Gerberngasse – Interesting House – Bern, Switzerland

Nydeggbrücke – Rose Garden Hill and Paul Klee Center – Bern, Switzerland

Walking from the train station to the Nydeggbrücke, via the Marktgasse of Kramgasse, should not take more than a twenty-five to thirty minutes without stopping. The main shopping avenue is the Marktgasse, which is lined with many watch stores and most other modern shops you expect to see in city that is heavily traveled. See the restaurant section below for where to go for food.

Marktgasse – Anna Seiler Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Porticos and Shops – Bern, Switzerland

Gerechtigkeitgasse – Kreuzgassbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Rathausgasse – Rathaus – Bern, Switzerland

Rooftops and Houses across the Aare river – Bern, Switzerland

Nydeggbrücke – Wasserwerkgasse from bridge – Bern, Switzerland

Brunnen Or Fountains

The city has a lot of brunnen, or fountains in English, especially down the middle of the Marktgasse. Most of these have figures or other mythical forms, stylized perhaps from some historical figure.

Marktgasse – Zähringer Brunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Marktgasse – Schützenbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Kramgasse – Simsonbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

Münsterplatz – Mosesbrunnen – Bern, Switzerland

There is also the Lischetti-Brunnen, also known as the Postgassbrunnen or Upper Postgassbrunnen, which was erected in 1820 next to the Staatskanzelei (State Chancellery) and is to be used by anyone who wishes to experience being a fountain.

Lischettibrunnen – Kronenbrunner or Upper Postgass Fountain – Bern, Switzerland

Hotel Savoy

A fairly good hotel on the Kramgasse, sharing an entrance with another store. We found it reasonably priced for a Swiss hotel and central for visiting the city. The breakfast is rather expensive, as it is in most Swiss hotels, at 30CHF per person. We found this unreasonable and ventured out each morning to stop at one of the many Konditoreien, or pastry shops, in the neighborhood. This option ran around 9-10CHF per person, but was only coffee and a pastry, which for use was sufficient.

Cathedrals And Churches

A few religious buildings of note in Bern are the Cathedral of Bern and the Church of Saint Peter and Paul.

Cathedral Of Bern

Cathedral of Bern – History of Tower – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Houses of Patrons – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Intricate Facade over Entrance – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Fountain – Bern, Switzerland

Cathedral of Bern – Backside – Bern, Switzerland

Church Of Saint Peter And Paul

Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Nave and Altar – Bern, Switzerland

Church of Saint Peter and Paul – Organ – Bern, Switzerland

Bridges And The Aare River

There are two central bridges that span the Aare at the tip of the city. The Untertorbrücke, the first one to be built and is shown on maps of the city from the seventeenth century, and the Nydeggbrücke, which carries the tram and modern vehicular traffic.

Untertorbrücke – Nydeggbrücke over the Aare – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – The Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke – Patti and the Aare River, Rose Garden on the hill – Bern, Switzerland

Untertorbrücke and the Aare River – Bern, Switzerland

Bären Park

On one end of the Nydeggbrücke is the Bärenpark, or Bear Park. As early as the beginning of the sixteenth century the city has been known to have a Bärengraben, or Bear Pit, of some type or another. Ostensibly the city becoming eponymously named for the same in 1191 when the Duke of Zähringen killed a bear first on one of his many famous hunts. But seriously, this is just conjecture and there is more evidence that it was from a pre-existing toponym of Celtic origin, possibly berna, meaning cleft.

Einsteinhaus

On Marktgasse 49, visitors will find the Einsteinhaus, or the apartment that Albert Einstein lived in during his publication of his ground breaking theories of 1905, including his Special Theory of Relativity.

Kramgasse 49 – Einstein House – Bern, Switzerland

The Rosengarden Bern

One top of the hill on the other side of the Aare river is the park containing the Rose Garden, or Rosengarden. Unfortunately for us, the roses were not in bloom in May, so we were unable to enjoy their colors. However, there were other flowers, trees and bushes to be enjoyed in the park.

Rose Garden – Patti on walkway up to garden – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – Patti and the garden – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – The garden – Bern, Switzerland

It is here, that Albert Einstein probably contemplated many of the problems around his Theory of Relativity, and a bench here so commemorates his efforts.

Rose Garden – Einstein bench and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

From this vantage point you get a very good view of the old Medieval city of Bern, with its many churches, bridges and old style houses.

Rose Garden – Overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

Rose Garden – Erick and overlook of Bern – Bern, Switzerland

Restaurants

The Bärenplatz and Waisenhausplatz are central areas for restaurants and have a good mix of local Swiss restaurants to Italian and other cuisines.

Bärenplatz – Market on Waisenhausplatz – Bern, Switzerland

Santa Lucia Ristorante

Another Italian restaurant which has a very active lunch crowd. Here you can enjoy reasonable prices and a wide selection of Italian dishes, including pizza. Our first evening here we enjoyed the soup and spaghetti.

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti Bolognese – Bern, Switzerland

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Spaghetti and Tomatoes – Bern, Switzerland

Bärenplatz, Santa Lucia Ristorante – Banana Split – Bern, Switzerland

The second time we visited was for lunch, then I ordered a pizza, which was very good and typical of the Neapolitan style from Naples. The house wine is also very pleasant.

Santa Lucia Ristorante – Pizza Margherita – Bern, Switzerland

Ristorante Luce

On the corner of Zeughausgasse and Waghausegasse is the Italian restaurant of Ristorante Luce. If you are looking for higher end Italian food, look no further. The service here is also exceptional, though the seating was a bit cramped.

Ristorante Luce – Patti with her Soup – Bern, Switzerland

Here they serve very good Italian specialties and have an excellent wine list. Here you can find Strozzapreti, or Priest Strangler/Choker Pasta with Mozzarella. A rather large and somewhat gummy pasta with an very interesting history.

Ristorante Luce – Strozzapreti Pasta with Buffalo Mozzarella – Bern, Switzerland

I can specifically attest to spending 150CHF for a 375ml bottle of Ornellaia 2019. A DOC wine from Italy with extremely high ratings which regularly fetches $250-$800 a bottle, a truly amazing wine. So if you are a true wine lover, your pallet might enjoy this restaurant.

Ristorante Luce – Ornellaia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2019 – Bern, Switzerland

References[+]

References
↑1	The Zähringen noble family from around Freiburg im Breisgau in the twelfth century and quickly died out within a century.
↑2	Schweizerische BundesBahnen
↑3	There have been few times when traveling by train in Switzerland was a normal affair. It is getting to be more like the Deutscher Bahn

4 May, 20258 May, 2025

Geneva, Switzerland – Watch Capitol

The Watch Capitol of the world is no doubt Genève, Switzerland. Many, if not all, of the major buildings that surround Lake Léman are adorned with signs from almost every watch manufacturer in Switzerland.

Lake Léman – Clock Manufacturer Signs – Geneva, Switzerland

Though one would have thought that at this point, old mechanical watches would have out-grown their usefulness, but there must still be enough interest in them to support all the manufacturers. Apparently it is more like the diamond trade, than a typical consumer item.

Geneva – The City

It is difficult to categorize Geneva since the city appears to have many different sections and subsequently a different look and feel around every corner. It some places almost haphazard, where a blend of modern and provincial architectures are often seen close together.

Lake Léman – Brunswick Monument – Geneva, Switzerland

Lake Léman – Point Mount Blanc – Geneva, Switzerland

English Gardens – Fountain of the Four Seasons – Geneva, Switzerland

Fountain du Perron – Geneva, Switzerland

Grand Theater of Geneva – Geneva, Switzerland

Rue de la Corraterie – Geneva, Switzerland

Tour de L’Ille – Tower of the Isle – Geneva, Switzerland

Fontaine de l’Escalade – Geneva, Switzerland

Molard Plaza – Molard Clock Tower and Old Gate – Geneva, Switzerland

Lake Léman – Jet d’Eau or Jet of Water – Geneva, Switzerland

Hotel Edelweiss

A three star hotel in the Cornavin area of the city. It sits a few blocks from the lake on the north side of the city. Conveniently located to the train station and the lake cruise station, it is a quiet little hotel with a restaurant. The rooms are adequate, though the air conditioning does not work until some undisclosed time in late spring, so your room can be uncomfortable with the sun coming in, so opening the windows is a must.

Lake Léman

Of course the main attraction in Geneva is Lake Léman and the start of the River Rhone. It is a very clear lake and does not appear very large near Geneva, but as you travel out further on the lake it widens into a formidable body of water.

Lake Léman – Lighthouse – Geneva, Switzerland

City Parks

There are numerous parks throughout the city, enough to call Geneva a Green City. Though you may not agree or enjoy some of the haphazard architecture that composes the city, they were mindful enough to include a lot of green space throughout it environs.

Banc de la Treille – Longest Bench – Geneva, Switzerland

Bastion Park

One of the main parks, Bastion Park, is located across from the Geneva Theatre and contains the Reformation Wall. It is a very nice park for an afternoon stroll and to cool off. Many of its walkways are shaded and there are fountains where you may collect water for drinking.

Bastion Park – Luther’s Reformation Wall – Geneva, Switzerland

Bastion Park – Water Fountain – Geneva, Switzerland

Bastion Park – Old Fortress Wall – Geneva, Switzerland

Park du Pin

A smaller park further to the east is Park du Pin. It resides on the knob of hill with many pines and other shrubbery. Strolling through it is enough to take your mind off the busy streets that are around it. On the top, there is seating where one can enjoy the breeze that blows in from the lake.

Promenade du Pin – Overlook – Geneva, Switzerland

Promenade du Pin – Statue – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens

Not far from the center of the city on the N15 tram are the Botanical Gardens of Geneva. An impressive collection of species from every continent adorn this park. It is strategically located close to the Genève-Sécheron train station as well, which also provides commuter transportation for the United Nations in Geneva.

Broken Chair – Patti – Geneva, Switzerland

N15 Tram – Nations Stop – Geneva, Switzerland

United Nations – Flags and Main Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland

The park is laid out in four sections. One housing most of the botanical gardens plants from each continent. A second has livestock and out buildings for the housing of exotic species from the tropics. A third has a view of the lake and a final section is purposed for outdoor activities.

Botanical Gardens – Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Zen Garden – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Patti – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Erick – Geneva, Switzerland

Geneva_68_BotanicalGardens_53

Geneva_68_BotanicalGardens_54

Botanical Gardens – Plants – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Hill with waterfall, ferns – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Waterfall rock – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Everything in bloom – Geneva, Switzerland

Botanical Gardens – Tropical Venue – Geneva, Switzerland

Basilicas, Cathedrals and Churches

There are a number of important churches in Geneva, below are a few to note.

Basilica Notre Dame of Geneva

The Basilica Notre Dame in Geneva is compact in size and is reminiscent of some large cathedrals we have seen elsewhere^[1]Saint Mary’s Church and Cathedral in Hudson, New York. Unfortunately during our stay, mass was being said and we felt obligated to leave.

Basilica Notre Dame de Geneva – Entrance – Geneva, Switzerland

Basilica Notre Dame de Geneva – Nave – Geneva, Switzerland

Basilica Notre Dame de Geneva – Stained Glass Window – Geneva, Switzerland

Russian Orthodox Church

The Russian Orthodox Church in Geneva carries the characteristic golden domes of other orthodox churches. The inside is also gilded in area and very compact. There is a sign asking for donation of 2CHF at the entrance, however during our stay we carried no cash at all on us, so just took a photograph from the doorway.

Russian Orthodox Church – Inside – Geneva, Switzerland

Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève

The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève is located in the old section of town, perched on the hill close to Place du Bourg-de-Four, an important piazza in the town. Unfortunately it was not open while we were here, being closed for a Stabat Matar concert series.

Cathedral Saint Pierre – Back View – Geneva, Switzerland

Cathedral Saint Pierre – Side View – Geneva, Switzerland

Cathedral Saint Pierre – Archaeologic Site – Geneva, Switzerland

Cathedral Saint Pierre – Front and Entrance View – Geneva, Switzerland

Tour du Romandie

In 2025 Geneva hosted the Tour du Romandie, the last stage race of the spring before the large stage races of the summer. We were fortunate enough to catch the last stage, Stage 5, or Time Trial Stage, on the end of Pont du Mont Blanc. Very exciting.

Tour of Romandie – Pont du Mont Blanc Turnaround – Stage 5, Time Trial Venue – Geneva, Switzerland

Geneva_70_TourRomandie_07

Geneva_70_TourRomandie_12

Geneva_70_TourRomandie_13

Restaurants

Traveling can be daunting, especially when it comes to the different cuisines. The most challenging of which can be the meat based ones, which may not necessarily agree with everyone’s digestive system. Hence, keeping an open mind when in a cosmopolitan city like Geneva is a good thing. French cuisine can be very good, but it can also take a toll on the body after a few days.

Auberge de Savièse

The little restaurant Auberge de Savièse is on Rue des Pâquis and offers typical French cuisine. If you are into crepes, fondues and similar fare, this place offers them all at reasonable prices, at least for Switzerland. They also offer simple things, like soups and salads, if you prefer something lighter. We just had soup and a salad, so didn’t take any photographs.

Zhong Tong

A Chinese restaurant on Rue du Cendrier 10 has pretty good Chinese food. The service is good and it can get busy, but is never overcrowded. If you are craving vegetables, a must stop, especially after all the cheese and other meat oriented dishes exist within the city.

Zhong Tong Chinese Restaurant – Dessert, Cirese (cherry) Ice Cream, Pineapple and Oranges – Geneva, Switzerland

References[+]

References
↑1	Saint Mary’s Church and Cathedral in Hudson, New York

15 April, 2025

Ivrea, Italy – Lake Sirio Repose

After a day of familiarizing ourselves with the town Ivrea, it was time to do some hiking and see the surrounding countryside. Though probably not known to the layperson, the lakes and surrounding area were formed by glacier activity around 9700 BCE. All five lakes and the long, gradual hill in the distance that is not a mountain of the Alps, are actually glacial moraines from that time. Here, after a long hike, we were able to repose along Lake Sirio for a long and needed lunch, as well as a magnificent view.

Five Lakes Hike – Sticker and Course Route – Ivrea, Italy

The Five Lakes Hike

In and around Ivrea are hiking trails known as the Five Lakes Hike through which part of the Via Francigena trail also passes. None of the hiking trails are difficult, per se, however many of the surfaces are poor, so hiking shoes or a good trekking shoe is commended.

Unfortunately, due to time and the weather, we were unable to visit all of them and had to forgoe seeing Lake Nero and Lake Campagna. Luckily, they appear very similar to the ones below that we were able to visit, so no harm done.

Lake Sirio

Our first lake that we encountered was Lake Sirio, perhaps the largest of the five and it has the comenserate amount of lake resources around it for swimming, sunbathing and other activities.

Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Erick – Ivrea, Italy

The trail winds around this lake perhaps three quarters of the way and then veers off into the woods towards Lake Pistono. We followed the trail and then made a wide circle back around, essentially making a circle, to revisit this lake and have lunch at Restaurant Il Cigno.

Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Castello di Montalto – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy

Lake Pistono

Lake Piston is a smaller lake and only offers a few trails to get close to the lake. We found this lake surrounded by more water, which also means more insects, so bug lotion or spray is recommended, they are voracious!

Five Lakes Hike – Trail Marker for Via Francigena – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Trail Marker for a Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Erick – Ivrea, Italy

This lake has one distinction, it is home to one of the Big Benches, which can be found throughout Piedmont in different areas and settings. Such projects make it fun and interesting to get out and find such silly objects. However, having said that, most are in areas that are out of the way and may present difficulty for some. But if you are able, the sights can be beautiful, so go for it!

Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Castello di Montalto – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Patti on the Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Erick on the Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy

Lake San Michele

A smaller lake and closer to Ivrea is lake San Michele. Though we had some bother getting there and visited the Chapel of the Three Kings unintentionally, since the Italians with money just love to block public access to things, even roads, if they can do so.

Five Lakes Hike – Polveriera Park – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – San Michele Lake – Ivrea, Italy

So, we were unable to continue our travels using the Via Boaro, since it is blocked by a gate and a fancy house with video surveillance, so if you have the same idea – don’t bother. Instead, use the Via Cascinette and Via Lago San Michele roads to get to the lake. There is a lake park entrance that may be used, or you can continue on Via Lago S. Michele and see the lake once you round the bend in the road.

Churches And Chapels

Though not known for the churches or chapels, there are a few that can be visited in the area. We found the following when we continued our Five Lakes Hike the next day. The Sanctuary was open, but the chapel appears closed, perhaps for good.

Five Lakes Hike – Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Church of San Lorenzo the Martyr – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Chapel of the Three Kings – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – View from Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy

Restaurants

Il Cigno

We made note of this restaurant on Lake Sirio when we were outbound headed for Lake Pistono and made plans to swing back around for lunch. It has amazing seating right along the shore of the lake with marvelous views of the Graian Alps.

Five Lakes Hike – Erick at Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy

The food is good and prices are reasonable. We were here during the off-season, but one can easily imagine that it gets quite busy in the summer, especially on the weekends, so plan accordingly.

Five Lakes Hike – Patti’s Linguini with Octopus – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Erick’s Insalata Mista – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy

Five Lakes Hike – Erick’s Bonet – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy

Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano

Not far from our hotel, Hotel 3T, along the Stata Stradale (SS26) is the Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano. We ate here one evening only because we did not want to venture from the hotel, who’s restaurant unfortunately was closed.

Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano – Pizza Margherita, Bufalina – Ivrea, Italy

Here is where you will find all the locals looking for excellent pizza at great prices. We ordered a salad, two pizzas, half liter of wine and water for around thirty Euros.

La Gustiera

Another good place to eat, but come early if you do not have reservations, is La Gustiera Osteria. Located on Via Quattro Martiri, La Gustiera offers a select menu every evening of authentic Piedmont cuisine, perhaps half fish and half meat, so something for everyone’s taste.

La Gustiera – Spaghetti Bolognese and Linguini with Cherry Tomotoes and Olives – Ivrea, Italy

Trattoria Monferrato

Almost directly in the old city center on Via Gariglietti is the Trattoria Monferrato. Having trouble finding a place to eat elsewhere, we found a table free here on a Saturday just by luck.

Trattoria Monferrato – Pork Filet and Potatoes – Ivrea, Italy

Diorite rock near Trattoria Monferrato – Ivrea, Italy

The food here was very good, a cross between home cooking and something made by a chef. The pork filet with gravy was delicious, along with a side of potatoes and some wine the meal was very enjoyable. Knowing the difficulty we had finding a place to eat, we shared our large table for six with a German couple from Frieburg and had a very entertaining conversation about them traveling through Italy on E-Bike.

Erick with Regina and Leo, who we met at the Trattoria Monferrato – Outside Caffe Torino, Piazza San Carlo – Turin, Italy

Our Hotel

We stayed at one hotel for the entire weekend on the north side of town, only to have more convenience leaving on our hikes.

3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy

Hotel 3T

A rather modern hotel with most amenities. The hotel staff can be a bit problematic on the weekends, since we had to ask a few times for towels and toilet paper. So, attention to detail is not a priority.

Hotel 3T – Breakfast pastries and cappuccino – Ivrea, Italy

Another drawback was the restaurant, which was closed for dinner, so we had to go every night, which can be annoying if you had a long and tiring hike. However, the hotel is clean and the bed and pillows were very comfortable, a big plus when you need a good night’s rest.

12 April, 202514 April, 2025

Ivrea, Italy – A Piedmont Weekend

If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena^[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.

Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy

Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy

Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy

Getting There

This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.

Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy

Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy

The Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!

The Town

The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.

Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy

Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy

Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy

Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy

There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.

Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy

Castle Saubauda

A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.

Ivrea Cathedral

Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy

Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy

The Crypt

The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy

Restaurants

Moma

Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.

Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome.

1 April, 2025

Lisbon, Portugal – Additional Sights

On our last couple of days in Lisbon we went across the bowl^[1]I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north. and visited the sights in and around the oldest part of the city, Alfama. Then after that we took the 15E Tram and visited Belém, the most important part of the city with respect to ports and its historical noteriety.

Alfama the Other City

This area includes the Moorish Castle of São Jorge and a number of the overlooks that the area enjoys. Of course, there is also Lisbon Cathedral, which actually looks like it might have been destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake and rebuilt afterwards, but the cathedral and area were largely spared from any damage due to that quake.

Lisbon Cathedral – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal

Perhaps contrary to popular belief, Lisbon and Porto are very busy ALL YEAR. It appears that since RyanAir has a HUB in Porto, everyone and his cousin comes to the area for at least the weekend and many for the entire week. This not doubt puts real stress on Porto, which I can not imagine during the summer when it is really hot and full of tourists.

Lisbon on the other hand is a larger city and can handle more people, however, it has the double wamy of having cruise ships dock as well. So expect the lower parts of Lisbon to be always crowded.

Some walk from the Chiado part of town, where our hotel was located, and across the promenade of R. Augusta, is a totally different part of the city, Alfama. Here you can find the Santa Apolónia train station; in fact, check any train ticket you have that travels to Porto or beyond, and you might notice that it might not be necessary to go all the way to Oriente train station, some of those trains actually start in Santa Apolónia.

Tagus River to the Ocean – Lisbon, Portugal

If you walk the area it is quite steep, so be prepared, or for those less inclined to walk and climb, take an alternate mode of transportation like the 12E Tram, a Tuk-Tuk or the bus.

Church of Our Lady of Grace

The Church of Our Lady of Grace stands on top of one of the hills on this side of the city. It has a beautiful ceiling in the nave, but the altar is rather plain and typical among other churches we have seen.

Church of our Lady of Grace – Nave – Lisbon, Portugal

Adjacent to the church is the Convent of Grace, which is temporarily being used as a modern art museum. However, it is nice just to drop in and see the fascinating Portuguese tiling that adorns the walls.

Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge

The Castle of São Jorge is a large Moorish castle with a commanding view of the overall area of Lisbon. It has a surrounding wall with a central castle and a number of amenities, including a cafe and a restaurant.

Castle of São Jorge – Tagus River – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Tagus River and Bridge of the 25th of April – Lisbon, Portugal

Though you can purchase tickets at the gate, we found the entire staff appeared to be very confused and we got numerous conflicting stories as to what was available, when and where we had to queue in line. We decided to purchase our tickets online, this was actually quicker and more convienent. However, we still had to stand in a line for about an hour, and it isn’t even tourist season, so bring your patience.

Castle of São Jorge – Lisbon Overlook Area – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Points of Interest in Tile – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Old Bronze Cannon – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Interior – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Peacocks – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Entrance to Castle proper – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Interior of Castle – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Interior of Castle, Ramparts – Lisbon, Portugal

Church of Saint Vincent de Fora

The Church of Saint Vincent de Fora is actually pretty far from everything else, but still walkable. From the Church of Grace and some of the observations points, it can be easily seen in the distance, usually with the National Pantheon dome looming in the frame.

Church of St. Vincent de Fora – Dome of the National Pantheon – Lisbon, Portugal

The interior is actually quite spartan and perhaps not worth the effort. However, for a fee you can enter other portions of the grounds like the sacristy, which is known to be far more opulent than the church itself. Having been in so many churches in the past few months, we decided to save our money and continue our travels.

Saint Vincent de Fora – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal

Saint Vincent de Fora – Nave and Interior – Lisbon, Portugal

Belém the Port City

Noted in history as the port from which Vasco da Gama departed for his adventures to India, this port town’s most noticeable attribute is it tower. But there is also the monastery, its cloister and the church, all of which represent fabulous examples of the late Gothic Portuguese Manueline style of architecture.

Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem

When you exit the tram the first thing you notice is the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem across the street. Then the Jerónimos Monastery comes into view, as an extension to these architectural marvels.

Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal

Belém Tower

The Belém Tower, or more precisely, the Tower of Saint Vincent, stands just off shore and was actually a lighthouse in the past.

Restaurants

Rendez Vous

After we visited the Church of St. Vincent we stopped at a small restaurant along the way back called Rendez Vous. They have sort of an eclectic menu which probably does not appeal to everyone, but we found the food and wine very good and would commend the place to anyone looking for something a little different.

Rendez Vour Restaurant – Tuna Salad – Lisbon, Portugal

Rendez Vour Restaurant – Greek Salad, Bread and Fries with Olive Oil and Oregano – Lisbon, Portugal

References[+]

References
↑1	I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north.

30 March, 202530 March, 2025

Sintra, Portugal – Missed Outing

With optimism in the weather and a plan for a good day, we headed to Sintra, Portugal, in the hopes of seeing the Moorish Castle or the National Palace of Pena. Unfortunately, shortly after we arrived our hopes were dashed after we learned the weather had trashed the place and everything in the park was more or less closed due to too many fallen trees, so a missed outing.

How To Get There

By metro it takes about forty-five minutes, leaving Lisbon’s Rossio metro station, a number of blocks from our hotel uphill, to Sintra station about a dozen stops away. This metro line is very busy, so be prepared.

Rossio Station – Platform – Lisbon, Portugal

The Town

Is chaotically laid out and has many narrow passageways and alleys. As with most of Portugal, you get the feeling you must always climb up or down, so be prepared for a lot of steps.

Quinta da Regaleira

The Quinta da Regaleira was another issue. Though we wanted to visit the property, it only has reservations and time slots. Aside from that, the line was so long, since everyone was looking for alternatives due to the closures, that it was quickly out of available times. So we took some photographs and turned around.

Biester Palace

Having failed to come on a day when the majority of the park was open, we settled on the Biester Palace, so that the day and trip was not a total loss.

Biester Palace – Stairs to Palace – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Front – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Back Entrance – Sintra, Portugal

Sintra_13_BiesterPalace_05

Sintra_13_BiesterPalace_06

Not technically a palace, the residence that is called Biester Palace stands prominently and views from the grounds are very nice. The grounds are quiet enough and there is a cafe where one can enjoy a hot or cold drink while enjoying the beautiful flora.

Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal

The house itself is decorated with wood, a majority of its finish and main rooms are adorned with something similar, if not, oak. One comes away with the house having an almost Spartan interior and the chapel appears to be the most adorned room in the house.

Biester Palace – Chapel – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Bathroom – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Scullery – Sintra, Portugal

There is an elevator, though it was never electrified and gives the appearance that it was only used when company was present, or for other civil tasks.

Biester Palace – Elevator Hand Mechanism – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Elevator – Sintra, Portugal

The Ninth Gate

One claim to fame this house has that might appeal to some, it was one of the locations where Roman Polanski shot the film The Ninth Gate. It was during Dean Corso’s travels to visit Victor Fargas that the house and fountain are involved in the movie.

Biester Palace – Ninth Gate Book Prop and Postcards – Sintra, Portugal

Restaurants

In Sintra there are plenty of restaurants and cafes, so you shouldn’t have a difficult time to find a place to eat.

Fatto da Claudio Coelho

A nice place for lunch, service Italian food and other specialties. We each shared the bruschetta and a pasta special, so something simple and somewhat light.

Fatto da Claudio Coelho – Patti Waiting For Lunch – Sintra, Portugal

30 March, 2025

Lisbon, Portugal – Piazza And Park

Our first day consisted mostly of getting to know Lisbon a bit and visiting the main piazza, walking the main avenue and visiting the park. The weather could not have been better and we enjoyed blue skies and mild temperatures for our outing.

The City

Since our hotel was located in Chiado, the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus was not far away. First we visited a few monuments along the riverfront and some artwork, then we headed for the Piazza of Commerce.

Park Of Europe

The city is actually pretty nice and very clean, the city appears to make a concerted effort to maintain the streets and cleaning activities can be seen all around. A few blocks below our hotel was the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus, a gorgeous waterfront walk that takes you to the piazza. On a clear day, it is crowded by tourists and weekenders walking leisurely toward their unknown destinations.

Avenue Ribeira das Naus – Lisbon, Portugal

Piazza of Commerce

The first really large attraction to see in the city is the piazza, which proudly displays the Gate of Rua Augusta as one of its entry points.

Plaza of Commerce – Arch of Rua Augusta – Lisbon, Portugal

This is a very large open space that is surrounded by cafes and restaurants. In the center is the Equestrian Statue of King José I which towers over onlookers. On a bright sunny day it may seem vaguely reminiscent of Venice’s San Marco’s square near the water.

Avenue of Liberation

To get there we walked the Avenue of Liberation, a long and beautiful walk covered by sampietrini (small cobblestone) and dotted by fountains. It is flanked by high-end stores and dealerships and a shoppers paradise no doubt.

Rossio Plaza – Fountain of Anjinhos – Lisbon, Portugal

Avenue of Liberty – Fountain – Lisbon, Portugal

Avenue of Liberty – Trees in bloom – Lisbon, Portugal

Avenue of Liberty – WWI Monument – Lisbon, Portugal

Avenue of Liberty – Marques De Pombal – Lisbon, Portugal

Park Of Eduardo VII

It is a rather large park that rises up out of the bowl that is Lisbon is the Park of Eduardo VII, named after a king of the United Kingdom.

Park of Eduardo VII – Carlos Lopes Pavillion – Lisbon, Portugal

Park of Eduardo VII – Monument of the 25th of April aka “Pirilau” – Lisbon, Portugal

Throughout the city you will find many different modes of transportation. The most ubiquitous form would be the Tuk-Tuk trucks that are all over the main tourist spots. When you venture further out, you will have to look for more mundane forms, like the streetcar or tram, which we have in Turin and find eminently fitted for the job. There are also numerous cable cars sprinkled throughout the city, where the hills dictate a hardy form of transport.

Príncipe Real – Old Tram Line and Stop – Lisbon, Portugal

Calçada da Glória – Old Cable Car – Lisbon, Portugal

Restaurants

Though we have sampled the Portuguese cuisine, we found that there is only so much of it one can eat; so we quickly revert back to the food we love.

La Trattoria

La Trattoria is an Italian restaurant in the San Antonio district of central Lisbon. It is not easy to find and we found ourselves to be practically the only tourists there, the rest were business people who come to enjoy the buffet. It is a contemporary Italian restaurant that offers many staple Italian dishes, as well as the buffet for a fixed price. The food is very good and priced a little higher than you will find in other areas.

La Trattoria Restaurant – Calzone – Lisbon, Portugal

La Trattoria Restaurant – Margherita Pizza – Lisbon, Portugal

25 March, 202525 March, 2025

Porto, Portugal – Another Look

After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.

Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal

São Bento Train Station

The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.

Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal

Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal

Praça da Ribeira

A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.

Praça da Ribeira – Cube Fountain – Porto, Portugal

Luís I Bridge

Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.

Praça da Ribeira – Luis I Bridge – Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge – View of Praça da Ribeira – Porto, Portugal

Vila Nova de Gaia

On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.

Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal

Churches

Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.

Church Of Saint Anthony

A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.

Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal

Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal

Carmo Church

Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.

Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal

The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.

Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal

Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal

Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal

Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal

The Hidden House

Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.

The Museum

The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.

Restaurants and Cafes

The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.

Casa Deolinda

A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.

Praça da Ribeira – Restaurant Deolinda – Porto, Portugal

Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal

Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal

The weather too, did not disappoint.

Fabrica da Nata Cafe

Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.

Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal

Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal

Popina Restaurant

On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.

7 February, 20257 February, 2025

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part One

The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.

Getting There

From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.

The City

Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.

The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.

Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy

Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles

There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.

There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.

The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.

Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy

In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.

The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.

Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy

Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy

Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy

Roman Ruins

Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.

Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy

Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy

Where We Stayed

For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque

We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.

Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic – Lecce, Italy

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy

The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Our Room – Lecce, Italy

On the other side, there was another area with a television, breakfast table and then a bed with a desk for writing.

Restaurants

La Cucina di Mamma Elvira

This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.

The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy

I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy

La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy

Miro Wine And Lounge

We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.

Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy

While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.

Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy

Tranquillo

The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.

We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.

Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy

Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy

23 July, 2023