Lisbon, Portugal – Additional Sights

Lisbon, Portugal – Additional Sights

On our last couple of days in Lisbon we went across the bowl[1]I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north. and visited the sights in and around the oldest part of the city, Alfama. Then after that we took the 15E Tram and visited Belém, the most important part of the city with respect to ports and its historical noteriety.

Alfama the Other City

This area includes the Moorish Castle of São Jorge and a number of the overlooks that the area enjoys. Of course, there is also Lisbon Cathedral, which actually looks like it might have been destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake and rebuilt afterwards, but the cathedral and area were largely spared from any damage due to that quake.

Perhaps contrary to popular belief, Lisbon and Porto are very busy ALL YEAR. It appears that since RyanAir has a HUB in Porto, everyone and his cousin comes to the area for at least the weekend and many for the entire week. This not doubt puts real stress on Porto, which I can not imagine during the summer when it is really hot and full of tourists.

Lisbon on the other hand is a larger city and can handle more people, however, it has the double wamy of having cruise ships dock as well. So expect the lower parts of Lisbon to be always crowded.

Some walk from the Chiado part of town, where our hotel was located, and across the promenade of R. Augusta, is a totally different part of the city, Alfama. Here you can find the Santa Apolónia train station; in fact, check any train ticket you have that travels to Porto or beyond, and you might notice that it might not be necessary to go all the way to Oriente train station, some of those trains actually start in Santa Apolónia.

If you walk the area it is quite steep, so be prepared, or for those less inclined to walk and climb, take an alternate mode of transportation like the 12E Tram, a Tuk-Tuk or the bus.

Church of Our Lady of Grace

The Church of Our Lady of Grace stands on top of one of the hills on this side of the city. It has a beautiful ceiling in the nave, but the altar is rather plain and typical among other churches we have seen.

Adjacent to the church is the Convent of Grace, which is temporarily being used as a modern art museum. However, it is nice just to drop in and see the fascinating Portuguese tiling that adorns the walls.

Castle of São Jorge

The Castle of São Jorge is a large Moorish castle with a commanding view of the overall area of Lisbon. It has a surrounding wall with a central castle and a number of amenities, including a cafe and a restaurant.

Though you can purchase tickets at the gate, we found the entire staff appeared to be very confused and we got numerous conflicting stories as to what was available, when and where we had to queue in line. We decided to purchase our tickets online, this was actually quicker and more convienent. However, we still had to stand in a line for about an hour, and it isn’t even tourist season, so bring your patience.

Church of Saint Vincent de Fora

The Church of Saint Vincent de Fora is actually pretty far from everything else, but still walkable. From the Church of Grace and some of the observations points, it can be easily seen in the distance, usually with the National Pantheon dome looming in the frame.

The interior is actually quite spartan and perhaps not worth the effort. However, for a fee you can enter other portions of the grounds like the sacristy, which is known to be far more opulent than the church itself. Having been in so many churches in the past few months, we decided to save our money and continue our travels.

Belém the Port City

Noted in history as the port from which Vasco da Gama departed for his adventures to India, this port town’s most noticeable attribute is it tower. But there is also the monastery, its cloister and the church, all of which represent fabulous examples of the late Gothic Portuguese Manueline style of architecture.

Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem

When you exit the tram the first thing you notice is the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem across the street. Then the Jerónimos Monastery comes into view, as an extension to these architectural marvels.

Belém Tower

The Belém Tower, or more precisely, the Tower of Saint Vincent, stands just off shore and was actually a lighthouse in the past.

Restaurants

Rendez Vous

After we visited the Church of St. Vincent we stopped at a small restaurant along the way back called Rendez Vous. They have sort of an eclectic menu which probably does not appeal to everyone, but we found the food and wine very good and would commend the place to anyone looking for something a little different.

References

References
1 I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north.

Sintra, Portugal – Missed Outing

Sintra, Portugal – Missed Outing

With optimism in the weather and a plan for a good day, we headed to Sintra, Portugal, in the hopes of seeing the Moorish Castle or the National Palace of Pena. Unfortunately, shortly after we arrived our hopes were dashed after we learned the weather had trashed the place and everything in the park was more or less closed due to too many fallen trees, so a missed outing.

Park – Sintra, Portugal

How To Get There

By metro it takes about forty-five minutes, leaving Lisbon’s Rossio metro station, a number of blocks from our hotel uphill, to Sintra station about a dozen stops away. This metro line is very busy, so be prepared.

The Town

Is chaotically laid out and has many narrow passageways and alleys. As with most of Portugal, you get the feeling you must always climb up or down, so be prepared for a lot of steps.

Quinta da Regaleira

The Quinta da Regaleira was another issue. Though we wanted to visit the property, it only has reservations and time slots. Aside from that, the line was so long, since everyone was looking for alternatives due to the closures, that it was quickly out of available times. So we took some photographs and turned around.

Biester Palace

Having failed to come on a day when the majority of the park was open, we settled on the Biester Palace, so that the day and trip was not a total loss.

Not technically a palace, the residence that is called Biester Palace stands prominently and views from the grounds are very nice. The grounds are quiet enough and there is a cafe where one can enjoy a hot or cold drink while enjoying the beautiful flora.

The house itself is decorated with wood, a majority of its finish and main rooms are adorned with something similar, if not, oak. One comes away with the house having an almost Spartan interior and the chapel appears to be the most adorned room in the house.

There is an elevator, though it was never electrified and gives the appearance that it was only used when company was present, or for other civil tasks.

The Ninth Gate

One claim to fame this house has that might appeal to some,  it was one of the locations where Roman Polanski shot the film The Ninth Gate. It was during Dean Corso’s travels to visit Victor Fargas that the house and fountain are involved in the movie.

Restaurants

In Sintra there are plenty of restaurants and cafes, so you shouldn’t have a difficult time to find a place to eat.

Fatto da Claudio Coelho

A nice place for lunch, service Italian food and other specialties. We each shared the bruschetta and a pasta special, so something simple and somewhat light.

Lisbon, Portugal – Piazza And Park

Lisbon, Portugal – Piazza And Park

Our first day consisted mostly of getting to know Lisbon a bit and visiting the main piazza, walking the main avenue and visiting the park. The weather could not have been better and we enjoyed blue skies and mild temperatures for our outing.

Caldeirinha Dock – Lisbon, Portugal

The City

Since our hotel was located in Chiado, the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus was not far away. First we visited a few monuments along the riverfront and some artwork, then we headed for the Piazza of Commerce.

Park Of Europe

The city is actually pretty nice and very clean, the city appears to make a concerted effort to maintain the streets and cleaning activities can be seen all around. A few blocks below our hotel was the Avenue of Ribeira das Naus, a gorgeous waterfront walk that takes you to the piazza. On a clear day, it is crowded by tourists and weekenders walking leisurely toward their unknown destinations.

Piazza of Commerce

The first really large attraction to see in the city is the piazza, which proudly displays the Gate of Rua Augusta as one of its entry points.

This is a very large open space that is surrounded by cafes and restaurants. In the center is the Equestrian Statue of King José I which towers over onlookers. On a bright sunny day it may seem vaguely reminiscent of Venice’s San Marco’s square near the water.

Avenue of Liberation

To get there we walked the Avenue of Liberation, a long and beautiful walk covered by sampietrini (small cobblestone) and dotted by fountains. It is flanked by high-end stores and dealerships and a shoppers paradise no doubt.

Park Of Eduardo VII

It is a rather large park that rises up out of the bowl that is Lisbon is the Park of Eduardo VII, named after a king of the United Kingdom.

Throughout the city you will find many different modes of transportation. The most ubiquitous form would be the Tuk-Tuk trucks that are all over the main tourist spots. When you venture further out, you will have to look for more mundane forms, like the streetcar or tram, which we have in Turin and find eminently fitted for the job. There are also numerous cable cars sprinkled throughout the city, where the hills dictate a hardy form of transport.

Restaurants

Though we have sampled the Portuguese cuisine, we found that there is only so much of it one can eat; so we quickly revert back to the food we love.

La Trattoria

La Trattoria is an Italian restaurant in the San Antonio district of central Lisbon. It is not easy to find and we found ourselves to be practically the only tourists there, the rest were business people who come to enjoy the buffet. It is a contemporary Italian restaurant that offers many staple Italian dishes, as well as the buffet for a fixed price. The food is very good and priced a little higher than you will find in other areas.

Porto, Portugal – Another Look

Porto, Portugal – Another Look

After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.

Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal

São Bento Train Station

The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.

Praça da Ribeira

A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.

Luís I Bridge

Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the Luís I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.

Vila Nova de Gaia

On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.

Churches

Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.

Church Of Saint Anthony

A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.

Carmo Church

Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.

The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.

The Hidden House

Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.

The Museum

The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.

Restaurants and Cafes

The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.

Casa Deolinda

A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.

The weather too, did not disappoint.

Fabrica da Nata Cafe

Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.

Popina Restaurant

On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.

Popina Restaurant – Entrance – Porto, Portugal

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part One

Lecce, Italy – Florence of the South – Part One

The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.

Getting There

From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.

The City

Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.

The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.

Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles

There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.

There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.

The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.

In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.

The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.

Roman Ruins

Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.

Where We Stayed

For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.

L’Orangerie d’Epoque

We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.

Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.

The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.

On the other side, there was another area with a television, breakfast table and then a bed with a desk for writing.

Restaurants

La Cucina di Mamma Elvira

This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.

The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.

I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.

Miro Wine And Lounge

We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.

While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.

Tranquillo

The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.

We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.

Turin, Italy – Sunday Ride from Turin to Trofarello

Syracuse, Sicily – Ash And Puppets

Syracuse

Syracuse, or Siracusa as you will find it readily marked throughout the island, is one of the first places of historic significance within Italy. It was inhabited in ancient times and finally settled by the Greeks in the early eight century BCE.

The original settlement of the Greeks was on the small island of Ortigia, which still contains several historical and archaeological artifacts from the Greek and Roman periods. See the Ortigia section below for more on that part of the commune and city.

Syracuse is divided into three main parts, Ortigia the island and original Greek settlement, Santa Lucia along the coast and the location of our hotel, and the Neapolis the location of the major Greek and Roman ruins .

If you are at this point wondering what ash and puppets have to do with Sicily, and in particular Syracuse, read further. Otherwise, just rest assured it has everything to do with being on this quaint and wonderful island.

Note: Purchase the Museum and Park Combination Ticket at 18€. If you purchase them separately, it will cost you an extra 8€.  The combination ticket will get you into both, with money left over for a light lunch.

Archaeological Museum

The Archaeological Museum is an impressive collection of ancient, Greek and Roman artifacts dating back to the seventh and eighth centuries.

The museum handles each time period in a sequential fashion, starting with the ancient period of the pre-historic animals and tectonic changes to the area, all the way to the arrival of the Greeks and other colonial powers.

More than one area within the south-eastern coast of Sicily is addressed, as well as other major areas to the north and in the center. In all, the museum provides an excellent historical picture of the island of Sicily.

Archaeological Park

The Archaeological Park, also known as the Neapolis Archaelogical Park of Syracuse, is situated about two and a half kilometers from the island of Ortigia. However, a brisk walk can get you there in about twenty or so minutes.

Tickets may be purchased at the gate, now across the newly blue painted intersection.

If you follow the signs, like we did, you will be taken to group ticket sales, which will still sell you tickets, but its out of the way and you will have to walk through a path of vendors before actually finding the ticket booth.

Latomia or Grottos

When you enter the Neapolis the first thing to visit is the Grotto, or the large quarry where they used to mine stone for building. This is a huge cutout in the surrounding rock face which is about fifty or so meters in height.

It appears to have had several cave-ins in the past, which probably occurred as they were mining the stone. There is evidence of the former inhabitants leaving large columns behind in an attempt to prevent additional cave-ins from occurring. Whether they were successful or not, it is not known, there are no information signs or other historical information provided at the site.

The Greek Theater

Built into the side of the hill, the Greek Theater was originally constructed in the fifth century BCE and later re-constructed several times, including by the Romans. Currently it has been further modified by the contemporary Syracusians for use as a theater again, building a scaffold like theater on top of the pre-existing Greek Theater, in order to have out-door performances and other events.

Behind the theater is a necropolis and grotto, both of which may be visited while visiting the structure.

The Roman Theater

The Roman Theater is found on the way out of the park complex and extends to the exit for some way.

Island Of Ortigia

Ortigia, also known as Ortygia or Citta Vecchia (old city), is an island within the city of Syracuse. It is connected to the mainland and the rest of Syracuse by two bridges, the Umbertino Bridge and the Bridge of Santa Lucia.

At the entrance of the ancient city is the Temple of Apollo. This is the first site anyone will see upon entering the city. Continuing around the temple visitors will automatically ascend the Corso Giacomo Matteotti, or the main street. This is the main shopping street, containing all contemporary brands and shops and will lead one to the Fountain of Diana.

From this traffic-circle; going to the left will take one to the Puppet museum and theater, and the eastern part of the island; going right will take one to the Piazza Duomo and the tourist shopping street, which will also take you to the Syracuse Cathedral.

Puppet Museum

This is an interesting little museum covering the history of a specific heritage of puppet making on the island of Ortigia. Therefore, the puppets are specifically built around tales and folklore of the people of Sicily.

The puppets range in size from small (approx. 20cm in height), all the way to life size. There are many examples of finished products and some of contemporary origin. One display also shows the progression of making a puppet, from the carving stage through final assembly. All very instructive.

Puppet Theater

I was originally hesitant to go the Puppet Theater. But after attending a show, I am glad I had. Not only does the host explain the tale in great detail in English, before it is performed. But the actually acting and enactment of the tale was so compelling, I was captivated, even though I had no idea what was being said at many points during the performance.

The theater space is very personal, with only enough room for about 50-60 people, and they will seat others if needed in the aisle (on the steps). Therefore, if you need to take any medically necessary precautions in cramped quarters, be prepared before you arrive.

Maniace Castle

The Maniace Castle sits at the tip of Ortigia and commands an open view of the Ionian Sea. It is a rather simple structure in function and betrays itself to its many uses down through the ages by its many apparent modifications, including the installation of the lighthouse.

It is however complete with a moat, or in this case, a large drained sunken area where you can wander and only guess what it used to be like back in the day.

Cathedral Of Syracuse

In the center of Ortigia sits the Cathedral of Syracuse, a large and fairly simple structure as cathedrals go, having no real apse, but only central and left naves.

The inside however is impressive and elegant and worth a visit. The outside of the cathedral displays Doric columns of the original Temple of Athena, which stood on this site prior to the building of the edifice.

Our Hotel

Hotel Musciara Resort

For the six nights we stayed in Syracuse, we stayed at the Musciara Resort. This boutique resort is located about a 15 minute walk from Ortigia Island and has its own beach. It is a three-star hotel, but it is expertly appointed and maintained. There are only about a dozen or so rooms, so book early if interested. It is a on the pricey side, so if you are able, use points.

Though we did not use the beach at them, since there was a severe upper level low causing rain for many days, we know a set of two lounge chairs and table will cost 110€/day for those wishing to enjoy the water or work on that tan.

Restaurants

The cuisine of Syracuse is of course based mainly on the sea, so people who love fish will definitely enjoy themselves. There are myriads of fish to choose from, as well as octopus, squid, cuttlefish and assorted shell fish.

Trattoria Archimede

We ate lunch here and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. They have a nice garden where one can enjoy an relaxes lunch away from the hustle and bustle of Piazza Duomo.

The food is typical and simple for Sicilian cuisine. We picked basic items, along with the house wine and had a very nice lunch. The staff were attentive and had a very good grasp of English, so communicating in my broken Italian, although appreciated, was not totally necessary, our waiter spoke and understood Italian, English, French and German.

Ristorante Sicilia In Tavola

A gastronomic pleasure with an unpretentious interior is Ortigia’s In Tavola Ristorante.

Here, as with many other place, they have home-made pasta and spaghetti. However, we ordered fish, swordfish for me and mackerel for Patti. For dessert we had lemon pie and a cannolo, along with an coffee and an aperitif, the a Sicilian Amaro, for 77€ for two people.

Ristorante Cine

Having been eating Italian and SIcilian food for too long, we tried RIstorante Cine and really like it. Though the ingredients are different from what we are used to in Turin and the States (though not unusual), the owner was more than happy to alter any dishes to our tastes. We only ate lunch here and for two, we were able to order an appetizer, primi (vegetable rice) and secondi (chicken or pork or vegetables in white sauce), along with a half carafe of red wine, water, coffee and sambuca for under 30€! It is hard to beat that in a tourist area.

La Tavernetta Da Piero Fuori Ortigia

We ate lunch here on Sunday, the 21st of May, 2023, after visiting the Archaeological Park and when unbeknownst to us Mount Etna was erupting.

After we finished and began walking back to the hotel, we noticed dust getting in our eyes. At the time we had no idea why and surmised that the recent bad storm had brought in dust from Africa, which can occasionally happen. When we read the next day that the Catania Airport had closed due to ash if finally dawned on us that it had been the ash from the volcano all those miles away that was the cause.

Gelateria

If you are looking for gelati in Sicily, do not buy the brightly colored ones, usually they are made of inferior ingredients. Instead, look for the Artiginale label. Though you will pay more for a cone of cup of this, it will be far more worth your while in taste later.

Levante Gelateria

Another good Gelateria, providing excellent artisanal gelati. I was particularly fond of their Amerano and Pistachio flavors.

Fior Di Latte Gelati

Finding very good gelati anywhere in Italy is not a difficult task, here is no exception. It has great artiginale (artisanal) flavors, I ordered the Ortigia and Note Di Sicilia, and Patti ordered the Note Di Sicilia, Mandarin Orange and Dark Chocolate with a hint of orange.

Prague, Czech Republic – Petrin Hill

Prague’s Petrin Hill

Above the city lies Petrin Hill. A walk of a little over a kilometer and about three hundred steps (if you happen to go that way), or you can take the funicular (which we found to be very crowded on the Sunday), so we walked.

The nice thing about walking, aside from someone you don’t know breathing on you in a confined space, is you get to see things along the way the others in the funicular won’t. Plus, if the weather is nice, it’s actually quite a nice way to spend a Sunday morning.

After Petrin Hill, we continued our walk along the river a bit, before going across the Legion Bridge. Here we watched the river boats enter the river lock mechanism, in order to continue their journeys  up the river.

Restaurants

Luka Lu

If you are looking for good food while dining in a very off-beat interior, look no further than Luka Lu’s.  Located on Újezd street in Mala Strana, it is an excellent place for lunch.

Prague – Luka Lu

After our journey through the park and Petrin Hill, the four of us stopped for lunch. The food at Luka Lu’s was very good, service was great and the off-beat interior somewhat of a treat. If you are looking for something different, this might be the place for you. The prices were very reasonable too!

Orta San Giulio, Italy – Promontory for Pilgrims

Across from the Isola di San Giulio sits the town of Orta di San Giulio on a promontory jutting out into the lake towards it. It is mostly known for the hill above it,  or Sacro Monte, which contains the World UNESCO site of Sacro Monte di Orta.

Omegna – Navigazione Lago d’Orta Servizio Pubblico di Linea – Photograph from afar

Last Treats Of Our Time On Lake Orta

We actually took the public ferry twice[1]It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta to Orta San Giulio, in order to more fully explore what this little town had to offer. While there, we visited the Sacro Monte, the main street of town and many of the shops that are open along the way. After our short stay it was time to head back and enjoy what was left of Omegna before returning to Turin.

Orta San Giulio

A typical lake town on Lake Orta is San Giulio. As expected, most activity and the main square, is down by the water and along the shore of the lake. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in Piazza Mario Motta, as well as some others sprinkled along the main street and in some alleys.

Orta San Giulio – Piazza Mario Motta

The main street, which changes its name almost every block, contains all of the shops in town. Here one can find anything from leather goods – made in Italy, to Piedmont agricultural goods and other local products.

Sacro Monte

There are two ways to walk the hill to Sacro Monte,  one can either take a left or a right at the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption on via Caire Albertoletti.

Most people will take the right, it is much shorter and direct, but as we found out, may not be offered on some phone maps[2]I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able. If one takes the left, you will circumnavigate the hill and eventually bring you back around to where you can enter the Sacro Monte from the back parking lot entrance, about a 15-20 minute walk. Of course there is nothing wrong with this, it is just different and longer, but will get you to the same place.

The Sacro Monte has numerous chapels which one can visit, each having its own purpose, according to Catholic religious sources. Of the twenty or so chapels and churches that comprise the site, we visited about a handful.

The Rest of Omegna

Our last couple of days in the town of Omegna were spent mostly relaxing. It rained one day, which really curtailed anything we could do, especially with respect to any hiking we had had in mind. However, we were able to venture out in the evening, after the rain had passed and enjoyed the evening mountain air.

As an afterthought we would have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here; but must also honestly say, it’s not for everyone. Omegna is really laid back and probably accounts for the wild swings we saw in the number of tourists we saw day to day. The weekends are definitely busier, and all of the Italian holidays, so plan your trip accordingly. There is also a definite lack in the assortment of restaurants and we found it difficult to chose, after having been here for a week. It is also a haven for backpackers, so if you find them annoying, you might want to head elsewhere since they are pretty much everywhere enjoying the fine hiking that is available in the area.

Restaurants

Rosticceria Ruyi

The Chinese restaurant, Rosticceria Ruyi on via Giuseppe Mazzini, essentially saved us from culinary hell. After a week of Caprese, Pizza and Pasta, a well cook meal of rice and vegetables was sorely needed and this restaurant has the food at excellent prices (e.g. a dish of Cantonese Rice – 3€). However, be aware at the time of this writing, they open at 18:00 for take-away but were not serving sit down inside the restaurant until 20:15, or 8:15PM in the evening. So plan accordingly!

Omegna – Rosticceria Ruyi – Chinese Restaurant

References

References
1 It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta
2 I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able

Omegna, Italy – Lazy Italian Refuge

Hidden quietly in the north of Italy is the small lake of Orta and the lazy town of Omegna. After two trains and a bus ride, we finally arrived at our new short trip destination. We checked into our three star hotel, the Croce Bianci, perhaps the best centrally located one in the town.

Orta Lake – Panorama from Omegna Shoreline

Because of its small size and lack of glamour, Lake Orta is often overlooked by most overseas travelers, who are more interested in the high impact tourist destinations to check off their bucket lists. It is visited mostly by Italians from Milan, some of whom own weekend homes here, the French, Germans and the occasional Brit. Since there is really not much to see and do on this side of the lake, a short slideshow is perhaps more in order.

We made plans to visit Omegna just to relax and actually do nothing more than just check the lake out. This is definitely a good place to accomplish nothing. However, there are plenty of activities available, from camping, boating, cycling, swimming, hiking and the odd trek to a neighboring town, if one is so inclined. The area is definitely family friendly, even the town has a large and very well equipped playground for them.

The remainder of our trip will visit other parts of the lake and be continued in another entry, so stay tuned. Ciao for now…

Restaurants

Salera  16

A more hip and trendy place is the Salera 16, which caters to the younger crowd with burgers, fries and other handheld items. A good place to stop for something quick.

Al Centrale Bistrot

This little bistrot has excellent food at great prices, though the menu is limited and changes daily. If you are not fussy and adaptable you definitely find a tasty treat here. Their wines by the glass are very good.

Ristorante Il Cavalieri

The first restaurant we visited when we arrived, it offers traditional Italian fare and pizza. It behaves more like a trattoria and gets a lot of local traffic. So an excellent place for reasonably priced authentic Italian food. I found the Vino Sfuso, or bulk house wine, a bit of a disappointment, but it is still drinkable and reasonably priced.

Ristorante Punti D’Vista

A ten minute walk along the Lungolago Gramsci of Omegna on the west bank will bring you to this hotel and restaurant.  Set slightly uphill from the road it has a commanding view of the lake and plenty of outside seating. Reservations are recommended though, as the patio seating fills up quite fast.