This is actually a missing post from our travels in Germany while we were visiting our daughter and her fiancée in August. As we were driving back from our visit in Kronberg im Taunus, we stopped here to visit the wonderful park and spa.
Bad Homburg vor der Höhe, or Bad Homburg before the Taunus, was originally settled in 1180. Until recently in the late 1800s it became widely known as Kaiser Wilhelm II’s summer residence. Wilhelm later erected the spa and built the Erlöserkirche, or Church of the Redeemer for which the place is now recognized.
We divided our time between the Schloßpark and the Kurpark, which features numerous fountains where people collect and drink the local water.
Schloßpark And The White Tower
The Schloßpark, or Castle Gardens, contains many fine flower beds and examples of exotic flora. There is also a large lake that can be enjoyed while taking a leisurely walk around the grounds. The main attraction here is the castle with its white tower and overlook of the grounds and lake. At the time of our visit the tower was closed and we were not able to ascend to see any views of the surrounding town.
The Kurpark
The water here is documented to contain a myriad of basic elements, minerals and other health regenerative ingredients that are ostensibly good for your health. I tasted a few, with my fingers crossed that I wouldn’t get sick (which I didn’t), and can say that the overwhelming tastes are of sulfur dioxide and metallic, most likely from manganese. Though drinking it often could cause issues, depending upon the mineral exposures, an occasional drink now and then probably has no negative impact to the body and may even help in some cases.
The Kurpark, or Spa Park or Garden, has many cafes and paths that one may stroll and enjoy during fine weather. There is a Swan Pond and a stream that runs through the park along which one may find numerous benches were one can stop, sit and just enjoy nature.
The tiny medieval town of Èze-Village sits like a barnacle some fourteen hundred feet above the sea. From this perch you can see miles of coastline. The other part of the commune Èze-sur-Mer sits directly below it, very close to the sea. Historically, it is very old, going way back before Roman times. As I write this, I must confess some incredulity as why anyone would build something back then so high up and away from the sea. The only answer I can come up with is for protection from what I can only conjecture.
Getting There From Nice
To get to Èze-Village (tourism) from Niceyou have several public commuting options, in order of difficulty. You can take the bus directly there. The route was 82 at the time of this writing, but this may change, so check the bus schedule. The easiest was to do this is at the Information Center at the Nice Train Station. Keep in mind that buses depart from different places in the city, so you will either have to walk or make other arrangements, bus or tram perhaps, to get there. If a direct bus route is not to your liking you can also take the SNCF train. These run along the coast and depart from Nice regularly and stop at Èze-sur-Mer. You will then have to take the bus to Èze-Village atop the hill, or, hike up the hill which will take about an hour.
For those who experience motion sickness take care, as any bus ride you take will require the necessary sedatives or medications. The roads are very windy and have numerous switchbacks!
For those who cannot see their own toes and cannot touch them without bending their knees, I would not consider trying to hike up the mountain. It is somewhat treacherous and steep. We used it to return and on the way down we saw an older couple who were going down and having trouble (read shortness of breath, etc). The Nietzsche Footpath is impressive, it is not a real footpath but more like a hiking trail and has probably taken its share of victims over the years. Be smart and do NOT ignore the sign at the start.
Not knowing these options ahead of time, we decided to take the bus directly from Nice. Before it even arrived, there was quite a group of people waiting at the stop. If you do have motion sickness issues you may want to wait for a bus that is not packed or ask someone on the bus once you are on, if you may have a window seat. This is especially true if your bus driver, like ours, must have dreams of driving Formula One race cars! If your bus is as crowded as ours was, you may not be able to look out. So again, be prepared, you’ve been warned!
The Botanical Garden
At the summit of this beautiful little town, sits a Botanical Garden. Called Èze Botanical Garden it displays vegetation that typically grows along the Mediterranean coast. The entry fee for us was 5€ and you pay right there before you go in. It’s probably money well spent since the views are amazing and they obviously use the money to keep the garden up, which I must say is in fantastic condition.
There are also several places in the garden to take photographs.
The Botanical Garden also has an excellent view of the Devil’s Bridge (I know every town and country seems to have this bridge, but it’s pretty cool to see anyway).
The Perfumeries
In Èze-Village there are several Perfumeries where one can make an appointment to actually spend time with a certified Perfumologist and mix their own fragrance. The two major ones that sit next to one another, are Galimard and Fragonard. We chose Galimard, for whatever reason and found the whole process quite intriguing, though completely out of my league (I just do not have the nose for it). The cost at 80€ each can be considered high but includes you walking away with your own scent. Which, if you consider would be in the range of 50€ to 60€, probably is not a bad deal for expert help.
Getting Back To Nice
After all of this, it was time for lunch. We found a nice little place right at the beginning of the village called “Mets Vins Chics“. They serve all kinds of lunch fare and wine at reasonable prices. If you do come to this area, you may notice how closely related the food in this area is to the neighboring Italian cities and towns. With the historical fluidity of borders and commerce, it should not be a surprise and it sure tastes good!
Once finished with our meal, our daughter Ericka wanted to check out Fragonard as well. They have somewhat of a larger showroom but unfortunately no longer mixed nor sold the fragrance she was interested in. So we left there, kind of disappointed.
It was time to head back and I decided to take the Nietzsche Footpath and the SNCF train back to Nice. The path is very steep and one must take care to make sure you do not slip and fall. It is also very long and will take you approximately 40 to 45 minutes just to descend. Then, there is another 5 minutes or so to walk to the train station along the road where the path exits.
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Èze-Village is a very nice, interesting place to visit. There is not much there save the view and the garden, so I would suggest bundling it with something else, like the Perfumery, to make it worth the time and expense.