Across from the Isola di San Giulio sits the town of Orta di San Giulio on a promontory jutting out into the lake towards it. It is mostly known for the hill above it, or Sacro Monte, which contains the World UNESCO site of Sacro Monte di Orta.
Omegna – Navigazione Lago d’Orta Servizio Pubblico di Linea – Photograph from afar
Last Treats Of Our Time On Lake Orta
We actually took the public ferry twice[1]It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta to Orta San Giulio, in order to more fully explore what this little town had to offer. While there, we visited the Sacro Monte, the main street of town and many of the shops that are open along the way. After our short stay it was time to head back and enjoy what was left of Omegna before returning to Turin.
Orta San Giulio
A typical lake town on Lake Orta is San Giulio. As expected, most activity and the main square, is down by the water and along the shore of the lake. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in Piazza Mario Motta, as well as some others sprinkled along the main street and in some alleys.
Orta San Giulio – Piazza Mario Motta
The main street, which changes its name almost every block, contains all of the shops in town. Here one can find anything from leather goods – made in Italy, to Piedmont agricultural goods and other local products.
San Giulio – Sculpture of San Francis of Assissi
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley
San Giulio – Side Alley – No Head Room
San Giulio – Typical Restaurant or Enoteca Sign
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio – Municipal Gardens
San Giulio
San Giulio – Sign Painted on Wall
San Giulio – Main Street
Sacro Monte
There are two ways to walk the hill to Sacro Monte, one can either take a left or a right at the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption on via Caire Albertoletti.
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti – Toward Sacro Monte
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti to Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – The Town from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Overview from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Isola di San Giulio from Via Palma
Most people will take the right, it is much shorter and direct, but as we found out, may not be offered on some phone maps[2]I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able. If one takes the left, you will circumnavigate the hill and eventually bring you back around to where you can enter the Sacro Monte from the back parking lot entrance, about a 15-20 minute walk. Of course there is nothing wrong with this, it is just different and longer, but will get you to the same place.
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Interlinking Paths to each Chapel
The Sacro Monte has numerous chapels which one can visit, each having its own purpose, according to Catholic religious sources. Of the twenty or so chapels and churches that comprise the site, we visited about a handful.
Sacro Monte – The Pozzo or Font
Sacro Monte – Chapel
Sacro Monte – Hand Directing Toward Church Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Chapel Eleven
Sacro Monte – Main Entrance
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Chapel Ten
Sacro Monte – Isola di San Giulio
Sacro Monte – Church of Saint Cyricus and the Cemetery
The Rest of Omegna
Our last couple of days in the town of Omegna were spent mostly relaxing. It rained one day, which really curtailed anything we could do, especially with respect to any hiking we had had in mind. However, we were able to venture out in the evening, after the rain had passed and enjoyed the evening mountain air.
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Via Giuseppe Mazzini
Omegna – Side Street at Night
Omegna – Piazza XXIV April – Commune Building
Omegna – Nigoglia Stream at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
Omegna – Lake at Night
As an afterthought we would have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here; but must also honestly say, it’s not for everyone. Omegna is really laid back and probably accounts for the wild swings we saw in the number of tourists we saw day to day. The weekends are definitely busier, and all of the Italian holidays, so plan your trip accordingly. There is also a definite lack in the assortment of restaurants and we found it difficult to chose, after having been here for a week. It is also a haven for backpackers, so if you find them annoying, you might want to head elsewhere since they are pretty much everywhere enjoying the fine hiking that is available in the area.
Restaurants
Rosticceria Ruyi
The Chinese restaurant, Rosticceria Ruyi on via Giuseppe Mazzini, essentially saved us from culinary hell. After a week of Caprese, Pizza and Pasta, a well cook meal of rice and vegetables was sorely needed and this restaurant has the food at excellent prices (e.g. a dish of Cantonese Rice – 3€). However, be aware at the time of this writing, they open at 18:00 for take-away but were not serving sit down inside the restaurant until 20:15, or 8:15PM in the evening. So plan accordingly!
Hidden quietly in the north of Italy is the small lake of Orta and the lazy town of Omegna. After two trains and a bus ride, we finally arrived at our new short trip destination. We checked into our three star hotel, the Croce Bianci, perhaps the best centrally located one in the town.
Orta Lake – Panorama from Omegna Shoreline
Because of its small size and lack of glamour, Lake Orta is often overlooked by most overseas travelers, who are more interested in the high impact tourist destinations to check off their bucket lists. It is visited mostly by Italians from Milan, some of whom own weekend homes here, the French, Germans and the occasional Brit. Since there is really not much to see and do on this side of the lake, a short slideshow is perhaps more in order.
Omegna – Nigoglia Square
Omegna – Lake Orta by the bridge
Omegna – The Hotel Croce Bianca (red building)
Omegna – The Strona
Omegna – Caduti Monument
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Caduti Monument and Hotel Croce Bianci – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Caduti Monument
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Lake Orta
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci – Flowers
Omegna – Lungolago Gramsci
Omegna – Lake Orta at night
Omegna – Lake Orta
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
We made plans to visit Omegna just to relax and actually do nothing more than just check the lake out. This is definitely a good place to accomplish nothing. However, there are plenty of activities available, from camping, boating, cycling, swimming, hiking and the odd trek to a neighboring town, if one is so inclined. The area is definitely family friendly, even the town has a large and very well equipped playground for them.
The remainder of our trip will visit other parts of the lake and be continued in another entry, so stay tuned. Ciao for now…
Restaurants
Salera 16
A more hip and trendy place is the Salera 16, which caters to the younger crowd with burgers, fries and other handheld items. A good place to stop for something quick.
Omegna – Estiva: Fruit Salad with Prosciutto, Mozarella and Pesto – Salera 16
Omegna – Caesar Salad with Chicken and shaved Parmesan – Salera 16
Al Centrale Bistrot
This little bistrot has excellent food at great prices, though the menu is limited and changes daily. If you are not fussy and adaptable you definitely find a tasty treat here. Their wines by the glass are very good.
Omegna – Pasta Bolognese and Insalata Mista – Al Centrale Bistrot
Omegna – Ravioli with Pesto – Al Centrale Bistrot
Ristorante Il Cavalieri
The first restaurant we visited when we arrived, it offers traditional Italian fare and pizza. It behaves more like a trattoria and gets a lot of local traffic. So an excellent place for reasonably priced authentic Italian food. I found the Vino Sfuso, or bulk house wine, a bit of a disappointment, but it is still drinkable and reasonably priced.
Omegna – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Ravioli and side salad – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Chicken Cutlet Milano Style with Fries – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Tartufo – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Ristorante Punti D’Vista
A ten minute walk along the Lungolago Gramsci of Omegna on the west bank will bring you to this hotel and restaurant. Set slightly uphill from the road it has a commanding view of the lake and plenty of outside seating. Reservations are recommended though, as the patio seating fills up quite fast.
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Rigatoni with olive oil, tomatoes and fried vegetables – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Cheese Cake with currants, Coffee and Sambuca – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
We had little slated for our last full day in Ljubljana, but we did want to see the cathedral and Tivoli Park, both of which we had missed in our former romps around town. I guess that is all that remains of our stay here, which we thoroughly and unexpectedly enjoyed.
The Roman Wall
Back in Roman times the settlement which became this city was called Emona. In order to protect Emona, the Romans built a wall around it, like most other Roman towns of that era.
Ljubljana – Park near Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman or Emona Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall
This wall was reconstructed in the early nineteenth century, along with a pyramidal feature for one of its gates.
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
Ljubljana – Old Roman Wall and Plecnik’s 1938 Pyramid
The Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Tickets For Two
The Ljubljana Cathedral is not always open to the public, so you have to check the side door for the times. There is a 2€ fee per person to see the cathedral, so be prepared pay, if you want a peek.
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Bronze Door
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral – Old Papel Seal
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Ljubljana – Ljubljana Cathedral
Tivoli Park
Tivoli Park, also known as Tivoli City Park, is pretty large and covers a huge hill that is some four hundred meters in height, so be prepared for some serious walking. For the less ambitious, you may walk around its edges and have just as much fun, without getting tired or sweaty.
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
We went on a Sunday, so it was pretty busy with native Ljubljanians and Sloveniens enjoying the cafes and park facilities.
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park Entrance
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
Ljubljana – Tivoli Park
Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Graffiti Block, also known as the Metelkova Art Museum, is about a block housing a collection of graffiti and alternative art works for public viewing. Since, “A picture is worth a thousand words“, I will let my photographs speak for themselves.
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Ljubljana – Graffiti Block
Restaurants
Foculus Restaurant
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant
Apparently a trendy little pizzeria on the edge of the city not far from the park, but far enough from the center and river so that it is not much affected by all the crowds. We stopped for lunch and something light, so we both ordered salads, which were very good. The prices were very reasonable too!
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant – Chicken Salad
Ljubljana – Foculus Restaurant – Mixed Salad
Epilog
Well that was our trip to Slovenia. I admitted to my wife many times that I didn’t expect much, but was very pleasantly surprised. If you ever get a chance to go, please do so. The people in the city are very nice and almost all speak English very well, so don’t let your lack of language skills deter you, go!
Ljubljana – Mini Dragon – Try and find them all
Some remaining photographs of this great city, enjoy…
Ljubljana – Another Bronze
Ljubljana – Patti enjoying an iced coffee
Ljubljana – Galleria Building
Ljubljana – City Flowers in the Grass – No Herbicides Here!
Ljubljana – Very old section of town, formerly Emona
At the base of the Southern Limestone Alps[1]They are additionally known as the Julian Alps., or Karawanken Mountains, sits the small town and lake of Bled . It is almost a must see place to go on a day trip from Ljubljana, especially if you have enough time. Since we have the time, we usually overbook our stays at places that are totally unknown to us. For Ljubljana specifically, and Slovenia in general, we were happy that we did, since it afforded us a day trip such as the one to Bled. Slovenia really is a great place to visit!
Bled – entrance from parking lot – panorama
Lake Bled – Getting There
To get to the lake you must travel northwest from Ljubljana, there is the E61 that can be taken by car or bus. The trip normally takes forty-five minutes by car, and up to an hour and a quarter by bus, but can take longer if there is an accident or construction on the highway. Upon the suggestion of the information booth by the Triple Bridge we took the bus, even though we now think the train may be faster. The bus is packed, so if you are worried about Covid-19, and you should, you should be prepared to wear you FFp2 mask.
It should be noted, the bus takes two different routes going to and coming from the lake, each taking about the same time. There is of course the train, which may actually take less time gong to and fromm Bled, but then you have about a twenty or so minute walk from the town of Bled Train Station to the lake. The bus on the other hand goes all the way to the lake, even though we chose to get off at the Blen Union station.
Bus Ride to Bled – Starting out
Bus Ride to Bled – Mountains along the way
Bus Ride to Bled – Sign for Bled
Bled – Upravna enota Radovljica
Lake Bled – The Trail
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
There is an excellent trail that totally circumnavigates the lake, going through several tourist beach and cafe points, any one of which you can take a pause in your walk to get refreshed.
Here is a slideshow of our great afternoon walking the lake shore trail, enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery.
Bled – Bled Castle
Bled – entrance walkway
Bled – Bled Castle
Bled – the Julian Alps in the distance
Bled – Lake Bled is surrounded by the Julian Alps
Bled – trail post
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – how the water runs through the rocks
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – the lake water is bluish green
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – the beautiful lake Bled
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – walking the trail
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Blad Castle
Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island
Bled – Slovenia’s only island
Bled – cyan colored water
Bled – cyan colored water
Bled – walking the trail
Bled – road tunnel
Bled – the moss fountain
Restaurants
Hotel Starkl Restaurant
Around 12:30 or so we stopped about three quarters of the way, going anti-clockwise around the lake, at the restaurant Hotel Starkl. It is best to get to any European tourist restaurant thirty to forty-five minutes in advance, because at one o’clock they fill up quickly. Here we purchased simple salads and enough wine and water to enjoy the fabulous weather.
Usually when visiting one of Italy’s best kept secret cities, you would think that there wouldn’t be much to do for the outdoors enthusiast. But nothing could be further from the truth. Turin has a wealth of parks sprinkled throughout the city. Most are for casual pleasure, walking the dog, strolling the baby carriage or just a good jog.
The view from the Borgo Po, Corso Moncalieri, Turin
However, just a short mile and a quarter walk from our apartment in Turin is the entrance to Giacomo Leopardi Park. Here one can find a real hiking adventure, if you are so inclined.
Giacomo Leopardi Park
Once accessible via car, it is now only open to the public via the pedestrian access and can be entered by casual walkers, hikers and any cyclists willing to dare its steep slopes.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
The park still maintains a roadway that may be walked, but for the more adventurous, there are several hiking trails that take a more direct route upwards.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – The Trails
Our initial thoughts were to make the entire hike up to Mount Eremo, visiting the Parco di San Vito along the way. However, Alltrails Pro, the portable phone application we use, gives only one value, instead of a range, for the length of time it might take you to reach your goal, which of course may not fit into your body’s aerobic or fitness calculus. So you may want to add additional time to any of the ‘moderated accepted hikes’, in order to account for any stops, water or photography breaks.
Hiking the road
Some stairs to hike
The hiking trail is well signed
Patti on the trail
Again, the trail is well signed
The link between this park and the next one, Parco di San Vito, entails some roads and real hiking.
San Vito Park
You will find the Parco di San Vito about a third of the way up to the Colle della Maddalena, or Mount Maddalena.
San Vito Park
A view of the city from San Vito Park
One of the amazing things about Turin, and Italy in general, is there willingness to not poison everything. Unlike America, they do not run out and get a can of weed killer or herbicide when something springs up that does not look like a sanctioned type of grass. Hence, the fields at the park actually have many types of wild flowers, bees and crickets! So do not expect dead silence when hiking here, like you would in most city parks in America.
After this park, we hiked a bit further up the mountain towards a small picnic area located on the map. Our plans after two hours of hiking modified somewhat, since at this point we were only halfway to our original destination.
The trail above San Vito
Patti hiking the trail above San Vito
Patti on the trail above San Vito, wild flowers are everywhere
The trails up through this stretch of woods were a bit more undeveloped and natural, the floor of the woods covered with different flowers.
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flower at picnic area Bert
Flowers in picnic area Bert
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
The hike through the woods continued for about another three quarters of a mile or so, and we were thinking of modifying our plans for the day.
Picnic Area Bert
After coming off the trail and turning around a bit on Quadriva Raby, you may head back and get back on the trail from Cascina Natura Pro Natura. A small picnic area on the side of the hill with a small field, some facilities if you are inclined and a picnic bench for lunch, or just a drink of water and a cliff bar.
Hiking the road up to Cascina Bert
The road up to the picnic area
Picnic area – Pro Natura Torino – Cascina Bert
The trail head down is located just to the left of that last picnic bench above. A marker can be found on the tree. However, if you miss this, there are signs and a map by the parking lot and buildings that are over to the right.
Bird Song and Fifteen Seconds of Calm
This is actually an amazing hike and you will find yourself stopping frequently just to enjoy the quiet and being out of the city for some respite.
Patti on a city stairwell in the Borgo Po area
Upon returning to Turin after about three and a half hours of hiking bliss, we took some shortcuts and discovered to what extreme Turin is willing to let some things go natural. Just goes to show, without humans around just how fast nature is willing to reassert itself.
For those wanting and willing to see the Sacra di San Michele and experience this great church and its views, one must hike the three or so kilometers and one kilometer ascent in order to really enjoy what the builders had accomplished here. Not only is it a feat of Middle-Ages engineering and stubbornness, its shear existence defies rationality, and so may I add hiking up to it. Well maybe not exactly, but you should be prepared. We saw many individuals when we were descending wearing the wrong type of shoes, etc. More on that later.
Sant’ Ambrogio – Getting There
A thirty three minute train ride from Turin’s train station Porta Nuova will get you to Sant’ Ambrogio and the beginning of your climb. Let me add, before we begin, that you may drive up to the church; but then you would be among the majority of people there and just mere tourists.
The train station – San Ambrogio
The train station is spartan and leaves you off on track one to enter this small town or hamlet directly. Returning you will have to find the stairwell to the right of the train station and walk under the tracks.
First sight of Sacra di San Michele from train station – Sant Ambrogio
Welcome Sign – Sant Ambrogio
Hiking Trail Signs – Sant Ambrogio
Sacra di San Michele from inside the town – Sant Ambrogio
A sleepy town on Pasquetta (day after Easter) – Sant Ambrogio
A view from the Church of Saint Giovanni Vincenzo – Sant Ambrogio
The trail starts and the Church of Saint Roch – Sant Ambrogio
Follow the signs for two hours – Sant Ambrogio
We arrived the day after Easter Sunday, or as the remembrance in Italy has it for Roman Catholics, Pasquetta [1]Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it … Continue reading The town was more or less empty, so our ideas about a quick climb up and back and an early lunch soon vanished.
On the way up, the rooftops of the town – Sant Ambrogio
The walk through the town was short and without incident, in fact, we were mostly accompanied by the individuals who left the train with us, residents of the town having already left for the long weekend or enjoying amenities inside and their extra day off.
Parco Naturale Orsiera – Sentiero Trail 502
Using the Sentiero Trail 502, or TOS 502, we quickly left the town and started our ascent up the most north-eastern mountain or hill of the Parco Naturale Orsiera. An almost one kilometer ascent for three kilometers with slopes ranging in steepness of three to twenty percent, and I would conjecture most were in the double digits.
This 3 km rises 1000 meters and takes about 1 and a half to 2 hours to hike – Trail Map
The trail was for the most part cobbled with round and larger stones, some which have a remarkable green color, are shiny and very slippery. Proper shoes are important, though it is possible to navigate the trail with tennis shoes or sneakers.
A welcoming sign, this is the right trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The Trail has Cobble and other Stones all the way up – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti navigating the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti on another turn – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio Panorama – Sentiero Trail 502
At a higher elevation, overview of Sant Ambrogio – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio from Sentiero Trail 502
Patti still climbing – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Coming to first ending of trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Upon exiting the trail at a collection of houses, and an interim point in the hike, you will find a large commemorative stone.
Commemoration Wheel 2000 – Sentiero Trail 502
Then you will make a hairpin turn and look up, only to see that your hike up is STILL NOT OVER!
Still a long way up to go – Sentiero Trail 502
Checking the signs indicate approximately another kilometer to hike, which took us about twenty minutes.
Trail Sign, another .8 km to go – Sentiero Trail 502
After the last more modest climb you will walk onto a road, where all the other tourists are walking into from the parking lot. The attraction has a large sign explaining the layout of the church and its grounds.
Sign at entry to Sacra di San Michele
Sacra di San Michele
Once near the church of Sacra di San Michele, the magnificent views are apparent. With its perch high on a rocky crag, the church has a commanding view of the valley below.
Panorama before church at end of trail
Walking up to the church you will find a small building to the right that sells postcards, other tourist paraphernalia and entrance tickets. Once purchased, a turnstile to the left has a QR code reader that will let you enter, then you must start climbing stairs, an unwelcome sign after our long journey.
Tickets for Two – Sacra di San Michele – Sant Ambrogio
Stairs inside – Sacra di San Michele
More stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Erick with Covid mask on ascending more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Again more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
The remainder of our visit consisted of just enjoying the church and the beautiful views. My wife chose this day because the weather promised to be wonderful, we were not disappointed, it was sunny and in the low 60°s Fahrenheit, perfect for hiking.
Finally, the entry – Sacra di San Michele
Mosaics on walls – Sacra di San Michele
The main altar – Sacra di San Michele
Commemoration of the Crucifixion – Sacra di San Michele
Inside the church – Sacra di San Michele
Portraits – Sacra di San Michele
Large Fresco – Sacra di San Michele
Altar – Sacra di San Michele
Spectacular views, by the entrance of the church doors – Sacra di San Michele
Erick and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The end of the valley and a view toward Turin
The Cottian Alps and the valley floor looking towards Susa, taken by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
Patti and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The Susa Valley and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Looking across the valley from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
The ruins and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
More ruins and alpine foothills from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Leaving we took our last look up at the great church and descended along the more difficult trail, due to its increase in steepness, it promised to cut some time off our descent, which it did.
Going down is a bit more treacherous and only 2.5 km, but still takes about 1 and a half hours to hike – Trail Map
However, the first part of this trail is VERY steep and not for anyone ill-prepared or wearing the wrong hiking apparel, so caution! We were actually having second thoughts until we realized it was more difficult to go back up, then to press on and continue downward.
A view of the church descending – Sacra di San Michele
We arrived back in Sant’ Ambrogio almost five hours later, hungry and fairly tired from our experience. Once on the train, we relaxed and started to compare which part of our legs hurt more. However, we were both happy we were able to meet our sacred vertical pilgrimage with a great sense of accomplishment. It was our first big hike of the season, hopefully not our last and if anyone is thinking of doing this or a similar hike, keep the following in mind, we will next time.
Prepare for your hike, research the route and understand how technical it is
Bring a water bottle, the trail has two or three places to refill, this is especially important
Bring lunch or something to eat, there is nothing above except some vending by the ticket counter, but do not count on that
Wear the correct clothing (light and layered) and shoes, hiking shoes would be preferred but thick soled tennis shoes or sneakers will do
Pace yourself, unless you are young be mindful of your body and do not over-exert, you do not want to get into medical trouble on that trail, it will take some time for them to get to you
Go in good weather, unless it’s your intent as an experienced hikers not to
And last but not least.., enjoy yourself, there are amazing things to see and hear on the trail, the flowers and birds are in abundance.
Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it empty.
It is possible to hike to the summit of Mount Vesuvius. For a modest fee you can put on your best walking of hiking shoes and climb to the summit from within a few hundred meters in elevation. On a clear day, it is totally worth it, not only for the views of Naples but also for that curious look at what might be going on inside the crater. Our guide Federica, from MindTheNap Tours, along with Pasquale our driver took us there for the day. She has excellent knowledge of the volcano, its history and all its eruptions, as well as other off beat information regarding the consecration of the volcano by the church.
The Climb
The ascent is not very rigorous, there are plenty of old people walking up and they do hand out walking sticks, if you are so inclined. Now, on to the slide show for which I have not captioned anything, since most should be self explanatory.
Patti and Federica walking behind me
Patti and Federica
Erick
Erick and Patti on top of Vesuvius
A few short videos while we were on the way up and at the summit. The audio is probably terrible, it was very windy and cold that day.
The trip up, around the crater wall and back down took us a little over an hour. But it can be completed faster, we just happened to take our time. The drive there on the other hand depends on traffic, which as you can imagine can be problematic in Naples.
Wineries
At the foot of Mount Vesuvius are many wineries, which grew certain types of varietals, aglianico, caprettone and piedrosso, that work well with the volcanic soils.
Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery Russo Family
After our ascent up the mountain we spent a few hours in the afternoon having a tour, wine tasting and lunch at the Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery of the Russo Family. We tasted the following before and during our lunch.
– Rosè Sparkling Wine (100% aglianico grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOP (100% caprettone grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Rosato DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Riserva (80% piedirosso e 20% aglianico grapes)
This is actually a missing post from our travels in Germany while we were visiting our daughter and her fiancée in August. As we were driving back from our visit in Kronberg im Taunus, we stopped here to visit the wonderful park and spa.
Schloß Bad Homburg
Bad Homburg vor der Höhe, or Bad Homburg before the Taunus, was originally settled in 1180. Until recently in the late 1800s it became widely known as Kaiser Wilhelm II’s summer residence. Wilhelm later erected the spa and built the Erlöserkirche, or Church of the Redeemer for which the place is now recognized.
Erlöserkirche Schloßpark – Bad Homburg – 25th of August 2021
We divided our time between the Schloßpark and the Kurpark, which features numerous fountains where people collect and drink the local water.
Schloßpark And The White Tower
The Schloßpark, or Castle Gardens, contains many fine flower beds and examples of exotic flora. There is also a large lake that can be enjoyed while taking a leisurely walk around the grounds. The main attraction here is the castle with its white tower and overlook of the grounds and lake. At the time of our visit the tower was closed and we were not able to ascend to see any views of the surrounding town.
Schloß Gardens – Bad Homburg – 25th of August 2021
The White Tower – Bad Homburg – 25th of August 2021
The Kurpark
The water here is documented to contain a myriad of basic elements, minerals and other health regenerative ingredients that are ostensibly good for your health. I tasted a few, with my fingers crossed that I wouldn’t get sick (which I didn’t), and can say that the overwhelming tastes are of sulfur dioxide and metallic, most likely from manganese. Though drinking it often could cause issues, depending upon the mineral exposures, an occasional drink now and then probably has no negative impact to the body and may even help in some cases.
Kaiserbrunnen, Kurpark – Bad Homburg – 25th of August, 2021
The Kurpark, or Spa Park or Garden, has many cafes and paths that one may stroll and enjoy during fine weather. There is a Swan Pond and a stream that runs through the park along which one may find numerous benches were one can stop, sit and just enjoy nature.
The tiny medieval town of Èze-Village sits like a barnacle some fourteen hundred feet above the sea. From this perch you can see miles of coastline. The other part of the commune Èze-sur-Mer sits directly below it, very close to the sea. Historically, it is very old, going way back before Roman times. As I write this, I must confess some incredulity as why anyone would build something back then so high up and away from the sea. The only answer I can come up with is for protection from what I can only conjecture.
Getting There From Nice
To get to Èze-Village (tourism) from Niceyou have several public commuting options, in order of difficulty. You can take the bus directly there. The route was 82 at the time of this writing, but this may change, so check the bus schedule. The easiest was to do this is at the Information Center at the Nice Train Station. Keep in mind that buses depart from different places in the city, so you will either have to walk or make other arrangements, bus or tram perhaps, to get there. If a direct bus route is not to your liking you can also take the SNCF train. These run along the coast and depart from Nice regularly and stop at Èze-sur-Mer. You will then have to take the bus to Èze-Village atop the hill, or, hike up the hill which will take about an hour.
Èze-Village – From the Bus Stop
For those who experience motion sickness take care, as any bus ride you take will require the necessary sedatives or medications. The roads are very windy and have numerous switchbacks!
The Nietzsche Footpath – Length Over 2km
For those who cannot see their own toes and cannot touch them without bending their knees, I would not consider trying to hike up the mountain. It is somewhat treacherous and steep. We used it to return and on the way down we saw an older couple who were going down and having trouble (read shortness of breath, etc). The Nietzsche Footpath is impressive, it is not a real footpath but more like a hiking trail and has probably taken its share of victims over the years. Be smart and do NOT ignore the sign at the start.
Road Up To Èze-Village – The Start
Entering Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Èze-Village
Not knowing these options ahead of time, we decided to take the bus directly from Nice. Before it even arrived, there was quite a group of people waiting at the stop. If you do have motion sickness issues you may want to wait for a bus that is not packed or ask someone on the bus once you are on, if you may have a window seat. This is especially true if your bus driver, like ours, must have dreams of driving Formula One race cars! If your bus is as crowded as ours was, you may not be able to look out. So again, be prepared, you’ve been warned!
The Botanical Garden
Èze-Village – Overview from Botanical Garden
At the summit of this beautiful little town, sits a Botanical Garden. Called Èze Botanical Garden it displays vegetation that typically grows along the Mediterranean coast. The entry fee for us was 5€ and you pay right there before you go in. It’s probably money well spent since the views are amazing and they obviously use the money to keep the garden up, which I must say is in fantastic condition.
Patti and Erick – Botanical Garden
Our Daughter Ericka – Botanical Garden
There are also several places in the garden to take photographs.
Devil’s Bridge Plaque – Botanical Garden
Devil’s Bridge – Botanical Garden
The Botanical Garden also has an excellent view of the Devil’s Bridge (I know every town and country seems to have this bridge, but it’s pretty cool to see anyway).
The Perfumeries
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Visitor Center Display
Galimard Perfumery – Cologne/Perfume Mixing Station
In Èze-Village there are several Perfumeries where one can make an appointment to actually spend time with a certified Perfumologist and mix their own fragrance. The two major ones that sit next to one another, are Galimard and Fragonard. We chose Galimard, for whatever reason and found the whole process quite intriguing, though completely out of my league (I just do not have the nose for it). The cost at 80€ each can be considered high but includes you walking away with your own scent. Which, if you consider would be in the range of 50€ to 60€, probably is not a bad deal for expert help.
Getting Back To Nice
Tagliatelle al Ragu, Salad and Wine – YUM!
After all of this, it was time for lunch. We found a nice little place right at the beginning of the village called “Mets Vins Chics“. They serve all kinds of lunch fare and wine at reasonable prices. If you do come to this area, you may notice how closely related the food in this area is to the neighboring Italian cities and towns. With the historical fluidity of borders and commerce, it should not be a surprise and it sure tastes good!
Once finished with our meal, our daughter Ericka wanted to check out Fragonard as well. They have somewhat of a larger showroom but unfortunately no longer mixed nor sold the fragrance she was interested in. So we left there, kind of disappointed.
The Nietzsche Footpath – Treacherous, like his Philosophy
It was time to head back and I decided to take the Nietzsche Footpath and the SNCF train back to Nice. The path is very steep and one must take care to make sure you do not slip and fall. It is also very long and will take you approximately 40 to 45 minutes just to descend. Then, there is another 5 minutes or so to walk to the train station along the road where the path exits.
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Views From The Village – Garden Below
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Views From The Village
The Nietzsche Footpath – View
The Nietzsche Footpath – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
Views From The Village – Garden Below
Parc Phoenix – Views
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Ericka Was Not Having Fun
Parc Phoenix – Views
The Nietzsche Footpath – Starts Out Innocent Enough
Views From The Village
Parc Phoenix – Map
Parc Phoenix – Views
Èze-Village is a very nice, interesting place to visit. There is not much there save the view and the garden, so I would suggest bundling it with something else, like the Perfumery, to make it worth the time and expense.
