After a dismal start and a break in the weather, we were able to explore the city of Porto a bit more rigorously. There are probably only a handful of streets that do not go up or down, so have your trekking legs prepared.
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
São Bento Train Station
The inner city train station, and perhaps the original Porto Central Station, is the São Bento Train Station. Known for its tiled waiting hall, it is known now more for its artwork than for its use as a primary station; Campahnã having eclipsed it as the main train station now. Unfortunately, it is beset by a very large public works project outside at the moment, so access is through side entrances for the most part.
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Entry Hall – Porto, Portugal
Sao Bento Train Station – Tracks – Porto, Portugal
Praça da Ribeira
A scenic spot on the River Duoro in the center of the old city is the Praça da Ribeira. It has several pieces of art to enjoy and the Cube Fountain, which is surrounded by a myriad of restaurants and cafe tents. It is along the Cias de Ribeira or promenade where you can enjoy a nice walk, listen to music or just enjoy the river.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РCube Fountain РPorto, Portugal
LuÃs I Bridge
Between the Praça da Ribeira, RibeiraDoPorto and the other side of the river, or Vila Nova de Gaia, is the LuÃs I Bridge, which was originally proposed by Gustave Eiffel, even though he did not win the competition to build it.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РLuis I Bridge РPorto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Douro River Upstream – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge – Vila Nova de Gaia – Porto, Portugal
Luis I Bridge РView of Pra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Pra̤a da Ribeira РLuis I Bridge РPorto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia
On the other side of the river is the area or civil parish of Vila Nova de Gaia. This prefecture or parish you can find many of the great port wine houses, such as Sandeman, Kopke and Warres to name a few. It also has a very nice river side promenade that can be enjoyed on a nice sunny day.
Vila Nova de Gaia РPra̤a da Ribeira РPorto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Sandeman Port – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Vila Nova de Gaia – Duoro River – Porto, Portugal
Churches
Our visit here continues with a few other churches, which we were unable to see the previous day.
Church Of Saint Anthony
A regular church by any measure, the church of St. Anthony does have a remarkable gilded altar, which would be the prize of any structure.
Church of Saint Anthony – Outside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Anthony – Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church
Best known for its Portuguese tiled exterior, the Carmo Church sits on top of the hill next to the Lion Fountain and its park. The tiling on the outside is unfortunately covered with a gauze, no doubt to protect the surface of the tiles from prolonged exposure to the elements, so taking photographs at a distance is probably best.
Tickets For Two – Carmo Church – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Entrance with Church of the Carmelitas on the left – Porto, Portugal
The interior is nice and in the baroque style of churches. Its other claim to fame are the side altars depicting Christ in one form of tribulation or another.
Carmo Church – Nave from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Organ – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Nave and Organ from above – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Side Altar – Porto, Portugal
The Hidden House
Between the Carmo Church and the Church of the Carmelites is the Hidden House. A four story structure built between the two to prevent the appearance of impropriety, though it has had other uses throughout its 250 years.
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – The Hidden House – Porto, Portugal
The Museum
The museum of the Carmo Church houses the typical treasure and other important items used and passed down by the church through the years. There are some things of note, like the collection of hands, as well as other peculiar things that have to be seen to believe.
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Carmo Church – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
The restaurants and cafes in Porto come in clusters, perhaps due to it being a tourist hot spot. They seem to line most of the more important streets and more heavily trafficked areas.
Casa Deolinda
A good spot for lunch would be the Casa Deolinda right within the Praça da Ribeira. We actually felt more compelled to eat here only due to the weather, but we were not disappointed. The food was good and the service was above what we had experienced in other places. The prices were not too bad either, considering its location.
Pra̤a da Ribeira РRestaurant Deolinda РPorto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Tuna Salad – Porto, Portugal
Restaurant Deolinda – Vegetable Soup with Cod Fish Fritters and Hot Chocolate – Porto, Portugal
The weather too, did not disappoint.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe
Known for its Portuguese Nata, or Pastel de Nata, are a custard cream delight found at Fabrica da Nata. There is a special little room within the cafe where they prepare these treats inside a glass enclosure. The cappuccino in Portugal is bit different from its Italian parent, it has more milk and is usually not as strong.
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Making Pastries – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Inside – Porto, Portugal
Fabrica da Nata Cafe – Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
Popina Restaurant
On the smaller scale, if you are looking for an authentic Portuguese adventure in cuisine, look no further than Popina. They have classic dishes here that are served like appetizers and are meant to be shared, so think family-style in a way. You select several items from the menu, all of which are brought out when they are ready, and them divide them accordingly. The order in which they are brought out though can appear a bit confused and disorderly, but bear with the process and you should not be disappointed.
Wanting to visit Porto, after hearing such good things about the city from family and friends, we decided to book a trip during the off season, March in fact. Our Tickets For Two were of course electronic, so no photographs of them, sorry.
Getting There
From Turin there are two direct flights twice weekly to Porto, Portugal with RyanAir, which is also a designated hub of this carrier. Two weeks ago we booked our stays and flights, well knowing the weather during this time of year is very undependable, it did not disappoint.
Turin Airport – Gate 20, Bound for Porto – Porto, Portugal
Turin Airport – The Nose Of Our Plane – Porto, Portugal
The flight was a little over two hours and left in the evening, in fact all the flights on Mondays and Fridays between these two cities are evening flights. We left around 6:30PM and arrived a little after 9:00PM, but it is actually 8:00PM local time, since you gain an hour.
RyanAir Flight – Coming Into The City – Porto, Portugal
Our arrival was bumpy and wet, so after we arrived, Patti and I decided to take a taxi instead of the metro. It was a good decision, first it only cost us thirty Euros and second, it was pouring out; so getting door to door service was very helpful.
Carris Hotel Ribiera
The Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto is no doubt a collection of a few building that have been extensively renovated. It is close to the water and midway down the river embankment, so no matter which was you walk there will be a hill.
The accommodations are modern enough, though there are a few oddities and some unpleasant things, for one the bed in the room was very hard. Another unfortunate oversight, the safe provided in the room is not bolted to the wall or closet, so anyone can easily just pick it up with all of your possessions and leave the room; we therefore chose not to use it.
Porto – The City
The city of Porto, or Oporto, may pose difficulties for some. For one it essentially lays on the very steep banks of the River Douro, which has its source deep in central Spain, and therefore is very hilly.
The River Douro – Ribeira Square – Porto, Portugal
Street Car or Tram – Porto, Portugal
The Streets Under Rain – Porto, Portugal
The Streets Under Rain – Porto, Portugal
The city is known for its buildings having tiled facades, as well as many of its famous buildings, like the Sao Bento train station and its churches and cathedral.
Typical Street – Porto, Portugal
Churches and Cathedrals
There are many churches and cathedrals in the city, some are free to enter, others have been repurposed and charge a fee.
Parish Church of St. Nicholas
The Parish Church of Saint Nicholas was the first church we visited. We were stuck by its tiled exterior. The interior has an amazing golden altar with a painting of a scene after the crucifixion.
Parish Church of St. Nicholas – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Parish Church of St. Nicholas – Altar and Inside – Porto, Portugal
Church of Saint Francis
The Church of Saint Francis is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful churches we have been lucky enough to visit. Almost the entire interior is decorated with carved wooden and gilded ornamentation depicting all different scenes from Catholicism.
Church Of Saint Francis – Entrance – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Its Gilded Wooden Interior – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – A Gilded Wooden Tree With Figures – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
The Church Museum
The museum houses an impressive collection of church artifacts and treasures, it is probably worth the reasonable cost of entry alone.
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Religious Sculpture Room, Old 17th Century Wooden and Iron Strongbox – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Treasury Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Treasury Room – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Museum, Old Tapestry – Porto, Portugal
The Crypt
One of the more extensive crypts we have seen. It also has a peculiar floor that has removable panels, no doubt for easy access to the remains in place in each sarcophagus.
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt – Porto, Portugal
Church Of Saint Francis – Crypt Bone House – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral
Ostensibly the Porto Cathedral is crowning jewel of the church in the city, however we did not find it as interesting as St. Francis. There are several self-guided tours to chose from, including the Bishop’s quarters which we decided against. However, the rest of the grounds are interesting, if only for the tile work, or Azulejo, for which the cathedral and most of the city is so keenly known.
Porto Cathedral – Statue of Vimara Peres – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Patti in front of the Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Courtyard – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Portico – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Courtyard – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Delft Tiling – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Right Apse – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Nave and Altar – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Rose Window – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Left Apse – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Left Apse, Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Side Chapel – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Bronze and Baptismal Font – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Bells – Porto, Portugal
Porto Cathedral – Main Bell – Porto, Portugal
Clerigos Church
Though we did not go in, there is a fee to enter, we enjoyed the church from the street. It wasn’t really clear from our research that it was particularly known for anything, so we decided to skip this church.
Clerigos Church – Porto, Portugal
Torre Dos Clerigos
Likewise, the clock tower associated with it looks impressive from the street and probably has some interesting points inside, however, again we chose not to indulge on paying for entry, since we had no inclination for climbing the stairs to the top, we had already seen an overview of the city from other vantage points.
Clerigos Church Clock Tower – Porto, Portugal
Restaurants and Cafes
Most restaurants and cafes in Porto are small, actually very small, and you will be lucky to find a place to sit down if you are not lucky or willing to wait. For dinner it is always best to make a reservation, almost all restaurants take and honor them, though some may restrict the amount of time you may keep you table.
Forno Velho
This restaurant is part of the Carris Hotel Ribiera in Porto and serves a limited, but very good selection of food from their menu. We ate here because it was late, around 9:30PM and raining outside. Though they do get a premium price for their entrees, the food was very good and well prepared, and we received a fifteen percent discount on our bill.
Hotel Carris Porto-Ribeira, Forno Velho Restaurant – Red Mushroom Rissotto – Porto, Portugal
Hotel Carris Porto-Ribeira, Forno Velho Restaurant – Veal Tataki with apple and peppercorns, potatoes with speck – Porto, Portugal
Rocinha Cafe
On our first morning in Porto we ate at the Rocinha Cafe, which lies around the corner on the same block as our hotel. It offered an English Breakfast for ten Euros each, and we were able to substitute our cappuccinos as our beverage of choice, so our total bill was twenty Euros.
Rocinha Cafe – English Breakfast – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant
For lunch we ate at A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant. This establishment is obviously owned by an owner of a vineyard or larger farm in the area, since they have a particular brand of wine. Expect good food with a paced, if not slow service, since there is only one server and one cook. Oh, and if they bring out hot sauce that has an eye-dropper in it, it most definitely serious stuff, so administer appropriately on your dish.
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Menu – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Kale and Potato Soup with Wine – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Bifana Portugese Sandwich Traditional – Porto, Portugal
A Bifana Portuguesa Restaurant – Bifana Portugese Sandwich Traditional, Hot Sauce in an Eye Dropper – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistro
If you are looking for a small traditional Italian dinner look no further than Incontro Bistro, it is essentially a hole in the wall with a kitchen and seven tables. We sat next to the kitchen and had a wonderful time enjoying the cacophony and smells. The only one thing to point would be they only serve macaroni pasta, no long pasta, so you have to choose from one of those.
Incontro Bistrot – Kitchen – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Caprese for Two – Porto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot РFusilli with Tomatoes and Basil, Penne with Rag̼ РPorto, Portugal
Incontro Bistrot – Panna Cota with Berries – Porto, Portugal
We recently spent two weeks in the Frankfurt area with family. While we were there, we had the good fortune to visit a few new restaurants and a couple of old favorites.
Restaurants In Frankfurt
Lokal Bahnhof
Though we did eat at the Lokal Bahnhof in Frankfurt Süd, Darmstädter Landstraße 14, it was not remarkable enough to take any photographs. A nice enough place to eat for lunch, but aside from a quick bite, nothing special.
Restaurants In Offenbach
Papi Original Italian Ristorante
Located in Offenbach, at Friedrichsring 39, is an excellent place for an evening meal called Papi Original Italian. A favorite of our’s when we are in the area, it had good service and very good food. The menu has very good southern Italian dishes and pizza, so something for everyone.
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Main Entrance – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Pizza – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Spaghetti Bolognese – Offenbach, Germany
Papis Original Italian Restaurant – Pasta Bolognese – Offenbach, Germany
Restaurants In Dreieich
Since we were staying in Dreieich, most of the restaurants we visited were in this small, quaint little town.
China Restaurant Hong Kong
The China Restaurant Hong Kong is located on Hauptstraße 8 on the main avenue of town. It has laterns outside, so is easily visible from your car as you drive passed it. However, it is also an easy walk from some of the nearby parking locations.
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Gabi at Main Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Inside Decor – Dreieich, Germany
The food is good and they have a good variety on the menu, including Thai and some Vietnamese dishes.
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Mixed Salad, Spring Roll – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Fried Rice with Vegetables – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
China Restaurant Hong Kong – Pork and Onion over Rice – Dreieich, Germany
Wirsthaus Leopolt
If you are actually looking for German food, look no further than Leopolt’s. They have weekly specials, as well as all the favorites and a variety of other dishes. It is also located in town at Hauptstraße 20.
Wirsthaus Leopolt – Patti and Erick – Dreieich, Germany
On Eisenbahnstraße 38 is the Italian restaurant La Rughetta. A smaller establishment than the others, it has a small, comfortable atmosphere with a family cooking feel. The menu has your typical items on it and the food is very good, though you may have to wait some time before it appears, so bring your patience.
Ristorante La Rughetta – Main Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Rughetta – Inside – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Rughetta – Molinari and Coffee Beans – Dreieich, Germany
La Faggio
A newer, more upscale place to eat, that has the appearance of one of the in-places to go is La Faggio, located closer to the train station at Buchschlager Allee 19. Though the eating area is rather spacious, we had the impression there were not enough servers to adequately attend to everyone in a timely manner; so be prepared to wait longer, even to order.
Ristorante La Faggio – Main Dining Area – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Eggplant Parmigiano – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Filet Mignon – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Spaghetti and Tomatoes with Oil and Garlic – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Bruschetta – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante La Faggio – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Al Dente da Pino Ristorante
At the other end of town is Al Dente da Pino Ristorante at Dieselstraße 3. Again, an Italian restaurant with a friendly charm and comfortable atmosphere. The food is very good and the service prompt and friendly. Probably one of the better places in town to eat.
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Entrance – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Artwork – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Photographs – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Photographs – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Minestrone – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Caprese Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Mixed Salad – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Pasta Bolognese – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Pork Piccata – Dreieich, Germany
Ristorante Al Dente da Pino – Braised Pork – Dreieich, Germany
Restaurants In Dreieichenhain
A short stone’s throw away from Dreieich is Dreieichenhain, a medieval little touristy like town with a Roman Wall and Clock Tower Gate. We have been here several times and try a different place to eat, each time we visit. On the day of our visit it was for a small brunch.
Old Roman Wall – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Cafe Cult
A small cafe kind of in the middle of town. Modern, friendly and quick, they have something for most everyone. Including very good coffee and other drinks. The desserts look amazing, though we did not try any. The bagels are bread type bagels, not traditional jewish bagels, but sufficient for bagel sandwiches, which were very tasty.
Cafe Cult – Egg with Avocado on a Bagel – Dreieichenhain, Germany
Due to the fact that we came back to Bari for one night, since our return flight leaves out of Bari airport, we thought one last post on other things we had not mentioned in our prior posts might be in order. We booked and stayed again at Murex Bed and Breakfast, and sometimes when you’ve already been in a town or city, that may make all the difference.
Corso Regina Elena – Trani, Italy
We enjoyed our stay in Bari, but felt that if it weren’t for its location to other places that interested us, we probably would have just done a day trip to it. So, I would consider it more a place of convenience than one you can sink your teeth into and really enjoy, like Trani.
Various Other Points Of Interest In The City
Below are some of the other points of interest that can be easy to miss just walking around looking at the next pin on your map. This is one advantage of slow travel, having the time just to meander around and have a proper Stadtbummel. One word of caution, if you plan on taking a walk along the Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza make sure the wind is blowing out to sea. The water surrounded by the Faro Molo Sant’Antonio is a real sewer and stinks.
Via Vittorio Emanuelle – Bari, Italy
Micuzzi building – Bari, Italy
Teatro Margherita – Bari, Italy
Teatro Petruzzelli – Bari, Italy
Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza – A real sewer – Bari, Italy
The main train station in Bari is a must for those taking day trips in and out of the city. It is approximately a fifteen to twenty minute walk from the historic center straight down the main shopping avenue of Via Sparano da Bari. It connects with all forms of TrennItalia trains and some regional trains as well.
Bari Centrale train station – Bari, Italy
Restaurants
Some final thoughts on restaurants in Bari. The below are some of the places we visited when we just didn’t know what to do, the weather was cooperating or we were just looking for something different.
The famous pizza of Naples comes to Bari with Da Michele’s Pizzeria. His classic thin crust and speedy service never disappoints. If you are looking for something in a pinch, don’t have a lot of time, or are just tired of eating Pugliese cuisine, Da Michele’s Pizzeria will have something for you. It is located on the corner of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Benedetto Petrone.
Da Michele Pizzeria – Original Neapolitan Pizza – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria – Margherita Pizza – Bari, Italy
Da Michele Pizzeria – BaBa pastry – Bari, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Pechino
If you are someone who needs a fix of Chinese food every once in a while like me, then Ristorante Cinese Pechino might suit your needs. It was a five minute walk just inside Murat from our Bed & Breakfast in the historic district.
The food is a bit on the salty side, as I found the Maiale con Cipolle (pork and onions in brown sauce). However, the Wonton Soup was very good as were the Involtini Primavera.
What follows are some final thoughts on our stay in Lecce. Though we found the city intriguing, having an interesting history, some good food and enough sights to see to keep you busy, we don’t feel comfortable commending it for more than a few days at best. For the most part, the Città Vecchia is very quiet and doesn’t open until after noon. Even with the myriad number of churches, there are practically no other monuments, fountains or public places to enjoy. Other than that, there are not many connecting little towns in the area to plan day trips around.
Museums
To wrap up our visit to Lecce, we still had one museum left on our church ticket to see, as well as the private museum of Museo Faggiano. So on Monday we planned visiting them, eating lunch and then having a light afternoon.
Museo Faggiano
A private museum, the Museo Faggiano is located on Via Ascanio Grandi, 56/58, not far from our Bed and Breakfast. The host has a written tour guide in most European languages and everything is numbered, so it is not a difficult self-guided tour.
Museo Faggiano – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Tickets For Two – Lecce, Italy
The museum was created by mistake in 2001 when Luciano Faggiano and his sons were digging to fix a plumbing issue. What they found made front page news, even in the United States. While digging out certain areas they discovered artifacts and burial places and had to stop and inform the proper authorities.
Museo Faggiano – NYT Article on archaeological discovery – Lecce, Italy
Luckily, with the proper guidance and help, they were able to turn it into the museum you see today, thanks to the efforts of the Archaeological Superintendence of Taranto and the Idume Cultural Association. The archaeological collection has artifacts starting in the fifth century BCE and spans the Roman, Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
Museo Faggiano – Old Water Drain System for Cistern – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Dug as an Escape Tunnel – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Tank and Cistern Pulley – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Entrance Sign – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Old 17th Century Tile and other artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Very Cramped – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – 11th century Grain Silo – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Cistern and Well – Lecce, Italy
From the eleventh until the thirteenth century the place was a Templar house and used for purposes of their cause. After that, it was converted into a convent in the early seventeenth century for the Franciscan Nuns of Saint Claire.
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Convent Rooms – Lecce, Italy
There are places along the tour, especially when descending where the well is and a few other spots, where it is rather cramped and the stairwell a bit claustrophobic, so take care.
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Another Escape Route – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Other Holes and Routes – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Escape route probably connected with Sant’Oronzo Square – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Patti in Underground Room with Firepit – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – An Escape Passage and old foundation hole – Lecce, Italy
There is an overlook observatory, but frankly there is not much to see from that perch. It was probably used by the Templars as a lookout or alternative escape route since it appears to be attached to many of the surrounding roofs in the area.
Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Observation Turret – Lecce, Italy
Story Of The Five Cavers
Apparently another archaeological dig is also documented in one of the rooms in the museum. It has to do with five cavers who discovered neolithic archaeological artifacts, handprints and pictograms in caves where they were spelunking around Otranto, Italy.
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Room, La Grotta dei Cervi – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Handprint Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Deer Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Burial Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Faggiano – Five Cavers Diorama, Stalagmite Room, La Grotta dei Cervi, Otranto – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano
The Museo Sigismondo Castromediano is a large and modern museum south of the old city on Viale Gallipoli. It houses ancient archaeological artifacts which are arranged in special themes.
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Seascape Theme – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Land Theme – Ancient Neolithic Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Artifacts – Lecce, Italy
Museo Sigismondo Castromediano – Living Theme – Ancient Burial Stones – Lecce, Italy
Churches
We were told there was an interesting church to see in the new section of the city, so we headed over there to see both it and the water fountain not far from it.
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio
The Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio, or Sanctuary of Saint Anthony in Fulgenzio is located the newer part of Lecce. It is worth a visit because of the beautiful frescos that adorn its ceilings.
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Exterior Facade and Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar and Apse from Nave – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Altar, Crossing and Apse – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Left Transept – Lecce, Italy
Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Fulgenzio – Right Transept – Lecce, Italy
Restaurants
There are a few more restaurants that we visited while in Lecce. Of note are the ones below and of singular distinction is the Chinese Restaurant which we both found a surprise, not only for the extensive menu, but also for the quality of its foods.
Gusto Liberrima
It can be difficult on the weekends, especially Sunday, to find a place to eat that you do not need reservations. Gusto Liberrima located on Corte dei Cicala, 12, appears to be large enough to accommodate more people and might have openings when others do not. We met our new found friends Roland and Amanda at another place we tried to get into, only to be denied and then we tried Gusto Liberrima.
It has Cucina Tipica for the Puglia and other items on the menu, so one should be able to find something to their taste. Roland ordered the Finocchio Arrosto which we tried and it was amazing. It was roasted fennel with parmesan cream, pistachio and almonds crumbled with fresh truffle, very tasty.
Patti and I both had the Velutata di Zucca or the pumpkin soup with gorgonzola, rosemary oil, basil cream, croutons, it was delicious. Patti ordered the Insalata Mediterranea which is made with rocket, carrots, tuna fillet, leccine olives, chicory, friscous, mustard mayonnaise, caramelized red onion and I ordered the Sagne Ritorte, which is just homemade pasta in a ragù, along with an Insalata Mista.
Ristorante Gusto Liberrima – Vellutata di Zucca – Lecce, Italy
Along the Viale dell’Università is the Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du. This restaurant has a modern interior and a lengthy menu offering items perhaps not very common. So if you looking for a change of cuisine from the usual Tipica Cucina, then this place may be the answer. Unfortunately at the time of this writing I could not find a website for them.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Placemat – Lecce, Italy
The Noodle and Vegetable Soup is very good and can be highly recommended. Other dishes, including the Vegetable Rice Saltate and Cabbage with garlic and oil are also excellent choices.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Noodle Soup and Vegetable Fried Rice with Shrimp – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Soup with Noodles, Cabbage and Scallions, Vegetable Fried Rice – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Pollo Piccante – Chopped Chicken with Red Pepper, Ginger, Onion and Black Pepper – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Chinese Cabbage in Garlic and Oil – Lecce, Italy
For our second time around we ordered the same soup and rice but changed our main dishes to Eggplant with Chopped Meat and Scallions, and Sweet and Sour Pork with Green Peppers.
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Eggplant, Chopped Meat and Scallions – Lecce, Italy
Ristorante Cinese Cheng Du – Sweet and Sour Port with Green Peppers, Pineapple in Duck Sauce, White Rice and Fried Rice with Vegetables – Lecce, Italy
The second largest city in Apulia is called Lecce and is located on the Salentine Peninsula of Italy. It is rich in Baroque architecture, most of which is in the form of Lecce limestone and is often referred to as the Florence of the South. It one of the oldest settlements in southern Italy, with activity dating back to neolithic times.
Getting There
From Brindisis, or most other larger towns and cities on the east coast of Mezzogiorno, the FrecciaArgento is perhaps to quickest way to arrive. From Brindisi it is a short twenty three minute ride, a bit longer on the regional trains.
Lecce Train Station – Lecce, Italy
The City
Lecce is a typical ancient city which was at one time circumscribed with a protective wall with three main gates. The streets in the old Città Vecchia, or old history city, are narrow and mostly paved with stones.
Typical city street – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Narrow carless streets – Lecce, Italy
Old Roman columned wall – Lecce, Italy
The government here must be very careful of the city center, since it appears to have mitigated much of the traffic you would normally find in other similar cities of this size, making pedestrian traffic all that more enjoyable.
Palazzo Lecciso – Lecce, Italy
Interesting balcony supports – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Castromediano – Lecce, Italy
Palazzo Di Giustizia – Lecce, Italy
Ports, Gates, Columns And Castles
There are numerous ports, gates, columns and obelisks in Lecce. These are spread out all of the city and are well labeled on most maps. The Triumphal Arch, or Porta Napoli, is the largest and one of the three gates to enter the Città Vecchia.
Porta di Napoli – Front – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
Porta di Napoli – Back – Lecce, Italy
There is also the Porta San Biagio and a smaller one called the Arco di Prato, or Arch of Prato, which is somewhat hidden away within the narrow city streets.
Porta San Biagio – Lecce, Italy
The Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
Arch of Prato – Lecce, Italy
The Obelisk of Terra d’Otranto can be seen close to the Porta Napoli and is rather tall. It was erected in 1822 in honor of one of the rulers of the Two Sicilies. On the other side of town one can find the War Memorial for soldiers lost in war.
Porta di Napoli – Obelisco di Terra d’Otranto – Lecce, Italy
War Memorial – Lecce, Italy
In the Piazza Saint Oronzo you will find the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, or the Column of Saint Oronzo. It is a tall pedestal with Saint Oronzo on top. The column itself was assembled from pieces of the one that fell apart in Brindisi in the mid sixteenth century, its twin can be found near the port of that city.
Column of Saint Oronzo – Lecce, Italy
The Castello de Carlo V, or Castle of Charles V sits on the eastern edge of the historic city and below the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens. It is a large structure and tours are offered, all of which are guided, so you cannot tour the grounds unaccompanied. A short walk from there you will the public park or gardens, which is always a good stop to rest your feet after a few hours of walking.
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Castello Carlo V di Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Lecce, Italy
Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Gardens – Fountain – Lecce, Italy
Roman Ruins
Lecce has in its old historic city not one, but two Roman amphitheaters. Unfortunately for us, both were being restored while we visited and photography was very difficult in both cases.
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater of Lecce – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Roman Amphitheater, 2nd Century – Lecce, Italy
Where We Stayed
For the second time on this trip we have booked a Bed and Breakfast. I still cannot say I am fan, but there are times when alternatives to hotels may make a better fit. However, we only commit to such alternatives directly and after thorough research.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque
We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast called L’Orangerie d’Epoque on Viale Francesco Lo Re near the Porta San Biagio. A rather large building with a central portico that appears to have one owner.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entryway and Portico – Lecce, Italy
Our room was on the ground floor with its own entrance to the portico. The entryway has a beautiful mosaic tiled floor, reminiscent of ancient Rome or Pompeii.
L’Orangerie d’Epoque Bed & Breakfast – Entrance Mosaic and Door – Lecce, Italy
The room was spacious, with a fireplace and split up into almost four equal parts. There was a large dining area by the entrance that flowed into a living room with several couches.
This small restaurant has good food and wine at fairly reasonable prices. We actually went there late for lunch, around 14:40 and they still took our order and served us.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
The service was very good and the menu had a decent choice of both local cuisine and other more general Italian items to chose.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Front of the Building – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Entrance, Cassa and Wines – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Wines – Lecce, Italy
I ordered the Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese, an Insalata Mista (mixed salad) and the Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu and Patti ordered the Ciceri and Tria Pasta and shared my Polpette. All the dishes were very good. The wine was Negroamaro from the region and it was very good, served by the glass. The desserts you can see below and the espresso was also very good, not bitter at all.
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Eggplant Polpette in Ragu Sauce with Ricotta Cheese – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Insalata Mista – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Ciceri and Tria Pasta – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Orecchiette with re-milled Semolina with Scottona Red Ragu – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Salted Pistachio Semifreddo with Chocolate Crunchy, Martucci Spumone Hazelnut Chocolate – Lecce, Italy
La Cucina Di Mamma Elvira – Espresso and Molinari Sambuca – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine And Lounge
We stopped here for a drink and decided on a quick bite to eat, since we were both getting hungry and it was only a little passed eleven. We were actually surprised they were serving lunch.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Patti outside waiting for soup – Lecce, Italy
Miro Wine and Lounge – Erick outside waiting for soup with a glass of red – Lecce, Italy
While we waited, I ordered a glass of Negroamaro from Puglia, a very nice wine that reminds me of Barbera. They had a nice bean and cereal soup on the menu that Patti and I decided to try and it was magnificent.
Miro Wine and Lounge – Bean and Cereal soup with Croutons – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo
The restaurant Tranquillo is a more modern restaurant with two locations in Lecce, we chose the one located at Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The service and food were very good.
Tranquillo – Entrance – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Menu – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Inside – Lecce, Italy
We dined late again at around 14:30, opting for a larger lunch and skipping dinner. We find this preferrable to eating again late in the evening and going to bed with a full stomach, something that we find does not lend itself to a good night sleep as we get older. I ordered the Apulian Bombette with Cheese on greens with a side order of Potato al Forno and Cicorie (Chickory), and Patti ordered the Cicorie on Pureed Fava Beans.
Tranquillo – Chicory side and Chicory on Pureed Fava Beans – Lecce, Italy
Tranquillo – Potatoes al Forno, Ricetta Bombette with cheese and a glass of red wine – Lecce, Italy
Often referred to as La Città Bianca, or the White City, from certain vantage points, it does appear somewhat like the houses on Santorini island of the Greek Archipelago. It is however difficult getting a good photograph that represents it from a distance, unless you drive a car.
Panoramic view of the Adriatic – Ostuni, Italy
Getting There
A twenty minute train ride from Brindisi Centrale and a five minute bus drive from Ostuni Zona Sisri, is the small ancient city of Ostuni. The trains run at least every hour in both directions and perhaps even more often around rush hour times.
Follow the signs to the bus stop – Ostuni, Italy
Follow the signs to the bus stop – Ostuni, Italy
Fermata, bus stop – Green Times – Ostuni, Italy
Even more importantly, it should be noted that getting back, not all Fermata are active where the bus should stop. Apparently, during the off-season the only one that remains active is the one at via tenente Specchia, where we were left off at the start of our journey. So plan on returning there and not at the one of the other two bus stops sometimes indicated in the city by other information sources.
Sign indicating Fermata closed from 13th January – Ostuni, Italy
The White City
The White City, or the Città Bianca[1]which is actually the Città Vecchia or old city, is located on a mount or hill with a commanding view of the plain below. The newer part of the city stretches out towards the south and is rather residential and nondescript in nature.
Santuario Madonna della Grata – Ostuni, Italy
Adriatic Sea – Ostuni, Italy
While in the main piazza, or Piazza della Libertà , this is a good place to stop for a coffee or drink. Here you will find several things to see, including the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo and the Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi.
Colonna di Sant’Oronzo – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Entrance – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Nave – Ostuni, Italy
Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy
Comune Di Ostuni & Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi – Ostuni, Italy
Skyline – Ostuni, Italy
Ahead, the climb is not that bad, but the city streets and passageways are rather serpentine and have a myriad of steps that go up and down, so bring rested legs. We spent a good part of a day here, we walked and climbed all over the place and traveled just over seven miles.
Steps up to part of the city – Ostuni, Italy
City streets – Ostuni, Italy
Skyline – Ostuni, Italy
Religious motives – Ostuni, Italy
The Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta and Arco Scoppa are located in the same place in the Centro Storico di Ostuni at the top of the hill.
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta
– Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Nave – Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Ceiling – Ostuni, Italy
Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta – Old Wooden Doors and Old Iron Hinges – Ostuni, Italy
Arco Scoppa – Ostuni, Italy
Arco Scoppa – Ostuni, Italy
While meandering through the streets of Ostuni, we noticed several interesting doorways that had unusual flourishes and ornate features.
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Ornate doorways – Ostuni, Italy
Aside from that, there are mostly lazy narrow streets, stairways and white houses in the city. From time to time, you will come across places to eat, but during this time of year, most of them are closed. They most likely open later in the March timeframe, when the tourist activity picks up.
Residential area – Ostuni, Italy
Patti – Ostuni, Italy
Way to the north part of the Citta Vecchio – Ostuni, Italy
The Adriatic – Ostuni, Italy
Stairs, stairs, stairs – Ostuni, Italy
City streets – Ostuni, Italy
Restaurants
Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni
The Al Cortiletto Vino e Birra Ostuni restaurant offers typical Italian food with some Pugliese items thrown in, so there is something for everyone. We had met some fellow travelers while on the bus from the Ostuni train station with whom we engaged in conversation during the ride. In order to finish what we had begun, they suggested we meet for lunch and this is the place they picked.
Roland and Amanda – Ostuni, Italy
Patti and I ordered and shared the Bruschetta. Then she ordered a Tuna Salad and I had the Cheese Gnocchi with ragu. Unfortunately, we took no photographs and you will have to build a mental image of what we ate.
When we left, Roland and Amanda were on their way back to Lecce, where we are headed tomorrow and we returned to Brindisi. We traded telephone numbers and promised to stay in touch for a lunch or dinner when there, since they will still be there during our visit later this week into next.
If it is raining out and there is not much else to do, then a trip to Brindisi could be the cure for your rainy day. Though not much to see, nor much to look at, Brindisi does offer a few points of interest. We mainly used it for a short respite during our eighteen day visit to Mezzogiorno.
Getting To Brindisi
From Bari we reserved seats on the FrecciaArgento[1]FrecciaArgento, or TrennItalia’s Silver Arrow service, as opposed to the FrecciaRosso, or Red Arrow service in other areas which only takes a hour. There are other regional offerings, however they usually take longer but are less expensive, so there are options.
Bari Centrale – Waiting for our FrecciaArgento – Bari, Italy
Brindisi Centrale – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi does have a airport that is serviced by RyanAir. While here we saw several airplanes land and take off during the day and the airport was directly across the water on the other side of the city from our hotel.
Bindisi The City
Brindisi’s Citta Vecchia, or historical center, is a bit elongated but does reach to the bay where the port is located. The Corso Roma is the main avenue for shopping, though it cannot be compared to the one in Bari or other larger towns or cities we have visited along the coast.
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
Corso Roma – Brindisi, Italy
City Market – Brindisi, Italy
Piazza Il Duomo And The Roman Column
The Piazza Il Duomo has the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista and some other sites to see. The cathedral is rather plain inside, but somewhat impressive from the outside.
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Brindisi, Italy
Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista – Modern Interior – Brindisi, Italy
The Colonne Romane, or Roman Column, was erected in the city to define one of the endpoints of the Appian Way, or the extent of Rome. Others have countered that they were merely erected as a visual aid for mariners to know where the actual port was located. There were two originally, of which only one still exists in all of its glory, the other crumbled in the mid sixteenth century. The crumbled remains of the one were donated to Lecce for their column.
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Unesco site – Brindisi, Italy
Colonne Romane – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale
Our hotel was the Grande Albergo Internazionale located on the Viale Regina Margherita down by the water. We booked a suite which overlooked the water.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Front – Brindisi, Italy
It is a somewhat dated hotel, but has enough amenities to be comfortable. However, the outside and inside looks like it is in need of some restoration. Our room was spacious and the bathroom modern which was a big benefit.
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Patti in our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Our room – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Restaurant for Breakfast – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Grande Albergo Internazionale – Outside our window – Brindisi, Italy
Lungomare di Brindisi
As the name implies, you are able to walk along the water for some length along the Lungomare di Brindisi. It starts near the parking area when you enter the port down to, but no further than the Approdo delle Indie. After that begins an Italian Naval Base and you are redirected up a set of stairs and away from the shore.
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Italian Mariner monument from the Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Viale Regina Margherita – Lungomare di Brindisi – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service
From the Lungomare, or Viale Regina Margherita, about where it intersects with Piazza Vittorio Emanuele III is one location you can pick up the shuttle. It has a four stop route along the inlet and completes the circuit about once every twenty minutes. One use, simple route charge was 1.20€ per person, which only excepts contactless credit card or NFC contactless payments from your phone, NO CASH.
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Dock on the Airport Side – Brindisi, Italy
Brindisi Shuttle Service – Brindisi, Italy
Saint John At The Sepulchre
The St John At The Sepulchre is an ancient eleventh century Church of the Holy Sepulcher with circular construction built over a pre-existing church. It was built to resemble the ancient Anastasis Rotunda of the Holy Selpuchre in Jerusalem with the intention of providing a memory of that structure.
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Brindisi, Italy
The monument is intended to show the close relationship between Brindisi and the Holy Land during the time of the crusades. Built by the Knight Order of the Canons Regular sometime before 1128, it was conceived to give those who could not pilgrimage to the Holy Land a feeling for that destination, and for those who have, a reminder of it.
St John At The Sepulchre – Main Entrance – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Media Presentation Showing Route To Isreal – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Other Items – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Old Nails, Hinges – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
The hole in the floor shows Roman mosaics belonging to a large Roman house dating back to the first and second century CE.
St John At The Sepulchre – Columns – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roman Ruins – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Roof Timber Works – Brindisi, Italy
There are multiple frescoes on the walls depicting several different important themes of Christianity. All of which have been damaged by previous ownership, no doubt to repurpose the building for other uses.
St John At The Sepulchre – Deposition From The Cross, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Deesis, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint Inside Arcat, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Flagellation, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – The Virgin And The Child, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Pentecost, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Saint George And The Dragon, 13th Century – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Side Entrance Lintel – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Patio – Brindisi, Italy
St John At The Sepulchre – Garden In Back – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli
The Porta Napoli, also known as the Porta Mesagne, is the oldest entrance to the ancient city. It was constructed during Roman times by Marc Anthony to isolate the city from land side invasions. The Ruga Magistra or main street originated from this gate, which coincides today with via Carmine and via Filomeno Consiglio today.
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Porta Napoli – Brindisi, Italy
Castello Svevo
Unlike the map that one of the major search providers tries to imply you can walk the entire way around bay to the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia; this cannot be done. We found out the difficult way by walking to Castello Svevo or the Swabian Castle of Brindisi, only to find out that you cannot enter without a pass, it is an active Naval Base. Temporary passes can be obtained online, but there is a forty-eight hour waiting period (don’t ask – I have no idea why, however it is required before you may return and enter). Since we are not staying here that long we decided to forgo that pleasure.
So, denied entry, we changed our plans and headed for the Fontana Tancredi, thinking that it might be a sight to see, and afterwards we could just walk toward the bay and find the Lungomare; no such luck on both accounts. Most of the area in and around the castle is restricted and cannot be entered, the fountain is fenced off, overgrown and only trickles water, so total failure on both accounts.
Via Provincial San Vito – Brindisi, Italy
Aldo Moro Monument – Brindisi, Italy
Southern Italian Naval Base – Brindisi, Italy
In fact, they have very large naval ships anchored here as well temporary housing for illegal immigrants. We attempted to go as far as the tennis club, or Circolo Tennis Club, but then turned around. Had we known beforehand, we could have continued further and picked up the bay shuttle about a half kilometer further.
Castello Svevo – Map and where not to go – Brindisi, Italy
While walking back, we discovered the Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli church. A nondescript church from the outside offers a better view from the inside. If you are in the area of Via Ferrante Fornari and see the church, it is worth to stick your head in and take a look.
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Brindisi, Italy
Santuario Santa Maria degli Angeli – Nave and Ceiling – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia
The large monument across the bay is the Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia, a naval monument erected for the fallen navy personal of Italy. It has two shore guns on either side and may be climbed for a fee, there is a lookout on the top that has a commanding view of the city.
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Monumento al Marinaio d’Italia – Brindisi, Italy
Restaurants
Most of the restaurants that we visited were down by the water and along the Lungomare.
Ristorante Windsurf
We chose this restaurant out of convenience, mostly because of the rain and threat of thunderstorms, and glad we did because while we were eating it poured. It was also conveniently located thirty meters from our hotel entrance.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – Lobster tank – Brindisi, Italy
The food is typical pizzeria food with a concentration on sea food for everything else. I chose a pizza and Patti stuck with a panini that they offered on the menu. The Negroamaro from Puglia was actually very nice, dry but not overly tannic.
Windsurf Ristorante Pizzeria – A Negroamaro from Puglia – Brindisi, Italy
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi
A similar cafe and pizzeria as WindSurf is Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi, located just below the stairs to the Roman Column. We stopped here for a simple lunch consisting of salads, bread and pizza points. The wine was house wine, but was very good.
Betty Gelateria Cafe Ristorante Pizzeria A Brindisi – Patti’s Green Salad With Fruit And Nuts – Brindisi, Italy
We also stopped later in the evening for dinner, since they were one of the few restaurants around showing pasta with ragu sauce on their menus. Patti ordered the Penne all’Arrabbiata and I ordered the Tagliatelle al Ragú.
Final Thoughts
Although we both thought that Brindisi is rather clean and has some things to offer, we weren’t so sure that we visit, if we didn’t have so much time on our hands being retired. Therefore, for the casual visitor to Italy, we would not commend a visit, Bari and Trani have more to offer.
On a lark, Patti decided to go to Trani, Italy for the day. The morning was clear, blue and fantastic, so we could not expect better weather.
Trani Centrale – Trani, Italy
VIa Cavour – Trani, Italy
Trani is a seaside town on the Adriatic Sea in the region of Apulia. It has great wine, olive oil and food. It has an active fishing community which supports the local economy.
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
– Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Lighthouses – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy
The City
The city itself is well laid out, even for an ancient town. The historic center though windy and curvy is very clean and well labeled for tourist. After about an hour here we found it a most unexpected delight and were glad we came.
Chiesa Beata Maria Vergine del Monte Carmelo (o del Carmine) – Trani, Italy
Piazza Sacra Regia Udienza – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Narrow streets – Trani, Italy
One of the many portals – Trani, Italy
One of the many portals – Trani, Italy
Door with no stairs – Trani, Italy
Orologie Tower – Trani, Italy
Long portal – Trani, Italy
Auditorium San Luigi – Trani, Italy
Church of Saint Claire – Trani, Italy
The Golden or Ancient door – Trani, Italy
Another church – Trani, Italy
The Piazze Quercia has a least one cafe or bar which has outside seating. It is a great place in the spring to stop before lunch and get a drink. We find it relaxing just to watch the locals and the boats going in and out of the harbor, and of course, enjoying the sunshine and the fifty degree weather.
There is a beautiful walkway or sidewalk that enables you to walk around the entire port. Unlike Bari, where you can do this if you can tolerate the smell, the port is clean and well maintained.
Live shrimp – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Fishing boats – Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
Port of Trani – Trani, Italy
The fishing community appears to be active daily and some of the ships sell their catch right on the pier. You can find anything from live shrimp and fish to octopus. So, if you can cook in, bring your grocery bag and your wallet.
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale
The Parco Giochi Villa Comunale is located to the right of the Port of Trani as you walk as far as you can in the city. It has a portal that leads up to a great observation place, so that you get a commanding view of the boats and the jetties containing the lighthouses, which are all a different color.
Porto or entrance – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
– Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Bar Boschetto – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Fishing boat going out to sea – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Park Seal – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
There are some interesting monuments and an old anchor. Walking further, you will happen upon a aviary at the end of the park where they house parakeets.
We actually found it to be an amazing little park with little things to see, along with the aviary with parakeets they also have real parrots, which you will eventually notice are in the trees all around you. When we were here, they were all doing their crazy mating calls and dances on the ground, what a cacophony!
Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Parrots – Parco Giochi Villa Comunale – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta
In the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta, also known as Trani Cathedral. This cathedral is dedicated to Saint Nichola the Pilgrim. It is a very large structure, but it only opens later in the day around 15:30.
Piazza Duomo Front – Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Trani, Italy
Piazza Duomo Front – Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Trani, Italy
There are some restrictions when you enter, so please read the signs, though we saw no enforcement; having said that, it was winter and the slow season, so it may be impractical for them to oversee traffic during that time.
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Frescoes in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Orthodox bust in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Altar in the Crypt – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Entrance – Trani, Italy
Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta – Nave – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani
The Castello Svevo di Trani in just a small walk from the Piazza Duomo and Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima Assunta. There is actually not much to see, but it does have a few small things of interest. At one time it was a prison and had other incarnations as you go back in time to protect the town. It is also noted to have a large clock on its edifice.
Castello Svevo di Trani – Entrance – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Patti and the Basilica from the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Diorama of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Painting as you enter – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Sala Federico II room – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Ruins leading to the prison area – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Architecture of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old side portal in the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Strange window – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Lookout to the sea – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Old prison area of the castle – Trani, Italy
Castello Svevo di Trani – Large outside area – Trani, Italy
Restaurants
Since we were only doing a day trip, we were only able to visit one restaurant and that was for lunch.
Giù a Sud, Green Bistro
The Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot is located at Piazza Cesare Battisti in Trani. After viewing the menu outside we decided we would give it a try and we are glad we did.
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Inside – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bar and Inside – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Primitivo and bread – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Bean and Lentil soup with croutons – Trani, Italy
Giù a Sud, Green Bistrot, Piazza Cesare Battisti – Orecchiette and Broccoli Rape – Trani, Italy
The food and restaurant is sourced locally from green producers and prepared using artisanal recipes. They had a bean and lentil soup with croutons which was just delicious. I am pretty sure it is probably something that comes off the menu in the summer, but you may ask, in Italy you never know, especially in Mezzogiorno. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
Before I went to Alberobello, I had never heard of a Trullo house and I must say I find them rather odd. To me, they just appear as though they are a bit small and perhaps uncomfortable inside. But I guess it’s what you get used to in life.
How To Get There
From Bari the easiest way to get there is by the TrennItalia website, application or buying a ticket at the station. The bus arrives in front of the DOK supermarket on the back side of the train station, so from town you will have to use the underground train station passage to get to the bus stop, it is across the street of Via Giuseppe Capruzzi. The cost is minimal, 2€ per person each way. You may hear them referred to as the TrulliBus, but if you ask anyone locally they will be confused by your question. So use the destination name of Alberobello and there will not be any confusion.
Bus from Bari to Alberobello – Alberobello, Italy
Bus ride – Truli buildings – Alberobello, Italy
Bus ride – Truli buildings – Alberobello, Italy
It arrives in Alberobello at that city’s train station and it is about a fifteen to twenty minute walk to the houses.
Our bus from Bari – Alberobello, Italy
Train Station – Bus Stop – Alberobello, Italy
Alberobello
When one first sees a Trullo house one’s first impression might be that it is a rather strange place to live. However, there are other precedents in other cultures. Alberobello contains many such examples of these houses, now converted toward the tourists industry.
Typical Italian street – via Giuseppe Girabaldi – Alberobello, Italy
Monumento Dei Caduti in Guerre – Alberobello, Italy
Fountain – Piazza Giangirolamo II – Alberobello, Italy
Stairs with Truli house view – Alberobello, Italy
Via Brigata Regina – Alberobello, Italy
Via Brigata Regina – Alberobello, Italy
The Trullo House
Initially developed by farmers and herders as a temporary place to stay while performing their tasks. However, once learned that they could be used as a tax dodge, the Italians in the area converted them to more permanent residential building, while forgoing the need to pay their taxes.
Patti – Via Monte San Marco – Alberobello, Italy
Truli homes – Alberobello, Italy
Truli homes – Alberobello, Italy
Truli homes – Alberobello, Italy
Truli homes – Alberobello, Italy
Truli homes – Alberobello, Italy
Trattoria and Bar – Alberobello, Italy
Via Duca D’Aosta – Alberobello, Italy
Donna Lia Intrecci – Alberobello, Italy
Via Monte San Michelle – Alberobello, Italy
Via Monte San Michelle – Alberobello, Italy
Truli house tops – Alberobello, Italy
Truli shops – Alberobello, Italy
Truli houses – Alberobello, Italy
Chiesa Parrocchiale di Sant’Antonio da Padova – Chiesa a Trullo – Alberobello, Italy
Truly an authentic Truli home – Alberobello, Italy
Another authentic Truli home – Alberobello, Italy
Al Pozzo Illuminato shop – Alberobello, Italy
Restaurants
During the off season there are limited restaurants for lunch, so plan accordingly. However, there are a few that open all year.
Terra Mossa Ristorante Pizzeria
The Terra Mossa Ristorante Pizzeria was our second pick, but we happen to go there because it opened a half an hour earlier than our original pick.
Ristorante Terra Mossa – Entrance – Alberobello, Italy
Ristorante Terra Mossa – Inside – Alberobello, Italy
Ristorante Terra Mossa – Inside – Alberobello, Italy
Located on Via Indipendenza, 4, it is a totally modern establishment and able to handle large crowds and tour groups. There were two visiting while we were eating and we did not experience any change in our service. The food is very good and they have English speakers, due to their location in a tourist area. It is prices slightly on the high side, but if you don’t go nuts two people can eat a fair lunch for around 40€.
Ristorante Terra Mossa – Patti’s Frittura di Calamari e Gamberi – Alberobello, Italy
Ristorante Terra Mossa – Erick’s Maritati Al Ragu – Alberobello, Italy
Ristorante Terra Mossa – Erick’s Insalata Mista and Fritta Patate – Alberobello, Italy
