Glasgow seems a nice enough city, but it appears to have a jumble of architectural styles, like the city planners are convinced the city belongs to the future and not the past. This is evident in many structures and facilities, including the universities that exist within the city, they are very modern in appearance. However, this causes a clash with any older, existing structures that are clearly from the eighteenth and nineteeth centuries.
The Glasgow Central Train Station however has, in my opinion, been successful in melding the old with the new.
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Otherwise, Glasgow is like many other European cities, with a central pedestrian street for shopping, surrounded by other ancillary avenues and alleys for other mom and pop shops to sell their wares.
The Glasgow Cathedral
The cathedral is amazing, it is very long inside, in two sections, one with pews the other without, and free to the public.
Oddly enough, Â for no admission is actually has quite a lot to see. There is another section behind what we normally be the choir screen that contains additional relics and pieces that have been collection from former churchs on this site, some due to earlier renovations.
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The Glasgow Necropolis
As its name would imply, there is a very large cemetery behind the cathedral, sitting atop a hill overlooking Glasgow.
Though not much to see, unless of course you majored in history, specifically Glasgow history, it is a nice place to enjoy a quiet walk on an autumn day.
Glasgow Botanical Gardens
The gardens can be reached from the city center by taking the underground or subway. By taking the inner ring you will exit about two blocks from the gardens. However, if you take the outer ring, not to worry, the subway makes a complete circle, so just by staying on you will enventually reach your destingation.
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Here is a short slide show of what can be seen, without captions.
We arrived last evening in Scotland, traveling from Winchester through London’s Kings Cross station to Edinburgh’s Waverly station, counting on (according to a well-known phone app) an easy twelve-minute walk to our hotel. And what did we immediately face upon exiting the train station? Steps, hills and a steep ascent!
Edinburgh is hilly, very hilly. In fact, one may say almost bizarre in its construction. It is as though the city has two levels, one for the upper crust, one for the lower crust. And they only mix via a series of stairways, inclines and closes (apparently an old Scottish term to small back alleyways with or without stairs that can be closed off or guarded after dark).
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Amazing as this all sounds, Edinburgh does have some interesting things to see and experience. Musicians, for example. I am not sure if they are actual Scots, but they are dressed up in full garb and playing the bagpipes.
One can also say the city is a bit blighted, as one may call it, by the plague of construction and reconstruction going on all over the United Kingdom. It would seem that the government here has seen fit that some things should not fall down. It does happen to mess up one’s attempt at a good photograph though!
The Edinburgh Castle
Built on a rocky precipice, or crag, and overlooking the city is the Edinburgh Castle.
It is adjoined to the city via the Royal Mile, a street with shops, monuments and other stores that lead back to the ancient city.
The castle is a great thing to see and has many rooms and other historical artifacts that one can enjoy. Notwithstanding, the views of Edinburgh and the harbor are magnificent.
Many of the exhibits displayed in the castle have, of course, a military overtone. Which unfortunately in many cultures, clouds and even colors our view of the past. In some cases making it more romantic than it actually was.
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The above slide show is provided to give some appreciation to the myriad of military displays and exhibits one can find in the castle.
One jewel amongst all this military might is Saint Margaret’s Church. A quaint little abode which eventually fell within the confines of the castle. It is the oldest structure within the surrounding area and is still used today, although it had many uses in the past.
Greyfriars
If you are looking for more churches or cemeteries, there is Greyfriars. Not far from our hotel, it has some lovely grounds on which you can walk, if you are looking for that nice quiet afternoon stroll.
Greyfriars Bobby
Right across the street from Greyfriars, is the bar and restaurant, Greyfriars Bobby. Named after the dog who ostensibly stood over his master’s grave for fourteen years after he died, the restaurant offers typical Scottish fare, as well as food for tourist (e.g. hamburgers, fries, etc.)
History Walks and Ghost Tours
Mercat Tours
Mercat Tours holds a fairly good tour of the underground caverns, called History Walk and Ghost Tours.
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Though a bit long and having questionable facts, well we are talking ghosts, it was fairly well presented, entertaining and reasonably priced at 13£ per person. And although it was a bit dark down there, we had a good time anyways.
The Real Mary King’s Close Tour
Again, a tour that takes not only below, but above-grounds as well, to show the terrible living conditions in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Unfortunately, this tour does not allow for photographs, its history is a bit more vague, but it does have a more elaborate Close tour layout and exhibits. If I were to pick one, I would probably pick this one, though it definitely has a more obvious touristy quality to it. The ticket will run you around 16 to 20£ per person, children are less.
The Edinburgh City Museum
This museum is free, except for what ever special exhibits they are having at the time. There is a special floor and area for these and the tickets can be purchased on the ground floor.
We found the first and third floors to be the most informative. Favoring the Life Sciences, Astronomy and Scottish history above the other areas.
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For a rainy afternoon, and there are many in Scotland, a very good choice to learn something and stay dry. It’s actually very good for families since there are numerous hands-on exhibits for children to interact with and learn.
Tomorrow it’s off again, this time to Inverness. We are just hoping for a moderation in the weather for good travels. Till then, later..!
A trip from Winchester to Salisbury, where the Salisbury Cathedral is located, and not much further from there the famous Stonehenge, requires you, if you are taking the train, to go to Southampton first, then back up to Salisbury; a round trip that will cost you a bit over an hour’s time and nearly 19£/round-trip.
Salisbury Cathedral
The cathedral in Salisbury apparently contains a few things of note. First it possesses the tallest spire for any church in England. It is also quite unique in that it also possesses a double transept, which can be seen in the main photograph above.
Secondly, it houses one of the copies of the Magna Carta, a vital historic document important to anyone who believes in democracy.
Salisbury
Salisbury, pronounced salzbury, is a quaint little city, somewhat larger and a bit busier than its cousin to the east, Winchester. It contains many, what would appear to Americans as typical colonial looking houses and shops. One cannot therefore help to compare places in the New England area of the United States with it.
While visiting, we saw one Roman Gate, the High Street Gate. Originally there were some fives gates around the city, though we only found evidence of the one surviving.
Since our visit coincided with lunch, we found and ate at the Red Lion Hotel. They have a simple menu and drinks, but enough for one to get full and back out exploring.
Stonehenge
This is my second visit to Stonehenge and the surrounding area remains just as beautiful as I remember it. Though it was still threatening to rain, it was a bit warmer this time. There is not much else to say about the place other than you have to visit it. It’s amazing that neolithic man could have erected something like this, for whatever reasons, with the little technology they had at the time.
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Once you are done photographing and exploring the stones, there is a visitor center where you can learn more and get some refreshments. Though it cost us the good part of a day, it’s definitely worth the trip!
Another day in London and more to see. Before we left, our daughter Meagan purchased the 3-day London Pass. The pass is a bit pricey, but gets you into loads of Museums, Memorials, Churches and many other places. This includes, the Churchill War Rooms, HMS Belfast, the Shard, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and many others. So we thought it might be a good buy.
Churchill War Rooms
If you have any interest at all how the British and their Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, survived and ultimately helped win the war, then you have to see his war rooms.
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As can be imagined, London itself is teaming with memorials from all of its wars. This one however is amazing, because it impresses upon the visited some of the effort, at the highest levels, it took to fight a war on a global scale.
England was not only fighting the Germans, but also the Japanese, who invaded their southeast Asian colonies as well.
During those times both England and America saw the need for direct communications and arrange a phone system to stretch completely across the Atlantic Ocean. A feat we take for granted today.
The War Rooms are full of interactive venues where you can take your time to read, explore and learn about the man who took England through one of the most dangerous and dark times in its history.
The HMS Belfast
As promised in my earlier post, we did indeed have the occasion to board the HMS Belfast. Again, it’s part of the London Pass and allows you to roam a WWII era British Cruiser.
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Since we have already discussed the ship in Part One, we give you a slide show of the ship as you can explore and see it.
And if you are looking for enemies, well I imagine this baby can still find ’em..! [Joke: it’s only a prop]
Eating
If you are ever in London and looking for a place to eat, there are of course as you can imagine, thousands to choose from. We have eaten at the following restaurants and can recommend them all highly.
The Wolseley
We had a brunch here and the atmosphere, perhaps a take on old empire England with Oriental panels, was unique.
The food was everything, from the usual simple English breakfast fare, to the more exotic dishes with fish, animal organs, etc. However, they have bacon and eggs and their egg omelets are great too!
The Hawksmoor Seven Dials
I have no idea how they derived this name, so do not ask. However, if you are looking for a good steak, this is the place to go, a carnivores heaven.
The food prices here are, as expected, a bit on the high side, but not as high as some of the wine. There are only a few entries in the wine list under 50£. For example, the Chateau de Beaucastel above, went for 165£. So bring your plastic, or plenty of cash.
The Ivy
This is perhaps my favorite. A cozy place that serves several different and interesting kinds of fare, backed up by a reasonably priced wine list.
The atmosphere here is just great, since the architecture of the building is a triangle; there are stained glass windows all around you. The bar is the centerpiece and very well done, surrounded by tables with small lamps on them, reminiscent of something out of a by-gone era. Highly recommended!
Some time ago, probably during the hot days of Summer, we decided it might be a good idea to visit Londonpre-Brexit. Not so much to say that we remember when London was part of the European Union (EU), but more that we expect with the forthcoming travel restrictions it will become so what more difficult to enter and exit, and also expect prices for commodities there, like real Scotch Whiskey, to become more expensive over time.
Our Hotel
We are staying at the Conrad, ostensibly a five-star Hilton Hotel. However, I must say, after being here for less than a day I would say it’s more of a 4.5 star hotel (it’s the little things you know).
Eating
For our first night, we naively walked into the Colosseo Italian Restaurant figuring we would get something small, like a soup and salad, or something similar. I know, we just got off the plane from Turin and we went to an Italian restaurant! Oh well, that reminds me I have a longing for Chinese food too. But I digress.
For our night stroll, we chose to head down to Big Ben, even though we know it’s still shrouded, due to the renovations going on. For now we leave you with some photographs of our leisurely walk.
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We will be in England for some time, so please look forward to many more posts! Until then, CHEERS!
This is our final post about Nice, which we must say was very enjoyable and at times interesting. There are no doubts there are better places to go for a lazy or leisurely holiday. But few can offer the night-life, culture and coastal pleasures than the Côte d’Azur and Nice can. If we were to come back, it would be during the beginning of Summer, so that we could enjoy the beaches a bit more, though probably not in Nice, since they are quite rocky here.
Asian Restaurants
There are several good Asian restaurants in and around the vicinity of the railway station. Though we did not have time to try them all, two of our favorites were Restaurant China for simple Chinese and Thai fair, and Les Baguettes d’Argent for Vietnamese. On one of our last nights in Nice, we visited the latter and were very happy with all of our meals.
Nice At Night
There is nothing like strolling a boardwalk along a beach. With its throng of people from all over the world and businesses, it can be a very enjoyable experience during a vacation or holiday. This is definitely the case in Nice, which has an extraordinarily long boardwalk in the shape of a large crescent.
Here are some additional parting photographs from our walk along the beach. We were especially lucky to have a full moon greet us as we walked, as well as perfect evening temperatures.
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Conclusion
A very nice place to vacation. Depending on what your plans are, the area offers a variety of things you can do. It is no doubt a gambler’s paradise, so if you are a gambler, drinker and eater, here is a prime spot. The area also has a fairly high number of hotels, so depending on your budget you should be able to, more or less, pick what you want; but I would book in advance since while we were here the Ironman Championship was being held and rooms were scarce.
The people we encountered were very nice and helpful. Even the hotel and restaurant staff, we found to be very attentive. We infrequently ran into any language barrier. Most people in the area seem to have some knowledge of English, most likely due to the high influx of tourists to the area. But, have your smart phone at the ready just in case.
On Another Note
We did however find the city itself a bit dirty, not in the normal sense of a city, but dirty (think N.Y.C. in the 1960’s), even if you overlook the dog excrement all over. For a tourist area, this is unfortunate and even though we do not live here, we do not like to see it either.
The French love their dogs and apparently their dog excrement as well, since they do not appear to do much about it. I guess it’s a societal issue. I always thought that the main reason in developed societies for installing plumbing was to remove the excrement from the streets to prevent disease, etc.; I guess I may be wrong(?) I did however see one municipality trying a solution, the Poop Patrol. Apparently Antibes is trying a motorcycle outfitted with a vacuum attachment to suck up any dastardly dog remains. The container on the rear (see above photograph) even has Bio-Hazard warnings on it. I found it funny, a bit ridiculous, but all-in-all probably necessary. I don’t think the French are going to change their habits about dogs anytime soon.
With that, we leave you for now until next time when we will be exploring London and Scotland. Until then…
Where to start, especially when visiting the most densely populated place on Earth? I guess for us, that would be the SNCF train station, which is about a 30 minute ride from Nice. In Monaco,it drops you off in a tunnel, like other places we enjoyed in Cinque Terre, Italy. So like there, we had to walk a long tunnel and climb some stairs to finally emerge and enjoy our destination.
Monaco Harbor
Once you start walking, you can tell that space here is at a premium. Even the sidewalks are not as generously proportioned as other places that we have visited.
Within ten minutes or so, we found ourselves walking along the Avenue de la Quarantaine. Viewing the port, which when compared with photographs of the 1970s, was crammed with watercraft of all sizes.
On the point where you need to take a right and walk along the coast, is a theatre called the Theatre du Fort Antoine. Though very nice, with an almost modern appeal, it is not considered a cultural spot for the city. Proceeding along the Digue de L’Avant Port, you walk directly toward the institute.
Also known as the Oceanographic Institute of Monaco;Â a rather impressive building from the sea. The former study and laboratory for Jacques-Ives Cousteau and his adventures, is itself also responsible for introducing some of the invasive species now threatening the Mediterranean Sea — via the unconscionable practice of flushing unwanted biological organisms down the toilet or drain, as practiced in other developed countries as well.
The Institute is well fitted to handle a large number of visitors with underground parking, that accommodates large buses and escalators to assist all, up to the ticket lobby. One must first pass multiple shops and other facilities, before entering the institute to enjoy the museum and/or aquarium.
The Museum
It is divided into two equally impressive multi-level rooms which contain a very large selection of specimens, stories and artifacts from the natural world, encompassing the globe.
The large main hall has a very large wall display meant to be offered as a shadowbox of significant developments in oceanography, which happily includes the Calypso.
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With specific emphasis on the oceans and their habitats, the collection also includes some archeological specimens in the form of fossils and replication of prehistoric animals. These are used as a pedagogical device and comparison to present day species which are on display here.
One can find one of two displays on deep-sea creatures as well, which are interesting to see, even if it is in a petrified state.
There is also a section detailing the scientific devices and methods used in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s.
Outside, there is apparently the first submarine Cousteau used early in his career.
It took us a little over an hour to complete the museum, which we did before seeing the aquarium.
The Aquarium
I have been to many aquariums, but I must say this one ranks up at the top five for sure. Not only for the breath and depth of species they have, but also the specimens and facilities are very well-kept. All the animals appear quite normal in behavior and have more than sufficient space to enjoy what surroundings they have been given.Â
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There are a few large main tanks which host a myriad of species and most of the large predators, including sharks.
The rare species that they do have, include the Cuttlefishand the Nautilis. With the Cuttlefish, you definitely get the feeling that this animal is not only looking back at you, but that there is also some analysis going on as well — definitely an intelligent species.
My favorites are unfortunately the ones I used to have in fish tanks. The Emperor Angelfish, Hippo Tang and Copperbanded Butterfly fish stand out to me to be some of the most interesting and beautiful specimens.
But, the Damselfish are also great to view, with their luminescent blue and their proclivity for darting back and forth.
Even with the current onslaught against the Amazon, there are also Piranha here too. One can only wonder when this species will be threatened too, if not already.
Seahorse are one of the more popular attractions, most likely because they are so different from all of the normal or bony fishes. But then again, what is a normal fish?
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Eating In Monaco
After our long visit at the institute, it was time to get something to eat. Not but a five-minute walk away, we found Restaurant L’Aurora.
This is another restaurant that will remind those who travel along the coast of France and Italy of Niçose style. The menu offers a fusion of French and Italian dishes. It is sometimes unclear in the Côte d’Azur, if you are eating French or Italian; either will claim the dishes and cuisine are theirs! However, this is a good restaurant. The food was very good and the staff very accommodating. I had the blue plate special, just one selection of which there were many.
Monte Carlo
Not far from the train station, perhaps a 20 minute walk away, is Monte Carlo. Having come this far we pushed forward up the hill and up to Monte Carlo to see what, if anything, it was all about.
Our initial impression was no one lives here, all we saw were tourists. If one took the tourists away, then no one would be walking around. Obviously, just a playground for the filthy rich. Even the sidewalks are tiled and run perfectly to adjoin all the buildings where they meet. I saw no homeless people.
Almost every store and door has a doorman; there are security personnel walking around everywhere. You get the distinct impression that whether you live here or not, you are suspected at all times.
The Casino de Monte Carlo is perhaps the only architecturally significant building in this area. Though a bit ostentatious, it has a certain appeal, even for those not expecting it.
Not much to see from the outside and there is a considerable piazza outside, probably doubling as a parking lot for important occasions. Not interested in the inside, no relation of ours, we took our photographs and left for other sites.
Conclusion
Though I found the city-state interesting, I have no wish to live there; it appears devoid of real life.
Freiheit liebe ich und die Luft über frischer Erde; lieber noch will ich auf Ochsenhäuten schlafen, als auf ihren Würden und Achtbarkeiten.
Ich bin zu heiss und verbrannt von eigenen Gedanken: oft will es mir den Athem nehmen. Da muss ich in’s Freie und weg aus allen verstaubten Stuben.
The old city is some 15 to 20 minute walk along the Avenue de le Liberation, Avenue Paul Arène and Boulevard d’Aguillon.
Antibes is not as impressive as some of the other towns and cities you will find along this famous coast, but we found that it has its own kind of charm.
It has many narrow side streets filled with shops and a very large plaza, Place Nationale, where vendors of all kinds sell different things. While we were there, a market similar to one we would call a flea market in the States, was in full swing. Everything from furniture to estate items were offered for sale.
The old city is also a great place to just wander along street to street. Turning a corner you never know what you may find. In some small streets there are still old-style electric wires on glass insulators, a throw-back no doubt of the 1950’s or 60’s.
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Additional areas we wander through are shown above, enjoy.
Where To Eat
As with most tourist spots, there are plenty of places to eat and there are some tourists here; no doubt drawn here for the same reasons we went, Picasso.
On the tip of the main plaza, Place Nationale, just around the corner on Rue Sade, is Le Chaudron. After a quick survey of what was available outside, we choose it because of its menu and decor. It turned out to be a cozy little place with good food.
All in all with the addition of the museum stop we consider Antibes a very nice place to visit. It one of the remaining if not the last active working port on this coast so you will also see plenty of maritime shops and stores as well as those for tourists.
The building was purchase in 1925 by the city of Antibes to become what was known then as the Grimaldi Museum. Picasso actually spent time here in 1946 and used it as a workshop. He subsequently made a very generous donation to the museum, some of which were even created there.
The exhibit is impressive and contains many of his works from his 1946 period. There is probably something here for every taste but the main themes nudes and shellfish (apparently inspired by the meals he partook while there).
There are also several photographs of the artist along with text and one can also purchase an audio guide for the entire collection.
Note: Aside from the sculptor if there is any interest at all in me providing captions for the works below, then please send me a review with your request. I will also remove this comment after I have done so. Enjoy!
A small triangle of the city of Niceexists, what was originally the old city. If one were to trace it on a map, they would start from the Petit Train monument along the coast, then around Castle Hill, down the Promenade du Paillon (which actually is a covered up old river) and back to the monument. Within this triangle, the visitor will notice the streets are ever so narrower and older, this is the old city.
The best thing to do here, is just take a half a day, usually around lunch so you can enjoy one of the many restaurants. There are also plenty of shops and other tourist venues you can visit, to satisfy any knickknack itch you may have.
We walked along the Promenade, up to Giuseppe Garibaldi Square, then to Castle Hill and made our way back down the hill to visit the old city, after having lunch of course.
Niçose Cuisine
In Nice some of the best restaurants to visit specialize in the Niçose style of cooking. This is a blend of French and Italian influences that go back many generations. They offer daily specials and usually an adequate, if not great selection of French and Italian wines.
Restaurant Voyageur
One very good restaurant that is the epitome of Niçose style, is Restaurant Voyageur. Not only is the food great, but the service is very good and they understand English very well.
Restaurant Saëtone
Another very good restaurant is Saëtone. This one is rather small, so you must get there early if you hope to get a seat for lunch. They usually have a very dedicated lunch crowd and every chair and table will be full by the time lunch hour is in full swing.
Both of these are situated on Rue d’Alsace-Lorraine. Of course, before heading out always check the times for when they are open and have a backup plan. You can always get there to find the restaurant to be closed, for whatever strange reason. We found the Voyageur to be the more dependable of the two.
Museum Marc Chagall
A short walk from our hotel is the National Museum of Marc Chagall. We had to take a circuitous route via the Avenue Biassini to get there, but it wasn’t too much of a problem. If you are walking, it is on a hill, so keep that in mind.
The entrance fee for the museum is at this time 10€, so we bought tickets for two plus one (Ericka).
The works by Chagall include most of his Bible-inspired works, including Noah’s Ark, Descent from the Cross and Adam and Eve Expelled from Paradise.
There is also the blue rose testing window that was created for his work, for the Metz Cathedral.
In a far corner, there is also a wonderful mosaic across a reflecting pond, where one can quietly sit in the room and contemplate the mandala.
Of course, the best and my personal favorites are the blue stained glass windows. These are fantastic and remind me of the stained glass windows of Saint Stephan’s Church in the Altstadt of Mainz, Germany.
While we were in Nice this young visual artist and movie maker had some very interesting displays. Some may not like his artistic talents, since they usually display less color and movements, and may appear almost machine-like. But those who enjoy movies and computer games with a dystopian twist will probably be captivated by them. What follows has been broken up to make just one of the videos I saw there easier to upload.
Sitting less than two miles from Nice is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a mere walk away. Since this little port town is also part of the Côte d’Azur SNCF train system, we decided to do just that, one sunny day. We took a walk over the Mont Boron and took the train back.
Walking From Nice
If you are lucky enough to visit this quaint little town on the sea while no cruise ship is in the bay, then you would be as lucky as we were the day we decided to walk there from Nice. A frequent stop of cruise ships Villefranche-sur-Mer is the most used cruise ship docking port in France. Luckily we were spared both the site and the influx of tourists that accompanies such an ocurrence.
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From the old city of Nice, we ascended Mont Boron, which I must say is much higher on the side of Fort du Mont Alban than we experienced on Castle Hill, Mont Boron’s smaller cousin. However, there are very good paths that switchbacks all the way up to help you with the ascent.
Fort du Mont Alban
The fort from the outside appears to be a four-sided bastion fort. Made entirely of stone, it stands impressively on top of the mountain. Unfortunately, entrance cannot be gained and it appears to be closed. Â There are no indications that it has ever been opened to the public.
With the exception of walking up the front stairs to the main door, there appear to be no other entrances on the other sides.
After getting our fill of the view from this vantage point, our walk to Villefranche-sur-Mer continued by finding the path to the town about a hundred meters to the left, leaving the fort. On your map, this path may be called the Chemin du Fort du Mont Alban.
The path starts off easily without much slope, but it progressively gets steeper and less developed the further down you go, until you finally hit the town itself. So, care should be taken.
The Town On The Sea
From the path you will exit via a walkway to the Avenue du Fort. Since we were thirsty and starting to get hungry, we followed our noses down and finally found the Avenue du Marechal Foch. We found a cafe there for a quick drink. Â Then it was off to find a restaurant. Ericka found one overlooking the water called Mayssa Beach. A good pick, great service, excellent view and good food at a reasonable price.
After haven eaten and relaxed a bit, we decided to walk the Quai de l’Amiral Courbet. The town is actually quite small and has very narrow streets. Enjoy the following photographs from this little gem on the coast.