restaurants – Page 14 – Tickets For Two Plus Baggage

30 July, 2019

Avigliana – A Valley Jewel

A short trip by train just outside and to the west of Turin lies Avigliana, a medieval town some would call a small city. However, regardless of its size, it is charming nonetheless.

TurinToAvigliana — Turin Porta Nouva to Avigliana via Trenitalia

TrainStation_Avigliana_July2019 — Avigliana Train Station

We arrived on a picture perfect day with only a few clouds hovering over the mountains to the North and West and no threat of rain whatsoever in sight.

SacraDiSanMichele_Avigliana_July2019 — Abbey Sacra di San Michele

As soon as we left the train station we could see the Abbey Sacra di San Michele perched on the Monte Pirchiriano to the West. From Avigliana this is also an easy sight to visit if you are traveling by car. However, even if you are traveling by train and on foot it is also possible if you have the time. It lies some ten kilometers from town and has history that dates back to the tenth century. Our trip centered more on the historic part of town and visiting the lakes, which promised to be magnificent.

Our ascent to the town was along a more or less direct route from the train station. Instead of following the signs near the train station, we walked via San Giuseppe to via Porta Ferrata. Once you reach the fork in the road take the right branch which will bring you to the Church of Santa Croce and an uncommon overlook of the Susa Valley. Coming back down and continuing a bit further we came across the Porta Ferrata, an old medieval gate that dates back to the 13th century.

PrattoDelRio_MtMusine_Avigliana_July2019 — Panoramic view from the overlook at the Church of Santa Croce

We had now spent a little over an hour walking through the narrow streets and alleys, exploring those little areas that afforded us access. From the spine of the hill on which the town sits, one can get some great photographs of the mountains, including historic landmarks.

TorreDiOrologio_ParrochiaSSGiovanniEPietro_Avigliana_July2019 — From via Dell’Orologio the Torre dell’Orologio and cupola of the Parrochia SS. Giovanni e Pietro

From the via dell’Orologio we quickly descended the historic center of town to make our way to the lakes. (It is best before you leave to download any maps as well as familiarize yourself with your overall route. We found cellular service in the town a bit spotty, so if you are addicted to travel-by-phone only, you may run into difficulties and feel lost at times.) However, if you are lucky enough to find the main road, via Garibaldi that leads to Corso Laghi, you are all set; the maar lakes are South on that road.

LagoGrande_Avigliana_July2019 — Lago Grande di Avigliana

After about a fifteen or twenty-minute walk we came across the first lake, Lago Grande, meaning “large lake”. The term maar comes from the fact that both of these lakes are essentially volcanic craters. The volcanoes are of course extinct, but since the lava domes they once had have collapsed, the depressions have filled with water making these amazing lakes. The green tint comes from a mixture of mountain glacier runoff and algae. However they got there, on a beautiful sunny day they are just amazing to see and enjoy.

Residents must enjoy the peace the lakes and mountains offer them since it appears that no motorboats are allowed on the them, only sailboats and others that require human power. We also witnessed several people swimming the width of the large lake which must be close to one kilometer. There is also a diving school on the East bank of the large lake where you can take diving lessons. Though we were within a short walk to the smaller lake we decided not to go, We had both walked over three miles and were starting to get a bit tired.

GriffinPatricia_LagoGrande_Avigliana_Juli2019 — Patti enjoying the weather and a rest from all of our walking

The stroll back into town took another twenty or so minutes and we were now both hungry and looking for something to eat. We had thought about eating somewhere along the lake, but none of the restaurant menus there appealed to us. So we headed for the main piazza in town, piazza Conte Rosso.

ParrocchiaSSGiovanniEPietro_Avigliana_July2019 — Chiesa de San Giovanni

Retracing our route back to the piazza and up the long street stairs of via Garibaldi we see the Church of San Giovanni from under the Porta San Giovanni. The church stands there almost confused that it is no longer held up on the one side by a building that most likely once stood there. It most likely had been torn down centuries ago, but the scars from its lost companion are still obvious in the relentless sun. The facade, which one must say is somewhat unique, dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and seems to borrow from several styles.

PiazzaConteRosso_Castello_Avigliana_July2019 — Piazza Conte Rosso

Piazza Conte Rosso is a working piazza, with cars co-mingling with pedestrians. From here one can see the ruins of the old castle on the hill, Castello di Avigliana. There are also several caffés and bars here, as well as the restaurant, San Michele.

RistoranteStMichele_Avigliana_July2019 — Ristorante San Michele

The food at Ristorante San Michele is very good and moderately expensive. There are daily specials and several dishes that are unique to the Piedmont. They also serve bio wine which is environmentally friendly, from the Piedmont, quite unique and is very, very good!

If you are in the area of the Piedmont or Turin and have a few hours or a day extra, then Avigliana might be a very relaxing choice for you. There is definitely enough to see and do, you can rent boats on the lakes and swim, and there is more than enough to eat and drink.

Here are some other photographs, enjoy!

18 June, 201918 June, 2019

Rivoli – Simple Pleasures

After reading several reviews and actually knowing someone in the states that has the last name Rivoli, my wife and I decided on a road trip today to that namesake.

From Turin‘s Porta Nuova (Turin‘s main train station) we traveled using Trenitalia‘s service to Susa (not to be confused with Porta Susa in Turin), getting off at Alpignano. Then after going under the railroad tracks using the tunnel, since we were disembarked on track 2, we took the GTT 1432 bus from Piazza Tulio Robotti for eight to ten minutes to Rivoli at Fermata 13264 on via Don Murialdo.

BemahltesHäuser_Rivoli_2019 — The narrow streets of Rivoli

Once you step off the bus and find your bearings you begin to realize that you need to ascend a hill, your ultimate destination being the old Savoia Castel and new Museum of Contemporary Art. Passing many shops and colorful buildings, some needing ownerships, others busy with activity, you slowing ascend the via Fratelli Piol, or main street.

The city itself is actually very well-kept, like other Piedmontese, they obviously have some pride in keeping their community clean. I admit it must be a struggle for them as well as other communities, from what we’ve seen, but this seems not to deter them. The Europeans as a whole still seem to feel they have a right to just pollute and it will not affect them (I will write another article, specific to Turin, on this later), even though they vote and their government seems to do otherwise.

ChiesaSantaCroce_Rivoli_2019 — Chiese Santa Croce

After some walking, browsing and curious on looking into shop windows, one will arrive at a fork in the road and clearly see the Church of Santa Croce. A cinnamon and stout marvel of Christianity. With a mural of Christ with his cross above the large wooden doors, but no longer owned by the Catholic Church, but rather the Res Publica – Galleria d’Arte Democratica for art exhibitions and shows.

GrandeRistoranteDelCastello_Rivoli_2019 — The Old Grande Ristorante del Castello

Upon reaching the top of the hill you arrive at the old castle, or the Castello di Rivoli. Built by the Savoia and houses the Museum of Contemporary Art it is well worth the travel and the climb.

It commands an amazing view of the surrounding area as well as Turin and other parts of Rivoli itself.

bersichtTorinoVonDerCastello_Rivoli_2019 — A view of Turin afar, as viewed on a smoggy day from the Castle

When one faces the East North East one also enjoys an amazing view of the Alps too!

bersichtDenAlpen_Rivoli_2019 — A semi-clear view of the Alps, yes they are close here

I will admit the day was somewhat warm and humid.

bersichtKircheUndTorino_Rivoli_2019 — Another view with Chiesa Collegiata di Santa Maria della Stella

However, compared to North Carolina standards, at fifty percent humidity, it was not totally intolerable. We would therefore call this a warm day, though uncomfortable. Some other sites on our descent included the following.

It was time to eat, being both hungry and a bit dehydrated from the climb, we searched for a place that served both simple but filling fare. We found the Caffé Roxy where we were able to order what we call in the States, flat breads with salami, drinks (both wine and water) as well as dessert, caffe and aperitif, all for 24€. Not a bad deal and the service was excellent as well!

RoxyCafe_Rivoli_2019 — Caffé Roxy on the way up to the castle

After a full stomach and enough shopping we had had our fill of Rivoli and it was time to leave. This is where we caution everyone about the deplorable state of some of the fermatas or bus stops in Italy, you just cannot read some of them or they are CLEARLY WRONG. Pay attention to the numbers that are marked on them. The information that your internet application has is probably correct. Also, do NOT have an expectation of bus color or that you will see a bus number when it approaches, ALWAYS ASK THE DRIVER, especially when you are in an out-of-the-way place. It will make your life so much easier, though a bit uncomfortable (since you will have to use your limited Italian.)

TicketsForTwo_Rivoli_2019_skaliert — Tickets for Two

After crossing Corso Francia multiple times between Fermata 2794 and 2823 and feeling like fools, we finally caught the bus we wanted for Alpignano, albeit on the wrong side of that street.

We finally arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare, stamped our tickets, and waited for our train, which of course was five minutes late – but, it did arrive! Buona giornata!

13 June, 201923 August, 2020

Turin – Piolas – Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini

CaffeViniEmilioRanzini_6_tiny — The Menu

Occasionally, you come across a restaurant, caffe or bar which just hits all the buttons correctly. For us this occurred last evening at Caffe Vini Emilio Ranzini.

I don’t want to call this place a hole in the wall, but that is the first impression a foreigner, an American, will have. All in all it might measure twenty by thirty feet inside, sixty or seventy square feet maximum, including the bar. But, the food is unmatched by other restaurants much larger in size. So, either there is a huge kitchen somewhere we could not see, or the chef is a magician.

To be honest, there is an outdoor patio in the back where they are able to seat perhaps another forty or so guests. We were fortunate this evening to get our own table inside next to the door and near the bar, to watch all the comings and goings (people watching is an acceptable hobby in Italy.)

A Piola Menu

As can be seen by the rather large display above, the menu is displayed on the wall. This is typical for a Piola, a Torinese-style restaurant that has daily offers of food at reasonable prices (or in Italian, a termine piemontese dal significato di osteria, bar).

CaffeViniEmilioRanzini_4 — Tagliere of Salumi and Formaggi, along with other great stuff to eat

For our dinner we selected the Salami and Cheese plate for two. To accompany this, we also ordered the vinegar roasted zucchini squash, roasted peppers and Polpette di Carni (or hot meatballs).

The meat tasted as one would expect, a nice selection of salami and prosciutto. The cheese selection was very good, especially the blue cheese which reminded us of a Stilton and the other whiter cheese above which reminded us of a sharp white cheddar.

CaffeViniEmilioRanzini_5 — Nizza, San Luigi, 2015 – DOCG

The meatballs and zucchini were to die for. It was actually difficult to tell what kind of meat, were in the meatballs (and frankly we were afraid to ask since horsemeat is an acceptable meat in Italy.) But, the spices and the particular way in which they were cooked (it looked like deep-frying but not sure it was), was very tasty. The squash on the other hand was served cold, but the vinegar gave it such a pop in your mouth, you wanted to order more.

The Wine

This specific place also sports a rather nice wine list. Since we were looking for something red to pair with the meatballs, salami and cheese, we went with a nice Barbera. The Nizza from San Luigi, 2015 was an excellent choice. Dry and aromatic with fruity overtones of cherry, it combined very nicely with our meal. A wine which is sure on my short list of choices when I visit my local wine store in the future!

In Conclusion

Though it was our evening out to celebrate our 37th anniversary, we had expected to spend a bit more. So, when the bill came and it came to a total of 37€, we were delightfully surprised. Not only because we thought it so inexpensive, but that we got such good food and atmosphere at such an affordable and reasonable price.

CaffeViniEmilioRanzini_1 — The bar at Caffe Vivi Emilio Ranzini

We are sure the menu changes often, weekly at least, perhaps even daily. Our plans are to go back for lunch. One word of caution. They do have Summer hours (9:30-2:30, 5:30-8:30) starting in June, which are reduced from the hours posted on Google. However, we would recommend this place for either lunch or dinner and it’s just two blocks off of via Garibaldi!

5.0 stars!

30 May, 201930 May, 2019

Asti – A Relaxing Little Town

AstiKarte_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — A Map of Asti

Upon arrival and leaving the local train station a map of Asti, strategically located for those visiting the tiny city, greets all. It is actually quite informative and gives anyone a good overview of the local points of interest. However in order to have seen the map above one probably also missed the pedestrian tunnel to cross the busy intersection to town from the train station, we did!

Asti_PiazzaStatuto_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza Statuto

If you bear to the left after the traffic circle and upon entering the town one of the first sites and piazzas, like any other typical Italian town, is the Piazza Statuto. A quaint little piazza in what I would call a lazy and relaxing little town.

Asti_PiazzaSanSecundo_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza San Secondo – left view

Piazza San Secondo by contrast is a much larger piazza and is ringed with some shopping, if you are inclined to do any shopping while here. In the background popping up over the rooftops one can also see the top of the Torre Troyana.

Asti_PiazzaSanSecundo_2_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza San Secondo – right view

Of course the dominant building in this piazza is a catholic church for which the piazza is named after, the church San Secondo. A short walk down the small street directly across from the piazza takes you to the Torre Troyana.

Asti_TorreTroyana_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Piazza Medici and the Troyan Clock Tower

The Piazza Medici Asti has the historical Torre Troyana o dell’Orologio. Originally started in the 12th century it was eventually bought by the Troya family and finished. Later the municipality of Asti purchased the tower and annexed it to the neighboring government building. As some point a clock was added, probably inside since I saw no evidence of one on the exterior of the building.

Asti_viaPellettaTowardsPiazzaSanSecundo_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — via Pelletta, looking toward the San Secondo church

If you are ever traveling in Italy and are tired of all the crowds of tourists, Asti should be one of your stops. Not that I like to encourage tourism, but if you are looking for a lazy day of strolling around unaffected by the hordes of international travelers this could be a good one day stop for you too. As can be seen by the photograph above the town’s side streets offer a relaxing substitute from some of the busier places around Italy.

Restaurant Le Teste di Rapa

Lunch in Asti offers many possibilities, from regional pizza and focaccia to enoteca and restaurant fusions offering great wines and food. After reading several menus on the street and walking around a bit, we decided on Le Teste di Rapa.

This restaurant offers no outside seating but is rather large inside and has both a downstairs and an upstairs. It also draws a very large local lunch crowd, so it is probably best to get there a bit early, between 12 to 12:30, especially if you have a train to catch or other time constraint. The locals seem to show up around one o’clock and for what we saw pack the place in pretty well.

Asti_BarberaDAsti_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Bertolino – a great Barbera d’Asti Superiore

The regional wines are the best to try and there is a wide selection. Though Asti is known for Asti Spumante, there are also other great varietals if you are not up for something bubbly. One of which are the Barberas. They go very well with rich food, in my case a dish of Italian meatballs and in Patti’s the daily special of eggplant parmesan. Both dishes were excellent and served with a fresh local white bread.

Asti_TesteDiRapa_Patti_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Patti outside the restaurant

The Palio di Asti

Once we left the restaurant we had another fifty minutes or so to spend and decided we had time to stroll over to see if there was anything interesting around Asti’s Palio (the less well-known cousin of the one in Siena.)

Asti_PiazzaCampoDelPalio_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten

The Palio here is of course a ringed street, that is it goes around in a complete loop, an essential requirement if you are having any kind of race. Though less well-known, Asti’s horse race also goes way back to the thirteen century. A main difference one can see between this venue and the one in Siena is the Asti version has a central piazza encircled by a walkway and a double row of trees. During most of the year this piazza apparently supports a small outside market. Nowhere as busy or large as the one in Turin, but offering the same kind of goods one expects to find at such a market with very reasonable prices as well.

Asti Train Station – Back to Turin

We finally made it back at the train station, taking the pedestrian tunnel this time, around twenty minutes to three.

AstiHauptBahnhof_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Asti train station and platforms

The trip between Asti and Turin P.N. (Porta Nuova) is just over thirty minutes with only one stop in between just outside of Turin. Otherwise the trip is totally second class at €5.25 one way per person, so do not expect to be able to purchase a first class ticket. But seats are comfortable and plentiful in both directions. The views outside the train are a bit better than traveling toward Milan and points East.

AstiToTurin_Returning_29052019_skaliert_abgeschnitten — Poppies and the bucolic Italian countryside

In any case a very relaxing and lazy day for an excursion to Asti and one destination worth the visit if you have the time, if only for the food and wine! ???? Ciao for now.

3 May, 201923 August, 2020

Offenbach – A Diamond In The Rough

Venture far from Sachsenhausen or Süd-Frankfurt, or a short stop on your way to Hanau (for whatever reason that may be), you will find the small city of Offenbach. One can say it’s one of those towns or cities that most resembles the new Germany, pluralistic, cosmopolitan and apparently an up-and-coming place. Our daughter lives here and has re-acclimated herself to the bigger city life, than she was used to when she lived in Kassel.

Marktplatz

Though we have no photographs, mostly due to a certain ambivalence on my part, one can say this is where the action is. It has many modern stores, a main pedestrian zone for shopping and several trendy, economical and interesting places to eat. There is a U-Bahn stop here, which can be easily reached from Frankfurt’s Hauptbahnhof or main train station.

Other Areas

Around Offenbach’s Marktplatz, are many different areas for business and residential with the train station for the city slicing right through it. Though we use the Offenbacher Hauptbahnhof regularly, we have never considered looking for a place to eat near it. We were surprised to find a culinary gem not too far away!

ShauMAHL Restaurant

On a chilly, rainy evening with reservations for the Frankfurter Botschaft, we started our restaurant adventure on the Offenbacher Hauptbahnhof platform waiting for a DB train that would never arrive (perhaps another DB störung, they are famous for them as one of our previous blog articles describes; more on this in a later blog entry.)

Dismayed, we quickly canceled our current reservation and began a search for something comparable in the immediate area. We found ShauMAHL.

One would say a rather expensive restaurant. However, as the saying goes (and we are technically on vacation, even though retired ?), “in for a penny, in for a pound!”

Tristan and Ericka before enjoying their meal

They offer a fixed-priced menu which provides a very round selection, from fish, fowl to meat.

I selected the rabbit dish with green sauce which was excellent. Rabbit, rabbit meatballs, barley, ummmm, good.

For drink, I selected a nice regionally (Württemberg) produced red, Graf von Neipperg, merlot, 2015 (€79), very nice (I think I used the word ‘okay’ while trying it, much to the dismay of the waitress.) It has all the qualities of being a really good wine. But lest I go into wine snobbery, my bar (bar as in a high-jump bar, a bar to get over) is a 1986 or 1989 Chateau Lynch Bages, need I say more?

For dessert we chose whatever we were more inclined to eat, Erick the Apfelstrüdel, Patti and Ericka the ice cream and Tristan a coffee. Erick and Ericka still ordered an expresso with Sambuca straight-up.

For a rainy evening, an expensive (€410), though extraordinary find for a dismissed place like Offenbach.

4.8 Stars ??

26 April, 201923 August, 2020

Heidelberg – Cloudy And Rainy

After a beautiful evening in Heidelberg, Zeus decided it was time to change the weather on us.

Hence, when we woke up that morning, we were greeted by a driving rain. Nothing like the downpours we would get in North Carolina, but a steady, bone-chilling, 48 degree shower on our vacation (we’re calling it that now, not to feel too much like retirees.) That’s not too bad, the last time I visited, it was in the 20s and snowing!

Hans Thoma Platz the stop closest to our Gasthof

After our hotel hostess provided breakfast it was off to the Altstadt and the Heidelberg Castle.

The Altstadt

The Altstadt of Heidelberg is now essentially an outside mall, commercialized with all the latest trendy stores from all over the world. Its nothing the way I remember it from years ago.

The beginning of the Hauptstrasse, Heidelberg

Some of the restaurants look the same but there are many new coffee shops, cafes and contemporary stores that fill the Hauptstrasse. It begins with the Kaufhaus right after exiting Bismarkplatz.

And after walking over a kilometer or so, ends with a church or two or three and the castle.

The Heidelberg Castle

The Heidelberger Schloss, or castle, sits atop the hill overlooking the city.

From the Hauptstrasse it is a formidable structure. There are two ways to visit the castle. One may walk the serpentine street that has a number of switch-backs.

Its raining and I’m cold, two tickets for the train please!

Or one can pay the €8.00 fee to ride the funicular train up the hill which is better choice when it’s raining out, plus admission to the castle is included.

The castle looking towards the pharmacy museum

The castle contains the usual large room for the storage of goods in case the town was attacked. It also houses a pharmacy museum and the largest wooden wine cask in the world, able to hold 58,000 gallons of wine.

The cask was used back in the day when the town produced its own wine label.

The smaller cask holding 300 liters of wine

Recently, an effort was started by a local vitner, Jörg Clauer, to restart the production of a Heidelberg labeled wine using the smaller cask that is shown in the ante chamber to the largest one. In it, they have stored 300 liters of Pinot Noir, reviving the wine making tradition here.

Heidelberg Overlook

From the castle one gets a great view of Heidelberg and its environs.

To the west and north looking toward Weststadt and Bergheim.

Then the old Heidelberg bridge and the last part of the Altstadt.

Heidelberg is still a beautiful little city, full of shopping and some interesting things to see. Though I was a bit disappointed in some of the old shops that are missing, I still think it is worth a look, especially for those who have not experienced its charm yet.

Weinwirtschaft Alt Hendesse

Our second and last night here we ate at the Alt Hendesse restaurant which ostensibly is a Weinwirtschaft.

It could be the establishment used to be part of some wine production at some point in their history. But there is no evidence of any label or production by them on their current wine list.

Patti and Ericka waiting for their Aubergine dishes

However, the food was very good and satisfying. I can only say that for the short time we were there between 8 and 9 PM they were turning people away constantly. They actually somehow made room for us shuffling some locals around to other tables.

4.7 Stars ?

23 April, 201923 August, 2020

Munich – HB – Zwei Ein Halb Maß Bier

Nothing says München Hofbräuhaus or Munich like beer.

Not beer as it’s served in the states, but serious beer, always draft, helles or dunkeles, in mass quantities. Let’s just say after one of these babies, you shouldn’t drive. After two, you may need an alternate form of conveyance.

The Hofbräuhaus epitomizes large quantities of beer, brought quickly and consumed readily. Tristan, Ericka and I recommend the original which has a nice clean bitter taste that refreshes one’s thirst after a long walk.

Mustard – our two tickets to pretzel and beer heaven

It also goes well with one of the large pretzels that you may buy separately (about €3) which taste especially good with the mustard. The pretzels are so big that four can snack on them easily.

Tristan enjoying a liter (Mass) beer at the HB

The atmosphere inside is the typical bräuhaus arched ceiling that one would say gives it that special Bavarian gemütlichkeit. A German word used to express cozi- or hominess, or when one is warm and comfortable. That along with the 5-member brass ompa-band only adds to its charm.

Ahhh, good to the last drop, noch ein bitte!

The food is also very good. I tried the mixed salad, a Bratwürst on sauerkraut and potato salad and all were delicious.

Ericka and Patti tried the Bratwürst too, but with the mixed season vegetables and were pleasantly surprised when there was no meat in them.

We would consider the Hofbräuhaus a very tasty and necessary stop for anyone visiting Munich.

4.3 Stars ??

21 April, 201923 August, 2020

Munich – Schweinhaxe by the Frauenkirche

Tonight we enjoyed dinner at the Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom, that again offered the bratwurst platters and other regional specialities.

The restaurant lays at the foot of the Frauenkirche. It is of course kind of a tourist trap, but the food is good.

I ordered the Schweinhaxe and a side salad. The boiled dough is fairly heavy, so I could only eat one. But the meat was very good and the side salad has a potato salad surprise at the bottom.

As you can tell, I didn’t enjoy it at all.

Regardless, we decided on dessert and ordered Apfelkücherl with cinnamon and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. This of course forced us to pay before we ate anymore and then walk all the way back to the hotel in order to settle our stomach, even though we possessed a train group pass for the next few days.

The Nürnberger Bratwurst Glöckl am Dom in the evening

3.9 Stars ?

21 April, 201923 August, 2020

Munich – Lollo Rosso Bar

The subject restaurant is an inconspicuous hole in the wall that one would never think noted for its food. But it is worth every star it has on google and trip-advisor.

The quaint and cozy atmosphere inside is by no means palatial, it is made even smaller looking by all the woodwork. The confused decorum adds to this feeling, perhaps the owner’s attempt to appeal to the cafe, beer hall (evident by the pull down screen and beamer) and restaurant crowds.

However, for simple fare with an authentic chef’s twist it is difficult to beat!

The wurst platter with sauerkraut and potato salad was just what a sausage lover would be looking for in a satisfying dinner. The Leberkäse, a regional speciality, turned out to be a bit less exciting and compared more to a meatloaf made out of hotdogs. Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained.

My preferred route to a diabetic coma – Apfelstrüdel

The Apfelstrüdel was of course a triumph and paired with a Macallans, I enjoyed every mouthful.

4.5 stars ?

Erick and Patti at Lollo Rosso – photo taken with my old selfie-stick arm

15 April, 201923 August, 2020

Germany – Frankfurt and the Oberschweinstiege

The passed few weeks have been a whirlwind of activity finding an apartment in Turin and moving in. There were not only the customary contractual things to take care of, but also cleaning and furnishing the place to our liking. Luckily, we found something that mostly fit our desires while still being in the central part of town (Via Giovanni Giolitti.) However, it took several trips to IKEA and other sojourns to bring it to a point where we could move out of our AirBnB.

Just this past Friday, fairly exhausted, the three of us, Patti, Tristan and I left Turin for Frankfurt, Germany, after finally getting the apartment halfway straightened out and liveable (there will be another blog entry on that later once we have it completed.) The trip from Turin to Milan was more or less uneventful, although happily very fast and on time, thank you FrecciaRossa!

20190415_090040 — Leaving the Swiss Alps behind as we enter Thun

As we have in the past, we decided on taking the train from Milan to Frankfurt instead of flying. A seven hour journey between the two points (perhaps two hours more than flying), but relaxing in first class with its beverage service and other amenities, made the trip all that more enjoyable. Riding through the Italian and Swiss Alps, especially after the recent heavy snows, also made it a memorable site-seeing trip.

20190412_140824 — Train platform at Thun

Though of no particular importance as an attraction, the platform sign for Thun is shown above.

My fascination with this train stop has more to do with the John Le Carre’s 1982 BBC series “Smiley’s People“, than with any real, first hand experience of the place. In the movie, a soviet diplomat assumes another identity while in Thun, to remove money from a bank account setup by his Soviet operatives. Since I had never heard of the place, I became curious about its location and then subsequently surprised when one day a train that I was taking actually passed it! I guess it demonstrates just how small the world really is in a way.

Oberschweinstiege Restaurant and Blockhutte

After spending a relaxing weekend with our daughter Ericka, we decided to visit one of the restaurants that we enjoyed immensely on our last visit. After having snow flurries that morning, and a very intolerable forty something degrees that evening for North Carolinians, we took the regional train from Offenbach am Main to Frankfurt Süd, and subsequently Strassenbahn 18 to the park. Unbeknownst to us, Strassenbahn 18 dropped us some 2 km distant from our objective, which forced us to walk for an additional twenty minutes through the park.

20190414_185944 — Trails in the Naturpark in Frankfurt am Main Süd

The Oberschweinstiege, nestled in the naturpark in Frankfurt am Main Süd, sports a long tradition of local cuisine. It is also repleat with local history and traditional, which anyone can find and read with a proper internet search.

20190414_194825 — Tristan and Patti’s **Rumpsteak vom Argentinischen Rind** with vegatables and grilled potatoes

As can been seen by the photograph above the rump roast was thick, juicy and tender. Complimented with a Pauliner Hefe or local wine, an enjoyable meal anywhere.

20190414_194843 — Oberschweinstiege-Pfanne

I, on the other hand, decided to go with the establishment’s main dish. A hot frying pan of rendered pig with spaetzle!

Lastly, Ericka had the grandmother’s roast beef roladen with red cabbage and spaetzle.

Of course, no meal is complete without dessert. But this of course was nothing special since each went to their own comfort food. I chose the apple strudel, Ericka chose creme brulee and the others chose ice cream. All in all, a great evening of eating, compounded by our success getting on Strassenbahn 17, the correct train, which picked us up, but a few hundred meters from the restaurant’s door, instead of a mile away..!