There are a few places in Prague that still have the medieval charm. One is a museum, the other is a restaurant. But if one is paying attention as they walk around, they will find little medieval curiosities hidden away. It only requires a bit of exploring to find them.
The Old Town Square
The most remarkable thing about the Old Town Square is its small size. It is surprising that such are large medieval city would have such a small square.
Prague – Old Town Square – Jan Hus climbing monument
It does however have several remarkable points of interest and beautiful building contained or encircling it.
Prague – Old Town Square – The West House – House of the Minute
Prague – Old Town Square – Tyn Church
Prague – Old Town Square – Church
Prague – Old Town Square
Prague – Old Town Square – Painted Building
Prague – Old Town Square – West House
The Astronomy Clock
One of the main attractions in Prague is the Astronomical Clock. Aside from its obvious technical fascinations and color, it of course does not move a lot. That does not prevent many from craning their necks staring at it for more than an hour, hoping in vain for the clock to do something. However, the clock being based on a twenty-four hour daytime standard does move, but ever so slowly.
Prague – Old Town Square – Astronomical Clock Tower
Prague – Old Town Square – Astronomical Clock Tower
The Speculum Alchemiae
This museum offers guided tours through a historical alchemist’s shop, containing all of the accoutrements of the trade.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Tickets For Two
There are flasks, alembics, beakers and glass containers of all shapes and sizes littered throughout the shop.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Outside
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Flasks
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Alembics and other Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Store Front
The tour begins the shop and quickly advances through a door and small hallway to the alchemist’s study.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Hallway Pictures
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Hallway Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study with door closed
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Desk
After a twenty minute talk on the herbs and other potions of the alchemist’s trade, as well as a short discussion on books, the tour commenced through a secret opening in the bookcase.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
A creepy spiral staircase takes you downstairs into a dungeon like area full of workshops, each for a specific purpose.
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Restaurants
If it was not mentioned before it will be now. If you are interested in any particular restaurants for dinner, make sure you book reservations beforehand. Most of the good ones book up quickly, some times days in advance, so make the call or send the request as soon as possible to get your table.
There are many fine restaurants in Prague and from what I can tell, they have all earned their stars. However, that’s not to say you will go hungry, if you do not make the proper arrangements. There are still numerous restaurants around of all types that might have an empty table, you just may have to do some walking.
There are also street food options, for both lunch and dinner. So, if you are not particular about sitting down, you can consider them as a viable option. As a last resort there are always fast food corporate options, but again, go local if at all possible and enjoy the native cuisine.
Prague – Holiday Market – Rotisserie Pork
The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
The first impression from outside is the establishment looks a bit odd, with a figure of a man outstretched from the basement. Once our interests were peaked, we had to investigate further and finally made reservations for the following day when the remainder of our party could join.
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
I have never been in a more dark or gloomy restaurant as this one, lending it a bit of medieval charm. Lit, more or less, only by candle light, it’s no wonder humanity made it out of the Dark Ages.
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Inside
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Inside
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Menu
Participants should be aware, certain meals do not come with utensils and all of the beers come with a customary bang on the table. Some have been known to break their glasses, which is strangely allowed. The meals are, shall we say, good but very basic – they won’t be earning any Michelin Stars for their cuisine.
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Lentil Soup
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Roasted Chicken
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Baked Fish
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Gulash and Dumplings
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Gabi and Ericka
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Patti and Erick
Alforno Focacceria
Also known in Czech as Petrské náměstí, is situated on Petrská, just behind our hotel. We picked another Italian restaurant since they are pretty wide spread throughout the city and the actual Czech cuisine is a bit limited.
Our first few days in Prague introduced us to another city of towers, of which eight have some import. It is also a city severed by a river, the river Vltava, which flows into the river Elbe. This river is also a hub of tourism, having several river boat companies plying its waters.
Prague – Panorama of the city
Prague – Some Of The Sights
One can say that Prague is a very easy city to walk. It is well marked and there are plenty of street signs to indicate along the way where the most important landmarks are to see.
Prague – Municipal House
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets
Prague – Old Town Square
Prague – Old Town Square – Jan Hus climbing monument
Prague – Old Town Square – Church
Prague – Old Town Square – West House
Prague – Old Town Bridge Tower – Monument
Of course, just ambling your way down the city streets works too, which in most cases will lead to some kind of a surprise when you round a corner. Here is a short slide show as we did one of our unguided walks.
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The Klementinum
Of some interest is the Klementinum, an old medieval Dominican Monastery that was later converted into a Jesuit college.
Prague – The Klementinum
It was here, sometime in 1775, that a Jesuit scholar started recording the first set of unbroken climate measurements in eastern Europe. It also houses an impressive Baroque libraries in the world.
Prague – The Klementinum
Prague – The Klementinum – Courtyard
Prague – The Klementinum
Prague – The Klementinum – Art
The Towers
There are essentially eight towers of import within the city. They include:
The Old Town Bridge Tower
The Lesser Town Bridge Towers
The Old Town Hall Tower
Mirror Maze
Powder Gate Tower
Petrin Lookout Tower
Saint Nicholas Bell Tower
The New Mill Water Tower
The above are all marked on the city map that can be obtained from the city’s InfoPoint center. There are also numerous other lesser towers that can be found when roaming the city, some of which like the above can be ascended.
The Old Town Bridge Tower
From the Old Town in the direction of George’s Bridge one will next come upon the Old Town Bridge Tower. It was completed some time after 1385 and before then end of that century. It has seen a lot of history pass through its portal, wars and coronations alike.
Prague – Old Town Bridge Tower
The Lesser Town Bridge Towers
On the other end of George’s Bridge is the Lesser Town Bridge Towers. Each tower is unique, the one on the left, as viewed from the bridge, is in the Romanesque style and dates from the 12th century. The taller tower is Late Gothic and dates from 1464 and can be ascended.
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
The Mirror Maze
The Mirror Maze is not a tower, just a building that houses a fun-house for children and adults that contains mirrors. It is similar to mirror houses found at many state fairs in the United States.
Prague – The Mirror Maze
Powder Gate Tower
Prague – Powder Tower – Tickets For Two
Probably one of the first towers you will go see is the Powder Tower. You can purchase a ticket and view the city from this tower for a modest fee of about 3€.
The Powder Tower is so named since they used to store gun powder in it. It has also historically be the starting point of any coronation ceremonies held by the Bohemian Monarchs who entered the city, the ending point being the Prague Castle on the hill.
The building was first started in 1457 and finished some time later. It was not finished until the early seventeenth century. It stands at an impressive 195 feet, provided a excellent view of the surrounding city to anyone who ascends its claustrophobic spiral staircase.
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate
A slide show to show our ascent and the rest of Prague from the vantage point of the viewing deck at 44 meters.
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Petrin Lookout Tower
The lookout tower is on top of Petrin Hill and can be found either by walking up the park paths and stairs, there are multiple ways of reaching it; or by using the Ujezd to Petrin funicular. Though we did not ascend the tower, a pretty fantastic view can be enjoyed by doing so.
Prague – Petrin Lookout Tower
Saint Nicholas Town Bell Tower
Almost a pyramidal tower in look, the tower of Saint Nicholas can be found close to the Prague Castle and is part of Saint Nicholas’ church.
Prague – Saint Nicholas’s Town Bell Tower
The New Mill Water Tower
A six minute walk from our hotel and close to the Stefanik Bridge is the New Mill Water Tower. The tower was built in 1658 to supply water from the Vltava River to the lower portion of Prague.
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower
Saint Peter’s Bell Tower
This is a lesser tower not actually listed in the sightseer’s guides. However, due to its proximity to the hotel, it was easy enough to visit and take a few photographs.
Prague – Saint Peter’s Bell Tower
Prague – Saint Peter’s Bell Tower – Back
Henry’s Tower
Another lesser tower not on Prague’s official sightseeing list, but on some map, is Henry’s Tower. This tower is pretty close to the main train station in Prague and the Jindřišská tram stop, that is often jammed with trams waiting to go down the street of the same name.
Prague – Henry’s Tower
Art Deco Imperial Hotel
The Art Deco Imperial Hotel is a fine hotel situated just outside the old town, which is a mere ten minute walk away. The rooms are spacious, definitely big enough to relax in and the bathrooms, at least in the room that we were given, are all marble with all of the contemporary conveniences.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco
It is also very nice that the Imperial Café is part of the hotel, making breakfast a very simple and convenient affair.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Bronze
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Entrance to Imperial Café
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Stairs
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Elevators
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Stairs
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Hall
Restaurants
Of course, it is a bad habit, but I normally only comment on restaurants or cafés that can be recommended. Since Prague is such a tourist destination, one has to be careful choosing a restaurant here, not all of them serve a quality product. In that event, always go natural, preferring a salad over a different product like sausage, etc. In most cases you will not go wrong.
Imperial Café
On our first night in Prague we ate at the Imperial Café, which is part of the Art Deco Imperial hotel. This café is known for its amazing and beautiful tiled walls and ceilings.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Imperial Café
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Patti at the Imperial Café
A highly rated café which has obviously earned its stars. It also comes with baggage or purse stools, so that bags, pocketbooks and other paraphernalia you are carrying, doesn’t have to touch the floor.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Bag Stool provided at the Imperial Café
The service and food were excellent, so we had to try it out. We were not disappointed.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Onion Soup
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Beef Wellington
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Patti’s Chicken Breast with Ratatouille and Whipped Potatoes
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Strawberries with Vanilla Ice Cream and Whipped Cream
La Bottega Linka
A one minute walk from the Art Deco Imperial Hotel is the Italian Restaurant La Bottega Linka. The restaurant offers a combination of Italian, Czech and cosmopolitan dishes, as demanded most likely by tourist. However, the food and service are more than satisfactory, though the prices do suffer a bit from tourism area up charge, but still modest.
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Main Counter
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Ribeye with Potatoes
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Erick and Patti
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Gabi and Ericka
In Vienna, as with many older cities in Europe, there are interesting things to see not only above ground, but below as well. Today was a rainy day and we had to deal with as best we could, that could have meant museums, but everyone else had that idea. In attempt to continue to avoid crowded place, whenever possible, we decided on the offbeat.
Vienna – Vermählungsbrunnen
Schweizertor – The Swiss Gate
The swiss gate is the oldest gate or door and part of the Hofburg, dating back to the 1300s. It is part of the original square castle that included four turrets on each corner. It’s not much to see, but is a remarkable color red.
Vienna – Schweizertur – Swiss Gate
Die Ankeruhr
The Anker Clock is located on Hoher Markt, next to the Judengasse.
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr – Legend
It chimes and performs a small show every noon time, otherwise all you will witness is an hourly chime, as follows.
Kapuzinergruft – Kaisergruft – Habsburg Tomb
If you are at all interested in the Habsburgs, and perhaps where they might be buried, look no further than the Kapuzinergruft. Also called the Kaisergruft or Habsburg Tomb, it is located on Neuer Markt and next to the Kapuziner Kloster.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Kaiser Gruft or Crypt – Tickets For Two
The gruft contains many of the families of the Habsburgs and Habsburg-Lothringen and includes a genealogy of the members who rest in this place. Some of the coffins also have amazing details, most of which have to do with wars[1]I sometime wonder when we are going to get over or need for that exercise in futility.
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Restaurants
Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Lounge
If you stay at the Grand Hotel Wien, you should look into any combination package that offers breakfast. Unless you are an extremely light eater in the morning, you will not do much better outside. They have a hot and cold menu (buffet), and the portion size is well managed, so you won’t have to worry about walking around with a lot of extra weight.
Vienna – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast
Café Central
One of the oldest cafes in Vienna, the Café Central is located in the old Palais Ferstel building on the corner of Herren- and Strauchgasse. Famous personages like Freud and Trotsky have visited this establishment, though today the conversations today, one could say, are less political or analytical.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Building and entrance
We made reservations for lunch and commend anyone do that same. The line waiting to get in can be long and when it rains out, as it did today, you do not want to find yourself getting wet before sitting down after a twenty or so minute wait.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Show case at entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Looking toward entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Patti enjoying lunch
Vienna – Cafe Central – Main Room
The food is good and traditional. I can commend a good red wine from Burgenland called Blaufränkish, which is served by the glass for around 5.50€. It is an excellent accompaniment for Wüstchens and Gulash soup. It is very busy, so service can be intermittent at times, so be patient.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Würstchen platter and Maygar Gulash
Vienna – Cafe Central – Apfelstrüdel – a local and personal favorite
Anyone visiting Vienna has to have museums on the top of their list of things-to-do. This city is home to many extraordinary examples of very good museums, some even housed in former palaces. The Albertina is just such an example and a must see when visiting Vienna, their collection of fine art is, shall we say, first rate.
Vienna – The Natural History Museum – Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
Some Museums of Vienna
In fact, there are so many museums in Vienna, it is perhaps difficult to list them all. Below are a few that we visited and thoroughly enjoyed, along with a few photographs, just to remember the important works of art that are there.
The Hofburg
A complex of museums and a library, which we found out only allows users who are doing research or have special permission. Though we did not see any museums here, it does include a World Museum and a Papyrus Museum.
Vienna – The Hofburg Gate
Vienna – The Hofburg – 1821 built in memory of the Battle of Leipzig
Vienna – The Hofburg
Vienna – The Hofburg
Vienna – The Hofburg – Prince Eugene Statue
Vienna – The Hofburg – Erzherzog Karl – Equestrian Statue
Maria-Theresien-Platz
Sitting across from one another, on the Maria-Theresien Platz, are the Art History and Natural History museums. This impressive public square was built with the public in mind, where they could come and enjoy the museums and stroll the grounds afterwards. The square is joined on the one end by the Museumquartier and on the other by the Burgring (Ringstraße), across which lies the Hofburg.
Vienna – The Natural History Museum
Vienna – The Art History Museum
Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Tickets for Two
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Main Stairway – Works by Klimt and others
Across the Burgring from the Hofburg is the Art History Museum of Vienna, or the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien. It houses unique art pieces collected by the Habsburgs during their reign.
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ceiling
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Jewelry Collection
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – A Griffin
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Roman and Greek bronzes and vases
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Bust
The Albertina
Formerly a palace, the Albertina was rebuilt after the Second World War and refurbished at the turn of the millennium. It contains collections of works by Monet, Picasso, Dürer and Da Vinci to name a few, my favorites are the works by Klee and Chagall. Here is a slideshow of some of those works.
Batliner Collection
A famous collection of paintings featuring Monet and Picasso, the Batliner Collection was endowed to the Albertina by Herbert Batliner’s estate. It contains many important collections by modernist artists, including Chagall, Ernst and Klee. Here is a slideshow of what this collection has to offer.
The building also has a collection of state rooms that were used by the archdukes and archduchesses of the Habsburgs. It consists of about twenty rooms of varying styles and designs.
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Restaurants
La Scala Trattoria
Yes we know, Italian food in Austria? Yes and yes! It is amazing how many Italian restaurants and trattoria there are here, including chains like Vapiano’s, if you need a quick bite for lunch.
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
This was a great pick for lunch, the hosts are very attentive and the food is speedily and well prepared. Though I would say that cuisine that is offered has an almost Rome feel to it, either due to the owners origin or as a response to tourist’s expectations. All in all, you couldn’t any better in Vienna than selecting this place to eat Italian food.
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala – Spaghetti al Pomodoro e Basilico
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala – Spaghette Aglio Olio
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer
This is an old Viennese restaurant, formerly owned by Sacher[1]The same person one who made the Sacher Torte famous, which was named after the exploits of a chimney sweep who had a torrid love affair with a young woman baker who used to work in the building. After some time of coming out each morning covered in baking flour the locals would jokingly call the place of the White Chimney Sweep.
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
The food is traditional for this area and very well prepared, the pea soup was marvelous. The Wiener Schnitzel was above average with the breading being very tasty, crusty and separated from the veal, making for a delicious entree. As such, expect to pay above average prices.
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer – Pea Soup
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer – Wiener Schnitzel
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
Be aware, though we were seated immediately at fifteen after six in the evening, management of getting a table appeared a bit capricious to us. They seem to turn some parties away while accepting others of the same size without reservations. My wife and I were puzzled, so reservations are easy enough to make and probably a good idea.
Our flight from Milan to Vienna was rather quick and thankfully uneventful. Though I will admit, if Vienna was within a six (6) hour train ride, I would still rather take a train.
Austria – Flight from Milan – Mountain Snows
Austria – Flight from Milan – Vienna from the air
Additionally, I would say, Austrian Airlines would not be my favorite airline to take. It is better than Spirit and RyanAir, but worse than Delta and other larger carriers. It’s meant to be cheap and it feels it. We only took it out of convenience.
Grand Hotel Wien
When choosing a hotel we were looking for something with Wiener charm and found it the Grand Hotel. The rooms are grand, comfortable and the hotel staff and service are great.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien
The outside is rather unassuming, but the inside and its rooms have that old age charm. It contains a cafe and three restaurants and will meet most peoples needs for their short stay in this very cosmopolitan city.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Foyer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Hall
A Quick Look At Vienna
Our first day or so was spent getting a quick look at the city. Our first impressions are it is a rather clean city for its size, but not as clean as Ljubljana, Slovenian. It has an extensive and very useful commuter infrastructure, including rail, tram, cycling and pedestrian ways all clearly marked and very easy to use. The WienMobile mobile application is also very useful and easy to set up.
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Restaurants
Wiener Küche
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche
A small Viennese restaurant on Bräunerstraße, Wiener Küche serves traditional Austrian and Wiener cuisine. Needing our first sample of local food, we stopped here for our early afternoon meal. We both chose the Beef Gulash with Parsley Potatoes.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche – Patti freezing
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche – Beef Gulash with Parsley Potatoes and Merlot
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Erick at the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Some 33km from Aosta, or about one hour by bus, is the small ski hamlet of Courmayeur and the starting point of our day journey to Pont Helbronner (Helbronner Point) and Monte Bianco, or Mont Blanc.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Tickets For Two
Courmayeur
A quaint little ski hamlet that offers a traditional Italian, Swiss and French Alpine feel. The town is built to withstand the snows that most likely visit this region every winter season. Luckily, we visited when the weather was a bit more mild and pleasant.
Courmayeur – The Town’s Climbing Society
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Town Main Street
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – Diorama of an old structure in town
Courmayeur – The Mountains and Moghu Pines
Courmayeur – The Mountains and Moghu Pines
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – The Mountains
Courmayeur – A Town in the High Alps
Courmayeur – A Sundial in Town
Courmayeur – The Town and Mountains
Or primary reason for being here was taking the Skyway Monte Bianco and visiting the mountain across from Mont Blanc, in order to get some good photographs of it and the valley of glaciers that it creates.
Helbronner and Mont Blanc
Once you board the cable car you ascend rapidly to the intermediate stop of where the Saussurea Alpine Botanical Gardens are, where you can stretch you legs and your soul.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Cable Car Entrance
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Cable Car Entrance
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mountain Face of Aiguilles Marbrées
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mountain Face of Aiguilles Marbrées
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – The Aosta Valley Floor
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Cloud Shrowded Mont Blanc
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – The Way Down – Aosta Valley
There are many things you can do here besides enjoy the cafe or bar. There are hiking trails all over the mountain, and within a few minutes you can be totally alone, hiking a few minutes up any of the trails. If not to discover, perchance to enjoy a different view of the mountain side, which in these parts, is steep enough to tax anyone’s endurance.
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Pont Helbronner
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont and Glacier du Géant
A singular place to visit to enjoy the almost lunar landscape of this Alpine geography. Aside from occasional dyspepsia and dizziness that this altitude might cause, the visitor is welcomed to an almost surreal landscape once exiting the cable car and ascending the stairs to the observation deck.
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Legend
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Glacier du Géant and Dente del Gigante
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – Patti and view of Mont Blanc in clouds and Mont Maudit
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont Blanc in Clouds and
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Mont and Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Dente del Gigante
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Glacier du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – First View du Géant
Courmayeur – The Skyway Monte Bianco – View From Cable Car – Second Cable Car at Saussurea Alpine Botanical Garden
Restaurants
Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria
A normal pizzeria and brasserie by any Italian standards, as a stop for lunch it fit the bill nicely. We enjoyed a quick lunch of pasta, salad, water, wine and coffee with very pleasant service as an added bonus. There is nothing to complain about here, the staff is well versed in taking orders and serving food quite promptly.
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria – Erick’s Tagliatelle in Ragu and Insalate Mista
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria –
Courmayeur – Brasserie la Padella Pizzeria – Patti’s Tagliatelle with Porchini mushrooms
Located about two hours north of Turin by train and down a very large valley, is the small city of Aosta (pronounced: Ahh’osta). It is a cute little city of about thirty-five thousands inhabitants and a former ancient Roman military outpost.
Aosta – From Gargantua
We had planned a short trip for Aosta some time ago, hoping to go there during the hot summer month of July, but we were busy. So, we adjusted our plans to September and glad we did. The valley can be as hot as the Po Valley in summer and can also have wild swings in weather. So, along with the fact that we had additional plans for Mont Blanc, we prepared both ways, and perhaps in the end packed a bit too heavily.
The Valley
It is located in the Aosta Valley of the same name and is the capital of one of the autonomous regions in Italy. It can be found at the confluence of the rivers Dora Baltea, which starts at the foot of Mont Blanc, and the Buthier, which starts at the foot of the Grandes Murailles glacier and the Valpelline valley.
Aosta – Looking Southeast from Omama hotel
Aosta – Looking South and Mount Garin
Aosta – The Buthier river
Aosta – The Buthier river
The City
The city is an ancient Roman enclave and military output, that was supported by the Roman Empire and an important Roman presences in the first century, guarding the northern pass from barbarians. Augustus Caesar is displayed throughout the city in many bronzes and other forms of statue.
Aosta – Tickets For Two – Archeological Sites Aosta
If you are going to do any meaningful investigation of this city, you must enjoy its many archeological sites. In order to do so, a visit to the information center is needed, its by the Praetorian Gate (or triple bridge), and for a modest 8€/person, you can purchase tickets to all of the important venues in town.
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Roman Arch Of Augustus
The enormous Arch of Augustus was built in 25 BCE to commemorate Augustus Caesar’s victory over the Salassis.
Aosta – Roman Gate of Augustus Ceasar
Aosta – Roman Gate of Augustus Ceasar
Located by the Pietra di Aosta bridge, which goes over the Buthier river, it is a large arch that contains a cross inside.
The Roman Theater
Another important site is the Roman Theater. Apparently in the early 1900s there were several structures built against the entrance, using it as one wall in their buildings. When the government decided that it was an important archeological site, these buildings were raised to prepare the site for excavations.
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The Roman Wall and Towers
The city is encircled by a Roman Wall and several towers, four of which mark each corner of the rectangle that is made by the walls.
Aosta – Bell Tower and front of the Church of Sant Orso
Romanesque Cloister of Sant-Orso
A fine example of Romanesque art and cloister architecture the Cloister of Saint Orso.
Aosta – Arches and Columns inside of the Cloister of Sant Orso
Almost every column lining the portico inside the cloister has a unique sculpted capital, depicting strange images of times forgotten. Some of the columns have multiple pillars abutting their capitals, making them even stranger and perhaps more difficult to understand by researchers.
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Paleo-Christian Church Of Sant Lorenzo
Of special interest is the small, paleo-christian Church of Saint Lorenzo. An archeological site in its own right, the old church has actually been excavate underneath the existing church of the same name, Church of Sant Lorenzo.
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
Aosta – The Paleo-Christian Church of Sant Lorenzo
The Cryptoportico
No one actually knows what the Cryptoportico was used for, it is only known that it was a large rectangular structure with a corresponding lighted basement. It has been conjectured that the layout hints at its use as a marketplace and the cellar as a storage place for grain and other commodities. Unfortunately the slide show provided in the cellar is provided only in Italian, but that appears to only have explained the archeological details of the excavation and not necessarily its intended use.
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Restaurants
Caffe Nazionale
Its claim to fame ostensibly is that it’s the oldest cafe in Aosta. Aside from its coffee being overpriced, its outside seating suffering from the hot sun (no umbrellas) and it only having one staff member taking orders, its coffee and brioche are good. However, when I can purchase two Capucinos and two Brioches of the same or better quality right next to my hotel at half the price, it is definitely not worth it! However, if you want a seat in the Piazza Emile Chanoux to eat breakfast, then it is perhaps one of your only options.
Aosta – Caffe Nazionale – Piazza Emile Chanoux
Ristorante Aldente
A very good restaurant, offering both inside and outside seating, is Aldente.
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente
They have a full wine list, with a concentration on local and regional wines, so a great place to try something new. The menu has all the local favorites, consisting of a blend of Italian and French cuisines. A great place to eat for a special evening, or just to relax and enjoy great food.
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente – Fumin Wine – Valle D’Aosta
Aosta – Ristorante Aldente – Braised Veal with Vegetables
House O Break
A fantastic place for lunch or dinner. We ate here twice, since they have a varied menu with many local specialties at very good prices.
Aosta – Break O House – Front
Aosta – Break O House – Spaghetti e Vongole
Aosta – Break O House – Crepe with Fontina Cheese and Béchamel
PubBurger
Nothing special, but dying for something different we went to a burger chain here called PubBurger. The burgers are actually pretty good, but the buns are a bit hard, unlike the ones in the States. The quantity of French Fries too was a bit on the small side, considering it is a burger place, but I didn’t complain because the size of the burger was HUGE!
Across from the Isola di San Giulio sits the town of Orta di San Giulio on a promontory jutting out into the lake towards it. It is mostly known for the hill above it, or Sacro Monte, which contains the World UNESCO site of Sacro Monte di Orta.
Omegna – Navigazione Lago d’Orta Servizio Pubblico di Linea – Photograph from afar
Last Treats Of Our Time On Lake Orta
We actually took the public ferry twice[1]It is actually called the Servizio di trasporto pubblico locale or Servizio Traghetti Orta to Orta San Giulio, in order to more fully explore what this little town had to offer. While there, we visited the Sacro Monte, the main street of town and many of the shops that are open along the way. After our short stay it was time to head back and enjoy what was left of Omegna before returning to Turin.
Orta San Giulio
A typical lake town on Lake Orta is San Giulio. As expected, most activity and the main square, is down by the water and along the shore of the lake. There are many cafes, bars and restaurants in Piazza Mario Motta, as well as some others sprinkled along the main street and in some alleys.
Orta San Giulio – Piazza Mario Motta
The main street, which changes its name almost every block, contains all of the shops in town. Here one can find anything from leather goods – made in Italy, to Piedmont agricultural goods and other local products.
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Sacro Monte
There are two ways to walk the hill to Sacro Monte, one can either take a left or a right at the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption on via Caire Albertoletti.
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti – Toward Sacro Monte
Orta San Giulio – Via Caire Albertoletti to Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – The Town from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Overview from Via Palma
Orta San Giulio – Isola di San Giulio from Via Palma
Most people will take the right, it is much shorter and direct, but as we found out, may not be offered on some phone maps[2]I swiftly submitted an update on the missing road, as soon as I was able. If one takes the left, you will circumnavigate the hill and eventually bring you back around to where you can enter the Sacro Monte from the back parking lot entrance, about a 15-20 minute walk. Of course there is nothing wrong with this, it is just different and longer, but will get you to the same place.
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Back Entrance Signs
Sacro Monte – Interlinking Paths to each Chapel
The Sacro Monte has numerous chapels which one can visit, each having its own purpose, according to Catholic religious sources. Of the twenty or so chapels and churches that comprise the site, we visited about a handful.
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The Rest of Omegna
Our last couple of days in the town of Omegna were spent mostly relaxing. It rained one day, which really curtailed anything we could do, especially with respect to any hiking we had had in mind. However, we were able to venture out in the evening, after the rain had passed and enjoyed the evening mountain air.
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As an afterthought we would have to say we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here; but must also honestly say, it’s not for everyone. Omegna is really laid back and probably accounts for the wild swings we saw in the number of tourists we saw day to day. The weekends are definitely busier, and all of the Italian holidays, so plan your trip accordingly. There is also a definite lack in the assortment of restaurants and we found it difficult to chose, after having been here for a week. It is also a haven for backpackers, so if you find them annoying, you might want to head elsewhere since they are pretty much everywhere enjoying the fine hiking that is available in the area.
Restaurants
Rosticceria Ruyi
The Chinese restaurant, Rosticceria Ruyi on via Giuseppe Mazzini, essentially saved us from culinary hell. After a week of Caprese, Pizza and Pasta, a well cook meal of rice and vegetables was sorely needed and this restaurant has the food at excellent prices (e.g. a dish of Cantonese Rice – 3€). However, be aware at the time of this writing, they open at 18:00 for take-away but were not serving sit down inside the restaurant until 20:15, or 8:15PM in the evening. So plan accordingly!
Hidden quietly in the north of Italy is the small lake of Orta and the lazy town of Omegna. After two trains and a bus ride, we finally arrived at our new short trip destination. We checked into our three star hotel, the Croce Bianci, perhaps the best centrally located one in the town.
Orta Lake – Panorama from Omegna Shoreline
Because of its small size and lack of glamour, Lake Orta is often overlooked by most overseas travelers, who are more interested in the high impact tourist destinations to check off their bucket lists. It is visited mostly by Italians from Milan, some of whom own weekend homes here, the French, Germans and the occasional Brit. Since there is really not much to see and do on this side of the lake, a short slideshow is perhaps more in order.
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We made plans to visit Omegna just to relax and actually do nothing more than just check the lake out. This is definitely a good place to accomplish nothing. However, there are plenty of activities available, from camping, boating, cycling, swimming, hiking and the odd trek to a neighboring town, if one is so inclined. The area is definitely family friendly, even the town has a large and very well equipped playground for them.
The remainder of our trip will visit other parts of the lake and be continued in another entry, so stay tuned. Ciao for now…
Restaurants
Salera 16
A more hip and trendy place is the Salera 16, which caters to the younger crowd with burgers, fries and other handheld items. A good place to stop for something quick.
Omegna – Estiva: Fruit Salad with Prosciutto, Mozarella and Pesto – Salera 16
Omegna – Caesar Salad with Chicken and shaved Parmesan – Salera 16
Al Centrale Bistrot
This little bistrot has excellent food at great prices, though the menu is limited and changes daily. If you are not fussy and adaptable you definitely find a tasty treat here. Their wines by the glass are very good.
Omegna – Pasta Bolognese and Insalata Mista – Al Centrale Bistrot
Omegna – Ravioli with Pesto – Al Centrale Bistrot
Ristorante Il Cavalieri
The first restaurant we visited when we arrived, it offers traditional Italian fare and pizza. It behaves more like a trattoria and gets a lot of local traffic. So an excellent place for reasonably priced authentic Italian food. I found the Vino Sfuso, or bulk house wine, a bit of a disappointment, but it is still drinkable and reasonably priced.
Omegna – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Ravioli and side salad – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Chicken Cutlet Milano Style with Fries – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Omegna – Tartufo – Il Cavalieri Pizzeria
Ristorante Punti D’Vista
A ten minute walk along the Lungolago Gramsci of Omegna on the west bank will bring you to this hotel and restaurant. Set slightly uphill from the road it has a commanding view of the lake and plenty of outside seating. Reservations are recommended though, as the patio seating fills up quite fast.
Omegna – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Rigatoni with olive oil, tomatoes and fried vegetables – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Omegna – Cheese Cake with currants, Coffee and Sambuca – Ristorante Punti Di Vista
Somewhere in the northeast of Italy, north and east of even Venice, is the small city of Udine. The largest city before you enter Slovenia to the east and Austria to the north. From here you can see the Austrian and Julian Alps.
Udine – Alps panorama
From Ljubljana we took an Austrian train to Villach and then over to Udine. Along the way were able to enjoy sights of the Julian Alps out our window and just relax.
Probably one of the most underrated and unlikely places we have been this year is Udine. Unlikely, because it is usually not on anyone’s radar, though we met numerous French and German tourists enjoying it. Underrated, because we think it has some things to offer, that others might not find in the exact same way elsewhere.
Udine – The City
Udine – Near Porto Manin
The people in Udine are very urbane and really enjoy tourist in their small city. They make an extra effort to speak and understand English, where you may not find such proclivities in other Italian cities and towns.
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Udine Castle
Destroyed in the sixteenth century by a violent earthquake, the Udine Castle was rebuilt soon afterwards and stands today housing several museums. It actually sits atop an artificial hill, by all accounts ancient and predating Rome in nature, and is the highest and largest artificial hill in Europe.
Udine – Udine Castle
Udine – Udine Castle
The Civic Museum of the Risorgimento
This museum has artifacts from local historic events following the fall of Venice, up to the time of the mid 1800s. Including documents and written accounts of the annexation of Friuli to the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.
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The Archaeological Museum
This museum contains an impressive ancient coin collection and other artifacts from ancient and Roman times. Including amphorae, old oil lamps and other funerary objects. Though a small collection, it was rather interesting to learn where each was found locally and their relative histories.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Roman Stones
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Roman Artifacts
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Another Exhibit
Gallery of Ancient Art
A gallery of art comprising works of local artists from the fourteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Most of the work appear religious in nature. Some of those that caught my eye in particular are the following.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Painting – Giuseppe Garibaldi
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Bronze of Soldiers
Diorama of the Battle of Montebello
Complete with a map showing the order of battle, this diorama clicks all the right boxes for the model builder at heart.
Udine – Udine Castle Museum – Diorama – Order of the Battle of Montebello
The museum has an extraordinary diorama of the Battle of Montebello. For anyone that is or was a model builder, or a warfare historian, one can stand and just marvel at it for some time.
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Churches
There are several noteworthy churches in the area, though we were not actually able to visit all of them inside.
Chapel of Palazzo del Monte di Pietà
A chapel, which has beautiful frescoes and is now actually part of the bank Intesa Sanpaolo, is in the Palazzo del Monte di Pietà. Often walked right by tourists, if they are not paying attention, this chapel is a gem, see for yourself.
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Doorway
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Altar of the Pieta
Udine – Palazzo del Monte di Pieta – Ceiling
Church of Saint Maria di Castello
A church that is at the top of the hill and adjacent to the Castel is the Saint Maria di Castello. Complete with bell tower, a remarkable example
Udine – Church of Saint Maria
Cathedral Santa Maria Annuziata
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Annuziata is known for its octagonal bell tower. It can be seen from the castle hill, along with the church which is a major landmark in the city. Formerly consecrated as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore in 1335, it has three naves and chapels along the sides. Since it was not open at the time, we were only able to get some photographs of the outside.
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
Udine – Cathedral Santa Maria Annunziata
The Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo is also close by the front of the cathedral, so just wandering across the street from the front of the church should bring you there.
Udine – Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo
Udine – Corte di Palazzo Morpurgo
Hotels
We chose the Astoria Hotel Italia for its old world charm, eschewing some of the more contemporary offers that were available. When we travel, it’s one of those things that can set off one place from another.
The Astoria Hotel Italia
The hotel Astoria Italia has maintained itself as though it fits into the landscape. It sports new amenities, like contemporary and renovated bathrooms (a must), while keeping some of that old world charm. I disagree with putting contemporary style beds in such old rooms, which they clearly want to preserve, but I am probably in the minority (I rather prefer, if its old keep old, like it came out of the nineteenth century, then you get that step-back-in-time feel).
Udine – Astoria Hotel
In any case, our hotel was great and provided a very central place from which to explore the rest of the old city.
Udine – Astoria Hotel – Old Room Keys – The Old Fashioned Way
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Udine – Astoria Hotel Italia
Restaurants
The restaurants in Udine serve typical northern Italian fare, with some twists for Tyrolean and other close neighbors. It is a fairly cosmopolitan city and one can find Sushi and other worldly franchise food here, so selecting a place to eat should not be an issue.
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso
This restaurant was right around the corner from our hotel, in fact, it is actually adjacent to it (without us knowing). We walked around the corner anyways and entered it from the garden seating direction each time, even though there was a main entrance on the main street. The food is excellent, all with that home-cooked taste, and there’s pizza for those who are unsure what they want, everyone likes pizza!
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Front
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Spaghetti al Ragu
Ristorante Pizzeria Al Gelso – Caprese Salad
Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia
A lazy and very relaxing restaurant right next to the canal, a perfect place for lunch or dinner.
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Seating by the canal
We really enjoyed our lunch here, watching the darning-needles, or dragon-flies, flit back and forth over the stream. Although this restaurant becomes very busy for lunch, the service was especially good and punctual, so anyone having problems waiting (which is most common in Italy), it might be a place to visit. The food is very good, fresh and delicately spiced. We kept it simple, bean soup for a started, followed by salads, just to keep things a bit light.
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Bean Soup
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Patti
Udine – Osteria Alla Ghiacciaia – Erick
Trattoria Antica Maddalena
This trattoria has a bit of an upscale palette, with a menu and prices to match. As our last evening in Udine, we chose it for its high ratings and interesting looking menu. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photograph of the outside of the establishment, but have a few of the upstairs. You may want to book reservations if you want to sit outside, when we arrived the outside and downstairs seating were completely booked. So act early, if you want to enjoy this restaurant and its food with a street view!
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Inside
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Inside
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Spaghetti with Garlic Cream Sauce, Peppers and Shrimp Tartare
Udine – Trattoria Antica Maddalena – Cheese, Eggplant and Spices Ravioli with Insalata Mista
We leave Udine as the endpoint in our latest trip, which has taken us from one part of Italy – Trieste, through Slovenia and a little bit of Austria, back to Italy and underrated Udine. Though we both ate too much, we really enjoyed this trip and had several surprises along the way, which made it all that more memorable.
Udine – Main Train Station
So, if you are ever on a train traveling east from Milan, perhaps to Venice, Austria or Slovenia, you may want to stop at Udine to see what it has to offer. We stopped on our way back and were not disappointed, we think you wont be either. Happy travels!
