Korčula, Croatia – Island Escape

After Split, Croatia we had planned on taking a detour to one of the islands for a bit of an escape. We knew it was going to be crowded, since tourist season was upon us and we thought it would be great to also break up the distance between Split and Dubrovnik. Our choice was the town of Korčula, on the eponymous island in Croatia.

Korčula

Is a small medieval walled town that was protected from the outside by walls. It was, in fact, not until later in the nineteenth century that citizen were allowed to build outside the walls.

The Town from Galerija Maksimilijana Vanka Viewpoint – Korčula, Croatia

The main entrance to the town is the large main gate. Today it is left open, but before modern times it was closed at night. There is a street that encircles the entire town and is very nice for a slow walk, while you enjoy the scenery and hopefully the weather.

Main Entrance to Town – Korčula, Croatia

Small Canon used for defense – Main Entrance – Korčula, Croatia

The town is laid out in a herringbone or pinnate leaf pattern. This allows for better air circulation, while at the same time offering protection against the most violent of storms that come in from the sea.

Ancient Drapery Pedastels – Korčula, Croatia

An old bricked up entrance – Korčula, Croatia

Patti by alley filled with stairs – Korčula, Croatia

Croatian Flag and side alley – Korčula, Croatia

The name of the island and town is derived from an Illyrian-Greek word that means the rock passage. It has been inhabited for at least a few thousand years. The Greeks were frequent visitor in the 6th B.C.E., and perhaps arrived on the island even before that time. The original population were colonies of Illyrians, which have left their telltale marks throughout the island. From the early 3rd B.C.E. the Romans knew of the island and subdued it later for five hundred years. Some of the Latin that was taught in those days, still lingers in the speech of the town’s peoples.

GettingThere

To get there, take the ferry service that runs between Split and Dubrovnik. There are several lines, unfortunately our original booking through Kapetan Luka was cancelled due to equipment issues, so we had to rebook on TPLine. It was fully booked, but very comfortable. Get in line early, because seats usually go fast.

Leaving Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Our boat trip – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Another small town – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

A Word About Ferries

Just an opinion of course, but having been on both ferry lines, I would prefer the TPLine. On TPLine, your luggage is stowed indoors with you and not outside, as with Kapetan Luka line. The latter is fine otherwise, but in the event of bad weather, it appears your luggage would be soaked upon arrival to your destination. I also found their boats to have a bit more room to get around. I felt a bit cramped on the Luka line.

Departing Split – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Patti on board – Ferry Line – Korčula, Croatia

Our Hotel

The Aminess Liburna

A large modern hotel on the adjacent pennisula to the town. From here it was about a fifteen to twenty minute walk to inside the town walls. However, the hotel has all the amenities, including breakfast. They also have a pool and a small seaside area for swimming. The deluxe rooms are typical and met most of our requirements.

Our hotel across the inlet – Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia

Aminess Liburna Hotel – Korčula, Croatia

Path from our hotel to town – Korčula, Croatia

Marco Polo House

Ostensibly Marco Polo lived in the house for some time during his travels. Which travels, the museum does not elaborate on. They only conjecture that Marco was there, based on the family owning property and having other interests on the island.

Alley entrance – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Interior – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Weapons Display – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Battles – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

The Polos were based in Venice and the city and its residents had a strong influence on the island and the town.

Old Maps Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Maps of Europe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Marco Polo’s adventures and artifacts are explained and exhibited in some detail. Enough at least to enjoy the small museum that they have made in his honor.

Upsidedowm Map of Europe, Middle East, Part of Africa, Asia and India subcontinent – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Upper Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Upper Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Lower Left Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Lower Right Corner Details – Continents Map – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Map of Europe and Asia – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Book – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Museum learning aids – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Old Books he owned – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Map of Known World – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

His long twenty-seven years journey into Asia is the central theme. Some of the artifacts are copies or replicas, but the genuine one are very interesting.

Model of a 13th Century Axe – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Model of a 13th Century Sword – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Tapestry – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Indian Artifact – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Chinese Necklace and Copper Burner, an Indian Spice Container – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Of special interest were the model boat, a replica used in his travels, as well as assorted maps and other forms of reference used during the adventure.

Ship Model – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

One special artifact is that of the Tablet that Kubla Khan had given his company for safe travel. It essentially gave them Carte Blanche through the countryside. Anyone interfering with them, risked Khan and his army descending upon them.

Khan’s Golden Tablet – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

One of the last things to visit is the house tower, which commands a modest view of the surrounding area.

Entrance to Tower – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Tower Views – Marco Polo House – Korčula, Croatia

Churches and Cathedrals

There are a few churches in the town and one cathedral of importance. The people who live in the town are very religious and masses are well attended on the weekends, especially during holidays.

Front – Church of Saint Peter – Korčula, Croatia

Church of Saint Michael

Modest from the outside and equally so inside, this church is emblematic of its worshippers’ devotion to their faith. The church’s centerpiece is Christ on the Cross.

Interior – Church of Saint Michael – Korčula, Croatia

Saint Mark’s Cathedral

A remarkably simple example of a Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral on the small island, but no less important is Saint Mark’s. It is central to the town and is noteworthy. Visitors are required to wear respectful clothing, no shorts or inappropriate clothing is allowed, so dress accordingly.

Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Entrance Details – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Nave – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

The cathedral has some very interesting eavestroughs and other architectural tidbits that any visitor, with some time on their hands, may explore. The interior layout is typical, even though a bit simple.

Eavestroughs – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Attached to the left of the cathedral is a side chapel, which is a bit more elaborate than that of the cathedral itself.

Side Chapel – Saint Mark’s Cathedral – Korčula, Croatia

Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows

A small votive chapel directly after you enter the main gate and to the left. The Chapel of Our Lady of the Snows also commemorate Saint Bartholomew and the Battle of 1483. According to someone who transcribed the events of the battle between the Venetians and Genoese, Marco Polo was captured during the battle and later imprisoned.^[1]It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.

Restaurants

In some parts of Croatia, and especially Korčula, most of the restaurants go by Konoba. This is to denote thier Dalmation or Istrian heritage and may they take the form of cellar-like tavern or other small place that serves authentic local food. Most of them we found to be reasonably priced.

Konoba Riva

A new restaurant that open just before we arrived which offers a very delicious menu with food to match it. We ate here three times, twice for lunch and once for dinner and were never dissappointed. The food was never salty or overcooked and when it arrived, it was still hot! The service was also extremely attentive, no doubt trying to assert some sway over any reviews they would receive. It didn’t matter, it ended up as our go to place.

Minestrone Soup – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Mixed Salad with Grilled Chicken – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Pasta with Chicken – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Pannacotta with Apricot Jam – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Kruskovac Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Sijivovica Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Travarica Apéritif – Konoba Riva – Korčula, Croatia

Konoba Biankura

Konoba Biankura is located about three streets down in the old town on the right. It offers a wide variety of food, along with pasta and some meat dishes. The fish soup is amazing and can be commended highly.

Panncotta with honey – Konoba Biankura – Korčula, Croatia

Konoba Aterina

The Konoba Aterina is a restaurant in the old town. It offers a view somewhat of the sun setting and has covered terrace outside seating. The food is good, the majority of which is seafood, so a good place to scratch your fishy itch. We ordered the Sea Bass, traditionally cooked, and were not dissappointed.

Vegetable Soup – Konoba Aterina – Korčula, Croatia

Grilled Sea Bass and Vegetables – Konoba Aterina – Korčula, Croatia

References[+]

References
↑1	It is actually unclear if he was captured at this battle, or a previous minor engagement at Laiazzo.

24 March, 202629 March, 2026

Michelstadt, Germany – Odenwald Curiosity

On the border of Hesse and Bavaria, in the Odenwald, is the town of Michelstadt. It’s curious, because its name contains within it a word that most english speaking people would think it should be a city, when in fact, the germans use the denotation for both town and city. Technically, it is considered a Kleinstadt, or small city, or what we call a town and should carry the stadt on the end of its name.

Michelstadt

The town is one of the oldest within what is called the inner Odenwald. There has been some sort of settlement there ever since the eighth century. Like other small towns of this nature, its layout has a certain lazy circle about it, indicating it was protected by some kind of fortification or wall. Evidence of this can be found on Kellerbergstraße, where part of the wall remains, and Mauerstraße where it can be seen in its former glory.

Elephantenhaus – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany

Getting There

To get to Michelstadt you will take either the 45 or 47 from the north or the south. On the north of town is a very large parking area which we used, conveniently located close to the town’s center.

Zum Grüner Baum – Großer Gasse – Michelstadt, Germany

Oberer Pfarrgasse – Michelstadt, Germany

Town Hall

The Town Hall, or Rathaus, is one of the more prominent buildings in the town. It stands a bit off-center in the Marktplatz and has an old press, a scale and other items associated with the buildings history in the open area underneath it.

Altes Rathaus – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany

The Marktplatz contains a main foutain, which the town appears to decorate for holidays and other occasions.

Marktbrunnen – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany

Löwenhof – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany

Michelstadt Fortress

The Michelstadt Fortress, or Burg Michelstadt, is probably more of a stronghold than any castle or fortress. Though it sits on a high wall with a moat, it is not as impressive as other german castles or fortresses. Today it houses a mill museum, which unfortunately was not open at the time of our visit.

Old Wall – Kellerbergstraße – Michelstadt, Germany

Diebsturm

The Diebsturm, or Thieves’ Tower, is part of and sits next to Burg Michelstadt. The sump or cellar of the tower was used as a prison starting sometime in the early fourteenth century. Prisoners were lowered down on a rope into the cellar to wait our their term. It is one of the more prominent features of the town.

Ericka and Patti – Diebsturm – Marktplatz – Michelstadt, Germany

Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum

This museum preserves the jewish past of the town, neatly preserved in the former Synagoge Michelstadt that was destroyed during the prelude to the second world war.

Here one can get a sense of the small jewish population that used to inhabit the town, which also has numerous Stolpersteine^[1]these are small brass memorials laid in the ground for jews and people who were killed, deported or driven to suizide commemorating the people of the town that lost their lives. They can be found throughout Germany and parts of Europe.

The museum also backs up to the old town wall and has a nice little park, where one can quietly sit and enjoy the weather.

Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Alter Stadtmauer – Michelstadt, Germany

Dr. I. E. Lichtigfeld Museum – Park – Michelstadt, Germany

Restaurants

Due to its size, there is not much to choose from, but there are a few restaurants in the Marktplatz. We chose a brewery close to the edge of town for lunch.

Michelstädter Rathausbräu

The Michelstädter Rathausbräu is a brewery and restaurant. It serves good food typical of the area. They don’t speak much english, so be prepared to whip out your translation guide or phone. However, the food is very good and they have their own brew on tap.

Rathausbräu Restaurant and Brewery – Mauerstraße – Michelstadt, Germany

References[+]

References
↑1	these are small brass memorials laid in the ground for jews and people who were killed, deported or driven to suizide

27 August, 20242 September, 2024

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany – Saved from destruction

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not doubt a miracle town amongst towns in Germany. Partially bombed during World War II, it took an American officer and the German commander of the city at the time to spare this town. The results of which, we are able to enjoy this middle-age town as it appears today, forty percent of which was nevertheless destroyed by allied bombing before it was stopped.

Panorama Tauber river valley – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

It is located in Bavaria and is about one and a half to two hours drive from the Frankfurt area on the A3 and A7, weather permitting of course. There are several parking areas to choose from for visitors, though we found street parking a block or so further out for free.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

If it weren’t for it’s strange history at the end of World War II, this town would be easily overlooked. Not necessarily by Germans, but definitely by international tourists always looking for some interesting sidebar or reason to visit. Luckily, even on a Saturday, we did not find it all that busy for a tourist destination. We only hope that it will stay that way.

Patti and Erick – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Patti and Dana – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Ericka and Dana – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Patti and Ericka – Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Seelbrunnen – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Marktplatz

The center square hosts various shops and restaurants, as well as the Town Hall and Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower. Saint George’s fountain can also be found here toward the lower part of the square.

Business shields – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Italian Ice place – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Spitalgasse with Spitalturm in distance – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Marktplatz – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Rathausturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Apotheke shield – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

St. George fountain – Marktplatz – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Dana – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Towers

Rothenburg has many towers on all sides of the town, especially on the eastern side. The main entrance towers are of course grander, but the little ones are no less impressive.

Gallows Gate – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Old unused staircase – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Front and entrance – Burgtorturm – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Röderturm – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

The City Wall

It is one of only three towns in Germany which is still encompassed by a fully intact town wall. The eastern part of the wall, the one which we were actually able to walk on, was mostly repaired after its destruction at the end of the war.

Deutschland_RothenburgObDerTauber_92

Several parts are boarded up or unreachable, but many people from around the world contributed funds in the effort to reconstruct it, making it possible to enjoy it today. There are several main entry points, Gallows Gate, Thomas Tower and one near Ruckesse Tower, to name a few.

Sterngasse and the city wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Tower on city wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Spitaltorturm – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Stairs at entry point – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Narrow entrance – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Gabi, Ericka, Dana and Patti – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Wall with removable roof – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Siebersturm – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Donation thank you – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Old guard tower – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Area by Röderturm – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Motte – Röderturm – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Röderturm gate – City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Thomas tower – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Flowers and grape leaves by City wall – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Restaurants

There are many restaurants to choose from in Rothenburg, many of which are located in or near the town square. Luckily, we failed on locating an Italian restaurant that was open, but it is August and the Italians are notorious for taking the entire month off for vacation. That forced to find the amazing place that we did below.

Reichsküchenmeister – Das Herz von Rothenburg

If you are able to obtain a seat in the garden, one of the go to places in Rothenburg for a weekend lunch or early dinner.

Reichskückenmeisterer – Herz von Rothenburg restaurant – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

The garden is just amazing, a totally relaxed atmosphere where we were fortunate enough to have a very responsive waiter. The menu is varied enough where one should be able to find something to fit their culinary needs.