Bled, Slovenia – A Blue Karawanken Gem

At the base of the Southern Limestone Alps^[1]They are additionally known as the Julian Alps., or Karawanken Mountains, sits the small town and lake of Bled . It is almost a must see place to go on a day trip from Ljubljana, especially if you have enough time. Since we have the time, we usually overbook our stays at places that are totally unknown to us. For Ljubljana specifically, and Slovenia in general, we were happy that we did, since it afforded us a day trip such as the one to Bled. Slovenia really is a great place to visit!

Bled – entrance from parking lot – panorama

Lake Bled – Getting There

To get to the lake you must travel northwest from Ljubljana, there is the E61 that can be taken by car or bus. The trip normally takes forty-five minutes by car, and up to an hour and a quarter by bus, but can take longer if there is an accident or construction on the highway. Upon the suggestion of the information booth by the Triple Bridge we took the bus, even though we now think the train may be faster. The bus is packed, so if you are worried about Covid-19, and you should, you should be prepared to wear you FFp2 mask.

It should be noted, the bus takes two different routes going to and coming from the lake, each taking about the same time. There is of course the train, which may actually take less time gong to and fromm Bled, but then you have about a twenty or so minute walk from the town of Bled Train Station to the lake. The bus on the other hand goes all the way to the lake, even though we chose to get off at the Blen Union station.

Bus Ride to Bled – Mountains along the way

Lake Bled – The Trail

Bled – Assumption of Mary Church on Slovenia’s only island

There is an excellent trail that totally circumnavigates the lake, going through several tourist beach and cafe points, any one of which you can take a pause in your walk to get refreshed.

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Here is a slideshow of our great afternoon walking the lake shore trail, enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery.

Bled – Lake Bled is surrounded by the Julian Alps

Bled – how the water runs through the rocks

Restaurants

Hotel Starkl Restaurant

Around 12:30 or so we stopped about three quarters of the way, going anti-clockwise around the lake, at the restaurant Hotel Starkl. It is best to get to any European tourist restaurant thirty to forty-five minutes in advance, because at one o’clock they fill up quickly. Here we purchased simple salads and enough wine and water to enjoy the fabulous weather.

References[+]

References
↑1	They are additionally known as the Julian Alps.

30 July, 2022

Ljubljana, Slovenia – The Dragon City

Continuing our Summer Trip of eastern Italy and Slovenia, and after a two and a half hour train ride from Trieste, is the charming city of Ljubljana, Slovenia. Actually, much to my surprise, stepping off the train there was a noticeable cleanliness to it all which rarely, if ever, went away. We even noticed this in some of the more off-beat areas and in other towns, that we ventured to on our day trips.

The Slovenians are no doubt a very orderly, patient people. This can also be witnessed in their driving, since it is very rare, almost uncommon to hear the sound of a horn. When asked, “Why is this?”, most reply with the simple retort, “Well it’s simply rude, and in most cases, unnecessary.”

Ljubljana, Lublana and Laybach

Ljubljana is a very old city, dating back to the twelfth and eleventh centuries, though a town called Emona stood here during Roman times. Myths and stories have linked it to Jason and the Argonauts and his struggles, and the killing of the great beast which inhabited the marsh nearby^[1]This is where the metaphor of the dragon comes in., which apparently was responsible for the great floods that occurred frequently. It later became synonymous with Ljubljana in the mid-twelfth century.

Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Dragons Bridge

Bridges In Lubljana

There are several noteworthy bridges in the city, the Dragon Bridge, the Triple Bridge, the Cobbler’s Bridge and the Butcher’s Bridge. There are several others, however these are the ones we spent the most time on and are the most remarkable.

The Dragon’s Bridge

Due to the myth it is probably appropriate that the city have a dragon bridge, one not only to remember Jason’s deeds, but also the ever present danger of the river itself.

The Triple Bridge

Not far from our hotel and adjacent to Prešeren Square is the Triple Bridge. It was originally one bridge, the central span, but as business and traffic increased the other two side bridges were added for pedestrian traffic.

The Cobbler’s Bridge

A quaint bridge that connects two important parts of the medieval city.

Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Cobblers Bridge

Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Patti on Cobblers Bridge

The Butcher’s Bridge

This bridge got its name, since it was near the place that the butchers of the city used to come and wash the carcasses of the animals. The blood and stench of rotting flesh this process brought down through the city must have been appalling. The practice was stopped soon after the residents had had enough of the smell. It is now decorated with locks and bronzes of mythological creatures.

Castle Hill

There are two prominent hills in Ljubljana, the one that contains Tivoli Park and Castle Hill, which contains the Ljubljana Castle.

Ljubljana Castle

Perched above the city on the Castle Hill is the Ljubljana Castle. In 1679, Valvasor did an engraving of the Laybach Castle, as it was known in German at the time, showing the castle and many other landmarks of Lublana.^[2]There are many spelling variations for this city, due to it being part of many different empires and countries throughout its history.

Ljubljana – Ljubljana and Castle From Castle Tower

Ljubljana – From Castle Tower – Panorama

The Ljubljanica River

As it goes through the city the river is split into two. A major section goes directly through the old city, offering tourists the possibility of buying a ticket and traveling part of it, up to where it divides. The boats cannot venture too far however, since parts of the river are reserved for wildlife and cannot be entered.

Sitting at one of the many cafes along the waterway, one can wile away the afternoon sipping a drink and just watching the boats meander along.

Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – River Boats

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Boat Tours

Both looking at the tour boats ply the water and actually taking a boat trip is both relaxing and very enjoyable. We decided one evening to take one and see where it actually goes and found it very interesting.

Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour – Triple Bridge

Ljubljana – Ljubljanica River – Boat Tour

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Walking Tour Of The City

Here is a slideshow of some of the other sights in the city.

Ljubljana – Ljubljana University – Europa Fountain

Ljubljana – Drevored na Adamič-Lundrovem nabrežju – Portico by the Market

Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain

Ljubljana – Herkulov vodnjak – Hercules Fountain and Square

Restaurants

Gostilna Sokol Restaurant

This is a traditional Slovenian restaurant, service many of the authentic dishes and also some non-Slovenian favorites, so anyone who visits can find something to eat. For us it was the traditional fried sausage, or Kranjska Klobasa with pickled turnips and roasted potatoes.

Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Patti

Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Fried Sausage with Pickled Turnips and Potatoes

Ljubljana – Gostilna Sokol Restaurant – Hisna Gibanica

Cantina Mexicana Restaurant

The Cantina Mexicana is a very good mexican restaurant that features both Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine. It wasn’t too difficult to find something appetizing among the enormous selection of food they offer in their menu.

Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant – Barbecued Chicken

Ljubljana – Cantina Mexicana Restaurant – Patti

References[+]

References
↑1	This is where the metaphor of the dragon comes in.
↑2	There are many spelling variations for this city, due to it being part of many different empires and countries throughout its history.

26 July, 2022

Piran, Slovenia – An Adriatic Anomaly

Aside from the Adriatic Magnetic Anomaly, there is an additional one along the the Adriatic Coast that few know about, it’s called Piran.

I call it an anomaly, because one appears to have no other reasonable way of getting there except by car, which for Europe, one has to admit is very strange.^[1]There are several other forms of transportation, but none of them go and return on the same day and almost all run irregularly.

Piran – A Day Trip From Trieste

After our Get Your Guide guide cancelled on us, we had to arrange a transfer through our hotel concierge using Taxi Trieste, in order to visit this town for one day. They were actually very good and came in under the amount quoted by the other service (160€ versus 198€), although in this case to be fair, it was just for the transfer and not an all-day stop-and-go tour.

Piran – Taxi Trieste – Perhaps the only way to get to Piran and back in one day

Piran The City

Piran is located on the Piran peninsula and juts out like a triangle into the Adriatic Sea, the Gulf of Piran to one side and the Gulf of Trieste to the other. One can immediately see that the city itself and its architecture have been strongly influenced by both the Venetians and the Hapsburgs (Austro-Hungarian Empire). The church towers have that Venetian look to them, as well as many of the houses and business structures outlining the Tartini Piazza.

Piran – The Streets Going up to the wall

Piran – The Old Church Saint Mary of Healing and the Lighthouse

Piazza Tartini

A small plaza that is adorned with a few bronze statues, all which center around the statue of Giuseppe Tartini, the composer and violinist. There are some restaurants, a few businesses and administrative buildings to compliment its surroundings. However, the marble in the middle of the piazza is quite new and shiny and would appear to be a slippery hazard during inclement weather, so be careful.

Piran – Tartini Plaza – Giuseppe Tartini Statue – Violinist

The Town Wall

Remnants of the old town wall still exist and for a small sum, 3€ each, you may walk the section that is still open.

Piran – The City Wall – Patti on the wall

Piran – The City Wall – View of other section

There isn’t really that much to see, aside from its stone masonry and the views it affords to the surrounding area and town.

Piran – The City Wall – View of the Adriatic

The Church Of Saint George’s Parish

The church stands on the west side of the town on top of the hill overlooking the Gulf of Trieste. From its courtyard, Trieste can be seen in the distance, as well as Miramare Castle.

Restaurants

While here, we only had occasion to visit one restaurant for lunch, since we were due to be picked back up at one o’clock in the afternoon.

Ristorante Mestna Kavarna

A fusion of wine bar and restaurant, the Mestna Kavarna caters to most tastes. It offers many simple things, including salads and paninis, and of course wide selection of drinks. We found something to satisfy us before our ride arrived.

Piran – Ristorante Mestna Kavarna – Greek Salad

References[+]

References
↑1	There are several other forms of transportation, but none of them go and return on the same day and almost all run irregularly.

25 July, 202225 July, 2022

Trieste, Italy – Faro Della Vittoria and More

The Rest of Trieste

Before our time here was over, we still had several remaining places throughout Trieste in which to visit. Mainly the waterfront further down along the marina, a few piazzas, the XX September and the Victoria Lighthouse.

XX September

A beautiful avenue on which to shop, eat or just walk on a hot day (it is covered with trees, so there is plenty of shade). We found time to visit this street a few times, since the train and bus stations we use were more or less inline with it. See restaurants section for more information on possible places to eat.

Trieste – Fountain of the Two-Faced Janus

Trieste – More via XX September – Flower Shop

If you are looking for something off-beat to eat, fast food or eclectic stores to shop, this is the street.

The Marina

There are several things to note at the marina, as well as the very large cruise ships that come into port on the weekends to visit. Though the Aquarium is closed for renovation, there are still shops and restaurants along this waterfront in which to enjoy.

Trieste – Riva Nazario Sauro – Along The Waterfront

Trieste – Statue of the Archduke Ferdinand Maximillian – Remember Miramare Castle?

The Muzio de Tommasini Park

Located very near the Piazza Oberdan is the park Muzio de Tommasini. A beautiful park with several bronze sculptors visitors can enjoy, awaits you here.

Trieste – Muzio de Tommasini Public Park

The Faro Della Vittoria Lighthouse

In order to reach the Faro della Vittoria lighthouse, you either have to drive, or take a taxi or bus, there is no train service to it.

Trieste – Tickets For Two – All Day Bus Tickets

Trieste – Piazza Oberdan – Main Bus Stop

Buses 42 and 44, from Piazza Oberdan, can take you here in twenty minutes for a modest fee of about one euro sixty. We purchased the all-day ticket for three euros each, which was actually cheaper, since it covered both going there and our return.

Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse

Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Observation Platform View

At over sixty meters in height, the lighthouse is one of the tallest in the world. Inside there is a small museum and the circular stairway that ascends to the first viewing deck, about fifty steps. Though we arrived during the weekend, the upper part of the lighthouse was no longer open.

Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Museum Inside

Trieste – Faro della Vittoria Lighthouse – Bronze of the Lighthouse Top

Restaurants

Bella de Napoli

A small restaurant on XX September that serves Neapolitan fare is Bella Napoli. We stopped for lunch and had a very good meal for under forty euros.

Trieste – Bella Napoli – Spaghetti with Pancetta and Onion

24 July, 2022

Trieste, Italy – Miramare Castle and More

Miramare

From the Trieste Train Station it is possible to take a local or regional train for a day trip and visit the Castle of Miramare just north of the city. Tickets are available via the TrennItalia application, at the ticket counter or vending machines.

On the walk to the train station we were able to stop and enjoy some of the monuments and fountains that we missed on our previous walks.

Trieste – Statua dell’Imperatrice Elisabetta d’Austria

Miramare Castle Park

Before reaching the castle, there is a very beautiful park that surrounds it. Its shade was very welcome with temperatures reaching the mid 90s.

Miramare – Patti in Miramare Castle Park

Miramare – Castle viewed from Miramare Castle Park trail

Miramare – Miramare Castle Park – Boy with Swan fountain

Miramare – Miramare Castle Park – Duck Pond

Miramare – Miramare Castle Park – Entrance to Castle

The park is actually very well maintained. Undergrowth is allowed to grow where it should and well pruned in other areas. There are benches everywhere, so feel free to sit down and enjoy the quiet while you can, birds and cicadas notwithstanding.

Miramare Castle

The Miramare Castle was built in the mid eighteen hundreds by Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximillian and his wife. The castle is rather small, but fits well into the coastline and has some interesting internal features, including a Chinese Room.

Miramare – Miramare Castle – Gulf of Trieste

Restaurants

A short walk north on the path down to Grignano will bring you to the marina where several restaurants are located. We chose Tavernetta al Molo for lunch and were not disappointed.

Tavernetta al Molo

A small establishment by the marina that has a good menu, including daily seafood specials, drinks and desserts. We spent about two hours eating, relaxing and enjoying a rest during a very hot day.

Grignano – Travernetta al Molo – Grilled Tuna, Potato and Tomato

Grignano – Travernetta al Molo – Spaghetti in Lobster Sauce

Grignano – Travernetta al Molo – Bay of Grignano

23 July, 2022

Trieste, Italy – Churches, a Castle and a Canal

On our second day in Trieste we thought it appropriate to check out some local churches, visit the amazing fortress perched above the city and then visit the Grand Canal for lunch.

Trieste – The Grand Canal – Church of Sant’Antonio Nuovo

The Hill of San Giusto

A few blocks walk from our hotel and situated in the center of the old city is the hill of San Giusto, or Saint Justus. The following interesting sights can be seen by planning a day trip to see them all, with ample time for breaks and lunch!

Churches, Basilicas and Cathedrals

Trieste has a plethora of churches of all Christian faiths to visit. The following are noteworthy and some are actually no longer active nor Catholic.

The Basilica of San Silvestro

The oldest church in Trieste, built in the twelfth century in Romanesque style, it contains many fourteenth century frescoes. It was closed when the Austro-Hungarian Empire conquered the area and converted into a church of Waldensians.

The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore

Currently owned by the region of Trieste, this once proud church was also a barracks and a prison. Now it is just a false collection place for Catholics dropping euros to light candles.

The Cathedral of San Giusto

Situated on the San Giusto hill and the via della Cathedral is the cathedral of San Giusto, also known as the Trieste Cathedral. The cathedral is home to some very impressive bells and for a modest sum, one can visit them after climbing the 90 or so steps in the bell tower.

Trieste – Cathedral di San Giusto Martire

Ascending the bell tower also reveals an interesting secret, it is not one structure built for the purpose of worship, but rather three.

Trieste – Roman Reliefs in the Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire

Evidence of its ancient roots can be found while climbing the stairs and its history can be found written in the books of the gift shop or other history books.

Trieste – Tower of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire

Trieste – Tower Stairs of the Tower the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire

Trieste – Bells of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire

Adjacent to the cathedral is the Roman Propylaea. The view from the bell tower offers a great chance to see that layout of this important Roman structure from above.

Trieste – View from the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire

Trieste – Roman Propylaeum or Columns of the Cathedral di San Giusto Martire

The Castle of San Giusto

On this impressive hill and a short walk away from the Roman Propylaea and Cathedral also stands a castle, which was built on top of ancient remains of older castles.

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Tickets for Two

It has both an impressive armory museum and a Lapidary, which contains a myriad of ancient mosaic tiles and other artifacts.

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Entrance

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Map of Trieste

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Cathedrale

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – The Armory

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Fireplace

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Elaborate Doorway

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Ramparts

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Mosaics

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Statues

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Statues and Reliefs

Trieste – Castle di San Giusto – Lapidary – Lintels

Trieste Grand Canal

Being a port city, there are several things to see by the water, the Grand Canal is probably the first thing you will notice. It is actually a very nice place to have lunch, since there are a number of restaurants and cafes along the via Vincenzo Bellini, or the street where the Grand Canal is located.

Trieste – The Grand Canal – Looking toward the Sea

Bronze Statues

There are several bronzes throughout the city, most celebrating famous individuals who have lived here for a time. Here are a few.

Trieste – The Grand Canal – James Joyce Bronze

21 July, 2022

Trieste, Italy – Our Smokey Arrival

After months of planning, we finally arrived in Trieste after our seven hour train trip, which turned into a nine hour ordeal at the end. This was totally unforeseen because of the weather and a huge forest fire that started burning the day before in the Carso region. We were halted by Italian authorities in Monfalcone from using the train, which runs between Monfalcone and Trieste, due to the fire’s proximity to the train tracks. The E70 and the train line that runs along the coast here were closed out of an abundance of caution.

Unity of Italy Square – Smoke From Carso Wildfire

We were all loaded onto buses and transported on local roads, all of which were backed up by re-routed traffic, extending our trips an extra hour. Only to be dropped off at the next available train station. We had assumed they were taking us all the way to Trieste by bus, but that was not in their calculus. Instead, we waited for the other buses to arrive at the next train station until the next train to Trieste left, which actually was only forty minutes later. So all-in-all, not as bad as some of the horror stories one hears about air travelers.

Trieste – Roman Veins

While walking the city, one can see that Trieste has some very deep cultural veins, when it comes to ancient Rome and the remains they left behind. From the Roman Theatre, to the aqueducts that brought water into the city, the Romans had a strong influence over the city.

Trieste – The City

The city is very clean and pedestrian friendly. There are many open public spaces and a beautiful promenade along the waterway. Visitors will find it a very inviting and friendly place to walk and experience.

Unity of Italy Square – Palazzo del Municipio di Trieste

Unity of Italy Square – Prefettura di Trieste

The Hilton Hotel DoubleTree

The hotel is situated at the Piazza Repubblica on via Mazzini and directly in front of a bus stop. It is within eight minutes of the train station and very close to public parking. So any form of transportation you use will get you quickly to the hotel.

Trieste – Piazza Repubblica – Hilton Hotel DoubleTree

Trieste – Hilton Hotel DoubleTree – Foyer

Restaurants

Chimerina Ristorante

We had a very nice meal at this restaurant. Its cuisine centers around seafood and just very good Italian food. It is located in the old Jewish Ghetto of the city and has that old town feeling. The food is excellent.

Trieste – The Jewish Ghetto – Chimerina Ristorante – Spaghetti Vongole

Trieste – The Jewish Ghetto – Chimerina Ristorante – Grilled Ham with Carmelized Onions, Horseradish and Peppers

23 June, 2022

Our Fateful Trip To Greece – Act III

Santorini – An Evil Eye

Well we took the ferry from Naxos to Santorini and as luck would have it, it was very smooth. We were kind of worried about it, because the prior days leading up to our excursion, it was very windy and the water was extremely rough. My wife had already related to me, that in rough seas, they sometimes cancel the ferries between islands; we didn’t need any of that. It was bad enough that she had contracted bronchitis and was just getting her voice back. In fact, my son-in-law also had a cold, making their holiday just a bit more annoying than usual.

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We were off the ferry in no time and looking for our driver, which with all of the vehicles and people, was actually easier than I had thought it was going to be. After sitting in the car for about fifteen minutes, waiting for the long procession of cars, buses, trucks and other vehicles to make it up the cliff, the road before us had more switchbacks than teeth on a saw. But it was slow going, so motion sickness never became an issue.

Naxos to Santorini – Ferry on the Aegean Sea

Naxos to Santorini – Gabi, Patti, Dana, Tristan and Ericka

Once we reached the top and made it through the stop sign, we were in our Heliotopos Hotel in Imerovigli in no time. On Santorini we actually split our vacation between two different hotels, one in Imerovigli and one in Oia. And aside from the driver from the shuttle service driving past our hotel in Oia, for which we had a fairly long walk in the heat, no other problems befell us while on Santorini.

Naxos to Santorini – Imerovigli and Thira from Ferry

Another island in the Cyclades island chain, Santorini is a large caldera formed from an ancient volcano that blew its top some time around 1450 BCE. When it did, it had a major impact on the Minoan population that had settled on the chain of islands.

One might say the island of Santorini now looks like a great Greek Evil Eye from the sky. A small ring of islands with a caldera of water and a center made from the remaining two active volcanoes. If of course one is superstitious like that.

Imerovigli – A Volcanic Aerie

At the highest point on the largest piece of the caldera that still remains, sits Imerovigli. It is perched on and along the cliff, as though some flock of birds had built it. Yet historically most of the initial building were for wine making and production, later repurposed for the tourist industry.

Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel

It is actually amazing, how after such a catastrophe, that individuals would continue to build on such notorious ground. Though one can imagine, that after a few hundred years with the volcano’s silence, they probably could not resist planting in the rich volcanic soil.

The Heliotopos Hotel

We stayed at the Heliotopos Hotel in Imerovigli, which is strategically located on the footpath to Thira, for those wishing that early morning walk, or just access to the island path that actually goes from Thira all the way to Oia.

Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – Panorama

Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – Caldera Wall

Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – After Sunset

Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – At Night

Imerovigli, Santorini – Heliotopos Hotel – Oia At Night

Imerovigli, Santorini – Blue Domes and Churches

Skaros Rock

A short twenty minute hike from hotel was Skaros Rock. A broken piece of caldera that looks more like a mesa than anything belonging to a volcano.

Though thoroughly signed as dangerous, there is nothing preventing anyone from hiking the path around the rocky projection. Read all the signs carefully and make your own decision.

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – The Rock

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – 93 Steps down, walk, 75 more steps down, walk, 55 steps up

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Oia

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Cruise Ships

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Old Fortress

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Danger

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – More Fallen Rock

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Thira

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Panorama

Imerovigli, Santorini – Skaros Rock Hike – Fallen Rock Danger

I would caution, the north side is a bit challenging for anyone with balance or other issues, one misstep and one could fall pretty far, perhaps leading to death or serious injury.

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Oia – Caldera Cutie

A Greek jewel clad in white wash and white marble is essentially what Oia is to those who visit its tourist filled streets and alleys. Make no mistake, if you visit Oia, there will be crowds; all trying to get that perfect social media photograph. This is especially the case in the evening, when they are all out trying to get their sunset pictures.

There is not a lot of real estate in Oia, so some will find it very confining. But it is worth a visit, though I would not spend more than a few days here. Boredom being defined here as a slow Oia drip. If I had to do it over again I would probably just visit it for the day and perhaps have one evening dinner there, the rest is just too touristy for me.

Oia, Santorini – Looking Toward Old Windmill

Oia, Santorini – Parekklesio Church from Castle

Oia, Santorini – Old Church and Bronze Bells

Oia, Santorini – Church of Panagia Akathistos Hymn

Oia, Santorini – Small Harbor by Oia Steps

Oia, Santorini – The Oia Steps and Harbor

Oia, Santorini – Nik. Nomikou Marble Pedestrian Way

Oia, Santorini – Typical Building Color Scheme

The Atrina Cavana 1894 Hotel

We stayed at the Atrina Cavana 1894 in the Atrina Villa for our anniversary. It was very spacious and has all the amenities one should need, it even has a kitchenette for those who wish to cook in on occasion.

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava 1894 – Entrance

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Patti

Since real estate is at a premium, not all hotels in Oia have pools, our hotel was probably an exception. Not only did we have access to a pool, but we also had a hot tub with our villa that all of us took advantage. The pool was actually a bit cold and the surface was very slippery. We had fun anyway.

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Anniversary Message and Champagne

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Bedroom

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Kitchen and Extra Bathroom

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Fireplace, Living Room and Bedroom

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Kitchen Entrance

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Connecting Hallway

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Private Entrance

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava 1894 Pool

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Patti, Ericka, Tristan and Dana

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Gabi

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Patti and Ericka

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Stairs to Dock

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – Cliffside

Oia, Santorini – Atrina Canava Villa – At Night

Restaurants

There are many good restaurants in Santorini, probably only during tourist season, since many do not open until late May or early June. Many cruise ships also visit the island starting in June and ferry passengers near Thira, so it is best to make reservations, at least if you are staying on the island and know your itinerary.

Finding a place in Thira, Imerovigli or Oia, at least one that has both a sunset view and exceptional food, may be challenging, but not impossible. We actually were able to do both, here are a few that we visited for either lunch or dinner.

Avocado

Situated in Imerovigli and not necessarily one of the best places to view a sunset, the Avocado restaurant has good food and a pretty good wine list. We chose it, because it was very close to our hotel and we were all a bit tired.

The service was as expected and since we sat outside, we were able to enjoy the sunset and had a very nice evening eating and talking.

Avocado Restaurant – Ribeye with Potatoes

Avocado Restaurant – Snapper with Spinach

Avocado Restaurant – Lamb Shank on Potatoes

Kastro Restaurant

The Kastro restaurant in Oia is known for its amazing sunset venue. Book at table during the summer for around 7:30 and you will have it long enough to the enjoy a beautiful sunset in Oia. The view of the caldera is just fantastic and the food is not bad either. Personally, I didn’t take any sunset photographs here, since I think the sunsets from Imerovigli are better.

Oia, Santorini – Kastro Restaurant – Patti and Erick – 40th Anniversary Dinner

Oia, Santorini – Going to Kastro Restaurant

DaVinci Restaurant

Needing a break from all of the Greek food we found an Italian restaurant called DaVinci’s in Thira. They make traditional Italian food and pizza, as well as the expected Greek gyro or souvlaki. We stopped here for lunch and had a very good meal, at very reasonable prices.

Alexios

A quick change in our plans during our last evening on Santorini led us to Alexios in Oia. Closer to our hotel, it too has a very good outside patio on which to view the sunset. The food was traditional Greek and okay, but at this point I had already seen enough Greek food, which honestly is a bit too meat-centric for my taste.

Alexios Restaurant – Patti, Ericka and Tristan

Alexios Restaurant – Main Pedestrian Way

Pitogyros Traditional Grill House

I will be honest, I am not sure what a traditional grill house is in Greece or on Santorini. But, if the number of people trying to get into this place at any given time is any indication, they seem to have named the place right at least. At Pitogyros in Oia, the food is mostly traditional meat gyros and souvlaki served in a pita or a platter, as well as other dishes. Most dishes are served with french fries, with the exception of their salads. A very inexpensive place to eat, if you can get a place to sit. We waited for thirty minutes before our party of six were seated, which honestly probably was not that bad, considering it was around two o’clock in the afternoon.

Pitogyros Traditional Grill House – Our Table

Pitogyros Traditional Grill House – Pita Gyros with Fries

Wines

We drank the following wines while on Santorini, along with a few others. But, we feel the following deserve mention.

Santorini – Wines – Argyros Estate, 2019 – Front

Santorini – Wines – Argyros Estate, 2019 – Back

Wines – BΙBλΙΑ XΩPA, BIBlIA XOPA, 2021 – Front Label – Sauvignon Blanc

Wines – BΙBλΙΑ XΩPA, BIBlIA XOPA, 2021 – Back Label – Sauvignon Blanc

Santorini – Wines – Saint Nikolas, 2018 – Front

Santorini – Wines – Saint Nikolas, 2018 – Back

Epilog

We finally left Santorini and dropped our sons off at the airport for their flight back to the United States. Of course, the weather had been beautiful for two weeks and we were not complaining. But as Greece would have it, it threw one last punch at us before they left. While we were sitting having lunch in Athens with Ericka and Gabi, thunderstorms had moved in and it poured, subsequently delaying their flight from the airport. Though the delay was over an hour, it luckily did not impact their connecting flight and they made it home perhaps just a little later than expected. After all of the other travel horror stories we have been hearing about, we considered ourselves lucky, even after everything that had happened.

Post Script

If you have any heard horror stories about traveling as of late, they are not fiction, they are probably TRUE. Traveling, due to latent affects of combating Covid, the war in Ukraine and other things, has turned traveling into a true hell.

If you have the ability to wait, I would do so, at least until certain things like airline staffing have been reconciled.

If you cannot wait and have connections, I would suggest booking any initial flights to your destination for a day early. This may cause extra expense and staying overnight in a hotel, but it might save you the headache of missing an important connection, especially on long haul flights that have multiple connections or even a international cruise.

Do NOT trust anything your airline or train service will tell you, it only takes one thunderstorm or some last minute strike to start a massive backlog these days. Good luck!

19 June, 202219 June, 2022

Our Fateful Trip To Greece – Act II

Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo – Panorama

Naxos – Uncommon Forgetfulness

Well, we had just barely left Athens on our way to Naxos Island, when I discovered the feeling that my phone was not in my back pocket. That usually was not so alarming, since when traveling I often take it out and put it in my backpack, so I wouldn’t forget it in what ever form of transportation we were using. I got no further then reaching for my backpack’s zipper, when a dreadful calm came over me. I knew exactly where it was – and it was not with me.

I looked at my wife, with a short pause and a sigh, then told her that I had left my phone back at the hotel. She retorted immediately if I were sure, I responded that I was and that it was actually worse than I had originally thought. Not only had I forgotten my phone, but I had forgotten to take all our money and valuables out of the hotel room’s safe. Exasperated, I immediately informed our private shuttle driver what had happened and that we had to turn around. He assured us not to worry and that all we be alright.

Naxos Airport Terminal – Olympic Airlines – Our Plane

We quickly called the hotel reception what had happened and they responded that they had been trying to get in touch with us. We then let the driver, who speaks very good English and of course Greek, to help explain the situation. We figured out all of the logistics, so that while he continued to take us to the airport, one of the driver’s colleagues drove to the hotel and picked up all of our stuff (after giving him the security code to the safe). With the hotel staff overseeing everything, they sealed our stuff in a bag and the driver was off to the airport. In less than an hour, we were back in possession of my phone and the rest of our travel documents and money. Wow, that was the first time that has ever happened.

In the meantime, while we were waiting and much to our delight, our flight had been delayed by an hour and twenty minutes. So, we felt comfortable that we had plenty of time to wait for the driver, then check in and check all our baggage for Naxos. As soon as the driver returned and we had all of our stuff, we obtained our tickets and started to check in our luggage at the self-service counter, waiting on line like everyone else. However, just as we were next in line, I noticed that the flight was no longer delayed, it was on time; how can that happen?!

This left us about thirty minutes to finish baggage self-check in and board the aircraft. Undaunted we pushed on. Two of us were successful self checking our baggage, but as soon as the boarding time for the aircraft arrived, the software locked the rest of us out. What a nightmare. The attendant for Aegean Airlines quickly realized the issue and got us over to another counter so our bags got checked in immediately, with all the proper RUSH stickers applied to them, and we were on our way through security.

Naxos Island Hotel – View From Rooftop Terrace Restaurant

Needless to say, we made our flight and were soon enjoying the hospitality of our hosts at the Naxos Island Hotel. Since our flight was on time, we arrived before the appropriate check in time, but no worries, our rooms were ready and we were hustled to our rooms, bags and all by our hosts. After a quick refresh, we went to lunch. It was time to really be on vacation, but we were all still wondering, what else could go wrong? Unfortunately, things would uncharacteristically continue to happen to us.

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Naxos – The Island

The largest of the Cyclodaes, Naxos is a large oblong island with a central mountainous region with peaks high enough to create their own weather. The island is known for its beaches, most of which are sandy, but the type of sand created from eroded rock and not from reefs, it is therefore fairly coarse to walk on and can become very hot in the sun, so bring your sandals.

Cycling Naxos

For the adventurous, or those just wishing to get out and explore, Naxos offers some fairly good cycling. There are a few places where you can rent bicycles. However, if you are looking for something more advanced, you should reserve your equipment before you leave.

We rented our road bikes from Naxos Bikes and were not disappointed. Though a bit dated, all of the bikes performed as stated. The owners were eager to supply enough tubes, pumps and other equipment (helmets) as needed. The only thing we had to bring were our own clothes, shoes and Garmins. They delivered and picked up right at our hotel for a modest fee, so we didn’t have to worry about getting into town prior to our ride.

Naxos, Naxos – Cycling Day 2 – Relax Restaurant – Tristan

Cycling Naxos – Tristan and Erick – Day 1

Cycling Naxos – Gabi and Tristan – Day 1

Cycling Naxos – Crappy Concrete Road – Day 1

We really enjoyed touring Naxos, though I would suggest planning your route before you leave your hotel, as not all roads are suitable for road bikes (if you make a wrong turn, you will see what I mean).

Naxos – The City

The modern part of Naxos is pretty little port city built into a small hill that of course has a church and castle built on top of it. The hill has very interesting narrow winding streets that one can peruse and occasionally shop at the stores that dot the way.

The Venetian Castle of Naxos is not much to look at, and from what we could tell, not open to the public, since all the entrances appear locked, signed and boarded up.

Naxos, Naxos – Alleyway To Castle – Old Market Entrance

Naxos, Naxos – The Castle – Walking Through Part Of The Castle

The Catholic Cathedral at the top is open to the public, but when we arrived it was during lunch and we were not going to stay until later in the afternoon for them to reopen. It was just a passing thought, since our real intent was to find a place to each lunch ourselves.

The Temple of Apollo

The interesting form that we first came in contact with at our hotel has an actual presence on the island. The Temple of Apollo are the remains of a structure to the god Apollo built by Lygdamis the tyrant in the sixth century BCE on a peninsula just off the harbor of Naxos City. In fact he never actually completed it. Before he could do so, he was conquered by the Spartan army in 524 BCE and never saw power again.

Due to its age and no doubt having been plundered over the millennia, all that stands after repeated excavations and reconstructions, is the gate itself. It stands with its lintel and two sides upright on a small outcropping of rock just to the north of the city against the stark blue Aegean sky.

Naxos, Naxos – And Its Jetty From The Temple of Apollo

Naxos, Naxos – Temple of Apollo – Statue outside

Our Day Tour

Naxos being such a large island, requires you to at least spend a day exploring areas other than its beaches. We used Naxos Luxury Transport as our Tour Guides to explore a few sites we wanted to see, as well as some others that were suggested by our guide. The entire tour was six hours, most of which was in a van, but included many stops, including Sangry or Sangri (also known as the Temple of Demeter), Manolis Pottery, Chalkio and the Citron distillery, the Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue, the town of Apeiranthos and the Eggares Olive Oil Museum.

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It was right around this time that my wife Patti became very sick with bronchitis. To the point at which, she had lost almost her entire voice before we reached the Olive Oil museum in Eggares. What ever dark cloud or spell we were under, it appeared to have followed us into the Naxos hills. I started to wonder, what else could befall us?

The Temple Of Sangri

Perhaps a forty-five minute drive from Naxos is the Temple of Sangri. It is also called the Temple of Demeter or the Temple of Kore, there are also signs that the cult of Apollo may have used the site.

It is an archaic temple that was built on Naxos in the six century BCE. For a Greek temple it is square, rather than the usual rectangular shape. Models that reconstruct its initial design call for a smart, efficient building using internal columns of varying lengths, so that a full marble, translucent roof and ceiling could be accommodated. This provided soft, even internal lighting during the daytime, so that little if any additional lighting was needed.

The Pottery Of Limpertas Manolis

As any typical tour would inject, we visited the local pottery establishment of Limpertas Manolis. His apparent claim to fame was in creating eccentric, yet useful oil decanters and other novel vessels to store things. He also makes the odd spoon holder, vase, cups and saucers.

Our Day Tour – Limpertas Manolis Pottery

Clearly an artist, since his small place was strewn with all kinds of broken and forgotten pieces. Let alone his clear penchant for throwing the odd clay ball at the wall, for which was clearly evident by the definitive and unnatural accumulation growing from the vertical surface from where he sat.

Distillery Vallindras

In Chalkio, or Chalki, as some prefer; you can find the distillery M. G. Vallindras. This is an old firm which makes an aperitif widely known throughout Greece, known as Kitron, it comes in three varieties (and colors), depending on the sugar and alcohol content.

Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery

It is a very interesting distillery to visit and learn how this special Greek aperitif is made using Star Anise and other plants. Well worth a stop, if only to pick up a few bottles of their timeless spirits. Most will find the green and yellow varieties more to their liking, they are not as harsh or dry as the clear variety. The taste is more austere than a Molinari Extra or a Ramazzotti, but pleasant after a dinner nonetheless.

Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Alembic

Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Old Bottles

Our Day Tour – Chalki – Kipton Distillery – Two of Three Variaties

The Flerio Melanes Kouros

Probable one of the more obscure places to visit archeologically on Naxos is the unfinished Kouros. Located not far from the intersection of the Naxou-Monis and Naxou-Chalkiou roads, you should find a small place to park, it’s rather rural so it should be no problem.

Naxos – The Koyros or Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue

If you are in the right place, there will be some signs indicating the way.

Naxos – The Walkway to Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue

Once found, the Flerio Melanes Kouros is a small walk away up a paved walkway. It appears to reside in a small stone fenced yard, but cannot leave since one of its legs are broken.

Naxos – The Flerio Melanes Kouros Statue

If you have the time there are a few other things to see in the area. The Faragi Kouros is not far from here and is close to other stones that apparently were chosen for other works, but never started.

Apeiranthos

A small town in the hills of Naxos, obtainable only by car, is worth a trip, if only to see its marbled streets and pedestrian ways. If you are on a tour, its a good place to stop for lunch and wander the streets until you are ready to eat. There are many interesting shops to explore and some novel architecture to experience. An hour or two would suffice in order to do both.

Apeiranthos, Naxos – Marble, marble everywhere

Apeiranthos, Naxos – Main Pedestrian Way

Apeiranthos, Naxos – The marble walkways

Apeiranthos, Naxos – Looking Out At The Hills

Eggares Olive Oil Museum

A small private museum showing the discipline of olive oil making can be found not more that a half hour drive from Naxos harbor. The Eggares Olive Oil Museum has a small collection of old oil presses, as well as other tools and the complete history of their firm.

The museum continues to sell olive oil and olives that it produces in the gift shop. Unfortunately we did not purchase any, since most of the products are not bottled and perhaps not suitable for a return flight. So, instead of taking a chance, we opted out of bringing a sample home.

Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Old Mill Stone

Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Winch Used To Turn The Millstone

Eggares, Naxos – The Eggares Olive Oil Museum – Olive Millstone

Restaurants

The beach where our hotel was situated was well endowed with restaurants. What follows is only a sample of what is available, but all have very good menus and delicious food.

Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant

Though we had reservations at another restaurant, we had all decided that we were hungry and had to eat a little early.

So, we headed back down to the harbor from our sojourn up the hill of Naxos and its castle. There we found the Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant, which as can be imagined, serves numerous authentic Greek dishes.

Naxos, Naxos – Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant – Patti, Ericka, Gabi and Dana

Naxos, Naxos – Taverna Authentic Greek Cuisine Restaurant – Patti, Ericka and Gabi

Taverna “O Giannoulis”

Soon after we arrived, we ate lunch at the Taverna O Giannoulis and enjoyed a very nice meal with water, wine and all the supplements. They have a great Greek menu, the service is very quick and the seating outside is perfect (though we went in June, so heat was never an issue).

Amorginos Tavern

While on our Naxos day tour, we stopped in the town of Apeiranthos, the one where all the streets and pedestrian ways are made of marble. One of two places recommended by our guide, we chose it for its menu and selection of foods.

There is plenty of outside seating, though we sat just indoors, in order to avoid the midday sun. The service was pretty good, though the food was served randomly, apparently whenever it was ready. Which is good if you ordered something hot, but if you expect your food to come out all at once for your group, you may want to go elsewhere. The food was excellent, as was the local wine and the prices were very reasonable.

The Relax Cafe

No ride is complete without a coffee stop, and perhaps a bite to eat. After our second morning ride, we decided that we would stop in town, Naxos, and visit the Relax Cafe on the water; not only to enjoy the view, the wind and surf, but also some good coffee and what turned out to be amazing vegetable and cheese omelets (the secret it appears, is not just throwing the freshly cut veggies into the scrambled eggs, but to barbecue or fry them a bit first, infusing them with the burnt taste, yu-ummm).

Naxos, Naxos – Cycling Day 3 – Relax Restaurant – Tristan

Highly recommended place for breakfast, unless of course you are timid about calories, as avid cyclist, we aren’t. Enjoy!

Del Mar Cafe

Situated almost in the middle of our strand is the Del Mar Cafe. An Italian restaurant that caters to all needs, especially those nagging Italian taste buds that some of us have. Angela and Marco moved from Italy eight years ago and are excellent hosts, they will ensure your meal is prepared to your expectations. We went here several times for lunch and dinner and used their beach services as well; their wines are also very good, we were never disappointed.

Wines

The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Naxos. Most are inexpensive wines, all are from Greece or the neighboring islands and are completely drinkable and satisfying.

15 June, 2022

Our Fateful Trip To Greece – Act I

Athens – Superstitious Beginnings

This blog article is split into three separate acts. Not necessarily in homage to the Greek tradition of plays, but more that our trip turned out to be more of a Greek tragedy. A milder version of one of course, but one nonetheless.

We do not know if it’s the land of bad karma, bad juju or what, but for the first time in our long lineage of trips, almost everything that could go wrong did. That is not to say, there is something wrong with Greece as a whole, it could just be us (and probably is), or we just may happened to have had a bad sequence of events occur. However, always being guided by the premise that bad luck runs in threes, we are now beginning to think that is just an arbitrary number, it appears it can also be all sixes and sevens.

To add some preamble here, there were six of us traveling from three different parts of the globe. My wife and I from Italy, Ericka and Gabriel (Gabi) from Germany and our two sons, Dana and Tristan, from the United States.

The first sign there would be any trouble was a line of storms that developed the day of travel and stalled along the east coast. Since they were flying into JFK, both of my sons had their flights canceled. They were able to get booked again for the next day, after having wasted their entire Friday sitting in an airport or on an airplane. Luckily, the new logistics worked and they made it to Athens a day late and one vacation day less, but with all of their luggage.

Once altogether, we learned that our son Dana and our son-in-law Gabi had both gotten colds, so right away we were thinking of the possibility of Covid. Luckily, that was not the case either, they were just feeling the effects of common colds brought on by loosening restrictions.

In any event, we pressed on with our vacation. The next day, upon trying to enter a museum, we quickly discovered that I had purchased a five day pass for everyone, which of course did not start until our last full day in Athens. Not sure how I did that, but I just chalked it up to old age and moved on. Luckily, nothing else happened to us the next few day in Athens.

Athens – The City

The modern part of Athens is typical city for a city of central Europe, containing a core with upscale shopping surrounded by environs of more modest means and services. In some places it looks like it is in desperate need of planning and repairs. But for the most part things appear to work quite well by Greek standards.

Athens – Memorial for the Unknown Soldier

Athens – Hadrian’s Arch – Ericka, Dana and Tristan

No visit to Athens complete without seeing the changing of the guard at the National Memorial of the Unknown Soldier.

Lycabettus Hill

Located northeast of the city center is the hill of Lycabettus, atop which sits the Church of Saint George. About a thirty minute walk from the Monument of the Unknown Soldier you can reach the cable car at Lykavittós and for a modest sum, a ride to the top.

The views are pretty good from this vantage point, so you will want to pick a clear day. It is a very good place for a panoramic photograph of Athens.

Athens – Lycabettus Hill – Church and Observation Patio

Athens – Lycabettus Hill – Church of Saint George – Group Photograph

You can also visit the church and then have a relaxing drink at one of the many bars on this hilltop.

The Acropolis

The Acropolis is a historic site with few equals. Perched atop a hill overlooking the rest of Athens, this great structure must have been magnificent in its day. Entering through the Beulé Gate, you ascend the Propylaea with the Temple of Athena Nike to your right.

Temple of Athena Nike

The temple stands to the right of the entrance, almost as a sentinel to this very religious place. Situated to the right of the Propylaea, it is the most fully iconic temple in the Acropolis. Unfortunately what we see today is a reconstruction of what it must have looked like before the Turks destroyed the temple in 1686.

The Acropolis – From the Propylaea or Gatehouse – Temple of Athena Nike

The Parthenon

Under a constant state of preservation, repairs and reconstruction the Parthenon is well signed and for the most part well protected from the tourists. It is an impressive structure, when placed behind the backdrop of history, being built more than 2500 years ago.

There are a few additional points of interest below the Acropolis, but no less important.

The Acropolis Museum – Area of the Dörpfeld Excavations

The Erechtheion

My favorite is the Erechtheion and the Porch of the Maidens, also know as the Caryatid Porch. It is one of the only, if not few, buildings in the Acropolis that does not have a symmetrical architecture. It is theorized this either had to do with the numerous cults that built the structure, or the uneven ground it was built on, making a classic Greek structure impossible.

The Acropolis – The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens

From the southeast side the asymmetry is easily seen, with the Porch of the Maidens displaying its most iconic feature.

The Erechtheion – Porch of Maidens – Southeast View

The Agora

Not far from the slopes of the Acropolis is the Agora, or the central meeting place for all ancient Athenians. Primarily of religious significance, but also used for business, politics and artisans. The main street was called the Panathenaic Way, which ran through the Agora to the main gate of Athens.

Stoa of Attalos

The Stoa of Attalos was central to the Agora and primarily used as a place to conduct business. Stoae are buildings constructed with a portico, as a defense against the sun and weather. It was reconstructed in the 1950s, using many of the original pieces, especially on the north side of the building, but reinforced in the basement area in order to be properly repurposed the building as a museum. Here is where the trades people, artisans and shop keepers could sell their wares and conduct business.

The portico serves as an outdoor museum, while the upstairs serves that same purpose, but provides that more indoor feeling. Many of the pieces are statues and busts of high ranking individuals in ancient Greek society.

The Stoa of Attalos – Diorama of Buildings, the Agora and Temple

The Stoa of Attalos – Diorama of Buildings

The Temple of Hephaestus

Probably the most well preserved structure on the grounds of the Agora, even parts of the roof are still intact, is the Temple of Hephaestus. Considering its age and that fact that it was never destroyed during a war or plundered for building materials, it stands nimbly on the grounds of the Agora as a testament to Greek architecture.

Walking around the structure one can easily take photographs of its interior and columns.

The Temple of Hephaestus – Columns and Inside Details

The Odeon of Agrippa

Unfortunately not much of the Odeon of Agrippa structure still exists, with the exception of its magnificent columns. Built in relief, the four columns depicted giants and tritons, all of which are heavily damaged. Initially designed and built as a hall to hold performances in, its structure was not designed like other buildings to endure the ages. It fell into ruin fairly quickly and was rebuilt at some point in the second century and repurposed later as a lecture hall, only to be destroyed by a Herulian raid in 267 CE.

Statues at the entrance to the Odeon and Agrippa

Restaurants

As with any large European city restaurants abound in Athens and it offers a wide range of cuisines and options for anyone’s appetite. With some proper planning and reservations you should have no problem enjoying Greek dining during your vacation. Failure to do so will in most cases result in long wait times and exploring other options.

The Arcadia

We ate lunch at the Arcadia and enjoyed a very nice meal after a morning of exploring Athens.

The Arcadia Restaurant – Gabi, Dana and Erick

The Arcadia Restaurant – Patti, Tristan and Ericka

Maiandros

Reservations are a must for this restaurant. The Maiandros Restaurant gets high marks for excellent traditional Greek cuisine and price. If you want to take advantage of its fine cooking and still have money left in your pocket, look no further than this restaurant. I would suggest ordering the Stifado, if you are meat lover (which I am not, but how could I resist), you will not be disappointed.

PalioTetradio

Perched atop a long staircase on the slopes of the Acropolis sits the Palio Tetradio. This little alley and staircase is packed with restaurants and is more of a tourist attraction and known for its ambiance, than its food and service.

The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Vegetable Soup

The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Pork Souvlaki

View From Out Table – The Palio Tetradio Restaurant

However, they do have live music and since several of the other restaurants have their own musicians, it can feel like dueling musical talents as some points during your dinner.

The Palio Tetradio Restaurant – Musicians

Wines

The following wines we enjoyed while dining in Athens. You don’t necessarily have to purchase a very expensive wine, most house wine is completely drinkable and satisfying.