Tag: travel

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Finding One’s Roots – Pratola Serra – Avellino

The Rolling Hills of Avellino

In October 2021, during our travels in and around Naples, we quickly planned and later took a day trip to the small town of Pratola Serra[1]The town’s name is actually one of great confusion, most likely because of all of the municipal and governmental changes through the years. Its actual name, at least when one looks back into the … Continue reading in the province of Avellino, region of Campania, Italy, the ancestral home of my wife’s paternal family. While there, we had a delightful discussion, through our guide and interpreter, with perhaps a very distant family member of this family, though it is impossible to know for sure. She was cafe and store owner with the same surname of De Cicco.

Before she returned, we had a midday coffee at her cafe and discussed what we wanted to actually ask her, when and if she returned. We thought most of the questions should center around the small family tree we had brought with us and where we might be able to find lost family members, including where any might be in local cemeteries. In the meantime, we left the cafe temporarily to walk the streets of this small town and locate what we thought might be the old address of my wife’s paternal grandfather. After taking numerous photographs of the town’s main street and some of its more interesting buildings.

House Number 63 – SS 371, Pratola Serra – Oct 2021

The most pressing problem was the street, now called Strada Statale 371 (S.S. 371), and is no longer named via Nazionale (or for that matter never was called via Nazionale, it could be the wrong street) as it was in the Civil Records for this town back in the early twentieth century. As though that weren’t enough, we couldn’t be certain that even if we were on the correct street, and I thought we were, the numbers of the buildings were most probably wrong and could not be trusted. However, we took a photograph of the suspected building number 63 on S.S. 371, which appeared to be abandoned nonetheless, returning to the cafe after a short while in a light rain.

The Interview

The interview was done entirely in Italian and involved, for the most part, our guide and interpreter Frederica, from MindTheNap, and the Cafe Centrale’s owner Antonia De Cicco, with occasional statements and questions posed by our driver Fabio and my wife Patricia. No attempt has been made to separate voices of the different individuals speaking in the video. Moreover, the recording of each was taken by a phone at some distance, so the quality is not great and the volume may have to be adjusted to hear and understand what is being said. Additionally, in both cases, the recordings were started after the conversation had already begun. Lastly, the times on the left are approximate and may be off by quite a bit, depending on how the software that was used to analyze this recorded it. It was later re-edited by our guide with no changes to the time marks.

Interview Transcription And Translation

What follows is a transcription by our guide of the conversation as recorded, along with a fair translation into English, which isn’t perfect but good enough to understand what the conversation was about.

Transcript of PratolaSerra_DeCiccoInterview_Part1_Okt2021

    • [00:00:00] E sono morti qui a Pratola. I figli invece sono andati in America. E questo corrente è il nonno della signora,

      • And they died here in Pratola. Instead, the children went to America. And this current is the grandfather of the lady,

    • [00:00:08] Poi si è trasferito insomma.

      • Then he moved in short.

    • [00:00:10] Il Nonno della Maria Beatrice.

      • The grandfather of Maria Beatrice.

    • [00:00:12] No della Signora qua, questo è il nonno.

      • Not the Lady here, this is the grandfather.

    • [00:00:13] Il nonno, si.

      • The grandmother, yes.

    • [00:00:14] Benvenuto was your grandfather right? Yes, he was born here.

    • [00:00:19] Forse bisognava andare in Comune.

      • Perhaps it is necessary to go to the town hall.

    • [00:00:21] Ma non li hanno aiutati tanto, c’era il Signor Paolo

      • But they didn’t help them much, there was Mr. Paul

    • [00:00:23] Quella Paolo è un poco…Prima c’era un’altra signora che aiutava molto. Adesso no. Eh..Poi c’è un’altra folta…Molto i De Cicco sono in una frazione di Pratola Serra che si chiama Saudelle, la sono quasi tutti De Cicco o Di Cicco.

      • That Paul knows a little … Before that, there was another lady who helped a lot. Not now. Eh … Then there is another thick … A lot of the De Cicco are in a fraction of Pratola Serra which is called Saudelle, almost all are De Cicco or Di Cicco.

    • [00:00:47] Okay.

    • [00:00:47] Poi molti di questi De Cicco si sono spostati verso Monte aperto che prima era collegata con noi. Là c’è un’altra folta comunità di De Cicco diciamo.

      • Then many of these De Cicco moved to Monte Aperto which was previously connected with us. There is another large community of De Cicco, let’s say.

    • [00:01:02] Di questi nomi. Allora questo Antonio Di Cicco deceduto a Napoli nel 1859.

      • Of these names. Then this Antonio Di Cicco who died in Naples in 1859.

    • [00:01:10] Si sono sposati nell’82 quindi stiamo parlando comunque di quasi due secoli fa.

      • They got married in 1982 so we are talking about almost two centuries ago anyway.

    • [00:01:13] E quindi, ahhhhhh

      • And so, ahhhhhh

    • [00:01:16] Infatti quello è il problema, purtroppo ovviamente siamo molto indietro nel tempo.

      • In fact that is the problem, unfortunately we are obviously far behind in time.

    • [00:01:19] E Si, pensi che io sono nata nel 1959 quindi sono nata un secolo dopo.

      • And yes, when you think I was born in 1959, so I was born a century later.

    • [00:01:26] Non ma infatti stavo dicendo loro stavo dicendo loro che non avendo i parenti di questi quì che sono scesi che forse sono ancora a Pratola.

      • No, but in fact I was telling them, I was telling them that not having the relatives of these here, who have come down that maybe they are still in Pratola.

    • [00:01:32] Forse forse se Paolo aiutava, tra parentesi, uno poteva risalire ai parenti di Antonio Di Cicco e Maria Beatrice di Fabrizio, Di Fabrizio e quindi vedere quali erano i parenti e quindi risalire alla…

      • Perhaps, perhaps if Paul can help, by the way, one could go back to the relatives of Antonio Di Cicco and Maria Beatrice di Fabrizio, Di Fabrizio and then see which were the relatives and then go back to …

    • [00:01:53] Si perchè siccome loro sono tutti e tre andati in America il loro ramo della famiglia si è fermato a Pratola, non ha continuato. Però ora secondo me questo può aver continuato.

      • Yes, because since all three of them went to America, their branch of the family stopped in Pratola, it didn’t continue. But now, in my opinion, this may have continued.

    • [00:02:00] Sicuramente, sì. Per quello che mi ricordo io di questi Aniello, Fiore e Benvenuto di questi io non ho un ricordo ma…di questi nomi no. Antonio De Cicco ce ne sono ancora adesso svariati a Pratola, Di Cicco, De Cicco. Però secondo me le origini partono da Saudelle perché il ceppo là è nato diciamo che di questi..di questa si.

      • Surely. From what I remember, I don’t have a memory of these Aniello, Fiore and Benvenuto, but, I don’t remember these names. Antonio De Cicco there are still several in Pratola, Di Cicco, De Cicco. But in my opinion the origins start from Saudelle because the stock was born there let’s say that of these… of this one [family].

    • [00:02:31] Ok, perfetto, grazie mille.

      • Ok, perfect, thanks a lot.

Transcript of PratolaSerra_DeCiccoInterview_Part2_Okt2021

 

    • [00:00:00] Di passaggio

      • Passing

    • [00:00:01] Diciamo. Però i De Cicco venivano tutti da queste zone queste frazioni di Pratola via Saudelle oppure Serra di Pratola, ok un’altra cosa quindi, quindi poi dopo si è formato Pratola Serra…perché vedendo quando è nato 1859.

      • Let’s say. But the De Cicco family all came from these areas, these hamlets of Pratola via Saudelle or Serra di Pratola. Okay, one more thing then, then later Pratola Serra was formed… because seeing when he was born 1859.

    • [00:00:18] Potrebbe essere. E un’altra cosa signora, perché loro hanno recuperato il certificato di nascita del Nonno e dice che è nato a via Nazionale…via Nazionale é San Michele di Pratola e un’altra frazione di Pratola.

      • Could be. And another thing madam, because they have recovered the birth certificate of their grandfather and says that he was born in via Nazionale … via Nazionale is San Michele di Pratola, another hamlet of Pratola.

    • [00:00:32] C’è proprio via Nazionale. La strada che é via Nazionale. Okay, Via Nazionale sarebbe San Michele di Pratola Serra quindi la parte di là, la parte alta di…Perché Pratola Serra ha tre frazioni, Serra di Pratola che era il Comune originale, poi c’è San Michele di Pratola da noi comunemente detto masserie perché erano tutte masserie che sarebbe questa Zona qua.

      • There is just via Nazionale [she points to a street on the map]. The street that is via Nazionale. Okay, Via Nazionale would be San Michele di Pratola Serra so the part beyond, the upper part of… Because Pratola Serra has three hamlets: Serra di Pratola which was the original municipality, then there is San Michele di Pratola commonly used by us said farmers, because they were all farms that this area would be here.

    • [00:00:58] Se ho ben capito bene questa San Michele di Pratola è la strada che sale di fronte alla Fiat giusto?

      • If I understand correctly this San Michele di Pratola is the road that goes up in front of the Fiat [meaning the Fiat manufactorer in Pratola], right?

    • [00:01:03] No quella va a Serra di Pratola.

      • No that goes to Serra di Pratola.

    • [00:01:05] No quella è Serra di Pratola.

      • No that’s Serra di Pratola.

    • [00:01:06] Là sopra dove c’è il Castello che era il vecchio comune originale. San Michele di Pratola si sale di qua. Okay si sale di qua. Invece Via Saudelle. Salendo di qua dove c’è il c’è il plesso scolastico qui si va in campagna…dove c’è il cimitero dall’altro lato.

      • Up there, where there is the Castle [this must be the ruins of Casa dell’Orco], was the original old town. San Michele di Pratola, you go up from here. Okay go up here. Instead Via Saudelle. Going up from here, where there is the school complex, here you go to the countryside… where there is the cemetery on the other side.

    • [00:01:24] Okay però siccome lei ha detto via Nazionale allora è San Michele di Pratola

      • Okay but since you said via Nazionale, then it is San Michele di Pratola.

    • [00:01:30] Okay andiamo a controllare lì perfetto, grazie mille signora, Lì c’è un altro bar a San Michele…voi salite sopra…Allora andate al cimitero non il cimitero questo.

      • Okay, let’s check, there perfect [points to map on phone], thank you very much lady, there is another bar in San Michele… you go up… then go to this cemetery, not this cemetery.

    • [00:01:40] Quell’altro vecchio.

      • That other old one.

    • [00:01:41] Voi forse se volevate vedere qualcosa dovevate andare al cimitero quello vecchio.

      • Maybe if you wanted to see something, you have to go to the old cemetery.

    • [00:01:45] Ma ci hanno detto che non c’era niente là. No perché questo nuovo diciamo tra parentesi è stato aperto nel periodo del terremoto intorno agli anni ottanta diciamo quindi sicuramente i vecchi non c’erano qua perché il cimitero era quello.

      • But they told us there was nothing there. No, because this new one, let’s say in brackets, was opened in the period of the earthquake around the eighties, let’s say so surely the old ones weren’t here because that was the cemetery.

    • [00:02:00] Quello là vecchio sopra.

      • The old one over there.

    • [00:02:01] Salendo per il cimitero vecchio. Voi l’avete visto. Allora andate al cimitero vecchio dopo cento metri c’è un bivio. Sono le due varianti, voi andate dritto sopra e arrivata a San Michele di Pratola che in realtà è una strada lunga arrivate nella sommità dove c’è la chiesa c’è un bar là magari trovare qualcuno che vi vuole dare una mano.

      • Going up to the old cemetery. You have seen it. Then go to the old cemetery after a hundred meters there is a crossroads. There are two choices, you want to go straight up and then will arrive in San Michele di Pratola, which is actually a long road.

    • [00:02:25] Gentile come lei insomma.

      • In short, as kind as you are.

    • [00:02:27] Grazie signora. Grazie mille.

      • Thank you Madam. A thousand thanks.

The Municipal Building

Municipal Building – Pratola Serra – Oct 2021

After our nice conversation at the bar we visited the local Municipal Building, where the public records are held. We had to hurry, because it was getting late and nearing lunchtime, and we all know what that means in Italy. There, we checked in with the local hall monitor and waited in line, since there was already someone in the office and there were Covid restrictions in place.

Municipal Building – Pratola Serra – Receptionist

Once inside, it took our guide some time to convince the gentleman that was to help us, that we had come a long way and only needed a bit of information. At first, he was very resistant and complained mildly that he had to close in twenty minutes and was not sure he could help us in that time. However, after some cajoling and seeing that family tree that we had given our guide, his interest was piqued.

Frederica and Paolo (Paul) – Municipal Building – Pratola Serra – Oct 2021

Federica, our guide, slowly got him to open up on whether he could help us at all. He admitted that his local historic knowledge was not that great and that they had been sending many of the old historical civil documents to the main Municipal Building in Avellino.

Luckily, after perusing the family tree and seeing Benvenuto De Cicco’s name and his birth date, he went into the back room and emerged very quickly with a large ledger. He opened it and within a matter of seconds had Benvenuto’s birth record in front of us. Though I had already found this in the electronic archives that Italy has, I nonetheless took a photograph, if only to show him he hadn’t wasted his time with us.

Benvenuto De Cicco – Birth Record – Municipal Building – Pratola Serra – Oct 2021

It appeared after taking our photograph we had exhausted our time and it was also time for his lunch break.

The Old Cemetery

De Ciccos — St Michele Cemetery – PratolaSerra, Avelino – Oct 2021

The old cemetery is located on the outskirts of Pratola Serra on via Provinciale 61, or SP 61, in the direction of San Michele di Pratola. When we arrived, it happened to be open and though it was very cold with the threat of rain, we parked and went inside quickly to take as many photographs as we could. There was no doubt, there were a lot of De Ciccos and Fabrizios interred there, but after a thorough search no direct relations.

Saint Michele Di Pratola Cimitero – PratolaSerra, Avelino – Oct 2021

Restaurants

Valleverde Ristorante

Inside Restaurant Valleverde, Atripalda Avellino – Oct 2021

To complete our trip, our guide Frederica suggested lunch at a local restaurant on the way back to Naples. Located on Via Pianodardine, in Atripalda Avellino, the Valleverde Ristorante was a welcome sight after a day of exploring and investigations. We had a simple lunch that included water, wine and a pasta dish. And, as per usual with most restaurants in Italy, the food was delicious, well prepared and very reasonably priced. We had a great time and discussed what we thought we learned from the trip and what might be our next steps in our search for my wife’s living relatives, distant or otherwise. Again, Frederica and Fabio, at MindTheNap, did an excellent job and if you are ever in the Naples area and looking for a local guide, look them up, they are exceptional. Until next time, Ciao..!

References

References
↑1 The town’s name is actually one of great confusion, most likely because of all of the municipal and governmental changes through the years. Its actual name, at least when one looks back into the 19th and 20th centuries, is Pratola di Serra. This makes perfect sense, since there is a commune called Serra not far away. It is most likely that at one time it was just called Pratola and belonged to this commune and not Avellino, a change made later by governmental bodies.
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Naples, Italy – National Archaeological Museum and More

National Archaeological Museum of Naples

If you are an archaeological nut and ever have enough time to spend in Naples, you must visit the National Archaeological Museum. It houses an impressive collection from ancient Naples, from its ancient Greek roots through its Roman and Sicilian Empire phases, to the present. It also has a fabulous collection of artifacts from Pompeii and the Roman Period. It is found on the interesection of Piazza Cavour and Via Enrico Pessina. At the time of this writing, it can no longer be gotten to by the Museum Metro Stop, which has been closed for some time, but rather from the Piazza Cavour Metro Stop and then a short walk along that street.

National Archaeological Museum – Main Entrance

The Ground or First Floor – Main Gallery

The main gallery on the ground floor has a unique and amazing collection of statues, mostly from the Roman Period, but there are also more ancient sculptures as well. It features in the back of the hall the Farnese Bull from Roman times.

There are also a few other examples from the Farnese Collection, including Hercules and others. This section is definitely worth a quiet, long walk through with plenty of reading and afterthought. Examination of any one of these magnificent works reveal detail that someone in today’s day and age would think otherwise superfluous, and yet it would not be the work it is today without that fine attention to detail.

Leaving the main gallery and proceeding upstairs you pass the two dominant representations of Ocean or Oceanus, the god the ultimate river – the oceans. It is still not none precisely the etymology of this word and therefore it may not have any antecendents. However, one look at these two figures and you can tell that whomever this god represented, he was a very serious fellow, he had to be the dominate force for all water.

The First Floor – The Mosaic Gallery

Here one can find all sorts of ancient mosaics, however most are from Pompeii. Made of paste and ceramic all are equisitely done in the form of a story to tell the onlooker.

The Third Floor – The Glass Gallery

Has a small, succinct, but very important collection of ancient glass made during the Pompeiien and Roman periods. Some have handwork and detail that cannot be rivaled today.

The Gallery of Pompeiien Erotica

No visit would be complete without a visit to the erotic gallery, where all manner of erotica are on display from the dead city of Pompeii. The Quakers and the Puritans would have had a field day in this city at its peak. Not only was prostitution flaunted as an everday fact in everyone’s face, but the public had personal art created for display and enjoyment in their own houses. Without much else to say the following is shown as a slideshow, feel free to opt-out if you are not up to the intellectual and spiritual challenge.

The Basement Floor – The Maritime Archaeological Gallery

All things maritime are located in the basement floor. A wide collection of maritime artifacts and archaeological specific display can be found in this section. There are also displays from the escavations of Pompeii having to do with the city itself, including is ancient public plumbing.

Restaurants

Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria

A short fifteen minute walk away from the museum, down the Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli, Via San Sebastiano and Via Santa Chiara (all the same street mind you), you will find Ristorante Demeter Ristotrattoria. Another exceptional place with homemade creations to tempt most palettes. We entered this restaurant just before it started raining and were not disappointed, a fine place to visit with nice staff that is definitely NOT a tourist trap.

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Naples, Italy – La Neapolis Sotterrate

In the back of Piazza San Gaetano, alongside the tower, you will find the entry point to a very interesting treat, and a very historically important place for understanding Naples as a city, especially its age. Here you will find the La Neapolis Sotterrate, or the ancient underground marketplace.

La Neapolis Sotterrata – Internal Palazzo with well

The Ancient Neapolis was founded back in the fifth century BCE by the Greeks. Many of the artifacts and architecture of this place date back to this time. The market, or Macellum, was a two story structure that ran along underneath the current structure of the convent which now stands over top of it. Many of the streets in this area start with Vico and not Via, indicating the ancient Greek origins (all streets that start with this have a corresponding ancient road structure beneath them).

The entry fee is minimal and they have guided tours available in English. We found the tour very informative and important in trying to appreciate the age of city of Naples. Here is a slide show with what you will see if you have time to consider this historical adventure.

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Salerno, Italy – Tyrrhenian Jewel

Waterfront – Salerno, Italy

Needing to get out of Naples, if only for a day, we took the train south to Salerno in discovery of yet another ancient city along the Italian Mediterranean Sea. A short train ride of only a half an hour puts you there, three blocks in from from its coastal port and jetties that border the bright blue Tyrrhenian Sea.

We spent a leisurely Monday walking the streets of this nicely kept secret. It is definitely not a tourist destination and you will see few if any here, those preferring Capri, Almalfi Coast and other must-see places on someone else’s list.

Benedictine Aqueducts

The city has one of the most impressive examples of the architecture of the Ogival Arch, which in the ninth century was innovative and rare. It was so uncommon, that superstition around the arches and their use built up over the years, to the point where the town’s people were convinced it was the work of the devil, or at the very least, demons from hell. In any case, the aqueducts were built by and supplied water to the local Benedictine Monastery, and later to a convent in Piantanova.

The Basilica of Salerno is not far from the aqueducts and the Benedictine Monastery. Its most striking feature is the tower, which was built in the Arab-Norman style. The palazzo inside contains a small fountain and its archways are reminiscent of the Florentine style.

A quintessential thing to do, is to walk along Salerno’s Lungomare Trieste and enjoy the beautiful weather and seaside. This exceptional boardwalk continues straight for about five miles and has numerous places to sit and relax among the beautiful palm trees that were planted there long ago.

Restaurants

Taverna Santa Maria De Domno

Perhaps one of the best places I have ever eaten. The Pasta Genovese here is absolutely to die for, I have found none better in Naples and the surrounding area, and I have tried many. The wine list is also very good and you will have no problem selecting a delicious local varietal that grows on the slopes of Vesuvius for your gastronomic pleasure.

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Naples, Italy – For The Love Of Food

The streets of Naples are full of food. There are not only the typical butchers, bakers and even soap makers, but also cafes, ristorantes and all sorts of other odd types of shops (to Americans anyways) selling what I would call contemporary traditional or ancient traditional goods. For example, there is a coffee shop on one street in the historic center that brews coffee using the old, slow drip process – the typical way before World War II (in fact you cannot buy espresso there).

If you are not particular to just meat or seafood, you can also go to the local Tripperia where you may purchase animal organs. In the Market District there are several places to choose from and they sell everything from Tripe, to Stomach and Intestines, to Brains and other blood organs. The Tripe and Stomach display at Fiorenzano’s (like others) was especially interesting, since it had dripping water in the case while the butcher was slicing away at the stomachs and other organs people were ordering.

Fiorenzano’s also has a Friggitoria just down the street, where locals come to purchase quickly fried items that are choosen from the display case. This includes everything from potato fritter like delicacies, to pizza, focaccia and other Neapolitan favorites.

For one day we had a splendid tour of the historic center of Naples with our tour guide Federica. It was a walking tour of the city center that included strategic stops along the way to sample some of Naples’ street food. Some were easier to carry than others and we found ourselves, at least once, stopping to sit at a table to handle some of the more larger entrees we were offered.

In the historic streets of Naples you can walk the streets and find a store with a very common sign stating, “O’Sicchietiell e Muzzarell” in the Neapolitan language. Which is probably not far from the Italian for Ciliegini (shortened version of pomodoro ciliegini), or Cherry Tomatoes and Mozzarella. You may purchase a large or small cup, it comes with a small wooden fork, basilico and extra virgin olive oil and you can just eat them as you walk around.

The famous Sorbillo’s Pizza has another store, which was founded in 1935, where you can purchase the traditional Pizza Fritta. This pizza is actually fried and not baked. It is made almost the same as traditional pizza up to the point – where they closed up all the sides, pinching them closed to ensure none of the ingredients can leak. Then they throw it in a very large frying pan with oil in it. It is served after it has turned a golden brown on brown piece of paper and can be sprinkled with salt or other spices. It is almost like a Calzone, but tastes completely different because of the frying process imparts a different taste to the dough. If you are a pizza lover, it is something you must try at least once.

Another great thing to snack on, either while you walk or to bring home in a bag, are Taralli. At Coppola’s you will find these traditional biscuits along with other great treats. Taralli are made with lard, or fat, and are traditionally spiced with pepper. However, today almost all of the stores add almonds to the mix, in order to impart some extra flavor to this Neapolitan staple. Since they are a bit savory, but usually not salty, the pepper and almond comes through rather nicely.

Sfogliatella, it conjures up thoughts of heavenly gastronomic bliss. We end with this amazing pastry since most people probably are not aware that there are actually two different types. There is the Riccia, which everyone knows and loves with its characteristic million folds of dough (almost like Phyllo dough) which is hard and rather crunchy, with a center of Ricotta Cheese filling. Then there is the Frolla, which is almost the same, except it does not have all the folds in its dough, is softer and has more of a shiny appearance. Both are delicious and it usually comes down to personal preference on which one you like better.

However, we must pause yet again, for most people are probably not aware that the original Sfogliatella did not have a Ricotta Cheese filling, but rather a blander and much easier to eat filling made of semolina dough and hazelnuts and/or almonds. At Sfolgliate you can find this traditional Sfogliatella made the way it was intended. It is, at this time, the only store in all of Naples that adheres to the old tradition. We tried the Riccia and must say, it was delicious!

That’s it for our food tour of historic Naples, hope you enjoyed it and learned something about the delicious food they have to offer but have not exported. I know, sad for us all, but definitely worth a try if you visit.

 

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Naples, Italy – No Bodies Here

Outside the walls of Naples are the catacombs, the ancient burial grounds for the old Neapolis population. Neapolis is the ancient greek name for the city, which eventually morphed into Napoli, or Naples.

There are four known catacombs outside the city, two can be visited, the Catacombs of San Gennaro and the Catacombs of San Gaudioso. However, once you enter you quickly discover, that with some minor exceptions, there are no bodies here. In the former case they were exhumed by the French back in the 1700s and  repatriated, in the latter they were moved to one of the other catacombs that currently cannot be visited.

Catacombs of San Gennaro

About a mile from the old historic district off the Corso Amedeo di Savoia are the Catacombs of San Gennaro.  The largest and least morbid of the two, this catacomb has an expansive underground and very interesting history.  Since a guided tour is the only option possible, you learn all the details of the historical past of this catacomb, and some of the more perculiar fact (if you are willing to ask, e.g. where did all the bodies go – back to France).  Since all catacombs, more or less look the same, here is a slide show.

Catacombs of San Gaudioso

Along the same road, about a fifteen minute walk back toward the city center, are the catacombs of San Gaudioso. These are underneath the Basilica di Santa Maria della Sanità and its entrance is actually in the Basilica. This tour actually contains skeletons, bones and sarcophagi buried in the walls, plastered over with their skulls sticking out and broken off (see show for examples).

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Naples, Italy – The Egg And Bourbon Tunnels

Some Sights In San Ferdinando To See

After a thorough introduction to Naples, we decided it was time to see some things we had shoved to one side until we got time.

Castle dell’Ovo

Castel dell’Ovo, also known as The Egg or the Egg Castle is situated in the Bay of Naples.  It used to be a small island, but was attached some time ago to make it more accessible.  Entrance is free, even though you do have to schedule your attendance online. However, aside from the views, there truly is not much to see.  It appears to have been reused for administration and other city or port related uses.

The Bourbon Tunnels

There are tunnels, aqueducts and other underground features all throughout Naples. None has probably had more contemporary use than the Bourbon Tunnels, which were converted and used during World War II as bomb shelters and storage. There are two entrances to this underground museum, for scheduling reason we had to enter Vico del Grottone, the same street that our restaurant below for lunch was on, so very convenient.

The following of our tour is provided uncaptioned, there is more information in the above internet link.

Restaurants

Trattoria da Ettore

This trattoria, as many others outside of the touristy areas, is an excellent little mom and pop restaurant. It has only six tables and when they are full for lunch, you are turned away (the same is true for dinner and probably for most restaurants in Italy, when they are full, they are full, so get there early). It is located on Vico del Grottone and it is figuratively speaking a hole in the wall.

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Naples, Italy – Hiking Vesuvius

It is possible to hike to the summit of Mount Vesuvius. For a modest fee you can put on your best walking of hiking shoes and climb to the summit from within a few hundred meters in elevation. On a clear day, it is totally worth it, not only for the views of Naples but also for that curious look at what might be going on inside the crater. Our guide Federica, from MindTheNap Tours, along with Pasquale our driver took us there for the day. She has excellent knowledge of the volcano, its history and all its eruptions, as well as other off beat information regarding the consecration of the volcano by the church.

The Climb

The ascent is not very rigorous, there are plenty of old people walking up and they do hand out walking sticks, if you are so inclined. Now, on to the slide show for which I have not captioned anything, since most should be self explanatory.

A few short videos while we were on the way up and at the summit. The audio is probably terrible, it was very windy and cold that day.

The trip up, around the crater wall and back down took us a little over an hour. But it can be completed faster, we just happened  to take our time. The drive there on the other hand depends on traffic, which as you can imagine can be problematic in Naples.

Wineries

At the foot of Mount Vesuvius are many wineries, which grew certain types of varietals, aglianico, caprettone and piedrosso, that work well with the volcanic soils.

Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery Russo Family

After our ascent up the mountain we spent a few hours in the afternoon having a tour, wine tasting and lunch at the Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery of the Russo Family. We tasted the following before and during our lunch.

– Rosè Sparkling Wine (100% aglianico grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOP (100% caprettone grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Rosato DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Riserva (80% piedirosso e 20% aglianico grapes)
– Passito Bianco IGT (50% caprettone, 50% falanghina grapes)
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Naples, Italy – A Better Feel

Naples and Vesuvius from Sant Elmo

After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question where exactly you are at any given time. But one thing is for sure, you will find some uniqueness between them all. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place. I for one think it’s a great city and the Neapolitans are fantastic people.

After a few days traveling through the city we are beginning to get a better feel for this vibrant town. Divided into quarters or sections, but not along any obvious lines, there is reason to question at any given time where exactly your are, but one thing is for sure you will find some uniqueness. This is why its so important on spending some time in a large city such as Naples, which has over two million residents. Otherwise, there is no real way to get the actual vibe or quidditas of a place.

The real hard core vibe of Naples is the juxtaposition of the Centro Storico, or the historic center – with its throngs of tourists, against the backdrop and grittiness of The Spanish Quarter, the pandemonium of San Frenando, Porto and Mercato; and the quiet calm of Vomero and Chiaia. If you are looking for a city with stark contrasts, Naples is the city for you.

Naples – The Spanish Quarter

The Spanish Quarter

The Spanish Quarter obtained its name from the garrison of Spanish that were housed here and given the job to keep order throughout the city. It is entirely made up of narrow streets, passages, stairs and back alleyways that knit this complex community together. Directly alongside the Historic Center on one side and the hill of Vomero, it is quite self contained and apparently, from the looks of things, not very open to change, since from the looks of things nothing apparently has since they arrived.

With dirt and filth comes disease. As the photograph attests to a dramatic outbreak of cholera that swept through this part of the city in the 1800s, leaving behind devastation and death. Even today it is still actively adorned with flowers and other bits of memorabilia for protection, partly due to faith and partly due to superstition. Though all educated people know, it is easily combated with cleanliness and hygiene.

Centro Storico

The old part of the city has the most historical artifacts, churches and other points of interest. It is infested with tourists though, so planning is key. It is best to keep an eye on the number of cruise ships at dock (at any time there can be up to five very large ships docked) and then take your chances that you will have a minimal crowd.

Naples – Statue del Dio Nilo – San Lorenzo

As can be imagined there are a myriad of shops, cafes and restaurants in this area, which is comprised of the San Lorenzo Quarter. It is world famous for its Christmas Alley of Armeno, which is officially known as via San Gregorio Armeno.

Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley

Deep in the heart of the historic center is a street that is known as Christmas Alley. It does not pay to explain, except through pictures.

Vomero

Located on the hill adjacent to Chiaia and the Spanish Quarter is Vomero. Easily reached by taking one of the Funicular Trains from one of three places, Funicular Park in Chiaia, Augusteo in San Ferdinando or Montesanto in the Spanish Quarter. For a reasonable 1.10€ you can ascend to Vomero to visit the sights that it has to offer and enjoy its fine restaurants.

Castle Sant Elmo

In Vomero the Castle of Sant Elmo stands ever watchful over Naples. Known initially as Belforte, it was built sometime in the thirteenth century.

The castle is a sprawling edifice atop the hill commanding a view of all of Naples, including the hills behind it and the entire Gulf of Naples. Fitted previously with large guns, it must have been a formidable deterrent at one time. Visitors can walk the entirety of its parapets with all of its amazing views of the city, the gulf and surrounding islands.

Cloister di San Martino

Just below the Castle of Sant Elmo sits the monastery and cloister of San Martino. Converted into a museum, it too commands a view of the Gulf of Naples.

The museum has a selection of old royal carriages and artifacts from the late Renaissance. From old frescoes, paintings and church memorabilia it houses many religious antiquities from famous Napoletano church leaders. Then there are the creches of Christ’s birth, which are extremely detailed and draw your attention to every little thing that each one of the small characters is modeled to portray.

Restaurants

Gino e Toto Sorbillo Pizzeria

One of the place to go apparently in Naples is Gino e Toto Sorbillo’s Pizzeria. Located on via dei Tribunali it gathers a crowd early, so getting there a half an hour or so ahead of time would reduce your wait. During normal times it may even be wiser to queue up earlier. We happen to go during a day when only one cruise ship arrived and got there twenty minutes early and we were about fourth in line. The place is rather large, but by the time we were finished people were waiting outside for some time.

The pizza is simple but amazing. Having never eaten here before, we ordered the recommended Pizza Margherita. With a half bottle of their own red wine and some water we were quite full and happy when we left.

Armando Scartuchio

Armando Scartuchio is a chain of cafes with a rich history and several stores sprinkled throughout the city and a must place to stop. Though we only stopped at one, it must hold mostly true that any pastries made by this company taste more a less the same, no matter where you eat them. We found ours just outside the Spanish Quarter in Montecalvario.

While staying in Naples it is an absolute necessity to stop each day around eleven o’clock or so to have coffee and a bite to eat. This is an excellent place to recharge your morning battery. Still early enough to order two Cappuccino and some very good baked goods, an excuse to drink, eat and further discuss the plans of the day. We ordered a few very interest things we thought we just had to taste.

TrattoriaMalinconico

Situated well out of the way is Trattoria Malinconico. A place not often, if ever, visited by tourists, so they were quite interested and curious when we stopped for lunch.

For starters, this Trattoria is in Vomero, which is on top of the hill. Therefore you must either take one of the three funiculars to get there or climb a very large and then still walk a kilometer or so before reaching it. Even then, it is kind of hidden around the corner from the well established market street on the end of a dead end street in a sort of strip mall.

In any case, the food is excellent and home cooked. Our interest was is getting the most authentic tasting Beef Genovese that we could find and our searches ended us up at this small but excellent establishment. What we found on the menu was actually that, but it was called Pasta Genovese with Meat, also known as Genovese Completa. It didn’t matter, for 8€ we ordered it with a mezzo litro of red wine and ate our hearts out.

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Chiaia Naples, Italy – True Grit

Chiaia, Naples – The Bay of Naples – 10th of October, 2021

Naples is without a doubt a very large and a very old city. Born sometime in the 10th century BCE it was established officially by the Greeks. Later it became its own Kingdom and later one of the two Kingdoms of Sicily. There is no doubt that the language is very different from Italian. When a native Neapolitan speaks, it is impossible to find any similarities with the language of the country that they currently belong. In fact, upon exiting our taxi on arrival to our hotel, I actually brought this up with the driver, who quickly turned to me and said, “Sir, we do not speak Italian, but rather Napoletano.”

It is without a doubt, that after a few days of arriving in Naples, I can say that this city has true grit. Probably nowhere else in Italy, or in the world for that matter, can one find such excellent food among so much chaos. Having lived in Turin and having spent much time in Rome and other parts of Italy, this town exemplifies the Neapolitan spirit. A crazy mixture of life, business, personal matters and conversation, and eating, always eating. It appears their entire life and lifestyle is dedicated to consuming delicious food. Having sampled enough of it I can say it is truly unique and delicious.

First Impressions

Chiaia, and all of Naples for that matter, is a complex mixture of no rules, hidden rules, chaos and a profound charm that is impossible to put your finger on, but unmistakably Neapolitan through and through.

It is without a doubt that many from the United States, probably depending upon from where they are from, would be off put by some of the conditions. However, one must always keep in mind it is never easy trying to combine old and new, whether they be traditions, living style or just overall conditions.

The city for the most part could be cleaner, but I have found it cleaner than I had thought it was going to be. And having heard about the issues they are having with garbage removal, it goes without saying, it is definitely a problem in search of a real solution. With the exception of the Spanish Quarter and some other high traffic areas, where tourists frequent, I have found that the Neapolitans, for the most part, try to keep things orderly and clean.

The city could also be better organized, but until the forces that control much of what the people here are affected by most have been tamed and come to agreement, that will probably not happen. I often wonder how the native Neapolitan can stand to have some of the building projects around them to be delayed for more than a decade; where the companies have taken advantage of the cordons that they use to store other materials aside from those for the actual project. And yet just down the road, a Restorer will be working on a massive archaeological project with a Dremel tool, being careful at all costs not to remove too much of the dirt from the huge building they are working on and almost totally unnoticed. They appear to be both appreciated and stymied by their own history.

Restaurants

La Riviera Di Parthenope

As part of our culinary excursion of Naples and Chiaia, we made reservations and ate La Riviera di Parthenope on our first evening. It was a delightful restaurant and our waiter, and perhaps owner (since he made several references that his wife was the cook), spoke English very well, so nothing was lost in translation on our behalf.

We had a braised octopus appetizer over mashed potatoes, and for my main dish, I ordered the smoked red tuna. These were paired with an excellent white wine from the region. The service was excellent and I would go back any time, but frankly, there are just too many other good places to try!

Officine Bistrot

A small and modern restaurant that serves absolutely amazing food. The cook starts with a croquette served with a spiced mayonnaise sauce that sets the tone. Then we had an appetizer of fried squash flowers, a potato croquette and a portion of eggplant parmigiana which was to die for. My main meal was wild boar in a bread sauce reduction and served with salad greens dressed in an infused olive oil which were both just amazing. As for the dessert, what can a say, they were both delicious. The food alone is worth a visit.

I would normally take points away for this, but the food was just so good I cannot do it. The red wine by the glass was showing its age (too long opened and sitting in the bottle). I also ordered a Sambuca which had almost turned to alcohol sitting on the shelf, it had lost all hint of anise. I am chalking both of these up to the affects of the pandemic and not being able to move the products, but that’s a guess. For a memorable experience I would suggest ordering a bottle of wine just to be sure and perhaps stick with Grappa.