There are a few places in Prague that still have the medieval charm. One is a museum, the other is a restaurant. But if one is paying attention as they walk around, they will find little medieval curiosities hidden away. It only requires a bit of exploring to find them.
The Old Town Square
The most remarkable thing about the Old Town Square is its small size. It is surprising that such are large medieval city would have such a small square.
Prague – Old Town Square – Jan Hus climbing monument
It does however have several remarkable points of interest and beautiful building contained or encircling it.
Prague – Old Town Square – The West House – House of the Minute
Prague – Old Town Square – Tyn Church
Prague – Old Town Square – Church
Prague – Old Town Square
Prague – Old Town Square – Painted Building
Prague – Old Town Square – West House
The Astronomy Clock
One of the main attractions in Prague is the Astronomical Clock. Aside from its obvious technical fascinations and color, it of course does not move a lot. That does not prevent many from craning their necks staring at it for more than an hour, hoping in vain for the clock to do something. However, the clock being based on a twenty-four hour daytime standard does move, but ever so slowly.
Prague – Old Town Square – Astronomical Clock Tower
Prague – Old Town Square – Astronomical Clock Tower
The Speculum Alchemiae
This museum offers guided tours through a historical alchemist’s shop, containing all of the accoutrements of the trade.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Tickets For Two
There are flasks, alembics, beakers and glass containers of all shapes and sizes littered throughout the shop.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Outside
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Flasks
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Alembics and other Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Store Front
The tour begins the shop and quickly advances through a door and small hallway to the alchemist’s study.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Hallway Pictures
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Hallway Bottles
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – The Study
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study with door closed
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Bookcase
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Study Desk
After a twenty minute talk on the herbs and other potions of the alchemist’s trade, as well as a short discussion on books, the tour commenced through a secret opening in the bookcase.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
A creepy spiral staircase takes you downstairs into a dungeon like area full of workshops, each for a specific purpose.
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Prague – Alchemy Museum – Secret Tunnels and Rooms
Restaurants
If it was not mentioned before it will be now. If you are interested in any particular restaurants for dinner, make sure you book reservations beforehand. Most of the good ones book up quickly, some times days in advance, so make the call or send the request as soon as possible to get your table.
There are many fine restaurants in Prague and from what I can tell, they have all earned their stars. However, that’s not to say you will go hungry, if you do not make the proper arrangements. There are still numerous restaurants around of all types that might have an empty table, you just may have to do some walking.
There are also street food options, for both lunch and dinner. So, if you are not particular about sitting down, you can consider them as a viable option. As a last resort there are always fast food corporate options, but again, go local if at all possible and enjoy the native cuisine.
Prague – Holiday Market – Rotisserie Pork
The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
The first impression from outside is the establishment looks a bit odd, with a figure of a man outstretched from the basement. Once our interests were peaked, we had to investigate further and finally made reservations for the following day when the remainder of our party could join.
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
I have never been in a more dark or gloomy restaurant as this one, lending it a bit of medieval charm. Lit, more or less, only by candle light, it’s no wonder humanity made it out of the Dark Ages.
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Inside
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Inside
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Menu
Participants should be aware, certain meals do not come with utensils and all of the beers come with a customary bang on the table. Some have been known to break their glasses, which is strangely allowed. The meals are, shall we say, good but very basic – they won’t be earning any Michelin Stars for their cuisine.
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Lentil Soup
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Roasted Chicken
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Baked Fish
Prague – Medieval Tavern – U krále Brabantského – Gulash and Dumplings
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Gabi and Ericka
Prague – The Medieval Tavern – U Krále Brabantského – Patti and Erick
Alforno Focacceria
Also known in Czech as Petrské náměstí, is situated on Petrská, just behind our hotel. We picked another Italian restaurant since they are pretty wide spread throughout the city and the actual Czech cuisine is a bit limited.
Our first few days in Prague introduced us to another city of towers, of which eight have some import. It is also a city severed by a river, the river Vltava, which flows into the river Elbe. This river is also a hub of tourism, having several river boat companies plying its waters.
Prague – Panorama of the city
Prague – Some Of The Sights
One can say that Prague is a very easy city to walk. It is well marked and there are plenty of street signs to indicate along the way where the most important landmarks are to see.
Prague – Municipal House
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets
Prague – Old Town Square
Prague – Old Town Square – Jan Hus climbing monument
Prague – Old Town Square – Church
Prague – Old Town Square – West House
Prague – Old Town Bridge Tower – Monument
Of course, just ambling your way down the city streets works too, which in most cases will lead to some kind of a surprise when you round a corner. Here is a short slide show as we did one of our unguided walks.
Prague – Holiday Market
Prague – City Street
Prague – City Street
Prague – Town Square with Holiday Market
Prague – Main Cable Car Street
Prague – Town Square with Holiday Market – Municipal House
Prague – Municipal House
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets
Prague – City Streets – View of Old Town Tower
Prague – Old Town Square
Prague – Old Town Square – Painted Building
Prague – Church of our Lady before Tyn
Prague – Church of our Lady before Tyn
Prague – Church of our Lady before Tyn – Door Handle
Prague – Old Town Square – Jan Hus climbing monument
Prague – Old Town Square – Info Center ceiling
Prague – Old Town Square – Info Center ceiling
Prague – Old Town Square – West House
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – Street to Charles Bridge
Prague – The old red Prague tram
Prague – Interesting house facade
Prague – Interesting house facade
Prague – Church
Prague – Street in Mala Strana
The Klementinum
Of some interest is the Klementinum, an old medieval Dominican Monastery that was later converted into a Jesuit college.
Prague – The Klementinum
It was here, sometime in 1775, that a Jesuit scholar started recording the first set of unbroken climate measurements in eastern Europe. It also houses an impressive Baroque libraries in the world.
Prague – The Klementinum
Prague – The Klementinum – Courtyard
Prague – The Klementinum
Prague – The Klementinum – Art
The Towers
There are essentially eight towers of import within the city. They include:
The Old Town Bridge Tower
The Lesser Town Bridge Towers
The Old Town Hall Tower
Mirror Maze
Powder Gate Tower
Petrin Lookout Tower
Saint Nicholas Bell Tower
The New Mill Water Tower
The above are all marked on the city map that can be obtained from the city’s InfoPoint center. There are also numerous other lesser towers that can be found when roaming the city, some of which like the above can be ascended.
The Old Town Bridge Tower
From the Old Town in the direction of George’s Bridge one will next come upon the Old Town Bridge Tower. It was completed some time after 1385 and before then end of that century. It has seen a lot of history pass through its portal, wars and coronations alike.
Prague – Old Town Bridge Tower
The Lesser Town Bridge Towers
On the other end of George’s Bridge is the Lesser Town Bridge Towers. Each tower is unique, the one on the left, as viewed from the bridge, is in the Romanesque style and dates from the 12th century. The taller tower is Late Gothic and dates from 1464 and can be ascended.
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
Prague – The Lesser Bridge Tower on the other side of George’s Bridge
The Mirror Maze
The Mirror Maze is not a tower, just a building that houses a fun-house for children and adults that contains mirrors. It is similar to mirror houses found at many state fairs in the United States.
Prague – The Mirror Maze
Powder Gate Tower
Prague – Powder Tower – Tickets For Two
Probably one of the first towers you will go see is the Powder Tower. You can purchase a ticket and view the city from this tower for a modest fee of about 3€.
The Powder Tower is so named since they used to store gun powder in it. It has also historically be the starting point of any coronation ceremonies held by the Bohemian Monarchs who entered the city, the ending point being the Prague Castle on the hill.
The building was first started in 1457 and finished some time later. It was not finished until the early seventeenth century. It stands at an impressive 195 feet, provided a excellent view of the surrounding city to anyone who ascends its claustrophobic spiral staircase.
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate
A slide show to show our ascent and the rest of Prague from the vantage point of the viewing deck at 44 meters.
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate
Prague – Powder Gate – Patti ascending
Prague – Powder Gate – First Level
Prague – Powder Gate – First Level
Prague – Powder Gate – First Level
Prague – Powder Gate – First Level
Prague – Powder Gate – Second Level
Prague – Powder Gate – Second Level
Prague – Powder Gate – Second Level Ceiling
Prague – Powder Gate – Second Level Ceiling
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level and Roof
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level and Roof – Art Work
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level and Roof – Art Work
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Outside
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Views from above
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Views from above
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Prague Castle and Saint Vitus Cathedral
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Sights
Prague – Powder Gate – Top Level – Views from above
Prague – Powder Gate – Patti descending
Petrin Lookout Tower
The lookout tower is on top of Petrin Hill and can be found either by walking up the park paths and stairs, there are multiple ways of reaching it; or by using the Ujezd to Petrin funicular. Though we did not ascend the tower, a pretty fantastic view can be enjoyed by doing so.
Prague – Petrin Lookout Tower
Saint Nicholas Town Bell Tower
Almost a pyramidal tower in look, the tower of Saint Nicholas can be found close to the Prague Castle and is part of Saint Nicholas’ church.
Prague – Saint Nicholas’s Town Bell Tower
The New Mill Water Tower
A six minute walk from our hotel and close to the Stefanik Bridge is the New Mill Water Tower. The tower was built in 1658 to supply water from the Vltava River to the lower portion of Prague.
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower
Prague – The New Mill Water Tower
Saint Peter’s Bell Tower
This is a lesser tower not actually listed in the sightseer’s guides. However, due to its proximity to the hotel, it was easy enough to visit and take a few photographs.
Prague – Saint Peter’s Bell Tower
Prague – Saint Peter’s Bell Tower – Back
Henry’s Tower
Another lesser tower not on Prague’s official sightseeing list, but on some map, is Henry’s Tower. This tower is pretty close to the main train station in Prague and the Jindřišská tram stop, that is often jammed with trams waiting to go down the street of the same name.
Prague – Henry’s Tower
Art Deco Imperial Hotel
The Art Deco Imperial Hotel is a fine hotel situated just outside the old town, which is a mere ten minute walk away. The rooms are spacious, definitely big enough to relax in and the bathrooms, at least in the room that we were given, are all marble with all of the contemporary conveniences.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco
It is also very nice that the Imperial Café is part of the hotel, making breakfast a very simple and convenient affair.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Bronze
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Entrance to Imperial Café
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Stairs
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Elevators
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Stairs
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Main Hall
Restaurants
Of course, it is a bad habit, but I normally only comment on restaurants or cafés that can be recommended. Since Prague is such a tourist destination, one has to be careful choosing a restaurant here, not all of them serve a quality product. In that event, always go natural, preferring a salad over a different product like sausage, etc. In most cases you will not go wrong.
Imperial Café
On our first night in Prague we ate at the Imperial Café, which is part of the Art Deco Imperial hotel. This café is known for its amazing and beautiful tiled walls and ceilings.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Imperial Café
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Patti at the Imperial Café
A highly rated café which has obviously earned its stars. It also comes with baggage or purse stools, so that bags, pocketbooks and other paraphernalia you are carrying, doesn’t have to touch the floor.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Bag Stool provided at the Imperial Café
The service and food were excellent, so we had to try it out. We were not disappointed.
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Onion Soup
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Beef Wellington
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Patti’s Chicken Breast with Ratatouille and Whipped Potatoes
Prague – Hotel Imperial Art Deco – Strawberries with Vanilla Ice Cream and Whipped Cream
La Bottega Linka
A one minute walk from the Art Deco Imperial Hotel is the Italian Restaurant La Bottega Linka. The restaurant offers a combination of Italian, Czech and cosmopolitan dishes, as demanded most likely by tourist. However, the food and service are more than satisfactory, though the prices do suffer a bit from tourism area up charge, but still modest.
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Main Counter
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Ribeye with Potatoes
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Erick and Patti
Prague – La Bottega Linka Italian Restaurant – Gabi and Ericka
In keeping with our travel recommendation about train travel, as opposed to taking a plane, we took the ÖOB Railjet train from Vienna in Austria to Prague in the Czech Republic. We just feel it is a quicker solution for short to medium destinations, when you take into account all the nonsense and preparation you must do to travel by air, which usually takes anywhere from two hours on each end. It just isn’t worth the effort to us for a one hour flight, when if you could use the time to enjoy the countryside or read a good book.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
On To Prague
Our next destination was Prague, where we are to meet my daughter and son-in-law. We left our hotel and using a taxi reached the main station in Vienna in about fifteen minutes. The main train station in Vienna is a very modern facility and connected to the U1 metro and the D Line of the Tram network, so there are multiple ways to reach it.
The Bucolic Czech Countryside
Of course, the Austrian and Czech Republic countrysides in this area of Europe are very similar, being mostly agricultural, with some natural reserved areas and wooded areas.
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
Vienna Hauptbahnhof
Austrian ÖOB Railjet Train – First Class
Austrian Countryside
Arriving in Breclav – Our First Stop
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Arriving in Brno
Czech Republic – Arriving in Brno
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Czech Republic – Countryside
Here are also a few videos I shot while enjoying the ride.
Some Recommendations
Upon reaching Prague, we decided to walk with our luggage to the Imperial Hotel, which is about fifteen minutes from the station. Though it can be done, and we actually did it, I cannot say I advise doing it. The Czech streets, in this area and most walkways in the older part of the city, are paved using a special highly contoured version of Sanpietrini, which is actually very difficult to pull your luggage on. It probably also raises hell with wheels on your luggage. So, a word of caution, what you see on the walkway immediately leaving the train station will last until you reach your hotel. That would be the time to seriously contemplate going back and getting into a taxi. Happy travels!
Below the cacophony of Vienna’s innere Stadt, the Resselpark, Karlskirche and the Kärtner Ring is a rather large conglomeration of museums, gardens and fountains is the Belvedere Palace.
Belvedere Palace and Gardens
Belvedere
The palace and its gardens are divided in two, known as the Oberen (Upper) and Unteren (Lower) Belvedere. Between them one can find the exceptional gardens of the palace called the Belvedere Gardens. To the right of this are also the Botanical Gardens, which we did not have time to visit.
Belvedere Gate Entrance
Belvedere Gardens – Upper and Lower Belvedere Museums – Tickets For Two
Upper Belvedere
This museum holds the primary collection of the Belvedere, including many famous artists, Austria’s own Klimt and others like Monet, Rodin and Schiele. Words cannot describe what a slow walk and intense focus on these works feels like unless you visit these works in person. Second best is a slide show on those pieces that I found the most moving and interesting of the collection, enjoy.
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Stairway
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway – Medusa Gorgon
Upper Belvedere Museum – Stairway – Stheno and Euryale Gorgons
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall – Panorama (distorted)
Upper Belvedere Museum – Grand Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Donner – Venus in the Forge of Vulcan
Upper Belvedere Museum – Platzer – Rebecca at the Well
Upper Belvedere Museum – Brandt – Castle Ruin and Horse Cart
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schinnagl – Morgen
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schinnagl – Abend
Upper Belvedere Museum – Portrait Hall
Upper Belvedere Museum – Other works
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schaller – Adolescent Cupid
Upper Belvedere Museum – Other Marble Works
Upper Belvedere Museum – Rodin – Bust of Gustav Mahler
Upper Belvedere Museum – Monet – Path in Garden of Giverny
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt – Flowering Poppies
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt
Upper Belvedere Museum – Klimt – Schloßkammer in der Attersee
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schloßkapelle – Castle Chapel
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schiele – Die Umarmung – The Embrace
Upper Belvedere Museum – Kolig
Upper Belvedere Museum – Ethofer – Café Tomaselli in Salzburg
Upper Belvedere Museum – Schindler – Saw Mill in Morning Mist
Upper Belvedere Museum – Charlemont – Inside a Hammer Mill
Upper Belvedere Museum – Thoren – Cow attacked by Wolves
Belvedere Gardens
A marvelous September day, a breeze with some chill and a beautiful garden go hand in hand, especially when you can share it with someone; in this case, my wife.
Belvedere Gardens
Belvedere Gardens – View of Lower Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens – Upper Belvedere
Belvedere Gardens and Reflecting Pond
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Step Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens and Muscle Fountain
Belvedere Gardens – View of Vienna
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Lower Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Gardens
Lower Belvedere Museum – Patti in the Gardens
We had a great time just slowly walking through the gardens and listening to the fountains, enjoying the landscape[1]Which is being prepared for the Belvedere’s up and coming Jubilee next year in 2023. and the stillness that you do not get in other parts of this very busy city.
Lower Belvedere
This part of the museum contains more off-beat art works. Mostly contemporary artists and works, the Joseph Rebell collection, which goes back to the early 1800s, is extremely good and important. His landscapes of Naples, Vesuvius and other parts of the Mediterranean. Again, it is best to view these works in the context of a slide show.
Lower Belvedere Museum
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Bielik – Tree with Lights
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Wisinger-Florian – Prater Alle im Herbst
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Bielik – Burning Tree
Lower Belvedere Museum – Fischer – Heart of Reality
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Exhibits of Joseph Rebel
Lower Belvedere Museum – Old Horse Stables
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Church Related Exhibits
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
Lower Belvedere Museum – Rebell – Mediterranean Works
That concludes our visit to Vienna. We found it a fast paced interesting place to visit that eagerly welcomes tourists. Extremely cosmopolitan where it is easier to find an Italian restaurant than a traditional Viennese one, but such is the price of progress and tourism. For that, one might have to venture further, perhaps to Graz, or even Güssing in Burgenland.
In Vienna, as with many older cities in Europe, there are interesting things to see not only above ground, but below as well. Today was a rainy day and we had to deal with as best we could, that could have meant museums, but everyone else had that idea. In attempt to continue to avoid crowded place, whenever possible, we decided on the offbeat.
Vienna – Vermählungsbrunnen
Schweizertor – The Swiss Gate
The swiss gate is the oldest gate or door and part of the Hofburg, dating back to the 1300s. It is part of the original square castle that included four turrets on each corner. It’s not much to see, but is a remarkable color red.
Vienna – Schweizertur – Swiss Gate
Die Ankeruhr
The Anker Clock is located on Hoher Markt, next to the Judengasse.
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr
Vienna – Die Ankeruhr – Legend
It chimes and performs a small show every noon time, otherwise all you will witness is an hourly chime, as follows.
Kapuzinergruft – Kaisergruft – Habsburg Tomb
If you are at all interested in the Habsburgs, and perhaps where they might be buried, look no further than the Kapuzinergruft. Also called the Kaisergruft or Habsburg Tomb, it is located on Neuer Markt and next to the Kapuziner Kloster.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Kaiser Gruft or Crypt – Tickets For Two
The gruft contains many of the families of the Habsburgs and Habsburg-Lothringen and includes a genealogy of the members who rest in this place. Some of the coffins also have amazing details, most of which have to do with wars[1]I sometime wonder when we are going to get over or need for that exercise in futility.
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft – Habsburg Genealogy
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Vienna – Kapuzinergruft
Restaurants
Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Lounge
If you stay at the Grand Hotel Wien, you should look into any combination package that offers breakfast. Unless you are an extremely light eater in the morning, you will not do much better outside. They have a hot and cold menu (buffet), and the portion size is well managed, so you won’t have to worry about walking around with a lot of extra weight.
Vienna – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast
Café Central
One of the oldest cafes in Vienna, the Café Central is located in the old Palais Ferstel building on the corner of Herren- and Strauchgasse. Famous personages like Freud and Trotsky have visited this establishment, though today the conversations today, one could say, are less political or analytical.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Building and entrance
We made reservations for lunch and commend anyone do that same. The line waiting to get in can be long and when it rains out, as it did today, you do not want to find yourself getting wet before sitting down after a twenty or so minute wait.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Show case at entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Looking toward entrance
Vienna – Cafe Central – Patti enjoying lunch
Vienna – Cafe Central – Main Room
The food is good and traditional. I can commend a good red wine from Burgenland called Blaufränkish, which is served by the glass for around 5.50€. It is an excellent accompaniment for Wüstchens and Gulash soup. It is very busy, so service can be intermittent at times, so be patient.
Vienna – Cafe Central – Würstchen platter and Maygar Gulash
Vienna – Cafe Central – Apfelstrüdel – a local and personal favorite
Anyone visiting Vienna has to have museums on the top of their list of things-to-do. This city is home to many extraordinary examples of very good museums, some even housed in former palaces. The Albertina is just such an example and a must see when visiting Vienna, their collection of fine art is, shall we say, first rate.
Vienna – The Natural History Museum – Naturhistorisches Museum Wien
Some Museums of Vienna
In fact, there are so many museums in Vienna, it is perhaps difficult to list them all. Below are a few that we visited and thoroughly enjoyed, along with a few photographs, just to remember the important works of art that are there.
The Hofburg
A complex of museums and a library, which we found out only allows users who are doing research or have special permission. Though we did not see any museums here, it does include a World Museum and a Papyrus Museum.
Vienna – The Hofburg Gate
Vienna – The Hofburg – 1821 built in memory of the Battle of Leipzig
Vienna – The Hofburg
Vienna – The Hofburg
Vienna – The Hofburg – Prince Eugene Statue
Vienna – The Hofburg – Erzherzog Karl – Equestrian Statue
Maria-Theresien-Platz
Sitting across from one another, on the Maria-Theresien Platz, are the Art History and Natural History museums. This impressive public square was built with the public in mind, where they could come and enjoy the museums and stroll the grounds afterwards. The square is joined on the one end by the Museumquartier and on the other by the Burgring (Ringstraße), across which lies the Hofburg.
Vienna – The Natural History Museum
Vienna – The Art History Museum
Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Tickets for Two
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Main Stairway – Works by Klimt and others
Across the Burgring from the Hofburg is the Art History Museum of Vienna, or the Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien. It houses unique art pieces collected by the Habsburgs during their reign.
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ceiling
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Jewelry Collection
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Cameos
Vienna – The Art History Museum – A Griffin
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Roman and Greek bronzes and vases
Vienna – The Art History Museum – Ancient Bust
The Albertina
Formerly a palace, the Albertina was rebuilt after the Second World War and refurbished at the turn of the millennium. It contains collections of works by Monet, Picasso, Dürer and Da Vinci to name a few, my favorites are the works by Klee and Chagall. Here is a slideshow of some of those works.
Batliner Collection
A famous collection of paintings featuring Monet and Picasso, the Batliner Collection was endowed to the Albertina by Herbert Batliner’s estate. It contains many important collections by modernist artists, including Chagall, Ernst and Klee. Here is a slideshow of what this collection has to offer.
The building also has a collection of state rooms that were used by the archdukes and archduchesses of the Habsburgs. It consists of about twenty rooms of varying styles and designs.
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Vienna – Albertina – State Rooms
Restaurants
La Scala Trattoria
Yes we know, Italian food in Austria? Yes and yes! It is amazing how many Italian restaurants and trattoria there are here, including chains like Vapiano’s, if you need a quick bite for lunch.
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
This was a great pick for lunch, the hosts are very attentive and the food is speedily and well prepared. Though I would say that cuisine that is offered has an almost Rome feel to it, either due to the owners origin or as a response to tourist’s expectations. All in all, you couldn’t any better in Vienna than selecting this place to eat Italian food.
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala – Spaghetti al Pomodoro e Basilico
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala – Spaghette Aglio Olio
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Vienna – Italian Restaurant – La Scala
Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer
This is an old Viennese restaurant, formerly owned by Sacher[1]The same person one who made the Sacher Torte famous, which was named after the exploits of a chimney sweep who had a torrid love affair with a young woman baker who used to work in the building. After some time of coming out each morning covered in baking flour the locals would jokingly call the place of the White Chimney Sweep.
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
The food is traditional for this area and very well prepared, the pea soup was marvelous. The Wiener Schnitzel was above average with the breading being very tasty, crusty and separated from the veal, making for a delicious entree. As such, expect to pay above average prices.
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer – Pea Soup
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer – Wiener Schnitzel
Vienna – Restaurant Rauchfangkehrer
Be aware, though we were seated immediately at fifteen after six in the evening, management of getting a table appeared a bit capricious to us. They seem to turn some parties away while accepting others of the same size without reservations. My wife and I were puzzled, so reservations are easy enough to make and probably a good idea.
Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse – City Building
Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse und Seilerstätte
Vienna – Altstadt – Himmelpfortgasse und Seilerstätte
Stubentor And City Wall
Along our walk we happened upon a monument for the old city wall and the Stuben Tower, which was part of it at one time.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Stuben Stadtmauer
The Danube
After a considerable two to three mile walk, and a cafe stop for coffee, we enjoyed a walk to this famous river, as well as a short walk along its banks.
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance
Vienna – Zwischenbrücken – Danube – Entrance – River Cruises
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – More brown than blue
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – More brown than blue
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Reichesbrücke
The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Not far from the Danube and in the Stuwerviertal, close to Mexicoplatz is the church of Saint Francis of Assisi.
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Vienna – Stuwerviertel – Danube – Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Almost directly in the center of the old city is Saint Stephan’s Cathedral. We were fortunate enough to be at the cathedral on a Sunday to hear them play the marvelous bells.
The cathedral is impressive, both inside and out, almost reminiscent of the Kolner Dom.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Entrance
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Roof
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Saint Stephan’s Cathedral – Inside
Our flight from Milan to Vienna was rather quick and thankfully uneventful. Though I will admit, if Vienna was within a six (6) hour train ride, I would still rather take a train.
Austria – Flight from Milan – Mountain Snows
Austria – Flight from Milan – Vienna from the air
Additionally, I would say, Austrian Airlines would not be my favorite airline to take. It is better than Spirit and RyanAir, but worse than Delta and other larger carriers. It’s meant to be cheap and it feels it. We only took it out of convenience.
Grand Hotel Wien
When choosing a hotel we were looking for something with Wiener charm and found it the Grand Hotel. The rooms are grand, comfortable and the hotel staff and service are great.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien
The outside is rather unassuming, but the inside and its rooms have that old age charm. It contains a cafe and three restaurants and will meet most peoples needs for their short stay in this very cosmopolitan city.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Hotel Room
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Foyer
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Grand Hotel Wien – Breakfast Hall
A Quick Look At Vienna
Our first day or so was spent getting a quick look at the city. Our first impressions are it is a rather clean city for its size, but not as clean as Ljubljana, Slovenian. It has an extensive and very useful commuter infrastructure, including rail, tram, cycling and pedestrian ways all clearly marked and very easy to use. The WienMobile mobile application is also very useful and easy to set up.
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Mall
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Wiental Canal
Vienna – Innen Stadt East
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Stubenring
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Stubenring
Vienna – Innen Stadt – Stubenring
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse – Trinity Column
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kärtner Strasse – Trinity Column
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Kohlmarkt Strasse
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Sisi Museum
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Cafe Central
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Austrian Stock Market
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Alt Stadt
Vienna – Typical City Street
Vienna – Typical Architecture
Restaurants
Wiener Küche
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche
A small Viennese restaurant on Bräunerstraße, Wiener Küche serves traditional Austrian and Wiener cuisine. Needing our first sample of local food, we stopped here for our early afternoon meal. We both chose the Beef Gulash with Parsley Potatoes.
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche – Patti freezing
Vienna – Alt Stadt – Wiener Küche – Beef Gulash with Parsley Potatoes and Merlot
Taking the Pila Cable Car from Aosta one can have a marvelous day trip above the clouds. At over six thousands feet in elevation, Pila sits over Aosta and the valley like an eagle’s nest.
Pila – Pila Cable Car – Tickets For Two
For a modest round trip fee of 7€/person, you can take the 15-20 minute ride on the cable car and enjoy a ride up the mountainside and the Aosta Valley. The cable car takes you over the small towns on the other side of the Dora Bàltea river from Aosta, where you can see the bucolic farms and vineyards from above.
Our Cable Car Ride And Day In Pila
Since there really isn’t much else to tell, a few short series of photographs is all that it takes to enjoy this wonderful day adventure, enjoy!
The Way Up
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Station
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Ride Up
Aosta – Pila Cable Car Ride Up
Pila – Pila Ski Resort and Views
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car Going Up
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car Going Up
The Ski Resort
Pila Ski Resort – Bike Center
Pila Ski Resort – Dirt Trail
Pila Ski Resort – Fog Clouds rolling in
Pila Ski Resort – Resort and Clouds
Pila Ski Resort – An Old Stump
Pila Ski Resort – Clouds
Pila Ski Resort – Cable Car and Aosta Valley below
After a long day of bus rides and cable cars, it was time for some hiking. Nothing hard for our age, but moderate enough, just to get the legs to ache and the bones to complain a little.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama from other end
Having purchased a subscription to AllTrails, we had time before we left Turin to plan several hikes, of varying difficulty. Since the weather was so nice, we went for a scenic hike and chose Gargantua Hill.[1]Though technically any heap of rock and dirt may be called a hill, this is actually a glacial moraine, deposited thousands of years ago when the glaciers from the last Ice Age left this valley.
Map – Our Route
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve – Hike Map 2D
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve – Hike Map 3D
The hike was rather simple, leave our hotel, use the tunnel to go under the rail station, walk across the Pont Suaz bridge and walk the neighborhoods until we reached the hill, then ascend it.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Dora Bàltea river
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Dora Bàltea river
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Town of Charvensod
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Crossing the Pila Cable Car
We brought plenty of water, and were happy that we did, because it was pretty warm, perhaps in the middle 80s (about 28/29C). I also wore a hat part of the way, which helped to shade the sun beating down on me, so one can say – wearing a hat is good advise.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Town or Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Local Vineyard
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Apple Orchards in Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Apple Orchards in Ampaillant
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta in the distance
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta in the distance – Closeup
Gargantua Nature Preserve
The hill is part of the Riserva Naturale de Gargantua, or Gargantua Nature Preserver, and is some 150m, or 450 feet, in elevation. It has several trails on either side, most of which can be used to ascend and descend it. The one we chose was from the vineyard side to the east, with an approach from where it joins with the mountain. This was slightly easier than a direct approach, since it afforded us the use of the farming roads a third of the way up.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Trail on Gargantua
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Aosta
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti on the Gargantua Trail
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Tall Peaks
The hill is mostly porous dirt, rocks and stones, therefore it does not hold water very well and was severely dry due to this year’s climatic conditions in Italy. The dirt was very loose and without proper foot gear, one could easily slip in it.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama on top of hill – 150m (450ft) above valley
The summit provides impressive views of the entire Aosta Valley, with an excellent view of Aosta to the east.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Valle d’Aosta to the east
There are also several monuments and other artifacts on the top, including a score of music, a cross and some signs (which I did not translate).
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Il Silenzio della Fate – Score Sheet
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Il Silenzio della Fate – Marker
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – The Cross
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Valle d’Aosta to the east
The hike down was a bit more interesting than the ascent, since it was from the end of the hill that sticks out into the valley. Therefore, it was a bit steeper and more treacherous. There were several places that we had to be careful, but luckily there were always enough rocks on which we could purchase a grip.
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – The Cross
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti made it!
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Patti on the way down
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Gardens
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Gardens
That does it for our day hike in Aosta. In all, it totaled about 7.5 miles and some 450ft in ascent and descent, and about three and a half hours to hike. We went straight to a restaurant, since we had been out since 9:30AM and did not want the restaurants closing while we were dropping our things off at the hotel. All in all, a very gratifying September day of hiking in Aosta. Go Hike!
Aosta – Gargantua Nature Reserve Hike – Panorama with mountains
Though technically any heap of rock and dirt may be called a hill, this is actually a glacial moraine, deposited thousands of years ago when the glaciers from the last Ice Age left this valley.
