After somewhat of a hiatus, we are back for a bit in Turin. Several things required our attention at home and therefore we have been away longer than we would have liked.
Piazza San Carlo, Turin – 2024
In many respects the city is just like we left it last year, in some others, not so much. There are major public works projects going on, so there are some major thoroughfares that are closed and other scaffolding eye-sores to try and ignore. Aside from that, it is rather quiet, since most Italians have left for their August vacation.
Weather
We thought the weather in North Carolina was strange, being as wet as it has been before we left. But it appears to have followed us here as well.
Very bad thunderstorm with hail, via Plana – Turin – 2024
Though not unheard of, this is not the rainy season in Turin, thunderstorms are usually rare this time of year. This one popped up from nowhere and caused quite a scene. It also was severe enough to trash most of the vegetation, especially in our courtyard. My only hope is the sorrounding wine regions were spared.
Restaurants
For the month and a half that we will be here, we have visited or re-visited the following restaurants in our city.
Trattoria D’Agata
This restaurant has great food and decent house wine, if you like that with your lunch. The Chicken Cutlet is huge and very filling, so be careful what else you order with it. The Caponata is amazing, so that is a must order item, if you don’t you will regret it, there is nothing comparable in the States. The Arancini is also a must try!
Arancini – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Arancini from the inside – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Caponata – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Eggplant Parm – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Chicken Cutlet – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
At Home
We cook Italian and rather conservatively most evenings. A typical dish that is easy to make and tastes great, especially with tomatoes from Italy, is Pasta e Patate in olive sauce with Pecorino Romano DOP cheese sprinkled over it. Yum.
Dinner at Giovanni GIolitti – Pasta with olives – Turin – 2024
We left Turin early in the morning on the 5:50AM train, in order to catch the FrecciaRossa from Turin to Milan. Of course, due to the early hour, we used the Wetaxi Application and ordered a taxi for 12€ to take us to Porta Nuovo, the main train station in this part of the city.
Torino Train Station – Turin, Italy
Torino Train Station – Turin, Italy
Patti on the Freccia Rossa between Turin and Milan – Turin, Italy
Freccia Rossa to Venezia – Milan, Italy
Our connecting FrecciaRossa, took us from Milan to Venice Maestre, where we picked up our Austrian ÖBB train to Villach, Austria. Luckily, all of our connections, and there were four, worked without issue.
M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
An hour train north of Villach, Austria you can find the small health spa town of Bad Gastein. Though a shadow of its former self, when dignitaries and other luminaries used to visit for its waters and mountain air, it is still worth a visit, if not only for the aforementioned reasons.
View from Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Quiet, spa zone – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein
The town runs at a slower pace than other mountains towns we have visited. Perhaps it is more difficult to capture tourist monies with a waterfall and health resort as the primary attractions, as opposed to say a very large mountain or a large ski resort complex.
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the town center – Bad Gastein, Austria
There are parts of the town center that appear to be in eternal repair. Though there is work going on here and there, it does not appear to have progressed much in the last few years. The thermal water fountain building and the old Kurhotel of Austria appear permanently closed. Unfortunately, there are no signs posted explaining the reason, so we were just left to ponder what might have happened.
Bismark House – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke – Bad Gastein, Austria
Franz Schubert denkmal – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lower waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotels
Hotel Salzburger Hof
We stayed at the Salzburger Hof, a very large hotel close to the train station with all the amenities. It appears to be one of the better kept establishments in Bad Gastein, with two pools, three restaurants and a health spa. Apparently host to Count von Bismark and other dignitaries, including many American personalities.
Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Flowers – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
The rooms are very spacious and well appointed. The hotel seems proud of its tradition of important guests, there are photographs of everyone who has visited hung throughout the hotel and in the rooms.
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Our room – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Our view – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Kaiser was here – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lobby – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lobby – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Gasteiner Falls
The main attraction in the center of town now are the falls. The great Gasteiner Waterfalls are indeed impressive, especially after the storm that has just passed through this region of Europe. Since a video is worth a thousand words, here are a few.
It is easy enough to get a glimpse of the waterfalls by walking the main road through town and stopping at the bridge.
Town Center – Bad Gastein, Austria
Memorial – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Garmskarkogel mountain and Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Downstream – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Downstream waterfall – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Waterfall way – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
After taking in their beauty from the bridge, there are also other vantage points from which the falls may be enjoyed. But, that requires a bit of climbing and some hiking, all of which can be done with modern sneakers, not equipment necessary.
Patti – Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Erick – Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
The history of Gasteine – Bad Gastein, Austria
The waterfall way – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking down from the bridge – Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
There is a section above the falls where they were purposely redirected some years ago by a dam that was built by a member of the clergy. This forces all the current water down a single corridor within the rocks.
Hiking Trails
There are numerous trails for walking, hiking and biking around town. For our first day our we chose the one that visited the Upper Gastein Falls and then descended towards lower Bad Gastein.
Looking toward the M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
The M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the town center – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein – Bad Gastein, Austria
The M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke clock tower – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Reitlpromenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Restaurants
La Pizzeria Napoletana
A very small Italian pizzeria stuck in the back of a another building right next to the Gasteiner Falls is the La Pizzeria Napoletana.
La Pizzeria Napoletana – Bad Gastein, Austria
Their tomato and mozzarella pizza is thin and very tasty. This restaurant has a minimal menu of pizza, beer, soft drinks and some wine, there is little else to choose from if you are really hungry.
Pizza Tomato and Mozzerella – La Pizzeria Napoletana – Bad Gastein, Austria
The pizza is authentic, right down to its crust. The prices are very reasonable and emblematic of what you would expect in a small town or city in Italy.
Orania Stueberl Restaurant
A restaurant that is almost always open, it is a good go-to place when you have few if any options. The food is good, but rather predictable, but that could be said for the rest of the cuisine in this small town.
Entrance – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Murmeltier – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
A salad and Gulash with Knödeln – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ice cream with cream and chocolate sauce – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The interior is adorned with numerous sacrificial animals that were ostensibly killed locally and now inhabit this restaurant’s walls. I guess I never understood if this practice was supposed to be in honor of the animal that was killed, or in spite of it. In any case, it appears a bit overdone.
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Inside – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The bar – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Dead animals on walls – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Perhaps one of the best times to visit Turin is in the spring. The wind is still blowing from the north, the rivers are full, the trees are in bloom and the swallows and swifts are returning from their long winter stay in Africa. We live close to the river and found you do not need insecticide here, just a healthy population of these birds and you will rarely be bitten.
Springtime – River Po – Turin, Italy
A great time to walk the city and visit its many restaurants and cafes as well as the river Po and Valentino Park. On weekends and holidays there is always activity on the river.
Restaurants
For my readers, some secrets that will help you beat the tourist lines in Turin at the other places and make your stomach very happy.
Il Buongusto
One of our new favorites and right around the corner from our apartment at via Alfonso Bonafous is the local secret, Il Buongusto. Definitely not for tourists, in fact I would encourage only those seeking a Piedmontese experience to drop in. Everything is fresh and made in the kitchen, which is actually open to the restaurant.
IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Be patient, gastronomy takes time and preparation. If you want to be in and out, select something like a salad and water, or frankly go to a fast food place on via Po. Good food takes time and this little restaurant gets very busy. When all else fails, use your Grissini fishing rod to reel in your waitress or waiter for more drinks.
Erick with Fishing Pole Grissini Torinesi – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
The food is very good, the prices are reasonable and the wine list satisfactory, so you can always select a reasonably good wine to keep you busy while waiting. The local house selection includes Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, or Barolo by the glass, which suffice nicely.
Inside – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Kitchen – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Speaking of which, if you really love tomatoes, order the Bruschetta. For the price you get about seven large pieces of bread covered with garlic infused tomatoes and basil, with an olive oil drizzle. Yum.
Bruschetta – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Our food was cooked perfectly, the spaghetti sauce here is uncomplicated and delicious, the cook preferring the amazing Italian tomatoes to tell their own story. I love Italian pasta, um.
Agnolotti with Parmigiano – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Orecchiette with Sausage – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Lunch for (2) two: 30+ to 40+€
La Prosciutteria
On a lark and after a long walk through the Valentino Park and along the other side of the river, we tried La Prosciutteria on Piazza Vittorio Veneto and via Alfonso Bonafous.
Entrance – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
We ordered water, wine, a bruschetta and a charcuterie board. The bruschetta was good, the little olives they used were very tasty.
Bread, Bruschetta and Brunello – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Though I am not a meat eater by nature, the charcuterie here is quite good, especially the Tuscan cheese selections. I would suggest trying the cheeses first au natural, many are exceptional and have delicate flavors. Smearing the honey they provide I found masked their flavors, since none were blue cheeses and were not very strong. The honey by itself was delicious and would be great with a Roquefort, a Blue or similar cheese, but not much with the ones we were given.
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Back Wall – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Esoteric Inside – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
In the end our bill was a bit on the high side, but not bad for a place on the Piazza Vittoria Veneto. Below is an example of what you can expect for two people. The two glasses of wine being the most expensive, similar to what you would find in the States now (it was never like this before, some prices are crazy, though I would say most glasses of local wines are frequently around 4-5€).
Il Konto (Our Bill) – La Prosciutteria – Turin – April 2023
Surrounded on the three sides, by what are generally called the Hills of Piedmont (for which Superga Hill is one), sits the town of Chieri. A town that goes back to ancient times, due to the richness of the area and the Po river valley.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking west toward Pino Torinese
From Turin it is easy to get to Chieri. One can either take a bus or take the Sfm1 train from Porta Susa, which runs about every thirty minutes, it is about a thirty minute ride to Chieri and the last stop for this train.
Chieri – Patti at the Tandem Bar on Vittorio Emanuele II
The main pedestrian way, via Vittorio Emanuele II, is a short walk from the train station and has numerous cafes and bars, here you can purchase a coffee or other drink, before you explore this quaint little town.
Town Of A Hundred Towers
During the early middle ages, the town once had numerous towers, especially built into the town wall, which were erected (like in many other towns in Italy) as defensive structures. Most of these were destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa’s army when they laid waste to the town in 1154. However, a few still remain, one of which can be seen below.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking south and one of the remaining towers
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking southeast
Church of Sant Giorgio
This is the highest point and from here you can get a commanding view of the town, as seen in the two photographs above and the beginning photograph.
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio on the hill
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio tunnel to overlook
Other than that, there’s not much else to do in Chieri, except perhaps amble through its quiet streets and perhaps do some shopping. Here is a short slide show of some of the other things you can see while here.
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Restaurants
With limited time we were only able to visit one restaurant while here, though several that came up on our search were not open until the evening. However, you will find the choice below to be exceptionally good, if and when you have the chance to visit this charming little town in Piedmont.
Trattoria della Erbe
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe
This trattoria sits on the corner of the Piazza Umberto I and via San Domenico, is fairly non-descript, but the food is authentic Sardinian and quite good.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Caponata Siciliana
The menu changes daily and is posted on both a board outside and on the window next to the entrance. The menu is restrictive, as for most small establishments like this one, but everything we ordered was quite tasty and delicious. We started with some antipasti, a Caponata Siciliana, served with eggplant, onion, peppers, green olives and other goodies, not hot, but just warmed a bit. A slight tinge of vinegar mixed with the tomato based sauce was just right to get the taste buds to pucker for more. Our mains, or primis, came out a short time after and included the Levantine di Mare for Patti and for me, the Ravioli Sardi. Both were delicious and portioned correctly, just enough to leave a little room for dessert!
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Levantina di Mare
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Ravioli Sardi
The dessert was actually unexpectedly delicious and savory. A Sardinian Seada or Seadas, that can only be explained as a kind of dough pocket filled with assorted cheese, heated and served with honey. The sweetness of the honey and the saltiness of the cheese make for an unexpectedly tasty treat.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Seada or Seadas
Top that off later with a caffè and Sambuca (to make caffè corretto of course) and you have the culmination of the great lunch.
All in all, Chieri makes a great day trip, if only just to walk around and soak up its quiet stillness, after being in Turin for a few weeks. If only to experience some great Sardinian food at this trattoria!
We have been back in Turin for about a week and had to start knocking restaurants off of our list, at least those that we always wanted to visit. After our recent trip to Greece, we decided we had had enough of eating in and it was time to start eating out again. The following are a few special ones we feel we should mention.
Disclaimer:Â If you are coming from the US, please keep in mind portion sizes in Italy and perhaps most of Europe for that matter, are not like in the States. In Italy there is always Antipasti, a Primi and then a Secondi for those who need more.
La Piola di Alfredo
When in Piedmont and especially Turin, if you see the word Piola in the name of a restaurant, you are more than likely going to experience some really good local food. You may think of the word Piola synonymous with Trattoria.
La Piola di Alfredo – Turin
The restaurant itself is quietly unassuming and nondescript. The owners and help speak no English, so it is best if you learn at least a little Italian (or your favorite translation application, good luck), or at the very minimum point to what you want.
Pollo Carpione with Vinegar Onions and Tomato Salad
Agnolotti alla Ragu
My wife an I were just interested in something to drink and a simple lunch. Though the bottled Nebbiolo wine by the glass ran about €5/glass and was very good, the cheaper alternative was the Vino Sfuso, or house bulk wine, which can be purchased for €2/glass or €10/Liter and is probably very good (I will make a point of it to try it next time).
Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant
We have written about Nuovo Zhen Bao before and it has become one of our go-to places for Chinese food. We have tried other Chinese restaurants throughout Turin, but none have come close to the delicious salads (especially the dressing on the Insalata Cinese), spring rolls and main courses as does this restaurant. The service is usually first rate and they normally have plenty of help on hand.
They have both outside and inside dining, as well as an excellent lunch (Pranzo) menu for only €10, which includes a bottle of water, appetizer, first and second courses.
Vietnamese Rolls
Chinese Salad
Vegetables Rice
Pork with Onions
Chicken with Potatoes
My Missing Tiramisu
Stimonio
A bistro that serves naturally and bio friendly items from its menu. They have several items, such as sweet and vegan pancakes, as well as other bio- and earth-friendly choices.
Stimonio Bistro
We chose the tuna salad, so they are not exclusively vegan. I had preferred a more complete Piemontese menu, but they do offer a plethora of smoothies and other health friendly items from which to chose. They do not have a house wine or bulk wine (vino sfuso), so wine by the glass can be a bit expensive for Italy at €5/glass (I normally wouldn’t mind, but for that price it isn’t that good).
Ristorante L’Agrofoglio
Much to our dismay, we must announce the closure of the L’Agrofoglio Ristorante and Piola. We had reported on their very good menu and excellent wine cellar, only to be saddened by their closure when we arrived back in Turin early this year. A major loss, I will never forget the unbelievable Barolo that we enjoyed there during our Sunday lunch in July of 2021. A wine, I subsequently tried to order a few months later, only to be told it was no longer available. I lamented of course. (We tried the 2013, which sadly, wasn’t quite the same).
A short drive, just outside Torre Pellice, is the small commune of Angrogna. Situated high up on the hill. Overlooking Torre Pellice, Angrogna commands a very nice view of the valley floor and hides a local secret in the form of a tiny underground chapel by a mostly unknown religious sect.
The Waldensians
The Waldensians were and are a pre-reformation sect that was extremely persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church as heretical. Therefore, they had to take their religious practices in many places underground, in order to escape discrimination, capture, torture and in many cases death. In Angrogna you will find one such hide out, a small cave on a mountainside used as a chapel. Here members would secretly meet in order to carry out their many religious practices without the notice of the church or local onlookers.
The Geology Close To The Waldensian Chapel – Craggy And Full Of Boulders
The Waldensian Chapel
The cave is a poor collection of boulders left by the ice age that apparently produced a cave structure suitable enough for such practices. It is difficult to find, if they were not signs and an entrance stairway to its opening. Even then, the entrance is wet, a very tight fit for most present individuals, and thus requires a degree climbing to actually reach the inner chamber.
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The inner chamber is a small, wet and very dark room about five by ten meters. It includes a small makeshift altar, but nothing else. In its day, it must have been something to experience during a mass.
The School Of Odin-Bertot
Very close by and less than a few hundred meter walk from the hidden chapel, is the School of Odin-Bertot.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Outside View of the School Room Entrance
Reminiscent of one room school houses in many other rural areas, this one specifically served the mountain people of the area. Since the above link explains all, a few more photographs of the interior and the museum are all that’s in order at this point.
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How To Get There
There are several ways to get there, either via the School of Odin, or by the parking area further away. Since maps are worth a thousands words, here are two that you will find once there, but they also show the overall area so you can use this with what ever map, app or device you have to cross reference your way there.
Map For The Waldensian Church And School Of Odin
Local Map Of Historic Sites
Directions
Between Torre Pellice and Luserna San Giovanni you should find road 161. At the traffic circle, take the road towards Angrogna. You should also see signs for the Guieiza d’la Tana, the Chabas and the Vaccera. Keep following road to the main town square, then continue for about two kilometers and you will arrive in the hamlet of Serre. Turn right, you should see the beginning of the path and the signs “Chanforan” and “Odin”. Walk the path, following the sign for Ghieisa D’La Tana. You will eventually come to a wooden railing with the words Entrata on it, walk down the steps, you have arrived at the temple.
For some time, my wife Patti has been wanting for us to visit her friends in Malpertus. Thankfully with Covid restrictions waning, hopefully along with the virus itself, we finally committed to visiting them this week. In order to get there, we had to take the train from Turin’s Porta Susa terminal, instead of our customary train station, Porta Nuovo. Once on the train, the trip length was about forty-five minutes, which included about eight stops along the way.
Pinerolo appeared to be fairly quiet and we had noticed most people were preoccupied with the Saturday market place, that was taking place in the main square from the train station. We took little notice of this and continued directly down the main street, via Del Duomo, until we found a suitable place to eat.
Restaurants
Trattobar Kreuzberg
We initially stopped at a pizza place, but they apparently only took orders inside. So, after a quick reconnaissance further up the street we found a trattoria called Trattobar Kreuzberg.
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Though the food was very good and for a fair price, the service, even for Italian standards, was very slow. It took us all of three hours to complete our lunch, and we could tell several other clients sitting at tables next to use were not happy either, and they were Italian. So if you are in a hurry, either get seating inside or by the entrance (of course in the hope they will see and not forget you) and not out in the umbrella piazza annex, where we were seated.
Borgata Malpertus
Our hosts live in a very small hamlet called a Borgata. It’s actually just a string of small stone houses collected neatly on the hillside of the Pellice River Valley.
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
The rest of the Borgata is contained within a few roads or alleys, through which anyone can amble at their leisure. There are few residents here and some of the structures are in dire need of repair and restoration.
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Repairs needed – Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Our host, hostess and their son are great and they have done an amazing job of renovating their own place.
Lisa and Sam Chiodo – Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus – Malpertus
Their son Luca – Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus – Malpertus
Venturing Out A Bit
Taking a short walk from the Borgata and a stone’s throw away is Napolean’s Bridge. Of course, Napolean did not build, nor even cross the Pellice River using this bridge. It was built at least a hundred years before he was even born and it is believed that his army never ventured down the valley that far, if in this valley at all.
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However, it is a nice walk and an improbable feature of the valley, since it appears to have been built near no know important structure, castle or fortress, yet obviously took a tremendous amount of work to complete.
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Along the way there are an amazing assortment of flowers and as with other parts of Italy, the fields and pastures are abuzz with this sound of bees and the chirping calls of crickets. So if you are looking for a place for some peace of mind, this might be an appropriate place for you.
Yesterday I had the occasion for a relaxing ride on my bike to Chieri and then Pecetto, both of which sit behind the hills of the Borgo Po from Turin. Although I do not normally post about my riding exploits on my blog, it is spring and this particular ride just struck me as something that others might enjoy, if given the chance.
The road to Chieri
Once outside Turin and out of Moncalieri, it is a nice slow incline into Chieri on SP122 where one can keep a moderate pace until you reach the outskirts of the town. Though I did not enter the town directly and take pictures, it is your typical Italian town connected by one State and a few Local roads. The bucolic countryside reminds me of my youth and where I grew up and the views are full of poppies, which apparently are in season.
There are poppies everywhere
Poppies in the fields
Riding out from Chieri the roads get a bit more technical and there are a few modest climbs along the way, but nothing difficult for anyone in shape.
Leaving Chieri heading towards Pecetto
Finally, one last photograph going into Pecetto, where the climbs for this particular ride stop and a slow descent into Moncalieri begins.
Directions to Pecetto
The climb into Pecetto is a bit long and about six or seven percent, so if you do not have a Garmin or similar device, you may want to prepare yourself. All in all, a very satisfying ride. Plenty of exercise, the roads are more or less in good condition, and the views are just fantastic.
Just a Garmin glimpse up to the point of descending into Moncalieri
If you ever get a chance to cycle Italy, and in particular the hills around Turin, do not pass it up. Though some roads can be a bit busy, they are no more so than in many parts of the States. So go out and enjoy, Ciao..!
Usually when visiting one of Italy’s best kept secret cities, you would think that there wouldn’t be much to do for the outdoors enthusiast. But nothing could be further from the truth. Turin has a wealth of parks sprinkled throughout the city. Most are for casual pleasure, walking the dog, strolling the baby carriage or just a good jog.
The view from the Borgo Po, Corso Moncalieri, Turin
However, just a short mile and a quarter walk from our apartment in Turin is the entrance to Giacomo Leopardi Park. Here one can find a real hiking adventure, if you are so inclined.
Giacomo Leopardi Park
Once accessible via car, it is now only open to the public via the pedestrian access and can be entered by casual walkers, hikers and any cyclists willing to dare its steep slopes.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
The park still maintains a roadway that may be walked, but for the more adventurous, there are several hiking trails that take a more direct route upwards.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – The Trails
Our initial thoughts were to make the entire hike up to Mount Eremo, visiting the Parco di San Vito along the way. However, Alltrails Pro, the portable phone application we use, gives only one value, instead of a range, for the length of time it might take you to reach your goal, which of course may not fit into your body’s aerobic or fitness calculus. So you may want to add additional time to any of the ‘moderated accepted hikes’, in order to account for any stops, water or photography breaks.
Hiking the road
Some stairs to hike
The hiking trail is well signed
Patti on the trail
Again, the trail is well signed
The link between this park and the next one, Parco di San Vito, entails some roads and real hiking.
San Vito Park
You will find the Parco di San Vito about a third of the way up to the Colle della Maddalena, or Mount Maddalena.
San Vito Park
A view of the city from San Vito Park
One of the amazing things about Turin, and Italy in general, is there willingness to not poison everything. Unlike America, they do not run out and get a can of weed killer or herbicide when something springs up that does not look like a sanctioned type of grass. Hence, the fields at the park actually have many types of wild flowers, bees and crickets! So do not expect dead silence when hiking here, like you would in most city parks in America.
After this park, we hiked a bit further up the mountain towards a small picnic area located on the map. Our plans after two hours of hiking modified somewhat, since at this point we were only halfway to our original destination.
The trail above San Vito
Patti hiking the trail above San Vito
Patti on the trail above San Vito, wild flowers are everywhere
The trails up through this stretch of woods were a bit more undeveloped and natural, the floor of the woods covered with different flowers.
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The hike through the woods continued for about another three quarters of a mile or so, and we were thinking of modifying our plans for the day.
Picnic Area Bert
After coming off the trail and turning around a bit on Quadriva Raby, you may head back and get back on the trail from Cascina Natura Pro Natura. A small picnic area on the side of the hill with a small field, some facilities if you are inclined and a picnic bench for lunch, or just a drink of water and a cliff bar.
Hiking the road up to Cascina Bert
The road up to the picnic area
Picnic area – Pro Natura Torino – Cascina Bert
The trail head down is located just to the left of that last picnic bench above. A marker can be found on the tree. However, if you miss this, there are signs and a map by the parking lot and buildings that are over to the right.
Bird Song and Fifteen Seconds of Calm
This is actually an amazing hike and you will find yourself stopping frequently just to enjoy the quiet and being out of the city for some respite.
Patti on a city stairwell in the Borgo Po area
Upon returning to Turin after about three and a half hours of hiking bliss, we took some shortcuts and discovered to what extreme Turin is willing to let some things go natural. Just goes to show, without humans around just how fast nature is willing to reassert itself.
