Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.
La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy
Getting There
The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.
Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy
The Palace
The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Grand Gallery
Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
Turin At The Turn Of The Century
There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy
The Rooms Of Art
There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy
The Stables
Juvarra Stables
The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Juvarra Stables – Turin, Italy
Alfieri Stables
Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy
The Gardens
The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy
Church of Saint Hubert
One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
La Venaria Reale – Church of Saint Hubert – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
Il Convito della Venaria
Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.
Il Convito della Venaria – Pasta with Olives and Squash – Turin, Italy
Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy
After a day of familiarizing ourselves with the town Ivrea, it was time to do some hiking and see the surrounding countryside. Though probably not known to the layperson, the lakes and surrounding area were formed by glacier activity around 9700 BCE. All five lakes and the long, gradual hill in the distance that is not a mountain of the Alps, are actually glacial moraines from that time. Here, after a long hike, we were able to repose along Lake Sirio for a long and needed lunch, as well as a magnificent view.
Five Lakes Hike – Sticker and Course Route – Ivrea, Italy
The Five Lakes Hike
In and around Ivrea are hiking trails known as the Five Lakes Hike through which part of the Via Francigena trail also passes. None of the hiking trails are difficult, per se, however many of the surfaces are poor, so hiking shoes or a good trekking shoe is commended.
Five Lakes Hike – Map – Ivrea, Italy
Unfortunately, due to time and the weather, we were unable to visit all of them and had to forgoe seeing Lake Nero and Lake Campagna. Luckily, they appear very similar to the ones below that we were able to visit, so no harm done.
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Italian Alps – Ivrea, Italy
Lake Sirio
Our first lake that we encountered was Lake Sirio, perhaps the largest of the five and it has the comenserate amount of lake resources around it for swimming, sunbathing and other activities.
Five Lakes Hike – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Erick – Ivrea, Italy
The trail winds around this lake perhaps three quarters of the way and then veers off into the woods towards Lake Pistono. We followed the trail and then made a wide circle back around, essentially making a circle, to revisit this lake and have lunch at Restaurant Il Cigno.
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Castello di Montalto – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Italian Alps – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio, Italian Alps – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Lake Pistono
Lake Piston is a smaller lake and only offers a few trails to get close to the lake. We found this lake surrounded by more water, which also means more insects, so bug lotion or spray is recommended, they are voracious!
Five Lakes Hike – Chapel – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Trail Marker for Via Francigena – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Trail Marker for a Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Erick – Ivrea, Italy
This lake has one distinction, it is home to one of the Big Benches, which can be found throughout Piedmont in different areas and settings. Such projects make it fun and interesting to get out and find such silly objects. However, having said that, most are in areas that are out of the way and may present difficulty for some. But if you are able, the sights can be beautiful, so go for it!
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Castello di Montalto – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Patti on the Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Lake Pistono, Erick on the Big Bench – Ivrea, Italy
Lake San Michele
A smaller lake and closer to Ivrea is lake San Michele. Though we had some bother getting there and visited the Chapel of the Three Kings unintentionally, since the Italians with money just love to block public access to things, even roads, if they can do so.
Five Lakes Hike – Polveriera Park – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Polveriera Park – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Polveriera Park – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – San Michele Lake – Ivrea, Italy
So, we were unable to continue our travels using the Via Boaro, since it is blocked by a gate and a fancy house with video surveillance, so if you have the same idea – don’t bother. Instead, use the Via Cascinette and Via Lago San Michele roads to get to the lake. There is a lake park entrance that may be used, or you can continue on Via Lago S. Michele and see the lake once you round the bend in the road.
Five Lakes Hike – San Michele Lake – Ivrea, Italy
Churches And Chapels
Though not known for the churches or chapels, there are a few that can be visited in the area. We found the following when we continued our Five Lakes Hike the next day. The Sanctuary was open, but the chapel appears closed, perhaps for good.
Five Lakes Hike – Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Church of San Lorenzo the Martyr – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Chapel of the Three Kings – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – View from Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – View from Monte Stella Sanctuary – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Il Cigno
We made note of this restaurant on Lake Sirio when we were outbound headed for Lake Pistono and made plans to swing back around for lunch. It has amazing seating right along the shore of the lake with marvelous views of the Graian Alps.
Five Lakes Hike – Patti at Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Erick at Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
The food is good and prices are reasonable. We were here during the off-season, but one can easily imagine that it gets quite busy in the summer, especially on the weekends, so plan accordingly.
Five Lakes Hike – Patti’s Linguini with Octopus – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Erick’s Insalata Mista – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Five Lakes Hike – Erick’s Bonet – Ristorante Il Cigno, Lake Sirio – Ivrea, Italy
Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano
Not far from our hotel, Hotel 3T, along the Stata Stradale (SS26) is the Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano. We ate here one evening only because we did not want to venture from the hotel, who’s restaurant unfortunately was closed.
Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano – Inside – Ivrea, Italy
Ristorante Pizzeria da Romano – Pizza Margherita, Bufalina – Ivrea, Italy
Here is where you will find all the locals looking for excellent pizza at great prices. We ordered a salad, two pizzas, half liter of wine and water for around thirty Euros.
La Gustiera
Another good place to eat, but come early if you do not have reservations, is La Gustiera Osteria. Located on Via Quattro Martiri, La Gustiera offers a select menu every evening of authentic Piedmont cuisine, perhaps half fish and half meat, so something for everyone’s taste.
La Gustiera – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
La Gustiera – Inside – Ivrea, Italy
La Gustiera – Inside – Ivrea, Italy
La Gustiera – Spaghetti Bolognese and Linguini with Cherry Tomotoes and Olives – Ivrea, Italy
Trattoria Monferrato
Almost directly in the old city center on Via Gariglietti is the Trattoria Monferrato. Having trouble finding a place to eat elsewhere, we found a table free here on a Saturday just by luck.
Trattoria Monferrato – Outside and Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Trattoria Monferrato – Pork Filet and Potatoes – Ivrea, Italy
Diorite rock near Trattoria Monferrato – Ivrea, Italy
The food here was very good, a cross between home cooking and something made by a chef. The pork filet with gravy was delicious, along with a side of potatoes and some wine the meal was very enjoyable. Knowing the difficulty we had finding a place to eat, we shared our large table for six with a German couple from Frieburg and had a very entertaining conversation about them traveling through Italy on E-Bike.
Erick with Regina and Leo, who we met at the Trattoria Monferrato – Outside Caffe Torino, Piazza San Carlo – Turin, Italy
Our Hotel
We stayed at one hotel for the entire weekend on the north side of town, only to have more convenience leaving on our hikes.
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
Hotel 3T
A rather modern hotel with most amenities. The hotel staff can be a bit problematic on the weekends, since we had to ask a few times for towels and toilet paper. So, attention to detail is not a priority.
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
Hotel 3T – Breakfast pastries and cappuccino – Ivrea, Italy
Another drawback was the restaurant, which was closed for dinner, so we had to go every night, which can be annoying if you had a long and tiring hike. However, the hotel is clean and the bed and pillows were very comfortable, a big plus when you need a good night’s rest.
If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy
Getting There
This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.
Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy
Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy
The Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!
3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
3T Hotel – Our Room, 209 – Ivrea, Italy
The Town
The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy
There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy
Castle Saubauda
A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Sabaudo Castle – Ivrea, Italy
Ivrea Cathedral
Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
The Crypt
The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy
Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy
Restaurants
Moma
Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.
Moma Restaurant – Pork Filet with French Fries and Coleslaw – Ivrea, Italy
Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy
Well after a somewhat long hiatus in the States, we returned to Turin at the beginning of January. As we have been getting older, we have noticed that we have to take things in stride and perhaps not rigidly plan so much, you never know what life can throw at you, especially grandchildren!
Salad, Lobster in mustard sauce, cheese and fruit salad, all as an appetizer
French Prime Rib with fried carrots and onions
Continental breakfast
We flew Air France business class from RDU (Raleigh Durham, NC) to CDG (Charles de Gaulle, Paris, France). Not only do we find you get better bang for your points with Air France, the food is much better!
Though we are not a fan of CDG, it is better than flying in and out of JFK or some other domestic airport. We find they handle the entire passport entry and exit process a whole lot better than in the U.S. From Paris we took EasyJet to MXP (Milan, Italy), which is only a little over an hour. Though this carrier nickel and dimes you for every little thing, like some domestic carriers, it is still much cheaper than Air France’s HOP! flight to Turin.
The problem with going from Paris directly to Turin, Italy using air travel amounts to timing. The schedule for any flights leaving to Turin later leave you with either less than an hour to make your connection, which anyone knows who has traveled through CDG is almost an impossible task; or, waiting for one much later in the day. Then there is also the increased cost, which can be several hundred euros per person more expensive than flying into Milan. We therefore choose to fly into MXP and take the train back to Turin and saved almost $500.
Aside from the cold the city is more or less the way we have left it. Yes, there are public work projects in process; when we left via Po was more or less all dug up for city water and sewage line replacement. It appears they even replaced the tram lines that had to be removed, so it looks like the piazza and the street should be good for another fifty years.
Restaurants
Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant
One of our first places to eat was the chinese restaurant Nuovo Zhen Bao. There is no better way to break in the New Year than with a nice wine and a plate of chinese food.
Our first dish of Chinese food since being back, thank you Zhen Bao!
Patti enjoying her Chinese food
As already noted in past entries they have excellent chinese food that would bring any chinese restaurant in the States to shame, and it is very economical, two people can have soup, salad, egg roll, a main and secondi dish with half liter of wine, small bottle of water and coffee and sambuca for around $35.
Il Buongusto
This week we found ourselves wanting a quick bite to eat and wandered our way over to Il Buongusto, which happens to be right around the corner, so to speak.
Il Buongusto Restaurant – Patti – Tajarin al Ragu
Il Buongusto Restaurant – Patti – Tajarin al Ragu
They always offer a good dish of Tajarin, either in Ragu (meat sauce) or Sugo (red sauce). It is a special version of pasta made mainly in the Piedmont region, I cannot say that we have anything quite like it in the States. Of course, they offer other options and have a full line of daily specials, but it was cold out and we needed something that would warm us up as well. Again, two people can eat here for lunch for right around $30.
Trattoria D’Agata
Today for lunch we went to Trattoria D’Agata, another staple on our list of restaurants to visit when in Turin. The menu reflects its Sicilian roots and the food tastes as though it adheres to that tradition, at least based on my experience on that beautiful island.
Trattoria D’Agata Restaurant – Menu
Trattoria D’Agata Restaurant – Patti waiting for lunch
Trattoria D’Agata Restaurant – Erick enjoying his glass of wine
Sticking with tradition and shying away from their no doubt amazing pizze offerings, we stuck with a seafood theme for lunch. My dishes were a concentration in tuna, tuna polpetti and a main of tuna fish with red onion relish; while Patti preferred to go the route of Arancini with a Paccheri pasta with swordfish and eggplant.
Trattoria D’Agata Restaurant – Inside
Trattoria D’Agata Restaurant – Tuna Polpetti
Trattoria D’Agata Restaurant – Tuna with red onion relish
Trattoria D’Agata Restaurant – Paccheri with swordfish and eggplant
Trattoria D’Agata Restaurant – sambuca, espresso and sicilian grapa
Patti and the river Po
Unlike the other two restaurants that were previosly commented on, this one is a bit more expensive, perhaps twice as much. However, having said that, we can say that the portions are on the larger side, so if you order too much, like we always seem to do, there are always plenty of left-overs. Our total for lunch, after our two hour stay, was €67 for two persons.
Porto di Savona
If you are looking for something a bit more unique or special to taste, then Porto di Savona would be a good pick. Here, most entries are made in house, including their pasta.
Porto di Savona restaurant – Inside Decor – Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Turin
Porto di Savona restaurant – Inside Decor – Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Turin
Located on the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Porta di Savona has all of the Piedmont specials you might want for a nice dinner.
Porto di Savona restaurant – Patti ready to order – Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Turin
Turin at night, Christmas Decorations – via Po – January 2025
Turin at night – Piazza Vittorio Veneto – January 2025
Turin at night, Christmas Decorations – via Po – January 2025
The Tajarin is made in-house using the age old forty egg recipe, making the pasta that unique color of yellow. That along with the Castelmagno cheese that is generously sprinkled on the top, you are looking at your body’s weekly cholesterol intake in one dish.
Porto di Savona restaurant – Erick’s Braised Veal Tongue and Insalata Mista – Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Turin
Porto di Savona restaurant – Erick’s Tagarine with Castelmagno cheese – Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Turin
Porto di Savona restaurant – Patti’s Agnilotti al sugo – Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Turin
Porto di Savona restaurant – Patti’s Braised Veal Tongue and Insalata Mista – Piazza Vittorio Veneto, Turin
A bit more pricey than our usual picks, with the dishes seen above and a half liter of house red, the bill came to €62 for two people. But the food is absolutely delicious and worth every penny. Go early or book a reservation if you wish to go later, this restaurant gets full even during the early weekdays. Enjoy!
After somewhat of a hiatus, we are back for a bit in Turin. Several things required our attention at home and therefore we have been away longer than we would have liked.
Piazza San Carlo, Turin – 2024
In many respects the city is just like we left it last year, in some others, not so much. There are major public works projects going on, so there are some major thoroughfares that are closed and other scaffolding eye-sores to try and ignore. Aside from that, it is rather quiet, since most Italians have left for their August vacation.
Weather
We thought the weather in North Carolina was strange, being as wet as it has been before we left. But it appears to have followed us here as well.
Very bad thunderstorm with hail, via Plana – Turin – 2024
Though not unheard of, this is not the rainy season in Turin, thunderstorms are usually rare this time of year. This one popped up from nowhere and caused quite a scene. It also was severe enough to trash most of the vegetation, especially in our courtyard. My only hope is the sorrounding wine regions were spared.
Restaurants
For the month and a half that we will be here, we have visited or re-visited the following restaurants in our city.
Trattoria D’Agata
This restaurant has great food and decent house wine, if you like that with your lunch. The Chicken Cutlet is huge and very filling, so be careful what else you order with it. The Caponata is amazing, so that is a must order item, if you don’t you will regret it, there is nothing comparable in the States. The Arancini is also a must try!
Arancini – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Arancini from the inside – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Caponata – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Eggplant Parm – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
Chicken Cutlet – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin – 2024
At Home
We cook Italian and rather conservatively most evenings. A typical dish that is easy to make and tastes great, especially with tomatoes from Italy, is Pasta e Patate in olive sauce with Pecorino Romano DOP cheese sprinkled over it. Yum.
Dinner at Giovanni GIolitti – Pasta with olives – Turin – 2024
We left Turin early in the morning on the 5:50AM train, in order to catch the FrecciaRossa from Turin to Milan. Of course, due to the early hour, we used the Wetaxi Application and ordered a taxi for 12€ to take us to Porta Nuovo, the main train station in this part of the city.
Torino Train Station – Turin, Italy
Torino Train Station – Turin, Italy
Patti on the Freccia Rossa between Turin and Milan – Turin, Italy
Freccia Rossa to Venezia – Milan, Italy
Our connecting FrecciaRossa, took us from Milan to Venice Maestre, where we picked up our Austrian ÖBB train to Villach, Austria. Luckily, all of our connections, and there were four, worked without issue.
M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
An hour train north of Villach, Austria you can find the small health spa town of Bad Gastein. Though a shadow of its former self, when dignitaries and other luminaries used to visit for its waters and mountain air, it is still worth a visit, if not only for the aforementioned reasons.
View from Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Quiet, spa zone – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein
The town runs at a slower pace than other mountains towns we have visited. Perhaps it is more difficult to capture tourist monies with a waterfall and health resort as the primary attractions, as opposed to say a very large mountain or a large ski resort complex.
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the town center – Bad Gastein, Austria
There are parts of the town center that appear to be in eternal repair. Though there is work going on here and there, it does not appear to have progressed much in the last few years. The thermal water fountain building and the old Kurhotel of Austria appear permanently closed. Unfortunately, there are no signs posted explaining the reason, so we were just left to ponder what might have happened.
Bismark House – Bad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke – Bad Gastein, Austria
Franz Schubert denkmal – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lower waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotels
Hotel Salzburger Hof
We stayed at the Salzburger Hof, a very large hotel close to the train station with all the amenities. It appears to be one of the better kept establishments in Bad Gastein, with two pools, three restaurants and a health spa. Apparently host to Count von Bismark and other dignitaries, including many American personalities.
Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Flowers – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
The rooms are very spacious and well appointed. The hotel seems proud of its tradition of important guests, there are photographs of everyone who has visited hung throughout the hotel and in the rooms.
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Our room – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Our view – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Kaiser was here – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lobby – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Lobby – Hotel Salzburger Hof – Bad Gastein, Austria
Gasteiner Falls
The main attraction in the center of town now are the falls. The great Gasteiner Waterfalls are indeed impressive, especially after the storm that has just passed through this region of Europe. Since a video is worth a thousand words, here are a few.
It is easy enough to get a glimpse of the waterfalls by walking the main road through town and stopping at the bridge.
Town Center – Bad Gastein, Austria
Memorial – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Garmskarkogel mountain and Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Downstream – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Downstream waterfall – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Waterfall way – Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
After taking in their beauty from the bridge, there are also other vantage points from which the falls may be enjoyed. But, that requires a bit of climbing and some hiking, all of which can be done with modern sneakers, not equipment necessary.
Patti – Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Erick – Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper Bad Gastein Waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
The history of Gasteine – Bad Gastein, Austria
The waterfall way – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Looking down from the bridge – Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
Upper waterfall – Bad Gastein, Austria
There is a section above the falls where they were purposely redirected some years ago by a dam that was built by a member of the clergy. This forces all the current water down a single corridor within the rocks.
Hiking Trails
There are numerous trails for walking, hiking and biking around town. For our first day our we chose the one that visited the Upper Gastein Falls and then descended towards lower Bad Gastein.
Looking toward the M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
The M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the town center – Bad Gastein, Austria
Bad Gastein – Bad Gastein, Austria
The M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke and looking toward the M̦lltal valley РBad Gastein, Austria
Pfarrkircke clock tower – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Reitlpromenade – Bad Gastein, Austria
Restaurants
La Pizzeria Napoletana
A very small Italian pizzeria stuck in the back of a another building right next to the Gasteiner Falls is the La Pizzeria Napoletana.
La Pizzeria Napoletana – Bad Gastein, Austria
Their tomato and mozzarella pizza is thin and very tasty. This restaurant has a minimal menu of pizza, beer, soft drinks and some wine, there is little else to choose from if you are really hungry.
Pizza Tomato and Mozzerella – La Pizzeria Napoletana – Bad Gastein, Austria
The pizza is authentic, right down to its crust. The prices are very reasonable and emblematic of what you would expect in a small town or city in Italy.
Orania Stueberl Restaurant
A restaurant that is almost always open, it is a good go-to place when you have few if any options. The food is good, but rather predictable, but that could be said for the rest of the cuisine in this small town.
Entrance – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The Murmeltier – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
A salad and Gulash with Knödeln – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Ice cream with cream and chocolate sauce – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The interior is adorned with numerous sacrificial animals that were ostensibly killed locally and now inhabit this restaurant’s walls. I guess I never understood if this practice was supposed to be in honor of the animal that was killed, or in spite of it. In any case, it appears a bit overdone.
The Ritz restaurant – Salzburger Hof Hotel – Bad Gastein, Austria
Inside – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
The bar – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Dead animals on walls – Orania Stüberl – Bad Gastein, Austria
Perhaps one of the best times to visit Turin is in the spring. The wind is still blowing from the north, the rivers are full, the trees are in bloom and the swallows and swifts are returning from their long winter stay in Africa. We live close to the river and found you do not need insecticide here, just a healthy population of these birds and you will rarely be bitten.
Springtime – River Po – Turin, Italy
A great time to walk the city and visit its many restaurants and cafes as well as the river Po and Valentino Park. On weekends and holidays there is always activity on the river.
Restaurants
For my readers, some secrets that will help you beat the tourist lines in Turin at the other places and make your stomach very happy.
Il Buongusto
One of our new favorites and right around the corner from our apartment at via Alfonso Bonafous is the local secret, Il Buongusto. Definitely not for tourists, in fact I would encourage only those seeking a Piedmontese experience to drop in. Everything is fresh and made in the kitchen, which is actually open to the restaurant.
IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Be patient, gastronomy takes time and preparation. If you want to be in and out, select something like a salad and water, or frankly go to a fast food place on via Po. Good food takes time and this little restaurant gets very busy. When all else fails, use your Grissini fishing rod to reel in your waitress or waiter for more drinks.
Erick with Fishing Pole Grissini Torinesi – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
The food is very good, the prices are reasonable and the wine list satisfactory, so you can always select a reasonably good wine to keep you busy while waiting. The local house selection includes Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, or Barolo by the glass, which suffice nicely.
Inside – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Kitchen – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Speaking of which, if you really love tomatoes, order the Bruschetta. For the price you get about seven large pieces of bread covered with garlic infused tomatoes and basil, with an olive oil drizzle. Yum.
Bruschetta – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Our food was cooked perfectly, the spaghetti sauce here is uncomplicated and delicious, the cook preferring the amazing Italian tomatoes to tell their own story. I love Italian pasta, um.
Agnolotti with Parmigiano – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Orecchiette with Sausage – IL Buongusto – Turin, Italy
Lunch for (2) two: 30+ to 40+€
La Prosciutteria
On a lark and after a long walk through the Valentino Park and along the other side of the river, we tried La Prosciutteria on Piazza Vittorio Veneto and via Alfonso Bonafous.
Entrance – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
We ordered water, wine, a bruschetta and a charcuterie board. The bruschetta was good, the little olives they used were very tasty.
Bread, Bruschetta and Brunello – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Though I am not a meat eater by nature, the charcuterie here is quite good, especially the Tuscan cheese selections. I would suggest trying the cheeses first au natural, many are exceptional and have delicate flavors. Smearing the honey they provide I found masked their flavors, since none were blue cheeses and were not very strong. The honey by itself was delicious and would be great with a Roquefort, a Blue or similar cheese, but not much with the ones we were given.
Charcuterie Board – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Back Wall – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
Esoteric Inside – La Prosciutteria – Turin, Italy
In the end our bill was a bit on the high side, but not bad for a place on the Piazza Vittoria Veneto. Below is an example of what you can expect for two people. The two glasses of wine being the most expensive, similar to what you would find in the States now (it was never like this before, some prices are crazy, though I would say most glasses of local wines are frequently around 4-5€).
Il Konto (Our Bill) – La Prosciutteria – Turin – April 2023
Surrounded on the three sides, by what are generally called the Hills of Piedmont (for which Superga Hill is one), sits the town of Chieri. A town that goes back to ancient times, due to the richness of the area and the Po river valley.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking west toward Pino Torinese
From Turin it is easy to get to Chieri. One can either take a bus or take the Sfm1 train from Porta Susa, which runs about every thirty minutes, it is about a thirty minute ride to Chieri and the last stop for this train.
Chieri – Patti at the Tandem Bar on Vittorio Emanuele II
The main pedestrian way, via Vittorio Emanuele II, is a short walk from the train station and has numerous cafes and bars, here you can purchase a coffee or other drink, before you explore this quaint little town.
Town Of A Hundred Towers
During the early middle ages, the town once had numerous towers, especially built into the town wall, which were erected (like in many other towns in Italy) as defensive structures. Most of these were destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa’s army when they laid waste to the town in 1154. However, a few still remain, one of which can be seen below.
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking south and one of the remaining towers
Chieri – Overlook from the Church of Sant Giorgio – Looking southeast
Church of Sant Giorgio
This is the highest point and from here you can get a commanding view of the town, as seen in the two photographs above and the beginning photograph.
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio on the hill
Chieri – Church of Sant Giorgio tunnel to overlook
Other than that, there’s not much else to do in Chieri, except perhaps amble through its quiet streets and perhaps do some shopping. Here is a short slide show of some of the other things you can see while here.
Chieri – Tiny Side Street
Chieri – via Vittorio Emanuele II and the Arco Trionfale
Chieri – Church Don Bosco
Chieri – Piazza Mazzini and the Church of Sant Guglielmo
Chieri – Belltower from pathway below the Church of Sant Giorgio
Chieri – Arco Trionfale di Chieri – from Piazza Umberto
Chieri – Torre campanaria del Duomo di Chieri
Chieri – pedestrian way Vittorio Emanuele II
Chieri – small alleyway
Chieri – Piazza Cavour and the Church Ss Nomini Iesi Ac Sanctis Bernardino Et Rocho
Restaurants
With limited time we were only able to visit one restaurant while here, though several that came up on our search were not open until the evening. However, you will find the choice below to be exceptionally good, if and when you have the chance to visit this charming little town in Piedmont.
Trattoria della Erbe
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe
This trattoria sits on the corner of the Piazza Umberto I and via San Domenico, is fairly non-descript, but the food is authentic Sardinian and quite good.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Caponata Siciliana
The menu changes daily and is posted on both a board outside and on the window next to the entrance. The menu is restrictive, as for most small establishments like this one, but everything we ordered was quite tasty and delicious. We started with some antipasti, a Caponata Siciliana, served with eggplant, onion, peppers, green olives and other goodies, not hot, but just warmed a bit. A slight tinge of vinegar mixed with the tomato based sauce was just right to get the taste buds to pucker for more. Our mains, or primis, came out a short time after and included the Levantine di Mare for Patti and for me, the Ravioli Sardi. Both were delicious and portioned correctly, just enough to leave a little room for dessert!
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Levantina di Mare
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Ravioli Sardi
The dessert was actually unexpectedly delicious and savory. A Sardinian Seada or Seadas, that can only be explained as a kind of dough pocket filled with assorted cheese, heated and served with honey. The sweetness of the honey and the saltiness of the cheese make for an unexpectedly tasty treat.
Chieri – Trattoria delle Erbe – Seada or Seadas
Top that off later with a caffè and Sambuca (to make caffè corretto of course) and you have the culmination of the great lunch.
All in all, Chieri makes a great day trip, if only just to walk around and soak up its quiet stillness, after being in Turin for a few weeks. If only to experience some great Sardinian food at this trattoria!
We have been back in Turin for about a week and had to start knocking restaurants off of our list, at least those that we always wanted to visit. After our recent trip to Greece, we decided we had had enough of eating in and it was time to start eating out again. The following are a few special ones we feel we should mention.
Disclaimer:Â If you are coming from the US, please keep in mind portion sizes in Italy and perhaps most of Europe for that matter, are not like in the States. In Italy there is always Antipasti, a Primi and then a Secondi for those who need more.
La Piola di Alfredo
When in Piedmont and especially Turin, if you see the word Piola in the name of a restaurant, you are more than likely going to experience some really good local food. You may think of the word Piola synonymous with Trattoria.
La Piola di Alfredo – Turin
The restaurant itself is quietly unassuming and nondescript. The owners and help speak no English, so it is best if you learn at least a little Italian (or your favorite translation application, good luck), or at the very minimum point to what you want.
Pollo Carpione with Vinegar Onions and Tomato Salad
Agnolotti alla Ragu
My wife an I were just interested in something to drink and a simple lunch. Though the bottled Nebbiolo wine by the glass ran about €5/glass and was very good, the cheaper alternative was the Vino Sfuso, or house bulk wine, which can be purchased for €2/glass or €10/Liter and is probably very good (I will make a point of it to try it next time).
Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant
We have written about Nuovo Zhen Bao before and it has become one of our go-to places for Chinese food. We have tried other Chinese restaurants throughout Turin, but none have come close to the delicious salads (especially the dressing on the Insalata Cinese), spring rolls and main courses as does this restaurant. The service is usually first rate and they normally have plenty of help on hand.
They have both outside and inside dining, as well as an excellent lunch (Pranzo) menu for only €10, which includes a bottle of water, appetizer, first and second courses.
Vietnamese Rolls
Chinese Salad
Vegetables Rice
Pork with Onions
Chicken with Potatoes
My Missing Tiramisu
Stimonio
A bistro that serves naturally and bio friendly items from its menu. They have several items, such as sweet and vegan pancakes, as well as other bio- and earth-friendly choices.
Stimonio Bistro
We chose the tuna salad, so they are not exclusively vegan. I had preferred a more complete Piemontese menu, but they do offer a plethora of smoothies and other health friendly items from which to chose. They do not have a house wine or bulk wine (vino sfuso), so wine by the glass can be a bit expensive for Italy at €5/glass (I normally wouldn’t mind, but for that price it isn’t that good).
Ristorante L’Agrofoglio
Much to our dismay, we must announce the closure of the L’Agrofoglio Ristorante and Piola. We had reported on their very good menu and excellent wine cellar, only to be saddened by their closure when we arrived back in Turin early this year. A major loss, I will never forget the unbelievable Barolo that we enjoyed there during our Sunday lunch in July of 2021. A wine, I subsequently tried to order a few months later, only to be told it was no longer available. I lamented of course. (We tried the 2013, which sadly, wasn’t quite the same).
