We have been back in Turin for about a week and had to start knocking restaurants off of our list, at least those that we always wanted to visit. After our recent trip to Greece, we decided we had had enough of eating in and it was time to start eating out again. The following are a few special ones we feel we should mention.
Disclaimer: If you are coming from the US, please keep in mind portion sizes in Italy and perhaps most of Europe for that matter, are not like in the States. In Italy there is always Antipasti, a Primi and then a Secondi for those who need more.
La Piola di Alfredo
When in Piedmont and especially Turin, if you see the word Piola in the name of a restaurant, you are more than likely going to experience some really good local food. You may think of the word Piola synonymous with Trattoria.
La Piola di Alfredo – Turin
The restaurant itself is quietly unassuming and nondescript. The owners and help speak no English, so it is best if you learn at least a little Italian (or your favorite translation application, good luck), or at the very minimum point to what you want.
Pollo Carpione with Vinegar Onions and Tomato Salad
Agnolotti alla Ragu
My wife an I were just interested in something to drink and a simple lunch. Though the bottled Nebbiolo wine by the glass ran about €5/glass and was very good, the cheaper alternative was the Vino Sfuso, or house bulk wine, which can be purchased for €2/glass or €10/Liter and is probably very good (I will make a point of it to try it next time).
Nuovo Zhen Bao Chinese Restaurant
We have written about Nuovo Zhen Bao before and it has become one of our go-to places for Chinese food. We have tried other Chinese restaurants throughout Turin, but none have come close to the delicious salads (especially the dressing on the Insalata Cinese), spring rolls and main courses as does this restaurant. The service is usually first rate and they normally have plenty of help on hand.
They have both outside and inside dining, as well as an excellent lunch (Pranzo) menu for only €10, which includes a bottle of water, appetizer, first and second courses.
Vietnamese Rolls
Chinese Salad
Vegetables Rice
Pork with Onions
Chicken with Potatoes
My Missing Tiramisu
Stimonio
A bistro that serves naturally and bio friendly items from its menu. They have several items, such as sweet and vegan pancakes, as well as other bio- and earth-friendly choices.
Stimonio Bistro
We chose the tuna salad, so they are not exclusively vegan. I had preferred a more complete Piemontese menu, but they do offer a plethora of smoothies and other health friendly items from which to chose. They do not have a house wine or bulk wine (vino sfuso), so wine by the glass can be a bit expensive for Italy at €5/glass (I normally wouldn’t mind, but for that price it isn’t that good).
Ristorante L’Agrofoglio
Much to our dismay, we must announce the closure of the L’Agrofoglio Ristorante and Piola. We had reported on their very good menu and excellent wine cellar, only to be saddened by their closure when we arrived back in Turin early this year. A major loss, I will never forget the unbelievable Barolo that we enjoyed there during our Sunday lunch in July of 2021. A wine, I subsequently tried to order a few months later, only to be told it was no longer available. I lamented of course. (We tried the 2013, which sadly, wasn’t quite the same).
A short drive, just outside Torre Pellice, is the small commune of Angrogna. Situated high up on the hill. Overlooking Torre Pellice, Angrogna commands a very nice view of the valley floor and hides a local secret in the form of a tiny underground chapel by a mostly unknown religious sect.
The Waldensians
The Waldensians were and are a pre-reformation sect that was extremely persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church as heretical. Therefore, they had to take their religious practices in many places underground, in order to escape discrimination, capture, torture and in many cases death. In Angrogna you will find one such hide out, a small cave on a mountainside used as a chapel. Here members would secretly meet in order to carry out their many religious practices without the notice of the church or local onlookers.
The Geology Close To The Waldensian Chapel – Craggy And Full Of Boulders
The Waldensian Chapel
The cave is a poor collection of boulders left by the ice age that apparently produced a cave structure suitable enough for such practices. It is difficult to find, if they were not signs and an entrance stairway to its opening. Even then, the entrance is wet, a very tight fit for most present individuals, and thus requires a degree climbing to actually reach the inner chamber.
Direction To The Waldensian Chapel – Ghieisa D’La Tana
Trail Sign To The Waldensian Chapel
Modern Sign For The Waldensian Church
Entrance To The Waldensian Chapel
Sam, Our Host, Walking Down The Stairs To The Waldensian Chapel
The Waldensian Chapel Entrance
The Waldensian Chapel Inner Cave From Entrance
The Waldensian Chapel – Light From Above
The Waldensian Chapel – The Chapel Altar Lit By A Sunbeam
The Waldensian Chapel – Chapel Altar And Inside – Using A Flash
The Waldensian Chapel – The Altar – Using A Flash
The inner chamber is a small, wet and very dark room about five by ten meters. It includes a small makeshift altar, but nothing else. In its day, it must have been something to experience during a mass.
The School Of Odin-Bertot
Very close by and less than a few hundred meter walk from the hidden chapel, is the School of Odin-Bertot.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Outside View of the School Room Entrance
Reminiscent of one room school houses in many other rural areas, this one specifically served the mountain people of the area. Since the above link explains all, a few more photographs of the interior and the museum are all that’s in order at this point.
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – School House Room
Museum The School Of Odin-Bertot – Another View Of The School House Room
How To Get There
There are several ways to get there, either via the School of Odin, or by the parking area further away. Since maps are worth a thousands words, here are two that you will find once there, but they also show the overall area so you can use this with what ever map, app or device you have to cross reference your way there.
Map For The Waldensian Church And School Of Odin
Local Map Of Historic Sites
Directions
Between Torre Pellice and Luserna San Giovanni you should find road 161. At the traffic circle, take the road towards Angrogna. You should also see signs for the Guieiza d’la Tana, the Chabas and the Vaccera. Keep following road to the main town square, then continue for about two kilometers and you will arrive in the hamlet of Serre. Turn right, you should see the beginning of the path and the signs “Chanforan” and “Odin”. Walk the path, following the sign for Ghieisa D’La Tana. You will eventually come to a wooden railing with the words Entrata on it, walk down the steps, you have arrived at the temple.
For some time, my wife Patti has been wanting for us to visit her friends in Malpertus. Thankfully with Covid restrictions waning, hopefully along with the virus itself, we finally committed to visiting them this week. In order to get there, we had to take the train from Turin’s Porta Susa terminal, instead of our customary train station, Porta Nuovo. Once on the train, the trip length was about forty-five minutes, which included about eight stops along the way.
Pinerolo appeared to be fairly quiet and we had noticed most people were preoccupied with the Saturday market place, that was taking place in the main square from the train station. We took little notice of this and continued directly down the main street, via Del Duomo, until we found a suitable place to eat.
Restaurants
Trattobar Kreuzberg
We initially stopped at a pizza place, but they apparently only took orders inside. So, after a quick reconnaissance further up the street we found a trattoria called Trattobar Kreuzberg.
TrattoBar Kreuzberg – Santa Vittoria with Chocolate – Pinerolo
Though the food was very good and for a fair price, the service, even for Italian standards, was very slow. It took us all of three hours to complete our lunch, and we could tell several other clients sitting at tables next to use were not happy either, and they were Italian. So if you are in a hurry, either get seating inside or by the entrance (of course in the hope they will see and not forget you) and not out in the umbrella piazza annex, where we were seated.
Borgata Malpertus
Our hosts live in a very small hamlet called a Borgata. It’s actually just a string of small stone houses collected neatly on the hillside of the Pellice River Valley.
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
15 Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
The rest of the Borgata is contained within a few roads or alleys, through which anyone can amble at their leisure. There are few residents here and some of the structures are in dire need of repair and restoration.
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Repairs needed – Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Borgata Malpertus – Pellice River Valley
Our host, hostess and their son are great and they have done an amazing job of renovating their own place.
Lisa and Sam Chiodo – Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus – Malpertus
Their son Luca – Renovating Italy at Borgata Malpertus – Malpertus
Venturing Out A Bit
Taking a short walk from the Borgata and a stone’s throw away is Napolean’s Bridge. Of course, Napolean did not build, nor even cross the Pellice River using this bridge. It was built at least a hundred years before he was even born and it is believed that his army never ventured down the valley that far, if in this valley at all.
Pellice River – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
From the Pellice River – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Pellice River – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Pellice River – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Older Buildings (circa 1600s) – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Italian Farm Fencing – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
Patti and mountians – Napolean’s Bridge – Pellice River Valley
However, it is a nice walk and an improbable feature of the valley, since it appears to have been built near no know important structure, castle or fortress, yet obviously took a tremendous amount of work to complete.
Flowers – Malpertus
Flowers – Malpertus
Flowers – Malpertus
Flowers – Malpertus
Flowers – Malpertus
Along the way there are an amazing assortment of flowers and as with other parts of Italy, the fields and pastures are abuzz with this sound of bees and the chirping calls of crickets. So if you are looking for a place for some peace of mind, this might be an appropriate place for you.
Yesterday I had the occasion for a relaxing ride on my bike to Chieri and then Pecetto, both of which sit behind the hills of the Borgo Po from Turin. Although I do not normally post about my riding exploits on my blog, it is spring and this particular ride just struck me as something that others might enjoy, if given the chance.
The road to Chieri
Once outside Turin and out of Moncalieri, it is a nice slow incline into Chieri on SP122 where one can keep a moderate pace until you reach the outskirts of the town. Though I did not enter the town directly and take pictures, it is your typical Italian town connected by one State and a few Local roads. The bucolic countryside reminds me of my youth and where I grew up and the views are full of poppies, which apparently are in season.
There are poppies everywhere
Poppies in the fields
Riding out from Chieri the roads get a bit more technical and there are a few modest climbs along the way, but nothing difficult for anyone in shape.
Leaving Chieri heading towards Pecetto
Finally, one last photograph going into Pecetto, where the climbs for this particular ride stop and a slow descent into Moncalieri begins.
Directions to Pecetto
The climb into Pecetto is a bit long and about six or seven percent, so if you do not have a Garmin or similar device, you may want to prepare yourself. All in all, a very satisfying ride. Plenty of exercise, the roads are more or less in good condition, and the views are just fantastic.
Just a Garmin glimpse up to the point of descending into Moncalieri
If you ever get a chance to cycle Italy, and in particular the hills around Turin, do not pass it up. Though some roads can be a bit busy, they are no more so than in many parts of the States. So go out and enjoy, Ciao..!
Usually when visiting one of Italy’s best kept secret cities, you would think that there wouldn’t be much to do for the outdoors enthusiast. But nothing could be further from the truth. Turin has a wealth of parks sprinkled throughout the city. Most are for casual pleasure, walking the dog, strolling the baby carriage or just a good jog.
The view from the Borgo Po, Corso Moncalieri, Turin
However, just a short mile and a quarter walk from our apartment in Turin is the entrance to Giacomo Leopardi Park. Here one can find a real hiking adventure, if you are so inclined.
Giacomo Leopardi Park
Once accessible via car, it is now only open to the public via the pedestrian access and can be entered by casual walkers, hikers and any cyclists willing to dare its steep slopes.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – Entrance
The park still maintains a roadway that may be walked, but for the more adventurous, there are several hiking trails that take a more direct route upwards.
Giacomo Leopardi Park, Turin – The Trails
Our initial thoughts were to make the entire hike up to Mount Eremo, visiting the Parco di San Vito along the way. However, Alltrails Pro, the portable phone application we use, gives only one value, instead of a range, for the length of time it might take you to reach your goal, which of course may not fit into your body’s aerobic or fitness calculus. So you may want to add additional time to any of the ‘moderated accepted hikes’, in order to account for any stops, water or photography breaks.
Hiking the road
Some stairs to hike
The hiking trail is well signed
Patti on the trail
Again, the trail is well signed
The link between this park and the next one, Parco di San Vito, entails some roads and real hiking.
San Vito Park
You will find the Parco di San Vito about a third of the way up to the Colle della Maddalena, or Mount Maddalena.
San Vito Park
A view of the city from San Vito Park
One of the amazing things about Turin, and Italy in general, is there willingness to not poison everything. Unlike America, they do not run out and get a can of weed killer or herbicide when something springs up that does not look like a sanctioned type of grass. Hence, the fields at the park actually have many types of wild flowers, bees and crickets! So do not expect dead silence when hiking here, like you would in most city parks in America.
After this park, we hiked a bit further up the mountain towards a small picnic area located on the map. Our plans after two hours of hiking modified somewhat, since at this point we were only halfway to our original destination.
The trail above San Vito
Patti hiking the trail above San Vito
Patti on the trail above San Vito, wild flowers are everywhere
The trails up through this stretch of woods were a bit more undeveloped and natural, the floor of the woods covered with different flowers.
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flower at picnic area Bert
Flowers in picnic area Bert
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
Flowers hiking Turin and Parc di San Vito
The hike through the woods continued for about another three quarters of a mile or so, and we were thinking of modifying our plans for the day.
Picnic Area Bert
After coming off the trail and turning around a bit on Quadriva Raby, you may head back and get back on the trail from Cascina Natura Pro Natura. A small picnic area on the side of the hill with a small field, some facilities if you are inclined and a picnic bench for lunch, or just a drink of water and a cliff bar.
Hiking the road up to Cascina Bert
The road up to the picnic area
Picnic area – Pro Natura Torino – Cascina Bert
The trail head down is located just to the left of that last picnic bench above. A marker can be found on the tree. However, if you miss this, there are signs and a map by the parking lot and buildings that are over to the right.
Bird Song and Fifteen Seconds of Calm
This is actually an amazing hike and you will find yourself stopping frequently just to enjoy the quiet and being out of the city for some respite.
Patti on a city stairwell in the Borgo Po area
Upon returning to Turin after about three and a half hours of hiking bliss, we took some shortcuts and discovered to what extreme Turin is willing to let some things go natural. Just goes to show, without humans around just how fast nature is willing to reassert itself.
For those wanting and willing to see the Sacra di San Michele and experience this great church and its views, one must hike the three or so kilometers and one kilometer ascent in order to really enjoy what the builders had accomplished here. Not only is it a feat of Middle-Ages engineering and stubbornness, its shear existence defies rationality, and so may I add hiking up to it. Well maybe not exactly, but you should be prepared. We saw many individuals when we were descending wearing the wrong type of shoes, etc. More on that later.
Sant’ Ambrogio – Getting There
A thirty three minute train ride from Turin’s train station Porta Nuova will get you to Sant’ Ambrogio and the beginning of your climb. Let me add, before we begin, that you may drive up to the church; but then you would be among the majority of people there and just mere tourists.
The train station – San Ambrogio
The train station is spartan and leaves you off on track one to enter this small town or hamlet directly. Returning you will have to find the stairwell to the right of the train station and walk under the tracks.
First sight of Sacra di San Michele from train station – Sant Ambrogio
Welcome Sign – Sant Ambrogio
Hiking Trail Signs – Sant Ambrogio
Sacra di San Michele from inside the town – Sant Ambrogio
A sleepy town on Pasquetta (day after Easter) – Sant Ambrogio
A view from the Church of Saint Giovanni Vincenzo – Sant Ambrogio
The trail starts and the Church of Saint Roch – Sant Ambrogio
Follow the signs for two hours – Sant Ambrogio
We arrived the day after Easter Sunday, or as the remembrance in Italy has it for Roman Catholics, Pasquetta [1]Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it … Continue reading The town was more or less empty, so our ideas about a quick climb up and back and an early lunch soon vanished.
On the way up, the rooftops of the town – Sant Ambrogio
The walk through the town was short and without incident, in fact, we were mostly accompanied by the individuals who left the train with us, residents of the town having already left for the long weekend or enjoying amenities inside and their extra day off.
Parco Naturale Orsiera – Sentiero Trail 502
Using the Sentiero Trail 502, or TOS 502, we quickly left the town and started our ascent up the most north-eastern mountain or hill of the Parco Naturale Orsiera. An almost one kilometer ascent for three kilometers with slopes ranging in steepness of three to twenty percent, and I would conjecture most were in the double digits.
This 3 km rises 1000 meters and takes about 1 and a half to 2 hours to hike – Trail Map
The trail was for the most part cobbled with round and larger stones, some which have a remarkable green color, are shiny and very slippery. Proper shoes are important, though it is possible to navigate the trail with tennis shoes or sneakers.
A welcoming sign, this is the right trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The Trail has Cobble and other Stones all the way up – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti navigating the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Patti on another turn – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio Panorama – Sentiero Trail 502
At a higher elevation, overview of Sant Ambrogio – Sentiero Trail 502
Sant Ambrogio from Sentiero Trail 502
Patti still climbing – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
The flowers on the trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Coming to first ending of trail – Sentiero Trail 502
Upon exiting the trail at a collection of houses, and an interim point in the hike, you will find a large commemorative stone.
Commemoration Wheel 2000 – Sentiero Trail 502
Then you will make a hairpin turn and look up, only to see that your hike up is STILL NOT OVER!
Still a long way up to go – Sentiero Trail 502
Checking the signs indicate approximately another kilometer to hike, which took us about twenty minutes.
Trail Sign, another .8 km to go – Sentiero Trail 502
After the last more modest climb you will walk onto a road, where all the other tourists are walking into from the parking lot. The attraction has a large sign explaining the layout of the church and its grounds.
Sign at entry to Sacra di San Michele
Sacra di San Michele
Once near the church of Sacra di San Michele, the magnificent views are apparent. With its perch high on a rocky crag, the church has a commanding view of the valley below.
Panorama before church at end of trail
Walking up to the church you will find a small building to the right that sells postcards, other tourist paraphernalia and entrance tickets. Once purchased, a turnstile to the left has a QR code reader that will let you enter, then you must start climbing stairs, an unwelcome sign after our long journey.
Tickets for Two – Sacra di San Michele – Sant Ambrogio
Stairs inside – Sacra di San Michele
More stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Erick with Covid mask on ascending more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
Again more stairs – Sacra di San Michele
The remainder of our visit consisted of just enjoying the church and the beautiful views. My wife chose this day because the weather promised to be wonderful, we were not disappointed, it was sunny and in the low 60°s Fahrenheit, perfect for hiking.
Finally, the entry – Sacra di San Michele
Mosaics on walls – Sacra di San Michele
The main altar – Sacra di San Michele
Commemoration of the Crucifixion – Sacra di San Michele
Inside the church – Sacra di San Michele
Portraits – Sacra di San Michele
Large Fresco – Sacra di San Michele
Altar – Sacra di San Michele
Spectacular views, by the entrance of the church doors – Sacra di San Michele
Erick and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The end of the valley and a view toward Turin
The Cottian Alps and the valley floor looking towards Susa, taken by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
Patti and a view of the Cottian Alps by the church entrance – Sacra di San Michele
The Susa Valley and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Looking across the valley from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
The ruins and Cottian Alps from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
More ruins and alpine foothills from behind the church – Sacra di San Michele
Leaving we took our last look up at the great church and descended along the more difficult trail, due to its increase in steepness, it promised to cut some time off our descent, which it did.
Going down is a bit more treacherous and only 2.5 km, but still takes about 1 and a half hours to hike – Trail Map
However, the first part of this trail is VERY steep and not for anyone ill-prepared or wearing the wrong hiking apparel, so caution! We were actually having second thoughts until we realized it was more difficult to go back up, then to press on and continue downward.
A view of the church descending – Sacra di San Michele
We arrived back in Sant’ Ambrogio almost five hours later, hungry and fairly tired from our experience. Once on the train, we relaxed and started to compare which part of our legs hurt more. However, we were both happy we were able to meet our sacred vertical pilgrimage with a great sense of accomplishment. It was our first big hike of the season, hopefully not our last and if anyone is thinking of doing this or a similar hike, keep the following in mind, we will next time.
Prepare for your hike, research the route and understand how technical it is
Bring a water bottle, the trail has two or three places to refill, this is especially important
Bring lunch or something to eat, there is nothing above except some vending by the ticket counter, but do not count on that
Wear the correct clothing (light and layered) and shoes, hiking shoes would be preferred but thick soled tennis shoes or sneakers will do
Pace yourself, unless you are young be mindful of your body and do not over-exert, you do not want to get into medical trouble on that trail, it will take some time for them to get to you
Go in good weather, unless it’s your intent as an experienced hikers not to
And last but not least.., enjoy yourself, there are amazing things to see and hear on the trail, the flowers and birds are in abundance.
Also called, Lunedì dell’ Angelo, which is meant to remember the women of the sepulcher, including Mary Magdalene, who were comforted by an angel when they returned to Jesus’ tomb and found it empty.
Tucked along the eastern bank of the River Po and within the confines of the Metropolitan City of Turin sits Moncalieri. No more than a fifteen minute bike ride for me down the Corso Moncalieri from our apartment in Turin, it took us a twenty minute walk to the train station, followed by a twenty-five minute train ride, with a change in Lingotto. Of course, there are other options, but none that we could take conveniently from where we live in Turin.
Tickets for Two – Moncalieri – Turin
Moncalieri – The Town
A quick hop off the train and you may bump into the weekly market, if you travel there on the weekend. This is the traditional market that most places in Italy entertain at least once a week, so that locals can buy everything from household goods, cheap everyday things like sponges, to more exotica like gold coins and older things, some would like to call antiques.
Train station – Moncalieri, Turin
Once you have left the train station and navigated the small Borgo Navile, where the market is held, you will find the center of town by walking the via San Martino.
Municipal Building – Moncalieri, Turin
Via S. Martino – Moncalieri – Turin
Church overpass of street – Moncalieri, Turin
Piazza VIttorio Emanuele II – Moncalieri Center – Turin
At the end of this short journey you will find the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II[1]Named after the King of the same name, the castle of Moncalieri was his favorite summer retreat, the town’s main fountain and the Comune Building for Moncalieri. The significance of the Roman God Neptune is unclear, other than he was the Roman God of Fresh Water and the Sea, and that the fountain was most likely the main source of water before indoor plumbing for the town’s people.
Neptune Statue – Comune Building in Moncalieri Center – Turin
Castello Reale di Moncalieri
A must see when visiting here is the large and private Castle Real of Moncalieri. For a modest fee you can enter the castle, which experienced a fire in 2008[2]The fire destroyed several rooms on the upper floor and was contained, but most of the damaged was just contained and never renovated., and take the guided tour, which is only in Italian. Fear not, there are enough references in the story for most people to follow and our tour guide did speak english and filled us in while walking on the more important points.
Garden and View – Castle of Moncalieri – Moncalieri, Turin
Garden – Castle of Moncaliere – Moncalieri, Turin
Castello Reale – Moncalieri, Turin
Restaurants
Osteria e Gastronomia
Tucked between the UniCredit Bank and an apartment building off the beginning of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II is a very good restaurant, the Osteria e Gastronomia. It was already lunch time, so we grabbed a small two person table right in the alleyway and were immediately greated by our hosts. A quick view of the menu and we were ready for some delicious Piemontese food.
Osteria e Gastronomia – Moncalieri,Turin
I ordered the Agnolotti del plin tradizionali con sugo d’arrosto, a typical Piedmont dish of very tiny ravioli stuffed with meat in a meat sauce, very tasty! It doesn’t look like much, but is actually very filling. Along with some bread, a glass of Nebbiollo alla spina, and water, how can you go wrong for lunch?
Agnolotti del plin tradizionali con sugo d’arrosto
Patti ordered the Agnolotti con salsiccia di Bra e porri con crema di parmigiano e guanciale croccante, which are larger ravioli made with sausage from Bra and leeks, topped with Bacon. A little Parmesan and you have a great lunch.
Agnolotti con salsiccia di Bra e porri con crema di parmigiano e guanciale croccante
Well, we hope you enjoyed our adventure to Moncalieri, because we did and were actually surprised. Though it took longer to get there than we had originally hoped, it wasn’t all that bad and definitely worth the trip, if only for the food!
Well we are finally back in Turin and enjoying the weather, food and getting our lives back together. Our first week consisted of maintenance, paying bills and getting some chores done, typical things that have to be done after being away so long. So for our first short entry, a small video clip on picking up a roasted chicken at our favorite place, Girarrosti Santa Rita, located across the river Po, next to the Chiesa Parrocchiale della Gran Madre di Dio. This is a great place for picking up a roasted chicken with potatoes, then bring it back to your apartment or hotel room and enjoy. Though the price has gone up to about 10€, from its former price of about 7€, we still think it’s a great buy, especially when you are starving and do not want to cook. Enjoy!
Restaurants
Trattoria D’Agata
One on our way to purchase plumbing supplies, to fix our bathroom drain which had gone bad in our absence, we were hungry for Pizza. Having already visited Pizzium on via Eusebio Bava, we decided to try Trattoria D’Agata across the street and were not disappointed. Patti had the Taleggio e Funghi pizza, with Taleggio a local cheese, tomatoes, Fiordilatte (cow’s milk mozzarella) and mushrooms; and I had the Napoli, with tomatoes, Fiordilatte, oregano and Acciughe (Anchoivies).
Front of Trattoria D’Agata
Inside Trattoria D’Agata
Inside Trattoria D’Agata
Outside Seating Trattoria D’Agata
Pizza Napoli – Trattoria D’Agata
Pizza Taleggio (cheese) and Mushrooms – Trattoria D’Agata
Not to make light of the pandemic, but we have shaken off the disease for now and are finally back in Turin after nine long months of rest and relaxation in North Carolina. Having gotten vaccinated some time ago, we booked a non-Covid flight and hoped for the best.
Leaving the States
Our flight was full and everyone thankfully wore masks. It did however leave an hour late, because there are just some people in this world who either cannot read directions, or just live in the own alternative reality. So, it took an hour out our lives so that the crew could find their bags and leave them behind.
So, some advice: If you cannot, or simple do not want to follow directions, please DON’T TRAVEL!
The train from the airport to Milan was about half full and it appeared that things in Italy were getting back to normal.
Standing on the platform at the airport
However, when we reached Milano Centrale, we discovered that this big city still suffers from post-pandemic stress. Just the shear lack of passengers and movement within the train station, was a bit disconcerting.
Where are all the trains and passengers?
But we finally made it back to Turin and found our apartment essentially how we left it. With a little cleaning and adjustments here and there, if anything just to knock out the dust (caused by lack of use), everything was back in good working order.
A beautiful day from our kitchen
Turin Restaurants Are Alive And Well
Luckily we found the restaurants, Osterias, Piolas and bars in Turin all open and waiting for business. We wasted no time in sampling what we had missed for the past nine months, finding the food just as appetizing and delicious as when we left.
Ristoranta Sciamadda
A restaurant on our list of places to visit, the Ristorante Sciamadda is a very busy place during lunchtime in Turin.
Sciamadda Street View
Pernambucco in the glass
Pernambucco – An infused Orange Liqueur
Pat’s Roasted Calamari
Our Minestrone Genovese Soup
Erick’s Octopus with Potatoes – Ligurian Style
This restaurant specializes in typical Ligurian Seafood fare and at very reasonable prices. They have a good wine list and sell wines by the glass or bottle that will match nicely with anything you pick from the menu. Appertifs are something different though. If you ask for a Sambuca, you will most likely be politely rebuffed and suggested to try one of the Ligurian Appertifs. I chose the Pernambucco which was chilled and very refreshing. Infused, I can only say that it tastes like a mixture of oranges and lemons and is quite refreshing. So do not be dismayed, though I would not put it in my caffé!
Piola Sabauda Osteria
Kind of a play on words, since Osteria and Piola actually mean the same thing. Piola derived from the local Piedmonte dialect and Osteria a general term used in Italy to define an establishment that has homestyle cooking. This term apparently tacked onto the end of some restaurants to attract non-native Italians and tourists familiar with that term only.
Agnolotti Al Ragu Bianco with Parmesan CheesePlin al Sugo D’Arrosto – Another AgnolottiPiola Sabauda
For lunch, Patti had the Plin al Sugo D’Arosto and I had the Agnolotti al Ragu Bianco. Both were very good, well seasoned and served with a mixed salad provide a sufficient lunch for anyone. We are going to have to stop this, or we are going to put on too much weight..!
In Italian the word for lunch is pranzo, and with no surprise, it has its etymological roots in Latin. If you walk the streets of many small towns and cities in Italy around noontime, most restaurants will have a Pranzo Menu, outlining their lunch deal for the day. It appears customary that most Italians take lunch out, giving them yet another reason to socialize and catch up on the news and opinions of the day. It is considered to be the most important meal of the day. So, on any given day most restaurants here will be a-buzz with eating and talk, as the local population descend to get their midday meal and earful.
A Beautiful Spring Day In Piazza San Carlo – Torino – Virally Quiet Day
Pranzo a Torino
Since things have started to open up again, we thought a short blog on some of the restaurants we have visited, just walking the streets of Turin, was in order. They are arranged in order of price, service and quality of food, from best to better.
Ristoranti
Gastronomia Ferrero
This is actually a Ristogastronomia, or what we would call a Deli-Eatery. It is a fusion of a Delicatessen and restaurant, which also serves food for take out. Gastronomia Ferrero is located on Via Antonio Bertola, Turin and is an easy walk from the city center. To eat in, you just choose from the many fine things they have on display for a hot meal, or choose something from the deli if you are looking for something like a sandwich or panini. They have many pre-cooked foods to choose and the menu appears to change often, so going back does not necessarily mean you will get bored with the same old selection.
Gastronomia Ferrero – Via Antonio Bertola, 6, 10121 Torino TO, Italy
Hot Entrée Selection – Yum
Hot Entrée Selection – I’ll Take That And That…
Deli Selection
Restaurant Display Window
Restaurant Wines And Dining Area
Vegetable Rice
Squash Vinaigrette
Roasted Rabbit With Carrots
Roasted Rabbit With Roasted Peppers
All plates are made of paper and totally recyclable. Though, if you order something more demanding like we did, they will bring out silverware so you can manage meat or other entries that stronger tools. The food is very good and the pricing a bit more on the moderate side, but well worth the visit. And yes, if you eat in, you select your food and they serve you, along with what ever beverage you had in mind.
Our meal of rabbit and a side with wine, water, coffee and an apértif, ran a bit on the high side and came to 42€. Highly recommended nonetheless.
Pizzeria La Fila
La Fila pizzeria is located just down the road from the previous restaurant at Via Principe Amedeo, 3/A, Turin; and yes, make no mistake, it is the same street. Like some southern states in the US, streets often change their names across intersections, so the traveler should be aware!
La Fila Ristorante
This restaurant serves traditional pizzeria fare, including pizza and other hot pasta and spaghetti dishes. It has a good wine list and there are salads and desserts one can choose to round out your meal. Though I didn’t feel like taking a photograph of my Lasagna, since I was starving, so I only took one of my salad and my wife’s Spaghetti alla Vongole.
My Salad
Spaghetti With Clams
Our meals of salad and pasta with wine, water, coffee and an apértif, was more moderatly priced and came to about 31€ and change. Very good food and service at a good price; a recommended stop if looking for open air, piazza eating.
Da Peppino
This restaurant is right on the border of the old historic district and offers a fixed price lunch at very reasonable prices. So, if you are working on a very fixed budget, this could be one of your stops, while out shopping or traveling the city center or historic district. As you will see, we ate a lot of food, along with wine upgrade (a glass is included in the lunch menu), dessert, coffee and an apértif, and it all came to just 24€! Two can eat here easily for less than 20€.
Da Peppino is located on Via dei Mercanti 7, Turin and does not appear to have an issue attracting people to lunch, so you may want to be prompt. If you are more of the planning type, they do accept reservations.
Rigatoni all’Amatriciana
Spaghetti With Garlic And Oil
Pork Meatballs, Grilled Eggplant And Bread
Pork Meatballs With Peas
Grilled Eggplant
Roasted Ham Steak And Salad
Flan For Dessert
We really enjoyed this restaurant, though the pigeons at times were a bit annoying. The service was very good and the food was simple, but very tasty. And one cannot complain about the price, enjoy!
