Tag: WWII

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Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany – Saved from destruction

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not doubt a miracle town amongst towns in Germany. Partially bombed during World War II, it took an American officer and the German commander of the city at the time to spare this town. The results of which, we are able to enjoy this middle-age town as it appears today, forty percent of which was nevertheless destroyed by allied bombing before it was stopped.

It is located in Bavaria and is about one and a half to two hours drive from the Frankfurt area on the A3 and A7, weather permitting of course. There are several parking areas to choose from for visitors, though we found street parking a block or so further out for free.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

If it weren’t for it’s strange history at the end of World War II, this town would be easily overlooked. Not necessarily by Germans, but definitely by international tourists always looking for some interesting sidebar or reason to visit. Luckily, even on a Saturday, we did not find it all that busy for a tourist destination. We only hope that it will stay that way.

Marktplatz

The center square hosts various shops and restaurants, as well as the Town Hall and Ratstrinkstube Clock Tower. Saint George’s fountain can also be found here toward the lower part of the square.

Towers

Rothenburg has many towers on all sides of the town, especially on the eastern side. The main entrance towers are of course grander, but the little ones are no less impressive.

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The City Wall

It is one of only three towns in Germany which is still encompassed by a fully intact town wall. The eastern part of the wall, the one which we were actually able to walk on, was mostly repaired after its destruction at the end of the war.

Several parts are boarded up or unreachable, but many people from around the world contributed funds in the effort to reconstruct it, making it possible to enjoy it today. There are several main entry points, Gallows Gate, Thomas Tower and one near Ruckesse Tower, to name a few.

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Restaurants

There are many restaurants to choose from in Rothenburg, many of which are located in or near the town square. Luckily, we failed on locating an Italian restaurant that was open, but it is August and the Italians are notorious for taking the entire month off for vacation. That forced to find the amazing place that we did below.

Reichsküchenmeister – Das Herz von Rothenburg

If you are able to obtain a seat in the garden, one of the go to places in Rothenburg for a weekend lunch or early dinner.

The garden is just amazing, a totally relaxed atmosphere where we were fortunate enough to have a very responsive waiter. The menu is varied enough where one should be able to find something to fit their culinary needs.

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Mainz and Frankfurt, Germany – Revisiting old places

Not having an abundance of time, we decided to stay somewhat local a few times and visit Mainz and Frankfurt, both of which are but a stone’s throw away from Offenbach. Since we have been to both several times, we wanted to show other family members these two cities and will post mostly photographs without a lot of text.

Mainz

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Restaurants

While in Mainz, we stopped at one of our favorite restaurants, or in this case a Wine house (Weinhaus), that our friends Karl Heinz and Isolde Seegräber introduced us to in the course of one of our earlier visits.

Hof Ehrenfels Weinstube

Frankfurt

In Frankfurt all we did was a Stadtbummel around the city and just wandered around.

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Gelnhausen, Germany – a weekend train destination

With a cohort of eight, we found it impossible with only one car to make a day trip on the weekend of August the 17th, so we took the Regional Train direct from Offenbach Hauptbahnhof (Hbf). In 25 mintues with the RE51 you can be in Gelnhausen, or with the RB51 slightly longer; both operate often and at regular intervals.

Gelnhausen

An unusual destination for non-Germans, Gelnhausen does not offer much but a change of scenery, a lazy stroll in the park and perhaps different opportunities to eat.

The town is separated into lower and upper market places, or Unter- and Obermarkt, both of which act as parking lots for locals and visitors alike. Since we took the train, the entry to the town was over the Kinzig river and through the Ziegelturm.

Walking the narrow streets of Gelnhausen the visitor will notice numerous timber houses with sayings on them. In many towns, this is an old practice which has been used probably for centuries, either to provide some humor or commentary on the events of the time.

On the other end of town, after the Obermarkt you can wander through the Holzgasse Tower to find the old town wall. Here you will enjoy a very nice park with an overlook of the town and surrounding area.

Not far from the entrance is a memorial to the fallen soldiers of the town from the two world wars.

The town also has a few other monuments or fountains worth visiting.

Restaurants

There are many restaurants in this small town, though few were open. However, from what we could tell, there would be many cuisines to choose from had the other restaurants been open.

Malamatina’s Greek Restaurant

Off the beaten path and not far from the Obermarkt, is Malamatina’s Greek restaurant. Though the sign says, Greek and German food, we didn’t see much in the way of German food on the menu..

The house wine was of a Greek varietal that I, personally have never tried, but found very interesting, served under their own label.

The food was traditional Greek, offering Gyros, Slavaki and salads.

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Luxemburg, Luxemburg – Expensive Gem

Probably one of the most clean European cities you will come across is the city of Luxemburg in the country of Luxemburg, or as they prefer to spell both, Luxembourg. The people here speak many different languages, including their own. They have to, they are wedged between Belgium, France and Germany and are frequented by tourist from English speaking countries as well.

Looking north – Luxemburg, Luxemburg

Luxembourg

The city was created on its rocky perch during the Roman times, most likely due to its excellent defensive qualities. Then later in the tenth century a count acquired the rights to the land and started to build the family’s kingdom. From modest beginnings, the Kingdom of Luxembourg grew from here and became very important because of its strategic position.

The city has fortifications and remnants of them on three sides. Some are in better condition than others, but you can at least enjoy the ones that follow the river Alzette.

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There is also a wonderful weir on the river between the Plateau du Rham and the City Center. From here the water flows over a set of rapids making for a very relaxing and shaded place to walk. There is even a bridge that crosses the river here where you may also enjoy it.

Casements of Luxemburg

The casements of Luxemburg city are underground facilities were originally built as passages and storage areas for the former castle of Luxemburg. During World War II, they were used for various purposes by both sides, including shelter during bombings. The one that was open while we were there was called Casemates de la Pétrusse, named after the river Pétrusse. Unfortunately, they were all booked the day we came for the entire weekend, so purchase your tickets early, if you want to go below and enjoy the guided tour of this unusual exhibit. It is located under the Monument of Remembrance.

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The other casement is Casements du Bock which currently is temporarily closed. When it opens, tickets can be purchased for a guided tour and this one is located on Mount de Clausen near the Casement Memorial.

Church of Saint Michael’s

The church of Saint Michael’s has a beautiful set of windows to enjoy. Built in the tenth century and originally named Church of the Redemption, the new and colorful windows were installed after much of the city was destroyed during the war and the new church was reconsecrated as the church of Saint Michael.

The other point of interest in this church is the old church turret clock.

The city does offer other things to see and do, for those who are so inclined. However, for a short weekend stay, I thought we enjoyed a fair amount of what the city had to offer and enjoyed ourselves immensely. The people are very friendly and fluent in many languages. The city is clean, well cared for and vibrant and there is plenty of history to be found walking among its streets. Being only a few hours drive from Frankfurt and other cities, it is well situated for a weekend trip. Going by train is a bit longer, since there is no direct route and flying is an option, though an unjustifiable cost given the destination and the amount of time one has to spend in airports these days to get anywhere.

Restaurants

One thing that can be said about restaurants in Luxemburg is, eating out is rather expensive. Our opinion is, it’s more in line with eating out in Switzerland or at an expensive restaurant in the United States.

Trattoria Il Riccio

This is a cozy, but expensive little Italian gem on the Rue Beaumont.

We had an excellent and delicious meal here, complete with two bottles of fairly expensive wine (56€/ea) and the total for four came to 450€. Of course, we all had an appetizer, primi and secondi.

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Naples, Italy – Cloister Anyone?

There are a few cloisters in Naples worth visiting, if you have the time and interest. Since it was at the end of our trip and we were lacking time, we chose the Cloister of Santa Chiara to visit, which sits right in the middle of the Historic Center and not far from all of the shopping, which we were interested in doing as well.

Cloister – Tickets For Two

Chiostro di Santa Chiara

The cloister is behind a large church which suffered greatly during the allied bombings of Naples in the 1940s. Apparently the church took most of the damaged and the cloister was left, more of less, intact for us to enjoy today.

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Naples, Italy – The Egg And Bourbon Tunnels

Some Sights In San Ferdinando To See

After a thorough introduction to Naples, we decided it was time to see some things we had shoved to one side until we got time.

Castle dell’Ovo

Castel dell’Ovo, also known as The Egg or the Egg Castle is situated in the Bay of Naples.  It used to be a small island, but was attached some time ago to make it more accessible.  Entrance is free, even though you do have to schedule your attendance online. However, aside from the views, there truly is not much to see.  It appears to have been reused for administration and other city or port related uses.

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The Bourbon Tunnels

There are tunnels, aqueducts and other underground features all throughout Naples. None has probably had more contemporary use than the Bourbon Tunnels, which were converted and used during World War II as bomb shelters and storage. There are two entrances to this underground museum, for scheduling reason we had to enter Vico del Grottone, the same street that our restaurant below for lunch was on, so very convenient.

The following of our tour is provided uncaptioned, there is more information in the above internet link.

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Restaurants

Trattoria da Ettore

This trattoria, as many others outside of the touristy areas, is an excellent little mom and pop restaurant. It has only six tables and when they are full for lunch, you are turned away (the same is true for dinner and probably for most restaurants in Italy, when they are full, they are full, so get there early). It is located on Vico del Grottone and it is figuratively speaking a hole in the wall.

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Naples, Italy – Hiking Vesuvius

It is possible to hike to the summit of Mount Vesuvius. For a modest fee you can put on your best walking of hiking shoes and climb to the summit from within a few hundred meters in elevation. On a clear day, it is totally worth it, not only for the views of Naples but also for that curious look at what might be going on inside the crater. Our guide Federica, from MindTheNap Tours, along with Pasquale our driver took us there for the day. She has excellent knowledge of the volcano, its history and all its eruptions, as well as other off beat information regarding the consecration of the volcano by the church.

The Climb

The ascent is not very rigorous, there are plenty of old people walking up and they do hand out walking sticks, if you are so inclined. Now, on to the slide show for which I have not captioned anything, since most should be self explanatory.

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A few short videos while we were on the way up and at the summit. The audio is probably terrible, it was very windy and cold that day.

The trip up, around the crater wall and back down took us a little over an hour. But it can be completed faster, we just happened  to take our time. The drive there on the other hand depends on traffic, which as you can imagine can be problematic in Naples.

Wineries

At the foot of Mount Vesuvius are many wineries, which grew certain types of varietals, aglianico, caprettone and piedrosso, that work well with the volcanic soils.

Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery Russo Family

After our ascent up the mountain we spent a few hours in the afternoon having a tour, wine tasting and lunch at the Cantina Del Mount Vesuvio Winery of the Russo Family. We tasted the following before and during our lunch.

– Rosè Sparkling Wine (100% aglianico grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco DOP (100% caprettone grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Rosato DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso DOP (100% piedirosso grapes)
– Lacryma Christi Riserva (80% piedirosso e 20% aglianico grapes)
– Passito Bianco IGT (50% caprettone, 50% falanghina grapes)

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London – Part Three

Another day in London and more to see. Before we left, our daughter Meagan purchased the 3-day London Pass. The pass is a bit pricey, but gets you into loads of Museums, Memorials, Churches and many other places. This includes, the Churchill War Rooms, HMS Belfast, the Shard, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey and many others. So we thought it might be a good buy.

Churchill War Rooms

If you have any interest at all how the British and their Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, survived and ultimately helped win the war, then you have to see his war rooms.

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As can be imagined, London itself is teaming with memorials from all of its wars. This one however is amazing, because it impresses upon the visited some of the effort, at the highest levels, it took to fight a war on a global scale.

England was not only fighting the Germans, but also the Japanese, who invaded their southeast Asian colonies as well.

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Churchill’s Direct Line with the White House

During those times both England and America saw the need for direct communications and arrange a phone system to stretch completely across the Atlantic Ocean. A feat we take for granted today.

The War Rooms are full of interactive venues where you can take your time to read, explore and learn about the man who took England through one of the most dangerous and dark times in its history.

The HMS Belfast

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HMS Belfast

As promised in my earlier post, we did indeed have the occasion to board the HMS Belfast. Again, it’s part of the London Pass and allows you to roam a WWII era British Cruiser.

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Since we have already discussed the ship in Part One, we give you a slide show of the ship as you can explore and see it.

And if you are looking for enemies, well I imagine this baby can still find ’em..! [Joke: it’s only a prop]

Eating

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If you are ever in London and looking for a place to eat, there are of course as you can imagine, thousands to choose from. We have eaten at the following restaurants and can recommend them all highly.

The Wolseley

We had a brunch here and the atmosphere, perhaps a take on old empire England with Oriental panels, was unique.

The food was everything, from the usual simple English breakfast fare, to the more exotic dishes with fish, animal organs, etc. However, they have bacon and eggs and their egg omelets are great too!

The Hawksmoor Seven Dials

I have no idea how they derived this name, so do not ask. However, if you are looking for a good steak, this is the place to go, a carnivores heaven.

The food prices here are, as expected, a bit on the high side, but not as high as some of the wine. There are only a few entries in the wine list under 50£. For example, the Chateau de Beaucastel above, went for 165£. So bring your plastic, or plenty of cash.

The Ivy

This is perhaps my favorite. A cozy place that serves several different and interesting kinds of fare, backed up by a reasonably priced wine list.

The atmosphere here is just great, since the architecture of the building is a triangle; there are stained glass windows all around you. The bar is the centerpiece and very well done, surrounded by tables with small lamps on them, reminiscent of something out of a by-gone era. Highly recommended!

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London – Part Two

This being our second day in London, it was time to meet up with our daughter Meagan and her husband Jason and do some real sight-seeing. Though just having flown in from New York City would slow us down a little bit.

London Bridge and the Borough Market

Our first order of business, after having some time to catch-up and then take “The Tube“, was to walk across the real London Bridge from Monument Station. Not to be confused with the Tower Bridge which we will discuss later.

The Borough Market is the quintessential small town market on steroids for a big city like London. It has a myriad of trendy shops and market kiosks, along with traditional farm products from all over Europe being represented with their quality meats and cheeses. Of course, I wanted to purchase some Alpine Cheese or Tyrolese Sausage, but time and fear of having it taken from my luggage on the trip back to Italy, prevented me from doing so.

This walk took us in the general direction of the new “The Shard“, a triangular spire of a building reminiscent of the “One World Trade Center“. After having a very unremarkable lunch at the Horniman at Hays, we ascended The Shard for a view of the city.

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The Shard

As one can imagine, on a good day like ours, you can see the entire city from this height.

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HMS Belfast

The HMS Belfast is a Town-class British 6 inch gun light cruiser of World War II vintage. Similar in age to the U.S.S. North Carolina in Wilmington, North Carolina, this ship has real class and some very nice lines. If time permits I hope to go back and have a peak inside.

The Tower Bridge and Tower of London

When London comes to mind for me, I think of the BBC and the river Thames flowing under the Tower Bridge as a preamble to TV shows I frequently watched on PBS.

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The Tower Bridge – An Iconic London Landmark

Since I last saw it, years ago, the bridge appears to be woefully in need of a paint job, though nonetheless it is still graceful in appearance.

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As some may already know, the Tower Bridge is most likely named after the Tower of London, that well-known ancient prison and current repository for the Crown Jewels.

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The grounds to the Tower of London are rather large, and there is quite a lot to see here. There are several museums to visit, all of which appear to have been done in very good detail.

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Tower of London – Changing of the Guard

One can also see a similar “Changing of the Guard” that you can witness at Buckingham Palace. Just behind the guards above, is the entrance to the Crown Jewels.

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The Crown Jewels

As had been alluded to before, there are several other towers that one can visit, all of which have different histories. One of the better ones, and which also involves Sir Walter Raleigh, of North Carolina fame, is the Bloody Tower.

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From 1603 until 1616, Sir Walter Raleigh was held prisoner here. Though he was afforded amenities not many other prisoners were given, including gardening to make herbal remedies and other concoctions, his internment still must have been very unpleasant.