Kind of by luck and definitely by accident, we made our own religious pilgrimage on Easter Sunday. Our pre-planned trip was always to visit Domodossola, but only included our walk up the Via Calvario as an aside, or suggestion, if we had time. It ended up being the perfect event on a near perfect day, at least with respect to the weather.
Domodossola
A large city at the top edge of Italy with Switzerland. It is the last stop on the train line from Italy into its neighboring country. It is an odd mix of new with some very old parts. The streets are very clean and well maintained. Some of the buildings date back to Columbus’ day and actually look it.
The city has the usual fountains and piazzas. Since it was a holiday, all museums and other tourist related buildings and facilities were closed. However, we did find some shops and restaurants that would normally be closed on a Sunday, open.
Getting There
We took one of the Regional Express trains from Stresa and we were there within a half an hour. Unexpectedly, we were stopped by police inside the train station after we got off the train. I guess it was probably because there were no other IC or EC trains going into Switzerland, so they had nothing better to do. They asked me for my travel documents and luckily I had my new wallet sized US passport. They took a photograph of it, exclaimed that it was the first time they saw one and let me pass. My wife told them all she had was a driver’s license, but the quickly looked at her and said no problem, go through. Yeah, they don’t profile in Italy. So, if you are traveling close to the Swiss border in Italy, bring your passport and travel documents, you never know, you might be stopped!
Monte Calvario
To see the fifteen chapels and stations of the cross, you have to climb Monte Calvario. You arrive at the mount by the Via Calvario, a street which can be found off the Via Matterella.
The first thing you will see is a small church or chapel with a large sign explaining the origins, history and design of the entire idea.
A bit further down this road will be the start of the Via Calvario. At first, the first four chapels come fast and furious.
Once the road starts to incline, it might be better to walk on the flat pavement stones in the middle, or the outer edges if you have to, because after a short while the vertically set stones will take a toll on your feet.
Then the incline increases and it takes a bit longer to get to the next four. But, our weather was extremely pleasant, sunny and in the middle sixty degrees Fahrenheit.
Once you have reached the eigth station, you are more on less on the top of the mount. Here you will find the remaining four, eight, nine, ten and eleven.
The twelfth and thirteenth are actually in the Church of the Holy Crucifix. A beautiful little church and chapel with real candles that may be lit for prayers.
The remaining stations are outside again. We only managed to find the fifteenth station, since it is right next to an overview of the city. The other, was below by the cafe, which we had no interest at that point in visiting.
Restaurants
After walking the city for about an hour, we found a bistro for lunch. We only order salads and cannot say much about the quality of their steak, which seems to be their primary offering. However, had we known better, there was a quaint little Osteria not far from there that was actually serving an Easter dinner, with lamb and all usual italian side dishes. Oh well, our loss.
With this post we will note that we have seen a marked increase in restaurant prices. Not only for food, but drinks as well. Perhaps not exspensive as the States, but they are getting up there.
Restaurant Bistro Steak House
As a Insalata Greco goes, they were okay. About medium in size and they didn’t have a lot of Feta cheese on them, so the owner is a bit cheap. But the food was okay and not terribly expensive. I would say, if you have time, find somewhere else, but the food is fine otherwise, though you may find the service more than lacking, especially after you receive your food.
Another good tip, at least for here, but we have seen it elsewhere too. If you are done and have already told them so, get up and go to the bar (Cassa) and pay, don’t wait for them to come back. You may sprout some new grey hairs if you do.
