Known for balsamic vinegar, it also has a variety of other things to see and enjoy. Though we both couldn’t see spending more than a day here, unless of course the purpose is using it as a homebase for day trips elsewhere. The irony of it all is, you would think we would have at least tried balsamic while we were here, we did not.
Via Cesare Battista – Modena, Italy
Modena
Famously known for balsamic, Modena contains a few other points of interest, it twelfth century cathedral, as well as its own leaning tower. It has a market place, similar to other Italian towns and cities, which is actually inside for the most part and appears to function every day. The main street for shopping is most likely via Emilia Centro, it has porticos on one side and appears to have all the brand name shop one would expect to see.
Corso Vittorio Emanuelle II – Modena, Italy
Military Academy of Modena – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Via Emilia Centro – Modena, Italy
Preda Ringadora – Modena, Italy
Getting There
Thirty to forty minutes from Parma by train, Modena can be reached with only a few stops along the way for the regional train, or one stop if the InterCity train is used as an option. The train station in Modena and spartan and clean, as well as the neighborhood around it.
Entrance – Train Station – Modena, Italy
Comunale Palazzo
A civic building known as the Comunale Palazzo, was used in the past by the town council for official business and ceremonies. Outside and to the left of it, is the Preda Ringadora, a large piece of marble from Roman times used as a speaker’s platform; its present day means to “orate”. However, historians also say it was likely used as a pillory and also used to identify corpses which were laid out on it. In any case, it is commonly used today as a seat and a place of repose.
Preda Ringadora – Modena, Italy
It is open and free to the public and has a handful of rooms that may be visited, which contain frescoes.
Clock Tower and Front – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Stairs to Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
The palazzo is best known for its Hall of Fire. It is a term of endearment, assigned to it by the public to indicate that it was the hall containing the fireplace where back in the day, they could collect hot coals to warm themselves on the street during cold winter evenings. However, it is better known for the paintings that adorn the ceiling and walls that are the most impressive. Painted in the middle sixteenth century by Nicolò dell’Abate which depict episodes in Roman history that affected Modena as a town and city.
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fresco on Fireplace in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Frescoes in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Old Door and Iron Hinges in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fireplace in the Hall of Fire – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
The Council Hall is where meetings would be held with respect to the town’s business. Electors would assemble here to discuss important matters of the day, planning and other administrative tasks.
Ceiling in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Ceiling in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Meeting Table in the Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Hall of the Old Council – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
There are also a Tapestry and a Wedding Hall. Neither is of any great import, except for the paintings that adorn each.
Ceiling – Wedding Hall – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Organ – Wedding Hall – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
At the back entrance to the palazzo is a statue of Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa. It can be seen directly by way of the back entrance stairwell. Or, when the back entrance doors are open, it can be seen from the street flanked on either side by old maps of Modena.
Back Stairs to Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Back Stairs to Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Perseus with the head of Medusa – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Fortification Map of Modena – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Old Map of Modena – Back Entrance – Palazzo Comunale – Modena, Italy
Civic Tower
Located adjacent to the cathedral is the Civic Tower. Yes, the Civic Tower leans and not by a little, a lot. Comparable to those leaning towers in Bologna and Pisa it’s not that impressive, but it is very noticeable when judged from a distance, using other buildings as a reference.
Civic Tower – Modena, Italy
Cathedrals and Churches
Cathedral of Modena
The Cathedral of Modena, or precisely Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption and Saint Geminianus[1]Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site., or colloquially and affectionately known as Il Duomo as in other Italian towns and cities. The main entrance has several tympanums above each door, depicting the biblical stories of Adam and Eve.
Front and Entrance – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
From outside it appears to have been rebuilt several times, many of the blocks that make up the facade of the structure do not match in many places. Though odd, the outside follows typical Romanesque architecture, with semi-circular arches that are filled in with brick and other appointments, with the exception of the large Piazza Portal on the north side, which almost functions as the main entrance.
Right Side – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Cathedral of Modena and Civic Tower – Modena, Italy
The cathedral lacks a dome, instead having parapets on each of the four corners. It is sectioned in four places, reveals at the roof level as wall extending upwards, which coincide with the four internal arches for the nave. The inside is rather plain and mainly composed of bare brick. At the time we were there, a service was being held, limiting our ability to take more photographs.
Nave – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Aisle – Cathedral of Modena – Modena, Italy
Restaurants
For our day trip, we ate at a local place right off the Piazza Grande which promised to have good food at a fair price.
Enoteca Al Duomo
We ate lunch here on recommendations that we read online. Our seating was inside, since the temperature outside was starting to become a bit annoying. The food and service were good and we spent an enjoyable hour discussing Modena and what else, if anything, there was to see in the city.
Interior – Enoteca Al Duomo – Grande Piazza – Modena, Italy
Insalata Mista and Tagliatella Bolognese – Enoteca Al Duomo – Grande Piazza – Modena, Italy
Il Pilotta
Located in our hotel, Hotel Stendhal in Parma, we enjoyed our last meal in the area at La Pilotta. The Cappelletti is broth is common for this area and can be commended. Our main dishes were Italian in general and good, though I did not care for the stuffing in the pork tip. The menu said it was potato, but it tasted more like a polenta or some other grain and it had an odd taste for me.
Cappelletti in Broth – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Eggplant Parmigiana – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Stuffed Pork Tip with Potatoes – La Pilotta Restaurant – Stendhal Hotel – Parma, Italy
Saint Germinianus is Modena’s patron saint and who’s tomb, dating back to the fifth century, was part of one of the original churches erected on the same site.
Since we like to travel at a slower pace, we tend to stay longer in towns and cities we visit, even if the stay may be unwarranted. This gives us a better feel for the places we have visited, but then you run the risk of running out of things to do. When this happens, we visit churches, the odd museum or other eccentric distractions that typically wouldn’t come up on a visitor’s radar. Here are a few examples.
Distractions in Parma
Teatro Regio
The Regio Theater is situated on Garibaldi just past the Pilotta on the right. Tickets may be purchased directly from them, however there are only guided tours in any one of several languages.
Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Tickets For Two – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Lobby – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
The outside and entrance are rather plain and nothing compared to La Scala or other prominent theaters in Italy. However, it does have a very critical local audience that only excepts high standards and sticking to tradition. So event organizers must plan carefully, lest to lose the wrath of the local perfectionists.
Box Seating Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating Right – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Ceiling Details
Ceiling Details – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
View from Box Seat – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Box Seating from Stage – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Main Seating – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Originally decorated in the color blue, it has since been redesigned and redecorated by the Duchess Marie Louise of Parma in red. The walls are covered in box seats. When the duchess was still alive, the first floor seating, on the same level as the duchess’ box seat, were the most expensive. The very top level has no box seating, but rather standing room only for the commoner who could purchase a cheaper ticket and at least stand and hear the performances. The floor seating, though now the most expensive, were the cheaper seats in her day.
Chandelier in Box Seat of the Duke and Duchess – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Smaller Chandelier in Ante Room – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Marie Louise Duchess of Parma – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Duke – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
The box seating is nothing special, they actually look rather uncomfortable. Each used to be paired with an out room, where the ticket holder could throw a small party, bring something to eat and enjoy, or engage in other activities. The box seats and ancillary room across the hall used to be privately owned. Now the owners have been divested of the box seating, but still hold ownership rights to this ancillary rooms, which they cannot use unless they are in attendance. An odd arrangement that the theater owner, city and box seat owners agreed to some time ago, in order to prevent the theater from going bankrupt.
Hallway – Box Seating Right, Extra Rooms Left – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Typical Box Seat – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Typical Ancillary Rooms – Regio Theater – Parma, Italy
Churches and Cathedrals
Parma, as any Italian city, is host to numerous churches and cathedrals. The most important and interesting ones we found follow.
Parma Cathedral
The Romanesque architecture of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also known as the Parma Duomo or the Cathdral of Parma, must be on anyone’s list of places to visit in Parma. The ceiling by Correggio warrants a good ten to twenty minute inspection.
Facade and Tower – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance and Right Lion – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance and Left Lion – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Aisle Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
The nave is decorated by numerous frescoes and art of the twelfth century and depict the stories of faith that were common at that time.
Nave – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Madonna Side Altar in Transept – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Altar – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Altar, Organ and Crossing Ceilings – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Organ – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Ceiling in Crossing – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Left Aisle with Confessionals – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Main Entrance Frescoes – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Nave Frescoes and Ceiling – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Marquetry in Bishop Pews – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Each aisle contains about six chapels, decorated and commemorated to different aspects of the faith, some used more than others.
Chapel 1 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 2 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 3 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 6 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 4 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 5 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 7 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 8 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 9 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 10 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Chapel 11 – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Side Altar and Transept – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Parma, Italy
Parma Baptistry
Adjacent to the Cathedral of Parma is the Baptistry. From the outside it is a rather tall eight side building that is elegantly carved on the outside with many different depictions of creatures and people, some flaunting animal appendages, while others appear almost mythological.
Piazza Duomo – Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta and Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Front and Main Entrance – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
The main entrance faces northward and is adorned with a tympanum and other decorations, much like westward facing entrance. The rear entrance is less attactive and not as ornate as the other two, for reasons unknown.
Tympanum and Right Side Entry Details Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Tympanum and Left Side Entry Details Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Marble Relief Outside – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
From the inside, the Baptistry appears as a sixteen sided room with the font in the middle of the space. Each of the walls has a fresco on it and other architectural details. The ceiling is frescoed as well as a series of sixteen triangular paintings.
Today there is a collection of artistic statues placed along some of the walls, depicting the two seasons of Winter and Summer, as well as all of the months of the year.
Winter and Spring – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
May, April and March – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
August, July and June – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
November, October and September – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
February, January and December – Statues – Baptistry – Parma, Italy
Church of San Giovanni Evangelista
Under construction at the time, the church exhibits the fanciful, if not frustrating looks of a construction site so familiar to those who travel Europe.
Facade – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Nave Floor – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Altar – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Even the interior lacked lighting, so it was difficult to see much, let alone take decent photographs.
Aisle – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Aisle and Side Chapels – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Transept Chapel – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Nave and Altar – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Transept Chapel and Organ – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Small Chapel off Left Transept – Church of San Giovanni Evangelista – Parma, Italy
Complex of San Paolo
Not far from the intersection of Strada G. Garibaldi and Strada Macedonio Melloni is the complex of San Paolo. There are signs near the street by the entrance, but you have to walk a wooded entry some distance before reaching the ticket office. There you can purchase tickets for both the Rooms of San Paolo and the Puppet Museum.
Entrance – Complex of San Paolo – Parma, Italy
Rooms of Saint Paul
Better known as the Camera di San Paolo, the rooms in this museum are part of the Benedictine Monestary that stood on this spot starting in the 11th century.
Tickets For Two – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Frescoes in Smaller Room – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Statue – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Ceiling – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Aging Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Old Frescoes – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Entrance Fresco of Last Supper – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
In one room, the frescoes painted on the walls and ceilings are from one of the areas famous painters, Correggio, and were done sometime in the 16th century.
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Correggio’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Fireplace Inscription – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
The museum also has a vaulted frescoed ceiling from Alessandro Araldi dedicated to Saint Catherine.
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Alessandro Araldi’s Ceiling Fresco – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Inscription over Fireplace – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Fireplace – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Lintel Inscription and Fine Doors – Rooms of San Paolo and Saint Catherine – Parma, Italy
Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum
Founded by Italo Ferrari, a peasant and apprentice shoemaker, turned his love of puppetry and puppeteering into an obsession. After failing several times in his twenties and thirties, he took on other jobs to support himself. It wasn’t until he perfected his art after the turn of the century and his repertoire from only tragedies, but to also include comedies and variety acts, was he able to devote full time and energy to his passion.
Entrance – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Small Portable Stage – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 18 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 11 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Puppets at Entry – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Information – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
He died in 1961 at the ripe old of 84, after having several successful radio and tv presentations. From then on, his son Giordano took up his mantel and later rebranded the act as the Ferrari Company, not to be confused with the eponymous car manufacturer.
Example of Details – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
It is with the wish or his son and family to preserve this important social and artful legacy, that the family was finally able to secure funding and the means to open this museum. The museum even hosts events and of course, puppet shows, however only when the current company is not touring internationally. The shows are mainly geared around fairy tales and other fables, especially tales around good and bad people, including everyone’s favority, the devil.
Display 3 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 4 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 5 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 6 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 7 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 12 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 9 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 10 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Some of the puppets they have at their disposal seem to also indicate a predilection for the Zanni, having representations of the characters Harlequin[1]He is the dockworker, the porter, the pimp, the good servant, simple in manner and mind, who gets into trouble and is always hungry. This is Harlequin. He derives from the figure of the Zanni, the … Continue reading, Pulcinello[2]Pulcinella is both good and bad, rude and sometimes affected. Unlike Harlequin, a “sidekick,” but manages to be independent on stage, competing even with only one antagonist at a time. … Continue reading and other Commedia dell’Arte puppets.
Display 1 – Pulcinello in lower right in white – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 2 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 24 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 25 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 26 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display 27 – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Carving – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Old Advertisements – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Small Portable Stage – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Display of Circuits Used for Stages – Giordano Ferrari’s Puppet Museum – Parma, Italy
Restaurants
Uagliò Restaurant
A smaller chain restaurant with a few stores around the area, Uagliò is not a bad pick if you are in a hurry or have not made other plans. We were hungry for lunch, so we stopped to see what they had to offer. The pasta with meatballs in sauce was very good, as was the small mixed salad. There was plenty of seating inside and out.
Mixed Salad and Paccheri with Tomato Sauce and Meatballs, Tuna salad in back – Uaglio Restaurant – Parma, Italy
He is the dockworker, the porter, the pimp, the good servant, simple in manner and mind, who gets into trouble and is always hungry. This is Harlequin. He derives from the figure of the Zanni, the jester of comic tales documented as early as the 14th century. From the Zanni, Harlequin retains the frank character and natural propensity for mischief. Harlequin’s costume, known by all as the most colorful of masks, was initially white and tattered; for this reason, first a patch was added, then another, until the outfit was multi-colored diamonds. This is how we see him in 17th-century theater. His appearance is clumsy and stocky, the black half-mask he wears is animalistic, and on his head he wears a white felt hat topped with a feather or a rabbit’s foot. The feather is a symbol of fertility and the rabbit is a symbol of cunning. From his belt hangs the baòcio, the polenta stirring stick, which serves as his sword. He also has a bump on his forehead, which some believe to be the remnants of a devil’s horn. The name Harlequin, in fact, recalls that of a devil. Alichino is the devil mentioned by Dante in the Divine Comedy.
Pulcinella is both good and bad, rude and sometimes affected. Unlike Harlequin, a “sidekick,” but manages to be independent on stage, competing even with only one antagonist at a time. Pulcinella wears a white shirt with a gathered waist, white trousers with a belt, a white felt conical hat, and a half-mask with a large, slightly hooked nose. The costume is similar to that worn by peasants since the Middle Ages; they are made out of hemp, the cheapest home-woven fiber, and no color to avoid the cost of dye. Pulcinella is a poor man. These masks form the original core of the Commedia dell’Arte.
Probably for most people when they hear the word Parma, they do not think of a place to visit but rather their stomachs and eating ham. Many can argue what is the best meat with respect to taste, beef or pork. I am not sure that many can argue about pork’s versatility, from fried pork skin to bacon, pork chops to pork tenderloin, Salumi to Prosciutto Crudo. One thing is certain, if you love the last two then Parma is your Mecca.
Parma
In Parma Province, within the region called Emilia-Romagna, the city of Parma is joined with its neighboring cities by the Via Aemilia[1]One of the trunk Roman Roads that ran through Italy during the Roman Empire through the Po river valley from Piacenza to Rimini. The valley has special properties which embue the ham and cheese made here with delicate flavors. It’s all in the label, literally.
Parma Valley – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The Tasty Tour
We employed to Tasty Tour for a day long jaunt into the countryside to understand how Parma Ham, Prosciutto, Parmesan Cheese and finally, Balsamic Vinegar were manufactured.
Old Tractors – Old Massey Ferguson – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The tour promised six hour drive to three small, but key places where these products are made to the DOP[2]Denominazione d’ Origine Protetta which ensures the following. They meet the highest of standards of production and are produced within certain regions that result in characteristics to ensure … Continue reading highest standards.
Salumificio Conti
Among Parms Ham manufacturers, Salumificio Conti is a well established name with a heritage all its own. The factory is modest in size, but produces some of the best tasting hams and salumi in this region of Italy.
Entrance – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The factory orders and accepts only the two hind legs from it preprocessor and butcher. These are delivered in trucks and processed the day they arrive, so it is all planned and nothing is left to chance.
Newly Arrived Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Machine that Cleans and Salts the Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Skilled craftsmen and women assess each ham for its ultimate use, which can be anything from just daily grocery store cold cuts, to aged proscuitto and other salumis. Culatta Culatello hams are also processed here and are usually hung in bags, after the meat has been taken from the bone and properly arranged in a bag and salted.
Culatello Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Culatello Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
There were no arrivals the day we were there, but we were able to learn how the special Parma Hams were selected and stamped and smeared with a special lard, to ensure the amount of air that gets to them, after all of the are salted. They only use human grade sea salt on the hams, which in the first couple of weeks of curing is removed every other week and re-applied.
Drying Black Label 12 Month Parma and Culatello Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Drying Rosa Antico 16 Month Parma and Culatello Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The Conti Story – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
After selection and processing the hams are stored in a refrigerated controlled rooms for a specified amount of time.
Drying Parma Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Close Up of Ham – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Close Up of Ham – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Drying Black Label 12 Month Parma and Culatello Hams – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Depending on how much time they spend to dry and what type of ham each has been selected for, they are boxed and prepared for packaging and shipping. Below is batch ready for shipment that appears to be about ten months old.
Hams Ready for Packaging and Shipment – Salumificio Conti – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Damiani Parmesan Factory
San Pieri Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano is located in Parma Province, in San Prospero, just outside the city limits. The history of making Parmesan cheese in the area goes back almost a thousand years, for which the cheese that’s made here owes its distinct taste to the local flora that is eaten by the cows.
Entrance – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
At the farm, two milkings are done every day, where the milk is harvested for four different indigenous cows, they are:
Rossa Reggiana – it is considered the mother of Parmigiano Reggiano. It almost became extinct in the 1980s, after farmers committed to raising only cows that produced more milk. However, the local commune, called the Consorzio Vacche Rosse, turned this around and committed to making cheese with this milk like they did 800 years ago.
Bruna Italiana – derived from the Bruna Alpina cow from Austria and Switzerland, there is also a Consorzio di Sola Bruna that protects and makes cheese from this species. The milk from this cow has a higher fat content and subsequently the cheeses are more buttery and flavorful.
Biana Modenes – or white breed, also almost went extinct and was only just recently in 2005 spared that fate. The Caseificio Rosola di Zocca was formed to breed and protect the species from extinction. This cow produces a cheese curd that is sweeter and more elastic, giving the resultant cheese a rich, dense flavor.
Holstein Friesian – or what they call the industrial breed. Bred because it produces more milk for the same acreage as any other cow. Therefore it is doing well and provides the base, stock milk for most cheese in the area.
There are six steps to making parmesan cheese, from blending, heating and shaping, to salting, ageing and finally branding, that is, after each has passed a rigorous inspection.
Introduction – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The first two steps take place in huge vats that are heated by steam. The rise in temperature allows the yeast that is added to multiply rapidly to produce curd.
Curd Heating Vats – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The curd is then taken out using cheese cloth and strained of water, rinsed and placed into plastic molds for shaping. The plastic mold has basic information on it that imprints on the cheese rind as it forms. Special places in the mold are left blank, these are where the DOP information, the inspection results and other information are burned into the rind later.
Heating and Processing Curd – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Rinsing the Curd in Cheese Cloth – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Forming Molds with Imprints – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Forming Cheese Wheels and Wheels in Brine – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Human Grade Sea Salt – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Preliminary Aging Room – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Once the cheese has aged it is ready for inspection, the DOP information is burned into the rind. Then the inspection results are died onto the rind by a circular stamp if the cheese has passed.
Intermediate Aged Parmesan – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Wheel Cleaning Machine – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Aged Parmesan – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Aged Parmesan – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Cheese Passed Inspection – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Green Inspection Approval Stamp – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Otherwise, a rectangular or other shape is used indicating why the cheese failed, along with a scouring of the outside with latitidudinal lines, clearly indicating a sub-standard or bad wheel.
Cheese Wheel Failure – San Pier Damiani Parmigiano Reggiano Factory – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Acetaia Picci
Chef Picci, who owned and operated a very successful restaurant, retired and has devoted the rest of his days to producing balsamic vinegar of varying ages and quality with his company Acetaia Picci in Cavriago. Unlike the variety you will find in Modena and most likely in a grocery store near you, his vinegars are more acidic and owe their quality to the different grapes from the area he uses. He prefers this, since only half as much of the balsamic vinegar in the Po Valley displays these qualities, as opposed to the larger companies that produce sweeter ones from the southern parts of the valley.
Entrance and Guest – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
House and Adjoining Business – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The grape must is first heating in large vats to start the process. From there the liquid is transferred to large waiting casks in the same room. This is temporary, since the process of moving the vinegar from one cask to another is on on-going procedure.
Grape Distillery – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
First Set of Aging Barrels for Each Batch – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Each cask is only filled to 85 percent. This is to allow enough air at the top for proper fermentation. As each cask loses liquid, either from evaporation or leakage, it is topped up from the larger cask adjacent to it in a long progression. The largest of these casks are later topped up with liquid from the larger primary casks in the cooking area.
Old Tools in Stairwell – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The Triumph of Bacchus or the God of Wine – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Aging Barrels – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
As time goes on, the casks get smaller and smaller. As they descend in size, the number of years that the balsamic has been sitting inside goes up as well. Production for 7, 12, 25 and even 50 year balsamic is not uncommon. The number of years is also reflected in the price as well as the quality of the balsamic.
Aging Barrels Progression – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Old Barrels – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Balsamic over 12 years old – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Balsamic in the attic – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Typically the early the balsamic the more vinegar it has in it. Older ones tend to adopt a sweeter taste over time as the vinegar and acid content drops as it is transformed into other complex compounds. Over time sediment collects in the bottom of each cask, which noone can see until a cask is finally rendered useless due to leakage or other issues and opened.
Very old Balsamic, some over 50 years old – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Puppet guarding his stock – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Ancient Crystals of Tartaric Acid and other sediments from aging vinegar over 90 years – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Rotted Cask Wood from over 90 year old cask – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
One can see this in a simple tasting, though I could not say whether I preferred one of the other, each has different uses from dressing a salad, to cooking and baking, and even as an ice cream coating.
Tasting Balsamic – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Tasting Balsamic – Vecchia Acetaia Balsamico Picci – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Restaurants
Since our outting was a full day, it came with what they called a “light lunch”. Our destination was a small Osteria along our route called Osteria La Maestà .
Osteria La MaestÃ
The Osteria La Maestà is located on Via di Case Trombi, 15, before you enter Mulazzano Ponte from Parma. It is a typical local Osteria that is run by an older couple. Our experience was just wonderful. We spent and entire hour talking and eating excellent food.
Mozzarella and Ham roll salad – Osteria la Maesta – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Ravioli Cheese and Spinach in Butter Sauce – Osteria la Maesta – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
The entire meal consisted of an appetizer of mozzarella and ham, a tortelli di erbetta primi, a light dessert, red and white wines and both types of water.
Dessert – Osteria la Maesta – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Conclusion
We cannot say enough about the Tasty Bus tour, or the type of tour that takes you these small producers of ham and cheese. We had a wonderful time and before we knew it, it was over. Upon return we ran into a bit a bad weather. It had been exceptionally hot and the weather complied with kicking up the necessary line of thunderstorms.
Rainy End of our Tour – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Rainy End of our Tour – Tasty Bus Tour – Parma, Italy
Our tour bus driver and guide was accomodating enough to get us as close as possible to our hotel, but as they say in America, we got a wet ass anyways. Oh well. We started the day wet in sweat and ended the day wet in rain, so we came out kind of even, but enjoyed every minute of the experience.
Denominazione d’ Origine Protetta which ensures the following. They meet the highest of standards of production and are produced within certain regions that result in characteristics to ensure a consistent quality. The ingredients and products come from a specific location and/or family that has been approved and designated by the government to produce such foods. Every element of the product is quality tested and tracked with serial numbers to confirm the exact origins, processing, and approval body of the product.
Approximately two to two and a half hours away from our place in Turin is the city of Parma. Known for ham, cheese and other delicacies in the region, we had been wanting to go there for some time. Our recent visit was for us full of surprises, including the Pilotta Museum Complex, which was a pleasure for us and central to this post.
Parma
At first we were not too sure about the city. Our first impressions, and to some extent our lasting ones as well, is that it is laid out in a chaotic fashion, even for an Italian town. The mixture of new and old on the outskirts is not very pleasing to the eye and is kind of takes away from the central historic part of the city, which frankly is not very large.
Palazzo Tarasconi – Parma, Italy
Palazzo Bossi Bocchi – Parma, Italy
Governor’s Palace – Parma, Italy
The Parma river as well, suffers from drought and over-irrigation, a mere trickle of its former self. Called a torrente in Italian, or torrent, one can only wonder when the last time the river actually enjoyed that much water.
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy
Ponte Verdi – Parma, Italy
The city does not suffer from tourism and we found the historic parts very pleasant to walk around. There is not much to see, hence our reason for visiting the museums, which we found different and interesting.
We took the FrecciaRossa train from Turin to Milan, then the Regional from Milan to Parma. The regional trains make more stops than the high speed trains, taking an extra half hour to make the hour long trip by high speed rail. The good news is, there are options between Milan and Parma, from FrecciaRossa, Italo, TrenItalia FTP to TrenNord and perhaps more. Our selection was based on scheduling and nothing else.
Strada Cavour
The main street for shopping in the city. It was about a ten minute walk from our hotel and winds its way through the older part of the city, though all of the businesses are modern. You will find all the modern, trendy and chain-like stores here, along with their inflated prices.
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Strada Cavour – Parma, Italy
Hotel Stendhal
We stayed at the Hotel Stendhal, a fifteen minute direct walk from the train station. Though we read some concerning reviews on some travel sites, we did not have any issues at all and had the most enjoyable stay. The staff was great and we never had to ask for anything. We had a large superior room on the side of the hotel which was very quiet and comfortable, along with a complimentary breakfast.
Outside Our Hotel – Cortile del Guazzatoio – Parma, Italy
Entrance – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy
Foyer – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy
Pilotta Museum Complex
The Pilotta Museum Complex is the former Faranese Palace that now houses five or six museums, some of which were not open at the time of our visit.
Ponte Verdi – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Tickets For Two – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Entrance – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Parma
The archeological museum offers artifacts from the ancient history in and around Parma. Here are exhibits of the ancient civilizations of the Roman Empire, Greeks and Etruscans who inhabited the Po river valley and the surrounding area thousands of years ago.
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The museum also has a display of ancient Roman tombs, including sarcophogy and examples of mummified remains.
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Farnese Theater
The Farnese Theater is actually a rather bizarre construction. Built within a very large room of the palace is a theater that was constructed quickly, in order to entertain some political majistrate of the Medici family. However, the event never took place and subsequent to it completion, it was only used eight or nine times.
It eventually succumbed to allied bombings in the mid 1940s and was almost completely destroyed and then rebuilt later, for cultural reasons. Though none of the plaster exterior has never been replaced, as is evident by the missing ceiling, it still enjoys a woddy charm. Luckily, the old frescoes survived and can still be seen today.
Backstage Elements – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Galleria Nazionale di Parma
The entrance to the National Gallery is flanked by two huge statues. One of Dionysus and the other or Hercules. They are both impressive in their own right, with the one of Hercules looking like it is right on the boundary of the human anatomy.
Hercules – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Dionysus – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The rest of the gallery houses a myriad of large paintings in its large hall. Unfortunately there are no benches or seating to admire them, so one can only slowly walk by or stand in front of them for a bit, in order to admire them.
Main Room – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
As of this writing, the back of the gallery held the real prize for a visitor, a work by Leonardo da Vinci called the head of a woman, or “La Scapiliata”. One can see similarities with her face and that of the Mona Lisa, which was painted some time after and is now in the Louvre in Paris, France.
Head of a Woman “La Scapiliata” – Leonardo da Vinci, Vinci, 1452 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Madonna of the Bowl, Rest after the Return from Egypt – Antonio Allegri detto il Correggio, 1489 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Palatina Library
The Palatina Library is a large library that is still functioning, although for academic and research purposes only. However, the Petitot Gallery is still open to the public, where one can find a wide variety of topics, mostly in Italian of course.
Art Exhibits in Entrance – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
One Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Old Books – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Side Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
The Bodoni Museum
Anyone who has taken typesetting in school would enjoy the Bodoni Museum. The museum honors the famous Parma typesetter and printer, Giambattista Bodoni, and his eponymous typeface as well. The Bodoni typeface was a favorite of mine in high school, where I learned the intricacies of setting type. I loved its clean lines and serifs, using it to print a set of invitations for my mother at one time[1]To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and … Continue reading.
Bodoni Bust and Painting – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Printing Press – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Stories of Punching and Printing – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy
Restaurants
You will find most of the non-industrial restaurants away from the main shopping street of Strada Cavour. Reservations are recommended, even for lunch, for these are often used by locals and the business crowd. Most of the Osterias and Trattorias serve wine by the tap in quarter, half and full liter sizes, whereas the corporate restaurants on Cavour serve only by the glass, so they can up-charge for it, like in the United States.
Osteria dei Servi
The Osteria dei Servi is actually housed under the Viale Giovanni Mariotti and has a rather odd entrance. But don’t let that fool you. The restaurant is actually quite nice inside and comfortable. The food is excellent and typical for the area.
Entrance – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Inside – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Bar – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Patti – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Bread and Patti’s Dinner – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Ravioli – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy
Trattoria Corrieri Parma
Another fine local restaurant is the Trattoria Corrieri Parma. Located further down in the city and by a Parma University building, it offers great food at even lower prices than die Servi. We found the service similar and the menu full of local dishes for us to try.
To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and serifs; the stark, epigraphic composition of the title pages and dedications; the airy, correct relationship between text and images, between line and line, between light and dark make Bodoni’s page a prodigy of harmony and readability.“
