With a choice between visiting Warsaw or Gdańsk, we chose Gdańsk because it had more historical meaning and promised a quainter historic center. Moreover, since we were doing a south to north kind of trip, it was the last stop on our itinerary, so smaller is usually less complicated and less demanding.
Gdańsk
Formerly known as Danzig, Gdańsk is a seaside city on the Baltic coast of Poland. Though the old city lies in the delta of the Motlawa River, it is still some five kilometers from the sea. It has switched back and forth from Polish rules, German, Russian and as a free-state. In the middle ages, it was once part of the Haneastic League and was a major trading partner in that confederation.
Patti – Gdańsk Sign – Gdańsk, Poland
Getting There
From Wrocław, Gdańsk is over a four hour train trip using the InterCity train system. Though the InterCity trains do not stop too often, there is still considerable distance between the two cities and even with an automobile it is a long drive. We were fortunate enough to have a very talkative couple that were Canadian-Polish dual citizens and have a very nice chat with them along the way, which thankfully seemed to have made the trip go faster.
Four Quarters Fountain – Gdańsk, Poland
Carousel – Gdańsk, Poland
Royal Chapel – Gdańsk, Poland
Roman Cellar – Gdańsk, Poland
Setting up for St. Dominic’s Fair – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Erbsenmarkt – Gdańsk, Poland
Motlawa River
Along the Motlawa River on both sides are rows of buildings. Many were old warehouses, shops, fish mongers and other establishments, when the city was an active seaport. Today it is mostly restaurants, shops and hotels.
Boardwalk – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Boardwalk – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Lew Galeon – Gdańsk, Poland
Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane
One of the major attactions is the Old Port Crane, also known as the Gdańsk Crane, actually has an unknown origin. Though ostensibly built to convey things from ships portside into the city over the surrounding wall its actual purpose remains a mystery. It burnt down once and was restored, only to be partially destroyed during the end of World War II and rebuilt in the 1960s as a historical piece and museum.
Old Port Crane – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Patti on Rotating Bridge – Holy Spirit Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane Bronze Monument – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Large Tread Wheels – Old Port Crane – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Długa Street
Also known as Long Lane, or Langgasse, Długa Street is where you will find many of the notable houses that adorn the old town, as well as the Town Hall and Neptune’s Fountain.
Neptune Fountain – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Basement Restaurant – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Golden House – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Town Hall – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Fahrenheit Monument – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Long Market Place – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Long Market Place – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Neptune Fountain – Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
It is bounded by the Green Gate on the end by the river, and the Golden Gate, which is near the former main entrance to the town, including its barbican and Highland Gate.
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Golden Gate – Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Mariacka Street
Parallel to Long Lane is Mariacka Street, an unusual sort of street due to its narrowness and odd balustrades on the stoops of each of the houses that line the street.
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Ornate Downspouts – Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Ornate Downspouts – Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Ornate Balustades – Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Each balustrade was made unique so that the owner could identify his building when the river overflowed it’s banks. Most of the houses here are also quaintly decorated, though many have fallen into disrepair over the years.
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Mariacka Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Raduni Canal
Another interesting place to visit is the area around the Raduni Canal. This is located on the other side of the basilica and Roman Keller.
Jan Heweliusz – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Mill – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Waterfall by Mill – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Lew Hewelion Businessman Small Bronz – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Dom Sygnatora – Gdańsk, Poland
Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Museum – Radunia Canal – Gdańsk, Poland
Gates And More Gates
There are many gates in the old town, however most of the surviving ones still face the river.
Saint John’s Gate – Gdańsk, Poland
Straganiarska Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Chlebnicka Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Green Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Cow’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Barbican and Tower of Secrets Gate – Stągwie Mleczne – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Barbican and Tower of Secrets Gate – Stągwie Mleczne – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Gate – Motława River – Gdańsk, Poland
The Highland and Golden Gates are on the land side of the city and were connected to a great wall that surrounded it at one time. Here you will find one of the walls two barbicans attached to the Torture Gate or house. This gate doubled as a prison and became known for tortures that were carried out in its cellars.
Highland Gate – Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Golden Gate – Upper Długa Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Old Town Wall and Straw Tower – Gdańsk, Poland
Jamark Building – Targ Węglowy Street – Gdańsk, Poland
Straw Tower – Gdańsk, Poland
More Old Town Wall and Park – Gdańsk, Poland
Churches And Cathedrals
Clock Outside – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Saint Mary’s Basilica
Situated almost in the center of town and on one end of Mariacka Street is Saint Mary’s Basilica. A brick gothic cathedral from the fourteenth century that has a working clock on its left side above the apse’s rear window which still appeared to maintain good time.
Entrance – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Nave – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Entrance – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Aisle – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Altar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Art – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
The church has an amazing organ and stained glass window in its transept. Though it is evident by the used mobile organ, the installed older one may no longer be in working order.
Organ – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Temporary Organ – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
The church has a very interesting working astronomical clock and calendar along the interior left apse. According to records it not only computes most astronomical seasonal events, but also liturgical events and their timing.
Astronomical Clock – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Clock’s Calendar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Clock’s Calendar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Lastly, this basilica is rather plain and therefore many of the epitaphs and memorials stick out prominently. Most have German inscriptions on them, owing to the city rich heritage, though many are also written in Latin.
Memorial – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Memorial – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Memorials – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Interesting Grave Inscription – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Gdańsk, Poland
Restaurants
Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant
If you go through the Green Gate and cross the bridge then walk a few steps down Stągiewna Street you will find Yang Guang Chinese Restaurant on your right. If you are tired of all the meat, potatoes and dumplings you have been eating up until now, this is a very good stop for some vegetables. The even have broccoli in garlic sauce, one of our favorites.
Inside – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland
Wonton Soup – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland
Broccoli with Garlic Sauce on White Rice – Chińska Yang Guang Restaurant – Gdańsk, Poland
Sempre Ristorante
The Sempre Ristorante is near the tip of the small island on the other side of the river. It is a modern Italian restaurant that serves good food with an upscale slant on the recipes and the prices. You won’t go wrong eating here, but you will also pay for it, if you know what I mean.
Bruschette and Chicken Soup with Dumplings – Sempre Ristorante – Gdańsk, Poland
Tygle Restaurant
A highly rated restaurant with excellent Polish food is Tygle. Here you will find some classics as well as some new takes on Polish cuisine. If you are a chocolate lover, the urchin dessert is a must try. But be careful, those spikes are dark chocolate and will cause real damage to your diet.
Aside from its old Germanic name of Breslau and its temporary occupation by the Soviets, Wrocław looks and feels completely Polish today. Though not as pretty or well kept as its southern cousin Kraków, it is still a nice city to visit for a few days.
Cathedral – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Wrocław
Situated on the river Oder, Wrocław is today an odd mix of old, new and unfinished. We were actually quite surprised at how often we came up parcels in the city that were either unimproved or totally abandoned. That coupled with the weather, which for us turned rainy, made for a lasting impression of it being a dreary place if it so wished.
Bastion Sakwowy – Wrocław, Poland
Bastion Sakwowy – Wrocław, Poland
Promenade – Wrocław, Poland
Promenade – Wrocław, Poland
Fortunately we had enough good weather, however changeable it was, to tour the entire city and enjoy it. We especially enjoyed the area around the Wrocław Cathedral and would commend you visit there if you have a half day to spare.
Getting There
The easiest way to get to Wrocław from Kraków is either by car, bus or train. Since we try to use trains when we can, we took the inter-city train which took about there and a half hours to travel the distance.
Wrocław Głowny – Wrocław, Poland
Entrance – Wrocław Głowny – Wrocław, Poland
Gnomes Everywhere
In fact, there are over a thousand of these little bronze statues placed throughout the city. It is a great idea, the children love them and families can actually purchase or download and print off a map with the location of all of them. Finding them, of course, is still the tricky part, since it is not always obvious where they are exactly.
Gnomes – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Computer Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Sisyphus Gnomes – Wrocław, Poland
Gnomes on Penitent Bridge – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Disappearing Pedestrians – Wrocław, Poland
Appearing Pedestrians – Wrocław, Poland
Kebap Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnomes – Wrocław, Poland
Original Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Printing Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Backhoe Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Raclawicka Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Slaughterhouse Bronzes – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnomes – Wrocław, Poland
Miner Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
ATM Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Gnome – Wrocław, Poland
Rynek Square
The main square in town is the Rynek. It is rather large but contains a number of buildings, as well as the town hall, in a misaligned fashion within the square or plaza itself. It is full a gnomes, so be careful to look while you walk, or you may miss one.
Rynek Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Rynek Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Rynek Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Rynek Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Town Hall – – Rynek Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
The Pillory – Rynek Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Solny Square
Solny Square or plaza lies corner to corner with Rynek, since the are adjoined to one another on one of the vertices. Here you will find a small flower market which appears to be open every day. Again there are plenty of gnomes to find here, as well as some interesting monuments and sculptures.
Solny Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Trzech Murzynków Sculpture – Solny Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Smoki Fountain – Solny Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Solny Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Solny Plaza – Wrocław, Poland
Building – Wrocław, Poland
Oder River
A portion of the Oder cuts through the city and bisects it. Here you can find a river cruise or tour, as well as magnifacent parks to stretch your legs. There are also plenty of museums in there area. One of particular note and worth a visit is the Panoramic Museum.
Dam and Power Station – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Cathedral – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Wyspa Piasek – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Sand Bridge – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Cathedral – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Sand Bridge – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Sand Bridge – Oder River – Wrocław, Poland
Panorama Racławice Museum
The museum provides a panorama of the Battle of Racławice which occurred in 1794 against the Russians. A branch of the National Museum in Wrocław, the museum is housed in a rotunda with a 360 degree canvas, as well as additional dioramatic accessory in the foreground, to give the visitor the feeling of what it might have been like during the battle.
Tickets For Two – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Entrance – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Inside – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
It is a guided tour and language modules are provided so that everyone can enjoy the story of the battle as they move around the theater.
Scene 1 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 2 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 3 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 4 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 5 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 6 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 7 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 8 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 9 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 10 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 11 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Scene 12 – Panorama Racławicka Museum – Wrocław, Poland
Church And Cathedrals
In this city you will find less churches, they are not as abundant as in Kraków. However, the ones you can visit and just as beautiful.
Wrocław Cathedral
Located across the Oder via the Sand and Tumski bridges, the Wrocław Cathedral has beautiful stained glass windows inside. They only adorn one side, since the windows on the other side are obfuscated by an adjoining structure, which in and of itself I found very odd.
Old Door with Iron Hinges – Wrocław Cathedral – Wrocław, Poland
Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena
The Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena is the one church where we paid for entrance, so that we could ascend the tower and view the city from the Penitent Bridge.
Tickets For Two – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland
Front and Facade – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland
Entrance – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland
Nave – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland
City View – Penitent Tower – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland
City View – Penitent Tower – Cathedral Saint Mary Magdelena – Wrocław, Poland
Restaurants
In Wrocław we decided to scale back on the amount of Polish food we would consume, since it is very rich and calory laden.
Konspira
The exception to the above remark was Konspira. A highly rated restaurant on Polish cusine and an interesting theme, the fight against the Soviets and communism.
Chicken Broth with Dumplings – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland
Duck with Potatoes and Cabbage – Konspira Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland
Wiatr Chinese Restaurant
A break away from the traditional food here, we chose to eat Chinese for lunch. The food here is very good and less filling, it is also a bit lighter on your wallet. We found it a good choice for food and speedy service.
Bar – Wiatr Chinese Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland
Wonton Soup – Wiatr Chinese Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland
Chicken with Vegetables and Fried Rice – Wiatr Chinese Restaurant – Wrocław, Poland
Zagreb, the etymology of the name even today is disputed, is actually composed of two historic city centers, Kaptol to the east and Gradec to the west. Today, it consists of an even larger metropolitan area, where more than a million people live.
Zagreb
On a normal day, the historic parts of the city are filled with tourists and sightseers, however the weekends can be quieter. We arrived on a Sunday and found it strangely quiescent.
Rainy Day in Zagreb – Spomenik Stjepanu Radiću Statue – Zagreb, Croatia
Marketplace – Zagreb, Croatia
The Old Part of Town – Gradec – Zagreb, Croatia
Kaptol was the first to be formally recognized as pertaining to Zagreb, followed by Gradec some time later through King Bela IV edict of the Golden Bull. They both sit upon their corresponding hills and lay alongside one another, being separated somewhat by a slight depression where the Тkalčićeva ulica street runs.
Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Тkalčićeva ulica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Getting There
Coming from Turin we flew with Air Dolomiti to Munich and then later on to Zagreb, two short one hour flights which took us about five hours to complete with layover.
Arriving in Munich – Munich, Germany
Flying over Croatia – Croatia
Landing – Zagreb, Croatia
City in the distance – Zagreb, Croatia
The Zagrab airport is small, perhaps smaller than most would expect. It took us approximately an hour to get our luggage, once we had left the plane. So do not expect the speedy luggage service you may enjoy elsewhere, here, things definitely move slower. In such cases, it might be good to have air-tags, just to keep an eye on where your luggage is, before getting alarmed. We got them as a gift and they really came in handy.
Airport Baggage Claim – Zagreb, Croatia
Of course you can also come by car, but from what we can see, parking is a problem and quite expensive. Train, is also an option, though we ruled it out due to scheduling issues and other considerations.
Train Station – Zagreb, Croatia
Train Station – Zagreb, Croatia
Lower Zagreb
We stayed in Lower Zagreb very close to Kaptol and the main square. From here we were able to visit most parts of the old city within a ten to fifteen minute walk.
Manda Hotel – Zagreb, Croatia
Zrinjevac Park
Actually many parks in tandem and tied together by several buildings and monuments. It is actually a nice place to take a stroll and enjoy the salubrious spring weather.
Patti – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Science Musuem – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Strossmayer Stature – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Art Pavilion – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
King Tomislav Monument – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
King Tomislav Monument – Trg Nikole Subica Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Gradec
To the west of Kaptol and across small depression represented by Pavla Radica, where you will find many bars, cafes and some restaurants, is Gradec, also referred to as Grič.
Opatovina Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Opatovina Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Opatovina Park – Zagreb, Croatia
The Stone Gate
One of the entrances to Gradec is via the Stone Gate. It is adorned by a statue of Saint George before you get there and actually contains a small chapel.
Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Saint George Statue – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Saint George Statue and Stone Gate – Pavla Radica Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Stone Gate – Zagreb, Croatia
Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia
Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia
Saint Mark’s Church
The most prominent structure here is Saint Mark’s Church. Noted for its polychrome roof tiles depicting the coats of arms of Croatia and Zagreb, it is a beautiful to see. Again, like other structures in the area, it too was damaged by the earthquake and was still undergoing renovations at the time of our visit. Therefore, we were unable to go inside or even get up close to its facade.
Church of Saint Mark – Zagreb, Croatia
Observation Tower
The Observation Tower, or Lotrščak Tower, can be found near Saint Mark’s Church in Gradec. It is right next to the Furnicular station to Lower Zagreb and can be ascended for a modest fee. We chose not to, since the weather was terrible and it was raining and overcast.
Lotrscak Tower – Zagreb, Croatia
Overview of Lower City and Furnicular – Zagreb, Croatia
Overview of Lower City and Furnicular – Zagreb, Croatia
Tunel Grič
Built during World War II as a bomb shelter, the Tunel Grič, or Gric Tunnel is commonly used as a pedestrian path now, even though several sections of it are in disrepair and no longer used. The main section spans about a quarter of a mile an connects western side of Gradec with the eastern side on Pavla Radica street.
Entrance to Gric Tunnel – Strossmayer Park – Zagreb, Croatia
Gric Tunnel – Zagreb, Croatia
Gric Tunnel – Zagreb, Croatia
Gric Tunnel – Zagreb, Croatia
Kaptol
Even today it appears that most of the real estate here is consigned to the Roman Catholic clergy in one form or another. It is here where you will find the Cathedral of Zagreb, the seat of arch bishop.
Monument to Kumica Barica – Zagreb, Croatia
Dome of the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary – Zagreb, Croatia
Cafes and Bars – Zagreb, Croatia
Typical Side Street – Zagreb, Croatia
Walking in Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Old Building – Zagreb, Croatia
Walking the Kaptol street is very relaxing. All of Zagreb is rather well cared for in one repect or another, but this area even more so with its beautiful buildings and well maintained park, the Ribnjak Park.
Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Small Catholic Chapel – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Ribnjak Park – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Zagreb Cathedral
An enormous and the most prominent building in Kaptol is the Zagreb Cathedral. It is the second tallest building in Croatia and is surrounded by the Kaptol Fortress. Unfortunately at this writing, it was undergoing heavy reconstruction after the 2020 Earthquake., where most of its facade and interior are shrouded in construction scaffolding and screens.
Coming up to the Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
The southern spire had snapped off during the quake and crashed onto one of the adjacent buildings. The northern spire was later removed because it was leaning and can now be seen alongside the cathedral, waiting for its eventual return.
Bells – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Nave – Zagreb Cathedral – Kaptol – Zagreb, Croatia
Restaurants
Gostionica Ficlek
The restaurant Gostionica Ficlek is a good place to enjoy the gastronomy of Croatia and Zagreb. It has a fine collection of tasty treats on its menu that can be tried for a more than reasonable price. The traditional chicken soup tastes like a typical chicken soup, until you notice the dumplings, which just puts it over the top.
Entrance – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Menu – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Patti – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Ajngmahtec – Traditional Chicken Soup with Dumplings – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Zagrebački odreyak – Breaded Pork stuffed with Ham and Cheese, Potato Salad – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Cruffin with Vanilla Creme and Brioche with Almonds – Korica Cafe – Zagreb, Croatia
Patti’s Turkey with mlinci – Ficlek Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Heritage Street Food
For lunch, Patti selected a tiny establishment on Petrinjska street, known as Heritage Street Food. Their concentration is on Paninis and Focaccia style sandwiches, which when combined with other delectable sides, create a truly enjoyable and tasty little adventure for your palate.
Entrance – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Bread with spicy olive oil – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Istrian Pearl Sandwich – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
House Sauvignon Blanc with Gligora Cheese platter with Walnuts, Fig Jam and Figs – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Puslek Honey Herbal Liqueur – Heritage Street Food Restaurant – Zagreb, Croatia
Caffe & Bar Jupi
The day that we left Zagreb we visited a small cafe for breakfast called Caffe & Bar Jupi. Patti ordered the pancakes with fruit and I had the scrambled eggs. Both were delicious and hit the spot on a busy and somewhat chilly morning.
Patti – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia
Scrambled eggs, Hüttenkäse and Cucumber salad – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia
Pancakes with Berries – Cafe and Bar Jupi – Zagreb, Croatia
For a few days we enjoyed the company of our cousin Chris, who luckily was traveling for business in the area and was able to stop by for a visit.
Turin
Chris arrived on Friday and I met him at our main train station of Porta Nuova, which because it was coming from Naples and went through Rome, was late by about fifteen minutes.
Cousin Chris Arriving – Porta Nuova – Turin, Italy
For one entire Saturday, the 2nd of May, we were able to enjoy amazing weather and show Chris the city of Turin. One of our major stops was the Open Market in Piazza della Repubblica. There he purchased authentic Italian cheese to take back home with him. Other than that, we just made sure he enjoyed great food here and kept him as comfortable as possible in our apartment for a few days.
Patti and Chris – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy
Chris and Erick – Giolitti Apartment – Turin, Italy
Restaurants
It seemed like we spent more time in the restaurants, trattoria and cafes, than we did walking around. We made a point of it to take him to our two favorite restaurants nearby, which I am happy to say we had reservations for, given the fact the city was packed with people for the Jazz Festival in Turin.
Trattoria D’Agata
Our favorite Trattoria for authentic Silician cuisine is the Trattoria D’Agata in Turin. Here we always enjoy good food, their Arancini are to die for, and good wine.
Chris and Patti talking food – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Arancini and Baked Mozzarella – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Patti’s Pasta alla Norma – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Patate al Forno and Filetta with Pistachios – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
la Luna Barbera from Alba – Trattoria D’Agata – Turin, Italy
Porto di Savona
Another favorite of ours for Piemontese cuisine is the Porta di Savona. Since the weather was so exceptional and it was lunch we sat outside. Located in the corner of the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, we essentially sat on the edge of the rest of chaos going on in the piazza, it was very busy.
Tajarin with Cheese Sauce and Insalata Mista – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy
Chris – Porto di Savona Ristorant – Turin, Italy
We had a great time and we are sure Chris did too!
A destination for tourists and those interested in southern Italian cuisine, a stop in Tropea is almost a must. Known for their mixture of Sicilian and Greek influences, this part of Calabria is famous for the Tropean Red Onion, or Cipolla Rossa, one of the most tasty onions in the world. Onions anyone?
Tropean Onions – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Getting There
In order to get to Tropea from Sapri we had to take the InterCity train from Sapri to Lamezia Terme Centrale and then connect. Unfortunately there is no logistical way around it. From there we took the local TrennItalia Regional train service to Tropea. This gave us a two and a half hour layover in Lamezia Terme, just enough time for lunch!
Lamezia Terme
Other than connecting with our other train, there was no other reason to visit this place, that is, other than lunch! With two and a half hours layover, we had plenty of time.
Restaurants
Europa da Albano
While we were on our InterCity train, I took the liberty of researching what our options were at Lamezia Terme. There weren’t many, but this restaurant and pizzeria caught my eye. It was a good choice. It was very busy inside and out and packed with local people, which is actually a good sign. Though we waited a bit to order, the wait was not bad in the end and our drinks and food arrived within customary promptness.
Greek Salad with Tuna – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy
Spaghetti Bolognese – Europa da Albano Ristorante – Lamezia Terme, Italy
Tropea
Town sign and map – Tropea, Italy
Calata di Patéi – Largo Villetta – Tropea, Italy
Calata di Patéi – Largo Villetta – Tropea, Italy
Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy
One of the Canons – Piazza del Cannone – Tropea, Italy
Affaccion del Corso – Tropea, Italy
Another Canon – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Unknown to us, Tropea is a very busy tourist destination and we were there on a weekend, so the crowds we experienced were kind of unexpected, especially for this time of year.
Typical Side Street – Tropea, Italy
Typical Side Street – Tropea, Italy
Typical Alley – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Ercola – Tropea, Italy
Old Portal – Largo Galluppi – Tropea, Italy
17th Century Palazzo Marchesi Toraldo di Francia – Tropea, Italy
Narrow Streets – Tropea, Italy
Narrow Streets – Tropea, Italy
One of the main squares or piazzas close to our hotel, was the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, which our street ran right into, if you walked far enough. It has plenty of seating and a few monuments amongst the trees that have been planted to provide some shade against the sun.
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Piazza Vittorio Veneto – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Statua ai caduti di Tropea – Tropea, Italy
From there the main street in town is the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, which turns into Via Stazione as one gets closer to the train station.
Weekend Visitors – Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Corso Vittoria Emanuele – Tropea, Italy
Hotel Colomba D’Oro
In Tropea we stayed at a hotel between the old part of town and the train station. It was just as well, our hotel in the city was the Hotel Colomba D’Oro on via Vittorio Veneto and it proved to be quiet and very comfortable. Our room came with a free morning continental breakfast, which included cooked eggs, pancetta and other warm offerings.
Hotel Colomba D’Oro – Tropea, Italy
Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania
The twelfth century cathedral of Saint Mary of Romania is on Largo Duomo. The interior houses guilt altar for the Virgin of Romania and the Black Crucifix of 1600.
Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Chapel Dome – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Tomb by Entrance – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Organ and Altar of the Virgin of Romania – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Black Crucifix of 1600 – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Altar – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Statues – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Mother Mary and Jesus – 12th Century Cathedral of Maria Santissima of Romania – Tropea, Italy
Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea
On the presque-isle of Tropea, which is actually to an island than a peninsula, stands the Sanctuary of Santa Maria. In order to get there one has to climb down from the city and ascend the stairs to the sanctuary, which opens around ten in the morning. It is best to get their at opening, because as we where leaving throngs of people appeared and the inside of the chapel is quite tiny.
Tickets For Two – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
View – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Facade and Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
The entrance to the sanctuary is adorned by three painted cielings.
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
The interior is actually quite small and fitted out with pews, an altar and other accoutrements of catholicism. There is also a small shop where you can by a keepsake, postcards or other memorabilia.
Pews – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Confessional – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Nave – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Altar – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
There are a few vantage points in which to take photographs of the surrounding coast and beach, as well as the city of Tropea perched on its cliff.
Patti – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Erick – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens
An adjunct to the sanctuary are the Belvedere Gardens, access to which is controlled by entry to the chapel. The gardens command a view of the coastline and with perfect weather equally good photographs of it.
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
There are a variety of trees in the garden, as well as other bushes and flowering plants. In the day it must have been an amazing place to repose and enjoy the day.
Patti – Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Belvedere Gardens – Sanctuary of Santa Maria of the Island of Tropea – Tropea, Italy
Parking – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare
Though the walk along the Lungomare in Tropea is not the best we have been on, it is a nice walk that can bring you back up on the other side of Tropea. It also provides access to the sandy beach that enjoys protection from the wind and the waves and appears to be a favorite for the locals.
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
The Grotto – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Beach – Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Via Lungo Mare – Tropea, Italy
Nasocchio – The Apotropian Mask
Walking though the town a visitor will occasionally notice a mask that almost looks like a caricature. The closest analog we have in the States are caricature artists that frequent fairs and draw your face with a pencil in a very stylized way. Well, these masks are specific to the Calabrian culture.
Nasocchio and the Apotropian Masks – Totemic Masks against Evil Eye – Tropea, Italy
Nasocchio as he is called in Calabrian culture is a mask whose strange and unique glare is supposed to frighten away evil spirits, or what is commonly termed here the Malocchio or Evil Eye. The Italian Horn is meant to function in the same way, as are other strange artifacts in the culture. They are also meant to bring good fortune with their use.
Restaurants
Though we stayed here only for two nights, we still had occasion to visit three restaurants, all of which offered local Calabrian or Sicilian dishes.
Royal Bar
Not known for their food, we bought some drinks here for a quick rest. Nothing special, but the drinks were okay.
Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy
Campari Spritz and Granita – Royal Bar – Tropea, Italy
Diamante Rosso Tropea Ristorante
Here we had to try to local al ragu Arancini, or Sicilian breaded and conically shaped stuffed rice balls that are deep-fried. They were amazing, but usually always good, depending where you buy and how they are made. They can actually be purchased at most good local stores, cafes and some marketplaces and quickly heated up for a snack or meal.
At Le Volpe we ordered a pasta dish each and dessert. The Filey was freshly made and topped with Tropean Onions, which are deliciously sweet, when they are sautéed until they have that glassy look.
English Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Drink Menu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Entrance – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Filey Fresh Pasta with Tropean Onions – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Spaghetti alla Ragu – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Dessert and Expresso – Le Volpe El Uva Ristorante – Tropea, Italy
Palazzo Teotino Ristorante
This restaurant is housed in an old palazzo and has both indoor and outdoor seating. We sat indoor right in the foyer next to the stairwell. We came here for the Tropean Onion soup that they advertize and found it very rich and tasty. We can also commend the fried onion floret, you get about four when you order them, so enough to share.
Our second day to the Amalfi Coast, we learned that it is a jagged and very difficult area to navigate. Even with a car it is very windy and has only a few, very narrow roads. Cut out of rock, with the only barrier between you and a thousand foot drop, is an eighteen inch thick concrete wall. Most of the time you can take photographs over it from sitting in your vehicle, so aside from the danger, the road offers amazing views of the sea and the coast.
Getting There
There are not many options, aside from bus service and driving. Bus service seems to be a thriving business, but how they negotiate the roads is beyond me. We found it treacherous enough in our private tour van. If you are prone to motion sickness, take your medication before you leave and attempt the drive.
Driving from Chiaia – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Naples, Italy
Coastal Road – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Naples, Italy
Mind The Nap
We used Mind The Nap private tours for a two day tour of several towns and a lemon experience. They picked up us up at our hotel in Chiaia and it took us over an hour to go through Naples and over the mountains to the coast.
Vesuvius – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Naples, Italy
Vico Equense – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
The views on the first part of the drive were all of Naples and the surrounding area. However, once we ascended the steep mountains and crossed over the top, we entered Sorrento and the jagged coast of Amalfi.
Coastal Roads – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Vico Equense – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Lemon Stand – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Patti – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Mile Marker on State Road – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Tordigliano Belvedere – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Tordigliano Belvedere – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Tordigliano Belvedere – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Li Galli Isles – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Getting close to Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Our tour driver Pasquale used SS163, so we approached Positano from the west. This allowed us to stop along the route several times to enjoy the coastline views.
Upper Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Sorrento, Italy
Entering the town – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry Dock and Bay – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Scooters – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Patti – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Erick – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Positano
Positano is a small, but beautiful little seaside town at the end of the Amalfi Coast. It is probably the most charming out of all the towns you will find on the coastline. The Strand, or Beach, is small by italian standard, but is most likely filled during the summer, even though it is mostly rocky and you probably have to use footwear.
Lemon Shops – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
High Cliffs – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Federica, our tour guide – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Map of the area – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Via del Mulini – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Via del Mulini – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Map of Boat Routes – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Boardwalk – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Beach and upper Positano – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Coastline – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
The town is full of stairways and tiny, narrow walkways. In the off-season it is fairly quiet and some of the establishments may not be open until June. Of course, like other places along this coast, you will find a lot of pottery and glassware.
Harlequin – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Pulcinella – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church
One of the more prominent features in town is the church Santa Maria Assunta. It is one of the churches that has a Black Madonna from the thirteenth century Byzantine period.
Entrance Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Tower of Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Santa Maria Assunta Church – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry Service
There is Ferry Service from Positano to other parts of the coast. This can be a very effecient way to visit the other towns along the coast, especially if you do not want to negotiate the treacherous roads.
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Tickets For Two – Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
We took the ferry from Positano to Amalfi, while our tour driver drove the route to the other location. It is highly recommended, since you get a perfect view of the coastline, the towns along and the mountains as a backdrop, at least on a clear day.
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Ferry to Amalfi – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
Restaurants
We didn’t really eat here, but we did stop for a drink. The view from many of the bars on the boardwalk is very relaxing and enjoyable.
Blu Bar
At the Blu Bar we just stopped for drinks, which euphemistically means that we had to use the bathroom. The drinks were fairly high-priced, but the facilities were very clean and well maintained. Not sure I would eat here though, the reviews were not very good.
Patti – Blu Bar – Mind The Nap Private Tour – Amalfi Coast – Positano, Italy
A popular tourist destination for the Swiss, Germans and Netherlanders is the small town of Luino on the northeast end of Lake Maggiore. The boat services on the lake are divided here for destinations north of it and south of it. From the south, especially from Stresa, it is difficult, if not impossible, to arrange a roundtrip to this town except on wednesdays. Even to get here by train is a three to five hour ordeal and roundtrips by rail or bus are all but out of the question. The town is truely lacking service from the southern end of the lake.
Other Boat Leaving – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Luino
It seems a popular destination for people from the north, who are either staying in Switzerland or the nearby town of Cannobio. It is especially busy on Wednesdays, this is when the town holds its weekly market. [1]Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
Wednesday Market Place – Luino, Italy
Hemlock Near Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Luino, Italy
Piazza Risorgimento – Luino, Italy
At one time the town was heavily industrialized and there were many textile factories here, which accounted for the terrible pollution the lake had to endure for years after its demise. Luckily today, the lake has considerably cleaner water that in the previous century.
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Lungolago – Luino, Italy
Getting There
From the north, the map shows all traffic by boat going through Cannobio. From the south, we took the boat from Stresa. From there we stopped a half dozen times before reaching our destination.
Navigation Map – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Stresa Boat Dock – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
It should be noted, if you are traveling from the south and want to go further than Luino, you can, you just may have to change boats in Luino.
Beautiful Day – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Coming Into Our First Stop – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Arriving In Luino – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Our Boat – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
From Stresa the trip is not inexpensive to Luino. For roundtrip tickets it cost us €15.20 per person[2]or about $18 per person.
Tickets For Two – Lake Boat Trip – Luino, Italy
Church of Saints Peter and Paul
A walk through the town and above most if, you will find the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. An unusual church which looks more like an administrative building than a church.
Front And Entrance – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
The inside does have some marble, but the rest of the nave and ceiling are painted in the style trompe-l’œil, giving the impression of relief where none really exists.
Nave – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Altar – Church Of Saints Peter And Paul – Luino, Italy
Restaurants
When we arrived in Luino, we only had three hours before our boat trip back, so we had to make good use of our time. Subsequently, we looked for a place to eat first and chose the Trattoria da Elia e Ugo.
Front – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Trattoria da Elia e Ugo
A small restaurant that caters to locals and tourists alike. They speak very good english, so there should be no problem with the language; they are even willing to look words up in order to make sure they have the correct word.
Entrance – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Patti – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
The food is very good and well portioned. The caprese is rather large and good enough for two. The pasta dishes are also fairly large and well seasoned.
Caprese – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Pasta Special – Trattoria da Elia e Ugo – Via Felice Cavallotti – Luino, Italy
Aside from the popular marketplace on wednesdays and the odd historical monument, there really is not much to see in Lunio. Coming from the south, it can only be commended for the odd day trip with lunch as the primary reason for the expedition, since it is rather far away and the boat service only runs roundtrip on wednesday, so plan accordingly.
Proportedly the largest in Europe, but that is not possible. The one in Turin far eclipses it in size and weekly frequency, being open every day and not just the middle of the week.
About a ten minute train ride from Stresa is the small town and bedroom community of Arona. Its claim to fame, if it has any, would be the La Rocca[1]“The castle” in italian, or the Arona or Borromeo Castle.
Arona
Situated on the southern tail of Lake Maggiore and home to the Arona Castle is the small city of Arona. From the Lungolago, or boardwalk that runs along the lake, it offers a beautiful view of the Angera Castle on the other side of the lake.
Arona Street – Arona, Italy
Arona Street – Arona, Italy
Boat Launch – Arona, Italy
Castle di Angera – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy
Castle di Angera – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy
Piazza Gorizia – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy
Its main thoroughfare is the Via Cavour. Here you will find most of the shopping, with restaurants available on many of its side streets.
Statue – Via Cavour – Arona, Italy
Main shopping street – Via Cavour – Arona, Italy
Main shopping street – Via Cavour – Arona, Italy
Getting There
From Stresa we took the Regional Express, which runs from Milan to Domodossola. The ride takes about ten minutes in the direction of Milan and for this trip costs around €3.30 per person per direction.
Train Station – Arona, Italy
Train Station – Arona, Italy
Train Station – Arona, Italy
Church of San Graziano
Also known as the Santi Martiri is a Roman Catholic chuch in Arona on the hill where Piazza San Graziano is located. We noted the church as we passed by, but did not walk the stairs to enter, since we were on our way back to the train station.
Church of the Martyred Saints of San Graziano – Arona, Italy
Collegiate Church of Arona
The Collegiate Church of Arona is also referred to as the New Church, or the Collegiate Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. It has a long history dating back to the mid fifteenth century and was actually consecrated before its completion, in order to resolve internal issues and from competition with Santi Martiri, which was being built at the same time.
Entrance – Collegiata di Santa Maria Nascente – Arona, Italy
Nave – Collegiata di Santa Maria Nascente – Arona, Italy
Arona Castle
More people come here for the Rocca Park, wherein the castle resides, and not for the castle itself, since there is actually not much of it to see.
Borromeo Castle Park – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
The Rocca, or castle, apparently dates back to the late tenth century and by the eleventh century it had become a military fortification to defend the Milanese territory. From then on, it was fought over by the Torriani, Viscontis and Borromeo families.
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Old Chapel – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Some time in the fifteenth century, the Viscontis family built a hidden stairway from the port to the castle, so that the two could be connected during times of trouble. Parts of which were hewn from solid rock. After the castle was sacked, the stairway remained, though it is currently cordoned off to visitors.
Secret Street – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
It wasn’t until Napoleon Bonaparte arrived, that the castle was completely destroyed and left in ruin.
Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
The park however does command a view of the lake and the town itself. One can also get a good view of the Angera Castle on the other side of the lake, which looks a lot more impressive than the one in Arona.
Arona – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Arona – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Lake Maggiore and Arona – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Lake Maggiore – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
There is a small cafe where you can also stop and get some refreshment and enjoy the views.
Patti at cafe – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy
Restaurants
Sancarlino
A small place with fewer than a dozen tables. It has good food and will get full after about 12:30, so get there early at opening for a seat. While we were eating, they were turning people away.
Enjoying the beautiful weather in Turin, we looked at each other one day and exclaimed it was time to go somewhere local again. Seeing a weather prediction of rain about a week and half out, we decided to travel to Stresa and Lake Maggiore for our Easter weekend. Little did we know, everyone else in Italy, France and Germany was thinking the same thing! So be warned, Easter may be a very busy weekend on the lake.
Patti and the giant Easter Egg – Easter – Regina Palace Hotel – Stresa, Italy
Patti Browsing Scarfs – Stresa, Italy
Stresa
We have been in Stresa before and enjoyed it thoroughly the last time. We rebooked the same hotel for five nights and left Turin, destined for new adventures in this beautiful lake area.
Piazza Luigi Cardona – Stresa, Italy
Via Principe Tomaso – Stresa, Italy
Getting There
From Turin we took the Freccia Rossa from Torino Porta Nuovo to Milan Rho-Fiera and then one of the Regional Express trains to Stresa for a total trip time of about two hours.
The City Streets – Stresa, Italy
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the Regina Palace Hotel again, since we had such a good time on our previous visit. From there we were able to witness a forest fire that broke out on the other side of the lake. It burned for two days and was finally put out with the help of helicopters.
Forest Fire In Laveno – Stresa, Italy
Forest Fire In Laveno – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel
Unfortunately, our booking put us in a rather large room, number 115, which was located right above the bar and almost directly in front of the main stairwell. The noise on our first evening was ridiculous and I did not get to sleep until some time after twelve.
Regina Palace Hotel – Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
The bar plays music from seven in the evening until midnight, and the later it got, the louder it got. So the next morning, I had our room moved to one of the extremities of the hotel, which was much quieter and overall much more enjoyable.
Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Corso Umberto I – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Afternoon View – Stresa, Italy
Regina Palace Hotel – Afternoon View – Stresa, Italy
Lungolago
Stresa has a beautiful boardwalk along the lake. It winds its way along the western side, all the way down to Piazzale Lido, another boat launch on the lake. There is only one short stretch you have to walk along the road, which is where the Borromeo estates are located, since they have complete lake access. Other than that, it’s a fine walk to enjoy the view and take photographs.
Lungolago – Isola Bella – Stresa, Italy
Lungolago – Isola Bella and Pescatore – Stresa, Italy
Water Fountain – Stresa, Italy
Restaurants
Since we have been to Stresa before, our concentration was more on day trips from the location, rather than visiting the city itself. However, we were able to enjoy some restaurants and cafes while we were here.
Il Vicoletto Ristoranti
A typical italian restaurant that serves fine food. The service is good and the meals are well portioned and taste great.
Patti – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Menu – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Erick – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
The desserts are exceptional, from the Almond Torte to the Panna Cotta, and commendable.
Tagliatelli with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Plin Sugo and Sage – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Almond Torte – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Panna cotta al Mojto – Il Vicoletto Ristoranti – Stresa, Italy
Al Buscion
More of a cafe or bistro, this little place has something for everyone. It is one of the few places in Stresa, where you will find more than one kind of soup being served. It is more known for its charcuterie boards and paninis, than anything else, though we never had the chance to order one.
Menu – Al Buscion Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Inside – Al Buscion Cafe – Stresa, Italy
La Piola
If you like finer dining, then look no further than La Piola.
Patti – La Piola Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Inside – La Piola Cafe – Stresa, Italy
We thoroughly enjoyed the food here, though we didn’t order any dessert. The pasta dish was excellent and very tasty, and Patti enjoyed here Chicken Cutlet as well.
Filetto of Chicken – La Piola Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Spaghetti – La Piola Cafe – Stresa, Italy
El Gato Negro Cafe
We stopped at El Gato Negro for a late lunch and glad we did. They have very tasty soups, salads and sandwiches at very reasonable prices. The pastrami sandwich, though not like pastrami in the States, was delicious. It had an exceptional dressing on it that complimented the tomatoes, lettuce and pastrami to perfection.
Terrace – El Gato Negro Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Pastrami sandwich – El Gato Negro Cafe – Stresa, Italy
Il Centrale
Though inside the city a bit, it is more of a tourist trap restaurant than any of the other ones we have patronized. If you are looking for something to eat, you cannot go wrong here, but it is definitely nothing special.
Placesetting – El Gato Negro Cafe – Stresa, Italy
The food is okay and the service is a bit slow. But for what you get, we found them a bit pricey and the coperto[1]This is a cover charge in Italy. It is suppose to offset the fee of table linens, cutlery, napkins, etc., and is applied unevenly throughout the country. It will most often be found in tourist areas, … Continue reading was a bit high for our liking.
Plin al sugo and Salad – Il Centrale – Stresa, Italy
This is a cover charge in Italy. It is suppose to offset the fee of table linens, cutlery, napkins, etc., and is applied unevenly throughout the country. It will most often be found in tourist areas, where the establishments can get away with charging it. If so, DO NOT leave a tip, you’re covered.
Like the British, the Danes are steeped in the tradition of a royal family. With Copenhagen as the capitol of the country, there are numerous castles and palaces that demonstrate the royal family’s hold on the country and its citizens and I guess their imaginations.
The Royal Family
The family owns, either directly or indirectly, three important landmarks within the city of Copenhagen that are castles or palaces. Much has been turned into museum or tourist attraction, no doubt to keep the family coffers full. Some, like Amalienborg, the royal residence, are guarded and entertain a changing of the guard show.
The Palaces
The are many palaces in Copenhagen, perhaps a bit too many to see in one trip. There are the Amalienborg – which contains four palaces, Christriansborg Palace which are right in town, but there is also Frederiksberg Palace and more further out from the city. If you are into grand buildings and royal history, these will probably be must-see spots.
Amalienborg
The current residence of the royal family is in Amalienborg. This palace occupies are large square in almost four city square blocks. It is divided into four distinct buildings with gardens, one of which is the Amalienborg Palace Museum, which may be visited. Each building is a palace in its own right, they are Christian VII’s Palace, Christian VIII’s Palace, Frederick VIII’s Palace and Christian IX’s Palace.
Amalienborg Slotsplads – Copenhagen, Denmark
Changing of the Guard – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Amalienborg was once the location of two other palaces which either suffered greatly from fire, or burnt to the ground completely. Subsequent construction led to the building of the palaces we see today.
Tickets For Two – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Another chandelier – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Diorama of Christian IX Palace – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
The rooms – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
The rooms – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
The rooms – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
The museum is free to those who enter with a City Card, otherwise the entrance fee is kr.120 (appr. €16)/person. The museum is in a building adjacent to Christian VII’s Palace and has two floors that contain items from the living quarters of past and present royal family members. If you have any transcendent ideas about ownership or property, you may want to skip this museum. I too, had a difficult time understanding why anyone would want to collect that much stuff for personal use. But, I am probably in the minority.
Desk, pipes and photographs – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal family photographs – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Furniture and other family items – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
More photographs – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Other furniture – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
A different perspective – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
More royal items – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Library – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal children – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal children – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
1869 Study – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal silver – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Hen in the Egg – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
More royal items – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Lastly, there is a collection of the royal medals and other accoutrements, here is a short slideshow on them.
Order of Chivalry – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dannebrog Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Elephant Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal Orders of Chivalry – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Medal of Recompense – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dannebrog Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dannebrog Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Dannebrog Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Elephant Order – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Elephant’s Order and Chamberlain’s Key – Amalienborg Palace Museum – Copenhagen, Denmark
Christiansborg Palace
Today, Christiansborg Palace not only houses museums and other tourist attractions, but it is also the seat of Danish Government. All three branches of government are represented in the Palace. The palace contains horse stables, an old kitchen and the royal reception rooms, all of which can be visited free with the City Card, or kr.155 (about €9)/person.
Front – Christiansborg Palace – Copenhagen, Denmark
Originally constructed as Absalon’s Castle, it has been sacked, demolished and burnt to the ground numerous times. In fact, on one occasion it was dismantled brick by brick. Nevertheless, the Danes have always rebuilt some palace structure here, no doubt a testament to their fortitude. To date, there have been at least five reincarnations of the structure. The basement contains an archeological site showing the ancient remains for the first palace and perhaps foundations of even older structures.
Be aware, some venues require that you book a time slot, even if you have a City Card. This can be done online, or by showing up at the ticket office and scheduling your visit. The City Card does explain this on the venue’s information site if you click on it.
Rosenborg Castle
As far as castles go, Rosenborg Castle is a fairly small one on the northwest edge of King’s Garden. It was built in Danish Renaissance style in the 1600s as a summer place for King Frederik IV.
Tickets For Two – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Entrance – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Rear Entrance – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The building has very elaborate ceilings, some of which appear to be in the Rococo style.
Rococo ceiling – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Of particular interest is the Danish Throne Chair with the three stately lions in front. The chairs are on the third floor on what used to be called the “Long Hall”, it is now called the “King’s Hall”.
The Long Room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Royal Table – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Coronation Chair – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Royal Throne – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
There are also several timepieces and at least one Astrolabe of special note.
Large Brass Timepiece – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Large Brass Timepiece – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Astrolabe – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Another Interesting Timepiece – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The rest may be enjoyed in the following slideshow.
The Winter Room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Winter Room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Fireplace – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Ceiling, Winter Room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Diorama – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal toilet – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Writing room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Dark room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Interesting chest – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Marble Chamber – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Collections – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Collections – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Christian’s V Chamber – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Stone Corridor – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Mirror Cabinet – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The Bronze room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Another Clock – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Sitting room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Sitting room – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
King’s Gardens
The castle also has the “King’s Garden”, a complex of garden paths and interesting things to see that the former residence could enjoy.
The King’s Garden – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The King’s Garden – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The King’s Garden – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
The King’s Garden – The Rosenborg Castle – Copenhagen, Denmark
Restaurants
On The Sunny Side Italian Restaurant
A very good Italian restaurant on the Nyhavn canal which offers good food and has a decent wine list. A bit pricey, but you are on the canal, and what isn’t pricey in Copenhagen?
Pizza – On The Sunny Side – Copenhagen, Denmark
Wine – On The Sunny Side – Copenhagen, Denmark
Fredco’s Deli
A very small establishment on Grønnegade street which provides a very reasonably priced lunch menu that does include salads. Here you can select from a variety of things for your salad, including dressings. Though a bit on the basic side, if you are tired of eating meat based meals every time you sit down, this might be the stop for you. The interior is in the basement and is very utilitarian in look and feel, but you should be able to find a place to sit and enjoy your lunch.