Kraków, Poland – Part Three

Our final day in Kraków was seeing some interesting things we didn’t get a chance to see yet. Luckily the weather improved and we had excellent conditions, since the weather in Poland can be somewhat unpredictable.

Kraków

A medium sized city that is very well planned and maintained. Whoever is running the town is doing an excellent job, from the university integration, the city park that almost surrounds the town, its cleanliness, to all of the museums and attractions that are available to visitors. It has become one of our favorite places to visit.

Wawel Royal Castle

A large complex to the south of town that forms that last part of the park that surrounds the city. The Wawel Royal Castle is perched on a small hill, Wawel Hill, that has a commanding view of the Vistula River and the surrounding countryside.

The castle has a multitude of museums and attractions to see inside and any visitor may purchase entry to any of them either à la carte, or by pre-priced packages. For our visit we chose the à la carte method, since we only wanted to see the Second Floor Museum, the Danish Tower Museum and the Dragon’s Den.

Courtyard – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Second Floor Museum

Unlike the First Floor Museum, this museum has artwork, tapestries and other artifacts of artistic worth.

Virgin and Child – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Old Ceramic Stove – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Ceiling – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Biblical Scenes – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Tapestries – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Plate Collection – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Armchair 16/17th century – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Men fighting bronze – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Istoriato Maiolica ceramic – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Busts – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Tapestry in Throne room – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Mosaic in Throne room – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Interesting Painting – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

More Paintings – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Painting – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Fireplace – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Old Italian Cabinet – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Ebony cabinet with rosewood – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Birchwood Cabinet – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Portrait King Sigismund III – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Eagle Room – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Even the rooms are of some interest. The rather large Senators Room being clad in a treated gilded leather.

Senators’ Hall – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Gilt Leather wall covering – Senators’ Hall – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Ottoman Tent Exhibit

At the end of the Second Floor Museum was a fascinating exhibit on tents from the Ottoman Dynasty. Most of these were captured during the battles with them during the First World War and used by the counterparts during those campaigns.

Turkish Ottoman Tent Selection – Second Floor Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Danish Tower Museum

Here you can learn a little more of the types of wares that were made and traded in the area. From childrens clay toys to pipes, the bottom parts of the tower holds a museum full of old crafts.

Courtyard – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Apothecary Display – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Coins – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Inkwells, compass – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Small jars and pipes – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Pipes – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Toys and Child Shoes – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Pipe and Clay Piggy – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Clay Piggybank – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Then after you are done enjoying all the exhibits the tower offers a nice view of the Vistula, the rest of the castle and surrounding area.

City Overview – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Old Tower – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Roof – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Courtyard – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Tower – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Towers part of the castle – Danish Tower Museum – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Dragon’s Den

A must stop for kids and others interested in the myth and legend of the dragon of Wawel Castle, the Dragon’s Den cave offers a cooling respite along with some fun.

Entrance – Dragon’s Den – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Cave – Dragon’s Den – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Exit – Dragon’s Den – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

Patti – Dragon’s Den – Wawel Royal Castle – Kraków, Poland

There is even a media representation of Smok Wawelski lurking within the cave, which should motivate most young visitors to leave.

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Kraków_51_WawelRoyalCastle_22_DragonsDen_16

Kraków_51_WawelRoyalCastle_22_DragonsDen_17

Town Hall Tower

The Town Hall Tower off on one corner of the great plaza in town is also open to scale for a price. There are two or three floors seperated by very narrow stairs that must be negotiated with people going in both directions.

Town Hall and Tower Bronze – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

First Level – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Entrance and Stairs – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Stairs – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

However, aside from the few exhibits that are contained on each floor, the top is not open and you must take photographs through plexi-glass. I found the most interesting thing there to be the clock mechanism.

Second Level – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

House of Vasa – Second Level – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Wawel Castle – Top Level – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Old Iron Door – Top Level – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Going Down – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Narrow Stairwell – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Timepiece – Top Level – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Clockworks and Timepiece – Top Level – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Clockworks and Old Bell Striker – Top Level – Town Hall Tower – Kraków, Poland

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Mary’s Basilica

Unfortunately for us we visited on Sunday, so mass was being held and we had limited access to Saint Mary’s Basilica. Though the nave was somewhat interesting, it was clearly not the most beautiful nor the most interesting Catholic church we have visited in Poland.

Nave and Altar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Kraków, Poland

Side Altar – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Kraków, Poland

Bronze Memorial – Saint Mary’s Basilica – Kraków, Poland

muWi Stained Glass Museum

Entrance – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

For those that have extra time on their hands, the muWi Stained Glass Museum is a great way to spend an hour. Here you will learn how this old establishment designs, cuts, paints, arranges and solders together amazing stained glass windows.

Glass Cutting and Colors – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Inventory – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Awards – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Patterns and Cutting Glass – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Cut Glass – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Patterns and Templates – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Example Designs – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Religious Motifs – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Works in Progress – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Hallway – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Overview of Shop – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

There is also a great history lesson regarding some of the designers and accomplished artists who have worked here as well. The second part of the tour takes you upstairs where the works are given their finishing touches and fired each night.

Painting and Patina Application – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Painting Results – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Old Lost Work Found Again – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Color Palet – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Kiln – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Finally, there are displays of work that have either been refound in the cellar, or recreated from old designs. All of these were from two of their most famous designers and stained glass makers.

Stefan Matejko 50th Anniversary – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Stefan Matejko Design – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Stanislav Wyspianski Design – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Apollo in the Making with the Planets – Stanislav Wyspianski Design – muWi Stained Glass Museum – Kraków, Poland

Restaurants

One last thought on restaurants in Kraków and Poland in general. At this writing we consider them just as exspensive as in the States. Yes, there are certainly some places you can go and things you can order to minimize your food exspenses, but you can do that in the States as well. One additional comment, few restaurants allow or enable their guests to add a tip to the check. So, if you want to leave one, you should have cash on you. In most cases, since we are coming from Italy where it is not done except in tourist areas, we don’t leave one, though that is probably not the generally accepted behavior.

Gospoda Koko

This restaurant was a surprise find. Gospoda Koka is a rather off-beat establishment that actually had good food and service that we thoroughly enjoyed for lunch. They have very good soups and their Polish Cabbage Side Salad for only 7 Zloty(under $2) is highly recommended.

Inside – Gospoda Koko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland

Today’s Menu – Gospoda Koko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland

Patti Inside – Gospoda Koko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland

Chicken Noodle Soup – Gospoda Koko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland

Patti’s Soup – Gospoda Koko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland

Morskie Oko

Another visit to Morskie Oko for lunch this time gave us the opportunity to try other fare. Patti tried the Stuffed Cabbage while I ordered the Pork Shank with Potatoes.

Decor – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland

Pork Shank and Potatoes, Cabbage Salad and Galumpki – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland

Sour Cherry Vodka Liqueur – Morskie Oko Restaurant – Kraków, Poland

Nasza Rzeka Bar

A converted boat on the Vistula, the Nasza Rzeka Bar is an excellent choice for a noon time drink, especially during good weather. The upper deck is a perfect place to enjoy the view of the river and recharge.

Patti – Nasza Rzeka Bar – Vistula River – Kraków, Poland

Wawel Castle – Vistula River – Kraków, Poland

19 July, 2026

Kraków, Poland – Part Two

Though not a large city, Kraków still has enough to see to warrant more that a few posts. There are that many museums, attractions and interesting things that you can easily fill up more than a few days. This is why we spent four nights here, and probably could have spent more with all of the day trips that are also at your disposal.

Kraków

This part contains less churches and more museums. Of course we had some time to amble through town once or twice, but since we only had a half day to see what we could, the other half being consumed by our Salt Mine tour, we saw what we could in the time alotted.

Museums

Below are the museums we visited that were very close to our hotel and hold special importance in the history, culture and defense of the city.

Barbican

The fortified outpost just outside Saint Florian’s Gate is the Barbican. The name is actually derived by a fortified outpost of the same and was once attached via a wall to the Florian Gate and the defensive walls of the city.

Diorama – Showing Defensive Walls and Barbican Integration – Kraków, Poland

The entrance to the Barbican is actually in line with Florian Gate, the entrance that would have normally spanned the moat now acts as the exit.

Iron works – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

Three holes of unknown use – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

A ticket will give you access to the ramparts and each lookout tower. Since its main purpose was an outpost, any activity that was seen was reported back to the city via the old wall that used to connect it to the defensive walls. Surrounded by moats before and after it and three meter walls, its defenses were adequate enough to sound the alarm of an attack.

Courtyard – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

Parapets – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

Patti – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

Inside Pathway – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

Stairs on Path – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

Florian’s Gate – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

Details – Barbican Museum – Kraków, Poland

Kraków Defensive Walls

The Defensive Wall Museum contains four towers and a small section of the old wall that still survives. The towers are: Saint Florian’s, Haberdashers, Joiners and Carpenters.

Winch – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

The walls had others and most are marked by stones along the walking path of the park that surrounds the town.

Entrance – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

Watch your head – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

Stairs – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

Erick – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

Patti – Internal pathway – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

Internal pathway – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

Pijarska Street – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

Saint Florians Gate Tower

The Florian Gate actually contains a small chapel at the gate level and another one at the rampart level. The gate stands over the street by the same name and is one of the major entries into the old town.

Chapel – Defensive Walls – Kraków, Poland

Florian’s Gate – Florianska Street – Kraków, Poland

Rynek Underground

This underground museum captures the feeling and historical elements of the old Cloth Hall that once stood on the site. The current installment of the Cloth Hall, complete with souvenir shops, is built over top of it.

Access to the site is via a stairwell and upon entry the visitor is met with a colorful exhibit of the Witness Colum.

Entry Exhibits – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Witness Colum – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Old Water Pump System – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Water System – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Old Book – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Video Exhibits – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Old Silver Clasps – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Silver Artifacts – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Steel Saw Blades – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Shoes – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Steel Implements – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Toys – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Rings – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Other exhibits include models of old stalls that shop keepers would sell everything from cloth, to trinkets and other necessities.

Blacksmith Shop – Cloth Mall – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Stall Roof – Cloth Mall – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Foot Bridge – Cloth Mall Road – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Cloth Mall Road – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Old Timbers and Cloth Mall Road – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Near the end of the museum and walk-through is a long hall that contains several interesting video shows on different aspects of the history of the Rynek.

Boleslaw Stalls – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Ruts left in cobblestones by wagons – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Stalls – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Old Foundation – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

The Dig – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Sewer Pipe – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Buried Horse – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Old Walls – Rynek Underground Museum – Kraków, Poland

Churches And Cathedrals

Saint Florian’s Church

Located outside the old town through the Saint Florian’s Gate off of the Jana Matejki Plaza is the eponymous church. It has a beautiful interior and altar.

Altar – Saint Florian’s Church – Kraków, Poland

Side Altar – Saint Florian’s Church – Kraków, Poland

Aisle – Saint Florian’s Church – Kraków, Poland

Madonna Side Altar – Saint Florian’s Church – Kraków, Poland

Mary – Saint Florian’s Church – Kraków, Poland

Nave – Saint Florian’s Church – Kraków, Poland

Last Supper – Saint Florian’s Church – Kraków, Poland

1 July, 20267 July, 2026

Parma, Italy – Pilotta Pleasures

Approximately two to two and a half hours away from our place in Turin is the city of Parma. Known for ham, cheese and other delicacies in the region, we had been wanting to go there for some time. Our recent visit was for us full of surprises, including the Pilotta Museum Complex, which was a pleasure for us and central to this post.

Parma

At first we were not too sure about the city. Our first impressions, and to some extent our lasting ones as well, is that it is laid out in a chaotic fashion, even for an Italian town. The mixture of new and old on the outskirts is not very pleasing to the eye and is kind of takes away from the central historic part of the city, which frankly is not very large.

The Parma river as well, suffers from drought and over-irrigation, a mere trickle of its former self. Called a torrente in Italian, or torrent, one can only wonder when the last time the river actually enjoyed that much water.

Torrente Parma – Ponte Caprazucca – Parma, Italy

The city does not suffer from tourism and we found the historic parts very pleasant to walk around. There is not much to see, hence our reason for visiting the museums, which we found different and interesting.

Bronze Statue of Niccolò Paganini – Piazzale Arrigo Boito – Parma, Italy

Getting There

We took the FrecciaRossa train from Turin to Milan, then the Regional from Milan to Parma. The regional trains make more stops than the high speed trains, taking an extra half hour to make the hour long trip by high speed rail. The good news is, there are options between Milan and Parma, from FrecciaRossa, Italo, TrenItalia FTP to TrenNord and perhaps more. Our selection was based on scheduling and nothing else.

Strada Cavour

The main street for shopping in the city. It was about a ten minute walk from our hotel and winds its way through the older part of the city, though all of the businesses are modern. You will find all the modern, trendy and chain-like stores here, along with their inflated prices.

Hotel Stendhal

We stayed at the Hotel Stendhal, a fifteen minute direct walk from the train station. Though we read some concerning reviews on some travel sites, we did not have any issues at all and had the most enjoyable stay. The staff was great and we never had to ask for anything. We had a large superior room on the side of the hotel which was very quiet and comfortable, along with a complimentary breakfast.

Outside Our Hotel – Cortile del Guazzatoio – Parma, Italy

Entrance – Hotel Stendhal – Parma, Italy

Pilotta Museum Complex

The Pilotta Museum Complex is the former Faranese Palace that now houses five or six museums, some of which were not open at the time of our visit.

Ponte Verdi – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Tickets For Two – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Entrance – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Parma

The archeological museum offers artifacts from the ancient history in and around Parma. Here are exhibits of the ancient civilizations of the Roman Empire, Greeks and Etruscans who inhabited the Po river valley and the surrounding area thousands of years ago.

Archaeological Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

The museum also has a display of ancient Roman tombs, including sarcophogy and examples of mummified remains.

Farnese Theater

The Farnese Theater is actually a rather bizarre construction. Built within a very large room of the palace is a theater that was constructed quickly, in order to entertain some political majistrate of the Medici family. However, the event never took place and subsequent to it completion, it was only used eight or nine times.

Seating and Main Theater – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Patti – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Cherubs – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Diorama – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

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Parma_34_Pilotta_04_TeatroFarneseMuseum_19

It eventually succumbed to allied bombings in the mid 1940s and was almost completely destroyed and then rebuilt later, for cultural reasons. Though none of the plaster exterior has never been replaced, as is evident by the missing ceiling, it still enjoys a woddy charm. Luckily, the old frescoes survived and can still be seen today.

Structure – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Stage Structure – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Seating Structure – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Backstage Elements – Farnese Theater – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Galleria Nazionale di Parma

The entrance to the National Gallery is flanked by two huge statues. One of Dionysus and the other or Hercules. They are both impressive in their own right, with the one of Hercules looking like it is right on the boundary of the human anatomy.

Hercules – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Dionysus – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

The rest of the gallery houses a myriad of large paintings in its large hall. Unfortunately there are no benches or seating to admire them, so one can only slowly walk by or stand in front of them for a bit, in order to admire them.

Main Room – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

As of this writing, the back of the gallery held the real prize for a visitor, a work by Leonardo da Vinci called the head of a woman, or “La Scapiliata”. One can see similarities with her face and that of the Mona Lisa, which was painted some time after and is now in the Louvre in Paris, France.

Head of a Woman “La Scapiliata” – Leonardo da Vinci, Vinci, 1452 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Madonna of the Bowl, Rest after the Return from Egypt – Antonio Allegri detto il Correggio, 1489 – National Gallery – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Palatina Library

The Palatina Library is a large library that is still functioning, although for academic and research purposes only. However, the Petitot Gallery is still open to the public, where one can find a wide variety of topics, mostly in Italian of course.

Art Exhibits in Entrance – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

One Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Old Books – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Side Hall – Palatina Library – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

The Bodoni Museum

Anyone who has taken typesetting in school would enjoy the Bodoni Museum. The museum honors the famous Parma typesetter and printer, Giambattista Bodoni, and his eponymous typeface as well. The Bodoni typeface was a favorite of mine in high school, where I learned the intricacies of setting type. I loved its clean lines and serifs, using it to print a set of invitations for my mother at one time^[1]To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and … Continue reading.

Bodoni Bust and Painting – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Printing Press – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Stories of Punching and Printing – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Typesetting Examples – Bodoni Museum – Pillota Museum Complex – Parma, Italy

Restaurants

You will find most of the non-industrial restaurants away from the main shopping street of Strada Cavour. Reservations are recommended, even for lunch, for these are often used by locals and the business crowd. Most of the Osterias and Trattorias serve wine by the tap in quarter, half and full liter sizes, whereas the corporate restaurants on Cavour serve only by the glass, so they can up-charge for it, like in the United States.

Osteria dei Servi

The Osteria dei Servi is actually housed under the Viale Giovanni Mariotti and has a rather odd entrance. But don’t let that fool you. The restaurant is actually quite nice inside and comfortable. The food is excellent and typical for the area.

Entrance – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Inside – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Patti – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Bread and Patti’s Dinner – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Ravioli – Osteria die Servi – Parma, Italy

Trattoria Corrieri Parma

Another fine local restaurant is the Trattoria Corrieri Parma. Located further down in the city and by a Parma University building, it offers great food at even lower prices than die Servi. We found the service similar and the menu full of local dishes for us to try.

Krim Kram Inside – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Patti – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Pasta with Eggs and Chicken Livers – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Cappelletti al Ragu di Strolghina – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Torta Susanna – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

Sorbetto – Trattoria Corrieri – Parma, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	To use the museum’s own words, “The severe, neoclassical imprint of the letters, characterized by the stark contrast between the thickness of the strokes and the thinness of the lines and serifs; the stark, epigraphic composition of the title pages and dedications; the airy, correct relationship between text and images, between line and line, between light and dark make Bodoni’s page a prodigy of harmony and readability.“

28 April, 20268 May, 2026

Reggio Calabria, Italy – Calabrian Classic

If anyone travels all the way down to the very tip of Italy they will discover Reggio Calabria, a Calabrian city with all the classic touches of Southern Italy. Offshore, you will see the ever present Mount Etna smoking in the background.

Getting There And Back

To get there we took TrennItalia’s Calabrian Regional train service from Tropea. Approximately a two hour train ride that eventually hugs the coast and offers a preview of the Italian island of Sicily.

Our First View of Sicily – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Messina Ferry – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

Coming Into Reggio Calabria – Train Ride – Calabria, Italy

To get back we used Reggio Calabria’s airport, where RyanAir offers direct service to Turin’s Caselle Airport. Another trip just short of two hours which also hugs the coast of Italy and also offers views of Sardinia and other prominent points of interest from the air.

Reggio Calabria

The official name for the city is Reggio Calabria, but it is also known by its traditional names of Reggio di Calabria and just plain Reggio. The city was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in the beginning of the last century and its more hopefully robust version has new amenities the former city lacked.

Large Banyan Trees – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Corso Garibaldi – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Piazza d’Italia – Reggio Calabria, Italy

If you love food, visit the shops along Corso Garibaldi. Many have interesting and local foods that you can bring home with you to enjoy, while you reminisce about your time in Calabria.

Calabrian Volcanic Spread – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Just up from our hotel and on the transformed via Giudecca street, is the eponymous stairway.

Giudecca Stairway – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Torrine Hotel

On the edge of the older and more vibrant part of the city, the Torrine Hotel is about four blocks from the waterfront. This is just as well, since it provides a quieter place to stay, with the exception being rush hour; it is located on a busy one-way thoroughfare through the city that buses frequent. Our room came with breakfast, a mixture of continental with some warm food thrown in.

Breakfast – Hotel Torrione – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Lungomare

The city has an extensive waterfront and a beautiful Lungomare to go with it. Near the end of it, in the urban park, you will find a nice long sign with the city’s name where you can take memorable photographs.

Beach – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Looking North – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Erick by City Sign – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

There are several points of interest along the boardwalk and a leisurely stroll along it will eventually bring you to all of them.

Abandoned Boats – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Wave Science Experiment – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Unknown Statue – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Somewhere near the end, down by the Roman Baths, Patti found the Big Bench. Apparently just installed, since it had no placename on it yet.

Patti finds the Big Bench – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Monumento Della Vittoria

From our hotel on Via Giula, almost directly down the street and on the waterfront and Lungomare, is the Monumento della Vittoria. It is a monument erected for Italy’s World War I victory and Victor Emmanuele III, which also has replica of the Statue of Athena Promachos inside it.

Arena del Stretto – Lungomare – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Roman Baths

Along the Lungomare is a site of old Roman baths from antiquity.

Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo

A large cathedral in the Piazza Duomo is the Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo. It was partially destroyed in the 1908 earthquake and rebuilt with a fusion of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

Bronze Doors – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Aisle – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Clerestory by Entry – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The most interesting interior element of the cathedral is its ceiling. A timbered edifice that is remarqued and painted in a most interesting style, including pagan elements which appear to be handpainted.

Nave – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Nave’s Ceiling – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Crossing – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Urn – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Altar and Apse – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Organ in Transept – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Side Chapel – Basilica di Maria Santissima Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Duomo – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Castello Aragonese

The Castle Aragonese no longer functions as a castle and has been renovated into something more useful, an art museum. Here for a small fee you are able to enjoy two galleries, one in each tower.

Tickets For Two – Entry to Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Patti on South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

North Tower Gallery

During our visit this gallery had an exhibit of modern paintings, most of which bright colors were used in an almost three dimensional approach.

Art Collection – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

South Tower Gallery

While we were visiting this tower housed a collection of art known as Voci senza Volto, or Voices without a Face. An effective and provocitive collection of art, which appears part surreal and part dystopian and gets the viewer to think about signs of struggle, longing and hardship. This was the high point of the trip for me.

Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Being Neutral Serves No One – Voci senza Volto Art Exhibit – South Tower – Castello Aragonese – Piazza Castello – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Villas And Palazzos

There are a few villas and palazzos of import in the city.

Villa Genoese Zerbi

A beautiful Venetian Art Nouveau style building on the Corso Emanuele is the villa of Genoese Zerbi. The original was destroyed in the great quake, but it was completely restored and now is one of the main charms of the city.

Palazzos Spinelli and Giuffrè

These two palazzos are side by side on the Corso Emanuele by the waterfront. Both appear to need some work. Palazzo Spinelli offers a great example of Calabrian architecture and Art Nouveau, or the liberty style.

Palazzo Spinelli – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Palazzo Giuffrè on the other hand offers a more mundane example, and is reminiscent of other buildings you will find in other large Italian cities.

Palazzo Giuffri – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Restaurants

Drogheria Culinaria

Using its former name for the grocery store the family used to own, it now serves food and drinks. It has a decent wine list, with several good varietals by the glass.

Inside – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

The food is also pretty good and you will definitely be able to find something to slake your appetite at this establishment.

Meatballs, Bread with Hot ‘Nduja and Wine – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Pat’s Spaghettone and Erick’s Tagliotella, both with Pork Ragú sauce – Drogheria Culinaria Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante

One of the restaurants in the area that is highly recommended for local Calabrian dishes is the Le Vie Del Gusto Ristorante. Located on via Reggio Campi and via II Dezembre, this small little restaurants attacts all the locals, so have your reservation in hand before leaving your hotel or place of stay.

Old Citroen – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Everything we tried had that home cooking taste without any loss to attention to detail. The Stufato is highly recommended and will melt in your mouth.

Menu – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura with Coleslaw – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Cavatelli al Sugo di Capra – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Stufato di Maialino a bassa Temperatura – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

While we were there a local class was having their end of year party, so noise levels were through the roof. However, it was still enjoyable, especially watching the children eating all that food. Made me remember how hungry I used to be as a school kid.

End of Year Lunch for Children – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Fennel Aperativo with Expresso – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

Tartufo – Le Vie del Gusto Ristorante – Reggio Calabria, Italy

7 April, 202611 April, 2026

Arona, Italy – Rocca Repose

About a ten minute train ride from Stresa is the small town and bedroom community of Arona. Its claim to fame, if it has any, would be the La Rocca^[1]“The castle” in italian, or the Arona or Borromeo Castle.

Arona

Situated on the southern tail of Lake Maggiore and home to the Arona Castle is the small city of Arona. From the Lungolago, or boardwalk that runs along the lake, it offers a beautiful view of the Angera Castle on the other side of the lake.

Castle di Angera – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy

Piazza Gorizia – Lake Maggiore – Arona, Italy

Its main thoroughfare is the Via Cavour. Here you will find most of the shopping, with restaurants available on many of its side streets.

Main shopping street – Via Cavour – Arona, Italy

Getting There

From Stresa we took the Regional Express, which runs from Milan to Domodossola. The ride takes about ten minutes in the direction of Milan and for this trip costs around €3.30 per person per direction.

Church of San Graziano

Also known as the Santi Martiri is a Roman Catholic chuch in Arona on the hill where Piazza San Graziano is located. We noted the church as we passed by, but did not walk the stairs to enter, since we were on our way back to the train station.

Church of the Martyred Saints of San Graziano – Arona, Italy

Collegiate Church of Arona

The Collegiate Church of Arona is also referred to as the New Church, or the Collegiate Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. It has a long history dating back to the mid fifteenth century and was actually consecrated before its completion, in order to resolve internal issues and from competition with Santi Martiri, which was being built at the same time.

Entrance – Collegiata di Santa Maria Nascente – Arona, Italy

Nave – Collegiata di Santa Maria Nascente – Arona, Italy

Arona Castle

More people come here for the Rocca Park, wherein the castle resides, and not for the castle itself, since there is actually not much of it to see.

The Rocca, or castle, apparently dates back to the late tenth century and by the eleventh century it had become a military fortification to defend the Milanese territory. From then on, it was fought over by the Torriani, Viscontis and Borromeo families.

Old Chapel – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

Some time in the fifteenth century, the Viscontis family built a hidden stairway from the port to the castle, so that the two could be connected during times of trouble. Parts of which were hewn from solid rock. After the castle was sacked, the stairway remained, though it is currently cordoned off to visitors.

Secret Street – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

It wasn’t until Napoleon Bonaparte arrived, that the castle was completely destroyed and left in ruin.

The park however does command a view of the lake and the town itself. One can also get a good view of the Angera Castle on the other side of the lake, which looks a lot more impressive than the one in Arona.

Lake Maggiore and Arona – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

Lake Maggiore – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

There is a small cafe where you can also stop and get some refreshment and enjoy the views.

Patti at cafe – Borromeo Castle – Arona, Italy

Restaurants

Sancarlino

A small place with fewer than a dozen tables. It has good food and will get full after about 12:30, so get there early at opening for a seat. While we were eating, they were turning people away.

Patti – Sancarlino Ristorante – Arona, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	“The castle” in italian

20 September, 20253 October, 2025

Montreux, Switzerland – Lake Stroll

Lake Leman Stroll

From our hotel the Quai de Clarens extends to the left and right. Taking a left while leaving, it turns into the Quai de Vernex within a short time and then it has many other monikers. For an early morning September stroll it is a very picturesque and beautiful walk along the lake, being well maintained by the authorities.

Quai Alfred Chatelanat – Walk To Castle Chillon – Montreaux, Switzerland

Eventually, as you pass the towns of Montreux and Veytaux, it will turn into the Quai Alfred Chatelanat. It is here you will see the Castle or Chateau de Chillon.

Quai Alfred Chatelanat – Castle Chillon – Montreaux, Switzerland

Getting There

To get to Castle Chillon there are many options. One preferrable one, since the walk along the Quai is fairly long, at least a couple of miles, is taking the boat. It docks at several places and has a rather spotty schedule, so check the authorities and the schedule at your location prior to depending upon it. It does however dock just below the castle and had arrived as we were on our tour of it.

Castle Chillon – Lake Boat Embarking – Montreaux, Switzerland

You can also take the bus. This is probably the easiest option and there are numerous bus stops along the way. The 201 from Clarens to Veytaux comes every half hour. We chose this option to return to our hotel. Tickets can be purchases on the SBB mobile application.

Chateau de Chillon

The Castle Chillon was originally built by the Savoy family and has had many different functions since it was first erected. It can be seen in the distance for some time before one notices the gun casement that guards it to the north.

Quai Alfred Chatelanat – Castle Chillon – Gun Casement – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Lake Leman – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Lake Moat – Montreaux, Switzerland

The castle has a number of rooms dedicated to particular themes. Each has a unique story to tell, as well as furnishing that were used in the past by the residents. The following were taken while touring the inside of the castle.

Castle Chillon – Interior Ward or Courtyard – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Constable’s Dining Hall – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Trunk Room – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Large Cabinets – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Bernese Chamber – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – One of the Great Halls – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Coats of Arms Room – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Coats of Arms Room, Chairs – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Bathing Room – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Bathing Room, Tub – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Roof Architecture – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Chapel – Montreaux, Switzerland

Castle Chillon – Outside View From Castle – Montreaux, Switzerland

24 May, 2025

Turin, Italy – La Venaria Reale

Reggia di Venaria Reale was a royal residence and palace to the northwest of Turin, Italy. It was one of more that a dozen residences of the Savoy family. It was abondoned after the Napoleonic Wars and later became a military post and barracks and subsequently slowly fell into disrepair and abandonment. After a major restoration, it finally opened to the public in 2007 as a musuem and tourist attraction.

La Venaria Reale – Map of Complex – Turin, Italy

Getting There

The easiest was to get there from Turin is to take one of the SFM trains from Porta Susa towards the Turin Airport. Many of these trains stop at Venaria Station and it only takes about fifteen to twenty minutes and costs about €3.50 per person. We often use the phone application and do not book a round-trip ticket, since you never know how long you might stay, especially if you are planning for lunch as well.

Porta Susa – Leaving for Venaria – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Train Station at Venaria – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Military Monument – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Via Andrea Mensa – Turin, Italy

The Palace

The palace is actually in two pieces, the original Palace of Diana from the seventeenth century in white stucco with a white clock tower and the latter eighteenth century addition in raw brick with the Belvedere Tower, where you enter.

La Venaria Reale – Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Clock Tower, Piazza della Repubblica – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Via Castelmonte – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Noble Families, La Reggia – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Museum, La Reggia – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Art Room, La Reggia – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Castle Diorama, La Reggia – Turin, Italy

The Grand Gallery

Probably the most striking room and the pinnacle of the visit, the Grand Gallery is part of the Palace of Diana and a core piece of the original palace.

La Venaria Reale – Grand Gallery, La Reggia – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Saubaud Generations, Bedrooms, La Reggia – Turin, Italy

Turin At The Turn Of The Century

There is a nice collection of maps, dioramas and other works depicting Turin at the turn of the seventeenth century. Interesting from the perspective of present day Turin and what was lacking back in the day of the House of Savoy.

La Venaria Reale – Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Piazza San Carlo, Plan Room of Castle and Turin, La Reggia – Turin, Italy

The Rooms Of Art

There is also a fine exhibit of art at the palace. Located through the entrance to the gardens, the entrance is in the back of the Palace of Diana.

La Venaria Reale – Exhibition of Art – Turin, Italy

The Stables

Juvarra Stables

The Juvarra Stables contain a collection of the royal family’s modes of transportation, from a river gondolla, to the royal coach and other broughams, all the way to childrens toy coach.

The wall is surrounded by a historical account of a trip up the River Po using the gondola from Venice to Turin.

Alfieri Stables

Today these just appear as a hallway depicting the transition from a palace in ruin to full restoration. Some of the photographs in the collection are strinking and it is well worth thoughful look and some consideration.

La Venaria Reale – Ruin and Restoration, Alfiere Stables – Turin, Italy

The Gardens

The gardens here include several, the most conspicuous one is the Flower Garden. But there is also several orchards and three distinct terraces that one can walk through and enjoy the well manicured estate.

La Venaria Reale – Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Pig Sculpture in wood, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Hercules Statue, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Hercules Statue (Front), Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Patti, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Reflecting Pool, Flower Gardens – Turin, Italy

La Venaria Reale – Gondola Pool – Turin, Italy

Church of Saint Hubert

One has to walk to the Church of Saint Hubert from within the complex near the stables, outside entry is not possible. All of the pews have been removed, only the artwork, frescoes and a high altar remain, everything else is gone.

Restaurants

Il Convito della Venaria

Just on the corners of the Piazza della Repubblica and Via Andrea Mensa is the ristorante Il Convito della Venaria. A fine place for lunch, though probably a bit pricier than some of the alternatives, though restaurants and cafes appear to get sparser and sparser as you walk back towards the train station, so word of warning. We had a simple lunch of Bruschetta and two different pasta dishes, Patti had Maccheroncino al Tochio with Eggplant, Zucchini and Olives in a red sauce and I had the Agnolottini del Plin Piemontese Style, both were delicious.

Il Convito della Venaria – Plin Piemontese – Turin, Italy

12 April, 202518 May, 2025

Ivrea, Italy – A Piedmont Weekend

If you are into hiking and enjoy a really good weekend excursion, then the Metropolitan town of Turin has something great to offer, the tiny little town of Ivrea. Known for being part of the Via Francigena^[1]The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome. and Five Lake hiking area, it is a great place to spend a few days.

Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Sign – Ivrea, Italy

Via Francigena – Hiking and Trail Guide – Ivrea, Italy

Via Francigena – Way through the city – Ivrea, Italy

Getting There

This town can be reached in just under an hour’s train ride from Porta Nuovo in Turin. The Regional Veloce (RV) runs directly from the main train station, through Porta Susa and onto Ivrea. Unfortunately, the line no longer continues to Aosta, so those who are stopping over have to use the bus service to continue their journeys.

Porta Nuovo Train Station – Main Lobby – Turin, Italy

Ivrea Train Station – Outside – Ivrea, Italy

The Hotel

We stayed at the Hotel 3T on Via Sant’Ulderico, a modern hotel that has most of the amenities. One thing I disliked about this hotel, at least during this time of year (Spring), is that the thermostat makes you believe you have control over the temperature in your room, when in fact you don’t!

3T Hotel – Castle Sabaudo, At Night – Ivrea, Italy

The Town

The town is cut in two by the Dora Baltea river, which offers a few courses for avid kayakers and seems to draw them from all over. The river here cuts right through the native diorite rock, which can be seen everywhere you look and presents a dark geologic hardness that makes it such a stable building foundation; practically everything, including the hospital, is built on it.

Dora Baltea River – Train Bridge to Aosta, closed – Ivrea, Italy

Dora Baltea River – Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy

Dora Baltea River – From Ponte Vecchio – Ivrea, Italy

Dora Baltea River – Fontana Camillo Olivetti – Ivrea, Italy

There is not much to the town itself, just the Lungodora, or walkway along the river, and one central main street where one can find most of the shops, cafes and other stores.

Dora Baltea River – Corse Re Umberto – Ivrea, Italy

Castle Saubauda

A large rectangular castle built in the fourteenth century by the Savoy family. It is only open certain times during the year and one has to reserve their guided tour ahead of time. We were only able to see the outside and sometimes at night it is lit up in different colors.

Ivrea Cathedral

Actually known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of Saint Mary, or Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, is very close to the castle on the hilltop. It is in need of restoration and there are several, apparently small projects already underway inside the cathedral.

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Entrance – Ivrea, Italy

Inside the cathedral is actually quite impressive. The nave is well decorated with ceiling frescoes and religious art. It is quite dark and reminiscent of the Sistine Chapel before that was restored and suffers from decades, if not centuries or candle and other smoke.

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and ceiling – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Aisle – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen entrance – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, bricked up window – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Nave and Organ – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Transept – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen ceiling frescoes – Ivrea, Italy

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Altar screen frescoes – Ivrea, Italy

The Crypt

The main attraction of the crypt are the frescoes. When possible the caretakers of the cathedral have installed lighting, so that you can adore without the need for using the flash on your camera, which you should never do.

Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta – Il Duomo, Crypt – Ivrea, Italy

Restaurants

Moma

Moma is actually a bar and restaurant, so you can stop their early for a drink before dinner, or wait until 7PM and dine there as well. They have a fairly good selection of food which may be considered cosmopolitan and some Piedmont dishes. Both of our dishes were very good and came with rather large portion size which is unusual of Italy.

Moma Restaurant – Norwegian Salmon with Potatoes and Eggplant – Ivrea, Italy

References[+]

References
↑1	The ancient pilgrimage route from England to Rome.

1 April, 202518 May, 2025

Lisbon, Portugal – Additional Sights

On our last couple of days in Lisbon we went across the bowl^[1]I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north. and visited the sights in and around the oldest part of the city, Alfama. Then after that we took the 15E Tram and visited Belém, the most important part of the city with respect to ports and its historical noteriety.

Alfama the Other City

This area includes the Moorish Castle of São Jorge and a number of the overlooks that the area enjoys. Of course, there is also Lisbon Cathedral, which actually looks like it might have been destroyed by the great 1755 earthquake and rebuilt afterwards, but the cathedral and area were largely spared from any damage due to that quake.

Lisbon Cathedral – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal

Perhaps contrary to popular belief, Lisbon and Porto are very busy ALL YEAR. It appears that since RyanAir has a HUB in Porto, everyone and his cousin comes to the area for at least the weekend and many for the entire week. This not doubt puts real stress on Porto, which I can not imagine during the summer when it is really hot and full of tourists.

Lisbon on the other hand is a larger city and can handle more people, however, it has the double wamy of having cruise ships dock as well. So expect the lower parts of Lisbon to be always crowded.

Some walk from the Chiado part of town, where our hotel was located, and across the promenade of R. Augusta, is a totally different part of the city, Alfama. Here you can find the Santa Apolónia train station; in fact, check any train ticket you have that travels to Porto or beyond, and you might notice that it might not be necessary to go all the way to Oriente train station, some of those trains actually start in Santa Apolónia.

Tagus River to the Ocean – Lisbon, Portugal

If you walk the area it is quite steep, so be prepared, or for those less inclined to walk and climb, take an alternate mode of transportation like the 12E Tram, a Tuk-Tuk or the bus.

Church of Our Lady of Grace

The Church of Our Lady of Grace stands on top of one of the hills on this side of the city. It has a beautiful ceiling in the nave, but the altar is rather plain and typical among other churches we have seen.

Church of our Lady of Grace – Nave – Lisbon, Portugal

Adjacent to the church is the Convent of Grace, which is temporarily being used as a modern art museum. However, it is nice just to drop in and see the fascinating Portuguese tiling that adorns the walls.

Church of our Lady of Grace – Convent – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge

The Castle of São Jorge is a large Moorish castle with a commanding view of the overall area of Lisbon. It has a surrounding wall with a central castle and a number of amenities, including a cafe and a restaurant.

Castle of São Jorge – Tagus River – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Tagus River and Bridge of the 25th of April – Lisbon, Portugal

Though you can purchase tickets at the gate, we found the entire staff appeared to be very confused and we got numerous conflicting stories as to what was available, when and where we had to queue in line. We decided to purchase our tickets online, this was actually quicker and more convienent. However, we still had to stand in a line for about an hour, and it isn’t even tourist season, so bring your patience.

Castle of São Jorge – Lisbon Overlook Area – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Points of Interest in Tile – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Old Bronze Cannon – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Interior – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Peacocks – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Entrance to Castle proper – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Interior of Castle – Lisbon, Portugal

Castle of São Jorge – Interior of Castle, Ramparts – Lisbon, Portugal

Church of Saint Vincent de Fora

The Church of Saint Vincent de Fora is actually pretty far from everything else, but still walkable. From the Church of Grace and some of the observations points, it can be easily seen in the distance, usually with the National Pantheon dome looming in the frame.

Church of St. Vincent de Fora – Dome of the National Pantheon – Lisbon, Portugal

The interior is actually quite spartan and perhaps not worth the effort. However, for a fee you can enter other portions of the grounds like the sacristy, which is known to be far more opulent than the church itself. Having been in so many churches in the past few months, we decided to save our money and continue our travels.

Saint Vincent de Fora – Exterior – Lisbon, Portugal

Saint Vincent de Fora – Nave and Interior – Lisbon, Portugal

Belém the Port City

Noted in history as the port from which Vasco da Gama departed for his adventures to India, this port town’s most noticeable attribute is it tower. But there is also the monastery, its cloister and the church, all of which represent fabulous examples of the late Gothic Portuguese Manueline style of architecture.

Jerónimos Monastery and the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem

When you exit the tram the first thing you notice is the Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem across the street. Then the Jerónimos Monastery comes into view, as an extension to these architectural marvels.

Church of Saint Mary of Bethlehem – Jerónimos Monastery – Lisbon, Portugal

Belém Tower

The Belém Tower, or more precisely, the Tower of Saint Vincent, stands just off shore and was actually a lighthouse in the past.

Restaurants

Rendez Vous

After we visited the Church of St. Vincent we stopped at a small restaurant along the way back called Rendez Vous. They have sort of an eclectic menu which probably does not appeal to everyone, but we found the food and wine very good and would commend the place to anyone looking for something a little different.

Rendez Vour Restaurant – Tuna Salad – Lisbon, Portugal

Rendez Vour Restaurant – Greek Salad, Bread and Fries with Olive Oil and Oregano – Lisbon, Portugal

References[+]

References
↑1	I note this because it is the lower flat portion of the city the rise gently to the north.

30 March, 202530 March, 2025

Sintra, Portugal – Missed Outing

With optimism in the weather and a plan for a good day, we headed to Sintra, Portugal, in the hopes of seeing the Moorish Castle or the National Palace of Pena. Unfortunately, shortly after we arrived our hopes were dashed after we learned the weather had trashed the place and everything in the park was more or less closed due to too many fallen trees, so a missed outing.

How To Get There

By metro it takes about forty-five minutes, leaving Lisbon’s Rossio metro station, a number of blocks from our hotel uphill, to Sintra station about a dozen stops away. This metro line is very busy, so be prepared.

Rossio Station – Platform – Lisbon, Portugal

The Town

Is chaotically laid out and has many narrow passageways and alleys. As with most of Portugal, you get the feeling you must always climb up or down, so be prepared for a lot of steps.

Quinta da Regaleira

The Quinta da Regaleira was another issue. Though we wanted to visit the property, it only has reservations and time slots. Aside from that, the line was so long, since everyone was looking for alternatives due to the closures, that it was quickly out of available times. So we took some photographs and turned around.

Biester Palace

Having failed to come on a day when the majority of the park was open, we settled on the Biester Palace, so that the day and trip was not a total loss.

Biester Palace – Stairs to Palace – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Front – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Back Entrance – Sintra, Portugal

Sintra_13_BiesterPalace_05

Sintra_13_BiesterPalace_06

Not technically a palace, the residence that is called Biester Palace stands prominently and views from the grounds are very nice. The grounds are quiet enough and there is a cafe where one can enjoy a hot or cold drink while enjoying the beautiful flora.

Biester Palace – Rooms – Sintra, Portugal

The house itself is decorated with wood, a majority of its finish and main rooms are adorned with something similar, if not, oak. One comes away with the house having an almost Spartan interior and the chapel appears to be the most adorned room in the house.

Biester Palace – Chapel – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Bathroom – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Scullery – Sintra, Portugal

There is an elevator, though it was never electrified and gives the appearance that it was only used when company was present, or for other civil tasks.

Biester Palace – Elevator Hand Mechanism – Sintra, Portugal

Biester Palace – Elevator – Sintra, Portugal

The Ninth Gate

One claim to fame this house has that might appeal to some, it was one of the locations where Roman Polanski shot the film The Ninth Gate. It was during Dean Corso’s travels to visit Victor Fargas that the house and fountain are involved in the movie.

Biester Palace – Ninth Gate Book Prop and Postcards – Sintra, Portugal

Restaurants

In Sintra there are plenty of restaurants and cafes, so you shouldn’t have a difficult time to find a place to eat.

Fatto da Claudio Coelho

A nice place for lunch, service Italian food and other specialties. We each shared the bruschetta and a pasta special, so something simple and somewhat light.